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Fragrance created by Lady Gaga Not to be confused with The Fame (/wiki/The_Fame) . Lady Gaga Fame Fragrance (/wiki/Perfume) by Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) Notes (/wiki/Note_(perfumery)) Atropa belladonna (/wiki/Atropa_belladonna) , incense (/wiki/Incense) , honey, saffron (/wiki/Saffron) , apricot, tiger orchid (/wiki/Tiger_orchid) Released August 1, 2012 Label Haus Laboratories (/wiki/Haus_Laboratories) in association with Coty, Inc. (/wiki/Coty,_Inc.) Tagline (/wiki/Tagline) The first ever black eau de parfum Successor Eau de Gaga (/wiki/Eau_de_Gaga) Website hauslaboratories (http://hauslaboratories.com) .com (http://hauslaboratories.com) Lady Gaga Fame is the first fragrance created by American singer Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) . A unisex fragrance, it was released in Guggenheim Museum (/wiki/Solomon_R._Guggenheim_Museum) and in Macy's (/wiki/Macy%27s) stores in the United States and a range of different stores in the United Kingdom on August 22, 2012, and worldwide in September through the singer's Haus Laboratories (/wiki/Haus_Laboratories) label in association with Coty, Inc. (/wiki/Coty,_Inc.) According to promotional materials, the perfume uses "push-pull technology", rather than the pyramidal structure traditional of perfumes, to combine notes (/wiki/Note_(perfumery)) of atropa belladonna (/wiki/Atropa_belladonna) , tiger orchid (/wiki/Tiger_orchid) , incense (/wiki/Incense) , apricot, saffron (/wiki/Saffron) , and honey. [1] (#cite_note-1) Development [ edit ] In July 2010, British magazine Marketing reported that singer Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) had begun working on an "unusual" fragrance with Coty, Inc. (/wiki/Coty,_Inc.) , set for release around Christmas (/wiki/Christmas) of that year and to be accompanied by a large advertising campaign. [2] (#cite_note-2) "I know nothing of this project," Coty Beauty vice president Steve Mormoris said at the time. "It is a totally false rumor." [3] (#cite_note-3) Months later, in September, Mormoris announced that the singer had agreed to a long-term licensing deal allowing Coty to release fragrances under her name, with the first perfume expected to be released in spring 2012. [4] (#cite_note-4) In June 2012, Coty announced in a press release that the perfume would be titled Lady Gaga Fame. [5] (#cite_note-pressrelease-5) Scent and packaging [ edit ] Reports circulated in early 2011 that Gaga wanted the perfume to smell of blood and semen. [6] (#cite_note-6) The packaging lists the perfume's notes (/wiki/Note_(perfumery)) as "tears of belladonna (/wiki/Atropa_belladonna) , crushed heart of tiger orchidea (/wiki/Tiger_Orchid) with a black veil of incense (/wiki/Incense) , pulverized apricot (/wiki/Apricot) and the combinative essences of saffron (/wiki/Saffron) and honey (/wiki/Honey) drops". [7] (#cite_note-7) According to the product packaging, instead of the pyramidal structure used in most perfumes, Lady Gaga Fame uses "push-pull technology", where the ingredients demonstrate aspects of each note without precedence. [5] (#cite_note-pressrelease-5) Rather than utilizing top, middle, and base notes, the perfume is based on three accords – "dark" (containing the Belladonna notes), "sensual" (containing the honey, saffron, and apricot notes), and "light" (containing the Tiger Orchid notes) which come together to produce a floral, fruity scent. [5] (#cite_note-pressrelease-5) The perfume references the allure of fame and fortune with its sweet scent and gold crown, a theme Gaga has often explored in her career; the inclusion of the poisonous belladonna (/wiki/Atropa_belladonna) , along with the black liquid, represent the dark or destructive effect fame can have on an individual. Gaga states on the back of the packaging that the perfume is "black, like the soul of fame". Uniquely, Fame is a black perfume that sprays clear and becomes invisible once airborne; according to the Coty (/wiki/Coty,_Inc.) press release, it is the first perfume to utilize such technology. [5] (#cite_note-pressrelease-5) The bottle, designed by Gaga and photographer Nick Knight (/wiki/Nick_Knight_(photographer)) , [5] (#cite_note-pressrelease-5) was described by Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) magazine as "simple and unfussy" and "crowned with an edgy and alien-like gold cap". [8] (#cite_note-8) Many high personalities were surprised by the perfume's sophistication when compared to other celebrity scents. Two versions of the perfume were released: a less expensive version, which includes a smaller bottle with a plastic cap, while a more expensive "premiere edition", known as Le Masterpiece, includes a larger bottle with a solid metal cap. [9] (#cite_note-9) Release and reception [ edit ] Lady Gaga Fame was released worldwide in September 2012 through Gaga's own Paris (/wiki/Paris) -based Haus Laboratories label in association with Coty. [5] (#cite_note-pressrelease-5) In the US, it was released in Macy's (/wiki/Macy%27s) stores on August 22. The advertising campaign was directed and photographed by Steven Klein (/wiki/Steven_Klein_(photographer)) , who previously directed Gaga's music video for " Alejandro (/wiki/Alejandro_(song)) ". [5] (#cite_note-pressrelease-5) The campaign has been compared to the novel Gulliver's Travels (/wiki/Gulliver%27s_Travels) . [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) On July 18, 2012, a black and white short film titled, "Formulation", by Todd Tourso, Reggie Know, Rob English, Kenneth Robin, voice and soundtrack by Jean Marc Virard "4THSEX" was released. [12] (#cite_note-12) The two-minute short features attractive male models in various laboratory clothing mixing and boiling chemicals to create the fragrance. [13] (#cite_note-13) Gaga does not appear in the visual. [14] (#cite_note-14) Gaga appeared on the September 2012 cover of Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) magazine to promote the perfume. [15] (#cite_note-15) Within six months since its release the perfume earned a total revenue of $30 million in the US. [16] (#cite_note-16) Promotional video [ edit ] On August 14, 2012, Gaga released a 30-second trailer of the Lady Gaga Fame commercial which uses her song " Scheiße (/wiki/Schei%C3%9Fe_(song)) " as background music. [17] (#cite_note-17) On August 23, 2012, a day after the official launch of the fragrance at Macy's, Lady Gaga aired a second follow-up commercial. It follows the same story line and features Gaga scratching off black ooze, representing her black eau de parfum, from the male model's face. At the end of the ad, Lady Gaga's "Gulliver pose" is transformed into a golden statue similar to the cap from Le Masterpiece. [18] (#cite_note-18) Later the same day, a third subsequent ad was premiered on TV. It features Gaga parading between two sets of male models. On one side there are partially nude men dressed in latex; on the other side are giant size male figures frontally clothed in a half-gown and nude at the side and seemingly at the back. Their faces are disguised by a plastic shield. The two "Gulliver" statues of Gaga are also featured, one with tiny men climbing all over her and the other cast in gold. The complete commercial video debuted on September 13, 2012 at the Guggenheim Museum (/wiki/Solomon_R._Guggenheim_Museum) , in New York and was released online on the same day at Littlemonsters.com. It was directed by Steven Klein. Awards and nominations [ edit ] Year Award Category Result Ref. 2013 FiFi Awards (/wiki/FiFi_Awards) Media Campaign of the Year – Women's Nominated [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) Consumer Choice – Women's Nominated FiFi Awards (UK) (/wiki/FiFi_Awards) Best New Celebrity Fragrance Runner-up [21] (#cite_note-21) [22] (#cite_note-22) Best New Female Print Advertisement Runner-up Best New Female Commercial Nominated Ultimate Launch Nominated References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Lady Gaga Sold 30 Million Bottles Of Fame Perfume, She Says" (http://www.idolator.com/7440253/lady-gaga-sells-30-million-bottles-of-fame-perfume) . Idolator. February 10, 2013. Archived (https://archive.today/20140320083946/http://www.idolator.com/7440253/lady-gaga-sells-30-million-bottles-of-fame-perfume) from the original on March 20, 2014 . Retrieved December 29, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Odell, Amy (July 13, 2010). "Lady Gaga Rumored to Be Working on a Fragrance" (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2010/07/lady_gaga_rumored_to_be_workin.html) . New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . New York Media LLC. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100716212255/http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2010/07/lady_gaga_rumored_to_be_workin.html) from the original on July 16, 2010 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Coty Denies Lady Gaga Scent Deal... Selfridges Says Sorry..." (http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/coty-denies-lady-gaga-scent-deal-selfridges-says-sorry-3182765?full=true) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . July 15, 2010. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20121021163629/http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/coty-denies-lady-gaga-scent-deal-selfridges-says-sorry-3182765?full=true) from the original on October 21, 2012 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Born, Pete (September 12, 2010). "Lady Gaga Signs Beauty Deal" (http://www.wwd.com/eye/fashion/lady-gaga-signs-beauty-deal-3258966) . Women's Wear Daily . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110815112544/http://www.wwd.com/eye/fashion/lady-gaga-signs-beauty-deal-3258966) from the original on August 15, 2011 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ a b c d e f g "Lady Gaga To Launch LADY GAGA FAME, The First Fragrance From Haus Laboratories" (http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/lady-gaga-to-launch-lady-gaga-fame-the-first-fragrance-from-haus-laboratories-159101855.html) . Coty, Inc (/wiki/Coty,_Inc.) . PR Newswire (/wiki/PR_Newswire) . June 14, 2012. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120731042815/http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/lady-gaga-to-launch-lady-gaga-fame-the-first-fragrance-from-haus-laboratories-159101855.html) from the original on July 31, 2012 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Stewart, Ella (January 27, 2011). "Lady Gaga's Perfume Inspired by Blood and Semen?" (http://www.eonline.com/news/lady_gagas_perfume_inspired_by_blood/222896) . E! (/wiki/E!) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120616105234/http://www.eonline.com/news/lady_gagas_perfume_inspired_by_blood/222896) from the original on June 16, 2012 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Vena, Jocelyn (June 14, 2012). "Lady Gaga's Fame Perfume Smells Like 'Tears Of Belladonna' (https://web.archive.org/web/20120616212338/http://www.mtv.com/news/articles/1687383/lady-gaga-fame-perfume.jhtml) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20120616212338/http://www.mtv.com/news/articles/1687383/lady-gaga-fame-perfume.jhtml) . MTV News (/wiki/MTV_News) . Archived from the original (http://www.mtv.com/news/articles/1687383/lady-gaga-fame-perfume.jhtml) on June 16, 2012 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) DelliCarpini Jr., Gregory (June 14, 2012). "Lady Gaga Reveals New Perfume Bottle" (http://www.billboard.com/articles/columns/the-hook/483207/lady-gaga-reveals-new-perfume-bottle) . Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130509171634/http://www.billboard.com/articles/columns/the-hook/483207/lady-gaga-reveals-new-perfume-bottle) from the original on May 9, 2013 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Lady Gaga Announces Le Masterpiece Premiere Edition Of New Fragrance Fame" (http://www.capitalfm.com/artists/lady-gaga/news/le-masterpiece-fame/) . Capitol (/wiki/Capital_(radio_network)) . Global Radio (/wiki/Global_Radio) . July 8, 2012. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120710223541/http://www.capitalfm.com/artists/lady-gaga/news/le-masterpiece-fame/) from the original on July 10, 2012 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Kathleen Perricone (July 17, 2012). "Lady Gaga goes nude for Fame perfume ad" (http://omg.yahoo.com/blogs/jam/lady-gaga-goes-nude-fame-perfume-ad-203105710.html) . Yahoo!. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120720023735/http://omg.yahoo.com/blogs/jam/lady-gaga-goes-nude-fame-perfume-ad-203105710.html) from the original on July 20, 2012 . Retrieved December 29, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Celebrity News | Music & TV | heat Magazine" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150716134621/http://thewhaleandtherose.com/2013/2013-canadian-fragrance-awards-and-the-winners-are/) . gb: Heatworld.com. Archived from the original (http://www.heatworld.com/Star-Style/2012/07/Look-at-the-tiny-men-crawling-over-Lady-Gaga-in-her-new-Fame-fragrance-campaign/) on July 16, 2015 . Retrieved December 29, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Lady Gaga Releases 'Formulation' Film for Fame Perfume (Video)" (http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/fash-track/lady-gaga-fortune-fame-perfume-video-351240) . The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) . July 18, 2012. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160314072830/http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/fash-track/lady-gaga-fortune-fame-perfume-video-351240) from the original on March 14, 2016 . Retrieved December 29, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Lady Gaga Unveils Fame Fragrance Black And White Short Film - Video - Lady Gaga" (http://www.capitalfm.com/artists/lady-gaga/news/fame-fragrance-video/) . Capital FM (/wiki/Capital_(radio_network)) . July 19, 2012 . Retrieved December 29, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Lady Gaga's 'Formulation' Film Teases Fame Fragrance" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150716134621/http://thewhaleandtherose.com/2013/2013-canadian-fragrance-awards-and-the-winners-are/) . MTV (/wiki/MTV) . July 18, 2012. Archived from the original (http://www.mtv.com/news/articles/1689920/lady-gaga-formulation-film-teases-fame-fragrance.jhtml) on July 16, 2015 . Retrieved December 29, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Ginsberg, Merle (June 13, 2012). "Lady Gaga to Cover Vogue's September Issue" (http://www.billboard.com/articles/columns/the-hook/483324/lady-gaga-to-cover-vogues-september-issue) . Billboard . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150716134621/http://thewhaleandtherose.com/2013/2013-canadian-fragrance-awards-and-the-winners-are/) from the original on July 16, 2015 . Retrieved July 9, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Lauren Indvik (June 24, 2016). "The State of Music Artist Perfumes in 2016: A Whiff of Despair" (http://www.billboard.com/articles/news/features/7416513/celebrity-artist-perfumes-2016) . Billboard . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161101022147/http://www.billboard.com/articles/news/features/7416513/celebrity-artist-perfumes-2016) from the original on November 1, 2016 . Retrieved December 29, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20110526051934/http://itunes.apple.com/us/album/born-this-way-bonus-track/id438731876) Born This Way (Bonus Track Version) by Lady GaGa - Download (https://web.archive.org/web/20110526051934/http://itunes.apple.com/us/album/born-this-way-bonus-track/id438731876) Born This Way (Bonus Track Version) on iTunes" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110526051934/http://itunes.apple.com/us/album/born-this-way-bonus-track/id438731876) . Archived from the original (http://itunes.apple.com/us/album/born-this-way-bonus-track/id438731876) on May 26, 2011 . Retrieved August 27, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "YouTube" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160623222147/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFXi4sSa5Kg) . Archived from the original (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFXi4sSa5Kg) on June 23, 2016 . Retrieved December 29, 2016 – via YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Redding, Marie (April 11, 2013). "The 2013 Fragrance Foundation Awards Nominees and Honoree" (https://www.beautypackaging.com/contents/view_online-exclusives/2013-04-11/the-2013-fragrance-foundation-awards-nominees/) . Beauty Packaging . Retrieved January 19, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Cardellino, Carly (April 11, 2013). "Fragrance Foundation Consumer Choice Awards" (https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/how-to/a12416/fragrance-foundation-consumer-choice-awards/) . Cosmopolitan (/wiki/Cosmopolitan_(magazine)) . Retrieved January 19, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "The Fragrance Foundation 2013 Winners" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150504013837/http://www.fifiawards2013.co.uk/2013.php) . The Fragrance Foundation (/wiki/The_Fragrance_Foundation) . Archived from the original (http://www.fifiawards2013.co.uk/2013.php) on May 4, 2015 . Retrieved May 6, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "The FiFi Awards 2013 Finalists" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130422062826/http://fifi-awards.fragrancefoundation.org.uk/fifi-awards-finalists-2013/) . The Fragrance Foundation (/wiki/The_Fragrance_Foundation) . Archived from the original (http://fifi-awards.fragrancefoundation.org.uk/fifi-awards-finalists-2013/) on April 22, 2013 . Retrieved November 14, 2019 . v t e Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) Awards and nominations (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Lady_Gaga) Discography (/wiki/Lady_Gaga_discography) Live performances (/wiki/List_of_Lady_Gaga_live_performances) Songs (/wiki/List_of_songs_recorded_by_Lady_Gaga) Videography (/wiki/Lady_Gaga_videography) Studio albums The Fame (/wiki/The_Fame) The Fame Monster (/wiki/The_Fame_Monster) Born This Way (/wiki/Born_This_Way_(album)) Artpop (/wiki/Artpop) Cheek to Cheek (/wiki/Cheek_to_Cheek_(album)) Joanne (/wiki/Joanne_(album)) Chromatica (/wiki/Chromatica) Love for Sale (/wiki/Love_for_Sale_(Tony_Bennett_and_Lady_Gaga_album)) Soundtracks A Star Is Born (/wiki/A_Star_Is_Born_(2018_soundtrack)) Top Gun: Maverick (/wiki/Top_Gun:_Maverick_(soundtrack)) Compilation albums The Remix (/wiki/The_Remix_(Lady_Gaga_album)) Born This Way: The Remix (/wiki/Born_This_Way:_The_Remix) Born This Way: The Collection (/wiki/Born_This_Way:_The_Collection) Dawn of Chromatica (/wiki/Dawn_of_Chromatica) Extended plays The Cherrytree Sessions (/wiki/The_Cherrytree_Sessions) Hitmixes (/wiki/Hitmixes) A Very Gaga Holiday (/wiki/A_Very_Gaga_Holiday) Concert tours The Fame Ball Tour (/wiki/The_Fame_Ball_Tour) Fame Kills: Starring Kanye West and Lady Gaga (/wiki/Fame_Kills:_Starring_Kanye_West_and_Lady_Gaga) (cancelled) The Monster Ball Tour (/wiki/The_Monster_Ball_Tour) Born This Way Ball (/wiki/Born_This_Way_Ball) ArtRave: The Artpop Ball (/wiki/ArtRave:_The_Artpop_Ball) Cheek to Cheek Tour (/wiki/Cheek_to_Cheek_Tour) Joanne World Tour (/wiki/Joanne_World_Tour) The Chromatica Ball (/wiki/The_Chromatica_Ball) Promotional events ArtRave (/wiki/ArtRave) Dive Bar Tour (/wiki/Dive_Bar_Tour_(Lady_Gaga)) Residencies Lady Gaga Live at Roseland Ballroom (/wiki/Lady_Gaga_Live_at_Roseland_Ballroom) Lady Gaga Enigma + Jazz & Piano (/wiki/Lady_Gaga_Enigma_%2B_Jazz_%26_Piano) Documentaries Gaga: Five Foot Two (/wiki/Gaga:_Five_Foot_Two) Television Lady Gaga Presents the Monster Ball Tour: At Madison Square Garden (/wiki/Lady_Gaga_Presents_the_Monster_Ball_Tour:_At_Madison_Square_Garden) A Very Gaga Thanksgiving (/wiki/A_Very_Gaga_Thanksgiving) Lady Gaga and the Muppets Holiday Spectacular (/wiki/Lady_Gaga_and_the_Muppets_Holiday_Spectacular) Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga: Cheek to Cheek Live! (/wiki/Tony_Bennett_and_Lady_Gaga:_Cheek_to_Cheek_Live!) Super Bowl LI halftime show (/wiki/Super_Bowl_LI_halftime_show) One Last Time: An Evening with Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga (/wiki/One_Last_Time:_An_Evening_with_Tony_Bennett_and_Lady_Gaga) Gaga Chromatica Ball (/wiki/Gaga_Chromatica_Ball) Bibliography Lady Gaga x Terry Richardson (/wiki/Lady_Gaga_x_Terry_Richardson) Fragrances and cosmetics Lady Gaga Fame Eau de Gaga (/wiki/Eau_de_Gaga) Haus Labs (/wiki/Haus_Labs) Fashion Armadillo shoe (/wiki/Armadillo_shoe) Meat dress of Lady Gaga (/wiki/Meat_dress_of_Lady_Gaga) Related articles Cynthia Germanotta (/wiki/Cynthia_Germanotta) (mother) Born This Way Foundation (/wiki/Born_This_Way_Foundation) Doll Domination Tour (/wiki/Doll_Domination_Tour) Lady Gaga: Queen of Pop (/wiki/Lady_Gaga:_Queen_of_Pop) One World: Together at Home (/wiki/Together_at_Home) " Perform This Way (/wiki/Perform_This_Way) " Theatricality (/wiki/Theatricality) TechHaus Volantis (/wiki/TechHaus_Volantis) Aleiodes gaga (/wiki/Aleiodes_gaga) Gaga (plant) (/wiki/Gaga_(plant)) Gagadon (/wiki/Gagadon) Kaikaia gaga (/wiki/Kaikaia) Category (/wiki/Category:Lady_Gaga) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐pmbwk Cached time: 20240719020535 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.430 seconds Real time usage: 0.552 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1945/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 69292/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3639/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 94985/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.281/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5856375/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 482.368 1 -total 40.56% 195.629 1 Template:Reflist 35.10% 169.297 22 Template:Cite_web 21.40% 103.224 1 Template:Lady_Gaga 20.90% 100.807 1 Template:Navbox_Musical_artist 16.98% 81.921 1 Template:Short_description 9.47% 45.700 1 Template:Infobox_fragrance 8.86% 42.722 1 Template:Infobox 8.42% 40.600 2 Template:Pagetype 4.36% 21.017 1 Template:Distinguish Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:36844333-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719020535 and revision id 1231349246. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lady_Gaga_Fame&oldid=1231349246 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lady_Gaga_Fame&oldid=1231349246) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Perfumes released by Coty, Inc. (/wiki/Category:Perfumes_released_by_Coty,_Inc.) Lady Gaga perfumes (/wiki/Category:Lady_Gaga_perfumes) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Use mdy dates from February 2019 (/wiki/Category:Use_mdy_dates_from_February_2019)
Fashion design copyright refers to the web of domestic and international laws that protect unique clothing or apparel designs. The roots of fashion design copyright may be traced in Europe to as early as the 15th century. [1] (#cite_note-salmon-1) As of 2016, in most countries (including the United States and the United Kingdom), fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) does not have the same protection as other creative works (art, film, literature, etc.), because apparel (/wiki/Apparel) (clothes, shoes, handbags, etc.) are classified as "functional items", except when copyright laws (/wiki/Copyright_law) can be applied. This explains the success of the knockoff (/wiki/Knockoff) businesses to the detriment of established labels and emerging designers, the latter ones being especially damaged, because they rely on relatively few designs. [2] (#cite_note-BoF20160314-2) History [ edit ] French king Francis I (/wiki/Francis_I_of_France) [1] (#cite_note-salmon-1) gave out specific privileges related to the production of textiles. By 1711, in Lyon, illegalities were already being defined in regards to fashion materials, and in 1787, in England and Scotland fashion designers had fruitfully pushed their needs for protection into basic legislation. In 1876 Germany began protecting fashion patterns as well as models, and in 2002 European regulation on designs that were new and provided an aspect of fresh character or aesthetic were brought under protection. [3] (#cite_note-3) From 2004 to 2006 the "total production volume for clothing decreased by about 5% each year... [and by] 2006 the European union trade deficit for clothing was at 33.7 billion." [4] (#cite_note-4) These statistics show that while there are benefits of their advanced design legislation, the economic and external factors still hindered their industry growth in ways the U.S. can empathize with. As 2007 came to a close, WIPO, or the World Intellectual Property Organization (/wiki/World_Intellectual_Property_Organization) , had registered twenty-nine international designs. [5] (#cite_note-5) Current regulation [ edit ] The protection of fashion design varies greatly from one country to the other. [2] (#cite_note-BoF20160314-2) European Union [ edit ] Unlike in the USA, when the laws regarding the clothing industry were created in Europe, the continent had a booming fashion industry that already started to reshape the clothing manufacturing industry. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) In the European Union (/wiki/European_Union) , the Creative Designs Directive and the European Designs Directive are in effect to protect new designs for three or five years. [2] (#cite_note-BoF20160314-2) The European Union Intellectual Property Office (/wiki/European_Union_Intellectual_Property_Office) are responsible for managing intellectual property in the EU. [7] (#cite_note-7) United States [ edit ] Main article: Fashion design copyright in the United States (/wiki/Fashion_design_copyright_in_the_United_States) The US laws written in 1976 identify fashion as a manufacturing industry rather than a creative one, because fashion design had not reshaped the clothing manufacturing industry yet. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) The Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA) of 1998 originally brought more limits to fashion design copyrighting, but a sui generis protection to the design of vessel hulls (DMCA-Title V: Vessel Hull Design Protection Act or VHDPA) was included to give more protection to some useful articles. The House of Representatives deemed fit to enable tighter fashion design copyrights through an extension of the VHDPA. [8] (#cite_note-8) There is no official design rights system, so brands and companies have to use design patents (a technical component of the design) and trademarks (names, slogans, logos) to "copyright" their products. Another option for highly-recognizable fashion designs is to register it as a trade dress with the United States Patent and Trademark Office (/wiki/United_States_Patent_and_Trademark_Office) (ex Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) and the Birkin bag (/wiki/Birkin_bag) ). [2] (#cite_note-BoF20160314-2) [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) In the 2017 Supreme Court case. Star Athletica, LLC v. Varsity Brands, Inc. (/wiki/Star_Athletica,_LLC_v._Varsity_Brands,_Inc.) , it was ruled that Fashion design can be covered by copyright. ...an artistic feature of the design of a useful article is eligible for copyright protection if the feature (1) can be perceived as a two- or three-dimensional work of art separate from the useful article and (2) would qualify as a protectable pictorial, graphic, or sculptural work either on its own or in some other medium if imagined separately from the useful article. [9] (#cite_note-slipop11-9) This decision enhanced the protection of unique fashion works, which are often knocked off by fast-fashion retailers who turn the vast grey area of fashion copyrights into a profit. [10] (#cite_note-:1-10) Infringement cases [ edit ] From 2009 to 2018, Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) and Guess (/wiki/Guess_(company)) were in a copyrights feud over the use of a logo: Courts in the USA, China and Australia had ruled in favor of Gucci, while courts in France and Italy had ruled in favor of Guess. [11] (#cite_note-:0-11) In 2010, Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) destroyed all its products containing the Hells Angels (/wiki/Hells_Angels) ' trademarked winged death heads symbol after the motorcycle club threatened to sue. [11] (#cite_note-:0-11) In the 2012 case of Yves Saint Laurent v. Christian Louboutin , a court ruled that a brand could reuse Louboutin (/wiki/Christian_Louboutin) 's signature red on shoes as long as the whole shoe is covered in red, because having only the soles in red was indeed a copyright violation. [11] (#cite_note-:0-11) In the UK, in the 2023 case of Adidas v. Thom Browne , a court ruled that Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) ' 3-stripe signature could be used by other brands. [11] (#cite_note-:0-11) Societal impact [ edit ] Researcher Johanna Blakley argues that the very lack of regulation of fashion design has allowed the fashion industry to do very well economically and has led to the birth of fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) and a much faster changing of fashion trends (/wiki/Fashion_trend) and has enabled pieces of clothing to become pieces of art. She also refers to Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) pointing out that the people who buy cheap lookalikes are a different demographic compared with people who buy the original very high-end products and that while many exclusive designers get copied, also the high end designers often attribute the inspiration of their creations to following street fashion, so the copying is a two-way street. [12] (#cite_note-12) Digital fashion copyrights [ edit ] When a garment is replicated digitally, the copyrights holder of the physical garment does not necessarily remain the copyrights holder of the digital garment. For example, if a design agency does 3D applications for a fashion company, those 3D animations belong to the agency. Licence agreements are essential if several agencies are involved. Facing digitization, the fashion industry may go through the same disruption the music and film industries went through. [13] (#cite_note-13) The Hermès v. MetaBirkins case, the copyrights holder of the Birkin bag (/wiki/Birkin_bag) , the Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) group, filed a lawsuit against the company MetaBirkins which had created an almost identical NFT (/wiki/Non-fungible_token) bag sold $450 apiece. It was ruled in 2023 that NFTs were not protected by the First Amendment and had to respect copyrighted fashion designs. [11] (#cite_note-:0-11) See also [ edit ] Design patent (/wiki/Design_patent) References [ edit ] ^ a b Salmon, J.H.M. "Francis I (France)." Encyclopedia. Issues & Controversies. Facts On File News Services, n.d. Web. 4 Mar. 2013 ^ a b c d "What are the consequences of copycats?" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/what-is-the-real-cost-of-copycats/fashions-copycat-economy) , by Helena Pike, March 14, 2016, Business of Fashion ^ (#cite_ref-3) (Fischer Par. 8) ^ (#cite_ref-4) (Fischer Par. 2) ^ (#cite_ref-5) Fischer, Fridolin. "Design Law in the European Fashion Sector" WIPO February 2008. Web. 10 Feb 2013 ^ a b c Lieber, Chavie (2018-04-27). "Fashion brands steal design ideas all the time. And it's completely legal" (https://www.vox.com/2018/4/27/17281022/fashion-brands-knockoffs-copyright-stolen-designs-old-navy-zara-h-and-m) . Vox . Retrieved 2023-12-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "The European Union Intellectual Property Office - About Us" (https://www.euipo.europa.eu/en/the-office/about-us) . euipo.europa.eu . The European Union Intellectual Property Office . Retrieved 26 March 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "U.S. Copyright Office - Protection for Fashion Design" (https://www.copyright.gov/docs/regstat072706.html) . www.copyright.gov . Retrieved 2023-12-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-slipop11_9-0) Star Athletica , slip op. at 11. ^ (#cite_ref-:1_10-0) "Designs – protecting fashion in the United States with IP rights" (https://www.worldtrademarkreview.com/global-guide/designs/2020/article/designs-protecting-fashion-in-the-united-states-ip-rights-dagg2020) . www.worldtrademarkreview.com . Retrieved 2023-12-16 . ^ a b c d e "8 Fashion Lawsuits to Remember — Fashion Lawsuits Dior John Galliano Guess Gucci" (https://www.lofficielusa.com/politics-culture/fashion-lawsuits-gucci-guess) . L'Officiel USA . Retrieved 2023-12-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion's free culture (https://www.ted.com/talks/johanna_blakley_lessons_from_fashion_s_free_culture) TED Talk, 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-13) Roberts-Islam, Brooke. "Digital Fashion: Who Really Owns The IP Rights?" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2020/11/03/digital-fashion-who-really-owns-the-ip-rights/) . Forbes . Retrieved 2023-12-16 . External links [ edit ] How Is Fashion Protected by Copyright Law? (https://copyrightalliance.org/is-fashion-protected-by-copyright-law/) , Copyrightalliance.org Fashion Design and Copyright in the US and EU (https://www.wipo.int/edocs/mdocs/mdocs/en/wipo_ipr_ge_15/wipo_ipr_ge_15_t2.pdf) , Wipo.int v t e Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) articles Index of fashion articles (/wiki/Index_of_fashion_articles) General Environmental impact of fashion (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion accessory (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) Fashion design copyright Fashion matrix (/wiki/Fashion_matrix) Fashion museum (/wiki/Fashion_museum) Fashion plate (/wiki/Fashion_plate) Fashion tourism (/wiki/Fashion_tourism) Semiotics of fashion (/wiki/Semiotics_of_fashion) History (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) History of clothing and textiles (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) History of Western fashion (/wiki/History_of_Western_fashion) History of fashion design (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) Timeline of clothing and textiles technology (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) 19th century (/wiki/19th_century_in_fashion) 21st century (/wiki/21st_century_in_fashion) Events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) Fashion week (/wiki/Fashion_week) Industry (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Awards (/wiki/Category:Fashion_awards) Clothing industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Designer clothing (/wiki/Designer_clothing) Digital fashion (/wiki/Digital_fashion) Fashion blog (/wiki/Fashion_blog) Fashion capital (/wiki/Fashion_capital) Fashion entrepreneur (/wiki/Fashion_entrepreneur) Fashion editor (/wiki/Fashion_editor) Fashion forecasting (/wiki/Fashion_forecasting) Fashion illustration (/wiki/Fashion_illustration) Fashion influencer (/wiki/Fashion_influencer) Fashion journalism (/wiki/Fashion_journalism) Fashion law (/wiki/Fashion_law) Fashion photography (/wiki/Fashion_photography) Fashion merchandising (/wiki/Fashion_merchandising) Fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) in China (/wiki/Fast_fashion_in_China) Red carpet fashion (/wiki/Red_carpet_fashion) Social media in the fashion industry (/wiki/Social_media_in_the_fashion_industry) Sweatshop (/wiki/Sweatshop) Trickle-up fashion (/wiki/Trickle-up_fashion) Traditional clothing Ceremonial (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) Court (/wiki/Court_dress) Diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) Full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) Combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Suit (/wiki/Suit) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) Christian (/wiki/Christian_clothing) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_religious_clothing) Islamic (/wiki/Islamic_fashion) Modest fashion (/wiki/Modest_fashion) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) British country clothing (/wiki/British_country_clothing) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Chic (/wiki/Chic) Cruise collection (/wiki/Cruise_collection) Preppy (/wiki/Preppy) Ivy League (/wiki/Ivy_League_(clothes)) Mod (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) Sloane Ranger (/wiki/Sloane_Ranger) Teddy Boys (/wiki/Teddy_Boys) Young fogey (/wiki/Young_fogey) Street fashion (/wiki/Street_fashion) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) Hippie (/wiki/Hippie#Art_and_fashion) Hipster (/wiki/Hipster_(contemporary_subculture)) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Gorpcore (/wiki/Gorpcore) Sportswear fashion (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) Surfwear (/wiki/Surfwear) Ghetto fabulous (/wiki/Ghetto_fabulous) Bling-bling (/wiki/Bling-bling) Vintage fashion (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) Alternative (/wiki/Alternative_fashion) Androgyny (/wiki/Androgyny_in_fashion) Bohemian (/wiki/Bohemian_style) Emo (/wiki/Emo) Fetish (/wiki/Fetish_fashion) Gothic (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) Lolita (/wiki/Lolita_fashion) Queer (/wiki/Queer_fashion) Skinhead (/wiki/Skinhead) Steampunk (/wiki/Steampunk_fashion) Thrift store chic (/wiki/Thrift_store_chic) Rocker (/wiki/Rocker_(subculture)) Greaser (/wiki/Greaser_(subculture)) Glam (/wiki/Glam_rock) Grunge (/wiki/Grunge_fashion) Heavy metal (/wiki/Heavy_metal_fashion) Punk (/wiki/Punk_fashion) Skate (/wiki/Skate_punk) Rockabilly (/wiki/Rockabilly) By country American fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_United_States) Canadian fashion (/wiki/Canadian_fashion) Chinese fashion (/wiki/Chinese_fashion) Filipino fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Philippines) French fashion (/wiki/French_fashion) German fashion (/wiki/German_fashion) Indian fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_India) Iranian fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_Iran) Israeli fashion (/wiki/Israeli_fashion) Italian fashion (/wiki/Italian_fashion) History (/wiki/History_of_Italian_fashion) Japanese fashion (/wiki/Japanese_street_fashion) Nigerian fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_Nigeria) Russian fashion (/wiki/Russian_fashion) South Korean fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_South_Korea) Swedish fashion (/wiki/Swedish_fashion) Thai fashion (/wiki/History_of_Thai_clothing) Vietnamese clothing (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) Fashion activism (/wiki/Fashion_activism) Anti-fashion (/wiki/Anti-fashion) Anti-sweatshop movement (/wiki/Anti-sweatshop_movement) Circular fashion (/wiki/Circular_fashion) Sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) Slow fashion (/wiki/Slow_fashion) Trashion (/wiki/Trashion) Zero-waste fashion (/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion) See also Ballet and fashion (/wiki/Ballet_and_fashion) Capsule wardrobe (/wiki/Capsule_wardrobe) Chinoiserie in fashion (/wiki/Chinoiserie_in_fashion) Dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Music and fashion (/wiki/Music_and_fashion) Fashion victim (/wiki/Fashion_victim) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐j8r7l Cached time: 20240712185309 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.278 seconds Real time usage: 0.361 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 729/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 42088/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 604/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 35463/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.175/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3627677/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 289.893 1 -total 43.70% 126.693 1 Template:Reflist 38.63% 111.975 3 Template:Navbox 38.41% 111.355 1 Template:Fashion 37.26% 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An epitoge is a garment worn over the left shoulder that sometimes forms part of academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) or court dress (/wiki/Court_dress) . Background [ edit ] The epitoge is descended from the chaperon (/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear)) , a mediaeval hat that descended from a cloak with a hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) with the head tucked into the opening of the cowl (/wiki/Cowl) , so that the long tail or liripipe (/wiki/Liripipe) and the abbreviated cape (/wiki/Cape) hung at opposite sides of the head (wearer's right and wearer's left respectively). Over time, the cape portion was reduced to a small pleated flap and the cowl was curled up into a roundel (/wiki/Roundel) , and it then became the practice to wear the garment over the left shoulder rather than on the head, with the narrow liripipe in front and the wider cape behind. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEGroves201116–17-1) The garment is commonly used in French universities, where bands of ermine trimming are used to indicate the degree (one band for a bachelor, two for a master, and three for a doctor). In the United Kingdom and Ireland, the garment is more commonly used to indicate diplomas rather than degrees; the Irish variant of the epitoge omits the roundel and has a plain cape rather than pleated. Versions of epitoge are also used by some orders of chivalry and on barristers' gowns in some legal systems. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEGroves201116–17-1) Gallery [ edit ] Examples of epitoges A black AKC (/wiki/Associate_of_King%27s_College) epitoge on the left shoulder with gold lion embroidery, accompanying the academic dress (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_King%27s_College_London) of King's College London (/wiki/King%27s_College_London) A Swiss barrister wearing an epitoge (in this case, both the liripipe (/wiki/Liripipe) and the cape are hanging behind the shoulder) See also [ edit ] Academic dress (/wiki/Academic_dress) Graduation ceremony (/wiki/Graduation_ceremony) References [ edit ] ^ a b Groves 2011 (#CITEREFGroves2011) , pp. 16–17. Bibliography [ edit ] Groves, Nicholas, ed. (2011). Shaw's Academical Dress of Great Britain and Ireland (3rd ed.). Oxford: The Burgon Society. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-95612723-5 . v t e Academic dress (/wiki/Academic_dress) Components Terminology Groves classification system (/wiki/Groves_classification_system) Headwear Bishop Andrewes cap (/wiki/Bishop_Andrewes_cap) Biretta (/wiki/Biretta#Academic_biretta) Canterbury cap (/wiki/Canterbury_cap) Couleur (/wiki/Couleur) Doctoral hat (/wiki/Doctoral_hat) Faluche (/wiki/Faluche) Square academic cap (/wiki/Square_academic_cap) Student cap (/wiki/Student_cap) Tudor bonnet (/wiki/Tudor_bonnet) Hoods Cowl (/wiki/Cowl) Epitoge Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Liripipe (/wiki/Liripipe) Stole (/wiki/Academic_stole) Tippet (/wiki/Tippet) Gowns Cope (/wiki/Cope) Gown (/wiki/Gown) Khrui (/wiki/Khrui) Miscellaneous Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Doctoral ring (/wiki/Doctoral_ring) Sub fusc (/wiki/Sub_fusc#Subfusc) People Cecil Beaton (/wiki/Cecil_Beaton) John Burgon (/wiki/John_Burgon) Charles Franklyn (/wiki/Charles_Franklyn) Norman Hargreaves-Mawdsley (/wiki/Norman_Hargreaves-Mawdsley) George Shaw (/wiki/George_Shaw_(academic_dress_scholar)) Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) By country Australia Melbourne (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_University_of_Melbourne) Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_Royal_Melbourne_Institute_of_Technology) Tasmania (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Tasmania) Canada McGill (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_McGill_University) Ireland Dublin (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Dublin) National (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_National_University_of_Ireland) Philippines Santo Tomas (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Santo_Tomas) Thailand Chulalongkorn (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_Chulalongkorn_University) United Kingdom (/wiki/Academic_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) England and Wales Bristol (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Bristol) Cambridge (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Cambridge) Durham (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_Durham_University) Exeter (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Exeter) Imperial (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_Imperial_College_London) Kent (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Kent) Leeds (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Leeds) Liverpool John Moores (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_Liverpool_John_Moores_University) London (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_London) King's (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_King%27s_College_London) Manchester (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Manchester) Nottingham (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Nottingham) Oxford (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Oxford) Wales (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Wales) Warwick (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Warwick) Scotland Edinburgh (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Edinburgh) Glasgow (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_Glasgow) Robert Gordon (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_Robert_Gordon_University) St Andrews (/wiki/Academic_dress_of_the_University_of_St_Andrews) Undergraduate gowns (/wiki/Undergraduate_gowns_in_Scotland) United States (/wiki/Academic_dress_in_the_United_States) Columbia (/wiki/Academic_regalia_of_Columbia_University) Harvard (/wiki/Academic_regalia_of_Harvard_University) Stanford (/wiki/Academic_regalia_of_Stanford_University) Other countries China (/wiki/Chinese_academic_dress) France (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robe_universitaire_en_France) Spain (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indumentaria_universitaria_en_Espa%C3%B1a) See also The Burgon Society (/wiki/Burgon_Society) Academic scarves (/wiki/Academic_scarf) Honor cords (/wiki/Honor_cords) Legal dress (/wiki/Legal_dress) Praxe (/wiki/Praxe) Category (/wiki/Category:Academic_dress) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐57bf8779db‐vphgw Cached time: 20240717192523 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.263 seconds Real time usage: 0.330 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 581/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 43884/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 376/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 16107/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.188/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4410778/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 292.692 1 -total 35.43% 103.713 4 Template:Navbox 34.29% 100.372 1 Template:Academic_dress 27.49% 80.466 1 Template:Cite_book 12.21% 35.741 2 Template:Sfn 11.74% 34.367 1 Template:Gallery 10.04% 29.386 1 Template:Use_mdy_dates 4.01% 11.744 1 Template:Reflist 3.79% 11.085 1 Template:DMCA 2.98% 8.709 1 Template:Icon Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:47069702-0!canonical and timestamp 20240717192523 and revision id 1179084412. 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Thai beauty , also known as T-Beauty, is a marketing (/wiki/Marketing) term that can either refer to beauty products (/wiki/Beauty_products) and routines associated with Thailand (/wiki/Thailand) . [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) History [ edit ] The Thai beauty market retracted during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) but recovered soon afterwards. [4] (#cite_note-4) The Thai makeup style became a trend in Asia in the early 2020s. [5] (#cite_note-5) [ better source needed ] In 2024 the Thai beauty market was worth $6.6 billion. [6] (#cite_note-6) See also [ edit ] C-Beauty (/wiki/C-Beauty) K-Beauty (/wiki/K-Beauty) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Could T-Beauty Be the Next K-Beauty?" (https://matadornetwork.com/read/t-beauty-next-k-beauty/) . Matador Network . Retrieved 2023-07-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) cosmeticsdesign.com (2022-06-09). "Thai Trade Center director's thoughts on Thai cosmetics in US market" (https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2022/06/09/thai-beauty-in-the-us-market) . cosmeticsdesign.com . Retrieved 2023-07-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "in-cosmetics Asia reveals content details" (https://www.exhibitionworld.co.uk/in-cosmetics-asia-reveals-content-details) . Exhibition World . Retrieved 2023-07-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) JITPLEECHEEP, PITSINEE. "L'Oréal unit expects beauty market to grow by 10- 20%" (https://www.bangkokpost.com/business/general/2557194) . bangkokpost.com . Bangkok Post . Retrieved 24 August 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Corp, Perfect. "2022 Makeup Trend: Thai Makeup vs Western Makeup | PERFECT" (https://www.perfectcorp.com/consumer/blog/makeup/thai-makeup-trend) . www.perfectcorp.com . Retrieved 2023-07-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Suen, Zoe. "Inside Thailand's Booming Beauty Sector" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-markets/inside-thailands-booming-beauty-sector/) . businessoffashion.com . Business of Fashion . Retrieved 21 July 2024 . NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐dc899b7cc‐rbln4 Cached time: 20240721011814 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.182 seconds Real time usage: 0.235 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 443/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 10447/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 406/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 22272/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.112/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4382763/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 211.168 1 -total 66.34% 140.089 1 Template:Reflist 56.66% 119.653 6 Template:Cite_web 33.28% 70.270 1 Template:Better_source 24.19% 51.092 1 Template:Fix 16.38% 34.583 1 Template:Category_handler 3.06% 6.458 1 Template:Delink 1.27% 2.687 1 Template:Fix/category 1.06% 2.244 1 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:74483618-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721011814 and revision id 1235749557. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Draft:Thai_beauty&oldid=1235749557 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Draft:Thai_beauty&oldid=1235749557) "
Women's pants with very full legs A model wearing palazzo-leg pants Palazzo pants ( British English (/wiki/British_English_language) : palazzo trousers , Indian English (/wiki/Indian_English) : pantada ) are long unisex pants cut with a loose, extremely wide leg that flares out from the waist. Palazzo pants are popular as a summer season style, as they are loose and tend to be flattering in light, flowing fabrics that are breathable in hot weather. Silk crepe/crape (/wiki/Crape) , jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(fabric)) , [1] (#cite_note-Neologisms-1) and other natural fibre textiles are popular fabrics for this design. Palazzo pants are less frequently seen during the winter months, but they may be found in wool or heavy synthetic fabrics as well. History [ edit ] Palazzo pants for women first became a popular trend in the late 1960s and early 1970s. [1] (#cite_note-Neologisms-1) The style was reminiscent of the wide-legged cuffed pants worn by some women fond of avant-garde fashions in the 1930s and 1940s, particularly actresses such as Katharine Hepburn (/wiki/Katharine_Hepburn) , Greta Garbo (/wiki/Greta_Garbo) and Marlene Dietrich (/wiki/Marlene_Dietrich) . [2] (#cite_note-2) During the 1960s, some upscale restaurants resisted modern fashion trends by refusing to admit women wearing pants, which were considered inappropriate by some proprietors. [3] (#cite_note-3) This posed a problem for women who did not want to wear the skirt styles that were then in fashion. Some women opted to circumvent restaurant bans on women in pants by wearing palazzo pants or culottes (/wiki/Culottes) as evening wear. [4] (#cite_note-4) Palazzo pants flare out evenly from the waist to the ankle, and are therefore different from bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) , which are snug until they flare out from the knee. [5] (#cite_note-dervis-5) Palazzo pants are also not to be confused with Gaucho trousers , which only extend down to mid-calf length. Harem pants (/wiki/Harem_pants) are yet another loose style, but they have a snug cuff around the ankles. [6] (#cite_note-inthe-6) References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Palazzo pants (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Palazzo_pants) . ^ Jump up to: a b Algeo, John (1993). Fifty Years among the New Words: A Dictionary of Neologisms 1941-1991 . Cambridge University Press. p. 173. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-521-44971-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) LoAlbo, Stacy (2009). Vintage Fashion Accessories . Krause Publications. p. 13. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4402-0251-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Smith, Nancy (2003). Classic Ten . Penguin Books. pp. 35 (https://archive.org/details/classictentruest00macd/page/35) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-14-200356-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Heinemann, Barbara Perso (2008). Fashioning an artful life: One woman's life history in clothes (UMI Number: 3295487). Ann Arbor: ProQuest Information and Learning Company. p. 166. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-549-40505-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-dervis_5-0) Dervis, "Bell Bottom Blues." (https://web.archive.org/web/20060409134729/http://www.madetomeasuremag.com/features/pre2003/953843329.html) Made to Measure Magazine (Mar. 23, 2000). ^ (#cite_ref-inthe_6-0) "Clothes of the Eighties, Harem Pants" (http://www.inthe80s.com/clothes/harempants0.shtml) . inthe80s.com . Retrieved 6 December 2011 . v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck gaiter (/wiki/Neck_gaiter) Necktie (/wiki/Necktie) ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) bolo (/wiki/Bolo_tie) bow (/wiki/Bow_tie) kipper 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Palazzo_pants&oldid=1146257391 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Palazzo_pants&oldid=1146257391) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1960s fashion (/wiki/Category:1960s_fashion) Trousers and shorts (/wiki/Category:Trousers_and_shorts) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles containing explicitly cited British English-language text (/wiki/Category:Articles_containing_explicitly_cited_British_English-language_text) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata)
British journalist and author Georgina Howell Born 8 May 1942 Died 21 January 2016 Alma mater London School of Secretaries [1] (#cite_note-Crookston-1) [2] (#cite_note-Ironside-2) Occupation(s) author and fashion journalist Georgina Howell (8 May 1942 – 21 January 2016) was a British journalist and author who began in fashion journalism, but broadened her subject range as her career progressed. [1] (#cite_note-Crookston-1) Early life [ edit ] Howell was born in Kimberley, South Africa (/wiki/Kimberley,_Northern_Cape) on 8 May 1942. [1] (#cite_note-Crookston-1) An only child, she was the daughter of Gwen ( née Darrington) and William "Bill" Howell; her father was a Royal Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Air_Force) (RAF) flying instructor (/wiki/Flight_instructor) . In 1944, her father returned to London [1] (#cite_note-Crookston-1) (Howell and her mother followed in a convoy in dangerous circumstances) as he had been assigned to work with Bomber Command (/wiki/Bomber_Command_RAF) ; the family lived in other parts of Britain (/wiki/Britain_(place_name)) and Penang (/wiki/Penang) (now in Malaysia) for periods. [3] (#cite_note-Timesobit-3) Following several unsatisfactory convent schools (Howell was, in fact, raised as a Protestant), she attended Miss Ironside’s School (/wiki/Miss_Ironside%27s_School) , a " dame (/wiki/Dame_school) " school in Kensington (/wiki/Kensington) (run by the great aunt of journalist Virginia Ironside (/wiki/Virginia_Ironside) ). [2] (#cite_note-Ironside-2) When she was aged 14, her father died from a heart attack following a plane accident. [1] (#cite_note-Crookston-1) [3] (#cite_note-Timesobit-3) [4] (#cite_note-Telegraphobit-4) Career [ edit ] Persuaded by her mother, Howell entered Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(British_magazine)) ' s Young Talent contest in 1960. She won, ensuing she gained a job at Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) ( Vogue ' s parent company), assisting Peter Coats, garden editor of House and Garden (/wiki/House_%26_Garden_(magazine)) . [3] (#cite_note-Timesobit-3) She was soon switched to the Vogue copy department at the suggestion of Bea Miller (/wiki/Beatrix_Miller) coming up with slogans for captions such as "Vogue Patterns: Cottoning on to Summer". [2] (#cite_note-Ironside-2) She also coined the maxim "Buy nothing until you buy Vogue ", which is still used for promoting Vogue . [4] (#cite_note-Telegraphobit-4) Miller promoted her to features editor. [1] (#cite_note-Crookston-1) At the age of 24, she was appointed as the fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designers) of The Observer (/wiki/The_Observer) . Soon she became a featured editor and interviewer for different American and British magazines. She assisted in styling the photo sessions of David Bailey (/wiki/David_Bailey) , Norman Parkinson (/wiki/Norman_Parkinson) , and the Earl of Snowdon (/wiki/Antony_Armstrong-Jones,_1st_Earl_of_Snowdon) , sometimes standing in for Jean Shrimpton (/wiki/Jean_Shrimpton) when she had rowed with Bailey. [2] (#cite_note-Ironside-2) Howell was commissioned by Bea Miller to assemble the book Vogue: Six Decades of Fashion which was first published in 1975 (new edition In Vogue: 75 Years of Style , 1991). [1] (#cite_note-Crookston-1) In order to assemble the book, Howell organised Vogue ' s then disorganised library and created the archive which remains in use. [4] (#cite_note-Telegraphobit-4) In 1979, on the eve of the publication of Joan Didion (/wiki/Joan_Didion) 's essay collection The White Album (/wiki/The_White_Album_(book)) , British Vogue sent her to the United States to interview Didion. [5] (#cite_note-5) After Tina Brown (/wiki/Tina_Brown) became the editor of The Tatler (/wiki/The_Tatler) (in 1979), Brown appointed Howell as her deputy. [3] (#cite_note-Timesobit-3) As a magazine profile writer for American Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) , The Sunday Times Magazine (/wiki/The_Sunday_Times_Magazine) and The Mail on Sunday (/wiki/The_Mail_on_Sunday) , [3] (#cite_note-Timesobit-3) Howell wrote about film stars (/wiki/Film_Star) , rock bands (/wiki/Rock_bands) , and the members of the Royal family (/wiki/Royal_family) . [4] (#cite_note-Telegraphobit-4) Among others, Howell interviewed Bianca Jagger (/wiki/Bianca_Jagger) ; U2 (/wiki/U2) ; Diana, Princess of Wales (/wiki/Diana,_Princess_of_Wales) ; Anne, Princess Royal (/wiki/Anne,_Princess_Royal) ; Ronald Reagan (/wiki/Ronald_Reagan) ; Clint Eastwood (/wiki/Clint_Eastwood) ; Bruce Oldfield (/wiki/Bruce_Oldfield) ; Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) ; Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) ; Guns N' Roses (/wiki/Guns_N%27_Roses) ; Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_SpA) ; James Galway (/wiki/James_Galway) ; Frederick Ashton (/wiki/Frederick_Ashton) ; Sylvie Guillem (/wiki/Sylvie_Guillem) ; and Alec Guinness (/wiki/Alec_Guinness) . She became a friend of Elizabeth Taylor (/wiki/Elizabeth_Taylor) after bringing her a kilo of sausages (/wiki/Sausage) from England (/wiki/England) . [2] (#cite_note-Ironside-2) Howell's biography (/wiki/Biography) of Gertrude Bell (/wiki/Gertrude_Bell) , entitled Queen of the Desert was first published in 2007 (originally Daughter of the Desert in the UK (/wiki/UK) ). [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) In 2015 the book was turned to a film (/wiki/Queen_of_the_Desert_(film)) directed by Werner Herzog (/wiki/Werner_Herzog) and starring Nicole Kidman (/wiki/Nicole_Kidman) . [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) She received the Y11 Academic Major Prize in 1975. [ citation needed ] Private life [ edit ] In 1963, Howell married Michael Buhler, an artist. She divorced her husband in 1978 gaining custody of their son, Tom (born 1967). He has worked for the marketing department of Yale University Press (/wiki/Yale_University_Press) . [3] (#cite_note-Timesobit-3) In 1990, she married Christopher Bailey, a former bursar of the Royal Agricultural College (/wiki/Royal_Agricultural_College) , whom she met while researching a piece on the college for The Sunday Times (/wiki/The_Sunday_Times) . The couple bought a 1,000 year old manor in Brittany (/wiki/Brittany) , near St. Malo (/wiki/Saint-Malo) , which they restored. [3] (#cite_note-Timesobit-3) Howell died in Brittany at the age of 73, on 21 January 2016, after suffering from cancer for four years. [1] (#cite_note-Crookston-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Crookston, Peter (28 January 2016). "Georgina Howell obituary" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/jan/28/georgina-howell) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Ironside, Virginia (28 January 2016). "Georgina Howell: Journalist who interviewed the famous" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/georgina-howell-journalist-who-interviewed-the-famous-and-whose-book-on-gertrude-bell-was-made-into-a6835421.html) . The Independent . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g "Georgina Howell" (https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/georgina-howell-0h9n88z2v7w) . The Times . 27 January 2016. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0140-0460 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0140-0460) . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . (subscription required) ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Georgina Howell, journalist - obituary" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/12140450/Georgina-Howell-journalist-obituary.html) . The Daily Telegraph . 7 February 2016. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0307-1235 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0307-1235) . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "From The Archive: Joan Didion On Feminism, Vogue, And California" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/joan-didion-interview-vogue-september-1979) . Vogue . UK . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Can Werner Herzog's Gertrude Bell biopic Queen of the Desert do justice to its incredible subject?" (https://www.thenational.ae/arts-culture/can-werner-herzog-s-gertrude-bell-biopic-queen-of-the-desert-do-justice-to-its-incredible-subject-1.6047) . The National . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Read an Excerpt from the Diary of Gertrude Bell, Queen of the Desert" (http://flavorwire.com/532893/read-an-excerpt-from-the-diary-of-gertrude-bell-queen-of-the-desert) . Flavorwire . 14 August 2015 . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Five Best" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748703700904575391291019793482) . Wall Street Journal . 31 July 2010. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0099-9660 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0099-9660) . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Ferri, Jessica (13 September 2015). "Gertrude of Arabia: The 'Queen of the Desert' Who Dreamed Up Iraq" (https://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2015/09/13/gertrude-of-arabia-the-queen-of-the-desert-who-dreamed-up-iraq) . The Daily Beast . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Individual stories have the power to break down mainstream ignorance" (https://www.thenational.ae/opinion/individual-stories-have-the-power-to-break-down-mainstream-ignorance-1.638315) . The National . Retrieved 6 January 2018 . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Georgina_Howell&oldid=1097578291 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Georgina_Howell&oldid=1097578291) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1942 births (/wiki/Category:1942_births) 2016 deaths (/wiki/Category:2016_deaths) British women journalists (/wiki/Category:British_women_journalists) British fashion journalists (/wiki/Category:British_fashion_journalists) Hidden categories: Pages containing links to subscription-only content (/wiki/Category:Pages_containing_links_to_subscription-only_content) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles with hCards (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hCards) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from April 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_April_2019) Articles with ISNI identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_ISNI_identifiers) Articles with VIAF identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_VIAF_identifiers) Articles with WorldCat Entities identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_WorldCat_Entities_identifiers) Articles with GND identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_GND_identifiers) Articles with J9U identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_J9U_identifiers) Articles with KBR identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_KBR_identifiers) Articles with LCCN identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_LCCN_identifiers) Articles with NDL identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_NDL_identifiers) Articles with NLA identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_NLA_identifiers) Articles with NTA identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_NTA_identifiers) Articles with PLWABN identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_PLWABN_identifiers) Articles with SUDOC identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_SUDOC_identifiers)
Coin of Ardashir I (/wiki/Ardashir_I) The Korymbos ( Greek (/wiki/Greek_language) : Kόρυμβος , Latin (/wiki/Latin_language) : Corymbus ; both meaning "cluster" or "uppermost points") [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECanepa2009324_(note_33)-1) was a jewel-studded globe containing the top hair of the ruler of the Sasanian (/wiki/Sasanian) dynasty of Iran (/wiki/Iran) , resting on his crown (/wiki/Sasanian_crowns) . It was introduced by Ardashir I (/wiki/Ardashir_I) ( r. 224–242 ). [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEShahbazi2005-2) The art historian Matthew P. Canepa (/wiki/Matthew_P._Canepa) notes that although the Greek word Korymbos or Latin Corymbus has become a scholarly convention to refer to the spherical shape on the top of Sasanian crowns, it is not an indigenous Iranian term. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECanepa2009324_(note_33)-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Canepa 2009 (#CITEREFCanepa2009) , p. 324 (note 33). ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEShahbazi2005_2-0) Shahbazi 2005 (#CITEREFShahbazi2005) . Sources [ edit ] Canepa, Matthew P. (/wiki/Matthew_Canepa) (2009). The Two Eyes of the Earth: Art and Ritual of Kingship Between Rome and Sasanian Iran . University of California Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0520257276 . Shahbazi, A. Shapur (/wiki/Alireza_Shapour_Shahbazi) (2005). "Sasanian dynasty" (http://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/sasanian-dynasty) . In Yarshater, Ehsan (/wiki/Ehsan_Yarshater) (ed.). Encyclopædia Iranica, Online Edition . Encyclopædia Iranica Foundation. NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐7cd59cdcfb‐mg8bb Cached time: 20240718062210 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.253 seconds Real time usage: 0.317 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 707/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 6991/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 742/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 9/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 7012/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.183/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 18205966/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 294.231 1 -total 42.98% 126.468 1 Template:Lang-el 28.74% 84.562 1 Template:Cite_book 12.85% 37.812 3 Template:Sfn 5.40% 15.901 1 Template:Encyclopædia_Iranica_Online 5.15% 15.141 1 Template:Reflist 4.50% 13.251 1 Template:Encyclopædia_Iranica 3.76% 11.049 1 Template:Reign 2.92% 8.601 1 Template:Cite_encyclopedia 1.61% 4.732 1 Template:Abbr Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:65425167-0!canonical and timestamp 20240718062210 and revision id 1121045303. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Korymbos_(headgear)&oldid=1121045303 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Korymbos_(headgear)&oldid=1121045303) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Iranian clothing (/wiki/Category:Iranian_clothing) Ardashir I (/wiki/Category:Ardashir_I) Sasanian Empire (/wiki/Category:Sasanian_Empire) Greek words and phrases (/wiki/Category:Greek_words_and_phrases) Headgear (/wiki/Category:Headgear) Hidden categories: Articles containing Greek-language text (/wiki/Category:Articles_containing_Greek-language_text) Articles containing Latin-language text (/wiki/Category:Articles_containing_Latin-language_text)
French debutante ball hide This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Bal_des_d%C3%A9butantes) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Bal_des_d%C3%A9butantes) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article's tone or style may not reflect the encyclopedic tone (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Tone) used on Wikipedia . See Wikipedia's guide to writing better articles (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Tone) for suggestions. ( December 2018 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article may contain an excessive amount of intricate detail that may interest only a particular audience . Please help by spinning off (/wiki/Wikipedia:Content_forking#Article_spinoffs:_.22Summary_style.22_meta-articles_and_summary_sections) or relocating (/wiki/Wikipedia:Handling_trivia#Recommendations_for_handling_trivia) any relevant information, and removing excessive detail that may be against Wikipedia's inclusion policy (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not) . ( May 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) A major contributor to this article appears to have a close connection (/wiki/Wikipedia:Conflict_of_interest) with its subject. It may require cleanup to comply with Wikipedia's content policies, particularly neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . Please discuss further on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Bal_des_d%C3%A9butantes) . ( May 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Le Bal des Débutantes Vanity Fair photo shoot with the 2011 Debutantes. Genre Clothing and fashion exhibitions Frequency annually Location(s) Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France Inaugurated 1958 Organised by Ophélie Renouard Le Bal des Débutantes , also known simply as "le Bal" (or, previously, the "Crillon Ball"), is a debutante ball (/wiki/Debutante_ball) and fashion event held annually in November in Paris (/wiki/Paris) , bringing together between 20 and 25 debutantes aged 16 to 22 from many countries, together with their parents and a similar number of young men. It started as a social event and was first held in the Orangery (/wiki/Versailles_Orangerie) of the Château de Versailles (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_de_Versailles) on 10 July 1958. [1] (#cite_note-fig-1) History The ball was started as a social event, and was first held in the Orangery (/wiki/Versailles_Orangerie) of the Château de Versailles (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_de_Versailles) on 10 July 1958. There were fifty debutantes; all were American. [1] (#cite_note-fig-1) For the ball of 1959, permission to use the Orangery came from André Malraux (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Malraux) ; the event was financed by the fashion and perfume houses of Paris. A hundred and fifty young women took part. [2] (#cite_note-exp-2) The event was not held in 1968 due to the May 68 (/wiki/May_68) worker uprising in France, and was subsequently not held for several decades. [3] (#cite_note-3) The ball was revived in 1992, organised by Ophélie Renouard as a fashion event by invitation. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-journaldesfemmes.com-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) From 1992 to 2012, it took place every year at the Hôtel de Crillon (/wiki/H%C3%B4tel_de_Crillon) , [9] (#cite_note-Telegraph2004-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) and thus was often called the "Crillon Ball". It is now sometimes referred to simply as "le Bal". [11] (#cite_note-11) In 2005, Forbes described the ball as one of the world's ten "hottest parties". [12] (#cite_note-12) Le Bal took place in 2013 and 2014 at Hôtel Raphael [13] (#cite_note-13) and in 2015 was held in the Palais de Chaillot, which overlooks the Eiffel Tower. [14] (#cite_note-Carbone-14) Le Bal was held at The Peninsula Paris (/wiki/The_Peninsula_Paris) in 2016 and 2017, [15] (#cite_note-15) and in 2018 and 2019 at the Shangri La Hotel in Paris. From the beginning the event has raised money for charities. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) From 2009 to 2019, it supported Enfants d'Asie (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Association_Enfants_d%27Asie) , an organization which provides education for girls in Southeast Asia. [18] (#cite_note-PhilTatler2010Popple-18) And from 2009 to 2019, it also supported Seleni, a non-profit organisation that finances research in healthcare for adolescent mothers. [5] (#cite_note-journaldesfemmes.com-5) In 2022, it supported the ARCFA (Association pour la Recherche en Cardiologie du Fœtus à l'Adulte) of the Necker Children's Hospital and the World Central Kitchen. [19] (#cite_note-19) Participants The criteria for invitation as a débutante are an attractive appearance, [9] (#cite_note-Telegraph2004-9) [20] (#cite_note-YoDona2007-20) intelligence, and famous parents. [9] (#cite_note-Telegraph2004-9) [21] (#cite_note-parismatch.com-21) The débutantes often come from families known in entertainment, business, or politics. [22] (#cite_note-22) As le Bal is also a couture event, the gowns are fashion show dresses and le Bal' s team endeavors to find the most suitable ones. [9] (#cite_note-Telegraph2004-9) From 2000 to 2003, le Bal welcomed a winner from a contest held by the French magazine Jalouse each year. Each one was chosen based on a submitted application. [23] (#cite_note-23) The majority of the participants must familiarize themselves with wearing haute couture dresses, trading common teen fashion items for "heels, tiaras and haute couture gowns worth up to £30,000 each". [24] (#cite_note-Aujourd2008-24) [9] (#cite_note-Telegraph2004-9) In interviews, the débutantes usually speak of the pleasure of wearing couture dresses, the charity aspect of the event, [18] (#cite_note-PhilTatler2010Popple-18) and the opportunity to meet girls from different countries. [25] (#cite_note-25) [26] (#cite_note-26) Each débutante is escorted by a cavalier . He may be by a young man of her own choosing, such as a brother, cousin, friend, or boyfriend. However, nearly half of the débutantes, particularly those travelling from abroad, don't bring their own cavaliers; they rely instead on the organizers of le Bal to find a cavalier. [27] (#cite_note-27) The organizer, Renouard, has stated that choosing the cavaliers based on their ages, the language they speak, their heights, and possibly their backgrounds usually produces an optimal match for the débutantes. [28] (#cite_note-https://www.tatlerasia.com/-28) Le Bal tries their best to not have more than two French girls every year. Many débutantes are part of the European aristocracy (/wiki/Aristocracy) , including princesses (/wiki/Princess) and duchesses (/wiki/Duchesses) . [29] (#cite_note-29) Ophélie Renouard says she favors Italian girls for their sophisticated look. [30] (#cite_note-30) Many others are daughters of actors and industry tycoons, such as Ava Philippe (/wiki/Ava_Philippe) , Jane Li (/wiki/Jet_Li) , Annabel Yao (/wiki/Ren_Zhengfei) , Stella Belmondo (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Belmondo) , True Whitaker (/wiki/Forest_Whitaker) , Ella Beatty (/wiki/Warren_Beatty) , Viola Mikkelsen (/wiki/Mads_Mikkelsen) , Sophia-Rose Stallone (/wiki/Sylvester_Stallone) , Scout LaRue (/wiki/Bruce_Willis) , Ondine and Harper Peck (/wiki/Gregory_Peck) , and Natasha Connery (/wiki/Sean_Connery) . Others are famous in their own right, such as ballerinas (/wiki/Ballet_dancer) and young prodigies: a few years ago, Lauren Marbe, the daughter of a cab driver in the UK whose IQ exceeded Einstein’s, and in 2015, Olivia Hallisey (/wiki/Olivia_Hallisey) , an American high schooler who won the first prize of the Google Science Fair (/wiki/Google_Science_Fair) for inventing a test for the Ebola (/wiki/Ebola) virus. [31] (#cite_note-31) In 2022 Eileen Gu (/wiki/Eileen_Gu) attended le Bal [32] (#cite_note-32) after winning two gold medals at the 2022 Winter Olympics (/wiki/2022_Winter_Olympics) . [33] (#cite_note-33) Notable debutantes Delphine Arnault (/wiki/Delphine_Arnault) , French businesswoman and daughter of LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) chairman Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) Leah Isadora Behn (/wiki/Leah_Isadora_Behn) (born 2005), member of the Norwegian royal family (/wiki/Norwegian_royal_family) Barbara Berlusconi (/wiki/Barbara_Berlusconi) (born 1984), Italian business executive and daughter of Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi (/wiki/Silvio_Berlusconi) Donna Bianca Brandolini d'Adda (/wiki/Bianca_Brandolini_d%27Adda) (born 1987), Italian socialite, model, social media influencer, and daughter of Princess Georgina de Faucigny-Lucinge et Coligny (/wiki/Princess_Georgina_Maria_Natividad_de_Faucigny-Lucinge_et_Coligny) Céline Buckens (/wiki/C%C3%A9line_Buckens) (born 1996), Belgian-British actress Lauren Bush (/wiki/Lauren_Bush) (born 1984), American fashion executive, granddaughter of 41st U.S. President George H. W. Bush (/wiki/George_H._W._Bush) , niece of 43rd U.S. President George W. Bush (/wiki/George_W._Bush) Lily Collins (/wiki/Lily_Collins) (born 1989), British-American actress and daughter of Phil Collins (/wiki/Phil_Collins) Anouchka Delon (/wiki/Anouchka_Delon) (born 1990), French-Dutch actress and daughter of Alain Delon (/wiki/Alain_Delon) Caroline Ghosn (/wiki/Caroline_Ghosn) (born 1987), American businesswoman and daughter of Carlos Ghosn (/wiki/Carlos_Ghosn) Eileen Gu (/wiki/Eileen_Gu) (born 2003), Chinese-American Olympic skier Archduchess Ildikó von Habsburg (born 2002), daughter of Archduke Georg von Habsburg (/wiki/Archduke_Georg_von_Habsburg) Archduchess Zsófia von Habsburg (born 2001), daughter of Archduke Georg von Habsburg Olivia Hallisey (/wiki/Olivia_Hallisey) , American scientist Dree Hemingway (/wiki/Dree_Hemingway) (born 1987), American actress, model, and great-granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway (/wiki/Ernest_Hemingway) Countess Lara Cosima Henckel von Donnersmarck (/wiki/Countess_Lara_Cosima_Henckel_von_Donnersmarck) (born 2003), German-American socialite, social media influencer, and daughter of Count Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck (/wiki/Count_Florian_Henckel_von_Donnersmarck) Angelina Jordan (/wiki/Angelina_Jordan) (born 2006), Norwegian singer Billie Lourd (/wiki/Billie_Lourd) (born 1992), American actress and daughter of Carrie Fisher (/wiki/Carrie_Fisher) Lady Tatiana Mountbatten (/wiki/Lady_Tatiana_Mountbatten) (born 1990), British equestrian and daughter of George Mountbatten, 4th Marquess of Milford Haven (/wiki/George_Mountbatten,_4th_Marquess_of_Milford_Haven) Atasha Muhlach (/wiki/Atasha_Muhlach) (born 2001), Filipina actress and singer, daughter of actors Aga Muhlach (/wiki/Aga_Muhlach) and Charlene Gonzales (/wiki/Charlene_Gonzales) . India Oxenberg (/wiki/India_Oxenberg) (born 1991), American actress, documentary film producer, and granddaughter of Princess Elizabeth of Yugoslavia (/wiki/Princess_Elizabeth_of_Yugoslavia) Iman Perez (/wiki/Iman_Perez) (born 1999), French model, actress, and daughter of Vincent Perez (/wiki/Vincent_Perez) Margaret Qualley (/wiki/Margaret_Qualley) (born 1994), American actress and daughter of Andie MacDowell (/wiki/Andie_MacDowell) Rainey Qualley (/wiki/Rainey_Qualley) (born 1989), American actress, singer, and daughter of Andie MacDowell Princess Mélusine Ruspoli (/wiki/Princess_M%C3%A9lusine_Ruspoli) (born 1994), Italian socialite, model, and daughter of Alessandro Ruspoli, 9th Prince of Cerveteri (/wiki/Alessandro_Ruspoli,_9th_Prince_of_Cerveteri) Lady Kitty Spencer (/wiki/Lady_Kitty_Spencer) (born 1990), British model, daughter of Charles Spencer, 9th Earl Spencer (/wiki/Charles_Spencer,_9th_Earl_Spencer) , niece of Diana, Princess of Wales (/wiki/Diana,_Princess_of_Wales) Lady Amelia Windsor (/wiki/Lady_Amelia_Windsor) (born 1995), British model and member of the British royal family (/wiki/British_royal_family) Character The ball introduces the world of high fashion to its invited débutantes, who are usually the daughters of well-known families. It can also be seen as an opportunity for fashion houses to achieve brand exposure. [28] (#cite_note-https://www.tatlerasia.com/-28) [34] (#cite_note-34) The young women wear haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) dresses by European designers [35] (#cite_note-35) and overseas fashion houses. They all wear jewelry from the same jeweler. [36] (#cite_note-madame.lefigaro.fr-36) Some couture houses have produced special ball gowns for the event. In 2003, Carolina Herrera (/wiki/Carolina_Herrera_(fashion_designer)) made one for Diana Mellon, and in 2014 Danish designer Jesper Hovring made a dress for Viola Mikkelsen. [37] (#cite_note-37) In 2018, the Indo-French fashion house Lecoanet Hemant made a gown for Princess Ananya Raje Scindia of Gwalior. [38] (#cite_note-38) Jet Li's daughter Jane Li was dressed by Dior in 2019. [39] (#cite_note-39) In 2008, French actor Jean Rochefort (/wiki/Jean_Rochefort) 's daughter Clémence made her debut wearing a Nina Ricci (/wiki/Nina_Ricci_(brand)) ball gown. [40] (#cite_note-40) Anna Cleveland van Ravenstein, on the other hand, had been modeling for Chanel for years before "Uncle" Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) helped her to pick out a vintage gown for le Bal. [41] (#cite_note-my.asiatatler.com-41) Deb Sokhna N'dour dressing for le Bal in 2008 The ball takes place on a Saturday, but preparations include meeting the débutantes, their families and their cavaliers in advance. [42] (#cite_note-SundayTimes2012-42) On the eve of le Bal , a Friday, the débutantes come together for the first time. Makeup and hair styling sessions start at 9:00am: with By Terry for makeup [43] (#cite_note-43) and with Alexandre de Paris (/wiki/Louis_Alexandre_Raimon) for hair. [44] (#cite_note-44) After this, the débutantes put on their dresses, long gloves (/wiki/Long_gloves) , shoes, [21] (#cite_note-parismatch.com-21) and jewels, and there are individual and group photo sessions [45] (#cite_note-You2008-45) which last for the rest of the day. [42] (#cite_note-SundayTimes2012-42) On Friday evening, the débutantes' fathers and cavaliers are offered a waltz class with two dance teachers. [42] (#cite_note-SundayTimes2012-42) Debs dance and talk at the 2009 Ball at the Hôtel de Crillon. The débutantes are introduced in alphabetical order on the arms of their cavaliers [42] (#cite_note-SundayTimes2012-42) by journalist and author Stéphane Bern (/wiki/St%C3%A9phane_Bern) . [46] (#cite_note-46) Then the dinner is served. [24] (#cite_note-Aujourd2008-24) After dinner, the débutantes who are the most followed by the media open le Bal , followed by all of the fathers with their daughters. [24] (#cite_note-Aujourd2008-24) [47] (#cite_note-PointVue2008Lauriot-47) Opening dance Each year since 2005, there has been a débutante who opens the dancing with a waltz. [48] (#cite_note-48) 2005: Bianca Brandolini d'Adda (/wiki/Bianca_Brandolini_d%27Adda) with the master of ceremony, Prince Charles-Philippe d'Orléans (/wiki/Prince_Charles_Philippe,_Duke_of_Anjou) [49] (#cite_note-49) 2006: Xiaodan Chen (/wiki/Chen_Yun) with Stéphane Bern [50] (#cite_note-50) [51] (#cite_note-51) 2007: Maria Abou Nader with Stéphane Bern [52] (#cite_note-52) 2008: Bruce Willis (/wiki/Bruce_Willis) and Alain Delon (/wiki/Alain_Delon) launched le Bal together, leading Scout Larue Willis in Lacroix (/wiki/Christian_Lacroix) Haute Couture and Anouchka Delon (/wiki/Anouchka_Delon) in Elie Saab (/wiki/Elie_Saab) Haute Couture, with the waltz from Luchino Visconti (/wiki/Luchino_Visconti) 's film Il Gattopardo [53] (#cite_note-53) 2009: Autumn Whitaker with Forest Whitaker (/wiki/Forest_Whitaker) , and Jasmine Li (/wiki/Jia_Qinglin) with Stéphane Bern [54] (#cite_note-54) 2011: Tallulah Willis with Bruce Willis [ citation needed ] 2012: Sophia Rose Stallone in Elie Saab (/wiki/Elie_Saab) Haute Couture with Sylvester Stallone (/wiki/Sylvester_Stallone) [55] (#cite_note-55) 2014: Princess Elizabeth of Bourbon-Parma (/wiki/Bourbon-Parma) in Alexis Mabille (/wiki/Alexis_Mabille) Haute Couture with Prince Charles-Emmanuel of Bourbon-Parma [36] (#cite_note-madame.lefigaro.fr-36) [56] (#cite_note-56) 2015: Iman Perez (/wiki/Iman_Perez) with Vincent Perez [57] (#cite_note-57) [58] (#cite_note-leparisien.fr-58) and Countess Gloria de Limburg-Stirum (/wiki/Limburg-Stirum) with Count Thierry de Limburg-Stirum [58] (#cite_note-leparisien.fr-58) 2016: Countess Angélique de Limburg-Stirum and her father Thierry de Limburg-Stirum opened the ball, [59] (#cite_note-59) followed by Yu Hang [60] (#cite_note-60) and Elle Beatty. [ citation needed ] 2017: Ava Philippe (/wiki/Ava_Philippe) in Giambattista Valli (/wiki/Giambattista_Valli) haute couture danced with her escort, Maharaja Padmanabh Singh (/wiki/Padmanabh_Singh) of Jaipur (/wiki/Jaipur) . The two danced to a song from the film La La Land (/wiki/La_La_Land_(film)) . [61] (#cite_note-61) 2018: True Whitaker and her father Forest Whitaker (/wiki/Forest_Whitaker) opened le Bal, along with then Annabel Yao and her cavalier Jean de Croÿ-Solre and Gabrielle de Pourtalès and Stéphane Bern. [ citation needed ] 2019: French actor Jean-Paul Belmondo's daughter Stella Belmondo opened le Bal with Stéphane Bern, [62] (#cite_note-62) followed by Shanaya Kapoor [63] (#cite_note-63) and Iglesias twins Victoria and Cristina. [ citation needed ] 2022: The French Royal Princess Hélène of Orléans opened le Bal with her father the Duke of Chartres, followed by Wenhao Cai and her father the Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang (/wiki/Cai_Guo-Qiang) and Leah Behn, the daughter of the Royal Princess Martha Louise of Norway, and Stéphane Bern. [64] (#cite_note-64) 2023: Countess Lara Cosima Henckel von Donnersmarck (/wiki/Lara_Cosima_Henckel_von_Donnersmarck) with her father, Count Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck (/wiki/Florian_Henckel_von_Donnersmarck) This opening dance is followed by a waltz with all of the fathers and débutantes. The fathers then cede their daughters to the cavaliers, and the waltz is replaced with contemporary music with a live band. The debs then return their dresses and their jewels. The débutantes and their cavaliers finish the evening out clubbing. [65] (#cite_note-65) Media coverage The 2011 Debs photographed at le Bal Coverage often emphasizes the cachet of the event and its elegance. 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"I went to Le Bal des Débutantes, where kids of Hollywood legends, royals, and business moguls make their high-society debut. It was a night full of glamour I'll never forget" (https://www.insider.com/inside-le-bal-des-debutantes-attended-by-stars-and-royals-2022-12) . Insider . Retrieved 17 March 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Chinese Olympian Eileen Gu working for Salt Lake Games bid" (https://apnews.com/article/eileen-gu-winter-olympics-sports-china-beijing-b1549a2c689f7086af97993dfcadadc3) . AP NEWS . 8 June 2022 . Retrieved 17 March 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Menkes, Suzy (23 November 1993). "International Herald Tribune". Haute Couture and the Upper Crust . pp. 1–9. ^ (#cite_ref-35) Zan, Jean-Claude (1992). "Paris Match". Les Plus Belles Débutantes du Monde . ^ Jump up to: a b "Le Bal des débutantes, haute société et haute couture" (http://madame.lefigaro.fr/celebrites/le-bal-des-debutantes-haute-societe-et-haute-couture-301114-82854) . Madame Figaro (in French). 30 November 2014 . 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Qui sont les débutantes du Bal 2022 ?" (https://madame.lefigaro.fr/celebrites/actu-people/natasha-connery-helene-d-orleans-eileen-gu-qui-sont-les-debutantes-du-bal-2022-20221125) . Madame Figaro (in French). 25 November 2022 . Retrieved 17 March 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-65) Galy-Ramounot, Marion (25 November 2012). "Figaro Madame". Bal des Débutantes : J'y étais . ^ (#cite_ref-66) Cardoso, Cíntia (7 December 2008). "Folha de S.Paulo". Cinderela em Paris . ^ (#cite_ref-67) Fraser-Cavassoni, Natasha (February 2010). "Philippine Tatler". The Ball Issue: Having a Ball . 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(Redirected from George Barnett Musician/Model (/w/index.php?title=George_Barnett_Musician/Model&redirect=no) ) English band These New Puritans Origin Southend-on-Sea (/wiki/Southend-on-Sea) , England Genres Post-punk (/wiki/Post-punk) , art rock (/wiki/Art_rock) , post-rock (/wiki/Post-rock) , neo-classical music (/wiki/Neo-classical_music) , industrial (/wiki/Industrial_music) , experimental (/wiki/Experimental_music) [1] (#cite_note-1) Years active 2006–present Labels Infectious Music (/wiki/Infectious_Records) Angular (/wiki/Angular_Recording_Corporation) / Domino (/wiki/Domino_Recording_Company) (former) Members Jack Barnett George Barnett (/wiki/George_Barnett_(musician_born_1988)) Past members Thomas Hein (2006–2016) Sophie Sleigh-Johnson (2006–2010) Website Official website (http://www.thesenewpuritans.com/) These New Puritans are an English music group/band from Southend-on-Sea (/wiki/Southend-on-Sea) , England. It consists mainly of Jack Barnett (principal songwriter, vocalist, producer, multi-instrumentalist) and his twin brother George Barnett (/wiki/George_Barnett_(musician_born_1988)) (drums, electronics, producer, artwork). Multi-instrumentalist Thomas Hein was an active member of TNP between 2006 and 2016; keyboardist Sophie Sleigh-Johnson was active between 2006 and 2010. They have recorded four studio albums: Beat Pyramid (/wiki/Beat_Pyramid) (2008), Hidden (/wiki/Hidden_(These_New_Puritans_album)) (2010), Field of Reeds (/wiki/Field_of_Reeds) (2013) and Inside the Rose (/wiki/Inside_the_Rose) (2019). Their music has been described as "blurring the distinction between rock, classical, electronic and experimental" [2] (#cite_note-2) and as "strikingly modern yet simultaneously timeless." [3] (#cite_note-3) History [ edit ] Formation and early years [ edit ] The Barnett brothers grew up in the Essex (/wiki/Essex) town of Southend-on-Sea. [4] (#cite_note-4) Their father was a builder and their mother was an art teacher. George and Jack made music together as children with "karaoke microphones, old bongos and guitars too large for their tiny hands", [5] (#cite_note-Monroe-5) later focusing on electronic music (/wiki/Electronic_music) . They formed the band together with childhood friend Tom Hein, who grew up in nearby Billericay (/wiki/Billericay) . [6] (#cite_note-6) In a 2008 interview, Jack Barnett said that hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop) acts Wu-Tang Clan (/wiki/Wu-Tang_Clan) , especially member RZA (/wiki/RZA) , [7] (#cite_note-RS-7) Timbaland (/wiki/Timbaland) and J Dilla (/wiki/J_Dilla) influenced the first album Beat Pyramid . [8] (#cite_note-8) Other inspirations include the electronic music of Aphex Twin (/wiki/Aphex_Twin) and the cartoon series The Smurfs (/wiki/The_Smurfs_(1981_TV_series)) , [7] (#cite_note-RS-7) though Jack Barnett later suggested this was not serious. [9] (#cite_note-9) TNP have been described as "falling in the tradition of British outliers that also includes Robert Wyatt (/wiki/Robert_Wyatt) , Talk Talk (/wiki/Talk_Talk) , Bark Psychosis (/wiki/Bark_Psychosis) and Scott Walker (/wiki/Scott_Walker_(singer)) ." [10] (#cite_note-10) Although unusual for a rock group, the band often incorporates the same section of music into different songs as refrains (/wiki/Refrain) . [11] (#cite_note-11) Hidden [ edit ] Before their second album Hidden was released, Barnett revealed that he had been writing music for bassoon (/wiki/Bassoon) and stated that the aim was for a final product where " dancehall (/wiki/Dancehall) meets Steve Reich (/wiki/Steve_Reich) ". [12] (#cite_note-12) He taught himself musical notation to score the brass and woodwind elements of the album. [13] (#cite_note-Kinney-13) In a 2010 interview with Jack Barnett, Paul Morley (/wiki/Paul_Morley) described These New Puritans' new material on Hidden as "very 1970, but also quite 1610, 1950, 1979, 1989, 2005 and 2070". [14] (#cite_note-14) When performing live during the Hidden era they were often accompanied by a five-piece brass-woodwind ensemble. [15] (#cite_note-15) In 2010 they performed a series of full live performances of Hidden (featuring a brass-woodwind ensemble, Taiko (/wiki/Taiko) drums, children's choir, three vibraphonists and live Foley (/wiki/Foley_(filmmaking)) techniques) entitled Hidden Live , at venues such as the Barbican Centre (/wiki/Barbican_Centre) (featuring the Britten Sinfonia (/wiki/Britten_Sinfonia) ), the Pompidou Centre (/wiki/Pompidou_Centre) and Berghain (/wiki/Berghain) . [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) In 2010 the song "We Want War" featured on the Assassin's Creed Brotherhood soundtrack. [18] (#cite_note-18) In October 2020, the band announced a reissue of the album titled Hidden [MMXX] out 4 December via Domino (/wiki/Domino_Recording_Company) , which included unreleased songs from the original recording sessions as well as two live recordings. The release was made available on vinyl (/wiki/Phonograph_record) . [19] (#cite_note-19) Field of Reeds [ edit ] In a May 2010 interview with C.B.Liddell, Jack Barnett revealed that he was interested in Melanesian (/wiki/Melanesia) music and that he anticipated that the next TNPS album would be "quieter." [20] (#cite_note-20) Towards the end of 2012 the band remixed "Mutual Core" by Björk (/wiki/Bj%C3%B6rk) , which featured on the remix album Bastards (/wiki/Bastards_(Bj%C3%B6rk_album)) . [21] (#cite_note-21) In June 2013, they released their third album, Field of Reeds (/wiki/Field_of_Reeds) , which featured jazz singer Elisa Rodrigues. The video clip for the single Organ Eternal was directed by Willy Vanderperre and featured the acclaimed Belgian actress Line Pillet (https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_Pillet) . [22] (#cite_note-22) Musically Field of Reeds was described as "uncategorizable" [23] (#cite_note-23) and as drawing heavily on avant-garde classical composition. [24] (#cite_note-24) For the "Fragment Two" video, they reunited with Daniel Askill (/wiki/Daniel_Askill) , who'd previously directed "We Want War". [25] (#cite_note-25) Following Field of Reeds , TNP moved to Berlin (/wiki/Berlin) and set up in a dilapidated old Soviet (/wiki/Soviet_Union) broadcasting studio in the industrial suburbs. [13] (#cite_note-Kinney-13) In 2015 Jack collaborated in the studio with Robert Del Naja (/wiki/Robert_Del_Naja) of Massive Attack (/wiki/Massive_Attack) . [26] (#cite_note-26) Inside The Rose [ edit ] These New Puritans returned in November 2018 with the song, "Into the Fire", which was released digitally and as a limited edition flame-coloured 7" single. [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) This was followed in January 2019 by an erotic, gender-blurring video for "Inside The Rose", [29] (#cite_note-29) made in collaboration with photographer Harley Weir (/w/index.php?title=Harley_Weir&action=edit&redlink=1) , and the announcement of a new album of the same name. Recorded in Essex, London and Berlin, and mixed in Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) , Inside the Rose was described as "another creative reinvention" [5] (#cite_note-Monroe-5) and as their most direct and accessible music yet. [30] (#cite_note-30) The album's release was marked with a " happening (/wiki/Happening) " event at the Institute of Contemporary Arts (/wiki/Institute_of_Contemporary_Arts) , involving a stage set constructed out of slashed silk hung from scaffolding, designed by George Barnett and artist Freya Don. [31] (#cite_note-31) The support act was performance artist Soojin Chang (/wiki/Soojin_Chang) . [32] (#cite_note-32) After the release of Inside the Rose it was announced that Thomas Hein had departed the group, due to his academic commitments in studying computational neuroscience (/wiki/Computational_neuroscience) . [33] (#cite_note-33) In February 2020, they released The Cut (2016–2019) , a so-called 'sister album' to Inside the Rose , containing new music begun during the album sessions, orchestral interludes and reworkings, and remixes. [34] (#cite_note-34) It was made available via a limited edition CD, each copy containing hand-cut silk artwork. [ citation needed ] This was followed by The Blue Door, their third performance at the Barbican Centre in London, which featured large-scale video projections and two scaffold (/wiki/Scaffolding) -tower installations draped in gauze, with a band augmented by sopranos, brass, percussion and special guests. [35] (#cite_note-35) In May 2020 during the COVID-19 (/wiki/COVID-19) epidemic, TNP produced two Jigsaw puzzles (/wiki/Jigsaw_puzzle) in collaboration with Harley Weir. All profits from the project were donated to the National Health Service (/wiki/National_Health_Service) . Once completed, the puzzles displayed codewords which led to a download of a new 4-track EP. [36] (#cite_note-36) Projects [ edit ] TNPS worked with designer Hedi Slimane (/wiki/Hedi_Slimane) and recorded the song "Navigate, Navigate" for the Dior (/wiki/Dior) Homme Hiver 2007 show. Both the music and the collection received positive reviews. [37] (#cite_note-37) The band members also took part in an art/dance performance at the Palais de Tokyo (/wiki/Palais_de_Tokyo) in Paris for the after-show of the Stage of the Art. In 2013 Jack Barnett contributed to the Current 93 (/wiki/Current_93) album I Am the Last of All the Field That Fell: A Channel (/wiki/I_Am_the_Last_of_All_the_Field_That_Fell:_A_Channel) alongside Nick Cave (/wiki/Nick_Cave) and Anohni (/wiki/Anohni) . [38] (#cite_note-38) The next year, TNP soundtracked the first authorised theatrical production of Aldous Huxley (/wiki/Aldous_Huxley) 's novel Brave New World (/wiki/Brave_New_World) . [39] (#cite_note-39) In 2017 they were commissioned to write a piece to mark the 70th anniversary of Indian independence from the British Empire. [40] (#cite_note-40) The band collaborated again with Hedi Slimane (/wiki/Hedi_Slimane) for the launch of the new Celine (/wiki/Celine) campaign in February 2021, with music released under the artist name THE LOOM soundtracking the brand's new collection launch. [41] (#cite_note-41) Discography [ edit ] Studio albums [ edit ] Beat Pyramid (/wiki/Beat_Pyramid) (2008) No. 188 UK Hidden (/wiki/Hidden_(These_New_Puritans_album)) (2010) No. 100 UK; No. 10 UK Indie Field of Reeds (/wiki/Field_of_Reeds) (2013) No. 90 UK; No. 17 UK Indie Inside the Rose (/wiki/Inside_the_Rose) (2019) Live albums [ edit ] EXPANDED (Live at the Barbican) (2014) Compilation albums [ edit ] The Cut (2016–2019) (2020) Singles and EPs [ edit ] " Now Pluvial (/wiki/Now_Pluvial) " (30 October 2006) – 7" (/wiki/Gramophone_record) [42] (#cite_note-42) "Navigate, Navigate" (21 May 2007) – 12"/ Digital download (/wiki/Music_download) [43] (#cite_note-43) "Numbers"/"Colours" (5 November 2007) – 7" [44] (#cite_note-44) "Elvis" (21 January 2008) – 7"/CD [45] (#cite_note-45) "Swords of Truth" (5 May 2008) – 7"/12"/Digital Download [46] (#cite_note-46) "We Want War" (11 January 2010) – 10"/Digital Download "Attack Music" (12 April 2010) – Digital Download "Hologram" (26 July 2010) "White Chords" (2010) "Fragment Two" (2013) – CD, Single, Promo "Organ Eternal" (2013) – CD, Single, Promo "V (Island Song)" (2013) – CD, Single, Promo "Magnetic Field" (2013) – 12", Ltd, Num "Into the Fire" (2018) - 7" Music videos [ edit ] Elvis (2008) Swords of Truth (2008) We Want War (2010) Attack Music (2010) Hologram (2010) Fragment Two (2012) Organ Eternal (2013) V (Island Song) (2013) Inside the Rose (2019) Where the Trees Are on Fire (2019) Six (2019) Beyond Black Suns (2019) Contributions to other works [ edit ] These New Puritans have contributed songs to the following CD compilations: "Chamber" – Digital Penetration (September 2006) "I Want to Be Tracey Emin (/wiki/Tracey_Emin) " – Future Love Songs (December 2006) "Elvis" (demo) – Dance Floor Distortion (December 2006) "Colours" – 2000 Trees: Cider Smiles Vol. 1 (Hide and Seek Records, June 2008) Music from Aldous Huxley's Brave New World – Incidental: Music for the Stage (Filmtrax, October 2021) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "These New Puritans" (http://www.thesenewpuritans.com/) . These New Puritans . Retrieved 22 March 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Moody, Paul (18 March 2019). "These New Puritans speak on their experimental ICA event" (https://www.anothermanmag.com/life-culture/10753/these-new-puritans-inside-the-rose-ica-event-harley-weir-interview) . Another Man . Retrieved 20 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Idelji-Tehrani, Saam (13 March 2019). "These New Puritans dream forwards on the astonishing Inside The Rose" (https://www.thelineofbestfit.com/reviews/albums/inside-the-rose-these-new-puritans-album-review) . The Line of Best Fit . Retrieved 20 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Kinney, Bunny (19 February 2014). "These New Puritans Rip It Up and Start Again" (http://www.papermag.com/these-new-puritans-rip-it-up-and-start-again-1427219025.html) . Paper Magazine . Retrieved 19 July 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b Monroe, Jazz (March 2019). "Q Maverick". Q Magazine . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "These New Puritans Rip It Up and Start Again" (http://www.papermag.com/these-new-puritans-rip-it-up-and-start-again-1427219025.html) . 19 February 2014. ^ Jump up to: a b "Breaking Artist: These New Puritans" (https://www.rollingstone.com/music/music-news/breaking-artist-these-new-puritans-247469) . Rolling Stone . 7 May 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Photos by Harley Weir (2 March 2010). "Best of What's Next: These New Puritans :: Features :: Paste" (http://www.pastemagazine.com/articles/2010/03/best-of-whats-next-these-new-puritans.html) . Pastemagazine.com . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Moody, Paul (8 June 2017). "Sonic Universe" (https://www.anothermanmag.com/library/9920/these-new-puritans) . AnotherMan . Retrieved 19 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Best of 2013 New Releases". Uncut Magazine . January 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Merry Swankster: May 2008 Archives" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090623220731/http://www.merryswankster.com/archives/2008/05/) . Archived from the original (http://www.merryswankster.com/archives/2008/05/) on 23 June 2009 . Retrieved 7 February 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Music – Review of These New Puritans – Hidden" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/music/reviews/xbd3) . BBC . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b Kinney, Fergal (March 2019). "The constant unpredictability of Jack and George Barnett". Loud and Quiet . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Paul Morley talks to These New Puritans" (https://www.theguardian.com/music/video/2010/jan/22/these-new-puritans) . The Guardian . London. 22 January 2010 . Retrieved 25 May 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "These New Puritans – "Hologram" | Vice Music Blog" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110807074449/http://www.viceland.com/music/2010/02/these-new-puritans-hologram/) . Viceland.com. 11 February 2010. Archived from the original (http://viceland.com/music/2010/02/these-new-puritans-hologram) on 7 August 2011 . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "These New Puritans with the Britten Sinfonia + Darkstar" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130301072647/http://www.barbican.org.uk/music/event-detail.asp?ID=11128) . Barbican. 23 October 2010. Archived from the original (http://www.barbican.org.uk/music/event-detail.asp?ID=11128) on 1 March 2013 . Retrieved 2 July 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Dorian Lynskey (24 October 2010). "These New Puritans with the Britten Sinfonia – review | Music" (https://www.theguardian.com/music/2010/oct/24/these-new-puritans-barbican-review) . The Guardian . London . Retrieved 2 July 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "These New Puritans Endorce Assassin's Creed Brotherhood - Music Snobbery" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100915050512/http://www.musicsnobbery.com/2010/06/these-new-puritans-endorce-assassins-creed-brotherhood.html) . 15 September 2010. Archived from the original (http://www.musicsnobbery.com/2010/06/these-new-puritans-endorce-assassins-creed-brotherhood.html) on 15 September 2010 . Retrieved 22 March 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Monroe, Jazz (26 October 2020). "These New Puritans to Reissue Hidden for 10th Anniversary" (https://pitchfork.com/news/these-new-puritans-to-reissue-hidden-for-10th-anniversary/) . Pitchfork . Retrieved 26 October 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Arts & Entertainment | These New Puritans" (http://metropolis.co.jp/arts/music/these-new-puritans/) . Metropolis. 20 May 2010 . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Stream Björk's Biophilia Remix Album With Death Grips, Hudson Mohawke, These New Puritans, More | News" (http://pitchfork.com/news/48560-stream-bjorks-biophilia-remix-album-with-death-grips-hudson-mohawke-these-new-puritans-more/) . Pitchfork. 12 November 2012 . Retrieved 2 July 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "BBC Radio 1 – Zane Lowe, Classic Deadmau5 live, These New Puritans – Fragment Two" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p018qjjg) . Bbc.co.uk. 7 May 2013 . Retrieved 2 July 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Pop, rock and jazz". The Sunday Times . 9 June 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Best of 2103 New Releases". Uncut Magazine . January 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-25) McClure, Kelly. "These New Puritans - We Want War" (https://bust.com/music/4451-these-new-puritans-we-want-war.html) . Bust.com . Retrieved 19 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Morgan Britton, Luke (15 October 2015). "These New Puritans Talk New Music, Soviet Propaganda And Working With Massive Attack" (https://www.nme.com/blogs/nme-blogs/these-new-puritans-talk-new-music-soviet-propaganda-and-working-with-massive-attack-762106) . NME . Retrieved 19 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) David Renshaw (7 November 2018). "These New Puritans return with "Into The Fire" (https://www.thefader.com/2018/11/07/these-new-puritans-into-the-fire-premiere/) " (https://www.thefader.com/2018/11/07/these-new-puritans-into-the-fire-premiere/) . The Fader . Retrieved 8 November 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Eede, Christian (8 November 2018). "New These New Puritans" (http://thequietus.com/articles/25640-these-new-puritans-new-track-listen) . The Quietus (/wiki/The_Quietus) . Retrieved 23 November 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "The Quietus | Features | The Lead Review | Bloomin' Marvellous! These New Puritans' Inside The Rose Reviewed" (https://thequietus.com/articles/26221-these-new-puritans-inside-the-rose-review) . The Quietus . Retrieved 3 April 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Skinner, Wilf (21 March 2019). "These New Puritans - Inside The Rose" (https://www.clashmusic.com/reviews/these-new-puritans-inside-the-rose) . Clash Music . Retrieved 19 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Moody, Paul (18 March 2019). "These New Puritans Speak On Their Experimental ICA Event" (https://www.anothermanmag.com/life-culture/10753/these-new-puritans-inside-the-rose-ica-event-harley-weir-interview) . Another Man . Retrieved 19 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "21-MARCH-2019 : INSIDE THE ROSE : A PUBLIC VIEW : LIVE AT THE ICA" (https://www.thesenewpuritans.com/ica/) . These New Puritans . 23 March 2019 . Retrieved 7 October 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Harrison, Angus (March 2019). "Dream Forwards". Crack Magazine . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "The Cut is an essential reworking and reimagining of These New Puritans' recent output" (https://www.thelineofbestfit.com/reviews/albums/the-cut-these-new-puritans-2016-2019-album-review) . The Line of Best Fit . Retrieved 5 April 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "The Quietus | Features | Three Songs No Flash | A Kind Of Paradise, A Kind Of Nightmare: These New Puritans Live At The Barbican" (https://thequietus.com/articles/27865-these-new-puritans-the-blue-door-the-barbican-review) . The Quietus . Retrieved 15 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Monroe, Jazz (14 May 2020). "These New Puritans Selling Jigsaw Puzzles for Charity" (https://pitchfork.com/news/these-new-puritans-selling-jigsaw-puzzles-for-charity/) . Pitchfork . Retrieved 15 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) [1] (http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/F2007MEN/review/CDMEN) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20070314033157/http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/F2007MEN/review/CDMEN) 14 March 2007 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-38) Minsker, Evan (6 November 2013). "Current 93's Next Album Features Nick Cave, Antony, These New Puritans' Barnett" (https://pitchfork.com/news/52915-current-93s-next-album-features-nick-cave-antony-these-new-puritans-barnett-more/) . Pitchfork . Retrieved 19 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Monroe, Jazz (10 September 2015). "Enslaved by Our Own Fallibility, Weakness and Desire - I Suppose Aldous Huxley Was Right" (https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/65pnxa/an-interview-with-these-new-puritans-about-brave-new-world) . Vice . Retrieved 19 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Audiovisual project Different Trains 1947 celebrates 70 years of Indian independence" (https://www.thewire.co.uk/news/46898/different-trains-1947-in-celebration-of-70-years-of-indian-independence) . The Wire . 1 June 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Celine's FW 2021 show 'Teen Knight Poem' was held in a medieval castle" (https://www.russh.com/celine-teen-knight-poem/) . 9 February 2021. ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Angular website – "Rest in Peace, These N-w Puritans…" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110707155017/http://www.arc018.com/?m=20061030) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20110707155017/http://www.arc018.com/?m=20061030) . Arc018.com. Archived from the original (http://arc018.com/?m=20061030) on 7 July 2011 . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "Angular website – catalogue" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110707155033/http://www.arc018.com/?page_id=2) . Arc018.com. Archived from the original (http://arc018.com/?page_id=2) on 7 July 2011 . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Angular website – "THESE NEW!S! PURITANS" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110707155107/http://www.arc018.com/?m=20071030) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20110707155107/http://www.arc018.com/?m=20071030) . Arc018.com. Archived from the original (http://arc018.com/?m=20071030) on 7 July 2011 . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) "Banquet Records" (http://www.banquetrecords.com/index.jsp?item=8678) . Banquet Records. 17 March 2009 . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) UK. "Angular Records' Official MySpace page" (http://www.myspace.com/angularrecords) . Myspace.com . Retrieved 23 May 2011 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.thesenewpuritans.com) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000122888408) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/134434129) National United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/no2006122912) Artists MusicBrainz (https://musicbrainz.org/artist/95bab79d-e5e8-4d7a-9368-d51430763c69) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐49ss9 Cached time: 20240713195740 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.542 seconds Real time usage: 0.724 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2820/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 82408/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2460/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 8/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 167141/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.352/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6314006/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 633.218 1 -total 46.74% 295.941 1 Template:Reflist 32.87% 208.116 36 Template:Cite_web 15.40% 97.502 1 Template:Infobox_musical_artist 13.06% 82.674 1 Template:Authority_control 12.88% 81.551 1 Template:Short_description 9.30% 58.871 1 Template:Infobox 7.65% 48.445 2 Template:Pagetype 6.17% 39.066 1 Template:Citation_needed 5.63% 35.666 1 Template:Fix Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:8091285-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713195740 and revision id 1224353548. 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Susanna Perini is a fashion designer and art collector based in Bali, Indonesia. She is the founder of fashion label BIASA [1] (#cite_note-1) and art institution BIASA ArtSpace. Her great contribution to the development of fashion and art in Indonesia merited her a knighthood of the Order of Merit of the Republic (/wiki/Order_of_Merit_of_the_Italian_Republic) by the Italian government in 2017. [2] (#cite_note-2) Early years [ edit ] Born to a family of couturiers in Rome, Italy, Susanna Perini was already exposed to sartorial craftsmanship since a very young age. After finishing her bachelor's degree, Perini took up photography and went to Bali (/wiki/Bali) , Indonesia, for an assignment by weekly magazine IO Donna (/wiki/IO_Donna) . The young Italian was inspired by the culture of the tropical island, from the various ceremonies to the details related to the customs and traditional clothing pieces. She made Bali home and married American designer Paul Ropp there. After giving birth to two children, Nova Ropp and Sayang Ropp, they went separate ways. [3] (#cite_note-3) Fashion design [ edit ] In 1994, Perini opened the first BIASA store in Seminyak (/wiki/Seminyak) , championing chic tropical style with white linen fabrics. To date, the brand grew with six stores in Bali and one store in Kemang (/wiki/Kemang,_Jakarta) , South Jakarta. [4] (#cite_note-4) Art [ edit ] Inspired by her dialogues with Indonesian artists, Perini opened BIASA ArtSpace in 2005. [5] (#cite_note-5) The institution exists to get recognition for Indonesian artists from art collectors in and from outside Indonesia. [6] (#cite_note-6) Through BIASA ArtSpace, Perini helped translate and publish some literary reviews by notable Italian art critic Achille Bonita Oliva (/wiki/Achille_Bonito_Oliva) . The publication titles include "Thisoriented. 2nd Stage [7] (#cite_note-7) " (2009), a review on art photographer Matteo Basilé's exhibition at BIASA ArtSpace, and "Art Beyond The Year Two Thousand" (2011), a sharp observation on the world of arts after 2000. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "The 'Made in Indonesia' Opportunity" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-currents/the-made-in-indonesia-opportunity) . The Business of Fashion . 2017-11-14 . Retrieved 2019-11-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Feminista! • The Yak Online" (https://www.theyakmag.com/feminista/) . The Yak Online . 2019-08-30 . Retrieved 2019-11-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Royo, Alessandra Lopez y (2019-10-31). Contemporary Indonesian Fashion: Through the Looking Glass . Bloomsbury Publishing. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781350061316 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Ellwood, Mark (2018-10-25). "On Bali, a Retail Scene That's Equal Parts Varied and Vibrant" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/10/25/style/bali-retail-scene-varied-and-vibrant.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2019-11-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Biasa Art Gallery Jakarta - One of The Best Activities in Jakarta" (http://jktgo.com/activities/biasa-artspace-jakarta/) . jktgo.com . Retrieved 2019-11-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Dharma, Annisa (2016-02-23). "A Life Less Ordinary" (https://annisadharma.com/portfolio/a-life-less-ordinary/) . Annisa Dharma, copywriter & content strategist . Retrieved 2019-11-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "EMMEOTTO" (https://www.emmeotto.net/exhibitions/the%20saints%20are%20coming_e/english.html) . www.emmeotto.net . Retrieved 2020-01-10 . 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Articles relating to walking sticks (/wiki/Walking_stick) , devices used primarily to aid walking (/wiki/Walking) , provide postural stability or support, or assist in maintaining a good posture (/wiki/Good_posture) , but some designs also serve as a fashion accessory (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) , or are used for self-defense (/wiki/Self-defense) . Walking sticks come in many shapes and sizes and some have become collector's items (/wiki/Collectable) . People with disabilities may use some kinds of walking sticks as a crutch (/wiki/Assistive_cane) . The walking stick has also historically been known to be used as a defensive (/wiki/Self-defense) or offensive (/wiki/Assault) weapon (/wiki/Weapon) and may conceal a knife (/wiki/Knife) or sword (/wiki/Sword) – as in a swordstick (/wiki/Swordstick) . NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐5dlnq Cached time: 20240712103903 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.006 seconds Real time usage: 0.009 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 0/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 1/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 0/5000000 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 0.000 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:67432910-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712103903 and revision id 1051661949. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has only the following subcategory. C Croziers (/wiki/Category:Croziers) ‎ (1 C, 2 P) Pages in category "Walking sticks" The following 20 pages are in this category, out of 20 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . Walking stick (/wiki/Walking_stick) A Aaron's rod (/wiki/Aaron%27s_rod) Assistive cane (/wiki/Assistive_cane) B Thomas Brigg & Sons (/wiki/Thomas_Brigg_%26_Sons) C Caduceus (/wiki/Caduceus) Cane gun (/wiki/Cane_gun) G Gupti (/wiki/Gupti) M Makila (/wiki/Makila) Margna (/wiki/Margna) P Pilgrim's staff (/wiki/Pilgrim%27s_staff) R Rod of Asclepius (/wiki/Rod_of_Asclepius) S Sceptre (/wiki/Sceptre) Scout staff (/wiki/Scout_staff) Shikomizue (/wiki/Shikomizue) Staff of Moses (/wiki/Staff_of_Moses) Staff of office (/wiki/Staff_of_office) Swagger stick (/wiki/Swagger_stick) Swordstick (/wiki/Swordstick) T Trekking pole (/wiki/Trekking_pole) W Was-sceptre (/wiki/Was-sceptre) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Walking_sticks&oldid=1051661949 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Walking_sticks&oldid=1051661949) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Fashion accessories (/wiki/Category:Fashion_accessories) Assistive technology (/wiki/Category:Assistive_technology) Walking (/wiki/Category:Walking)
Opera journalist Helena Matheopoulos is a Greek-born, London-based journalist, author, biographer, public speaker and opera specialist. She has worked for a number of high-profile publications including Tatler (/wiki/Tatler) , The Sunday Times (/wiki/The_Sunday_Times) , and Greek Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , as well as writing a number of books mainly on opera, but including a biography of Juan Carlos I of Spain (/wiki/Juan_Carlos_I_of_Spain) . She has also worked in an advisory capacity for the Athens Megaron (/wiki/Athens_Concert_Hall) and the Philharmonia Orchestra (/wiki/Philharmonia_Orchestra) and is often asked to speak publicly on opera and related subjects. Early life and education [ edit ] Helena Matheopoulos was born in Athens (/wiki/Athens) . She went to PIERCE College (/wiki/American_College_of_Greece) in Athens, and gained her Bachelor's and master's degrees in Medieval History from University College London (/wiki/University_College_London) . She has mostly lived in London. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) Journalism [ edit ] Mathepoulos became Fashion Editor at Tatler (/wiki/Tatler) and after three years, moved to The Daily Express (/wiki/The_Daily_Express) for two years. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) Whilst at the Express , she was the fashion journalist selected by the Fashion Museum, Bath (/wiki/Fashion_Museum,_Bath) to choose the defining looks of 1976 for their Dress of the Year (/wiki/Dress_of_the_Year) collection. Declaring the mid-1970s as the "age of Jap," she chose two women's ensembles by Kenzō Takada (/wiki/Kenz%C5%8D_Takada) for his influential label Jungle Jap, and a man's outfit by Fiorucci (/wiki/Fiorucci) . [2] (#cite_note-rl-2) She then moved on to The Evening News (/wiki/The_Evening_News_(London_newspaper)) where she had a regular column for Arts-themed celebrity interviews. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) Matheopoulos also wrote for The Sunday Times (/wiki/The_Sunday_Times) , Gramophone (/wiki/Gramophone_(magazine)) and Opera Now , and between 1992-3, had a Saturday column in The Times (/wiki/The_Times) magazine. She then became International Editor-at-Large for Greek Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) Books [ edit ] Matheopoulos' first book, Maestro: Encounters with Conductors of Today was chosen as the Music Book of the Year 1983 by Stereo Review (/wiki/Stereo_Review) . [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) Her second book, Bravo: Today's Tenors, Baritones and Basses Discuss their Roles , was also published in UK and US editions, and translated into various languages. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) The radio program Live from the Metropolitan Opera (/wiki/Live_from_the_Metropolitan_Opera) chose Bravo as a season prize for winners of their weekly interval quiz in 1986. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) British Book News reviewed Bravo as an "agreeable read," despite occasional moments of carelessness. [3] (#cite_note-3) Diva: Today's Sopranos and Mezzos Discuss their Art (1991) went into three hardback editions and two paperback editions in both the UK and the USA in its year of publication. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) In 1999, the sequel, Diva: The New Generation was reviewed by Classic CD as an example of Matheopoulos' consistently good interview-based writing. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2011 she published Fashion Designers at the Opera , [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) which The Austin Chronicle (/wiki/The_Austin_Chronicle) described as "deliriously lovely." [5] (#cite_note-5) A review in the New York Journal of Books described it as "scholarly yet highly entertaining." [6] (#cite_note-6) Mathepoulos has also written two biographies, including a 1996 life of Juan Carlos I of Spain (/wiki/Juan_Carlos_I_of_Spain) in collaboration with the King. Her second biography of the operatic tenor Plácido Domingo (/wiki/Pl%C3%A1cido_Domingo) was released across eight countries. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) Public speaking and opera advising [ edit ] Matheopoulos has regularly given public speeches on opera related subjects including Maria Callas (/wiki/Maria_Callas) ; Don Giovanni (/wiki/Don_Giovanni) ; and Greek mythology in opera. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) Between 1991 and 1995 she worked for the Athens Megaron (/wiki/Athens_Concert_Hall) as their first Artistic Advisor. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) She then joined the Philharmonia Orchestra (/wiki/Philharmonia_Orchestra) as a Special Advisor for Vocal Projects, before returning to the Athens Megaron as a Resident and Director of the Athens Residency. [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) In 2005, she was made Artistic Administrator of Apollonian Enterprises, a musical event organisers which has set up events such as operatic concerts at the Teatro Dal Verme (/wiki/Teatro_Dal_Verme) and Cadogan Hall (/wiki/Cadogan_Hall) . [1] (#cite_note-bbs-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n "Guest, Helena Matheopoulos on BBS Radio" (https://bbsradio.com/guestson/guest-helena-matheopoulos) . BBS Radio . BBS Radio. ^ (#cite_ref-rl_2-0) Lester, Richard (2013). Dress of the year . Antique Collectors' Club. p. 68. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781851497256 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) British Book News . National Book League. 1986. p. 707. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Classic CD . Unique Communications, Incorporated. 1999. p. 79. ^ (#cite_ref-5) MacMillan Moser, Stephen (7 October 2011). "After a Fashion" (https://www.austinchronicle.com/columns/2011-10-07/after-a-fashion/) . The Austin Chronicle . Retrieved 14 August 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Felner, Jeffrey. "Fashion Designers at the Opera" (http://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/book-review/fashion-designers-opera) . www.nyjournalofbooks.com . Retrieved 14 August 2017 . 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Animal skin treated for human use A hide or skin is an animal skin (/wiki/Skin) treated for human use. The word "hide" is related to the German word Haut , which means skin (/wiki/Skin) . The industry defines hides as "skins" of large animals e.g . cow, buffalo; while skins refer to "skins" of smaller animals: goat (/wiki/Goat) , sheep (/wiki/Sheep) , deer (/wiki/Deer) , pig (/wiki/Pig) , fish (/wiki/Fish) , alligator (/wiki/Alligator) , snake (/wiki/Snake) , etc. Common commercial hides include leather (/wiki/Leather) from cattle (/wiki/Cattle) and other livestock (/wiki/Livestock) animals, buckskin (/wiki/Buckskin_(leather)) , alligator skin (/wiki/Alligator) and snake skin (/wiki/Snake_skin) . All are used for shoes (/wiki/Shoes) , clothes (/wiki/Clothes) , leather bags, belts, or other fashion (/wiki/Fashion) accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) . Leather is also used in cars (/wiki/Car) , upholstery (/wiki/Upholstery) , interior decorating (/wiki/Interior_decorating) , horse tack (/wiki/Horse_tack) and harnesses (/wiki/Horse_harness) . Skins are sometimes still gathered from hunting (/wiki/Hunting) and processed at a domestic or artisanal level but most leather making (/wiki/Leather_making) is now industrialized (/wiki/Industrialization) and large-scale. Various tannins (/wiki/Tannin) are used for this purpose. Hides are also used as processed chews for dogs or other pets. The term "skin" is sometimes expanded to include furs (/wiki/Furs) , which are harvested from various species, including cats (/wiki/Felidae) , mustelids (/wiki/Mustelidae) , and bears (/wiki/Bear) . History [ edit ] Main article: History of hide materials (/wiki/History_of_hide_materials) See also: Fur trade (/wiki/Fur_trade) and Deerskin trade (/wiki/Deerskin_trade) Archaeologists believe that animal hides provided an important source of clothing (/wiki/Clothing) and shelter (/wiki/Hut_(dwelling)) for all prehistoric humans and their use continued among non-agricultural societies into modern times. The Inuit (/wiki/Inuit) , for example, used animal hides for summer tents (/wiki/Tent) , waterproof (/wiki/Waterproof) clothes, and kayaks (/wiki/Kayak) . In early medieval ages (/wiki/Early_Middle_Ages) hides were used to protect wooden castles and defense buildings from setting alight during a siege (/wiki/Siege) . Various American Indian (/wiki/Native_Americans_in_the_United_States) tribes used hides in the construction of tepees (/wiki/Tepee) and wigwams (/wiki/Wigwam) , moccasins (/wiki/Moccasins) , and buckskins (/wiki/Buckskin_(leather)) . They were sometimes used as window (/wiki/Window) coverings. Until the invention of plastic (/wiki/Plastic) drum heads (/wiki/Drum_head) in the 1950s, animal hides or metal (/wiki/Metal) was used. Parchment (/wiki/Parchment) and vellum (/wiki/Vellum) —a kind of paper (/wiki/Paper) made from processed skins—was introduced to the Eastern Mediterranean during the Iron Age (/wiki/Iron_Age) , supposedly at Pergamon (/wiki/Pergamon) . The Assize of Weights and Measures (/wiki/Assize_of_Weights_and_Measures) —one of the statutes of uncertain date (/wiki/Statutes_of_uncertain_date) from c. 1300 —mentions rawhide (/wiki/Rawhide_(textile)) , gloves (/wiki/Glove) , parchment (/wiki/Parchment) , and vellum (/wiki/Vellum) among the principal items of England (/wiki/Kingdom_of_England) 's commerce. A standardized shipload of leather (a last (/wiki/Last_(unit)) ) consisted of 20 dicker (/w/index.php?title=Dicker_(unit)&action=edit&redlink=1) of 10 cowhides. Rabbit (/wiki/European_rabbit) and squirrel (/wiki/Gray_squirrel) skins were traded and taxed in timbers (/w/index.php?title=Timber_(unit)&action=edit&redlink=1) of 40 hides each. Skins were also traded in binds (/w/index.php?title=Bind_(unit)&action=edit&redlink=1) of 32 or 33 skins each, while gloves were sold in dickers of 10 pair and dozens of 12 pair. The parchment and vellum was traded based on dozens of the original sheepskins (/wiki/Sheepskin) from which they were prepared. [1] (#cite_note-tract-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Rare furs have been a notable status symbol (/wiki/Status_symbol) throughout history. Ermine (/wiki/Stoat) fur was particularly associated with European nobility, with the black-tipped tails arranged around the edges of the robes to produce a pattern of black diamonds on a white field. Demand for beaver (/wiki/Beaver) hats (/wiki/Hat) in the 17th and 18th century drove some of the initial exploration of North America (/wiki/North_America) , particularly in Canada (/wiki/Canada) , and even prompted wars among native tribes competing for the most productive areas. Natural leather continues to be used for many expensive products from limousine (/wiki/Limousine) upholstery to designer cellular phone (/wiki/Cellular_phone) cases. There are, however, many forms of artificial leather (/wiki/Artificial_leather) and fur now available, which are usually cheaper alternatives. Production [ edit ] Fresh tanned leather Finishgrading leather Animal hides and skins are usually processed fresh or salted and tanned. Skins sometimes are stretched, dried, and tanned. Most hides are processed from domesticated animals; the most common wild animals used for fur (/wiki/Fur) — mink (/wiki/Mink) and rabbit (/wiki/Rabbit) —are similarly raised in captivity and farmed. Some others—including lynx (/wiki/Lynx) and wolves (/wiki/Wolves) [ citation needed ] —are still trapped (/wiki/Trapping_(Animal)) in the wild for their fur. Use [ edit ] Currently, hides are mainly used for footwear (/wiki/Footwear) , upholstery (/wiki/Upholstery) , leather goods; skins are used for clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , particularly as coats (/wiki/Coat_(clothing)) , gloves (/wiki/Glove) , leather goods and footwear (/wiki/Footwear) . It is also used for bookbinding (/wiki/Bookbinding) . Many traditional drums (/wiki/Drum) , especially hand drums (/wiki/Hand_drum) like the pandeiro (/wiki/Pandeiro) , continue to be made using natural skins. The alligator drum (/wiki/Alligator_drum) was formerly important in Chinese music (/wiki/Chinese_music) . The Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_music) sanxian (/wiki/Sanxian) and Okinawan (/wiki/Ryukyuan_music) sanshin (/wiki/Sanshin) are usually prepared from snakeskin (/wiki/Snakeskin) , while their Japanese (/wiki/Japanese_music) equivalent, the shamisen (/wiki/Shamisen) , is made from dogskin (/wiki/Dog) in the case of students and catskin (/wiki/Cat) in the case of professional players. The African-American (/wiki/African-Americans) banjo (/wiki/Banjo) was originally made from skins but is now often synthetic. "Hides" is used as a slang term to refer to a drumset. [3] (#cite_note-3) Kangaroo leather (/wiki/Kangaroo_leather) is the most common material for the construction of bullwhips (/wiki/Bullwhip) . Stingray (/wiki/Stingray) rawhide is a common material for the grips of Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_swords) , Japanese (/wiki/Japanese_swords) , and Scottish swords (/wiki/Scottish_sword) . Pig (/wiki/Pig) skins are processed as pork rinds (/wiki/Pork_rind) . Rabbit (/wiki/Rabbit) fur is popular for hats, coats, and glove linings. Controversy [ edit ] Animal rights (/wiki/Animal_rights) activists generally protest the use of animal hides for human clothing. Forms of protest range from PETA (/wiki/PETA) 's "I would rather go naked than wear fur" campaign, although more shocking and direct action, like damaging furs with red paint (/wiki/Paint) in imitation of blood (/wiki/Blood) , has been toned down, like the "Ink, not Mink" campaign. Roadblocking and break-ins against meat/fur/leather industry is also used and extends to personal campaigns against such companies and also hunters which have included arson and assault in some cases. See also [ edit ] Alligator hunting (/wiki/Alligator_hunting) Bating (leather) (/wiki/Bating_(leather)) Buckskin (/wiki/Buckskin_(textile)) (usually from deer (/wiki/Deer) ) Calfskin (/wiki/Calfskin) Caribou (/wiki/Caribou) Crocodile farming (/wiki/Crocodile_farming) Deerskin (/wiki/Deerskin) Fish leather (/wiki/Fish_leather) Goatskin (/wiki/Goatskin_(material)) Leather (/wiki/Leather) Ostrich leather (/wiki/Ostrich_leather) Rawhide (/wiki/Rawhide_(textile)) (usually from cattle (/wiki/Cattle) ) Snakeskin (/wiki/Snakeskin) Taxidermy (/wiki/Taxidermy) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-tract_1-0) Ruffhead, Owen (/wiki/Owen_Ruffhead) , ed. (1763a), The Statutes at Large , vol.  I: From Magna Charta to the End of the Reign of King Henry the Sixth. To which is prefixed, A Table of the Titles of all the Publick and Private Statutes during that Time, London: Mark Basket for the Crown, pp. 148–149 (https://books.google.com/books?id=tKZFAAAAcAAJ&pg=PA148) . (in English) & (in Latin) & (in Norman) ^ (#cite_ref-2) Statutes of the Realm , vol. I, London: G. Eyre & A. Strahan, 1810, p. 204 ^ (#cite_ref-3) Sadie, Stanley (/wiki/Stanley_Sadie) ; Tyrrell, John (/wiki/John_Tyrrell_(musicologist)) , eds. (2001). "Hides". The New Grove Dictionary of Music and Musicians (/wiki/The_New_Grove_Dictionary_of_Music_and_Musicians) (2nd ed.). London: Macmillan Publishers (/wiki/Macmillan_Publishers) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-56159-239-5 . ‎ [ full citation needed ] External links [ edit ] Media related to Hides (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Hides) at Wikimedia Commons v t e Leather (/wiki/Leather) Types Aniline (/wiki/Aniline_leather) Bicast (/wiki/Bicast_leather) Boiled (/wiki/Boiled_leather) Bonded (/wiki/Bonded_leather) Buckskin (/wiki/Buckskin_(leather)) Chamois (/wiki/Chamois_leather) Corinthian (/wiki/Corinthian_leather) Kidskin (/wiki/Kidskin) Law leather (/wiki/Law_leather) Morocco (/wiki/Morocco_leather) Napa (/wiki/Napa_leather) Nubuck (/wiki/Nubuck) Patent (/wiki/Patent_leather) Russia (/wiki/Russia_leather) Shagreen (/wiki/Shagreen) Shearling (/wiki/Shearling) Shell cordovan (/wiki/Shell_cordovan) Suede (/wiki/Suede) Leather sources Alligator (/wiki/Alligator_leather) Bison (/wiki/Bison) Cattle (/wiki/Cattle) Calfskin (/wiki/Calfskin) Slunk (/wiki/Slunk) Crocodile (/wiki/Crocodile_skin) Deer (/wiki/Deer) Eel (/wiki/Pacific_hagfish) Goat (/wiki/Goat) Horse (/wiki/Horse) Kangaroo (/wiki/Kangaroo_leather) Ostrich (/wiki/Ostrich_leather) Pig (/wiki/Pig) Seal (/wiki/Sealskin) Sheep (/wiki/Sheepskin) Snake (/wiki/Snakeskin) Yak (/wiki/Yak) Processes (/wiki/Leather_production_processes) Liming (/wiki/Liming_(leather_processing)) Deliming (/wiki/Deliming) Bating (/wiki/Bating_(leather)) Tanning (/wiki/Tanning_(leather)) Oiling (/wiki/Oiling_(leather_processing)) Crafting (/wiki/Leather_crafting) Bookbinding (/wiki/Bookbinding) Cuir de Cordoue (/wiki/Cuir_de_Cordoue) Leather carving (/wiki/Leather_carving) Substitutes Artificial leather / Leatherette (/wiki/Artificial_leather) Kirza (/wiki/Kirza) Naugahyde (/wiki/Naugahyde) Presstoff (/wiki/Presstoff) Ultrasuede (/wiki/Ultrasuede) Alcantara (/wiki/Alcantara_(material)) Clarino (/wiki/Clarino) Leather museums German Leather Museum (/wiki/German_Leather_Museum) Igualada Leather Museum (/wiki/Igualada_Leather_Museum) Walsall Leather Museum (/wiki/Walsall_Leather_Museum) Leather Archives and Museum (/wiki/Leather_Archives_and_Museum) British Museum leather dressing (/wiki/British_Museum_leather_dressing) Related History of hide materials (/wiki/History_of_hide_materials) Leather subculture (/wiki/Leather_subculture) Rawhide (/wiki/Rawhide_(material)) v t e Clothing materials and parts Garment structures Armscye (/wiki/Armscye) Collar (/wiki/Collar_(clothing)) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Collar stays (/wiki/Collar_stays) Detachable collar (/wiki/Detachable_collar) Cuff (/wiki/Cuff) Dart (/wiki/Dart_(sewing)) Facing (/wiki/Facing_(sewing)) Fly (/wiki/Fly_(clothing)) Lapel (/wiki/Lapel) Gore (/wiki/Gore_(segment)) Hem (/wiki/Hem) Lining (/wiki/Lining_(sewing)) Placket (/wiki/Placket) Pleat (/wiki/Pleat) Pocket (/wiki/Pocket) Revers (/wiki/Revers) Ruffle (/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)) Shoulder pad (/wiki/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)) Strap (/wiki/Shoulder_strap) Sleeve (/wiki/Sleeve) Train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) Waistband (/wiki/Waistband) Yoke (/wiki/Yoke_(clothing)) Textiles (/wiki/Textile) Natural Cotton (/wiki/Cotton) Fur (/wiki/Fur_clothing) Linen (/wiki/Linen) Silk (/wiki/Silk) Wool (/wiki/Wool) Synthetic Artificial leather (/wiki/Artificial_leather) Elastic (/wiki/Elastomer) Nylon (/wiki/Nylon) Polyester (/wiki/Polyester) Rayon (/wiki/Rayon) Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) Animal hides / leather (/wiki/Leather) Calf (/wiki/Calfskin) Deer (/wiki/Buckskin_(leather)) Goat (/wiki/Goatskin_(material)) Kangaroo (/wiki/Kangaroo_leather) Ostrich (/wiki/Ostrich_leather) Seal (/wiki/Sealskin) Sheep (/wiki/Sheepskin) Snake (/wiki/Snakeskin) Stingray (/wiki/Shagreen) Fasteners (/wiki/Fastener) Back closure (/wiki/Back_closure) Belt hook (/wiki/Belt_hook) Buckle (/wiki/Buckle) Button (/wiki/Button) Buttonhole (/wiki/Buttonhole) Frog (/wiki/Frog_(fastening)) Shank (/wiki/Shank_(sewing)) Hook-and-eye (/wiki/Hook-and-eye_closure) Hook-and-loop (/wiki/Hook-and-loop_fastener) Velcro (/wiki/Velcro) Snap (/wiki/Snap_fastener) Zipper (/wiki/Zipper) Seams (/wiki/Seam_(sewing)) Neckline (/wiki/Neckline) Bustline (/wiki/Bustline) Waistline (/wiki/Waistline_(clothing)) Hemline (/wiki/Hemline) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : National France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb11950678g) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb11950678g) Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007558040805171) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/sh85060632) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐c2962 Cached time: 20240719062546 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.490 seconds Real time usage: 0.629 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1619/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 42556/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2350/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 10/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hide_(skin)&oldid=1213865314 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hide_(skin)&oldid=1213865314) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Hides (skin) (/wiki/Category:Hides_(skin)) Nonwoven fabrics (/wiki/Category:Nonwoven_fabrics) Hidden categories: CS1: long volume value (/wiki/Category:CS1:_long_volume_value) Articles with Latin-language sources (la) (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_Latin-language_sources_(la)) Articles with Norman-language sources (nrf) (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_Norman-language_sources_(nrf)) Wikipedia articles incorporating the Cite Grove template (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_articles_incorporating_the_Cite_Grove_template) Wikipedia articles incorporating the Cite Grove template without a link parameter (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_articles_incorporating_the_Cite_Grove_template_without_a_link_parameter) All articles with incomplete citations (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_incomplete_citations) Articles with incomplete citations from July 2020 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_incomplete_citations_from_July_2020) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Articles containing German-language text (/wiki/Category:Articles_containing_German-language_text) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from April 2015 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_April_2015) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata) Articles with BNF identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_BNF_identifiers) Articles with BNFdata identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_BNFdata_identifiers) Articles with J9U identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_J9U_identifiers) Articles with LCCN identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_LCCN_identifiers)
This article is about crocodile skin within fashion. For (animal), see crocodile (/wiki/Crocodile) . Skin of a live crocodile or a leather made from dead crocodile hide Crocodile skin either refers to the skin (/wiki/Skin) of a live crocodile or a leather made from dead crocodile hide (/wiki/Hide_(skin)) . It has multiple applications across the fashion industry such as use for bags, shoes, and upholstery after being farmed and treated in specialist farms and tanneries. Taxidermied (/wiki/Taxidermy) skin of Lolong (/wiki/Lolong) , coined as the largest crocodile in captivity by Guinness World Records (/wiki/Guinness_World_Records) , at Philippine National Museum Crocodile leather [ edit ] Main article: Leather (/wiki/Leather) Crocodile leather is the processed hide of one of 23 crocodile species in the world. [1] (#cite_note-1) Crocodile leather is an exotic leather (/wiki/Exotic_leather) which as a group, makes up less than 1% of the world's leather production. [2] (#cite_note-:82-2) It is rare compared to other hides such as sheep or cow and requires high levels of craftsmanship to prepare it for use in the consumer industry. [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) Crocodile leather is considered a luxury item utilized by high fashion brands such as Hermes, Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) and Gucci. [4] (#cite_note-Daneshku-4) As a material, crocodile leather is rare and expensive because of limited numbers of crocodiles, their relatively small size and the scarcity of dependable farms and tanning facilities to process and prepare the product for market. [4] (#cite_note-Daneshku-4) Red Crocodile Kelly Bag Applications and Uses [ edit ] Crocodile skin is primarily used in the production of handbags and other luxury items such as shoes, belts, wallets, upholstery, and furniture. For these products, Freshwater (/wiki/Freshwater_crocodile) , Saltwater (/wiki/Saltwater_crocodile) , Nile (/wiki/Nile_crocodile) and Caiman (/wiki/Caiman_crocodilus) are used because of the superior quality of skin which when tanned has an aesthetic finish. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) Not all these skins are valued the same. As one of the largest crocodile species, the Australian Saltwater Crocodile has a reputation for having the most desirable and high-quality hide. This makes it more popular than the smaller Caiman skins which, as a more common species, is a cheaper option. [6] (#cite_note-:10-6) The value of a skin is dependent on what it will be used for. Freshwater Crocodile, particularly from New Guinea, is known for its flexibility which allows processors to skive it down to a thinness suitable for clothing whereas Nile crocodile, mostly available across Africa, [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) is durable, making it desirable for heavy-duty items such as footwear and belts. [7] (#cite_note-:3-7) Farming [ edit ] Main article: Crocodile farm (/wiki/Crocodile_farm) Crocodiles are either farmed or wild-caught. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) In Northern and Western Australia crocodile farms carry out ranching which includes captive breeding (/wiki/Captive_breeding) and harvesting of eggs from the wild. Eggs are collected and landowners sell the eggs to local farms to breed. [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) In 2018 this method also became legal in Queensland. [10] (#cite_note-10) [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) On a crocodile farm, crocodiles are grown and prepared for slaughter before their skin is removed, treated, and sent to be tanned in specialist tanneries and used in the manufacture of commercial goods. Ranching - this is the collection of wild eggs. [6] (#cite_note-:10-6) Collection usually occurs in February and March. [11] (#cite_note-11) Hatching - the eggs are incubated and protected to ensure the highest yield. [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) Growth - the crocodiles are grown to certain sizes dependent on what the skin will be used for. For example, most bags will require a 40 cm belly skin which will require a crocodile of generally 1.5 years old or 1.2 m long. The requirements vary depending on what is fashionable at the time, for example, if there is a trend for small handbags then a farm will reduce the growth stage and instigate slaughter earlier as smaller skins are required by the fashion industry. It is a case of supply and demand; if crocodile skin suits are "in fashion" then crocodile farmers will need to provide the fashion industry will larger skins suitable for such production. [12] (#cite_note-:5-12) [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) Stunning - Once the crocodiles have reached the desired size, the crocodile is stunned with a rod and its eyes are covered to calm it. [13] (#cite_note-13) They are then sent to abattoirs where skins and meat are removed for sale. [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) Slaughter - Humane slaughter is carried out by the severing of the spinal cord. [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) Disinfection - According to food-safety guidelines the skin is disinfected. Chilling - Before skinning the carcass is left in a cold room bleed. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) This often takes place overnight. [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) Skinning - Skin is carefully removed. Meat Processing - meat is removed and packaged according to food safety requirements. Skin Processing - the processing of the removed skin involves short and long term preservation, grading and measurement and storage until dispatch. [12] (#cite_note-:5-12) [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) The main farm income is in crocodile skin for the fashion industry. [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) It is important the skin is of good quality to achieve the highest revenue possible. Preservation is essential as quality of skin reduces substantially in warm conditions where the farms tend to be situated. [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) To add value to skins, some farms include fleshing at the stage of short term preservation. Fleshing is usually carried out by tanners and is the trimming, scraping and removal of remaining muscle tissue using sharp equipment and high power water jets. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) It is often considered risky for farms to complete the fleshing process as the skin may be damaged, a costly mistake. 1 skin costs $12 in labor, not including operating or capital costs. Therefore, fleshing is usually carried out by tanners. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) Value, quality and measurements [ edit ] The skin is the most valuable part of a crocodile, followed by the meat and other body parts such as teeth. [12] (#cite_note-:5-12) Value is decided in two ways: size and grade. Greater width increases the value of the skin and is measured across the third raised scute (/wiki/Scute) . The grade is measured on a scale of damage to the skin and value is deducted by 25% at each level. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) Therefore, skin value can drop significantly if the quality is not maintained by careful handling. The value of first-grade skin per cm is $9 (USA), a 40 cm of skin therefore costs $360. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) For every imperfection, value decreases which is why crocodile farmers take precautionary measures such as covering corners of enclosures with plastic, to keep their crocodiles in good condition. [15] (#cite_note-:11-15) Crocodiles are put into smaller groups to prevent fights and spread of infections are known to lead to scarring and damage of skin which will affect the value of leather. [16] (#cite_note-16) [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) The value of a skin is dependent on how much it is desired by fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) , Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) and Hermes (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) . [15] (#cite_note-:11-15) Premium skins are usually transported to countries such as France, Italy and the United States of America where the most reputable tanneries treat the skins according to the designer's wishes and make them ready for manufacture into commercial goods such as bags (/wiki/Bag) , shoes (/wiki/Shoe) and accessories. [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) In Australia, (both a producer and manufacturer of crocodile hide) businesses like Di Croco offer custom products to customers and also use lesser skins and by-products to minimize waste. [12] (#cite_note-:5-12) [17] (#cite_note-17) Quality can be improved up to the point of slaughter and from here only maintained or reduced. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) Skin must be preserved carefully as after slaughter there is a loss of immune response and it becomes susceptible to microbial contamination such as scale slip, staining and discoloration [15] (#cite_note-:11-15) and biological damage, e.g. bacterial or fungal infection. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) In short term preservation, a 60% brine solution is used for up to five days. In long term preservation, a commercial biocide is required which allows the skin to be kept for up to four months. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) [18] (#cite_note-18) The skins are kept in sealed individual bags, though not vacuum packed, to minimize exposure, prevent creasing and simplify handling. Farmers and tanners use specific methods of folding or rolling skins to prevent creases forming across the scales. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) The rough-textured scutes of crocodile hide present in the back cut. There are 2 main cuts of crocodile skin: Back Cut - Scaly cut with a rough texture and mainly used in trimmings. Belly Cut - Highly popular cut due to smooth texture and close, small scale structure which makes it pliable and suitable for many items such as handbags and clothing. [2] (#cite_note-:82-2) The largest width of the belly is measured to gauge the value of the hide. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) When designers are purchasing crocodile leather, they must take into consideration the measurements are for the overall size of the hide and not a pattern width. As a result, it can take several skins to produce a single item. [19] (#cite_note-:12-19) Treatment after Farming and Production [ edit ] Development programs were set up to support the growth of crocodile populations during harvest in the 1960s and 1970s in the Americas and Rhodesia. [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) Papua New Guinea put similar management programs in place which made the trading of crocodile skin economically and commercially viable as it prevented over hunting and depletion in numbers. Maintenance of these farms relies on skin-producing countries to export their products elsewhere for tanning and manufacture. [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) Often, it is impossible to tell if a skin has been preserved adequately until after tanning as there may be no signs of biological damage. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) A damaged skin resulting in a dull, discolored or scuffed finish which ultimately devalues the leather. [20] (#cite_note-:9-20) Australian Saltwater Crocodile is one of the most sought after skins because it is flexible which makes it good for handbag production. [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) Bonier hides of Caiman crocodiles are more difficult to dye and work with, making them a less popular option. For items such as bags, suits or trousers, large panels of skin are required. [2] (#cite_note-:82-2) With large areas of leather on display, damaged leather is obvious which is why cautions are taken to ensure high-grade skins come out of the crocodile farms. Small bags require a hide of 30 to 34  cm. Larger bags need skins of 40 to 50 cm. [19] (#cite_note-:12-19) Manufacturers should use the maximum amount of hide to avoid waste. Scraps are used for straps, gussets and interior details. [21] (#cite_note-:13-21) It is necessary for the designer to mark the skin with preparatory sewing lines using a rotatory tool to thin the line where the stitches will run. This reduces the risk of the needle hitting calcium deposits which may break the needle. [21] (#cite_note-:13-21) [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) It takes an average of two artisan days to make a crocodile skin handbag. Timing depends on the glazing technique used on the hide as certain glazes affect the pliability of the leather, making it stiffer and prone to cracking. [19] (#cite_note-:12-19) Longer, more complicated process is required when the leather has been treated like this as the leather cannot be turned inside out in the traditional way. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) Legalities [ edit ] The crocodile skin trade is legally complicated because it is important that the leather is sourced reliably from farms where crocodiles are treated in humane conditions. Unregulated commercial hunting has resulted in a decline of many crocodile populations so governments have put protection over many reptiles. [7] (#cite_note-:3-7) CITES (/wiki/CITES) is an international agreement between 164 countries to protect endangered species from extinction. Established in 1973, it stands for "Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora". [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) Legally imported crocodile skin must come from reputable farms with CITES certification to prove legal possession. Any uncertificated skins are confiscated by customs and sale of an inherited (pre-CITES) or illegally imported skin is a criminal offense. [3] (#cite_note-:6-3) The laws on crocodile trade are different around the world. In America, it is legal to import sustainably sourced crocodile leather as long as it complies with the restrictions imposed by CITES. [7] (#cite_note-:3-7) Crocodile leather trade for Freshwater Siamese Crocodile (/wiki/Siamese_crocodile) with Thailand, Vietnam or Cambodia is forbidden even if the skin is accompanied by a CITES certificate. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) In certain cases, illegal trade occurs when buyers are unaware of restrictions so companies or businesses purchasing crocodile hide must be sure of the origin of the skin they are purchasing. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) Trade [ edit ] Crocodile leather trade was established in the Caribbean, Mexico and Central America when it became a popular material in the 1800s. [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) Since then, demand for skins has increased to the extent that hunting and production spread to Africa, Asia and Australia, where the majority of crocodile skins are sustainably sourced today. [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) In the Northern Territory, crocodile farms generate $107 million per year. This is a crucial form of income for a community lacking viable industry. [20] (#cite_note-:9-20) Crocodile farming is valued as providing 264 jobs (2017) as well as encouraging harmony within communities with Indigenous and local people who carry out egg hunting and crocodile rearing. [22] (#cite_note-22) Crocodile farming is not limited to the production of skins for the fashion industry. Tourism and on-farm breeding help maintain the state of farms and educate the public about the role of crocodile farming in certain communities. In the Northern Territory tourists can visit Crocodylus Park [23] (#cite_note-23) and Crocosaurus Cove (/wiki/Crocosaurus_Cove) [24] (#cite_note-24) to learn about the crocodiles and the trade. [12] (#cite_note-:5-12) Conservation [ edit ] Further information: List of critically endangered reptiles (/wiki/List_of_critically_endangered_reptiles) Within certain societies, the crocodile trade is extremely important. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) In 1945 - 1971 Northern Australians generated significant income at the expense of the crocodile as uncontrolled trade severely impacted on the populations of both saltwater and freshwater crocodiles. [25] (#cite_note-25) Full protection over the Australian Saltwater Crocodile was established in 1971 to allow the species to recover. [26] (#cite_note-:22-26) When crocodile numbers increased, co-habitation with local people became a problem, and fatal and non-fatal attacks on people and fishing boats were reported in 1979/1980. In response, the Northern Territory established an 'incentive-driven conservation strategy' [26] (#cite_note-:22-26) which encouraged people to protect crocodiles through commercial activity such as farming, tourism, and ranching. [27] (#cite_note-:2-27) The Saltwater Crocodiles are seen as a commercial resource by communities who generate wealth and employment through the crocodile industry. [28] (#cite_note-28) This also promotes crocodile conservation which would otherwise be difficult because of their predatory nature. [27] (#cite_note-:2-27) [29] (#cite_note-29) Brands who use crocodile skins are encouraged to support conservation efforts. Australian brand Croc Stock and Barra use unwanted sections of skin to handcraft luxury items and ensure waste is limited. [30] (#cite_note-30) Other brands such as Roje Exotics American Leathers claim to use leather that is the byproduct of the international exotic cuisine industry which also ensures fewer skins are wasted within the system. [31] (#cite_note-31) Animal Welfare [ edit ] Main article: animal welfare (/wiki/Animal_welfare) The Management Program within the Northern Territory maintains that the crocodiles are farmed in a humane way. It makes assessments on farming limits and population dynamics to ensure the numbers of Saltwater Crocodile are maintained and never reach the lows of 1972 again. [27] (#cite_note-:2-27) See also [ edit ] Australia portal (/wiki/Portal:Australia) Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Crocodile industry (/w/index.php?title=Crocodile_industry&action=edit&redlink=1) Kangaroo industry (/wiki/Kangaroo_industry) Alligator leather (/wiki/Alligator_leather) Bibliography [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) CrocoWorld. "Crocodile Species" (https://www.crocoworld.com/crocodile-species/) . Crocodile Facts and Information . Retrieved 2019-05-11 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Exotic leather - www.leather-dictionary.com - The Leather Dictionary" (https://www.leather-dictionary.com/index.php/Exotic_leather) . www.leather-dictionary.com . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i Goulding, Riedel, Bevan, Warfield, Brendan, Elysa, Andrea, Bronwyn (June 2007). Export Markets for Skins and Leather for Australia’s camel, crocodile, emu and goat industries. A report for the Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation. Australia: Australian Government, Rural Industries Research, and Development Corporation. pp. 15-32. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1 74151 486 X (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1%2B74151%2B486%2BX) ^ Jump up to: a b Daneshkhu, Scheherazade (2013-05-26). "Luxury race to bag the best skins" (https://www.ft.com/content/ed5824f8-c133-11e2-9767-00144feab7de) . Financial Times . Retrieved 2019-05-11 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "About Crocodile Leather | Crocodile Leather - Luxury Grade Wholesale Crocodile Hides" (http://www.crocodileleather.net/about-crocodile-leather/) . 28 May 2009 . Retrieved 2019-05-11 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hawkins, Huynh, Stephen, Chi (December 2004). Improved Preservation and early-stage processing of Australian Crocodile Skins. Australia: Australian Government, Rural Industries Research and Development Cooperation. pp.3-35 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1741510732 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1741510732) ^ Jump up to: a b c Thorbjarnarson, John (June 1999). "Crocodile Tears and Skins: International Trade, Economic Constraints, and Limits to the Sustainable Use of Crocodilians". Conservation Biology . 13 (3): 465–470. Bibcode (/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)) : 1999ConBi..13..465T (https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1999ConBi..13..465T) . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1046/j.1523-1739.1999.00011.x (https://doi.org/10.1046%2Fj.1523-1739.1999.00011.x) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 83775178 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:83775178) – via JSTOR. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o Hawkins, Huynh, Stephen, Chi (December 2004). Improved Preservation and early stage processing of Australian Crocodile Skins. Australia: Australian Government, Rural Industries Research and Development Cooperation. pp. 5-34 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1741510732 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1741510732) ^ Jump up to: a b c "Banning exotic leather in fashion hurts snakes and crocodiles in the long run" (https://phys.org/news/2019-03-exotic-leather-fashion-snakes-crocodiles.html) . phys.org . Retrieved 2019-05-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Science, jurisdiction=Queensland; sector=government; corporateName=Department of Environment and (2018-09-21). "Crocodile egg harvesting" (https://environment.des.qld.gov.au/wildlife/livingwith/crocodiles/egg-harvest/) . Department of Environment and Science . Retrieved 2019-08-13 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Saltwater Crocodiles - It's breeding time in the Top End" (http://www.crocosauruscove.com/saltwater-crocodiles-its-breeding-time/) . Croc Cove . 2013-12-18 . Retrieved 2019-05-13 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Ernst & Young, Northern Territory Crocodile Industry Economic Contribution Analysis (2017). Final Report: Economic Value of the Crocodile Farming Industry to the Northern Territory. Australia: Ernst & Young. pp.1-43. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Dias, Avani (2018-05-28). "Take a rare look inside the Top End's lucrative crocodile industry" (https://www.abc.net.au/triplej/programs/hack/top-end-crocodile-industry-leather-meat/9801626) . triple j . Retrieved 2019-05-12 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Thorbjarnarson, John (1999). "Crocodile Tears and Skins: International Trade, Economic Constraints, and Limits to the Sustainable Use of Crocodilians". Conservation Biology . 13 (3): 465–470. Bibcode (/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)) : 1999ConBi..13..465T (https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1999ConBi..13..465T) . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1046/j.1523-1739.1999.00011.x (https://doi.org/10.1046%2Fj.1523-1739.1999.00011.x) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0888-8892 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0888-8892) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 2641860 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/2641860) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 83775178 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:83775178) . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Skin in the fashion game" (https://www.theaustralian.com.au/weekend-australian-magazine/saltwater-crocodiles-high-fashion-meets-evolutionary-design/news-story/5dd554716513843885959a63afb150f0) . www.theaustralian.com.au . 2015-07-10 . Retrieved 2019-05-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Skin in the fashion game" (https://www.theaustralian.com.au/weekend-australian-magazine/saltwater-crocodiles-high-fashion-meets-evolutionary-design/news-story/5dd554716513843885959a63afb150f0) . www.theaustralian.com.au . 2015-07-10 . Retrieved 2019-05-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Welcome to the di CROCO Boutique" (http://dicroco.com/) . di CROCO . Retrieved 2019-05-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "How To Tan an alligator Hide" (https://alligatorhuntingequipment.com/tan.html) . alligatorhuntingequipment.com . Retrieved 2019-05-13 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Roje Workshop - Designer Exotic Leather Handbags and Furniture" (http://workshop.rojeleather.com/) . workshop.rojeleather.com . Retrieved 2019-05-13 . ^ Jump up to: a b Dias, Avani (2018-05-28). "Take a rare look inside the Top End's lucrative crocodile industry" (https://www.abc.net.au/triplej/programs/hack/top-end-crocodile-industry-leather-meat/9801626) . triple j . Retrieved 2019-05-11 . ^ Jump up to: a b Mendal, Mark. "4 Tips for Making Crocodile Skin Handbags" (http://www.panamleathers.com/blog/bid/356576/4-Tips-for-Making-Crocodile-Skin-Handbags) . www.panamleathers.com . Retrieved 2019-05-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Vanovac, Neda (2017-07-27). "NT croc industry valued at over $100m, four times previous estimates" (https://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-07-27/nt-crocodile-industry-worth-100m-four-times-previous-estimates/8748192) . ABC News . Retrieved 2019-05-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Crocodylus Park" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190313232323/http://crocodyluspark.com.au/) . www.crocodyluspark.com.au . Archived from the original (https://www.crocodyluspark.com.au/) on 2019-03-13 . Retrieved 2019-05-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Cage of Death |" (http://www.crocosauruscove.com/cage-of-death/) . Croc Cove . Retrieved 2019-05-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Crocodile hunting" (https://www.qhatlas.com.au/crocodile-hunting) . Queensland Historical Atlas . Retrieved 2019-08-13 . ^ Jump up to: a b Parks and Wildlife Service of the Northern Territory (2012–2014). Management Program for the saltwater crocodile in the Northern Territory of Australia 2012-2014. Australia: Northern Territory Government, department of natural resources, environment, the arts, and sport. pp. 1-62. ^ Jump up to: a b c Parks and Wildlife Service of the Northern Territory (2012–2014). Management Program for the saltwater crocodile in the Northern Territory of Australia 2012-2014. Australia: Northern Territory Government, the department of natural resources, environment, the arts, and sport. pp. 18-36. ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Tropical Australia's Crocodile Entrepreneurs | Environment & Society Portal" (http://www.environmentandsociety.org/arcadia/tropical-australias-crocodile-entrepreneurs) . www.environmentandsociety.org . 7 February 2019 . Retrieved 2019-08-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Inside the Rugged Lives of Crocodile Hunters" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170906113308/http://www.nationalgeographic.com/photography/proof/2017/08/crocodile-hunter-conservation-frost-photos/) . Photography . 2017-08-31. Archived from the original (https://www.nationalgeographic.com/photography/proof/2017/08/crocodile-hunter-conservation-frost-photos/) on September 6, 2017 . Retrieved 2019-05-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "About us | Croc Stock and Barra Leather Products" (https://crocstockandbarra.com/pages/about-us) . Croc Stock and Barra . Retrieved 2019-05-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "About" (http://workshop.rojeleather.com/about/) . workshop.rojeleather.com . Retrieved 2019-05-12 . v t e Related articles on alligators (/wiki/Alligator) , caimans (/wiki/Caiman) , crocodiles (/wiki/Crocodile) and gharials (/wiki/Gharial) Topics Crocodilian armor (/wiki/Crocodilian_armor) Foramen of Panizza (/wiki/Foramen_of_Panizza) Gastralium (/wiki/Gastralium) List of crurotarsan genera (/wiki/List_of_crurotarsan_genera) Madras Crocodile Bank Trust (/wiki/Madras_Crocodile_Bank_Trust) The Croc Festival (/wiki/The_Croc_Festival) Human interaction Fatal alligator attacks (/wiki/List_of_fatal_alligator_attacks_in_the_United_States) Crocodile attacks (/wiki/Crocodile_attack) Crocodile farm (/wiki/Crocodile_farm) Crocodile tears (/wiki/Crocodile_tears) Famous crocodiles and alligators (/wiki/Category:Individual_crocodilians) Sewer alligator (/wiki/Sewer_alligator) v t e Leather (/wiki/Leather) Types Aniline (/wiki/Aniline_leather) Bicast (/wiki/Bicast_leather) Boiled (/wiki/Boiled_leather) Bonded (/wiki/Bonded_leather) Buckskin (/wiki/Buckskin_(leather)) Chamois (/wiki/Chamois_leather) Corinthian (/wiki/Corinthian_leather) Kidskin (/wiki/Kidskin) Law leather (/wiki/Law_leather) Morocco (/wiki/Morocco_leather) Napa (/wiki/Napa_leather) Nubuck (/wiki/Nubuck) Patent (/wiki/Patent_leather) Russia (/wiki/Russia_leather) Shagreen (/wiki/Shagreen) Shearling (/wiki/Shearling) Shell cordovan (/wiki/Shell_cordovan) Suede (/wiki/Suede) Leather sources Alligator (/wiki/Alligator_leather) Bison (/wiki/Bison) Cattle (/wiki/Cattle) Calfskin (/wiki/Calfskin) Slunk (/wiki/Slunk) Crocodile Deer (/wiki/Deer) Eel (/wiki/Pacific_hagfish) Goat (/wiki/Goat) Horse (/wiki/Horse) Kangaroo (/wiki/Kangaroo_leather) Ostrich (/wiki/Ostrich_leather) Pig (/wiki/Pig) Seal (/wiki/Sealskin) Sheep (/wiki/Sheepskin) Snake (/wiki/Snakeskin) Yak (/wiki/Yak) Processes (/wiki/Leather_production_processes) Liming (/wiki/Liming_(leather_processing)) Deliming (/wiki/Deliming) Bating (/wiki/Bating_(leather)) Tanning (/wiki/Tanning_(leather)) Oiling (/wiki/Oiling_(leather_processing)) Crafting (/wiki/Leather_crafting) Bookbinding (/wiki/Bookbinding) Cuir de Cordoue (/wiki/Cuir_de_Cordoue) Leather carving (/wiki/Leather_carving) Substitutes Artificial leather / Leatherette (/wiki/Artificial_leather) Kirza (/wiki/Kirza) Naugahyde (/wiki/Naugahyde) Presstoff (/wiki/Presstoff) Ultrasuede (/wiki/Ultrasuede) Alcantara (/wiki/Alcantara_(material)) Clarino (/wiki/Clarino) Leather museums German Leather Museum (/wiki/German_Leather_Museum) Igualada Leather Museum (/wiki/Igualada_Leather_Museum) Walsall Leather Museum (/wiki/Walsall_Leather_Museum) Leather Archives and Museum (/wiki/Leather_Archives_and_Museum) British Museum leather dressing (/wiki/British_Museum_leather_dressing) Related History of hide materials (/wiki/History_of_hide_materials) Leather subculture (/wiki/Leather_subculture) Rawhide (/wiki/Rawhide_(material)) v t e Clothing materials and parts Garment structures Armscye (/wiki/Armscye) Collar (/wiki/Collar_(clothing)) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Collar stays (/wiki/Collar_stays) Detachable collar (/wiki/Detachable_collar) Cuff (/wiki/Cuff) Dart (/wiki/Dart_(sewing)) Facing (/wiki/Facing_(sewing)) Fly (/wiki/Fly_(clothing)) Lapel (/wiki/Lapel) Gore (/wiki/Gore_(segment)) Hem (/wiki/Hem) Lining (/wiki/Lining_(sewing)) Placket (/wiki/Placket) Pleat (/wiki/Pleat) Pocket (/wiki/Pocket) Revers (/wiki/Revers) Ruffle (/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)) Shoulder pad (/wiki/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)) Strap (/wiki/Shoulder_strap) Sleeve (/wiki/Sleeve) Train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) Waistband (/wiki/Waistband) Yoke (/wiki/Yoke_(clothing)) Textiles (/wiki/Textile) Natural Cotton (/wiki/Cotton) Fur (/wiki/Fur_clothing) Linen (/wiki/Linen) Silk (/wiki/Silk) Wool (/wiki/Wool) Synthetic Artificial leather (/wiki/Artificial_leather) Elastic (/wiki/Elastomer) Nylon (/wiki/Nylon) Polyester (/wiki/Polyester) Rayon (/wiki/Rayon) Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) Animal hides (/wiki/Hide_(skin)) / leather (/wiki/Leather) Calf (/wiki/Calfskin) Deer 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Wearable device that provides haptic feedback This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Haptic_suit) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Haptic_suit) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) The topic of this article may not meet Wikipedia's notability guidelines for products and services (/wiki/Wikipedia:Notability_(organizations_and_companies)#Products_and_services) . Please help to demonstrate the notability of the topic by citing reliable secondary sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Reliable_sources) that are independent (/wiki/Wikipedia:Independent_sources) of the topic and provide significant coverage of it beyond a mere trivial mention. If notability cannot be shown, the article is likely to be merged (/wiki/Wikipedia:Merging) , redirected (/wiki/Wikipedia:Redirect) , or deleted (/wiki/Wikipedia:Deletion_policy) . Find sources: "Haptic suit" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Haptic+suit%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Haptic+suit%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Haptic+suit%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Haptic+suit%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Haptic+suit%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Haptic+suit%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( October 2013 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Haptic_suit) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Haptic suit" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Haptic+suit%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Haptic+suit%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Haptic+suit%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Haptic+suit%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Haptic+suit%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Haptic+suit%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( October 2013 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) A haptic suit (also known as VR suit , tactile suit , gaming suit or haptic vest ) is a wearable device (/wiki/Wearable_device) that provides haptic (/wiki/Haptic_technology) feedback to the body. History [ edit ] Aura Interactor (1994) [ edit ] Aura Interactor (/wiki/Aura_Interactor) vest In 1994 Aura Systems launched the Interactor Vest (/wiki/Aura_Interactor) , [1] (#cite_note-EGM63-1) conceived by Aura's VP of Audio and Video Technologies, Larry Shultz [2] (#cite_note-2) to feel sound from video games and TV shows. The Interactor was a wearable force-feedback device that monitors an audio signal and uses Aura's patented electromagnetic actuator technology to convert bass sound waves into vibrations that can represent such actions as a punch or kick. The Interactor vest plugs into the audio output of a stereo, TV, or VCR and the user is provided with controls that allow for adjusting of the intensity of vibration and filtering out of high frequency sounds. The Interactor Vest is worn over the upper torso and the audio signal is reproduced through a speaker embedded in the vest. Sales numbers are unclear, but have numbers as low as 5000 [3] (#cite_note-3) of its Interactor Vest sold in Toys R Us [4] (#cite_note-4) and other electronics stores. Aura later began shipping the Interactor Cushion, a device which operates like the Vest but instead of being worn, it is placed against a seat back and the user must lean against it. Both the Vest and the Cushion were launched with a price tag of $99. [1] (#cite_note-EGM63-1) [5] (#cite_note-5) HugShirt (2002) [ edit ] In January 2002, Francesca Rosella and Ryan Genz, then researchers at the Interaction Design Institute Ivrea in Italy (/wiki/Interaction_Design_Institute_Ivrea) , designed the HugShirt. [6] (#cite_note-6) The Hugshirt is a wearable haptic telecommunication device that allows a wearer to send the feeling of a hug to a distant loved one. HugShirts feature touch sensors and haptic actuators that work together to capture and recreate touch over distance. Sensor areas placed on the garment capture the touch of the wearer, the data is transferred to their mobile device where the Hug App creates a Hug message that is delivered to the receiving wearer of a second HugShirt in another location across the world. Actuators in the receiving HugShirt recreate the touch that was created by the first wearer. The HugShirt was awarded first prize at the Cyberat Bilbao Festival, [ citation needed ] and subsequently awarded by Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) magazine as one of the best inventions of 2006. [7] (#cite_note-7) HugShirt (2002) haptic garment for remote touch SoundShirt (2016) [ edit ] The SoundShirt is a shirt that allows deaf and hearing audience members to experience music and AR enhanced by touch (haptic) sensations. The SoundShirt was used for its first performance by the Junge Symphoniker Orchestra in Hamburg, Germany. During a live or virtual performance the shirt maps different musical sounds to haptic sensations on different parts of the body, allowing media to be felt physically. The SoundShirt features 30 haptic multi-force actuators embedded into a garment. [8] (#cite_note-8) The SoundShirt is the winner of the 2019 UNESCO NETEXPLO Innovation award, [9] (#cite_note-9) and the Audience of the Future INNOVATE UK Innovation Grant. [10] (#cite_note-10) bHaptics TactSuit (2017) [ edit ] bHaptics released three products which are a vest based on 40 haptic points, a haptic mask, and a haptic arm band with 20 haptic points. [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) Teslasuit [ edit ] The Teslasuit is a full body haptic suit with motion capture and biometric sensors. Its haptic feedback system uses electrical muscle stimulation (/wiki/Electrical_muscle_stimulation) (EMS) and transcutaneous electrical nerve stimulation (/wiki/Transcutaneous_electrical_nerve_stimulation) (TENS) to simulate feelings and sensations. The use of biometric sensors has proposed uses in medicine, and specifically rehabilitation psychology (/wiki/Rehabilitation_psychology) . [13] (#cite_note-13) According to ABC News (/wiki/ABC_News_(Australia)) , Teslasuit is so far too expensive to go mainstream. [14] (#cite_note-14) OW-O [ edit ] The OW-O is a rechargeable wireless shirt. It has a mobile app and can be used in video games. [15] (#cite_note-15) See also [ edit ] Media related to Haptic suits (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Haptic_suits) at Wikimedia Commons Ready Player One (/wiki/Ready_Player_One) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Aura's Interactor - VR at its Vest". Electronic Gaming Monthly (/wiki/Electronic_Gaming_Monthly) . No. 63. Ziff Davis (/wiki/Ziff_Davis) . October 1994. pp. 56–60. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Best Virtual Reality Video Game Wear Technology Invention by Larry Shultz" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180626135820/http://www.larryshultz.com/best-virtual-reality-vr-video-game-wear-invention-by-larry-shultz/) . www.larryshultz.com . Archived from the original (http://www.larryshultz.com/Best-Virtual-Reality-VR-Video-Game-Wear-Invention-by-Larry-Shultz/) on 2018-06-26 . Retrieved 2016-05-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "AVSIM Commercial Hardware" (https://web.archive.org/web/20191105080150/https://www.avsim.com/pages/0604/aura/aura_interactor.htm) . www.avsim.com . Archived from the original (http://www.avsim.com/pages/0604/aura/aura_interactor.htm) on 2019-11-05 . Retrieved 2017-04-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Interactor Videos" (https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=aura+interactor) . YouTube . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Cushioning the Blows". GamePro (/wiki/GamePro) . No. 81. IDG (/wiki/International_Data_Group) . June 1995. p. 138. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The HugShirt" (https://cutecircuit.com/the-hug-shirt/) . CUTECIRCUIT . 10 April 2014. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200512054456/https://cutecircuit.com/the-hug-shirt/) from the original on 2020-05-12 . Retrieved 2020-05-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Best Inventions of 2006" (http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1939342_1939424_1939709,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . 13 November 2006. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191031083616/http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1939342_1939424_1939709,00.html) from the original on 2019-10-31 . Retrieved 2020-05-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "The SoundShirt" (https://cutecircuit.com/soundshirt/) . CuteCircuit . 12 May 2017. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200512061100/https://cutecircuit.com/soundshirt/) from the original on 2020-05-12 . Retrieved 2020-05-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Learning in the digital age, smart cities, among the innovations taking centre stage at UNESCO Netexplo Forum" (https://en.unesco.org/news/learning-digital-age-smart-cities-among-innovations-taking-centre-stage-unesco-netexplo-forum) . UNESCO . 15 April 2019. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190416132346/https://en.unesco.org/news/learning-digital-age-smart-cities-among-innovations-taking-centre-stage-unesco-netexplo-forum) from the original on 2019-04-16 . Retrieved 2020-05-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "CuteCircuit: clothing the wearer in immersive sound" (https://www.gov.uk/government/case-studies/cutecircuit-clothing-the-wearer-in-immersive-sound) . GOV.UK . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190724013449/https://www.gov.uk/government/case-studies/cutecircuit-clothing-the-wearer-in-immersive-sound) from the original on 2019-07-24 . Retrieved 2020-05-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "bHaptics TactSuit" (https://www.bhaptics.com/tactsuit/) . bhaptics . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "bhaptics tactsuit vr haptic feedback htc-vive-x-demo-day" (https://www.engadget.com/2017/07/02/bhaptics-tactsuit-vr-haptic-feedback-htc-vive-x-demo-day/) . Engadget . Retrieved 2017-07-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "HSS Innovation Institute and Teslasuit to Advance Healthcare with Immersive ХR Training Technology" (https://news.hss.edu/HSS-Innovation-Institute-and-TESLASUIT-to-Advance-Healthcare-with-Immersive-ХR-Training-Technology/) . HSS Innovation Institute and TESLASUIT to Advance Healthcare with Immersive ХR Training Technology . 2021-07-06 . Retrieved 2022-06-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "The developers of this VR suit discovered an interesting fact" (https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2021-04-01/vr-teslasuit-simulates-virtual-reality-touch-haptic-feedback/100030320) . ABC News . 2021-03-31 . Retrieved 2022-01-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Stanton, Rich (14 July 2023). "Assassin's Creed Mirage has a tie-in haptic vest that can beat you up, stab you, axe you, dart you, and combo into a 'severe abdominal wound' (https://www.pcgamer.com/assassins-creed-mirage-has-a-tie-in-haptic-vest-that-can-beat-you-up-stab-you-axe-you-dart-you-and-combo-into-a-severe-abdominal-wound/) " (https://www.pcgamer.com/assassins-creed-mirage-has-a-tie-in-haptic-vest-that-can-beat-you-up-stab-you-axe-you-dart-you-and-combo-into-a-severe-abdominal-wound/) . 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Swedish fashion designer (1920–2017) Katja of Sweden Katja of Sweden, November 1957 Born Karin Ingegerd Hallberg ( 1920-01-12 ) 12 January 1920 [1] (#cite_note-1) Ekeby, Bjuv (/wiki/Ekeby,_Bjuv) , Sweden Died 25 January 2017 (2017-01-25) (aged 97) Nationality Swedish (/wiki/Sweden) Education Konstfack, Sweden, Beckmans, Sweden, Parson's School of Design Known for Fashion Design (/wiki/Fashion_Design) Katja Ingergard Geiger (born Karin Ingegerd Hallberg ; 12 January 1920 – 25 January 2017), better known as Katja of Sweden , was a Swedish fashion designer. [2] (#cite_note-katja_of_sweden_book-2) Early life and career [ edit ] After studying art and design at Konstfack (/wiki/Konstfack) and Beckmans in Stockholm, Sweden, Karin moved to New York City in 1946 to study fashion design at Parson's School of Design. [3] (#cite_note-thelocal_20170126-3) There she married movie producer and director Rod E. Geiger (/wiki/Rod_E._Geiger) who at the time was producing movies for Roberto Rossellini (/wiki/Roberto_Rossellini) . Katja and her husband launched the Katja of Sweden brand in the late 1940s. Katja became close friends with Rosselini's wife Ingrid Bergman (/wiki/Ingrid_Bergman) , and named a blouse after her that became a fashion hit. [3] (#cite_note-thelocal_20170126-3) [4] (#cite_note-minnenasjournal_1920-2017-4) She was the designer for Arthur Sportswear which used contractors including those in the Bronx which employed 50 seamstresses turning out her products. Being close friends with Charlie Chaplin (/wiki/Charlie_Chaplin) , and Edward Dmytryk (/wiki/Edward_Dmytryk) who was one of the Hollywood Ten (/wiki/Hollywood_Ten) , the Hollywood blacklist (/wiki/Hollywood_blacklist) ordeal got Mr. Geiger in hot water. [3] (#cite_note-thelocal_20170126-3) The couple moved to Huaröd (/wiki/Huar%C3%B6d) in Sweden in 1953, where the label "Katja of Sweden" became a fashion sensation which lasted for over twenty years. [2] (#cite_note-katja_of_sweden_book-2) In 1975, they moved back to New York City, where Katja began designing home textiles, bed sheets, and kitchenware. "Katja shops" opened up in Macy's (/wiki/Macy%27s) department store and Cannon Mills (/wiki/Cannon_Mills) manufactured her designs under license. In the 1980s advertisements featuring Bob Hope (/wiki/Bob_Hope) and Larry Hagman (/wiki/Larry_Hagman) sleeping in "Katja sheets" ran with the tagline "Two of the Most Famous Names in America Sleep Together" [2] (#cite_note-katja_of_sweden_book-2) In 1995, the Geigers moved back to Sweden to be closer to family. Rod Geiger died in 2000. Katja's clothes are now part of the permanent collection of the Museum "Kulturen" in Lund, Sweden. [2] (#cite_note-katja_of_sweden_book-2) She died on 25 January 2017 at the age of 97. [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) Awards [ edit ] 1950: US Designer of the Year [4] (#cite_note-minnenasjournal_1920-2017-4) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Eleanor Lambert (1976). World of Fashion: People, Places, Resources . R. R. Bowker Company. p. 172 (https://archive.org/details/worldoffashionpe00lamb/page/172) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0835206270 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Geiger, Katja (2000). Katja of Sweden: mode och design utan gränser: en biografi . Dialogos Förlag. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789175041537 . ^ Jump up to: a b c AFP (26 January 2017). "Internationally acclaimed Swedish fashion designer dies" (https://www.thelocal.se/20170126/internationally-acclaimed-swedish-fashion-designer-dies) . Thelocal.se . Retrieved 4 July 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b Karl Zetterberg (20 March 2017). "Katja Geiger (Katja of Sweden) 1920–2017" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180704094448/https://www.minnenasjournal.nu/katja-geiger-katja-of-sweden-1920-2017/) (in Swedish). Archived from the original (https://www.minnenasjournal.nu/katja-geiger-katja-of-sweden-1920-2017/) on 4 July 2018 . Retrieved 4 July 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Modeikonen Katja of Sweden är död – P4 Kristianstad" (http://sverigesradio.se/sida/artikel.aspx?programid=101&artikel=6616393) . Sverigesradio.se . Retrieved 20 August 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Modedesignern Katja of Sweden är död – DN.SE" (http://www.dn.se/kultur-noje/konst-form/modedesignern-katja-of-sweden-ar-dod/) . Dn.se . 25 January 2017 . Retrieved 20 August 2017 . External links [ edit ] "A Fresh Look at Mid-century Design" (https://web.archive.org/web/20211117115501/http://www.wornthrough.com/2011/12/a-fresh-look-at-mid-century-design/) . Wornthrough.com . 15 December 2011. Archived from the original (http://www.wornthrough.com/2011/12/a-fresh-look-at-mid-century-design/) on 17 November 2021 . Retrieved 20 August 2017 . " (http://www.sydsvenskan.se/familj/fodelsedag/katja-of-sweden-firar-90-ar/) "Katja of Sweden" firar 90 år" (http://www.sydsvenskan.se/familj/fodelsedag/katja-of-sweden-firar-90-ar/) . Sydsvenskan.se . Retrieved 20 August 2017 . Further reading [ edit ] Katja of Sweden (http://www.skbl.se/en/article/KatjaGeiger) at Svenskt kvinnobiografiskt lexikon (/wiki/Svenskt_kvinnobiografiskt_lexikon) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/2453148632969930630001) National Sweden (https://libris.kb.se/31fjrgmm2m9xhgf) Artists KulturNav (http://kulturnav.org/06bcea5b-22b9-4a4d-a185-9b729190ba5e) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐65687cfdb7‐n5zfc Cached time: 20240623172213 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.397 seconds Real time usage: 0.819 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2143/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 24986/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1593/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 35302/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.292/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5853027/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 576.102 1 -total 34.23% 197.214 1 Template:Infobox_artist 33.65% 193.880 1 Template:Reflist 26.07% 150.208 2 Template:Cite_book 16.51% 95.090 1 Template:Authority_control_(arts) 12.79% 73.709 1 Template:Short_description 7.20% 41.508 2 Template:Pagetype 6.13% 35.301 17 Template:Main_other 5.88% 33.891 1 Template:Birth_date 5.00% 28.815 6 Template:Cite_web Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:41912885-0!canonical and timestamp 20240623172213 and revision id 1176097067. 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Aspect of popular culture David Bowie (/wiki/David_Bowie) and Cher (/wiki/Cher) in 1975. Music and fashion have long been closely linked. Artistic movements in music (/wiki/Music) have often been associated with distinct fashions (/wiki/Fashion) . [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Both industries have also had considerable influence on each other. Many famous musicians have also had notable styles and influenced fashion. [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) Grunge [ edit ] This section is an excerpt from Grunge fashion (/wiki/Grunge_fashion) . [ edit (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Grunge_fashion&action=edit) ] Grunge fashion (/wiki/Grunge_fashion) refers to the clothing, accessories and hairstyles of the grunge (/wiki/Grunge) music genre. This subculture (/wiki/Subculture) emerged in mid-1980s Seattle (/wiki/Seattle) , and had reached wide popularity by the mid 1990s. Grunge fashion is characterized by durable and timeless thrift-store clothing (/wiki/Thrift_store_chic) , often worn in a loose, androgynous manner to de-emphasize the silhouette. The style was popularized by music bands Nirvana (/wiki/Nirvana_(band)) , Soundgarden (/wiki/Soundgarden) and Pearl Jam (/wiki/Pearl_Jam) . Heavy metal [ edit ] This section is an excerpt from Heavy metal fashion (/wiki/Heavy_metal_fashion) . [ edit (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Heavy_metal_fashion&action=edit) ] Judas Priest (/wiki/Judas_Priest) , in typical heavy metal stage attire, performing at the VH1 Rock Honors (/wiki/VH1_Rock_Honors) on May 25, 2006. Heavy metal fashion (/wiki/Heavy_metal_fashion) is the style of dress, body modification (/wiki/Body_modification) , make-up (/wiki/Make-up) , hairstyle, and so on, taken on by fans of heavy metal (/wiki/Heavy_metal_music) , or, as they are often called, metalheads (/wiki/Heavy_metal_subculture) or headbangers. While the style has changed from the 1970s to the 2020s, certain key elements have remained constant, such as black clothes, long hair and leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jackets) . In the 1980s, some bands began wearing spandex (/wiki/Spandex) . Other attire includes denim or leather vests or jackets with band patches and logos, t-shirts (/wiki/T-shirts) with band names, and spiked wristbands. It can also include, with heavier subgenres of metal: bullet belts, gas masks, and war gear. Hip-hop [ edit ] This section is an excerpt from Hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) . [ edit (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hip_hop_fashion&action=edit) ] Rapper Snoop Dogg (/wiki/Snoop_Dogg) back in 2009 show overalls Hip-hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) (also known as rap fashion) refers to the various styles of dress (/wiki/Clothing) that originated from Urban Black America (/wiki/African_Americans) and inner city youth in cities like New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , Atlanta (/wiki/Atlanta) , and Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) . Being a major part of hip hop culture (/wiki/Hip_hop_(culture)) , it further developed in other cities across the United States, [5] (#cite_note-5) with each contributing different elements to the overall style that is now recognized worldwide. Mod [ edit ] This section is an excerpt from Mod (subculture) (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) . [ edit (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Mod_(subculture)&action=edit) ] Mod (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) , from the word modernist, is a subculture (/wiki/Subculture) that began in 1950s London (/wiki/London) and spread throughout Great Britain, eventually influencing fashions and trends in other countries. [6] (#cite_note-Mod_(subculture)_life-6) It continues today on a smaller scale. Focused on music and fashion, the subculture has its roots in a small group of stylish London-based young men and women in the late 1950s who were termed modernists because they listened to modern jazz (/wiki/Modern_jazz) . [7] (#cite_note-7) Elements of the mod subculture include fashion (often tailor-made suits); music (including soul (/wiki/Soul_music) , rhythm and blues (/wiki/Rhythm_and_blues) , ska (/wiki/Ska) and mainly jazz (/wiki/Jazz) ) and motor scooters (usually Lambretta (/wiki/Lambretta) or Vespa (/wiki/Vespa) ). In the mid-1960s, the subculture listened to rock (/wiki/Rock_music) groups such as the Who (/wiki/The_Who) and Small Faces (/wiki/Small_Faces) . The original mod scene was associated with amphetamine (/wiki/Amphetamine) -fuelled all-night jazz dancing at clubs. [8] (#cite_note-Mod_(subculture)_medicine-8) Punk [ edit ] This section is an excerpt from Punk fashion (/wiki/Punk_fashion) . [ edit (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Punk_fashion&action=edit) ] Punk fashion circa 1986, a hairstyle with dyed red liberty spikes (/wiki/Liberty_spikes) Punk fashion (/wiki/Punk_fashion) is the clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , hairstyles (/wiki/Hairstyles) , cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) , jewellery (/wiki/Jewellery) , and body modifications (/wiki/Body_modification) of the punk counterculture (/wiki/Punk_counterculture) . Punk fashion varies widely, ranging from Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) designs to styles modeled on bands like The Exploited (/wiki/The_Exploited) to the dressed-down look of North American hardcore. The distinct social dress of other subcultures and art movements, including glam rock (/wiki/Glam_rock) , skinheads (/wiki/Skinheads) , greasers (/wiki/Greaser_(subculture)) , and mods (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) have influenced punk fashion. Punk fashion has likewise influenced the styles of these groups, as well as those of popular culture (/wiki/Popular_culture) . Many punks use clothing as a way of making a statement. [9] (#cite_note-Punk_fashion_Hudson-9) Punk fashion has long been commercialized, [10] (#cite_note-10) with well-established fashion designers like Zandra Rhodes (/wiki/Zandra_Rhodes) , [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) Thierry Mugler (/wiki/Thierry_Mugler) , [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) Jean Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean_Paul_Gaultier) , [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) Stephen Sprouse (/wiki/Stephen_Sprouse) , [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) and Anna Sui (/wiki/Anna_Sui) [20] (#cite_note-20) [21] (#cite_note-21) using punk elements in their production and the first punk-influenced fashion spreads appearing in mainstream fashion magazines as early as 1976. [22] (#cite_note-22) The early, pre-fame work of designer Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) helped pioneer the look of early British punk with her scene-establishing clothing shops Sex (/wiki/Sex_(boutique)) and Seditionaries (/wiki/Sex_(boutique)#Seditionaries) in the mid-1970s, co-run with Malcolm McLaren (/wiki/Malcolm_McLaren) who managed the Sex Pistols (/wiki/Sex_Pistols) . Westwood was asked by then-partner McLaren to outfit the Sex Pistols, and Westwood's designs found a canvas on Johnny Rotten and Sid Vicious. [23] (#cite_note-23) Her early work with Sex and the Sex Pistols helped to establish her as one of the most influential British designers of the 20th century. [24] (#cite_note-24) See also [ edit ] Indie sleaze (/wiki/Indie_sleaze) Beatle boot (/wiki/Beatle_boot) Fashion of Madonna (/wiki/Fashion_of_Madonna) Cultural impact of Michael Jackson (fashion) (/wiki/Cultural_impact_of_Michael_Jackson#Fashion) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "How Does Music Impact Fashion?" (https://www.lmtmusicacademy.co.uk/how-does-music-impact-fashion) . LMT Music Academy . 2024-01-18 . Retrieved 2024-04-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Hardcastle, Kate. "Taylor-Made Success: The Power Of Music & Fashion's 'Special Relationship' (https://www.forbes.com/sites/katehardcastle/2024/01/19/taylor-made-success-the-power-of-music--fashions-special-relationship/) " (https://www.forbes.com/sites/katehardcastle/2024/01/19/taylor-made-success-the-power-of-music--fashions-special-relationship/) . Forbes . Retrieved 2024-04-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "From Madonna to J.Lo, Lizzo and Britney, take a look back at 32 of the most iconic fashion moments in music history" (https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/fashion-moments-in-music-history) . Glamour UK . 2021-07-15 . Retrieved 2024-04-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Jackson, Claire. "Classical music's enduring relationship with fashion" (https://www.classical-music.com/articles/classical-musics-enduring-relationship-with-fashion) . Classical Music . Retrieved 2024-04-12 – via BBC Music (/wiki/BBC_Music) . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "The Complete Story Of How Hip-Hop Changed The Way We Dress" (https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/hip-hop-style/) . FashionBeans . Retrieved 2019-08-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-Mod_(subculture)_life_6-0) Grossman, Henry; Spencer, Terrance; Saton, Ernest (1966-05-13). "Revolution in Men's Clothes: Mod Fashions from Britain are Making a Smash in the U.S." (https://books.google.com/books?id=IVYEAAAAMBAJ&q=May+13%2C+1966) Life (/wiki/Life_(magazine)) . pp. 82–88. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Jaquest, Oonagh (May 2003). "Jeff Noon on The Modernists" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/southyorkshire/stage/2003/05/mods/index.shtml) . BBC. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090111051416/http://www.bbc.co.uk/southyorkshire/stage/2003/05/mods/index.shtml) from the original on 11 January 2009 . Retrieved 11 October 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-Mod_(subculture)_medicine_8-0) Wilson, Dr. Andrew (2008). "Mixing the Medicine: The Unintended Consequence of Amphetamine Control on the Northern Soul Scene" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110713045851/http://www.internetjournalofcriminology.com/Wilson%20-%20Mixing%20the%20Medicine.pdf) (PDF) . Internet Journal of Criminology . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2045-6743 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2045-6743) . Archived from the original (http://www.internetjournalofcriminology.com/Wilson%20-%20Mixing%20the%20Medicine.pdf) (PDF) on 13 July 2011 . Retrieved 11 October 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-Punk_fashion_Hudson_9-0) Hudson, Alice (2016). "Understanding the Politics of Punk Clothing from 1976 to 1980 Using Surviving Objects and Oral Testimony" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180403122756/http://arts.brighton.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0008/199655/Understanding-the-Politics-of-Punk-Clothing.pdf) (PDF) . University of Brighton (Dissertation). Archived from the original (http://arts.brighton.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0008/199655/Understanding-the-Politics-of-Punk-Clothing.pdf) (PDF) on 2018-04-03 . Retrieved 2019-02-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Hyde, Nina S. (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1978-01-01). "Fashion Notes" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/01/01/fashion-notes/d8df3044-440b-4fbf-a216-7c263cbd2d5b/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-04-04 . ...[P]unk...has inspired the huge trash cans with shoulder ropes being sold...as trendy carryalls at New York's Fiorucci. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1977". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 356. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . 1977: Rhodes presented a 'punk' collection of ripped, zipped and safety-pinned jersey evening dress... ^ (#cite_ref-12) Hyde, Nina S. (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1977-10-29). "And Now 'Punk Chic' (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/10/29/and-now-punk-chic/ef17f57e-977b-4f6a-a2ff-c35e328ab1bd/) " (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/10/29/and-now-punk-chic/ef17f57e-977b-4f6a-a2ff-c35e328ab1bd/) . The Washington Post . The French are not the first to exploit punk fashion. British fashion designer Zandra Rhodes incorporated rips and tears and safety pins into $600 silk crepe dresses a season back [spring 1977]. Stores like Sakowitz in Houston sold them 'rather well,' according to Robert Sakowitz, the store owner. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Morris, Bernadine (1977-09-17). "All Around Town, a Week of Lavish Couture Openings" (https://www.nytimes.com/1977/09/17/archives/all-around-town-a-week-of-lavish-couture-openings.html) . The New York Times : 19 . Retrieved 2022-04-04 . ...Zandra Rhodes, the British designer who transcribed the punk rock image into the idiom of high fashion....Zandra Rhodes...catapulted 'punk rock' to the fashion world's attention....The style is characterized by cutouts, safety pins and chains...In Miss Rhode's versions, there was not much of the aggressive, sadistic punk rock flavor. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Hyde, Nina S. (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1977-10-24). "Thinking Big for Spring" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/10/24/thinking-big-for-spring/69607aa7-4a9e-4e4a-882e-32172a15cdc6/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . There is punk influence at Thierry Mugler, including a punk model with fluorescent yellow hair... ^ (#cite_ref-15) Hyde, Nina S. (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1977-10-29). "And Now 'Punk Chic' (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/10/29/and-now-punk-chic/ef17f57e-977b-4f6a-a2ff-c35e328ab1bd/) " (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/10/29/and-now-punk-chic/ef17f57e-977b-4f6a-a2ff-c35e328ab1bd/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-04-04 . At Thierry Mugler, black leather and safety-pin jewelry showed up on the runway worn by the cool, blonde [French punk icon] Edwige. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976-1986". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 345. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . ...Jean-Paul Gaultier fused the showmanship of a couture training...with the design anarchy borrowed from London's streets... ^ (#cite_ref-17) Cunningham, Bill (1986-03-01). "Bright Spring Fashion Takes a Brave New Direction". Details . IV (8). New York, NY: 98. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0740-4921 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0740-4921) . Jean Paul Gaultier...defines the neo-punk yuppies. ^ (#cite_ref-18) Cunningham, Bill (1988-03-01). "Fashionating Rhythm". Details . VI (8). New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 119. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0740-4921 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0740-4921) . Stephen Sprouse...continues to manipulate...the Sixties hippie and Seventies punk influences... ^ (#cite_ref-19) Goodman, Wendy (1987-09-21). "Stephen Sprouse Tries a Comeback with a Solid New Store" (https://books.google.com/books?id=l-UCAAAAMBAJ&dq=%22stephen+sprouse%22&pg=PA139) . New York . 20 (37): 139 . Retrieved 2022-08-18 . Stephen Sprouse...T-shirts printed with safety pins, skulls, and barbed wire; eleven-inch micro-skirts in...camouflage patterns;...dresses covered with gold safety pins... ^ (#cite_ref-20) Nika, Colleen (September 14, 2011). "Exclusive: Anna Sui Discusses Her Spring 2012 Show and Punk Rock Heritage" (https://www.rollingstone.com/culture/news/exclusive-anna-sui-discusses-her-spring-2012-show-and-punk-rock-heritage-20110914) . rollingstone.com . Rolling Stone . Retrieved November 2, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Drain, Kelsey (May 13, 2016). "Opening Ceremony, Anna Sui Capsule Collection Launches; Designer's '90s Pieces Reissued" (https://web.archive.org/web/20161104003738/http://www.fashiontimes.com/articles/26223/20160513/opening-ceremony-anna-sui-capsule-collection-launches-designers-90s-pieces.htm) . fashiontimes.com . Fashion Times. Archived from the original (http://www.fashiontimes.com/articles/26223/20160513/opening-ceremony-anna-sui-capsule-collection-launches-designers-90s-pieces.htm) on November 4, 2016 . Retrieved November 2, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 353. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . 1976: The punk image began to be covered in Italian Vogue , which featured page after page of black clothing worn with aggressive accessories: low-slung, studded belts, leather knuckle-dusters, dog chains, and wrap-around sunglasses. Hair was dishevelled and tied with black lace ribbons. ^ (#cite_ref-23) Andrew, Scottie. "How Vivienne Westwood dressed the Sex Pistols and shaped punk" (https://www.cnn.com/style/article/vivienne-westwood-punk-fashion-sex-pistols-cec/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved 2023-04-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Price, Authors: Shannon. "Vivienne Westwood (born 1941) and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style | Essay | The Metropolitan Museum of Art | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History" (https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.html) . The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History . Retrieved 2023-04-01 . 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Celebrity (/wiki/Celebrity) Bobby soxer (/wiki/Bobby_soxer_(music)) Sasaeng fan (/wiki/Sasaeng_fan) Teenybopper (/wiki/Teenybopper) Wota Honorific nicknames (/wiki/Honorific_nicknames_in_popular_music) Music and fashion Pop music automation (/wiki/Pop_music_automation) Popular music pedagogy (/wiki/Popular_music_pedagogy) Rockism and poptimism (/wiki/Rockism_and_poptimism) Songwriter (/wiki/Songwriter) Talent manager (/wiki/Talent_manager) Talent agent (/wiki/Talent_agent) Teen idol (/wiki/Teen_idol) Boy band (/wiki/Boy_band) Girl group (/wiki/Girl_group) Verse–chorus form (/wiki/Verse%E2%80%93chorus_form) Virtual band (/wiki/Virtual_band) Worldbeat (/wiki/Worldbeat) v t e Music industry (/wiki/Music_industry) Major companies and organizations Representatives ARIA (/wiki/Australian_Recording_Industry_Association) BVMI (/wiki/Bundesverband_Musikindustrie) BPI (/wiki/British_Phonographic_Industry) Music Canada (/wiki/Music_Canada) FIMI (/wiki/Federazione_Industria_Musicale_Italiana) IFPI (worldwide) (/wiki/International_Federation_of_the_Phonographic_Industry) PMB (/wiki/Pro-M%C3%BAsica_Brasil) PROMUSICAE (/wiki/Productores_de_M%C3%BAsica_de_Espa%C3%B1a) RIAA (/wiki/RIAA_certification) SNEP (/wiki/SNEP) Publishers BMG Rights Management (/wiki/BMG_Rights_Management) Sony Music Publishing (/wiki/Sony_Music_Publishing) Universal Music Publishing Group (/wiki/Universal_Music_Publishing_Group) Warner Chappell Music (/wiki/Warner_Chappell_Music) Record labels Major (/wiki/Record_label#Major_labels) : Sony (/wiki/Sony_Music) Universal (/wiki/Universal_Music_Group) Warner (/wiki/Warner_Music_Group) Independent (/wiki/Independent_record_label) : Concord (/wiki/Concord_(entertainment_company)) Independent UK record labels (/wiki/List_of_independent_UK_record_labels) AAMG (/wiki/Allied_Artists_Music_Group) Retailers Amazon (/wiki/Amazon_(company)) Digital music stores (/wiki/Digital_music_store) ( iTunes Store (/wiki/ITunes_Store) ) Fnac (/wiki/Fnac) HMV (/wiki/HMV) Kaspien 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British Business woman Helen Connolly Born 1972 (age 51–52) United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) Nationality British (/wiki/British_people) Education Manchester University (/wiki/Manchester_Metropolitan_University) Occupations executive Businesswoman Years active 2016– Employer New Look (/wiki/New_Look_(company)) Title Chief Commercial Officer (/wiki/Chief_Commercial_Officer) Term January 2020 Predecessor Roger Wightman Successor Incumbent (/wiki/Incumbent) Helen Connolly (born December 1972) [1] (#cite_note-1) is a British businesswoman. She is the Chief Commercial Officer (/wiki/Chief_Commercial_Officer) of New Look (/wiki/New_Look_(company)) and was previously the chief executive officer (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) of Bonmarché (/wiki/Bonmarch%C3%A9) . Early life [ edit ] She attended Manchester Metropolitan University (/wiki/Manchester_Metropolitan_University) , where she studied Clothing. [ citation needed ] Career [ edit ] Dorothy Perkins [ edit ] She worked for Dorothy Perkins (/wiki/Dorothy_Perkins) as head of Buying from 2006 to 2008. [ citation needed ] Asda [ edit ] She worked for Asda (/wiki/Asda) from 2003 to 2006, and from 2008 to 2016. [ citation needed ] Bonmarché [ edit ] In August 2016 she became the chief executive of Bonmarché (/wiki/Bonmarch%C3%A9) . The former chief executive became chief executive of Karen Millen (/wiki/Karen_Millen) . [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) In December 2019, Connolly stepped down from her position. [4] (#cite_note-4) New Look [ edit ] In January 2020 she became the Chief Commercial Officer (/wiki/Chief_Commercial_Officer) for New Look (/wiki/New_Look_(company)) , replacing Roger Wightman, who had worked for New Look for 30 Years. [5] (#cite_note-5) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Helen CONNOLLY - Personal Appointments (free information from Companies House)" (https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/officers/avxc_mPp_1oDIkccMghgUFUmcJY/appointments) . beta.companieshouse.gov.uk . Retrieved 8 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Profile: Bonmarché's new chief executive Helen Connolly" (https://www.retail-week.com/sectors/fashion/profile-bonmarchs-new-chief-executive-helen-connolly/7006171.article) . Retrieved 8 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Bonmarché appoints new boss to replace veteran chief" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2016/03/30/bonmarch-appoints-new-boss-to-replace-veteran-chief/) . Retrieved 8 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Nazir, Sahar (18 December 2019). "Bonmarche CEO Helen Connolly quits" (https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2019/12/bonmarche-ceo-helen-connolly-quits/) . Retail Gazette . Retrieved 7 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Ex-Bonmarche CEO Helen Connolly joins New Look as commercial chief" (https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2020/01/ex-bonmarche-ceo-helen-connolly-joins-new-look-as-cco/) . Retail Gazette . Retrieved 23 July 2020 . External links [ edit ] Bonmarché (http://bonmarcheplc.co.uk/company-overview/board-of-directors/) Business positions Preceded by Beth Butterwick (/w/index.php?title=Beth_Butterwick&action=edit&redlink=1) Chief Executive of Bonmarché (/wiki/Bonmarch%C3%A9) August 2016 - Succeeded by Incumbent This article about a British businessperson born in the 1970s is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Halftime show of the 2012 Super Bowl Super Bowl XLVI halftime show Part of Super Bowl XLVI (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XLVI) Date February 5, 2012 ( 2012-02-05 ) Location Indianapolis (/wiki/Indianapolis) , Indiana Venue Lucas Oil Stadium (/wiki/Lucas_Oil_Stadium) Headliner Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) Special guests LMFAO (/wiki/LMFAO) Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) M.I.A. (/wiki/M.I.A._(rapper)) CeeLo Green (/wiki/CeeLo_Green) Sponsors Bridgestone (/wiki/Bridgestone) Directors Hamish Hamilton (/wiki/Hamish_Hamilton_(director)) Producers Ricky Kirshner (/wiki/Ricky_Kirshner) Super Bowl halftime show (/wiki/List_of_Super_Bowl_halftime_shows) chronology XLV (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XLV_halftime_show) (2011) XLVI (2012) XLVII (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XLVII_halftime_show) (2013) The Super Bowl XLVI halftime show took place on February 5, 2012, at the Lucas Oil Stadium (/wiki/Lucas_Oil_Stadium) in Indianapolis (/wiki/Indianapolis) , Indiana as part of Super Bowl XLVI (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XLVI) . It was headlined by Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) , who became the first sole female headliner since Diana Ross (/wiki/Diana_Ross) in 1996 (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XXX_halftime_show) . [1] (#cite_note-1) It featured guest appearances by LMFAO (/wiki/LMFAO) , Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) , M.I.A. (/wiki/M.I.A._(rapper)) and CeeLo Green (/wiki/CeeLo_Green) . Including collaborations with Cirque du Soleil (/wiki/Cirque_du_Soleil) , choreographer Jamie King (/wiki/Jamie_King) as music director, and multimedia show producer Moment Factory (/wiki/Moment_Factory) , the show was critically acclaimed, setting a Super Bowl halftime show record at the time of 114 million viewers, higher than the viewership of the game itself. [2] (#cite_note-2) Preparations began in January, with Madonna saying that the rehearsal was the most exhausting one in which she had ever participated. Costumes were designed by Riccardo Tisci (/wiki/Riccardo_Tisci) , Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) , Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) and Prada (/wiki/Prada) . The production team was allotted seven minutes to set up the stage, 12 minutes for the performance and eight minutes to take down the stage. The modular structure was assembled from a truck, with a large white fabric in front as media screens for Moment Factory. Projection mapping (/wiki/Projection_mapping) was used by video-hardware manufacturer Barco (/wiki/Barco_(manufacturer)) , with films modified for the spectators and the television audience. The stadium was equipped with Sharpys lighting arrangements from Clay Paky (/wiki/Clay_Paky) , and the show used Sennheiser (/wiki/Sennheiser) sound equipment. Madonna was not paid for performing at the halftime show, which provides global exposure for an artist. Keith Caulfield of Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) reported a 17-fold sales increase for Madonna's back catalog and strong preorder sales for her upcoming releases. Critics praised the show, noting Madonna's cautious performance. However, criticism and controversy was targeted at M.I.A. extending her middle finger (/wiki/Finger_(gesture)) to the camera near the end of her verse of "Give Me All Your Luvin ' ". The NFL apologized for its inability to blur out (/wiki/Censorship) the image. The league later fined M.I.A. $16.6 million, which was settled in a confidential 2014 agreement. Synopsis [ edit ] External videos Full Super Bowl XLVI halftime show – via Madonna's official YouTube channel. The halftime show was broadcast on NBC (/wiki/NBC) . It began as a procession to the stage, with men dressed as gladiators (/wiki/Gladiator) pulling a large structure hidden from view by large gold-colored flags. As " Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(Madonna_song)) " began the flags were removed, revealing Madonna in a long, gold-colored cape and an ancient-Egyptian helmet seated on a large throne. The procession reached the stage, and the singer began performing "Vogue". During the chorus, the stadium floor lit up to reveal animated Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) magazine covers featuring Madonna. After the song, she took off her helmet. As "Vogue" segued into " Music (/wiki/Music_(Madonna_song)) ", two large boom boxes appeared on the ground screens and the stadium handrails were lit with moving lights. Madonna and her dancers moved towards the stands. Slacklining (/wiki/Slacklining) performer Andy Lewis (/wiki/Andy_Lewis_(performer)) accompanied the singer, who danced on a tall pedestal. Madonna pretended to shoot Lewis and moved to the other end of the stage, where LMFAO (/wiki/LMFAO) sang " Party Rock Anthem (/wiki/Party_Rock_Anthem) " in a segue from "Music". They and Madonna danced to " Sexy and I Know It (/wiki/Sexy_and_I_Know_It) ". "Music" ended with a group of female dancers in cheerleading uniforms joining Madonna onstage for "Give Me All Your Luvin ' ". Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) and M.I.A. (/wiki/M.I.A._(rapper)) joined her onstage, dressed in Egyptian-style clothing, and they danced as cheerleaders (/wiki/Cheerleader) with pom-poms (/wiki/Pom-pom) . During the song they stood on separate, elevated platforms, where Minaj and M.I.A. performed their respective verses. CeeLo Green (/wiki/CeeLo_Green) came onstage with a marching band (/wiki/Marching_band) at the end of the song, and he and Madonna performed portions of " Open Your Heart (/wiki/Open_Your_Heart_(Madonna_song)) " and " Express Yourself (/wiki/Express_Yourself_(Madonna_song)) ". " Like a Prayer (/wiki/Like_a_Prayer_(song)) " opened to a darkened stadium, with small specks of light visible, and a large choir dressed in black joined Madonna onstage. She reached the top of the bleachers and sang the final line before being pulled beneath the stage, surrounded by smoke. The show ended with "World peace" appearing on the ground screens with an image of the continents. Background [ edit ] Lucas Oil Stadium (/wiki/Lucas_Oil_Stadium) , the venue for Super Bowl XLVI (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XLVI) According to CBS News (/wiki/CBS_News) , Madonna had been asked to perform in the 1999 (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XXXIII) and 2001 (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XXXV) Super Bowl halftime shows but canceled both. [3] (#cite_note-rumor-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) In January 2001 she was scheduled to perform her new single, " American Pie (/wiki/American_Pie_(song)#Madonna_version) ", at the Super Bowl XXXV halftime show. However, she withdrew from the commitment due to a conflict with her recording schedule. In a statement at the time, Madonna expressed "sincere apologies" to the league and said: "I look forward to the possibility of doing something with the NFL in the future." [5] (#cite_note-5) In late 2011 Madonna was busy with the release of her film W.E. (/wiki/W.E.) and with recording her twelfth studio album, MDNA (/wiki/MDNA_(album)) . [6] (#cite_note-6) The singer was reportedly signed by the NFL for the Super Bowl (/wiki/Super_Bowl) halftime show, and in December the league confirmed that Madonna would perform in the Super Bowl XLVI (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XLVI) halftime show at Lucas Oil Stadium in Indianapolis (/wiki/Indianapolis) . [7] (#cite_note-announce-7) The game was scheduled for February 5, 2012, and its organizers continued their practice of inviting global musicians to perform. Artists who had previously performed in the show included the Black Eyed Peas (/wiki/The_Black_Eyed_Peas) , Bruce Springsteen (/wiki/Bruce_Springsteen) , the Rolling Stones (/wiki/The_Rolling_Stones) , the Who (/wiki/The_Who) , Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers (/wiki/Tom_Petty_and_the_Heartbreakers) , U2 (/wiki/U2) , Paul McCartney (/wiki/Paul_McCartney) and Prince (/wiki/Prince_(musician)) . [7] (#cite_note-announce-7) The show coincided with the release of W.E. in United States. [7] (#cite_note-announce-7) Madonna collaborated with Cirque du Soleil (/wiki/Cirque_du_Soleil) to produce the show, and her longtime choreographer Jamie King (/wiki/Jamie_King) was its music director. [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-nfl12-9) King suggested hiring Moment Factory (/wiki/Moment_Factory) . The production studio, which had worked on Celine Dion (/wiki/Celine_Dion) 's Las Vegas (/wiki/Las_Vegas) residency shows (/wiki/Residency_show) , specializes in multimedia effects. [10] (#cite_note-cbc-10) Jacques Methe, Cirque du Soleil executive producer for special events, said that it was "contributing to the creative process that will lead to the creation of this very special moment ... For us, it's an interesting opportunity. It's not something that we do very often, working with other stars". [10] (#cite_note-cbc-10) According to Methe, Cirque du Soleil was involved with the creative side of the halftime show and its logistical challenges. The circus had previously put together a nine-minute pregame show at the 2007 Super Bowl. "Our work has been done mostly to help magnify and create an environment for the artists", said Moment Factory executive producer Eric Fournier, citing shows in which the studio had used lighting and video projections for special effects. [10] (#cite_note-cbc-10) Development [ edit ] Rehearsals [ edit ] We had a lot of rehearsals — intense rehearsals. It wasn't like [Madonna] was standing there with a whip but you knew it was going to be her biggest show so I understand she was nervous. —Nicki Minaj, on rehearsing for the show [11] (#cite_note-11) Rehearsals began in January 2012 in a New York studio, and lasted for 12 hours. Rappers Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) and M.I.A. (/wiki/M.I.A._(rapper)) , who had collaborated on Madonna's single "Give Me All Your Luvin ' ", said that the rehearsals were "the most grueling thing [they had] ever done and wouldn't expect anything else, calling it an 'epic learning experience ' ". [12] (#cite_note-12) Minaj confirmed her performance in the show with a Twitter message, and rapper will.i.am (/wiki/Will.i.am) confirmed that the American electronic dance music (/wiki/Electronic_dance_music) group LMFAO (/wiki/LMFAO) would also join Madonna for the event. [13] (#cite_note-13) According to the Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) , the NFL had coyly revealed the show's set list in its magazine: "Though Madonna's set list was not officially announced at press time, fans might expect her to give all her luvin', provide a ray of light and be in vogue with her music". [14] (#cite_note-set-14) Before the show, Madonna expressed concern about the physical and time constraints of the event. "I have eight minutes to set up my stage, 12 minutes to put on the greatest show on Earth, and I have seven minutes to take it down. So, that football field is clean for the second half of the game", she said. "How do you do that? This is a Midwesterner girls dream to be performing at the Super Bowl half-time show. In over 25 years of performing that I've done, I have never worked so hard or been so scrupulous or detail-orientated or freaked out." [14] (#cite_note-set-14) [15] (#cite_note-vidtele-15) The singer's plan to have 100 drummers descend from the stadium ceiling was canceled, since the structure could not support the weight. [14] (#cite_note-set-14) Fashion [ edit ] Madonna had promised that there would be no wardrobe malfunction (/wiki/Wardrobe_malfunction) during the show, alluding to controversy surrounding Janet Jackson (/wiki/Janet_Jackson) 's performance in the Super Bowl XXXVIII halftime show (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XXXVIII_halftime_show_controversy) . [15] (#cite_note-vidtele-15) Madonna's show's fashion theme was the Roman Empire, with gladiator influences combined with modern Roman elements. [16] (#cite_note-Roman-16) Costume designer B. Akerlund created the dresses. [17] (#cite_note-Arr-17) Akerlund called on other designers to contribute to the costumes, which included Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) , boots by Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) and earrings by Bvlgari (/wiki/Bvlgari) . [18] (#cite_note-Fashions-18) She worked closely with Madonna, who was involved with details including costuming the show's gladiators. According to Akerlund: Madonna on a throne during the entrance, wearing a pleated overskirt designed by Riccardo Tisci (/wiki/Riccardo_Tisci) for Givenchy This was by far the biggest challenge I have ever taken on in my career, and I could not be more honored to be a part of such an amazing and historical event. Nothing could ever come close to working with Madonna on this Super Bowl performance, her attention to detail and commitment to all of her projects is truly inspiring and life changing. [19] (#cite_note-prfas-19) Madonna's first dress was black, with a gold-colored, pleated overskirt (/wiki/Overskirt) designed by Riccardo Tisci (/wiki/Riccardo_Tisci) for Givenchy. The singer wore heavy jewelry, her blonde hair long and tightly waved, with diamond earrings by Bvlgari. [20] (#cite_note-hrfa-20) [21] (#cite_note-21) Her first costume also had a gold-sequined cape with a leopard-print chiffon lining and Philip Treacy (/wiki/Philip_Treacy) headgear. For "Give Me All Your Luvin ' ", Madonna, Minaj and M.I.A. wore red-and-black cheerleader outfits and carried gold-colored pom-poms. The singer wore a long-sleeved black gown over the short black dress for her last performance. [20] (#cite_note-hrfa-20) Riccardo Tisci said that he had made all of Madonna's clothes, gloves, belts, hats and underwear. He had 28 choices for the singer, who decided on the gold cape. Although Tisci and his team had designed a shorter version of the cape, they had to re-do it for the singer. [22] (#cite_note-22) The performance featured 100 drumline (/wiki/Drumline) performers, 150 gladiators (who wore black Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) underwear) and 200 choir singers. [23] (#cite_note-mtv2-23) Stage setup [ edit ] The stage being set up for the halftime show and... ... the final stage after completion The 1,500 crew members were allotted seven minutes to set up the stage, with the California-based Torrence All Access Staging and Productions handling the required equipment. Erik Eastland of the company, who oversaw the setup, had been associated with the Grammy Awards (/wiki/Grammy_Awards) and the Daytime Emmy Awards (/wiki/Daytime_Emmy_Awards) . About 70 percent of the workers were volunteers who underwent six months of screening, and the remainder were stage-vendor employees. The main stage was 120 feet (36.6 m) long and modular, assembled in segments from six large trucks. The crew also set up the lighting, video, special effects and audio equipment. [24] (#cite_note-eastland-24) The challenge may come from working outside in the elements. It could be 50 degrees when we rehearse and 50 below on game day, we're working under the pretext that we can be doing this in snow or rain ... In a normal indoor environment we have seven minutes to install the stage and get it camera ready. That can be stretched to nine minutes. It's the same time frame for this. [24] (#cite_note-eastland-24) According to setup coordinator Douglas Cook, the rehearsals enabled them to reduce the setup time to under five minutes. Cook, who had worked on previous halftime shows, understood the details and guided the team. Drawings of the performances depicted what was expected for each setup, with the volunteers assembling the stage in segments and moving them to the field with carts. Madonna's entrance had to be rehearsed several times for coordination. Although Cook learned during the game that the New England Patriots (/wiki/2011_New_England_Patriots_season) were scheduled to exit on the route used by volunteers carrying the stage equipment, he resolved the issue by talking with the team. [25] (#cite_note-25) Set designer Bruce Rodgers, who had worked with Madonna on the Drowned World Tour (/wiki/Drowned_World_Tour) in 2001, was familiar with the singer's work ethic. Rodgers, director Hamish Hamilton (/wiki/Hamish_Hamilton_(director)) and executive producer Ricky Kirshner (/wiki/Ricky_Kirshner) met several times with Madonna's team, represented by choreographer Jamie King (who presented the show's initial concept). Rodgers developed a large, cross-shaped stage with a central platform accessible by five hidden lifts, bleachers (/wiki/Bleacher) with an escape system at the rear, four positions for the band to play, an area for slacklining (/wiki/Slacklining) at one edge and ramps at the two ends of the cross. At the front of the stage was a 149 ft × 90 ft (45 m × 27 m) white fabric, the main screen for the Moment Factory projections. Props included a Jimmie Martin-designed gold-leaf throne on a barge carried by 150 gladiators (/wiki/Gladiator) . Rodgers' greatest challenges were getting the barge onstage and rehearsing the procession. [26] (#cite_note-26) Multimedia and video [ edit ] During " Like a Prayer (/wiki/Like_a_Prayer_(song)) ", projection mapping (/wiki/Projection_mapping) was used to achieve an effect which made the stage seem "to suck up the grass and chalk from the football field". [27] (#cite_note-fast-27) The stage used multimedia projection and technology conceived by Moment Factory and Cirque du Soleil. After Madonna's entrance, the ground and stage floor revealed animated Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) magazine covers featuring the singer. The effect was achieved by projection mapping (/wiki/Projection_mapping) , which turns an object (often irregularly-shaped) into a surface for video projection. Although projection mapping had been used to introduce the Nokia Lumia (/wiki/Nokia_Lumia) and project images of NBA players (/wiki/Lists_of_National_Basketball_Association_players) on the Hudson River in 2011, it had never been used on such a large scale. Moment Factory partner and executive producer Eric Fournier said that since the studio had been associated with technology-dependent shows, preparing for and accommodating the requirements of the Super Bowl were easy. When Moment Factory began the halftime-show preparations, Madonna's team had already selected the songs, and the studio developed visual effects complementing the songs' choreography. [27] (#cite_note-fast-27) According to Moment Factory creative director Sakchin Bessette, using video projections was the most efficient method for the visual effects, as this required moving less equipment to the field than other methods. [28] (#cite_note-vice-28) Fournier said, "It all came from the decision at the beginning to make a show out of it, not just a performance. Madonna's a perfectionist, and she wanted to do something extraordinary, so that was the objective of everybody." [27] (#cite_note-fast-27) The show's major concepts included the shifting magazine covers, the Egyptian-inspired procession, "intergalactic" boomboxes (/wiki/Boombox) during " Music (/wiki/Music_(Madonna_song)) " and an effect which made the "stage appear to suck up the grass and chalk from the football field". [27] (#cite_note-fast-27) Some visuals were synchronized with the dancers and Madonna's movements. [27] (#cite_note-fast-27) [28] (#cite_note-vice-28) When the visuals were decided, the Moment Factory and Cirque du Soleil staff watched the performances closely to adapt the backdrops to the choreography. Fournier relied on a "disciplined" team enlisted by the NFL and experienced with the video setup, which totaled 32 HD (/wiki/High-definition_video) Barco (/wiki/Barco_(manufacturer)) projectors. The projectors were attached to eight pods of four projectors each to cover the entire stadium. Barco's Projector Toolset was used to operate the screens and display the show's videos. [27] (#cite_note-fast-27) [29] (#cite_note-barco-29) According to Fournier, "On TV there were a lot of closeups of Madonna and the dancers, but from the audience in the stadium, the show covered 50 yards. That was the idea: that the show, in essence, must eclipse the size of the stadium." [27] (#cite_note-fast-27) A consistent 10 to 12 people worked on the project to create, in essence, two shows: one for those at the stadium and one for the TV audience. Moment Factory coordinated with the show's producers so it would be projected properly on television. Bessette said that the video resolution of the videos was very high (almost 18 times that of normal high definition) and moving the video files (/wiki/Digital_container_format) to proper locations was a problem: "We had to find a solution that would be spectacular and that would fit within those parameters". [28] (#cite_note-vice-28) [30] (#cite_note-torontostar-30) Rodgers used LMG, Inc (/wiki/LMG,_Inc) for video, light and audio equipment. LMG, in turn, collaborated with the live-event production company DWP Live on the show's projection. According to DWP founder Danny Whetstone, using Barco helped with seamless projection and brightness adjustment: "It was essential that we hang the projectors straight down, 151 feet in the air, lens to field, in order to fill the enormous visual area with the converged image". Barco's HD20 has a 20,000- lumen (/wiki/Lumen_(unit)) lighting capacity, rendering clear, bright images with high contrast. [29] (#cite_note-barco-29) Lighting and sound [ edit ] Madonna had a definite and very strong idea of what she wanted, and the design was driven very largely by that. We ended with an amalgamation of our original concepts to deliver her vision, and I knew I would do something different, depending on which songs were sung, and that was decided rather late in the scheme of things. [31] (#cite_note-lighting-31) —Lighting designer Al Gurdon, on the show's conceptualization Lucas Oil Stadium was equipped with Sharpys lighting arrangements from Clay Paky (/wiki/Clay_Paky) for the halftime show. [32] (#cite_note-claypaky-32) Lighting designer Al Gurdon of Incandescent Designs enlisted console group PRG to help him install 204 Sharpys across the main stage. According to Gurdon, Madonna conceived the main idea; the choreography-driven show, centered on the main stage, was less logistically challenging than those in previous years. However, Gurdon had to ensure that the audience could enjoy the show from a distance and that Madonna was highlighted properly for the cameras. [32] (#cite_note-claypaky-32) He and board operator Mike Owen brainstormed in England and tried a number of schemes for a week with CAST software (/wiki/CAST_tool) . [31] (#cite_note-lighting-31) A "cleaner" approach was taken to prevent interference between the video projections and lighting. Gurdon placed the Sharpys together in rectangular areas, with 16 to 20 lights in each. This resulted in a strong, compact, moving light which could be split into smaller beams as needed. [32] (#cite_note-claypaky-32) Since the arrangement had to be set up in seven minutes, Gurdon developed a rig (/wiki/Fly_system) . He flew equipment to the roof of Lucas Oil, attaching it at a height of 175 feet (53.3 m) so that it would not interfere with camera movement during the game. At halftime, it was lowered to light the stadium. Golden light was used for the opening sequence, followed by black and white strobes for "Vogue". A multicolored palette illuminated "Music", and red predominated during "Give Me All Your Luvin ' ". " Like a Prayer (/wiki/Like_a_Prayer_(song)) " had another stream of gold Sharpys, evoking rays of sunlight. [31] (#cite_note-lighting-31) Color scrollers (/wiki/Color_scroller) used during "Music" Sennheiser (/wiki/Sennheiser) sound equipment was used for the audio. According to Matt Napier, Madonna's monitor engineer, they used Sennheiser's Wireless Systems Manager software to tweak frequencies. Madonna used an HSP 4 headset at the beginning of the show, later switching to a Sennheiser SKM 5200-II handheld transmitter. Sennheiser transmitters were also used by Minaj, M.I.A. and LMFAO, and Green's microphone used an MD 5235 capsule. Napier said in a Mix (/wiki/Mix_(magazine)) article that they needed gold-plated transmitters for Madonna and Green, which were provided by Sennheiser the day of the show. [33] (#cite_note-33) Professional Wireless Systems (PWS), a Masque Sound company, were in charge of wireless sound monitoring; in a series of trial runs, PWS chose a frequency that eliminated interference from other systems. [34] (#cite_note-34) According to LMG (/wiki/LMG,_Inc) video technologist Ken Gay, lighting, sound and television teams met at the Orange County Convention Center (/wiki/Orange_County_Convention_Center) to test the setup. They used simple fabrics on the ground to test the lighting projections for the stage. Sakchin Bessette had samples to be used for projections, which helped LMG in its tests. The team's Mark Sanford monitored the cameras for any reflections from the fabric caused by the projections, calculating their effect during the show and adjusting camera placement accordingly. LMG tested the projection pods used from the ceilings at its Orlando headquarters. The pods were positioned 150 feet (46 m) above the ground, using the fabric from the previous test. Concerned that the stadium grass would affect the projections, the company used Heavy Knit Bright White fabric from All Access. [35] (#cite_note-35) Critical response [ edit ] The halftime show was critically acclaimed. [36] (#cite_note-homes-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-38) Said Marc Schneider of Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) : "It's Madonna Louise Ciccone's world, we're just living in it". [39] (#cite_note-39) Randall Roberts of the Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) wrote that although the choice of Madonna as halftime-show performer was a subject of discussion, the singer was "defiantly unconcerned with the more conservative red state wing of the football fanbase who'd never be caught dead singing along to one of her songs ... and her halftime show was pure spectacle by the Cleopatra of the game ... Madonna is Madonna for a reason. And we saw it firsthand Sunday." [40] (#cite_note-40) Chicago Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Tribune) critic Greg Kot (/wiki/Greg_Kot) called the show an "S&M party in Ancient Egypt (/wiki/Ancient_Egypt) ". Along with reminding the audience of her older hits, Madonna had "important career-advancing work to do ... [The singer], after all, never does anything unless she's got something to sell, and with a new studio album due out in March and a tour to follow, she had plenty on her to-do list". [41] (#cite_note-41) Jon Pareles (/wiki/Jon_Pareles) of The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) wrote that although the singer was not as "indefatigable" as she had been, she was a "party girl turned regent: a queen on her throne, a homecoming queen strutting in the bleachers, a church singer fronting a choir". Pareles called Madonna "grown-up", and wrote that she put on a show appropriate for the NFL. [42] (#cite_note-42) Madonna and LMFAO during the mash-up (/wiki/Mashup_(music)) of "Music" and "Sexy and I Know It" Ken Tucker (/wiki/Ken_Tucker) of Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) said that Madonna delivered a "joyous, unironic, openhearted" show rather than a cautious performance. According to Tucker, the singer was in "full command"; although the visuals lacked flow, the song transitions meshed "perfectly". [43] (#cite_note-43) Neil McCormick of The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) called the show a "tribute to Madonna" and a "shameless" promotion of the singer's return to the music scene after directing W.E. : "The message [of the show] is that she is back in business. I suspect she'd settle for a global number one over global harmony". [44] (#cite_note-44) Troy Patterson of Slate (/wiki/Slate_(magazine)) wrote that Madonna retained her "greatest marketing agent" title with the show and praised its costumes, sets and the singer's repeated self-referencing. [45] (#cite_note-45) Linda Holmes of NPR (/wiki/NPR) said, "What's curious, given how much 'ewww, she's too old' stuff went around on Twitter, is that everything she did Sunday night is exactly what it should mean to age gracefully". [46] (#cite_note-46) Miriam Coleman of Rolling Stone (/wiki/Rolling_Stone) called the show a "serious spectacle", [47] (#cite_note-47) and Mario Tarradell of The Dallas Morning News (/wiki/The_Dallas_Morning_News) called it a "high-concept music video": "Madonna brilliantly manipulates the combined impact of visuals and sonics. The 13-minute performance was an eye-popping marvel". [48] (#cite_note-48) A Huffington Post (/wiki/The_Huffington_Post) reviewer wrote, "Love her or hate her, there's no doubt that only Madonna can bring a certain level of pop flair to a performance". [49] (#cite_note-49) Spencer Kornhaber of The Atlantic (/wiki/The_Atlantic) praised the show's choreography and cinematography: "With so, so much to look at, Madonna remained the center of attention. That is, until the end, when white light and smoke engulfed her and she dropped down through the stage, out of sight". [50] (#cite_note-50) According to Joey Guerra of the Houston Chronicle (/wiki/Houston_Chronicle) , Madonna controlled her nerves and he liked her selection of songs. [51] (#cite_note-51) Peter Robinson of The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) called the performance low-key for the singer, despite the large audience. Robinson wrote that the show's budget would "[make] your average James Cameron (/wiki/James_Cameron) effort look like Homes Under the Hammer (/wiki/Homes_Under_the_Hammer) ", and called Madonna's entrance and exit his favorite parts of the show. [52] (#cite_note-52) Cara Kelly of The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) gave the show a mixed review; although it was "revolutionary" after Janet Jackson's wardrobe malfunction, it was a "pathetic attempt at a comeback". [53] (#cite_note-53) According to Lou Harry of the Indianapolis Business Journal (/wiki/Indianapolis_Business_Journal) , Madonna lacked focus and energy and the audience response was lukewarm. Harry called the show an "awkward celebration", but praised its overall production. [54] (#cite_note-54) USA Today (/wiki/USA_Today) ' s Elyssa Gardner wrote, "Madonna herself, stylish but hardly provocative in tailored tops and skirts that showed off her yoga-toned gams, delivered [the songs] and other flourishes with a winking sense of humor". [55] (#cite_note-55) David Zurawik (/wiki/David_Zurawik) of The Baltimore Sun (/wiki/The_Baltimore_Sun) called the show "Madonna's zombie halftime", criticizing its song choices and overall concept: "[Madonna's] acting as if she's almost singing. I say almost, because there is not a whit of artistic aspiration in the star performer or the production as far I can tell. But hey, that's our sad-sack, super-sized, gross American culture these days, isn't it. And it is perfectly suited for empty Super Bowl half-time spectacle". [56] (#cite_note-56) Commercial impact [ edit ] Madonna performs " Open Your Heart (/wiki/Open_Your_Heart_(Madonna_song)) " and " Express Yourself (/wiki/Express_Yourself_(Madonna_song)) " with CeeLo Green (/wiki/CeeLo_Green) and the Center Grove High School (/wiki/Center_Grove_High_School) drum line Like previous performers, Madonna was not paid for the show. According to Zack O'Malley Greenburg (/wiki/Zack_O%27Malley_Greenburg) of Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) , "Typically, the entertainers for the Super Bowl do not get a cash payment ... This is the kind of exposure that entertainers would give their right arm for; they could do 20 Leno (/wiki/The_Tonight_Show_with_Jay_Leno) and Letterman (/wiki/The_David_Letterman_Show) appearances and still not reach that [kind of] audience". Greenburg wrote that with 30-second commercial spots commanding over $3 million apiece, the 12 minutes of free television exposure had a total value of $84 million for Madonna's enterprises and the singer did not have to pay for accommodations, travel, backup dancers, stage setup, advertising and publicity: "Given all these benefits, playing the Super Bowl halftime show for free is more than worth the trouble. In fact, it's incredibly lucrative – and such a good deal for artists that some suspect a major change might be on the horizon". [57] (#cite_note-57) Madonna's performance was the most-watched Super Bowl halftime show in history, with 114 million viewers – more than the game itself, which had 111.3 million viewers. [58] (#cite_note-58) It reached more than 47 million homes. [36] (#cite_note-homes-36) According to the Nielsen ratings (/wiki/Nielsen_ratings) , the show had a 47.4 household rating; among adults 18–49 it had a 41.5 rating, compared with the game average of 40.5. Tim Kenneally from Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) noted that the half-hour from 9:30 to 9:58 ET peaked at a 50.7 household rating and a 72 share, with 117.7 million viewers. [59] (#cite_note-59) The record was later broken by Bruno Mars (/wiki/Bruno_Mars) in 2014 (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XLVIII_halftime_show) (115 million) and Katy Perry (/wiki/Katy_Perry) in 2015 (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XLIX_halftime_show) (118 million). [60] (#cite_note-60) Madonna set a record as the most-tweeted subject on Twitter (10,245 posts in one second, with an average of 8,000 tweets per second for five minutes) and was the most-searched term on Google during the show. [61] (#cite_note-61) Wired (/wiki/Wired_(website)) CEO Mark Ghuneim tweeted that less than one-third of the tweets were negative, 59 percent were positive and 11 percent were neutral. According to Billboard , the day after the show its ratings and economic impact were discussed. [62] (#cite_note-62) The show's chief impact was on Madonna's music. Keith Caulfield of Billboard wrote that about 50,000 pre-orders for Madonna's 12th studio album, MDNA (/wiki/MDNA_(album)) , were placed within three days of its availability on the iTunes Store (/wiki/ITunes_Store) . That week, according to Nielsen SoundScan, "Give Me All Your Luvin ' " had 115,000 digital downloads and the singer's catalog of older albums had a 410 percent increase in sales (from 5,000 to 26,000 copies). A week after the Super Bowl, "Give Me All Your Luvin ' " had an additional 165,000 digital downloads (a 44-percent increase) and her other songs sold a combined 166,000 copies (up from 94,000 the previous week). [63] (#cite_note-63) "Give Me All Your Luvin ' " reached number ten on the Billboard Hot 100 (/wiki/Billboard_Hot_100) singles chart; the singer's 38th top-ten hit, it increased her record as the artist with the most top-ten singles on the chart. [64] (#cite_note-64) Madonna's back catalog of albums also had increased sales due to discounting and publicity generated by the single and her performance. Billboard estimated that her top-10 digital sales collectively increased over 1,700 percent. [65] (#cite_note-65) Madonna's bestselling album was the 2009 greatest-hits collection, Celebration (/wiki/Celebration_(Madonna_album)) , which sold 16,000 copies (up 1,341 percent) and reentered the Billboard 200 (/wiki/Billboard_200) album chart. [66] (#cite_note-66) The following week Celebration fell 105 spots on the chart to number 157, with sales falling to 4,000 copies. "Give Me All Your Luvin ' " fell to number 39 on the Hot 100, with sales falling by 58 percent to 69,000 copies. [67] (#cite_note-67) The show affected slacklining; The New York Times reported, "[Andy Lewis] and his sport had never appeared before an audience like the one commanded by Madonna at halftime of the Super Bowl". According to professional slackliner Frankie Najera, "That was by far the biggest thing that has happened for the sport". [68] (#cite_note-68) M.I.A. controversy [ edit ] Madonna dancing with pom-poms during "Give Me All Your Luvin ' ". M.I.A. ( front ) showed her middle finger (/wiki/Finger_(gesture)) to the camera near the end of her verse. M.I.A. extended her middle finger (/wiki/Finger_(gesture)) to the camera near the end of her verse in "Give Me All Your Luvin ' " instead of singing the word "shit", [69] (#cite_note-69) [70] (#cite_note-70) and the media compared the incident to Janet Jackson's 2004 wardrobe malfunction (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XXXVIII_halftime_show_controversy) . According to People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) , "Call it a finger malfunction? Madonna was supposed to be the center of attention during the Super Bowl halftime show Sunday, but the Queen of Pop was upstaged by her collaborator M.I.A., who flipped off the camera at one point during the performance, prompting swift apologies from the NFL and NBC." [71] (#cite_note-71) [72] (#cite_note-72) [73] (#cite_note-73) Madonna expressed her disappointment in an interview with host Ryan Seacrest (/wiki/Ryan_Seacrest) on his talk show, On Air with Ryan Seacrest (/wiki/On_Air_with_Ryan_Seacrest) . She said that it was a "teenager ... irrelevant thing" for M.I.A. to do, and was "out of place" in the show: [74] (#cite_note-74) "I was really surprised. I didn't know anything about it. I wasn't happy about it. I understand it's punk rock (/wiki/Punk_rock) and everything, but to me there was such a feeling of love and good energy and positivity; it seemed negative." [75] (#cite_note-75) According to NFL spokesman Brian McCarthy, "Our system was late to obscure the inappropriate gesture and we apologize to our viewers. The NFL hired the talent and produced the halftime show. There was a failure in NBC's delay system. The obscene gesture in the performance was completely inappropriate, very disappointing, and we apologize to our fans". McCarthy said that the gesture was not made during rehearsals, and M.I.A. improvized it on stage. [76] (#cite_note-76) The Federal Communications Commission (/wiki/Federal_Communications_Commission) received 222 complaints about the rapper's gesture, and Rolling Stone reported that the commission might "punish" the NFL and NBC despite their apologies. Any fine imposed on the NFL would be charged to M.I.A., since the rapper had signed a contract indemnifying the league against FCC fines. [77] (#cite_note-77) A year later, it was reported that the NFL had filed a $1.5 million arbitration claim against M.I.A. for "breach of her contract and flagrant disregard for the values that form the cornerstone of the NFL brand and the Super Bowl". Her lawyer, Howard King, filed a counterclaim calling the NFL's action "hilarious in light of the weekly felonies committed by its stars". M.I.A. enlisted the help of fans in documenting objectionable actions by the NFL to refute the league's claim of damage to its reputation. [78] (#cite_note-78) In September 2013, M.I.A. released a video statement about the lawsuit. The rapper said, "They're basically [saying] it's OK for me to promote being sexually exploited as a female, than to display empowerment, female empowerment, through being punk rock. That's what it boils down to, and I'm being sued for it". [79] (#cite_note-http-79) In March 2014, Rolling Stone reported that the NFL had added $15 million to its arbitration claim for a total of $16.6 million. M.I.A. said on Twitter that the NFL wanted a portion of her income, which lacked "any basis in law, fact, or logic", and blamed NBC for its "dereliction" in not blurring out the gesture during the live telecast. [80] (#cite_note-80) M.I.A. tweeted Madonna with a request to borrow $16 million, later deleting the tweet. [81] (#cite_note-81) In August 2014, ESPN (/wiki/ESPN) reported that the NFL had reached a confidential agreement with M.I.A. Neither attorney Howard King nor the NFL provided any further details. [82] (#cite_note-82) Set list [ edit ] " Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(Madonna_song)) " " Music (/wiki/Music_(Madonna_song)) " / Party Rock Anthem (/wiki/Party_Rock_Anthem) " (featuring LMFAO (/wiki/LMFAO) , contains elements of " Sexy and I Know It (/wiki/Sexy_and_I_Know_It) ") " Give Me All Your Luvin' (/wiki/Give_Me_All_Your_Luvin%27) " (featuring Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) and M.I.A. (/wiki/M.I.A._(rapper)) ) " Open Your Heart (/wiki/Open_Your_Heart_(Madonna_song)) " / " Express Yourself (/wiki/Express_Yourself_(Madonna_song)) " (featuring CeeLo Green (/wiki/CeeLo_Green) , the Avon High School (/wiki/Avon_High_School_(Indiana)) Drumline, the Center Grove High School (/wiki/Center_Grove_High_School) Drumline, the Fishers High School (/wiki/Fishers_High_School) Drumline and the Franklin Central High School (/wiki/Franklin_Central_High_School) Drumline) " Like a Prayer (/wiki/Like_a_Prayer_(song)) " (featuring CeeLo Green and a choir of 200 local Indianapolis singers) Source for the set list performed at the show. [83] (#cite_note-creditspersonnel-83) Personnel [ edit ] Hamish Hamilton (/wiki/Hamish_Hamilton_(director)) – director Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) – performer Maya Arulpragasam (/wiki/M.I.A._(rapper)) – performer (as M.I.A.) Sofia Boutella (/wiki/Sofia_Boutella) – dancer Darren Lee Cupp – gladiator CeeLo Green (/wiki/CeeLo_Green) – performer Andy Lewis (/wiki/Andy_Lewis_(performer)) – slackliner LMFAO (/wiki/LMFAO) – performers Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) – performer Brahim Zaibat (/wiki/Brahim_Zaibat) – dancer Ricky Kirshner (/wiki/Ricky_Kirshner) – executive producer Bruce Rodgers – production Anthony Bishop – art direction Douglas Cook – art direction Shelley Rodgers – art direction Bea Akerlund – costumes Rob Paine – executive in charge of production Lindsey Breslauer – assistant art director Robert T. Barnhart – lighting director Kevin French – Jib camera operator David Grill – lighting director Alex Gurdon – lighting designer Jay Kulick – camera operator Michael Owen – lighting director Matt Beckner – talent manager Julia Blanford – production assistant Rob Crawford – audience producer Josh Hughes – production assistant Jamie King (/wiki/Jamie_King) – creative director / show director Eric Mentis – production assistant Troy Mosley – field choreographer Angelo Ruzzo – production coordinator Rod Wardell – technical director Credits and personnel adapted from the halftime show's name reel. [83] (#cite_note-creditspersonnel-83) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Atkinson, Katie (September 29, 2016). "Lady Gaga Will Be the 5th Woman to Headline Super Bowl Halftime Show" (https://www.billboard.com/articles/news/super-bowl/7526453/lady-gaga-super-bowl-halftime-female-headliners-beyonce-madonna-katy-diana/) . Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) . 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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Shoeshiners (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Shoeshiners) . Category for persons who are or were once known for shining shoes as a profession. NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐8wp6g Cached time: 20240720164454 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.041 seconds Real time usage: 0.074 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 126/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 2449/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 284/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 1202/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.023/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 945107/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 68.401 1 Template:Commons_category 100.00% 68.401 1 -total 97.58% 66.746 1 Template:Sister_project 95.38% 65.238 1 Template:Side_box 6.50% 4.448 1 Template:Replace Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:38598233-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720164454 and revision id 588950116. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Pages in category "Shoeshiners" The following 16 pages are in this category, out of 16 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . * Shoeshiner (/wiki/Shoeshiner) A Antonio Alice (/wiki/Antonio_Alice) D Thomas Dalton (abolitionist) (/wiki/Thomas_Dalton_(abolitionist)) G Ralph Garr (/wiki/Ralph_Garr) Sean Garrison (/wiki/Sean_Garrison) H Pete Herman (/wiki/Pete_Herman) Shoe shiners in Hong Kong (/wiki/Shoe_shiners_in_Hong_Kong) J Emanuel Jaques (/wiki/Emanuel_Jaques) L Albert Lexie (/wiki/Albert_Lexie) M Aregado Mantenque Té (/wiki/Aregado_Mantenque_T%C3%A9) Čika Mišo (/wiki/%C4%8Cika_Mi%C5%A1o) R Mario Rivera Martinó (/wiki/Mario_Rivera_Martin%C3%B3) Dick Rowland (/wiki/Dick_Rowland) S Oscar Smith (actor) (/wiki/Oscar_Smith_(actor)) Vivian De Gurr St George (/wiki/Vivian_De_Gurr_St_George) V Donal Vaughan (/wiki/Donal_Vaughan) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Shoeshiners&oldid=588950116 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Shoeshiners&oldid=588950116) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Personal care and service occupations (/wiki/Category:Personal_care_and_service_occupations) Shoes (/wiki/Category:Shoes) Hidden category: Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata)
This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Kermit_Tesoro) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Kermit_Tesoro) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article includes a list of general references (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) , but it lacks sufficient corresponding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Please help to improve (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Reliability) this article by introducing (/wiki/Wikipedia:When_to_cite) more precise citations. ( May 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) The topic of this article may not meet Wikipedia's notability guideline for biographies (/wiki/Wikipedia:Notability_(people)) . 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Find sources: "Kermit Tesoro" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Kermit+Tesoro%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Kermit+Tesoro%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Kermit+Tesoro%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Kermit+Tesoro%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Kermit+Tesoro%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Kermit+Tesoro%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( May 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Kermit Tesoro Born ( 1988-06-15 ) June 15, 1988 (age 36) Manila (/wiki/Manila) , Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) Nationality Filipino (/wiki/Filipino_people) Education University of the Philippines Diliman (/wiki/University_of_the_Philippines_Diliman) ; Instituto Cervantes de Manila (/wiki/Instituto_Cervantes) ; SoFa Design Institute (/wiki/SoFA_District) ; University of the Arts London (/wiki/University_of_the_Arts_London) Central Saint Martins (/wiki/Central_Saint_Martins) Occupation(s) fashion designer, visual artist Kermit Tesoro (born June 15, 1988 in Manila, Philippines (/wiki/Manila,_Philippines) ) is a Filipino (/wiki/Filipino_people) visual, installation, accessory, and fashion designer (/wiki/Designer) [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-stylebible1-2) known for his wide range of styles where 'installation art meets body art'. He is notable for designing elaborate shoes inspired from environs and wildlife, clothes with kinky Filipinized nature patterns and bases, and installations which use tied-up living human bodies as a form of fetish art. [3] (#cite_note-lifestyle.abs-cbn.com-3) Early life [ edit ] Tesoro had a liking for horticulture (/wiki/Horticulture) since his childhood days, collecting various plant species as he grew up. When he came to the University of the Philippines Diliman (/wiki/University_of_the_Philippines_Diliman) , however, he took up a degree in fine arts (/wiki/Fine_arts) instead and used horticulture as one of his main inspirations in art. In later years, many of his shoes would be honed from the physical characteristics of plants, along with his own interpretation of fetishism. After finishing his degree in 2008, he studied Spanish (/wiki/Spanish_language) at the Instituto Cervantes de Manila (/wiki/Instituto_Cervantes) . He also took a course in marketing (/wiki/Marketing) at the SoFa Design Institute (/wiki/SoFA_District) , the Philippines' first design college. In 2012, he studied fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) at the University of the Arts London (/wiki/University_of_the_Arts_London) Central Saint Martins (/wiki/Central_Saint_Martins) in the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) . [4] (#cite_note-forbes.com-4) Career [ edit ] Tesoro initially came into prominence through his sophisticated shoes that were used by Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) in many of her tours. He has used various mediums in his shoes such as wood, plaster, steel, leather, industrial resin (/wiki/Resin) , coral, and human bones and teeth, all of which have been inspired from natural environs and things found in specific environments. [4] (#cite_note-forbes.com-4) The first artwork he made were 9-inch Filipino clogs or bakya . He made them after being inspired by John Galliano's work with Dior. [5] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-5) In 2009, his art were exhibited by the Alliance Francaise de Manille from Paris titled "Portraits of Shoes, Stories of Feet" (Portraits de Chaussures, Histoires de Pieds): Group Show at the Yuchengco Museum Ayala Makati. [6] (#cite_note-6) In 2011, his art premiered in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) through the Shoes for Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) x Gilt Groupe exhibit. [7] (#cite_note-7) He also collaborated with Leeroy New (/wiki/Leeroy_New) for Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) 's outfit (PFW Holiday 2010) for Marry the Night video and single cover. [8] (#cite_note-8) He was commissioned to design the film and theater costumes of Chris Millado's Zsa Zsa Zaturnnah (/wiki/Zsa_Zsa_Zaturnnah) Ze Musical at the CCP Complex (/wiki/CCP_Complex) . [2] (#cite_note-stylebible1-2) He has participated in the 2012 Metrowear Fashion Show [9] (#cite_note-9) and the Philippine Fashion Week: Holiday 2012, along with getting accepted in the University of the Arts London (/wiki/University_of_the_Arts_London) Central Saint Martins (/wiki/Central_Saint_Martins) College of Arts & Design. [10] (#cite_note-10) He designed the glass beaded body armor for Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) 's Born This Way Ball Tour in Thailand (/wiki/Thailand) and other costumes used in her Manila (/wiki/Manila) tour. [11] (#cite_note-11) A conservative Christian cult group in the Philippines has criticized Tesoro's skull works as 'demonic' as it was used by Lady Gaga. Tesoro retaliated with a new set of provocative art which gained international prominence. [12] (#cite_note-12) In 2013, his works were exhibited in the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) through the Mode Biennale Arnhem (MoBA) - Fetishism in Fashion, launching his career in Europe. His works were featured in the Philippines by ABS-CBN through one of its variety shows. Many of his art were acknowledged by the design industries in the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) , Netherlands, Switzerland, France (/wiki/France) , Austria and Germany, and later featured in ELLE (/wiki/ELLE) US. [13] (#cite_note-13) In 2014, Tesoro was part of an exhibition in Spielzeug Welten Museum in Basel (/wiki/Basel) , Switzerland (/wiki/Switzerland) . In 2015, after travelling to museums in the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) , Germany (/wiki/Germany) , Austria (/wiki/Austria) , Slovakia (/wiki/Slovakia) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) , The Vatican (/wiki/Vatican_City) , Sweden (/wiki/Sweden) , Denmark (/wiki/Denmark) , Finland (/wiki/Finland) , Norway (/wiki/Norway) , Ireland (/wiki/Ireland) , France (/wiki/France) , and Switzerland (/wiki/Switzerland) , [14] (#cite_note-14) Tesoro began creating a new set of art, including the iconic tentacle shoes, Polypodis , which would propel his career in Europe (/wiki/Europe) further. [15] (#cite_note-15) In 2017, Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) featured Tesoro and his works, where he admitted that his works are 'a reflection of erotica and even fetishism, particularly how humans tap into their own sexuality'. He also explained the reason for his elaborate and sometimes disturbing shoes, stating that he used it to express 'mockery of people who used fashion as a way to impress and not as a form of expression'. The magazine called Tesoro the " Avant-Garde Philippine Shoe Artist ". [16] (#cite_note-16) His works were exhibited in Cube Design Museum, in The Netherlands after travelling around the Philippines for inspiration on a new set of art. [17] (#cite_note-17) In 2018, his Polypodis and Equilibria pieces were exhibited in Germany (/wiki/Germany) in Schloss & Park Lichtenwalde, a 'stage for artistic attitudes, high craftsmanship of international artists and designers'. His work was within the exhibition entitled "HIGH HEELS—The High Art of Shoes". [3] (#cite_note-lifestyle.abs-cbn.com-3) Personal life [ edit ] Tesoro lives with a dozen cats. He has a passion for horticulture and art, garnering a collection of cacti, succulents, and carnivorous plants. [5] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-5) Most of his works have been inspired by 'his childhood fixations, world history, nature, science, fetishism and human behavior'. [3] (#cite_note-lifestyle.abs-cbn.com-3) Tesoro is a fan of the Art Nouveau movement. He cited Alphonse Maria Mucha (/wiki/Alphonse_Maria_Mucha) as his inspiration for visual arts; Nicolas Ghesquière (/wiki/Nicolas_Ghesqui%C3%A8re) , Riccardo Tisci (/wiki/Riccardo_Tisci) , Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) , and Ramon Valera for fashion; and Sebastian Bach for music. He considers Atang dela Rama (/wiki/Atang_dela_Rama) , Pacita Delos Reyes, and Rosario Melgar de Luna as style icons. He has described his art as an art that translates 'people's deviations'. Many of his art have exhibited elaborate kinky motifs with hints of vernacular plant designs. [18] (#cite_note-18) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Shopaholic Monster – Kermit Tesoro" (http://shopaholicmonster.weebly.com/kermit-tesoro.html) . Shopaholicmonster.weebly.com. July 14, 2011 . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Stylebible.ph" (http://m.stylebible.ph/fashion/designer-spotlight/kermit-tesoro-for-zsazsa-zaturnnah) . M.stylebible.ph. February 5, 2013 . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Lifestyle" (https://lifestyle.abs-cbn.com/articles/5391/cultured-what-freakish-footwear-these-kermit-tesoro-masterpieces-scream-pinoy-pride/) . ^ Jump up to: a b "Kermit Tesoro: The Avant-Garde Philippine Shoe Artist" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/cmalasig/2017/06/14/kermit-tesoro-the-avant-garde-philippine-shoe-artist/#1586193e8596) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . ^ Jump up to: a b "Kermit Tesoro: The Avant-Garde Philippine Shoe Artist" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/cmalasig/2017/06/14/kermit-tesoro-the-avant-garde-philippine-shoe-artist/#545e3f798596) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "From Imeldific to global, Pinoy shoes are museum-worthy | Sunday Life, Lifestyle Features, The Philippine Star" (http://www.philstar.com/sunday-life/467915/imeldific-global-pinoy-shoes-are-museum-worthy) . Philstar.com. May 17, 2009 . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "KERMIT IN GILT | Fashion – Style Report" (http://www.stylebible.ph/fashion/style-report/kermit-in-gilt/) . Stylebible.ph . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Lady Gaga wears Pinoy designer's creation on album cover" (http://www.abs-cbnnews.com/lifestyle/10/18/11/lady-gaga-wears-pinoy-designers-creation-album-cover) . Abs-cbnnews.com. 18 October 2011 . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Metrowear Rocks The Runway Tonight! › Saga Events, Inc" (http://www.sagaevents.com.ph/2012/05/metrowear-rocks-the-runway-tonight/) . Sagaevents.com.ph. May 2, 2012 . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Top designers take the stage at Philippine Fashion Week | Lifestyle | GMA News Online" (http://www.gmanetwork.com/news/story/259428/lifestyle/fashionandbeauty/top-designers-take-the-stage-at-philippine-fashion-week) . Gmanetwork.com. May 25, 2012 . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "STYLE REPORT: GAGA WEARS KERMIT TESORO | Fashion – Style Report" (http://www.stylebible.ph/fashion/style-report/style-report-gaga-wears-kermit-tesoro/) . Stylebible.ph . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Pinoy designer Kermit Tesoro allegedly bullied by religious group for crafting Lady Gaga's outfits" (https://www.spot.ph/newsfeatures/51399/pinoy-designer-kermit-tesoro-allegedly-bullied-by-religious-group-for-crafting-lady-gagas-outfits) . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Prescod, Danielle (April 1, 2015). "Outrageous Shoes – Outrageous Designer Celebrity Shoes" (http://www.elle.com/fashion/celebrity-style/news/g8295/outrageous-celebrity-shoes/) . Elle.com . Retrieved 2015-04-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Euro-Hopping with Shoe Designer Kermit Tesoro" (https://www.preview.ph/fashion/euro-hopping-with-kermit-tesoro) . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Tentacle shoes support your foot with eight other feet | Boing Boing" (https://boingboing.net/2015/06/26/tentacle-shoes-support-your-fo.html) . 26 June 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Kermit Tesoro: The Avant-Garde Philippine Shoe Artist" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/cmalasig/2017/06/14/kermit-tesoro-the-avant-garde-philippine-shoe-artist/#799c33bd8596) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Kermit Tesoro on Instagram: "Guys, here's the arrival of my work "Polypodis" at the Cube Design Museum, in the Netherlands!" (https://www.instagram.com/p/BewnpNDHBoI/) " (https://www.instagram.com/p/BewnpNDHBoI/) . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Designer Spotlight: Kermit Tesoro" (https://www.preview.ph/fashion/designer-spotlight-kermit-tesoro/page/2) . 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For the British boxer, see Anthony Crolla (/wiki/Anthony_Crolla) . 1980s fashion brand Crolla Company type Private company Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) Crolla Industry Fashion Founded London, England (1981) Founder Scott Crolla, Georgina Godley Defunct c1985 Headquarters London , England Crolla was a 1980s British high fashion brand and boutique founded by Scott Crolla and Georgina Godley in Mayfair (/wiki/Mayfair) 's Dover Street (/wiki/Dover_Street) . Always niche, it was influential for its juxtaposition of unusual and vintage fabrics (often furnishing fabrics) and traditional tailoring. Describing the brand's signature at the time, Scott Crolla said: "My clothes are for someone who disregards fashion but enjoys fabrics… I would call it a calculated disregard for conventional taste." [1] (#cite_note-Ken_Probst-1) In the book London: After Fashion , Alistair O’Neill described the look as: “as odd a combination as Coward in Las Vegas, but it communicated a vision of Englishness just as brashly." [2] (#cite_note-O'Neill-2) History [ edit ] The store’s opening in 1981 coincided with the arrival of the New Romantic (/wiki/New_Romanticism) music/cultural movement. Crolla's use of lavish fabrics and textures on waistcoats, ties, jackets and trousers, including chintz (/wiki/Chintz) , paisley (/wiki/Paisley_(design)) and velvet (/wiki/Velvet) , attracted fans including Boy George (/wiki/Boy_George) , Princess Diana (/wiki/Diana,_Princess_of_Wales) and Isabella Blow (/wiki/Isabella_Blow) . It was also the antithesis (/wiki/Antithesis) of the austere palette and sculptural (/wiki/Sculptural) lines of Japanese brands gaining in popularity at the time, such as Yohji Yamamoto (/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto) and Comme des Garcons (/wiki/Comme_des_Garcons) . [3] (#cite_note-Lutyens-3) [4] (#cite_note-Hunt-4) Initially, the company focused on menswear and, a year after the brand's launch, Ken Probst writing in The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) noted the renewed interest in British fashion created by the success of Brideshead Revisited (/wiki/Brideshead_Revisited_(TV_serial)) and Chariots of Fire (/wiki/Chariots_of_Fire) . Probst singled out Crolla as one of the most interesting of the new crop of men's fashion brands for its traditional cuts and unusual use of fabric, saying: "...its offerings include suits, jackets, shirts, pants, ties and even slippers – all cut in traditional, conservative styles but made out of a rich and diverse collection of fabrics. The unexpected exuberance of the recolored plaids, the hand-woven Indian (/wiki/India) cottons embroidered with silk (/wiki/Silk) and the fabrics from the 1940s and 1950s contrasts with the unchanging designs of the British ‘look', resulting in an innovative fusion of opposing styles." [1] (#cite_note-Ken_Probst-1) Womenswear was added to the collection in 1984, a year before the partnership between Scott Crolla and Georgina Godley was dissolved. [5] (#cite_note-Encyclopedia-5) Their women's designs would enjoy international popularity and influence in 1984 and '85, with Crolla's large cabbage rose prints being copied across the fashion spectrum, from Jean-Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Gaultier) to Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) to more affordable mass-market manufacturers in the United States. [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) After Crolla [ edit ] Godley moved on to design what she called "sport couture", using high-tech fabrics such as Gore-Tex (/wiki/Gore-Tex) and Lycra (/wiki/Lycra) . [8] (#cite_note-Stead-8) Around this time, she also experimented with extreme padding of stomach and bottom for what she called her 'Lump and Bump' collection. [9] (#cite_note-Bowles-9) [10] (#cite_note-evening_dress-10) This was a look that was later popularised by other designers, notably Comme des Garçons (/wiki/Comme_des_Gar%C3%A7ons) . [11] (#cite_note-Bawa-11) [12] (#cite_note-Alexander-12) Godley acted as an advisor for Paul Smith (/wiki/Paul_Smith_(fashion_designer)) and Missoni (/wiki/Missoni) , later working with interiors retailer Habitat (/wiki/Habitat_(retailer)) and as a lecturer at Central Saint Martins (/wiki/Central_Saint_Martins) . [5] (#cite_note-Encyclopedia-5) [13] (#cite_note-Blanchard-13) Crolla won Bath Fashion Museum (/wiki/Fashion_Museum,_Bath) Dress of the Year (/wiki/Dress_of_the_Year) in 1985 for a menswear (/wiki/Menswear) outfit featuring a crushed shirt, velvet (/wiki/Velvet) trousers and ikat (/wiki/Ikat) mules. [14] (#cite_note-Fashion_Museum-14) He designed for a short time for Callaghan. [15] (#cite_note-Schiro-15) Later he moved into interior design (/wiki/Interior_design) with Lionel Bourcelot, launching a company called Ether. Early clients included Vivienne Tam (/wiki/Vivienne_Tam) . [16] (#cite_note-Goodman-16) Legacy [ edit ] Crolla was among the fashion labels featured in the V&A (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) 's 2013 retrospective of 1980s fashion and culture From Club to Catwalk . [17] (#cite_note-WSI-17) Both Godley and Crolla have items of clothing in the museum's permanent collection. [10] (#cite_note-evening_dress-10) [18] (#cite_note-Crolla_jacket-18) Crolla also featured among the earliest pieces in an exhibition about the life and wardrobe of Isabella Blow at Somerset House (/wiki/Somerset_House) that ran from November 2013 – March 2014. [19] (#cite_note-LookingLab-19) [20] (#cite_note-SomersetHouse-20) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Probst, Ken (29 August 1982). "Men's Style by Ken Probst Report From Europe: Breaking With Tradition" (https://www.nytimes.com/1982/08/29/magazine/men-s-style-by-ken-probst-report-from-europe-breaking-with-tradition.html) . New York Times . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-O'Neill_2-0) O'Neill, Alistair (1 March 2007). London:After Fashion . London: Reaktion Books. p. 182. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781861893154 . ^ (#cite_ref-Lutyens_3-0) Lutyens, Dominic (14 September 2003). "Modern Romantic" (https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2003/sep/14/shopping.homes) . The Observer . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Hunt_4-0) Hunt, Jemima (27 September 2010). "Blow by Blow: The story of Isabella Blow" (http://www.newstatesman.com/books/2010/09/issie-blow-family-mcqueen) . New Statesman . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b Almond, Kevin. "Godley, Georgina: British designer" (http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G2-3401400180.html) . Encyclopedia.com . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Gross, Michael (17 December 1985). "Purloined Sweater: A Case of Who Copied Whom First" (https://www.nytimes.com/1985/12/17/style/purloined-sweater-a-case-of-who-copied-whom-first.html) . The New York Times : B12 . Retrieved 4 April 2022 . Early in 1984, Crolla, an English fashion design team, showed a collection of flamboyant tapestry-like floral-print clothes....That March, Jean-Paul Gaultier, the French designer, showed an oversized, hand-embroidered sweater decorated with Crolla-like cabbage roses and geometric borders on the hemline and sleeves....[T]his single design...ascended from the streets of London to a Paris runway, then descended to American mall-quality acrylic... ^ (#cite_ref-7) "The Drumbeats of Fashion" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/magazine/1985/03/10/the-drumbeats-of-fashion/dd54e6c0-8c17-438a-8aef-3087c16ac56f/) . The Washington Post . 10 March 1985 . Retrieved 22 June 2022 . ...[T]he highly publicized chintzes shown this season by Ralph Lauren and Bill Blass are merely confirmations of a trend begun by Crolla... ^ (#cite_ref-Stead_8-0) Stead, Deborah (1 July 1990). "Style Makers; Georgina Godley, Fashion Designer" (https://www.nytimes.com/1990/07/01/style/style-makers-georgina-godley-fashion-designer.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Bowles_9-0) Bowles, Hamish (24 July 2009). "Fete Flo" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140323232600/http://www.vogue.com/culture/article/vd-f234te-fluo/#1) . Vogue . Archived from the original (http://www.vogue.com/culture/article/vd-f234te-fluo/#1) on 23 March 2014 . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Evening dress" (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O83593/evening-dress-godley-georgina/) . description and summary . V&A . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Bawa_11-0) Bawa, Mary. "History of Fashion: Georgina Godley" (http://marybawa.com/historyofashion/godley.html) . Mary Bawa . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Alexander_12-0) Alexander, Hilary (7 March 2010). "Comme des Garçons autumn/winter 2010/11 collection" (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG7391593/Comme-des-Garcons-autumnwinter-201011-collection.html) . Daily Telegraph . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Blanchard_13-0) Blanchard, Tamsin (22 April 2001). "Natural Habitat" (https://www.theguardian.com/theobserver/2001/apr/22/features.magazine37) . The Observer . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Fashion_Museum_14-0) "Fashion Museum – 1980–1989" (https://web.archive.org/web/20141022210022/http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/collections/dress_of_the_year/1980_-_1989.aspx) . Bath Fashion Museum. Archived from the original (http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/collections/dress_of_the_year/1980_-_1989.aspx) on 22 October 2014 . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Schiro_15-0) Schiro, Anne-Marie (7 March 1995). "Review/Fashion; Hollywood on a Runway" (https://www.nytimes.com/1995/03/07/style/review-fashion-hollywood-on-a-runway.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Goodman_16-0) Goodman, Wendy (28 April 2003). "Her Serene Highness" (http://nymag.com/nymetro/shopping/homedesign/features/n_8641/) . New York Magazine . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-WSI_17-0) WSI admin (7 June 2013). "Club to Catwalk" (http://www.wsimagazine.com/uk/diaries/agenda/arts/club-to-catwalk_20130607144411.html#.Uy8ZhseDtPp) . Wall Street International . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Crolla_jacket_18-0) "Jacket" (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O167736/jacket-crolla-scott) . V&A Collection . V&A . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-LookingLab_19-0) "Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! Exhibit" (http://lookinglab.com/isabella-blow-fashion-galore-exhibit/#5) . Looking Lab . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-SomersetHouse_20-0) Events. "Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!" (https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/visual-arts/isabella-blow-fashion-galore) . Somerset House . Retrieved 23 March 2014 . External sources [ edit ] National Portrait Gallery image of Scott Crolla and Georgina Godley (http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw91695/Scott-Crolla-Georgina-Godley) by Nick Knight (/wiki/Nick_Knight_(photographer)) , 1985. Part of Photographs Collection National Portrait Gallery (/wiki/National_Portrait_Gallery,_London) The Look blog (http://rockpopfashion.com/blog/?p=82) Peter Saville (/wiki/Peter_Saville_(graphic_designer)) celebrates Crolla, 2008 Portal (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : 1980s (/wiki/Portal:1980s) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐dc899b7cc‐mcbhd Cached time: 20240720090843 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.593 seconds Real time usage: 0.730 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2190/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 40440/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1098/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 77933/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.398/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6560391/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 686.728 1 -total 43.66% 299.809 1 Template:Reflist 28.98% 199.027 11 Template:Cite_news 20.13% 138.226 1 Template:Infobox_company 18.04% 123.871 1 Template:Infobox 16.21% 111.296 1 Template:Short_description 7.99% 54.837 7 Template:Main_other 7.42% 50.945 1 Template:SDcat 6.96% 47.771 1 Template:For 6.75% 46.323 2 Template:Pagetype Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:42288032-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720090843 and revision id 1186745995. 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This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/MS_Shoes) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:MS_Shoes) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) A major contributor to this article appears to have a close connection (/wiki/Wikipedia:Conflict_of_interest) with its subject. It may require cleanup to comply with Wikipedia's content policies, particularly neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . Please discuss further on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:MS_Shoes) . ( July 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Some of this article's listed sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) may not be reliable (/wiki/Wikipedia:Reliable_sources) . Please help improve this article by looking for better, more reliable sources. Unreliable citations may be challenged and removed. ( July 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) MS Shoes East Ltd. [1] (#cite_note-icicidirect-1) Founded 17 March 1986 [1] (#cite_note-icicidirect-1) Founder Urmil Suri [1] (#cite_note-icicidirect-1) Defunct Active [2] (#cite_note-appuonline-2) Headquarters Delhi (/wiki/Delhi) , India (/wiki/India) Area served Europe, Australia [3] (#cite_note-profile-3) Products Export of shoes and other footwear [1] (#cite_note-icicidirect-1) MS Shoes East Ltd. is a company established in Delhi (/wiki/Delhi) , India (/wiki/India) on 17 March 1986 [1] (#cite_note-icicidirect-1) The main object of the company was to take over running business of exports in the name of Shoes East Propriety. [1] (#cite_note-icicidirect-1) It attracted large investments before collapsing in February 1995. [4] (#cite_note-Ganapathy20030606-4) The Bombay Stock Exchange (/wiki/Bombay_Stock_Exchange) closed for three days after the crash. [5] (#cite_note-citeman2009-5) [6] (#cite_note-moscowtimes-6) [7] (#cite_note-apnewsarchive-7) In 2005, a rehabilitation scheme for the company was devised by the Board for Industrial and Financial Reconstruction (/wiki/Board_for_Industrial_and_Financial_Reconstruction) . Rise and fall [ edit ] Pavan Sachdeva took over his father's Delhi-based shoe export business, mostly serving Western Europe, and launched the company as MS Shoes in 1986. He raised money from investors and borrowed large sums from financial institutions and banks. [4] (#cite_note-Ganapathy20030606-4) [8] (#cite_note-rigging-8) Sachdeva used intriguing ads created by the Delhi branch of Rediffusion (/wiki/Rediffusion) to attract investors. [9] (#cite_note-9) During the period 1986–1993, the company won various export awards from the Council of Leather Exports, from Delhi Administration, and from the National Productivity Council. [1] (#cite_note-icicidirect-1) The company came out with its first public issue (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) in September, 1992, followed by a rights-cum-public issue of fully convertible debentures in November/December, 1993. In February 1995 the company made another rights-cum-public issue. The issue was to finance its diversification, setting up a twin-hotel project and yarn project, but it was undersubscribed and was subsequently devolved. [3] (#cite_note-profile-3) [10] (#cite_note-order-10) Shares were trading at ₹24 in 1993, and peaked at ₹502.5 in January 1995. [4] (#cite_note-Ganapathy20030606-4) The underwriters to the public issue have been held to be liable to the extent of ₹98 crore. [11] (#cite_note-awards-11) Apparently the share prices had been manipulated. [8] (#cite_note-rigging-8) [12] (#cite_note-12) When MS Shoes crashed in March 1995 the collateral effects were so severe that the Bombay Stock Exchange had to be closed for three days. [5] (#cite_note-citeman2009-5) [6] (#cite_note-moscowtimes-6) [7] (#cite_note-apnewsarchive-7) More than ₹270 crores were lost. [4] (#cite_note-Ganapathy20030606-4) Investigations and charges [ edit ] The Central Bureau of Investigation (/wiki/Central_Bureau_of_Investigation) (CBI) started an investigation in 1995. In June 1997 the CBI sought permission from the government to lay charges against senior officials of the Securities and Exchange Board of India (/wiki/Securities_and_Exchange_Board_of_India) (SEBI) and SBI Capital Markets (/wiki/SBI_Capital_Markets) , a subsidiary of the State Bank of India (/wiki/State_Bank_of_India) . [13] (#cite_note-13) Sachdeva was charged with violating the Companies Act and the Prevention of Corruption Act. [4] (#cite_note-Ganapathy20030606-4) The Central Bureau of Investigation filed a closure report on the MS Shoes case in September 1998, which was accepted by the court. [14] (#cite_note-Closure-14) In 2003, the CBI reopened the case. Several civil and criminal charges were filed. [4] (#cite_note-Ganapathy20030606-4) In April 2003 a Delhi Metropolitan Court issued a non-bailable warrant against Sachdeva for failing to pay back money owed to the Indian Air Force Benevolent Association. [15] (#cite_note-15) In June 2003 the Delhi High Court (/wiki/Delhi_High_Court) ordered that the company be sent to the Board for Industrial and Financial Reconstruction (/wiki/Board_for_Industrial_and_Financial_Reconstruction) (BIFR). Few companies survive this process. In November 2005, MS Shoes was declared a sick company (/wiki/Industrial_sickness) by the BIFR, and a plan was drawn up for its rehabilitation. [4] (#cite_note-Ganapathy20030606-4) [10] (#cite_note-order-10) Diversifications [ edit ] Before its collapse, the company attempted the bids floated by Hudco (/wiki/Housing_and_Urban_Development_Corporation_Limited) in July, 1994 for 5 star hotel land and a constructed four star hotel by Hudco comprising 363 rooms, 9 restaurants and 25 shops. The promoter Pavan Sachdeva made a successful bid for the properties. The total bid was ₹177.10 crores for which Hudco issued the allotment letters. When the public issue was devolved, Hudco cancelled the allotments. MS Shoes also attempted to go into the yarn manufacture business. [10] (#cite_note-order-10) The land value of ₹177.10 crores has increased more than ten times. [ citation needed ] MS Shoes has offered to buy the public shares to its existing public shareholders and presently promoters holding is 95%. [10] (#cite_note-order-10) Later development [ edit ] The production and export turnover of MS Shoes increased from ₹25 crores (/wiki/Crore) in 1993 to ₹171.93 crores in 1995. [10] (#cite_note-order-10) The company came up with public issues which were oversubscribed by more than 50 times. The reasons of sickness was devolvement of public issue and cancellation as well as forfeiture by Hudco of the amount paid of ₹68.68 crores by MS Shoes. [10] (#cite_note-order-10) The promoters brought in ₹41.20 crores as on 31.3.2011 and ₹22.08 crores in March, 2014 which have been approved to be converted into equity. [10] (#cite_note-order-10) MS Shoes claims that it has won a 5-star hotel project. [16] (#cite_note-hospitality-16) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Company information (http://content.icicidirect.com/research/myresearch1_frame.asp?icicicode=MSSHOE) , icicidirect.com, retrieved 5 July 2014 ^ (#cite_ref-appuonline_2-0) M S Shoes East Ltd (http://www.appuonline.com/nse/nseshareprice.php?company_name=MSSHOES) stocks at appuonline.com ^ Jump up to: a b Company profile (http://www.indiainfoline.com/Markets/Company/Background/Company-Profile/M-S-Shoes-East-Ltd/523692) at indiainfoline.com, retrieved 5 July 2014 ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Nirmala Ganapathy (6 June 2003). "MS Shoes has gone to the cleaners". The Indian Express . ^ Jump up to: a b V S RAMA RAO (1 July 2009). "Capital Market Scams" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120301030451/http://www.citeman.com/6009-capital-market-scams.html) . Citeman Network . Archived from the original (http://www.citeman.com/6009-capital-market-scams.html) on 1 March 2012 . Retrieved 1 May 2012 . ^ Jump up to: a b Arindram Nag (21 March 1995). "Payments Crisis Shuts Bombay Stock Market" (http://www.themoscowtimes.com/news/article/payments-crisis-shuts-bombay-stock-market/341421.html) . The Moscow Times . Retrieved 3 July 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Head of company arrested for cheating after scandal closes market" (https://apnews.com/618f3207ca9340f4958added9e8f4d89) . Associated Press . 7 April 1995 . Retrieved 3 July 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Rocking the market:Rigging and misinformation by MS Shoes brings BSE to a halt" (http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/rigging-misinformation-by-ms-shoes-brings-india-premier-stock-exchange-bse-to-halt/1/290134.html) . India Today . 15 April 1995 . Retrieved 3 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "A Chronology of Major Stock Scams" (http://archives.digitaltoday.in/businesstoday/20020120/stockmarkets4.html) . Business Today . 20 January 2002 . Retrieved 1 May 2012 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Order (http://bifr.nic.in/asp/sopupload/237_2002_25102013.pdf) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140714235754/http://bifr.nic.in/asp/sopupload/237_2002_25102013.pdf) 14 July 2014 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , Board for Industrial and Financial Reconstruction (/wiki/Board_for_Industrial_and_Financial_Reconstruction) ^ (#cite_ref-awards_11-0) Thomas, Cherian (21 April 1997). "Ms Shoes to Sue Dse over Arbitrator" (http://www.business-standard.com/article/special/ms-shoes-to-sue-dse-over-arbitrator-197042101064) . Business Standard India . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Deepa Mehta. "TACKLING CORRUPTION: AN INDIAN PERSPECTIVE" (http://www.unafei.or.jp/english/pdf/RS_No66/No66_11VE_Mehta2.pdf) (PDF) . United Nations Asia and Far East Institute for the Prevention of Crime and the Treatment of Offenders . Retrieved 1 May 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Gargi Chakrabarty (19 June 1997). "CBI cracks down on SBI Caps, Sebi officials in MS Shoes case" (http://www.business-standard.com/india/news/cbi-cracks-downsbi-caps-sebi-officials-in-ms-shoes-case/48236/) . Business Standard . Retrieved 1 May 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-Closure_14-0) Chakrabarty, Gargi (19 June 1997). "Cbi Cracks Down on Sbi Caps, Sebi Officials in Ms Shoes Case" (http://www.business-standard.com/article/companies/cbi-cracks-dowm-on-sbi-caps-sebi-officeial-in-ms-shoes-case-197061901107) . Business Standard India . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Shoe baron gets NBW for IAF fraud". Indian Express . 19 April 2003. ^ (#cite_ref-hospitality_16-0) "DRT Likely to Auction Ms Shoes Properties" (http://www.business-standard.com/article/special/drt-likely-to-auction-ms-shoes-properties-198061201046) . Business Standard India . 12 June 1998. 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NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐b7d4d997‐j64wx Cached time: 20240629015059 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.002 seconds Real time usage: 0.003 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 0/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 1/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 0/5000000 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 0.000 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:60443201-0!canonical and timestamp 20240629015059 and revision id 996749676. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 2 subcategories, out of 2 total. D Italian fashion designers (/wiki/Category:Italian_fashion_designers) ‎ (4 C, 115 P) G Gucci people (/wiki/Category:Gucci_people) ‎ (13 P) Pages in category "Italian businesspeople in fashion" The following 23 pages are in this category, out of 23 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . A Massimo Alba (/wiki/Massimo_Alba) B Benetton family (/wiki/Benetton_family) Patrizio Bertelli (/wiki/Patrizio_Bertelli) Marco Bizzarri (/wiki/Marco_Bizzarri) Gianni Bulgari (/wiki/Gianni_Bulgari) Giorgio Bulgari (/wiki/Giorgio_Bulgari) Nicola Bulgari (/wiki/Nicola_Bulgari) Paolo Bulgari (/wiki/Paolo_Bulgari) C Emilio Cavallini (/wiki/Emilio_Cavallini) Nino Cerruti (/wiki/Nino_Cerruti) Brunello Cucinelli (/wiki/Brunello_Cucinelli) G Guccio Gucci (/wiki/Guccio_Gucci) K Max Kibardin (/wiki/Max_Kibardin) Marzia Kjellberg (/wiki/Marzia_Kjellberg) L Paola De Luca (/wiki/Paola_De_Luca) M Federico Marchetti (businessman) (/wiki/Federico_Marchetti_(businessman)) Massimo Renon (/wiki/Massimo_Renon) Ottavio Missoni (/wiki/Ottavio_Missoni) R Francesco Rulli (/wiki/Francesco_Rulli) S Stefan Siegel (/wiki/Stefan_Siegel) T Beatrice Trussardi (/wiki/Beatrice_Trussardi) V Leonardo Del Vecchio (/wiki/Leonardo_Del_Vecchio) Santo Versace (/wiki/Santo_Versace) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Italian_businesspeople_in_fashion&oldid=996749676 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Italian_businesspeople_in_fashion&oldid=996749676) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Businesspeople in fashion (/wiki/Category:Businesspeople_in_fashion) Italian businesspeople by industry (/wiki/Category:Italian_businesspeople_by_industry) Italian fashion (/wiki/Category:Italian_fashion)
Clothing designed to accommodate and assist the needs and abilities of disabled people Adaptive clothing is clothing designed around the needs and abilities of people with varying degrees of disability (/wiki/Disability) , including congenital disabilities (/wiki/Birth_defect) , acquired disabilities (such as the result of an injury, illness or accident), age (elderly people may have trouble with opening and closing buttons [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) ) and temporary disabilities, as well as physical disabilities (/wiki/Physical_disability) . Adaptive clothing is influenced by factors such as age, disability type, level of independence, mobility and dexterity, as well as whether a person requires help when dressing, such as from a caregiver (/wiki/Caregiver) . [2] (#cite_note-2) People who struggle with zippers, shoelaces, buttons or even fabrics and texture due to a type of disability may need adaptive clothing. [3] (#cite_note-3) Most adaptive clothing designs are taken from general-market clothing, the comfort of which began to increase in the 1950s, with new technologies such as elastic waistbands and stretchy fabrics. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) Adaptive clothing is utilized by people with a wide range of disabilities, from wheelchair (/wiki/Wheelchair) users and people with visible disabilities to those whose disabilities are not as visible, but still find themselves limited by the construction of typical clothing. Those with autism may experience sensory sensitivities to certain fabrics, which is not a visible ailment. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) There is also use of adaptive clothing by the elderly and children with and without disabilities, to make it easier to operate their clothing without assistance or to assist caregivers in dressing the user. [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) Adaptive design (/wiki/Accessibility) , a core component of adaptive clothing design and construction, proactively addresses these foreseen limitations by adapting clothing to the user, [8] (#cite_note-8) benefitting both them and caregivers or healthcare professionals (/wiki/Health_professional) to be more efficient, increasing independence, as well as preventing potential back and shoulder injuries. [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-:2-10) If both functional and fashionable, adaptive clothing can increase an individual's quality of life and confidence. [10] (#cite_note-:2-10) Types of adaptations [ edit ] There are some other adaptations that take place in order to make the clothes as comfortable as possible for these individuals. One example is breathability (/wiki/Breathability) as well as using natural fibres (/wiki/Natural_fibre) as to not irritate the skin. Another is specialized garment patterns, seams (/wiki/Sewing) , and closures, for example having outward facing seams in order to not irritate skin or closures that are easily opened and close like magnets. (/wiki/Magnet) [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) Being able to adjust temperature (/wiki/Temperature) is important because people with physical disabilities sometimes have different temperature needs than others. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) Adaptive clothing typically incorporates flat seams (/wiki/Seam_(sewing)) to reduce friction, and discreet adaptations that provide an outward appearance as consistent with fashion norms as possible. For example, pants can have longer inseams in the back to provide more coverage for wheelchair (/wiki/Wheelchair) users. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) These adaptations may include easy-access snap fasteners (/wiki/Snap_fastener) and velcro (/wiki/Hook-and-loop_fastener) fastenings (/wiki/Fastener) , fabric that stretches in one or both directions, clothing design with room to accommodate incontinence (/wiki/Urinary_incontinence) aids, a longer rise in the back of trousers (/wiki/Trousers) to accommodate wheelchair users, and an elasticated waist for increased comfort and easier dressing. Individuals with limited or no dexterity (/wiki/Fine_motor_skill) may experience difficulty in manipulating certain fastenings, such as buttons (/wiki/Button) and zippers (/wiki/Zipper) . For this reason, it is common for adaptive clothing to utilize velcro or magnetic closures in the place of closures that would require more dexterity. Similarly, disabled people whose mobility limits them from engaging in the typical full range of motion commonly experience difficulty when dressing in clothing that must be pulled up from the feet or pulled over the head; as such, adaptive clothing may feature hidden flap-openings or additional closures that allow the garment itself to be pulled on without having to bend over or reach up. These may take the form of velcro flaps at the neck (/wiki/Neck) and shoulders (/wiki/Shoulders) , allowing the neckline (/wiki/Neckline) to expand when the garment is pulled down over the head. The same adjustments may also be made for shoes (/wiki/Shoes) and other accessories, with velcro closures being the most common feature in adaptive shoes. [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) The development of adaptive-functional clothing tailored to the needs of individuals with disabilities is a complex undertaking that necessitates ongoing research and draws upon knowledge from various fields. The sophistication of these garments designed for the disabled hinges on two primary factors. First, the clothing should incorporate an aesthetic (/wiki/Aesthetics) dimension, ensuring it aligns with the aesthetic preferences of individuals with disabilities without emphasizing their impairments. This clothing should promote psychological well-being, maintain a harmonious color palette, and contribute to concealing any disabilities. Second, [13] (#cite_note-13) the clothing should be attuned to the physical characteristics of the disabled individuals, both in static and dynamic situations, taking into account factors such as age, health status, and other relevant considerations. Furthermore, the clothing should offer comfort during both the dressing and undressing processes, requiring as little physical effort as possible. Examples [ edit ] Disability Associated problem Adaptive clothing solution Alzheimer's disease Individual disrobes at inappropriate times. Locking clothing (/wiki/Locking_clothing) Oedema Swelling of feet and legs leads to difficulty wearing conventional footwear or pants. Adaptive shoes and pants adjustable in size, offering non-restrictive closures. Compression socks and clothing can improve blood flow and reduce oedema. Incontinence Reduced bladder control and urgency Clothing that can be removed easily and quickly and can accommodate incontinence aids discreetly and comfortably. Parkinson's disease and arthritis (e.g., Rheumatoid arthritis) Loss of fine motor skills (/wiki/Fine_motor_skills) and dexterity Buttons and zippers are replaced with easy touch Velcro or magnetic closures. Contractures, arthritis, MS, MDS, SCI, MD, paraplegia, quadriplegia Inability to bend muscles or move joints Open back clothing which allows the clothing to be put on frontwards, eliminating the need to bend or rotate muscles or joints. Digestive Disorders & Bowel Disease Medical devices are common, including G/GJ feeding-tubes, colostomy, and ileostomy Clothing that provides access to the abdomen via snaps, zippers, or strategic layering and draping. Depending on the individual, looser clothing may be preferred to conceal abdominal devices, or comfortably tight, supportive clothing may be preferred to keep devices in place (e.g. high-waisted leggings, supportive waistbands). Scoliosis Curved Spine Back bodice to help hold spine straighter [14] (#cite_note-14) Factors of design [ edit ] Clothing is designed with human, environment, and, obviously, clothing in mind. This is called the “Human-Clothing-Environment.” These 3 factors contribute to the design of each piece of clothing. The human category is further broken down into subcategories, which includes visible or invisible disabilities and how that affects the user of an article of clothing. Only when all of the “Human-Clothing-Environment” is in equilibrium will the clothing be comfortable, functional, and fashionable for the user. [15] (#cite_note-15) There is a process by which clothing creators may follow to design more functional clothing articles. The first step is to identify the problem at which they are trying to solve. For example, are there issues with zippers or buttons, or does the wearer use a wheelchair? Next the get preliminary ideas. After making initial designs and seeing what works and what doesn’t, creators make design refinements. Finally, it comes time to make a prototype. Once the prototype it done, it will be evaluated for its form and function. If it does not meet the criteria, the design process is repeated, starting where the creator believes the mistakes were first made. At the end of the process, the clothing design can be implemented and used. [16] (#cite_note-16) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-:1_1-0) Bolster, Mary (August 2019). "Design for All" (https://dx.doi.org/10.1097/01.nnn.0000579280.63798.85) . Brain & Life . 15 (4): 36. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1097/01.nnn.0000579280.63798.85 (https://doi.org/10.1097%2F01.nnn.0000579280.63798.85) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2576-2273 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2576-2273) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 202096857 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:202096857) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "What is Adaptive Clothing -" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120722231733/http://www.errine.com.au/disabled-clothing/what-is-adaptive-clothing.html) . Errine Adaptive Clothing. Archived from the original (http://www.errine.com.au/disabled-clothing/what-is-adaptive-clothing.html) on 22 July 2012 . Retrieved 1 July 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Apparel Causes Additional Barriers for People Living with Disabilities" (https://www.socialworktoday.com/news/dn_062116.shtml#:~:text=The%20mechanical%20aspects%20of%20getting,to%20find%20clothes%20that%20fit) . www.socialworktoday.com . Retrieved 2023-03-10 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Rutledge, Brittany (2017). "Autoethnograhic Study in the Process of Applied Design: Creating Adaptive Clothing for a Child with Spinal Muscular Atrophy" (https://scholarworks.gsu.edu/art_design_theses/212) . Art and Design Theses . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.57709/10025817 (https://doi.org/10.57709%2F10025817) . ^ Jump up to: a b Kabel, Allison; McBee-Black, Kerri; Dimka, Jessica (2016-10-22). "Apparel-related participation barriers: ability, adaptation and engagement" (https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.3109/09638288.2015.1123309) . Disability and Rehabilitation . 38 (22): 2184–2192. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.3109/09638288.2015.1123309 (https://doi.org/10.3109%2F09638288.2015.1123309) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0963-8288 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0963-8288) . PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 26731674 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26731674) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 13758816 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:13758816) . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Adaptive Clothing for Disabled Makes Dressing Children with Permanent or Temporary Disability Stress-free for Parents and Children." Web News Wire , 6 August 2013. Gale OneFile: News , link.gale.com/apps/doc/A338990430/STND?u=albu78484&sid=ebsco&xid=ad799d37. Accessed 10 March 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Kim, Jaewoon (2021-06-30). "The Effect of Stabilization Exercise using Tele-rehabilitaion on Muscle Activity, Shoulder Pain and Disability Index in Rural Elderly People with Chronic Shoulder Pain" (https://dx.doi.org/10.14474/ptrs.2021.10.2.106) . Physical Therapy Rehabilitation Science . 10 (2): 106–111. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.14474/ptrs.2021.10.2.106 (https://doi.org/10.14474%2Fptrs.2021.10.2.106) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2287-7576 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2287-7576) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 236229922 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:236229922) . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "What is Adaptive Clothing?" (http://www.cbobaby.com/what-is-adaptive-clothing) . CBO Baby. 5 June 2015 . Retrieved 6 June 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Adaptive Clothing/Apparel for Health Care Professionals" (http://www.silverts.com/health-care-professional-adaptive-clothing) . Silvert's Adaptive Clothing & Footwear (/wiki/Silvert%27s_Adaptive_Clothing_%26_Footwear) . Retrieved 22 August 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b Azher, Naheed; Saeed, Muhammad (2012). "ADAPTIVE CLOTHING FOR FEMALES WITH ARTHRITIS IMPAIRMENT" (https://jumdc.com/index.php/jumdc/article/view/360) . Journal of University Medical & Dental College . 3 (2): 52–59. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2310-5542 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2310-5542) . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Adaptive Clothing – Information and Availability" (https://www.disabled-world.com/assistivedevices/adaptive-clothing.php) . Disabled World. 20 March 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-12) "What is Adaptive Clothing?" (http://www.silverts.com/what-is-adaptive-clothing) . Silvert's Adaptive Clothing & Footwear (/wiki/Silvert%27s_Adaptive_Clothing_%26_Footwear) . Retrieved 22 August 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Elena, Florea-Burduja; Aliona, Raru; Daniela, Farîma; Marcela, Irovan (2021-12-01). "THE ANALYSIS OF THE SYSTEM "HUMAN–CLOTHING–ENVIRONMENT" WITH APPLICATION IN THE DESIGN OF FUNCTIONAL ADAPTIVE PRODUCTS" (http://textile.webhost.uoradea.ro/Annals/Vol%2022%20no%201-2021/Textile/Art%20444%20pag%2017-20.pdf) (PDF) . Annals of the University of Oradea: Fascicle of Textiles, Leatherwork . 22 (1): 17–20. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1843-813X (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1843-813X) . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Mosleh, Sara; Abtew, Mulat Alubel; Bruniaux, Pascal; Tartare, Guillaume; Xu, Yukang; Chen, Yan (January 2021). "3D Digital Adaptive Thorax Modelling of Peoples with Spinal Disabilities: Applications for Performance Clothing Design" (https://doi.org/10.3390%2Fapp11104545) . Applied Sciences . 11 (10): 4545. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.3390/app11104545 (https://doi.org/10.3390%2Fapp11104545) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2076-3417 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2076-3417) . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Florea-Burduja, Elena; Raru, Aliona; Farima, Daniela; Irovan, Marcela (2021). "THE ANALYSIS OF THE SYSTEM "HUMAN–CLOTHING– ENVIRONMENT" WITH APPLICATION IN THE DESIGN OF FUNCTIONAL ADAPTIVE PRODUCTS" (https://web.archive.org/web/20220618002525/http://textile.webhost.uoradea.ro/Annals/Vol%2022%20no%201-2021/Textile/Art%20444%20pag%2017-20.pdf) (PDF) . Archived from the original on June 18, 2022 . Retrieved March 10, 2023 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_bot:_original_URL_status_unknown) ) CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-16) Imran, A.; Drean, Emilie; Schacher, Laurence; Adolphe, Dominique (2017-11-08). "Adaptive bra designs for the individuals with special needs" (https://hal.science/hal-03103149) . IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering . 254 (7): 072012. Bibcode (/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)) : 2017MS&E..254g2012I (https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2017MS&E..254g2012I) . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1088/1757-899X/254/7/072012 (https://doi.org/10.1088%2F1757-899X%2F254%2F7%2F072012) . 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NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐jx9j7 Cached time: 20240721121040 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.001 seconds Real time usage: 0.002 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 0/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 1/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 0/5000000 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 0.000 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:36779194-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721121040 and revision id 1132699015. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 4 subcategories, out of 4 total. C Clothing free organizations (/wiki/Category:Clothing_free_organizations) ‎ (17 P) Clothing companies (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies) ‎ (13 C, 5 P) L Laundry organizations (/wiki/Category:Laundry_organizations) ‎ (1 C, 9 P) U Textile and clothing trade unions (/wiki/Category:Textile_and_clothing_trade_unions) ‎ (9 C, 106 P) Pages in category "Clothing-related organizations" The following 7 pages are in this category, out of 7 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . A The Association for Women with Large Feet (/wiki/The_Association_for_Women_with_Large_Feet) C The Costume Society (/wiki/The_Costume_Society) D The David Casavant Archive (/wiki/The_David_Casavant_Archive) I International Apparel Federation (/wiki/International_Apparel_Federation) M Men's Dress Reform Party (/wiki/Men%27s_Dress_Reform_Party) S Suay Sew Shop (/wiki/Suay_Sew_Shop) W Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (/wiki/Worldwide_Responsible_Accredited_Production) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Clothing-related_organizations&oldid=1132699015 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Clothing-related_organizations&oldid=1132699015) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Clothing (/wiki/Category:Clothing) Business organizations by industry (/wiki/Category:Business_organizations_by_industry)
The Gents Place Company type Private (/wiki/Private_company) Industry Men's grooming Founded Frisco, TX (/wiki/Frisco,_TX) (2008) [1] (#cite_note-SYOHS-1) Founder Benjamin Davis [2] (#cite_note-GentsPlaceForbes-2) Headquarters Dallas, TX (/wiki/Dallas,_TX) Number of locations 13 Area served USA Key people Benjamin Davis (co-owner, president) Emmitt Smith (/wiki/Emmitt_Smith) (co-owner) Website thegentsplace (http://thegentsplace.com) .com (http://thegentsplace.com) The Gents Place is an ultra-premium and membership-based men's grooming and lifestyle club launched in Frisco, Texas (/wiki/Frisco,_Texas) , in 2008. The combination barbershop, spa and salon offers services including haircuts, coloring, shaves, hand and foot repairs and shoe shine services. [3] (#cite_note-3) History [ edit ] The Gents Place was founded by Benjamin Davis in 2008, with the opening of the first location in the Dallas suburb of Frisco, Texas. [1] (#cite_note-SYOHS-1) [4] (#cite_note-sthompson-4) Davis also founded GentsDeals.com, a men's buying club, and digital marketing company Male Advertising Network. [5] (#cite_note-DallasNewsMover-5) Davis has stated that the idea for The Gents Place came to him because he disliked getting his hair cut and wanted to improve upon the experience. [5] (#cite_note-DallasNewsMover-5) [6] (#cite_note-americansalon2015-6) To start, he focused on building, training and retaining a staff with high standards, [6] (#cite_note-americansalon2015-6) and used a social media campaign to sign up over 5,000 clients. [2] (#cite_note-GentsPlaceForbes-2) In 2011, Davis purchased an existing men's salon in Leawood, Kansas (/wiki/Leawood,_Kansas) , turning it into a second Gents Place location. A third location was opened in the Preston Hollow (/wiki/Preston_Hollow,_Dallas) neighborhood of Dallas in 2012. [4] (#cite_note-sthompson-4) [5] (#cite_note-DallasNewsMover-5) By that time, men's grooming was the fastest growing segment of the beauty industry. [4] (#cite_note-sthompson-4) As of July 2019, there are eight Texas locations, one in Kansas, one in Bentonville, two in Chicago, and one in Las Vegas. [6] (#cite_note-americansalon2015-6) [7] (#cite_note-kburke-7) In March 2016, The Gents Place received an undisclosed investment from Elevated Brands, a holding company established by San Antonio-based massage therapy company Massage Heights, to help expand The Gents Place to a nationwide franchise brand. [7] (#cite_note-kburke-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-kkezar-9) As of July 2019, The Gents Place has 13 locations. In May 2016, Hall of Fame (/wiki/Pro_Football_Hall_of_Fame) NFL (/wiki/NFL) running back Emmitt Smith (/wiki/Emmitt_Smith) became co-owner of The Gents Place, alongside the company's founder and president, Ben Davis. Smith has been a member and has worked with the company since it was founded. After observing its potential to meet the growing need for men's luxury grooming, he decided to make an investment in the company, to assist with franchise growth and brand awareness. [9] (#cite_note-kkezar-9) [10] (#cite_note-jgolden-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) That month, Davis announced a national franchise program, with plans to open 150 franchise locations in the next five years, in addition to several more corporate-owned stores. [9] (#cite_note-kkezar-9) [13] (#cite_note-13) In September 2016, The Gents Place announced that they would be expanding to Houston, developing up to 10 clubs in the area. [14] (#cite_note-14) Services and culture [ edit ] The Gents Place provides hair services, hot towel shaves, waxing, shoe shines and hand and foot repairs, [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-tplummer-16) and features complimentary bars and cigar-smoking patios. [6] (#cite_note-americansalon2015-6) [9] (#cite_note-kkezar-9) Interior features include dark wood paneling, leather barber chairs, big lounge chairs and a red felt pool table in at least one of its locations. [5] (#cite_note-DallasNewsMover-5) [16] (#cite_note-tplummer-16) The atmosphere is comparable to a country club or high-end steakhouse. [6] (#cite_note-americansalon2015-6) The company offers monthly and yearly memberships with various service packages. [4] (#cite_note-sthompson-4) As of July 2016, The Gents Place has 2,300 members. [10] (#cite_note-jgolden-10) Accolades [ edit ] The Gents Place was named #1 Barber on the WFAA (/wiki/WFAA) Dallas A-List in 2009. [17] (#cite_note-17) Haute Living (/wiki/Haute_Living) called it one of the top five barbershops in Dallas, [18] (#cite_note-18) and it has been featured in Men's Health (/wiki/Men%27s_Health) as one of the Manliest Barbershops in America. [19] (#cite_note-MHM-19) In 2014, Esquire (/wiki/Esquire_(magazine)) magazine said it offers one of the most luxurious shaves in America. [20] (#cite_note-20) In December 2015, The Gents Place was named one of three winners of the OnDeck Barbara Corcoran Seal of Approval contest. The company received a $10,000 cash prize, and Davis met with Shark Tank (/wiki/Shark_Tank) investor Barbara Corcoran (/wiki/Barbara_Corcoran) in New York. [21] (#cite_note-21) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Sandlin, Eileen Figure (2010). Startup – Start Your Own Hair Salon and Day Spa . Entrepreneur Press. p. 9. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1599183463 . ^ Jump up to: a b Knapp, Alex (7 May 2012). "The Gents Place Puts A Modern Twist On Barbering" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/alexknapp/2012/04/20/the-gents-place-puts-a-modern-twist-on-barbering/) . Forbes Magazine (/wiki/Forbes_Magazine) . Retrieved 31 January 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Men-Only Salon and Spa Set To Open In Frisco" (http://www.bizjournals.com/dallas/stories/2008/12/08/story4.html?full=true) . Dallas Business Journal . 7 December 2008 . Retrieved 31 January 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Steven R. Thompson, "Male grooming clubs are coming into fashion in DFW," (http://www.bizjournals.com/dallas/print-edition/2012/05/25/male-grooming-clubs-are-coming-into.html) Dallas Business Journal (/wiki/Dallas_Business_Journal) , May 25, 2012. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Jean, Sheryl (30 May 2012). "Dallas-Area Entrepreneur Makes Over The Barbershop" (http://www.dallasnews.com/business/small-business/20120530-dallas-area-entrepreneur-makes-over-the-barbershop.ece) . Dallas Morning News . Retrieved 31 January 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "The Gents Place Succeeds by Treating Both Clients and Staff with Respect," (http://www.americansalon.com/business/gents-place-succeeds-treating-both-clients-and-staff-respect) American Salon , November 19, 2015. ^ Jump up to: a b Katie Burke, "Growth pushes Massage Heights to establish new holding company, make first acquisition," (http://www.bizjournals.com/sanantonio/news/2016/03/09/growth-pushes-massage-heights-to-establish-new.html) San Antonio Business Journal (/wiki/San_Antonio_Business_Journal) , March 9, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Beth Ewen, "Massage Heights Adds The Gents Place to Stable," Franchise Times (/wiki/Franchise_Times) , March 2016. http://www.franchisetimes.com/news/March-2016/Massage-Heights-Adds-The-Gents-Place-to-Stable/ (http://www.franchisetimes.com/news/March-2016/Massage-Heights-Adds-The-Gents-Place-to-Stable/) ^ Jump up to: a b c d Korri Kezar, "Men's grooming company launches franchise program; plans to build 150 units in 5 years," (http://www.bizjournals.com/dallas/news/2016/06/24/mens-grooming-company-launches-franchise-program.html) Dallas Business Journal , June 24, 2016. ^ Jump up to: a b Jessica Golden, "NFL legend Emmitt Smith shares his best business advice," (https://www.cnbc.com/2016/07/25/nfl-legend-emmitt-smith-shares-his-best-business-advice.html) CNBC (/wiki/CNBC) , July 25, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Brandon Sirrico, "NFL Running Back Emmitt Smith Is Now In Skin Care," (https://www.skincare.net/nfl-running-back-emmitt-smith-is-now-in-skin-care/) skincare.net, July 27, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Nicholas Sakelaris, "Emmitt Smith," (http://www.crains.com/if-i-knew-then/emmitt-smith/e-smith-realty) Crain's (/wiki/Crain_Communications) , 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Jade Scipioni, "NFL Legend Emmitt Smith Rushes into the Barbershop Business," (http://www.foxbusiness.com/features/2016/08/25/nfl-legend-emmitt-smith-rushes-into-barbershop-business.html) Fox Business (/wiki/Fox_Business) , August 25, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Heather Leighton, "Emmitt Smith's luxury men's lifestyle club The Gents Place is expanding to Houston, area suburbs," (http://www.chron.com/business/article/Luxury-men-s-grooming-and-lifestyle-club-The-9213398.php) Houston Chronicle (/wiki/Houston_Chronicle) , September 9, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Chanel Parks, "8 Salons That Let Guys Get Their Groom On," (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/03/10/salons-guys-get-their-groom-on_n_6831524.html) Huffington Post (/wiki/Huffington_Post) , March 10, 2015. ^ Jump up to: a b Todd Plummer, "Why You Should Join a Grooming Club," (http://www.mensjournal.com/expert-advice/why-you-should-join-a-grooming-club-20140617/the-gents-place-in-dallas) Men's Journal (/wiki/Men%27s_Journal) , June 17, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-17) "WFAA A-List – Best Barber North Texas 2009" (http://dallas.cityvoter.com/best/barber/beauty/north-texas/2009) . Retrieved 1 February 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Kent, Lauren (12 October 2012). "Shave And A Haircut" (http://www.hauteliving.com/2010/10/shave-and-a-haircut-the-top-5-barber-shops-in-dallas/95020/) . haute Living . Retrieved 1 February 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-MHM_19-0) Cericola, Rachel. "Manliest Barbershops in America" (http://www.menshealth.com/grooming/manliest-barbershops) . Men’s Health Magazine . Retrieved 31 January 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Chadner Navarro, "These Are the Most Luxurious Shaves in America," (http://www.esquire.com/style/grooming/g2004/6-most-luxurious-shaves-in-america-120414/?slide=6) Esquire (/wiki/Esquire_(magazine)) , December 4, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-21) Barbara Corcoran (/wiki/Barbara_Corcoran) , "Meet the Barbara Corcoran Seal of Approval Contest Winners," (https://www.ondeck.com/blog/barbara-corcoran-seal-of-approval-contest-winners/) OnDeck.com, December 21, 2015. External links [ edit ] Official Website (http://www.thegentsplace.com/) Deluxe Massage UK (https://www.deluxemassage.co.uk) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5486b6fcc7‐v79lg Cached time: 20240629101202 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.246 seconds Real time usage: 0.334 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1612/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 19506/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1095/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 38015/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.133/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4309708/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 280.414 1 -total 48.46% 135.893 1 Template:Infobox_company 46.58% 130.626 1 Template:Reflist 44.56% 124.943 1 Template:Infobox 29.27% 82.068 1 Template:Cite_book 6.20% 17.388 4 Template:Cite_news 3.87% 10.841 1 Template:Url 3.75% 10.518 1 Template:Comma_separated_entries 2.83% 7.938 2 Template:Cite_web 0.88% 2.467 5 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:38386206-0!canonical and timestamp 20240629101202 and revision id 1231628222. 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Trademark of Nike For other uses, see Just Do It (disambiguation) (/wiki/Just_Do_It_(disambiguation)) . JUST DO IT. lettering Just Do It or JDI for short is a trademark (/wiki/Trademark) of shoe company Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) . Kalin Reeves tagline was coined in 1988 at an advertising agency meeting. The founder of the Wieden+Kennedy (/wiki/Wieden%2BKennedy) agency, Dan Wieden (/wiki/Dan_Wieden) , credits the inspiration for his "Just Do It" Nike slogan to a death row (/wiki/Death_row) inmate Gary Gilmore (/wiki/Gary_Gilmore) ’s last words: "Let's do it." [1] (#cite_note-nytimes-1) From 1988 to 1998, Nike increased its share of the North American domestic sport-shoe business from 18% to 43% (from $877 million to $9.2 billion in worldwide sales). [2] (#cite_note-udoc-2) In many Nike-related situations, "Just Do It" appears alongside the Nike logo, known as the Swoosh (/wiki/Swoosh) . Origin [ edit ] Dan Wieden, cofounder of the advertising firm Wieden and Kennedy, revealed the phrase was inspired by the final words of a death row inmate who was facing execution and said, "You know, let's do it." "I remember when I read that I was like, that's amazing. I mean how, in the face of that much uncertainty, do you push through that? So I didn't like the 'let's' thing, and so I just changed that, cause otherwise I'd have to give him credit," Wieden joked. Campaign [ edit ] The "Just Do It" campaign launched in 1988 was highly successful, with the company defining the meaning of "Just Do It" as being both "universal and intensely personal." [3] (#cite_note-3) While Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) was directing their campaign at aerobics during the fitness craze of the 1980s, Nike responded with "a tough, take no prisoners ad campaign." One of the campaign's objectives was to target all Americans—regardless of age, gender or physical fitness level—and Nike's fundamental objective was to represent sneakers as a fashion statement to consumers, which led to Nike apparel becoming worn as more than just fitness gear. The "Just Do It" campaign went out to a range of media outlets including merchandise, outdoor billboards, print media, and graffiti art. Throughout the campaign, Nike enlisted a range of people from varying ethnicities and races, as well as numerous notable athletes, in order to attract customers and promote the image of Nike as being reliable to not only everyday customers but professional athletes. Athletes such as football stars Bo Jackson (/wiki/Bo_Jackson) , Ronaldinho (/wiki/Ronaldinho) , and Wayne Rooney (/wiki/Wayne_Rooney) ; basketball stars Michael Jordan (/wiki/Michael_Jordan) and Kobe Bryant (/wiki/Kobe_Bryant) ; and tennis stars Roger Federer (/wiki/Roger_Federer) and Rafael Nadal (/wiki/Rafael_Nadal) were used in their advertisements. [4] (#cite_note-4) [ unreliable source? ] The campaign embodied Nike's image as an innovative American icon associated with success through the combination of professional athletes and motivational slogans emphasizing sportsmanship and health. This led to customers associating their purchases with the prospect of achieving greatness. [5] (#cite_note-5) [ unreliable source? ] 2015 Shia LaBeouf internet meme [ edit ] In May 2015, the performance art group LaBeouf, Rönkkö & Turner (/wiki/LaBeouf,_R%C3%B6nkk%C3%B6_%26_Turner) released #INTRODUCTIONS , a half-hour video made in collaboration with Central Saint Martins (/wiki/Central_Saint_Martins) Fine Art students, comprising a series of short monologues performed by actor Shia LaBeouf (/wiki/Shia_LaBeouf) in front of a green screen (/wiki/Chroma_key) . Each student had been instructed to provide the artists with a script to introduce their work, and the resulting footage was released under a Creative Commons (/wiki/Creative_Commons) license, enabling the public to freely adapt and remix it. [6] (#cite_note-Yahoo-introductions-6) One segment, written by Joshua Parker, in the form of an exaggerated motivational speech [7] (#cite_note-Vox-doit-7) dubbed "Just Do It" after the eponymous Nike slogan, became an Internet meme (/wiki/Internet_meme) after going viral (/wiki/Viral_video) within days of being released, spawning numerous remixes and parodies, and becoming the most searched-for GIF (/wiki/GIF) of 2015, according to Google (/wiki/Google) . [8] (#cite_note-PM-Gif-8) 30th anniversary and Colin Kaepernick controversy [ edit ] The "Just Do It" campaign celebrated its 30th anniversary on September 5, 2018, with the release of their video titled "Dream Crazy". This short video followed the trend of Nike partnering up with famous or trending athletes and featured numerous household named sports figures such as LeBron James (/wiki/LeBron_James) , Serena Williams (/wiki/Serena_Williams) , and Colin Kaepernick (/wiki/Colin_Kaepernick) . The involvement of Kaepernick with the advertisement, especially after the context of the controversial act of kneeling during the National Anthem in 2016 (/wiki/U.S._national_anthem_protests_(2016%E2%80%93present)) , gave rise to a social movement against Nike. [9] (#cite_note-9) Many individuals took to Twitter and other social media sites to revolt, adopting hashtags such as, #JustDont or #BoycottNike. [10] (#cite_note-10) Many former fans of Nike protested by explicitly demanding that others boycott or even go as far to burn Nike shoes or destroy various other merchandise. Nevertheless, many analysts suggested that the campaign was successful, as the target group (/wiki/Target_group) of the advertisement endorsed it. [11] (#cite_note-11) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-nytimes_1-0) Peters, Jeremy W. (August 19, 2009). "The Birth of 'Just Do It' and Other Magic Words" (https://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/20/business/media/20adco.html) . New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130627200029/http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/20/business/media/20adco.html) from the original on June 27, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-udoc_2-0) "Mini-case Study: Nike's "Just Do It" Advertising Campaign" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131111201405/http://udoc.eu/docs/b0c524/mini-case-study-nike-s-%2522just-do-it%2522-advertising-campaign-center-for-applied-research) . UDOC. Archived from the original (http://udoc.eu/docs/b0c524/mini-case-study-nike-s-%2522just-do-it%2522-advertising-campaign-center-for-applied-research) on November 11, 2013 . Retrieved November 11, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Friedrich von Borries (2004). Who's Afraid of Niketown?: Nike Urbanism, Branding and the City of Tomorrow . Episode Publishers. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789059730144 . Retrieved June 16, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Nike-Just Do It" (http://com4000chung.alliant.wikispaces.net/Nike+-+Just+Do+It) . Wendy Chung. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130830014124/http://com4000chung.alliant.wikispaces.net/Nike+-+Just+Do+It) from the original on August 30, 2013 . Retrieved June 25, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Strategic Analysis of Nike" (http://condor.depaul.edu/aalmaney/StrategicAnalysisofNike.htm) . Condor. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20101212110036/http://condor.depaul.edu/aalmaney/StrategicAnalysisofNike.htm) from the original on December 12, 2010 . Retrieved June 24, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-Yahoo-introductions_6-0) Pogue, David (/wiki/David_Pogue) (June 2, 2015). "The Real Story Behind Shia LaBeouf's Hilarious 'Motivational' Rant" (https://www.yahoo.com/tech/the-real-story-behind-shia-labeoufs-hilarious-120497282774.html) . Yahoo (/wiki/Yahoo) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170210151908/https://www.yahoo.com/tech/the-real-story-behind-shia-labeoufs-hilarious-120497282774.html) from the original on February 10, 2017 . Retrieved December 27, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Vox-doit_7-0) Edwards, P. (June 3, 2015). "Shia LaBeouf's extremely loud motivational speech, explained" (https://www.vox.com/2015/6/3/8725089/shia-labeouf-motivational-speech) . Vox (/wiki/Vox_(website)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161228124447/http://www.vox.com/2015/6/3/8725089/shia-labeouf-motivational-speech) from the original on December 28, 2016 . Retrieved December 27, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-PM-Gif_8-0) Bruk, Diana (December 18, 2015). "Here Are the 10 Gifs that Defined 2015" (http://www.popularmechanics.com/culture/web/news/a18587/most-googled-gifs-of-2015/) . Popular Mechanics (/wiki/Popular_Mechanics) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161228124650/http://www.popularmechanics.com/culture/web/news/a18587/most-googled-gifs-of-2015/) from the original on December 28, 2016 . Retrieved December 27, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Blistein, Jon (September 4, 2018). "Colin Kaepernick Leads Nike's 'Just Do It' 30th Anniversary Campaign" (https://www.rollingstone.com/culture/culture-news/colin-kaepernick-leads-nikes-just-do-it-30th-anniversary-campaign-718663/) . Rolling Stone . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180930081408/https://www.rollingstone.com/culture/culture-news/colin-kaepernick-leads-nikes-just-do-it-30th-anniversary-campaign-718663/) from the original on September 30, 2018 . Retrieved September 30, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Ferreras, Jesse (September 4, 2018). "Nike shoes burn on social media as Colin Kaepernick features in 'Just Do It' campaign" (https://globalnews.ca/news/4425379/nike-shoes-burn-colin-kaepernick/) . Global News . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180930081900/https://globalnews.ca/news/4425379/nike-shoes-burn-colin-kaepernick/) from the original on September 30, 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Goldman, David (September 14, 2018). "Nike's Colin Kaepernick gamble is already paying off" (https://money.cnn.com/2018/09/14/news/companies/nike-kaepernick/index.html) . CNN Money . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181009203731/https://money.cnn.com/2018/09/14/news/companies/nike-kaepernick/index.html) from the original on October 9, 2018. See also [ edit ] Autosuggestion (/wiki/Autosuggestion) and Magical thinking (/wiki/Magical_thinking) v t e Nike, Inc. (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) 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This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Environmental_sustainability_of_vintage_fashion) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Environmental_sustainability_of_vintage_fashion) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article's tone or style may not reflect the encyclopedic tone (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Tone) used on Wikipedia . See Wikipedia's guide to writing better articles (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Tone) for suggestions. ( April 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article is written like a research paper or scientific journal (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_manual,_guidebook,_textbook,_or_scientific_journal) . 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Find sources: "Environmental sustainability of vintage fashion" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Environmental+sustainability+of+vintage+fashion%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Environmental+sustainability+of+vintage+fashion%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Environmental+sustainability+of+vintage+fashion%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Environmental+sustainability+of+vintage+fashion%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Environmental+sustainability+of+vintage+fashion%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Environmental+sustainability+of+vintage+fashion%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( May 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Vintage clothing shop in Michigan (/wiki/Michigan) Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Clothing_and_the_environment) on Clothing and the environment Environmental impact of fashion (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Key issues Cotton industry (/wiki/Cotton_industry) Ecological footprint (/wiki/Ecological_footprint) Fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) Fur trade (/wiki/Fur_trade) Global trade of secondhand clothing (/wiki/Global_trade_of_secondhand_clothing) Impact investing (/wiki/Impact_investing) Microplastics (/wiki/Microplastics) Textile performance (/wiki/Textile_performance) By type Cashmere (/wiki/Cashmere_wool#Criticism_of_industry) Fur farming (/wiki/Environmental_impacts_of_fur_farming) Leather (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_leather) Sustainability Anti-fashion (/wiki/Anti-fashion) Biodegradable athletic footwear (/wiki/Biodegradable_athletic_footwear) Circular fashion (/wiki/Circular_fashion) Clothing swap (/wiki/Clothing_swap) Cotton recycling (/wiki/Cotton_recycling) Environmental design (/wiki/Environmental_design) Environmental impact design (/wiki/Environmental_impact_design) Green textile (/wiki/Green_textile) Public interest design (/wiki/Public_interest_design) Organic cotton (/wiki/Organic_cotton) Reconstructed clothing (/wiki/Reconstructed_clothing) Slow fashion (/wiki/Slow_fashion) Socially responsible investing (/wiki/Socially_responsible_investing) Sustainable (/wiki/Sustainability) Advertising (/wiki/Sustainable_advertising) Design (/wiki/Sustainable_design) Fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) Industries (/wiki/Sustainable_industries) Market (/wiki/Sustainable_market) Procurement (/wiki/Sustainable_procurement) Transport (/wiki/Sustainable_transport) Textile recycling (/wiki/Textile_recycling) Sustainability of vintage fashion Trashion (/wiki/Trashion) Zero-waste fashion (/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion) Related Business ethics (/wiki/Business_ethics) Green marketing (/wiki/Green_marketing) RiverBlue (/wiki/RiverBlue) The True Cost (/wiki/The_True_Cost) Environmental record of Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.#Environmental_record) Ecological design (/wiki/Ecological_design) Laundry wastewater (/wiki/Laundry_wastewater) Vintage clothing (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Environment portal (/wiki/Portal:Environment) v t e Vintage clothing (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) , or "Vintage", is a colloquialism (/wiki/Colloquialism) commonly used to refer to all old styles of clothing. A widely accepted industry standard is that items made between 20 and 100 years ago can be considered "vintage" if they clearly reflect the styles and trends of the era they represent. [1] (#cite_note-1) In recent years, the popularity of vintage clothing has grown, as consumers seek unique and sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) options. [2] (#cite_note-:8-2) The rise in popularity of vintage fashion bas been viewed as a reaction to the negative impact and publicity associated with fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) . Fast fashion refers to inexpensive clothing produced rapidly by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends. It involves a business model where companies create and sell their own products through vertically integrated production methods, allowing for a quick response to consumer demand (/wiki/Consumer_demand) . [3] (#cite_note-3) However, consumers tend to dispose of fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) products quickly, leading to environmental concerns (/wiki/Environmental_concerns) . The fast fashion industry had an estimated worth of around $91 billion in 2021 [4] (#cite_note-4) and produces approximately 1 billion garments (/wiki/Garments) yearly. Despite its profitability, this industry relies on rapid production to capitalize on new trends and has a significant environmental impact. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) The fast fashion industry emits approximately 1.2 billion tons of carbon dioxide (/wiki/Carbon_dioxide) annually, which accounts for 5% of all global emissions. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) Vintage clothing offers a solution to the issues posed by fast fashion, allowing individuals to express their style while also preventing clothing waste. [6] (#cite_note-6) Recently, the trend towards vintage clothing has grown, with more consumers adopting new attitudes toward second hand products, reflecting a growing interest in sustainability (/wiki/Sustainability) . [2] (#cite_note-:8-2) The increased media coverage of environmental issues has also influenced consumers to make more conscious decisions when purchasing fashion items. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) Benefits of Vintage Clothing [ edit ] Reduction of textile waste [ edit ] Purchasing vintage clothing is a way to avoid increasing the negative impacts of fast fashion, since by recycling previously used clothes no new production is needed. One of the main benefits of vintage clothing is the reduction of textile (/wiki/Textile) waste. The fashion industry is a major contributor to textile waste, with millions of tons of clothing ending up in landfills (/wiki/Landfill) every year. The United States alone generates a considerable amount of textile waste each year, estimated to be around 34 billion pounds. [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) Almost three-quarters of this waste is sent to landfills where many textiles are unable to decompose for years. [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) By using existing clothing instead of producing new clothing, vintage clothing offers an alternative to discarding clothing and extends the life of existing clothing. Reduction of carbon footprint [ edit ] Vintage items are often better able to be reused as they have typically been produced using higher manufacturing standards, making them longer-lasting compared to fast-fashion garments. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) The reduction in the volume of textile waste being sent to landfills also has a positive carbon impact, as clothes in landfill can contribute to greenhouse gases that affect climate change. [9] (#cite_note-9) The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of the world's carbon emissions, exceeding the combined emissions of international flights (/wiki/International_flight) and maritime shipping (/wiki/Maritime_shipping) . [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) If this trend continues, greenhouse gas emissions (/wiki/Greenhouse_gas_emissions) from the fashion industry will surge by more than 50% by 2030. In addition, about 500,000 tons of plastic microfibers (/wiki/Microfiber) , equivalent to 50 billion plastic bottles, are dumped into the ocean each year, posing a significant environmental risk as they cannot be removed from the water and can contaminate the food chain. [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) Moreover, the transportation of new clothing to landfills produces emissions that affect the carbon footprint of fashion. Conservation of resources [ edit ] Vintage fashion prevents energy and other resources from being used to create items of clothing. [11] (#cite_note-:3-11) The production of new clothing requires significant resources, such as water, energy, and raw materials. According to the United Nations Environment Programme (/wiki/United_Nations_Environment_Programme) (UNEP), the production of a single pair of jeans (/wiki/Jeans) necessitates approximately 3,781 litres of water and results in around 33.4 kilograms of carbon equivalent emissions. [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) Each year, the fashion industry utilizes 93 billion cubic meters of water, enough to satisfy the consumption requirements of five million individuals. Fabric dyeing and treatment account for roughly 20% of the world's wastewater (/wiki/Wastewater) . Unfortunately, 87% of the fibre input used for clothing ends up being either incinerated or disposed of in landfills. [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) Due to the fact that vintage clothing already exists, no additional resources need to be used that will affect the environment. Vintage clothing conserves these resources by using existing clothing instead of producing new clothing. Growth of vintage fashion [ edit ] The increasing demand for vintage clothing reflects a shift in consumer attitudes towards more thoughtful and distinctive purchases, as opposed to mass-produced products. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) The vintage fashion market is experiencing significant growth, particularly among younger generations who are increasingly aware of social and environmental issues. This demographic is turning away from the fast fashion industry, which is viewed as unsustainable and has led to a loss of individuality. Instead, there is a growing demand for unique and personal items that allow buyers to express their individuality and push back against the disruptive changes seen in many economies. [12] (#cite_note-:4-12) The vintage resale market has been growing at an impressive rate, 21 times faster than traditional apparel retail over the past three years. The market for clothing resale is expected to reach a value of $51 billion in 2023, according to recent reports. The number of women shopping for vintage items has also increased rapidly, from 44 million in 2017 to 56 million in 2018. [12] (#cite_note-:4-12) Challenges [ edit ] Transportation and shipping [ edit ] Vintage clothing is often sourced from other countries and transported to new markets, which can contribute to transportation emissions and increase the carbon footprint. The production and transportation of clothing involve the consumption of resources and energy, and the transportation of vintage clothing across borders can result in a significant carbon footprint. Shipping vintage clothing from countries where it is sourced to new markets where it is sold often involves the use of ships and trucks, which emit greenhouse gases that contribute to climate change. Approximately 90% of the world's trade is carried out by ships, which transport nearly 11 billion tons of commodities annually. [13] (#cite_note-:6-13) Approximately 2.5% of the world's overall carbon emission is caused by shipping and according to a 2015 study by the European Parliament (/wiki/European_Parliament) , it could increase to as much as 17% by 2050. [13] (#cite_note-:6-13) The demand for vintage clothing has increased in recent years, leading to an increase in transportation emissions associated with the industry. Quality control and safety [ edit ] Vintage clothing may not meet current safety standards and may contain hazardous materials such as lead (/wiki/Lead) or asbestos (/wiki/Asbestos) . Quality control is essential to ensure that vintage clothing is safe and of good quality. When shopping for vintage clothing, one must consider safety and quality control as they may not meet current safety standards and could potentially contain hazardous materials like lead or asbestos. [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) Antiquities (/wiki/Antiquities) can also pose a risk, as they may contain asbestos, a dangerous substance that was commonly used in products such as Bakelite (/wiki/Bakelite) , a synthetic plastic (/wiki/Synthetic_plastic) invented in 1907 (/wiki/1907) . Bakelite products can contain up to 5% of brown asbestos (/wiki/Brown_asbestos) , which makes them potentially harmful, and products such as cameras, toys, radios, jewellery, door handles, and even toilet seats and cisterns (/wiki/Cistern) could all contain asbestos. [14] (#cite_note-:7-14) Although products containing asbestos may be a low risk when in good condition, any damage could release asbestos dust and fibres into the air. Certain vintage beauty products, such as talcum powder (/wiki/Talcum_powder) , may have been contaminated with asbestos as well. As such, when antiquing and vintage shopping, it's vital to be cautious and aware of the potential dangers associated with vintage products. Accessibility and affordability [ edit ] The growing trend of thrift shopping among affluent consumers as an alternative to purchasing from ethical and sustainable fashion brands is limiting the clothing options available to low-income communities. [15] (#cite_note-15) However, some people are taking advantage of the accessibility, affordability, and sustainability of thrift stores, particularly on platforms like Depop (/wiki/Depop) . [16] (#cite_note-16) It is now common to see teenagers buying clothing from thrift stores and then reselling the same items at inflated prices on apps like Depop, Poshmark (/wiki/Poshmark) , or Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) . This overconsumption (/wiki/Overconsumption_(economics)) and gentrification (/wiki/Gentrification) of thrifting have been triggered by influencer culture. Thrift stores (/wiki/Thrift_stores) , which are intended to benefit low-income communities, have faced criticism for raising the prices of second hand clothing in recent years. Although online resellers are often blamed, thrift stores are often raising prices to cater to wealthier shoppers. The problem is not with the supply of donated goods, but rather the growing demand for thrifted items, which is making it difficult for low-income individuals to access affordable clothing. Demand for fast fashion [ edit ] The demand for fast fashion poses a challenge for vintage fashion and sustainable fashion in general. Fast fashion aims to give consumers access to the latest fashion trends quickly at affordable prices. The global fast fashion market is rapidly growing, with the market size expected to increase from $106.42 billion in 2022 to $122.98 billion in 2023 at a CAGR (/wiki/CAGR) of 15.6%, and to $184.96 billion in 2027 at a CAGR of 10.7%. [17] (#cite_note-:9-17) This growth can be attributed to the increasing adoption of affordable clothing by the rising youth population. According to the United Nations (/wiki/United_Nations) , the global youth population is expected to grow from 1.2 billion in 2019 to 1.3 billion by 2030, which presents a significant market opportunity for apparel manufacturing companies. [17] (#cite_note-:9-17) These companies are focused on delivering unique, trendy, and affordable clothes inspired by the latest fashion trends, which have been particularly attractive to the youth demographic (/wiki/Demographic) . This trend has propelled the growth of the fast fashion market that competes against sustainable fashion. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "What's the Difference Between Vintage and Retro Clothing?" (https://www.vestiairecollective.com/journal/vestiaire-asks-what-s-the-difference-between-vintage-and-retro-clothing/) . Vestiaire . 2021 . Retrieved 23 August 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Jacobs, Bel. "Why buying vintage clothes is 'the new luxury' (https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20201113-why-gen-z-and-millennials-go-wild-for-vintage-clothes) " (https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20201113-why-gen-z-and-millennials-go-wild-for-vintage-clothes) . www.bbc.com . Retrieved 2023-08-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Stanton, Audrey (2023-01-02). "What Is Fast Fashion, Anyway?" (https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/what-is-fast-fashion/) . The Good Trade . Retrieved 2023-04-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Smith, P. (28 March 2023). "Fast fashion market value forecast worldwide 2021-2026" (https://www.statista.com/statistics/1008241/fast-fashion-market-value-forecast-worldwide/) . Statista . Retrieved 2023-04-15 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Quinn, Emma (6 April 2020). "The Environmental Benefits of Vintage Shopping" (https://americanmadness.co.uk/blogs/american-madness-blog/the-environmental-benefits-of-vintage-shopping) . American Madness . Retrieved 2023-03-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Moorhouse, Debbie (2020-07-24). "Making Fashion Sustainable: Waste and Collective Responsibility" (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7380204) . One Earth . 3 (1): 17–19. Bibcode (/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)) : 2020OEart...3...17M (https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2020OEart...3...17M) . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1016/j.oneear.2020.07.002 (https://doi.org/10.1016%2Fj.oneear.2020.07.002) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2590-3322 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2590-3322) . PMC (/wiki/PMC_(identifier)) 7380204 (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7380204) . PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 34173525 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34173525) . ^ (#cite_ref-:0_7-0) Cassidy, Tracy Diane; Bennett, Hannah Rose (November 2012). "The Rise of Vintage Fashion and the Vintage Consumer" (https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.2752/175693812X13403765252424) . Fashion Practice . 4 (2): 239–261. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2752/175693812X13403765252424 (https://doi.org/10.2752%2F175693812X13403765252424) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1756-9370 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1756-9370) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 191476692 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:191476692) . ^ Jump up to: a b Lundburg, Dielle; Devoy, Julia (22 September 2022). "The Aftermath of Fast Fashion: How Discarded Clothes Impact Public Health and the Environment | SPH" (https://www.bu.edu/sph/news/articles/2022/the-aftermath-of-fast-fashion-how-discarded-clothes-impact-public-health-and-the-environment/) . BU School of Public Health . Retrieved 2023-03-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Copyright © 2023. "Why Recycle My Clothes?" (https://www.planetaid.org/whyrecyclemyclothes) . Planet Aid, Inc . Retrieved 2023-03-08 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_numeric_names:_authors_list) ) ^ Jump up to: a b c d "How Much Do Our Wardrobes Cost to the Environment?" (https://www.worldbank.org/en/news/feature/2019/09/23/costo-moda-medio-ambiente) . World Bank . 23 September 2019 . Retrieved 2023-03-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-:3_11-0) "Reasons Why Vintage Clothing Is Good For The Planet (And Your Wardrobe)" (https://vintagesuperstorecornwall.com/blogs/reasons-why-vintage-clothing-is-good-for-the-planet/reasons-why-vintage-clothing-is-good-for-the-planet-and-your-wardrobe) . VintageSuperstoreCornwall . 3 January 2023 . Retrieved 2023-03-08 . ^ Jump up to: a b Vanicore, Ludovica (2019). "Vintage fashion: an example of circular economy as a sustainable alternative to the fast fashion" (http://tesi.luiss.it/26218/1/215591_VANICORE_LUDOVICA.pdf) (PDF) . LUISS Guido Carli : 1–54. ^ Jump up to: a b "Why And How To Map Your Supply Chain" (http://www.commonobjective.co/article/why-and-how-to-map-your-supply-chain) . Common Objective . Retrieved 2023-03-29 . ^ Jump up to: a b Seavor, Jennifer (2018-11-08). "The risks of asbestos exposure from vintage products – and beyond" (https://www.rwkgoodman.com/info-hub/the-risks-of-asbestos-exposure-from-vintage-products-and-beyond/) . RWK Goodman . Retrieved 2023-03-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Meza, Ashley (24 September 2021). "The Thrifting Trend and the Negative Effects on Low-Income Communities – The Pacific Index" (https://pacindex.com/news/2021/05/07/the-thrifting-trend-and-the-negative-effects-on-low-income-communities/) . Retrieved 2023-03-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Thomas, Izzy. "Thrifting, sustainable and accessible fashion, under threat" (https://thewolfpacket.org/6610/opinions/thrifting-sustainable-and-accessible-fashion-under-threat/) . The Wolfpacket . Retrieved 2023-03-29 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Fast Fashion Market Size, Trends and Global Forecast To 2032" (https://www.thebusinessresearchcompany.com/report/fast-fashion-global-market-report) . www.thebusinessresearchcompany.com . 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Perfume for women L'eau d'Issey Fragrance (/wiki/Perfume) by Issey Miyake (/wiki/Issey_Miyake) Released 1992 Label Issey Miyake Parfums (/wiki/Issey_Miyake_Parfums) Flanker(s) (/wiki/Flanker_(perfume)) L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme L'eau d'Issey is a perfume (/wiki/Perfume) for women produced for Japanese fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) Issey Miyake (/wiki/Issey_Miyake) . [1] (#cite_note-The_Independent_-_26_January_2011_-_Upcoming_fragrance_launches:_Issey_Miyake,_Serge_Lutens,_Guerlain-1) "L'eau d'Issey" means "the water of Issey" in French. It is also a pun on "odyssey". [2] (#cite_note-2) It was introduced in 1992. [3] (#cite_note-Issey_Miyake_Parfums_-_L'eau_d'Issey-3) The " nose (/wiki/Perfumer) " for the perfume was Jacques Cavallier (/wiki/Jacques_Cavallier) . [4] (#cite_note-SMH_-_4_September_2009_-_Intense_is_a_classic_update_of_a_classic_scent-4) The fragrance is an aquatic floral, with top notes of Lotus, Melon, and Freesia, and a woody white musk base. A flanker (/wiki/Flanker_(perfume)) fragrance for men "L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme" was introduced in 1994 by Issey Miyake Parfums (/wiki/Issey_Miyake_Parfums) . [5] (#cite_note-L'eau_d'Issey_Pour_Homme_by_Issey_Miyake_Parfums-5) [4] (#cite_note-SMH_-_4_September_2009_-_Intense_is_a_classic_update_of_a_classic_scent-4) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-The_Independent_-_26_January_2011_-_Upcoming_fragrance_launches:_Issey_Miyake,_Serge_Lutens,_Guerlain_1-0) "Upcoming fragrance launches: Issey Miyake, Serge Lutens, Guerlain" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/upcoming-fragrance-launches-issey-miyake-serge-lutens-guerlain-2195262.html) . The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) . Independent Print Limited. 26 January 2011 . Retrieved 28 December 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey ~ fragrance review :: Now Smell This" (https://nstperfume.com/2016/06/17/issey-miyake-leau-dissey-fragrance-review/) . nstperfume.com . Retrieved 2023-10-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-Issey_Miyake_Parfums_-_L'eau_d'Issey_3-0) "L'eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake Parfums" (https://web.archive.org/web/20161025191027/http://www.isseymiyakeparfums.com/en/fragrances/leau-dissey) . Issey Miyake Parfums (/wiki/Issey_Miyake_Parfums) . Archived from the original (http://www.isseymiyakeparfums.com/en/fragrances/leau-dissey) on 25 October 2016 . Retrieved 28 December 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b Greenwood, Helen (4 September 2009). "Fragrance Review: L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Intense" (http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/luxury/intense-is-a-classic-update-of-a-classic-scent-20090903-f9zz.html) . The Sydney Morning Herald (/wiki/The_Sydney_Morning_Herald) . Fairfax Media (/wiki/Fairfax_Media) . Retrieved 28 December 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-L'eau_d'Issey_Pour_Homme_by_Issey_Miyake_Parfums_5-0) "L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme by Issey Miyake Parfums" (https://www.isseymiyakeparfums.com/mens-fragrances/l-eau-d-issey-pour-homme/) . Issey Miyake Parfums (/wiki/Issey_Miyake_Parfums) . Retrieved 28 December 2013 . External links [ edit ] L'eau d'Issey (http://www.basenotes.net/ID10211784.html) from Basenotes (/wiki/Basenotes) L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme (http://www.basenotes.net/ID26120927.html) from Basenotes (/wiki/Basenotes) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐l9t8d Cached time: 20240715024629 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.170 seconds Real time usage: 0.225 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 574/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 11499/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 445/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 22152/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.110/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4051743/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 212.375 1 -total 47.91% 101.759 1 Template:Reflist 36.02% 76.502 2 Template:Cite_news 33.75% 71.673 1 Template:Short_description 19.26% 40.903 2 Template:Pagetype 16.66% 35.392 1 Template:Infobox_fragrance 15.27% 32.437 1 Template:Infobox 8.38% 17.805 3 Template:Main_other 7.28% 15.461 1 Template:SDcat 5.30% 11.246 3 Template:Cite_web Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:41481385-0!canonical and timestamp 20240715024629 and revision id 1182697198. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=L%27eau_d%27Issey&oldid=1182697198 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=L%27eau_d%27Issey&oldid=1182697198) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Perfumes (/wiki/Category:Perfumes) Japanese fashion (/wiki/Category:Japanese_fashion) Products introduced in 1992 (/wiki/Category:Products_introduced_in_1992) Products introduced in 1994 (/wiki/Category:Products_introduced_in_1994) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata)
Polish sportswear company 4F Company type PLC (/wiki/Public_limited_company) Industry Textile (/wiki/Textile_industry) Founded 2007 ; 17 years ago ( 2007 ) Headquarters Wieliczka (/wiki/Wieliczka) , Poland (/wiki/Poland) Area served Europe (/wiki/Europe) Key people Igor Klaja (CEO) Products T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) , shorts (/wiki/Shorts) , jackets (/wiki/Jacket) , swimsuits (/wiki/Swimsuit) , sandals (/wiki/Sandal) , sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) Number of employees 850 Website 4fstore.com (https://4fstore.com/) 4F is a Polish clothing (/wiki/Clothing) company established in 2003 and headquartered in Wieliczka (/wiki/Wieliczka) , in southern Poland (/wiki/Poland) . The company is owned by OTCF S.A. whose other subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) include brands like Outhorn and 4Faces. It offers sports, tourism and casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) clothing as well as accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) . The brand currently operates 230 stores in East-Central Europe and its products are present in around 500 multi-brand (/wiki/Multi-brand) stores in 40 countries. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-historia-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) 4F manufactures a wide range of sportswear and casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) products, such as t-shirts (/wiki/T-shirts) , shorts (/wiki/Shorts) , jackets (/wiki/Jacket) , swimsuits (/wiki/Swimsuit) , sandals (/wiki/Sandal) , flip-flops (/wiki/Flip-flops) , bags (/wiki/Bag) and backpacks (/wiki/Backpack) . The company's sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) includes ski suits (/wiki/Ski_suit) and bicycle helmets (/wiki/Bicycle_helmet) . 4F store in Poland History [ edit ] In 2003, the Horn Partner company (currently OTCF S.A.) opened its first retail store (/wiki/Retail_store) offering sportswear under the 4Fun brand. In 2007, the company changed the name to 4F Performance, and since 2010 it has adopted the 4F name. In 2008, it officially started cooperation with the Polish Olympic Committee (/wiki/Polish_Olympic_Committee) (PKOl). The brand was selected to dress Polish athletes at the 2010 Winter Olympics (/wiki/2010_Winter_Olympics) in Vancouver (/wiki/Vancouver) , 2012 Summer Olympics (/wiki/2012_Summer_Olympics) in London (/wiki/London) , 2014 Winter Olympics (/wiki/2014_Winter_Olympics) in Sochi (/wiki/Sochi) , [4] (#cite_note-4) 2015 European Games (/wiki/2015_European_Games) in Baku (/wiki/Baku) as well as 2016 Summer Olympics (/wiki/2016_Summer_Olympics) in Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_de_Janeiro) . [5] (#cite_note-5) It also provided sportswear clothing to young Polish athletes at the Youth Olympic Games (/wiki/Youth_Olympic_Games) in Singapore (/wiki/2010_Summer_Youth_Olympics) and Nanjing (/wiki/2014_Summer_Youth_Olympics) . Besides the PKOl, since 2010, the company has also been collaborating with the Polish Paralympic Committee. [6] (#cite_note-6) 4F cooperates with seven other national olympic committees and has dressed 8 national representations, including teams from Poland, Serbia (/wiki/Serbia) , [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) Croatia (/wiki/Croatia) , Latvia, [10] (#cite_note-10) Greece (/wiki/Greece) , [11] (#cite_note-11) North Macedonia (/wiki/North_Macedonia) , [12] (#cite_note-12) Lithuania (/wiki/Lithuania) and Slovakia (/wiki/Slovakia) . [13] (#cite_note-13) In 2016, 4F company opened its first stores abroad in Latvia (/wiki/Latvia) , Slovakia (/wiki/Slovakia) , Romania (/wiki/Romania) and the Czech Republic (/wiki/Czech_Republic) . [14] (#cite_note-14) The brand is also an official partner of such organizations as the Polish Ski Federation (2007), Polish Biathlon Association (2010), Polish Athletic Association (/wiki/Polish_Athletic_Association) (2013), [15] (#cite_note-15) Polish Speed Skating (/wiki/Speed_Skating) Association (2014), the Polish Handball Federation (2017) and the Slovak Biathlon Association (2018). [16] (#cite_note-16) [2] (#cite_note-historia-2) In 2018, the 4F company was unveiled as one of the officials presenting sponsors (/wiki/Sponsor_(commercial)) of the Four Hills Tournament (/wiki/Four_Hills_Tournament) held in Germany (/wiki/Germany) and Austria (/wiki/Austria) for the next four upcoming editions of the event [17] (#cite_note-17) as well as the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships (/wiki/FIS_Alpine_World_Ski_Championships) in 2021. [18] (#cite_note-18) The company also opened its first store in Asia in Bangkok (/wiki/Bangkok) , Thailand. [19] (#cite_note-19) In 2020, the company became one of the official global partners of the 7th edition of the Wings for Life World Run (/wiki/Wings_for_Life_World_Run) . [20] (#cite_note-20) The company also opened its first flagship store in Ukraine in Kyiv (/wiki/Kyiv) with two more openings planned by the end of the year. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2021, the company had begun its cooperation with the Polish volleyball team ZAKSA Kędzierzyn-Koźle (/wiki/ZAKSA_K%C4%99dzierzyn-Ko%C5%BAle) , the winner of 2020–21 CEV Champions League (/wiki/2020%E2%80%9321_CEV_Champions_League) . [22] (#cite_note-22) From the last EuroBasket 2022 (/wiki/EuroBasket_2022) , the company became the new official supplier of Poland national basketball team (/wiki/Poland_national_basketball_team) played at home. From the 2023/2024 season the brand also became the new official kit supplier of the Slovak basketball champion's BK Inter Bratislava (/wiki/BK_Inter_Bratislava) team. Ambassadors of the brand [ edit ] Iwona Bernardelli (/wiki/Iwona_Bernardelli) – long-distance runner Marcin Chabowski (/wiki/Marcin_Chabowski) – long-distance runner Natalia Czerwonka (/wiki/Natalia_Czerwonka) – speed skater Paulína Fialková (/wiki/Paul%C3%ADna_Fialkov%C3%A1) – biathlete Slavomír Glesk (/w/index.php?title=Slavom%C3%ADr_Glesk&action=edit&redlink=1) – ultra trail runner Paula Gorycka (/wiki/Paula_Gorycka) – cyclist Jakub Grigar (/wiki/Jakub_Grigar) – slalom canoeist [23] (#cite_note-23) Monika Hojnisz (/wiki/Monika_Hojnisz) – biathlete Maciej Kot (/wiki/Maciej_Kot) – ski jumper Łukasz Kubot (/wiki/%C5%81ukasz_Kubot) – tennis player [24] (#cite_note-24) Wilfredo Leon (/wiki/Wilfredo_Leon) – volleyball player [25] (#cite_note-25) Robert Lewandowski (/wiki/Robert_Lewandowski) – footballer [26] (#cite_note-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) Katarzyna Niewiadoma (/wiki/Katarzyna_Niewiadoma) – cyclist Alina Rotaru-Kottmann (/wiki/Alina_Rotaru-Kottmann) – long jumper [28] (#cite_note-28) Kamil Stoch (/wiki/Kamil_Stoch) – ski jumper [29] (#cite_note-29) See also [ edit ] Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) Fashion industry (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Economy of Poland (/wiki/Economy_of_Poland) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "O nas" (https://www.otcf.pl/o-nas) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Historia" (https://www.otcf.pl/o-nas/historia) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "4F rusza na podbój kolejnego rynku. Pierwszy salon w stolicy naszego sąsiada" (https://businessinsider.com.pl/finanse/handel/4f-rusza-na-podboj-kolejnego-rynku-nowy-salon-w-kijowie/fesz62s) . Retrieved 2020-08-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "SOCZI 2014: ZOBACZ STROJE NASZYCH OLIMPIJCZYKÓW" (https://www.przegladsportowy.pl/igrzyska-olimpijskie/soczi-2014-pokaz-kolekcji-strojow-reprezentacji-polski/879x8xp) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Rio 2016: zaprezentowano stroje polskich olimpijczyków" (https://sport.onet.pl/lekkoatletyka/rio-2016-zaprezentowano-stroje-polskich-olimpijczykow/g8zk2v) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Pokaz kolekcji para- i olimpijskiej na Rio 2016" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170222053208/http://niepelnosprawni.pl/ledge/x/324919;jsessionid=E9EA6E939CCFACEA8A94111A2D067F22#ad-image-0) . Archived from the original (https://niepelnosprawni.pl/ledge/x/324919;jsessionid=E9EA6E939CCFACEA8A94111A2D067F22#ad-image-0) on 2017-02-22 . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Marka 4F ubierze Serbów podczas igrzysk w Rio" (https://manager.money.pl/prosto-z-firm/artykul/marka-4f-ubierze-serbow-podczas-igrzysk-w-rio,210,0,2004946.html) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "The best and worst dressed nations at the Olympics opening ceremony" (https://www.heraldsun.com.au/sport/olympics/the-best-and-worst-dressed-nations-at-the-olympics-opening-ceremony/news-story/197fa23e9398483334dc41b93003336f) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Amazing athletes, energy and pride we all share with each other promoting the best of the game" (https://twitter.com/DjokerNole/status/762242470059110400/photo/1) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "4F for Latvian Olympic Team" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190107015823/https://www.otcf.pl/en/media-section/news/4f-for-latvian-olympic-team) . Archived from the original (https://www.otcf.pl/en/media-section/news/4f-for-latvian-olympic-team) on 2019-01-07 . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Team Greece kit up with 4F for PyeongChang 2018" (https://www.sportspromedia.com/news/team-greece-kit-up-with-4f-for-pyeongchang-2018) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Olympic Committiees" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190107072107/https://www.otcf.pl/en/about-us/olympic-committees) . Archived from the original (https://www.otcf.pl/en/about-us/olympic-committees) on 2019-01-07 . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Polish sportswear firm is Olympic winner after partnering with Eight countries" (https://www.thefirstnews.com/article/polish-sportswear-firm-is-olympic-winner-after-partnering-with-eight-countries-24124) . Retrieved 20 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "About 4F" (https://web.archive.org/web/20201221181049/https://4fstore.com/) . Archived from the original (https://4fstore.com/) on 2020-12-21 . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "4F rozpoczyna współpracę z Polskim Związkiem Lekkiej Atletyki" (https://4outdoor.pl/2013/08/07/4f-rozpoczyna-wsp%C3%B3%C5%82prac%C4%99-z-polskim-zwi%C4%85zkiem-lekkiej-atletyki/) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Sports Associations" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190107072110/https://www.otcf.pl/en/about-us/sports-associations) . Archived from the original (https://www.otcf.pl/en/about-us/sports-associations) on 2019-01-07 . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "4F unveiled as presenting partner for Four Hills Tournament" (https://www.insidethegames.biz/articles/1064436/4f-unveiled-as-presenting-partner-for-four-hills-tournament) . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Who we are" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190107015816/https://www.otcf.pl/en/about-us/who-we-are) . Archived from the original (https://www.otcf.pl/en/about-us/who-we-are) on 2019-01-07 . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Polska firma 4F otworzyła sklep w Tajlandii" (https://businessinsider.com.pl/finanse/handel/pierwszy-sklep-marki-4f-w-tajlandii/d577wnc) . Retrieved 2020-08-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Wielki sukces polskiej marki. 4F Globalnym Partnerem 7. Światowego Biegu Wings for Life" (https://noizz.pl/sport/koszulke-techniczna-na-wings-for-life-na-calym-swiecie-zrobi-polska-marka-4f/bkx3xej) . Retrieved 2020-08-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "4F rusza na podbój kolejnego rynku. Pierwszy salon w stolicy naszego sąsiada" (https://businessinsider.com.pl/finanse/handel/4f-rusza-na-podboj-kolejnego-rynku-nowy-salon-w-kijowie/fesz62s) . Retrieved 2020-08-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Firma 4F została partnerem technicznym Grupy Azoty ZAKSA Kędzierzyn-Koźle" (http://www.lokalna24.pl/wiadomosci/8410,firma-4f-zostala-partnerem-technicznym-grupy-azoty-zaksa-kedzierzyn-kozle) (in Polish) . Retrieved 20 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Alina Rotaru-Kottmann i Jakub Grigar nowymi ambasadorami marki 4F. Firma OTCF chce rozwijać się na rynkach międzynarodowych" (https://www.wiadomoscihandlowe.pl/handel-i-dystrybucja/sklepy-odziezowe-obuwnicze-i-sportowe/marka-4-f-ma-dwoch-nowych-zagranicznych-ambasadorow-firma-chce-rozwijac-sie-na-rynkach-miedzynarodowych-2448731) . wiadomoscihandlowe.pl (in Polish). 3 March 2023 . Retrieved 30 September 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Tenisista serwuje – 4F Łukasz Kubot Collection" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170222111145/http://www.tenisklub.pl/aktualnosci/polska/25605/tenisista-serwuje-%E2%80%93-4f-lukasz-kubot-collection/) . Archived from the original (https://www.tenisklub.pl/aktualnosci/polska/25605/tenisista-serwuje-%E2%80%93-4f-lukasz-kubot-collection/) on 2017-02-22 . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "WILFREDO LEON AMBASADOREM 4F" (https://bramapomorza.pl/wilfredo-leon-ambasadorem-4f/) . Retrieved 2021-08-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Robert Lewandowski nowym ambasadorem marki 4F" (https://nowymarketing.pl/a/30380,4f-x-rl9-robert-lewandowski-nowym-ambasadorem-marki-4f) . Retrieved 2021-01-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Robert Lewandowski ambasadorem znanej marki sportowej. Kolekcja piłkarza już wkrótce" (https://www.onet.pl/sport/onetsport/robert-lewandowski-dolaczyl-do-4f-kolekcja-pilkarza-juz-wkrotce/pwqm5jg,d87b6cc4) . Retrieved 2021-01-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Alina Rotaru-Kottmann i Jakub Grigar nowymi ambasadorami marki 4F. Firma OTCF chce rozwijać się na rynkach międzynarodowych" (https://www.wiadomoscihandlowe.pl/handel-i-dystrybucja/sklepy-odziezowe-obuwnicze-i-sportowe/marka-4-f-ma-dwoch-nowych-zagranicznych-ambasadorow-firma-chce-rozwijac-sie-na-rynkach-miedzynarodowych-2448731) . wiadomoscihandlowe.pl (in Polish). 3 March 2023 . Retrieved 30 September 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "KOLEKCJA LIMITOWANA" (https://4f.com.pl/kamil-stoch) . 4f.com.pl . Retrieved 2019-01-06 . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://4fstore.com/) v t e Sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) brands This list includes companies that produce sports equipment. List by sport include only current products manufactured Multi-sports Acerbis (/wiki/Acerbis) Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) Admiral (/wiki/Admiral_Sportswear) AFA (/wiki/AFA_Sports) Alpine Pro (/wiki/Alpine_Pro) Anta (/wiki/Anta_Sports) Arc'teryx (/wiki/Arc%27teryx) Asics (/wiki/Asics) Atletica (/wiki/Atletica) BLK (/wiki/BLK_(sportswear)) Burley-Sekem (/wiki/Burley-Sekem) Castore (/wiki/Castore) Champion (/wiki/Champion_(sportswear)) Charly (/wiki/Charly_(brand)) Classic (/wiki/Classic_Sportswear) Descente (/wiki/Descente) Diadora (/wiki/Diadora) ERKE (/wiki/ERKE) Erreà (/wiki/Erre%C3%A0) EvoShield (/wiki/EvoShield) FBT (/wiki/FBT_(company)) Fila (/wiki/Fila) Fischer (/wiki/Fischer_(company)) 4F Garcis (/wiki/Garcis) Givova (/wiki/Givova) Grand Sport (/wiki/Grand_Sport_Group) Grays (/wiki/Grays_International) Head (/wiki/Head_(company)) Hummel (/wiki/Hummel_International) ISC (/wiki/ISC_(sportswear)) Jako (/wiki/Jako) Joma (/wiki/Joma) Kappa (/wiki/Kappa_(brand)) Kelme (/wiki/Kelme_(company)) Kookaburra (/wiki/Kookaburra_Sport) Le Coq Sportif (/wiki/Le_Coq_Sportif) Legea (/wiki/Legea) Li-Ning (/wiki/Li-Ning) Lotto (/wiki/Lotto_Sport_Italia) Luanvi (/wiki/Luanvi) Lululemon (/wiki/Lululemon_Athletica) Macron (/wiki/Macron_(sportswear)) Majestic (/wiki/Majestic_Athletic) Mikasa (/wiki/Mikasa_Sports) Mitchell & Ness (/wiki/Mitchell_%26_Ness) Mitre (/wiki/Mitre_Sports_International) Mizuno (/wiki/Mizuno_Corporation) Molten (/wiki/Molten_Corporation) Oakley (/wiki/Oakley,_Inc.) 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This template does not require a rating on Wikipedia's content assessment (/wiki/Wikipedia:Content_assessment) scale. It is of interest to the following WikiProjects (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject) : Fashion (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Fashion) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) This template is within the scope of WikiProject Fashion (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Fashion) , a collaborative effort to improve the coverage of Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) on Wikipedia. If you would like to participate, please visit the project page, where you can join the discussion (/wiki/Wikipedia_talk:WikiProject_Fashion) and see a list of open tasks. Fashion Wikipedia:WikiProject Fashion Template:WikiProject Fashion fashion articles Sanitation (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Sanitation) This template is within the scope of WikiProject Sanitation (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Sanitation) , a collaborative effort to improve the coverage of Sanitation (/wiki/Sanitation) on Wikipedia. If you would like to participate, please visit the project page, where you can join the discussion (/wiki/Wikipedia_talk:WikiProject_Sanitation) and see a list of open tasks. Sanitation Wikipedia:WikiProject Sanitation Template:WikiProject Sanitation sanitation articles __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONDESKTOP__{&quot;headingLevel&quot;:2,&quot;name&quot;:&quot;h-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z&quot;,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;heading&quot;,&quot;level&quot;:0,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;h-History_of_laundry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z&quot;,&quot;replies&quot;:[&quot;c-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z-History_of_laundry&quot;],&quot;text&quot;:&quot;History of laundry&quot;,&quot;linkableTitle&quot;:&quot;History of laundry&quot;} History of laundry [ edit ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-History_of_laundry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z","replies":["c-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z-History_of_laundry"]}} __DTLATESTCOMMENTTHREAD__{"id":"c-Reify-tech-2014-03-19T15:03:00.000Z-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z","timestamp":"2014-03-19T15:03:00.000Z"}__ __DTCOMMENTCOUNT__2__ __DTAUTHORCOUNT__2__ __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONMOBILE__{&quot;headingLevel&quot;:2,&quot;name&quot;:&quot;h-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z&quot;,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;heading&quot;,&quot;level&quot;:0,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;h-History_of_laundry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z&quot;,&quot;replies&quot;:[&quot;c-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z-History_of_laundry&quot;],&quot;text&quot;:&quot;History of laundry&quot;,&quot;linkableTitle&quot;:&quot;History of laundry&quot;} As I understand, laundry management was one of the starts to the consumer movement in the sense that it was the start of standardized washing practices which were set in publication and propagated for uniform compliance. Maybe it was Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (/wiki/Mrs_Beeton%27s_Book_of_Household_Management) or some other book from the era, but I know I have seen some early accounts of how laundry is to be managed and that there are modern commentaries on the beginnings of laundry. Someday I would like to make articles about this. Blue Rasberry (talk) 14:33, 19 March 2014 (UTC) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Laundry_navbox#c-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z-History_of_laundry) [ reply ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"timestamp":"2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z","author":"Bluerasberry","type":"comment","level":1,"id":"c-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z-History_of_laundry","replies":["c-Reify-tech-2014-03-19T15:03:00.000Z-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z"],"displayName":"Blue Rasberry"}} There is some historical coverage in the Laundry (/wiki/Laundry) article, but there's plenty of room for improvement. There's also historical material at Washing machine (/wiki/Washing_machine) and Homemaking (/wiki/Homemaking) . Coverage of health and social effects should be consolidated into one place, probably the Laundry article. I look forward to seeing your contributions. Reify-tech (/wiki/User:Reify-tech) ( talk (/wiki/User_talk:Reify-tech) ) 15:03, 19 March 2014 (UTC) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Laundry_navbox#c-Reify-tech-2014-03-19T15:03:00.000Z-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z) [ reply ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"timestamp":"2014-03-19T15:03:00.000Z","author":"Reify-tech","type":"comment","level":2,"id":"c-Reify-tech-2014-03-19T15:03:00.000Z-Bluerasberry-2014-03-19T14:33:00.000Z","replies":[]}} NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐57d74c944b‐9qxxc Cached time: 20240721212452 Cache expiry: 864000 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] DiscussionTools time usage: 0.010 seconds CPU time usage: 0.164 seconds Real time usage: 0.249 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 223/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 14396/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 10/100 Expensive parser function count: 11/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 11256/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.113/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 1619781/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 198.327 1 Template:WikiProject_banner_shell 100.00% 198.327 1 -total 49.61% 98.386 1 Template:WikiProject_Fashion 6.48% 12.855 1 Template:WikiProject_Sanitation 1.69% 3.359 2 Template:Pagetype Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:42246945-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721212452 and revision id 1232799480. 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Small handbag, originally with a drawstring closure, and often decorated with beadwork A reticule A reticule , also known as a ridicule or indispensable , was a type of small handbag or purse (/wiki/Handbag) , similar to a modern evening bag (/wiki/Evening_bag) , used mainly from 1795 to 1820. [1] (#cite_note-hist-1) According to the American Heritage Dictionary (/wiki/American_Heritage_Dictionary) , the name "reticule" came from the French (/wiki/French_language) réticule , which in turn came from the Latin (/wiki/Latin) reticulum , a diminutive of rete , or "net". [2] (#cite_note-dict-2) The reticule became popular with the advent of Regency fashions (/wiki/Regency_fashions) in the late 18th century. Previously, women had carried personal belongings in pockets tied around the waist, but the columnar skirts and thin fabrics that had come into style made pockets essentially unusable. [1] (#cite_note-hist-1) [3] (#cite_note-heyer-3) When the reticule first appeared, it was made of netting (/wiki/Net_(textile)) . As time went by, they were made from various fabrics, including velvet (/wiki/Velvet) , silk (/wiki/Silk) , and satin (/wiki/Satin) . [4] (#cite_note-house-4) A reticule usually had a drawstring (/wiki/Drawstring) closure at the top and was carried over the arm on a cord or chain. Reticules were made in a variety of styles and shapes and sometimes trimmed with embroidery or beading. Women often made their own reticules. [1] (#cite_note-hist-1) [3] (#cite_note-heyer-3) [5] (#cite_note-tassen-5) See also [ edit ] 1795–1820 in Western fashion (/wiki/1795%E2%80%931820_in_Western_fashion) References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Reticules (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Reticules) . ^ Jump up to: a b c Yarwood, Doreen (/wiki/Doreen_Yarwood) (2011) [1978]. Illustrated History of World Costume . Mineola, New York: Dover Publications, Inc. p. 21. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-486-43380-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-dict_2-0) reticule. (n.d.) American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fifth Edition. (2011). Retrieved May 19, 2016 from http://www.thefreedictionary.com/reticule (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/reticule) ^ Jump up to: a b Kloester, Jennifer (2010) [2005]. Georgette Heyer's Regency World . Sourcebooks, Inc. p. 206 (https://archive.org/details/georgetteheyersr00kloe_0/page/206) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4022-4136-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-house_4-0) reticule. (n.d.) Random House Kernerman Webster’s College Dictionary. (2010). Retrieved May 19, 2016 from http://www.thefreedictionary.com/reticule (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/reticule) ^ (#cite_ref-tassen_5-0) "The History of Bags and Purses" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181118020751/http://tassenmuseum.nl/en/knowledge-centre/history-of-bags-and-purses/) . Tassen Museum Hendrikje Museum of Bags and Purses . Archived from the original (http://tassenmuseum.nl/en/knowledge-centre/history-of-bags-and-purses/) on 18 November 2018. v t e Bags (/wiki/Bag) and flexible containers (/wiki/Container) Carried Bayong (/wiki/Bayong) Bindle (/wiki/Bindle) Briefcase (/wiki/Briefcase) Bugout bag (/wiki/Bugout_bag) Dillybag (/wiki/Dillybag) Dromedary bag (/wiki/Dromedary_bag) Flight bag (/wiki/Flight_bag) Gaji bag (/wiki/Gaji_bag) Grocery bag (/wiki/Grocery_bag) Hambiliya (/wiki/Hambiliya) Handbag (/wiki/Handbag) Haversack (/wiki/Haversack) Laundry bag (/wiki/Red-white-blue_bag) Medical bag (/wiki/Medical_bag) Money bag (/wiki/Money_bag) Nuclear briefcase (/wiki/Nuclear_briefcase) Plastic shopping bag (/wiki/Plastic_shopping_bag) Red box (government) (/wiki/Red_box_(government)) Reticule Reusable shopping bag (/wiki/Reusable_shopping_bag) Shell purse (/wiki/Shell_purse) Shopping bag (/wiki/Shopping_bag) String bag (/wiki/String_bag) Survival bag (/wiki/Survival_bag) Swag (/wiki/Swag_(bedroll)) Tote bag (/wiki/Tote_bag) Tucker bag (/wiki/Tucker_bag) Worn Backpack (/wiki/Backpack) ( Canoe pack (/wiki/Canoe_pack) , Duluth pack (/wiki/Duluth_pack) ) Bandolier bag (/wiki/Bandolier_bag) Bivouac sack (/wiki/Bivouac_shelter) Book bag (/wiki/Book_bag) Fanny pack (/wiki/Fanny_pack) Golf bag (/wiki/Golf_bag) Lightweight Rucksack (/wiki/Lightweight_Rucksack) Medicine bag (/wiki/Medicine_bag) Messenger bag (/wiki/Messenger_bag) Pack basket (/wiki/Pack_basket) Pasiking (/wiki/Pasiking) Randoseru (/wiki/Randoseru) Sabretache (/wiki/Sabretache) Satchel (/wiki/Satchel) Sporran (/wiki/Sporran) Takiding (/wiki/Takiding) Luggage (/wiki/Baggage) Bug-out bag (/wiki/Bug-out_bag) Carpet bag (/wiki/Carpet_bag) Diaper bag (/wiki/Diaper_bag) Diplomatic bag / pouch (/wiki/Diplomatic_bag) Duffel bag (/wiki/Duffel_bag) Garment bag (/wiki/Garment_bag) Gig bag (/wiki/Gig_bag) Gladstone bag (/wiki/Gladstone_bag) Hobo bag (/wiki/Hobo_bag) Holdall (/wiki/Holdall) Nomadic bag (/wiki/Nomadic_bag) Norfolk case (/wiki/Norfolk_cases) Portmanteau (/wiki/Portmanteau_(luggage)) Saddlebag (/wiki/Saddlebag) Suitcase (/wiki/Suitcase) Toiletry bag (/wiki/Toiletry_bag) Train case (/wiki/Train_case) Travel pack (/wiki/Travel_pack) Trunk (/wiki/Trunk_(luggage)) Postal Catcher pouch (/wiki/Catcher_pouch) Mail bag (/wiki/Mail_bag) Mail pouch (/wiki/Mail_pouch) Mail sack (/wiki/Mail_sack) Mail satchel (/wiki/Mail_satchel) Mochila (/wiki/Pony_Express_mochila) Padded envelope (/wiki/Padded_envelope) Portmanteau (/wiki/Portmanteau_(mail)) Containers Antistatic bag (/wiki/Antistatic_bag) Bag-in-box (/wiki/Bag-in-box) Bin bag (/wiki/Bin_bag) Biodegradable bag (/wiki/Biodegradable_bag) Bota bag (/wiki/Bota_bag) Coffee bag (/wiki/Coffee_bag) Flexible intermediate bulk container (/wiki/Flexible_intermediate_bulk_container) Boil-in-bag (/wiki/Boil-in-bag) Fuel bladder (/wiki/Fuel_bladder) Mashk (/wiki/Mashk) Milk bag (/wiki/Milk_bag) Packet (container) (/wiki/Packet_(container)) Paper bag (/wiki/Paper_bag) Paper sack (/wiki/Paper_sack) Parfleche (/wiki/Parfleche) Pastry bag (/wiki/Pastry_bag) Pipe bag (/wiki/Pipe_bag) Plastic bag (/wiki/Plastic_bag) Purdue Improved Crop Storage bags (/wiki/Purdue_Improved_Crop_Storage_bags) Reusable shopping bag (/wiki/Reusable_shopping_bag) Sachet (/wiki/Sachet) Security bag (/wiki/Security_bag) Shopping bag (/wiki/Shopping_bag) Stand-up pouch (/wiki/Stand-up_pouch) Thermal bag (/wiki/Thermal_bag) Tobacco pouch (/wiki/Tobacco_pouch) Trash bag (/wiki/Trash_bag) Wineskin (/wiki/Wineskin) Zipper storage bag (/wiki/Zipper_storage_bag) Purses/handbags (/wiki/Handbag) Bayong (/wiki/Bayong) Birkin bag (/wiki/Birkin_bag) Coin purse (/wiki/Coin_purse) Evening bag (/wiki/Evening_bag) Gaji bag (/wiki/Gaji_bag) Gucci Diana (/wiki/Gucci_Diana) Handbag (/wiki/Handbag) It bag (/wiki/It_bag) Kelly bag (/wiki/Kelly_bag) Kinchaku (/wiki/Kinchaku) Lady Dior (/wiki/Lady_Dior) Messenger bag (/wiki/Messenger_bag) Minaudière (/wiki/Minaudi%C3%A8re) Money bag (/wiki/Money_bag) Reticule Tote bag (/wiki/Tote_bag) Wallet (/wiki/Wallet) Wristlet (/wiki/Handbag#Types_of_handbags) Other Body bag (/wiki/Body_bag) Burn bag (/wiki/Burn_bag) Cowboy bedroll (/wiki/Cowboy_bedroll) Doggy bag (/wiki/Doggy_bag) Dry bag (/wiki/Dry_bag) Electronic flight bag (/wiki/Electronic_flight_bag) Feedbag (/wiki/Feedbag) Flour sack (/wiki/Flour_sack) Gamow bag (/wiki/Gamow_bag) Gunny sack (/wiki/Gunny_sack) Poop bag (/wiki/Poop_bag) Sandbag (/wiki/Sandbag) Schultüte (/wiki/Schult%C3%BCte) Showbag (/wiki/Showbag) Sickness bag (/wiki/Sickness_bag) Sleeping bag (/wiki/Sleeping_bag) Stuff sack (/wiki/Stuff_sack) Throw bag (/wiki/Throw_bag) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/4787831-9) This fashion (/wiki/Fashion) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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American fashion designer For the composer, see The Play of the Week (/wiki/The_Play_of_the_Week) . Maurice Levin (January 6, 1926 – August 30, 2007) [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) was an American fashion designer, working in both men's and women's fashion in the 1950s through 1970s. He worked as a designer for Jantzen (/wiki/Jantzen) , Alex Colman of California, American Cyanamid (/wiki/American_Cyanamid) , and Catalina. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) About [ edit ] Maurice Levin was born in 1926 in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , New York. [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) He graduated in Costume Design from Traphagen School of Fashion (/wiki/Traphagen_School_of_Fashion) in 1949. [5] (#cite_note-5) After graduation Levin moved to Los Angeles to attend University of California, Los Angeles (/wiki/University_of_California,_Los_Angeles) (UCLA) majoring in Social Science with curriculum in Apparel Design. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) In the 1950s he worked for the Jantzen (/wiki/Jantzen) swimwear brand, and popularized the trend of the color pink worn on men. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) He won two Caswell-Massey (/wiki/Caswell-Massey) awards for design. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) His work is in various public museum collections including Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Museum_of_Contemporary_Art) (LACMA), [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) among others. Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum's (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Design_%26_Merchandising_Museum) Special Collections has a Maurice Levin Archive. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Social Security Death Index: Maurice Levin" (https://www.fold3.com/record/9186055/maurice-levin-social-security-death-index) . Fold3 . Ancestry.com, Social Security Administration . Retrieved July 3, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Maurice Levin obituary" (https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries/latimes/name/maurice-levin-obituary?n=maurice-levin&pid=93692225) . Legacy.com . Los Angeles Times. September 2, 2007 . Retrieved July 3, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "Intern Report: Maurice Levin Archive" (https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2016/09/intern-report-maurice-levin-archive.html) . FIDM Museum Blog . Retrieved 2020-03-18 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Maurice Levin" (https://collections.lacma.org/node/158492) . LACMA Collections . Retrieved 2020-03-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Traphagen Alumni, The Traphagen School: Fostering American Fashion" (https://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/traphagen-school/traphagen-alumni/) . FIT Museum . Retrieved 2020-03-17 . This biographical article related to fashion is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Maurice_Levin&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐9pmjj Cached time: 20240712205529 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.220 seconds Real time usage: 0.292 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 498/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 11243/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 422/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 23549/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.159/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3911298/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 273.491 1 -total 37.12% 101.530 1 Template:Reflist 32.03% 87.588 5 Template:Cite_web 23.79% 65.054 1 Template:Short_description 23.22% 63.504 1 Template:Fashion-bio-stub 22.59% 61.781 1 Template:Asbox 12.58% 34.417 2 Template:Pagetype 7.58% 20.726 3 Template:Main_other 7.32% 20.031 1 Template:Authority_control 6.94% 18.967 1 Template:About Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:63395324-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712205529 and revision id 1177294671. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Maurice_Levin&oldid=1177294671 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Maurice_Levin&oldid=1177294671) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Fashion biography stubs (/wiki/Category:Fashion_biography_stubs) 1926 births (/wiki/Category:1926_births) 2007 deaths (/wiki/Category:2007_deaths) Traphagen School of Fashion alumni (/wiki/Category:Traphagen_School_of_Fashion_alumni) University of California, Los Angeles alumni (/wiki/Category:University_of_California,_Los_Angeles_alumni) American fashion designers (/wiki/Category:American_fashion_designers) Artists from Los Angeles (/wiki/Category:Artists_from_Los_Angeles) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)
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A type of Chinese wedding dress Qungua Qungua in Hong Kong, 2020 Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) 裙褂 Literal meaning Skirt jacket Transcriptions Standard Mandarin (/wiki/Standard_Chinese) Hanyu Pinyin (/wiki/Hanyu_Pinyin) Qúnguà Yue: Cantonese (/wiki/Cantonese) Jyutping (/wiki/Jyutping) Kwan4 gwaa3 Qungua ( Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 裙褂 ; Jyutping (/wiki/Jyutping) : kwan4 gwaa3 ), also known as longfenggua ( simplified Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 龙凤褂 ; traditional Chinese (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters) : 龍鳳褂 ), [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) or longfeng qungua ( simplified Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 龙凤裙褂 ; traditional Chinese (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters) : 龍鳳裙褂 ), [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) or guaqun ( Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 褂裙 ; Jyutping (/wiki/Jyutping) : gwaa3 kwan4 ), [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) is one type of two-piece ceremonial traditional Chinese wedding (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_marriage) set of attire, which is composed of a jacket called gua ( 褂 ) and of a long Chinese skirt called qun (/wiki/Qun) ( 裙 ). The qungua is a type of Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) worn by Han Chinese (/wiki/Han_Chinese) brides [4] (#cite_note-:6-4) and originated in the 18th century during the Qing dynasty. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) It eventually became the traditional wedding attire of Cantonese (/wiki/Cantonese_people) brides in the Guangdong (/wiki/Guangdong) regions. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) It is traditionally handmade and is decorated with dragons and phoenixes embroideries. [6] (#cite_note-6) Nowadays, the qungua is still popular as a wedding dress in China (/wiki/China) , including in Hong kong (/wiki/Hong_Kong) and Macau (/wiki/Macau) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Origins and tradition [ edit ] A qungua found in Hong Kong Museum of History (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Museum_of_History) . Back in Ming dynasty (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) , the women wedding dress worn by nobles and commoners was known as fengguan xiapei (/wiki/Fengguan_xiapei) ( Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 凤冠霞帔 ) composed of the fengguan (/wiki/Fengguan) and xiapei (/wiki/Xiapei) . [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) The wedding dress worn in Ming dynasty continued to influence the wedding dress of the later centuries. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) What is known as qungua only started to be worn in the 18th century during the Qing dynasty (/wiki/Qing_dynasty) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) The qungua originated in Guangdong (/wiki/Guangdong) when Liang Zhu , a Guangdong Qing dynasty (/wiki/Qing_dynasty) politician, was rewarded with a silk wedding dress embroidered with dragons and phoenixes by the Qing Emperor at the time of his daughter's wedding. [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) This led to the use qungua in the Guangdong area. [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) In 18th century, Chinese mothers would start to sew the qungua as soon as a daughter was born in the family. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) The qungua would then be placed as a part of the daughter's bride dowry when she gets married. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) The qungua follows the ancient traditional system of shangyi xiachang (/wiki/Ruqun) ( Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 上衣下裳 ; upper and lower garment). [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) Construction and Design [ edit ] The qungua is composed of two separate garments: a gua ( Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 褂 ; pinyin (/wiki/Pinyin) : guà ; Jyutping (/wiki/Jyutping) : gwaa3 ; lit. 'coat'), which is a Chinese jacket which closes at the front with buttons, [4] (#cite_note-:6-4) and a qun (/wiki/Qun) ( Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 裙 ; pinyin (/wiki/Pinyin) : qún ; Jyutping (/wiki/Jyutping) : kwan4 ; lit. ' skirt (/wiki/Skirt) '). [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) The qun worn in the qungua is typically straight in cut. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) The skirt could be pleated. [8] (#cite_note-8) Colour [ edit ] While Western wedding dress (/wiki/Wedding_dress) tends to be white in colour, Chinese traditional wedding clothing favours the use of red and gold colour. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) The gua was originally black in colour while the skirt was originally red in colour. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) The gua which is completely red in colour only appeared in the 1960s. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) Since then the traditional black gua and red qun started to be used for the bride's mother instead of being worn by the brides themselves. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) Bride wearing Qing dynasty qungua . Qungua (left) worn by Chinese brides, 1900s. Qungua is a two-piece garment attire: black gua and red qun. Long skirt qun Red gua Construction of a black gua jacket. Black gua Embroidery [ edit ] See also: Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing (/wiki/Chinese_auspicious_ornaments_in_textile_and_clothing) The qungua is typically embroidered with the Chinese dragons called long (/wiki/Chinese_dragon) ( simplified Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 龙 ; traditional Chinese (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters) : 龍 ) and the Chinese phoenix called feng (/wiki/Fenghuang) ( simplified Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 凤 ; traditional Chinese (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters) : 鳳 ). [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) It can also be decorated with other auspicious symbols, such as pomegranate (symbolism for fertility), peony flowers, lotus flowers, bats, goldfish, butterfly and birds. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) Nowadays, there are 5 different types of qungua which is named accordingly to the percentage of embroidery covering the dress: [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Xiaowufu ( 小五福 ): 30% covered with embroidery, Zhongwufu ( 中五福 ): 50% covered with embroidery Dawufu ( 大五福 ): 70% covered with embroidery Guahou ( 褂后 ): 90% covered with embroidery Guahuang ( 褂皇 ): 100% covered with embroidery Derivatives and influences [ edit ] Betawi Bridal dress [ edit ] The Betawi (/wiki/Betawi_people) bridal dress, partly influenced by Chinese culture (/wiki/Chinese_culture) and by Indonesian culture (/wiki/Culture_of_Indonesia) , looks similar to the Chinese qungua . [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) Like the qungua , the Betawi bridal dress is a two-piece set of attire which composed of an ankle-length with wider bottom skirt called kun and an upper garment called tuaki . [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) The tuaki is decorated with Chinese auspicious symbols (/wiki/Chinese_auspicious_ornaments_in_textile_and_clothing) . [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) One difference from the qungua is the use of Betawi Lotus , also known as Betawi pomegranate , a separate ornamental garment which covers the chest and shoulder areas (similar to the yunjian (/wiki/Yunjian) of the Chinese people). [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) The Betawi lotus was used to denote the origins of the Betawi bride, but it was eventually replaced by beads which typically follows the Spanish cherry floral pattern. [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) The kun and tuaki must match in colour. [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) Chinese Bride in Batavia in her wedding dress, 1870. The dress is heavily influenced by Chinese culture but also shows subtle differences. Betawi (/wiki/Betawi_people) bride and groom, 2008. Differences with other garments [ edit ] Main article: Traditional Chinese wedding dress (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_wedding_dress) Fengguan xiapei [ edit ] The qungua is different from the fengguan xiapei (/wiki/Fengguan_xiapei) ( Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 凤冠霞帔 ), another type of Traditional Han Chinese (/wiki/Han_Chinese) wedding set of attire, which was worn in Ming (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) and Qing (/wiki/Qing_dynasty) dynasties [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) in terms of composition of garments and accessories which the qungua lacks of. The fengguan xiapei is a set of attire which was composed of red mang ao (/wiki/Mangfu) ( Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 蟒袄 ; lit. 'python jacket'), which is a type of Ming dynasty-style round-collar robe (/wiki/Yuanlingshan) decorated with dragons, which was worn by Han Chinese women as a court robe; a xiapei (/wiki/Xiapei) ( Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 霞帔 ), which is a type of long scarf in Ming and a type of stole in Qing dynasty; a mangchu (/wiki/Mangfu) ( Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 蟒裙 ; lit. 'Python skirt'), which is a skirt which can be red or green and is embroidered with dragons (/wiki/Chinese_dragon) and phoenixes (/wiki/Fenghuang) on the front and back skirt lapels), and the fengguan (/wiki/Fengguan) , the phoenix coronet. [9] (#cite_note-:5-9) The Wedding attire is sometimes decorated with Chinese cloud collar known as yunjian (/wiki/Yunjian) . [9] (#cite_note-:5-9) Portrait of lady in fengguan xiapei in Qing dynasty, Qing dynasty fengguan xiapei (凤冠霞帔), a yunjian (/wiki/Cloud_collar) is on top of the attire. Xiuhefu [ edit ] The qungua is distinct from another Chinese wedding set of attire called Xiuhefu (/wiki/Xiuhefu) ( simplified Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 秀禾服 ; traditional Chinese (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters) : 繡和服 ). [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) The Xiuhefu typically has an overlapping jacket which closes to the right side (instead of the qungua central closing jacket) which is worn with an A-line skirt ( qun ) which looks similar to a mamianqun (/wiki/Mamianqun) instead of a straight cut skirt. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) The Xiuhefu is typically embroidered with flowers and birds to symbolize love for whole seasons. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) A bride in Xiuhefu between Taihedian and Zhonghedian, 2022 A bride in Xiuhefu near Xiehemen, 2022 Cheongsam [ edit ] Chinese bride wearing cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) with a honggaitou (/wiki/Honggaitou) covering her face for wedding ceremony. The qungua is different from the cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) which can also be worn as a Traditional Chinese wedding dress. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) The qungua is a two-piece garment composed of jacket and skirts while the modern cheongsam is currently a one-piece robe. [4] (#cite_note-:6-4) Prior to the 1930s and the 1940s, the cheongsam was also a two-piece set of garment which was composed of a long robe and was worn with a pair of trousers. [4] (#cite_note-:6-4) See also [ edit ] Traditional Chinese wedding dress (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_wedding_dress) Fengguan (/wiki/Fengguan) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Ruqun (/wiki/Ruqun) Traditional Chinese marriage (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_marriage) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i "To Have And To Embroider: The "Long Feng Gua" Wedding Tradition | US-China Institute" (https://china.usc.edu/have-and-embroider-%E2%80%9Clong-feng-gua%E2%80%9D-wedding-tradition) . china.usc.edu . Retrieved 2021-06-04 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e JNTT (2020-07-30). "SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT" (https://www.theredwedding.com/post/same-same-but-different) . The Red Wedding . Retrieved 2021-06-04 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j Li, Yuling (2019). New meaning in traditional wedding dresses – Xiu He Fu and Long Feng Gua – in contemporary China [Master's Thesis] . Cultural Centre, University of Malaya (masters). pp. i-102. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Qiao, Nan; Tan, Yan-rong (2017). "Talk About the Chinese Wedding Dress of Modern Women" (https://www.dpi-proceedings.com/index.php/dtssehs/article/view/18048/17554) . 2017 3rd International Conference on Social, Education and Management Engineering (SEME 2017) : 299–301. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "Chinese Wedding Traditions: Qun Gua | Hong Kong Wedding Blog" (https://brideandbreakfast.hk/2016/01/28/chinese-wedding-traditions-qun-gua/) . 2016-01-28 . Retrieved 2021-06-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Technique of Making Hong Kong Cheongsam and Kwan Kwa Wedding Costume - Home" (https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/ICHO/en_US/web/icho/representative_list_cheongsam_kwan_kwa.html) . www.lcsd.gov.hk . Retrieved 2022-08-17 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Indonesia-Taiwan Relations: Searching for Better Understanding . Prof. Dr. Tirta Nugraha Mursitama, Ph.D., Dr. Shidarta, M.Hum., Dr. Yi Ying, M.Lit., M.Pd. Penerbit Andi. 2021. pp. 52–63. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9786230112744 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: others ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others) ) ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Chinese Wedding Gown (Qun Gua)" (https://collections.qm.qld.gov.au/objects/CH61199/chinese-wedding-gown-qun-gua) . Queensland Museum Collections Online . Retrieved 2021-06-04 . ^ Jump up to: a b Garrett, Valery M. (2007). Chinese dress : from the Qing Dynasty to the Present . Tokyo: Tuttle Pub. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8048-3663-0 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 154701513 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/154701513) . 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Canadian hat company (founded 1980) Tilley hat Tilley Endurables is a Canadian hat company founded in 1980 by Alex Tilley, [1] (#cite_note-FP-1) which also manufactures travel clothing and some accessories. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Tilley expanded the product line to shorts and pants designed for sailing, but soon found that many of the Tilley products were being used for travel. Tilley then expanded into "lightweight, easy to pack, practical travel clothing". [4] (#cite_note-TorStar-4) The original hat was made of cotton duck (/wiki/Cotton_duck) and included a brim that snaps up. [5] (#cite_note-5) As the hats were originally made for sailing, they include two straps to prevent them from blowing off. Tilley customers often write stories on the Tilley website, explaining strange experiences they have had with the hats. [4] (#cite_note-TorStar-4) One such story (and shown as part of an advertisement) includes a hat being eaten by an elephant, and defecated out later that week entirely intact. [6] (#cite_note-elephant_tales-6) In 2015, Tilley sold the company to the Canadian subsidiary of the UK-based Hilco Capital (/wiki/Hilco_Capital) . [1] (#cite_note-FP-1) In 2018 Hilco Capital sold the company to Toronto, Canada-based Gibraltar & Company (https://www.gibraltarcompany.ca/) . [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Canada's Tilley Endurables sold to U.K. company known for investing in distressed companies" (http://business.financialpost.com/news/retail-marketing/canadas-tilley-endurables-sold-to-u-k-company-known-for-investing-in-distressed-companies) . Financial Post. 15 July 2015 . Retrieved 9 January 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Canada's Tilley Endurables sold to U.K. company known for investing in distressed companies" (http://business.financialpost.com/news/retail-marketing/canadas-tilley-endurables-sold-to-u-k-company-known-for-investing-in-distressed-companies) . Financial Post . Retrieved 2016-05-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Tilley" (https://www.tilley.com/ca_en/) . CAN ENG - INTERNATIONAL . Retrieved 2016-05-17 . ^ Jump up to: a b Flavelle, Dana (13 January 2015). "Tilley Endurables is up for sale" (https://www.thestar.com/business/2015/01/13/tilley_endurables_is_up_for_sale.html) . Toronto Star . Retrieved 9 January 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Creager, Ellen. "Travelers around the world tip their hats to Alex Tilley" (https://www.freep.com/story/travel/2015/07/22/tilley-hat-goes-world/28993627/) . Detroit Free Press . Retrieved 2023-12-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-elephant_tales_6-0) Waugh, Neil (23 December 2015). "Outdoors with Neil Waugh: The Twelve Birds of Christmas" (http://www.edmontonsun.com/2015/12/23/outdoors-with-neil-waugh-the-twelve-birds-of-christmas) . Edmonton Sun . Retrieved 9 January 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Singh, Prachi (30 July 2018). "Hilco sells Canadian brand Tilley to Gibraltar & Company" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/hilco-sells-canadian-brand-tilley-to-gibraltar-company/2018073031007) . Fashion United . Retrieved 13 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "GIBRALTAR & COMPANY ACQUIRES TILLEY ENDURABLES FROM HILCO CAPITAL" (https://gowlingwlg.com/en/insights-resources/client-work/2018/gibraltar-company-acquires-tilley-endurables/) . 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Aspen Fashion Week Status Inactive Frequency Annual Location(s) Aspen, Colorado Country United States Years active 2008-2014 Founded Lisa Johnson Most recent 2014 President Brooke Fogg Aspen Fashion Week (AFW), (later Aspen International Fashion Week (AIFW)), was a series of annual end of winter fashion week (/wiki/Fashion_week) events held in Aspen, Colorado (/wiki/Aspen,_Colorado) . [1] (#cite_note-1) The weeklong event included outdoor après-ski (/wiki/Apr%C3%A8s-Ski) fashion shows, retail and boutique events and parties. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) History [ edit ] The event was founded by Lisa Johnson in 2008. [3] (#cite_note-3) In 2011, tickets to the event cost $1,500. [4] (#cite_note-4) The 2012 event began with a stunt skydiver performance by a local Aspen extreme athlete (/wiki/Extreme_athlete) . [5] (#cite_note-5) Rebrand [ edit ] Weeks before the scheduled event in 2013, Aspen Fashion Week announced a cancellation. After a financial dispute and then lawsuit between organizers and local modeling agency Wilhelmina Denver (/wiki/Wilhelmina_Models) , the show was taken over by the agency under the new name; Aspen International Fashion Week. The rebranded event was held from March 13 to 16, 2014. The event has not returned since. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) See also [ edit ] List of fashion events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) List of fashion events in the United States (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events_in_the_United_States) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "The #1 Blog in Aspen, Colorado, Skiing, News, Events, Mountain LifeStyle, Social Media, Travel, Opinion - Home" (http://www.aspenspin.com/journal/tag/aspen-fashion-week) . www.aspenspin.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230626013957/http://www.aspenspin.com/journal/tag/aspen-fashion-week) from the original on 2023-06-26 . Retrieved 2023-06-26 . ^ Jump up to: a b Emilie, Rusch (2014-02-26). "Aspen International Fashion Week brings runway back to ski town" (https://www.denverpost.com/2014/02/26/aspen-international-fashion-week-brings-runway-back-to-ski-town/) . The Denver Post . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230626012736/https://www.denverpost.com/2014/02/26/aspen-international-fashion-week-brings-runway-back-to-ski-town/) from the original on 2023-06-26 . Retrieved 2023-06-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Ski-Wear Turns Fashiony at Aspen Fashion Week" (https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2010/03/aspen-fashion) . Vanity Fair . 2010-03-24 . Retrieved 2023-06-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Superyachts.com. "Aspen Fashion Week 2011: The Round-Up" (https://www.superyachts.com/lifestyle/story/aspen-fashion-week-2011:-the-roundup-597/) . www.superyachts.com . Retrieved 2023-06-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Bentley Kicks Off Aspen Fashion Week With Extreme Athlete, Ted Davenport" (https://www.luxuriousmagazine.com/bentley-kicks-off-aspen-fashion-week-with-extreme-athlete-ted-davenport/) . Luxurious Magazine . 2012-03-20. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230626014854/https://www.luxuriousmagazine.com/bentley-kicks-off-aspen-fashion-week-with-extreme-athlete-ted-davenport/) from the original on 2023-06-26 . Retrieved 2023-06-26 . This Colorado (/wiki/Colorado) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Aspen_Fashion_Week&action=edit) . v t e This fashion (/wiki/Fashion) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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1963 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1963) 1964 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1964) 1965 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1965) 1966 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1966) 1967 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1967) 1968 1969 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1969) 1970 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1970) 1971 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1971) 1972 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1972) 1973 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1973) Clothing companies (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies) established in 1968 (/wiki/Category:Companies_established_in_1968) — companies in fashion−design &/or manufacturing−retailing of clothing. Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) 1960s portal (/wiki/Portal:1960s) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐7974fdbb48‐f8t58 Cached time: 20240718094249 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.102 seconds Real time usage: 0.195 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 69/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 3177/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 84/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 5/100 Expensive parser function count: 13/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 4114/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.076/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 933544/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 181.403 1 -total 86.15% 156.275 1 Template:Navseasoncats 12.35% 22.400 1 Template:Portal 1.36% 2.471 2 Template:C Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:52036608-0!canonical and timestamp 20240718094249 and revision id 929988296. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Pages in category "Clothing companies established in 1968" The following 8 pages are in this category, out of 8 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . A André Laug (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Laug) C Calvin Klein (fashion house) (/wiki/Calvin_Klein_(fashion_house)) E Esprit Holdings (/wiki/Esprit_Holdings) Etro (/wiki/Etro) H Halston (/wiki/Halston) J Jil Sander (brand) (/wiki/Jil_Sander_(brand)) K Kiton (/wiki/Kiton) S Sheico (/wiki/Sheico) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1968&oldid=929988296 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1968&oldid=929988296) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1960s fashion (/wiki/Category:1960s_fashion) Clothing companies by year of establishment (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_by_year_of_establishment) Design companies established in 1968 (/wiki/Category:Design_companies_established_in_1968) Manufacturing companies established in 1968 (/wiki/Category:Manufacturing_companies_established_in_1968) Clothing companies established in the 20th century (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_the_20th_century)
This article contains content that is written like an advertisement (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_soapbox_or_means_of_promotion) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Milk_Makeup&action=edit) by removing promotional content (/wiki/Wikipedia:Spam) and inappropriate external links (/wiki/Wikipedia:External_links#Advertising_and_conflicts_of_interest) , and by adding encyclopedic content written from a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . ( February 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Milk Makeup LLC Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) Industry Beauty Founded February 2016 ; 8 years ago ( 2016-02 ) Key people Tim Coolican ( CEO (/wiki/CEO) ) Mazdack Rassi (/wiki/Mazdack_Rassi) (product developer) Dianna Ruth ( COO (/wiki/Chief_operating_officer) ) Georgie Greville (Creative Director) Owner Waldencast Partners LP Milk Makeup is a New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) -based cosmetics and skin care company created by the founders of Milk Studios. Despite its name, it is 100% vegan. [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] Milk Makeup was launched in February 2016 [2] (#cite_note-2) and was founded in New York City by Milk Studios co-founder Mazdack Rassi (/wiki/Mazdack_Rassi) , fashion editor, and entertainment reporter Zanna Roberts Rassi (/wiki/Zanna_Roberts_Rassi) , creative director Georgie Greville and product developer Dianna Ruth. [3] (#cite_note-3) Media executive Scott Sassa (/wiki/Scott_Sassa) serves as chairman. [4] (#cite_note-4) The company's products were initially distributed by Sephora (/wiki/Sephora) . [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) In addition to Sephora and the brand’s own website, Milk Makeup is currently sold at Cult Beauty, [6] (#cite_note-6) Space NK, [7] (#cite_note-7) and Amazon. In 2017, the company received an investment from Main Post Partners.  It was acquired by Waldencast along with Obagi in June 2022. [8] (#cite_note-8) Milk Makeup has collaborated with a number of different brands and partners. In November 2018, the company collaborated with Wu-Tang (/wiki/Wu-Tang_Clan) and TRUE NYC, paying homage to their NYC roots and celebrating self-expression, strength, and the creative connection between them. In 2023, they partnered with Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) [9] (#cite_note-9) on a limited edition line of sneakers, and with Awake NY on a range of self-care essentials. [10] (#cite_note-10) Products [ edit ] Milk Makeup began with a lineup of 85 SKUs (/wiki/Stock_keeping_unit) including lipsticks and blotting papers. [11] (#cite_note-11) The brand gained attention in the online beauty community, following the release of a cannabis oil-infused mascara, KUSH Mascara. The ingredient is promoted as a lash conditioner and has since been included in a multitude of products, within the brand's 'KUSH' line. In 2019, Milk Makeup also made a name for itself with the launch of its now cult-fave Hydro Grip Primer. This was followed by the equally viral Hydro Grip Set + Refresh Spray. [12] (#cite_note-12) Reception [ edit ] Milk Makeup has received praise from publications such as Vogue (/wiki/Vogue.com) , [13] (#cite_note-13) Teen Vogue (/wiki/Teen_Vogue) [14] (#cite_note-14) Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) , and InStyle Magazine (/wiki/InStyle_Magazine) . [15] (#cite_note-15) The brand's Hydro Grip Primer won an Allure (/wiki/Allure_(magazine)) Best of Beauty award for best primer in 2019. [16] (#cite_note-16) In 2022, its liquid Bionic Blush won a Best in Black Beauty award from Essence (/wiki/Essence_(magazine)) [17] (#cite_note-17) and RISE Mascara (https://milkmakeup.com/products/rise-mascara) won a Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) Beauty Award. [18] (#cite_note-18) The company has also been noted for its use of 'atypical' models, such as Sabina Karlsson (/wiki/Sabina_Karlsson) , and LGBT models. [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) In March 2021, the company announced that they would donate 1% of all annual sales from their website to The Center, their longtime LGBTQIA+ advocacy partner in New York. They have also been noted for their 2021 partnership with the Fashion Scholarship Fund to support Black scholars and students of color. [21] (#cite_note-21) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Steinfeld, Sara (2016-01-29). "Milk Studios Launches a Makeup Collection for Busy Adults With Important Things to Do" (http://www.thegloss.com/beauty/milk-studios-makeup-collection-launch/) . The Gloss . Retrieved 29 January 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Wischhover, Cheryl. "Milk Launches A Makeup Line For Cool Girls Who Are Time-Crunched" (http://fashionista.com/2016/02/milk-makeup) . Fashionista . Retrieved 8 February 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Noble, Audrey (March 23, 2016). "Got Milk? Makeup Essentials for the Cool Girl on the Go" (https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2016/03/got-milk-makeup-essentials-for-the-cool-girl-on-the-go) . Vanity Fair . Retrieved October 27, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Zanna Roberts Rassi Co-Founder of Milk Makeup on the Beauty Industry and Must-Have Products" (https://aeworld.com/beauty/zanna-roberts-rassi-co-founder-of-milk-makeup-on-the-beauty-industry-and-must-have-products/) . A&E Magazine . 2020-09-06 . Retrieved 2022-03-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-:0_5-0) Phelan, Hayley (November 1, 2016). "Inside Milk Makeup's Formula for Success" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/inside-milk-makeups-formula-for-success) . Business of Fashion . Retrieved October 28, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Space NK Bets on Experiential Stores, Viral Brands for Growth" (https://www.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/milk-makeup-to-launch-in-the-u-k-on-cultbeauty-1202954930/) . The Business of Fashion . 2023-05-29 . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Space NK Bets on Experiential Stores, Viral Brands for Growth" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/beauty/space-nk-bets-on-experiential-stores-viral-brands-for-growth/) . The Business of Fashion . 2023-05-29 . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Waldencast Announces $1.2 Billion Three-Way Business Combination with Obagi and Milk Makeup as a First Step in its Strategy to Create a Global Multi-Brand Beauty and Wellness Platform" (https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20211115005796/en/Waldencast-Announces-1.2-Billion-Three-Way-Business-Combination-with-Obagi-and-Milk-Makeup-as-a-First-Step-in-its-Strategy-to-Create-a-Global-Multi-Brand-Beauty-and-Wellness-Platform) . www.businesswire.com . 2021-11-15 . Retrieved 2024-02-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Sullivan, Claire (2023-04-14). "You Can Now Shop Reebok x Milk Makeup's Sneaker and Apparel Collaboration" (https://wwd.com/shop/shop-fashion/reebok-x-milk-makeup-collaboration-1235613436/) . WWD . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Milk Makeup X Awake NY Link Up, Inspired The Ultimate NYC-Centric Collaboration" (https://hypebae.com/2023/8/milk-makeup-awake-ny-fashion-limited-edition-lip-balm-body-butter-hand-cream-collaboration-release-price-info) . Hypebae . 2023-08-04 . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Blakely, Lindsay (2016-06-28). "Meet the Entrepreneur Behind Fashion's Biggest Insurgent Brand" (http://www.inc.com/magazine/201607/lindsay-blakely/mazdack-rassi-milk-studios-production.html) . Inc.com . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Milk Makeup's New Face Mist Joins Its Beloved Primer In The Hydro Grip Family" (https://www.thezoereport.com/p/milk-makeups-hydro-grip-set-refresh-spray-is-a-welcome-follow-up-to-the-brands-beloved-primer-33044677) . The Zoe Report . 2020-09-03 . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Guadagnino, Kate. "Introducing the First New Breakout Makeup Line of 2016—And the 8 Products You Need to Buy From It" (http://www.vogue.com/slideshow/13382533/milk-makeup-new-best-products-lipstick-blush-sunshine-oil/) . Vogue.com . Retrieved 21 December 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Williamson, Sue. "Meet Your New Favorite Low Maintenance Beauty Line" (http://www.teenvogue.com/gallery/milk-makeup-line#1) . TeenVogue.com . , ^ (#cite_ref-15) Mychaskiw, Marianne. "The Cool-Girl Makeup Range You've Always Wanted Has Arrived" (http://www.instyle.com/news/milk-studios-makeup-line) . InStyle . Retrieved 29 January 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Presenting the Winners of Allure's Best of Beauty Awards for 2019" (https://www.allure.com/story/best-of-beauty-2019-winners) . Allure . 2019-09-16 . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Best In Black Beauty Awards 2022 — Makeup" (https://www.essence.com/beauty/best-in-black-beauty-makeu-2022/) . Essence . 2022-04-13 . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "30 Clean Beauty Products That Are Truly Worth Your Money" (https://www.glamour.com/gallery/best-clean-beauty-products) . Glamour . 2020-03-25 . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Lubitz, Rachel. "Sabina Karlsson on curve and plus-size models in makeup campaigns: "I'm shocked it took this long" (https://m.mic.com/articles/185568/sabina-karlsson-on-curve-and-plus-size-models-in-makeup-campaigns-im-shocked-it-took-this-long) " (https://m.mic.com/articles/185568/sabina-karlsson-on-curve-and-plus-size-models-in-makeup-campaigns-im-shocked-it-took-this-long) . Mic.com . Retrieved October 27, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Dalal, Avanti (2018-10-21). "Brands, icons and influencers who are breaking through gender norms" (https://www.vogue.in/content/brands-icons-and-influencers-who-are-breaking-through-gender-norms/) . Vogue India . Retrieved October 27, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Manso, James (2021-04-29). "Milk Makeup Partners With Fashion Scholarship Fund" (https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/milk-makeup-partners-fashion-scholarship-fund-1234812472/) . WWD . Retrieved 2023-08-25 . 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American fashion designer Marty Ruza of "Ruza Creations"/"Elegant Belts" was an American designer of leather fashion accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessories) who won a Coty Award (/wiki/Coty_Award) for jewelry design (/wiki/Jewelry_design) in 1970. He was described by the fashion journalist Eleanor Lambert (/wiki/Eleanor_Lambert) as the "leader of the fringed leather and beads school". [1] (#cite_note-el-1) Ruza won his Special Coty Award along with five other jewelry designers - Bill Smith (/wiki/Bill_Smith_(jewelry_designer)) , Daniel Stoenescu and Steven Brody at Cadoro (/wiki/Cadoro) , Alexis Kirk (/wiki/Alexis_Kirk) , and Cliff Nicholson (/wiki/Clifton_Nicholson) . [2] (#cite_note-mcdowell-2) For the Coty show, his jewelry, along with matching belts and bags, was showcased in a short film montage by Milton Greene (/wiki/Milton_Greene) . [3] (#cite_note-blass-3) Whilst his leather goods were described as jewel-like, Ruza's company, Elegant Belts, specialised in belts, bags and headbands rather than focussing on jewelry like the other recipients of the Special award. [1] (#cite_note-el-1) [4] (#cite_note-mohr-4) Among Ruza's designs were the "sewing bag tote (/wiki/Tote_bag) " designed for women who wanted to carry their needlework around with them, [5] (#cite_note-5) and bags and belts in embroidered vinyl. [6] (#cite_note-6) Elegant Belts was still in business in the early 1980s, with Ruza as its president. [7] (#cite_note-7) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Lambert, Eleanor (19 September 1970). "Ethnic Theme Monopolises Front Seat in Fashion" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2506&dat=19700919&id=45lIAAAAIBAJ&sjid=vgkNAAAAIBAJ&pg=4164,4626742) . The News and Courier . Retrieved 29 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-mcdowell_2-0) McDowell, Colin (1984). McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion . Frederick Muller. pp. 299–301. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-584-11070-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-blass_3-0) Lady Fare (29 September 1970). "Bill Blass Named to Hall of Fame" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=7ZlIAAAAIBAJ&sjid=vgkNAAAAIBAJ&pg=699,7047025&dq=up-tied+eileen+richardson&hl=en) . The News and Courier . Retrieved 14 December 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-mohr_4-0) Mohr, Berta (25 September 1970). "Mohr about Fashion: Patterns and Prints lead Winning Designs" (http://fultonhistory.com/newspaper%2010/Yonkers%20NY%20Herald%20Statesman/Yonkers%20NY%20Herald%20Statesman%201970%20Grayscale/Yonkers%20NY%20Herald%20Statesman%201970%20a%20%20Grayscale%20-%200413.pdf) (PDF) . The Herald Statesman . Retrieved 30 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) McCormack, Patricia (5 January 1972). "Embroidery's the Thing for Spring" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=098bAAAAIBAJ&sjid=sFEEAAAAIBAJ&pg=5207,234805&dq=marty-ruza&hl=en) . The Dispatch . Retrieved 30 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) O'Sullivan, Joan (20 April 1972). "Stitches in Time" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1955&dat=19720420&id=BgkrAAAAIBAJ&sjid=qpkFAAAAIBAJ&pg=6249,6847600) . Reading Eagle . Retrieved 30 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Belt-Tightening Times Good for Belt Makers". Los Angeles Times . 19 November 1982. Marty Ruza, president of one belt-manufacturing company, says the first six months this year were his best season in years. This article about an American person related to fashion is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Marty_Ruza&action=edit) . v t e This article about a fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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French fashion designer (1896 - 1971) Portrait de Maggy Rouff Par Serge Ivanoff, Paris, 1948. Signature of Maggy Rouff, cut from 1946 publicity for the textiles of Robert Perrier (/wiki/Robert_Perrier) . Maggy Rouff (September 1, 1896– August 7, 1971) [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) was a French fashion designer of Belgian origin. [2] (#cite_note-vp-2) Family and early life [ edit ] Maggy Rouff was born Marguerite de Wagner in 1896, [3] (#cite_note-3) to a Belgian couple (though Madame de Wagner was German-born). [4] (#cite_note-4) In 1902, Rouff's parents opened a couture house in Paris under the name Drécoll. This was a branch of the well-known Viennese fashion house Drécoll. Founded in 1896 by Christoff von Drécoll, the fashion house was a favorite of the Austro-Hungarian imperial family. [5] (#cite_note-5) Monsieur and Madame de Wagner paid for the right to use the Drécoll name in Paris while designing their own fashions. [6] (#cite_note-6) Career [ edit ] Marguerite (Maggy) de Wagner married Pierre Besançon in October 1917 in Paris and both subsequently adopted the name Besançon de Wagner. In 1929, Marguerite Besançon de Wagner opened a new fashion house at 136 avenue des Champs Elysees (/wiki/Champs-%C3%89lys%C3%A9es) under the name Maggy Rouff. [7] (#cite_note-7) Rouff was known for her understated sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) designs at the beginning of her career, and later for the feminine detailing in her garments such as ruffles (/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)) , shirring (/wiki/Shirring) , and the bias cut (/wiki/Bias_(textile)) . [8] (#cite_note-8) In 1937, Rouff opened a London outpost at 12a Stanhope Gate, Park Lane. The business was housed in an old home which Rouff decorated herself. [9] (#cite_note-9) In the 1930s, Rouff headed PAIS (Association pour la Protection des Arts Plastiques et Appliques, also known as the Association pour la Protection des Industries Artistiques Saisonnieres), one of the most important anti-piracy and counterfeiting trade networks in Paris couture, which was founded by Madeleine Vionnet (/wiki/Madeleine_Vionnet) in 1922. [2] (#cite_note-vp-2) Famous clients [ edit ] Maggy Rouff is listed as costume designer or as part of the costume department for twelve films between 1938 and 1961. [10] (#cite_note-10) The latter films may have been designed by Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner using the Maggy Rouff label. In 1938, the "children of France" gifted Princess Elizabeth (/wiki/Elizabeth_II) and Princess Margaret (/wiki/Princess_Margaret,_Countess_of_Snowdon) two dresses and a set of handkerchiefs. [11] (#cite_note-11) Other well-known clients included Grace Kelly (/wiki/Grace_Kelly) [12] (#cite_note-12) and Clarissa Churchill Eden (/wiki/Clarissa_Eden) . [13] (#cite_note-13) Writings [ edit ] Rouff wrote two books, American Seen Through the Microscope , about her travels in the United States, and Philosophy of Elegance . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Later life [ edit ] Rouff retired in 1948. Her daughter Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner took over the business. The house closed in 1965 after failing to attract younger customers. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c Alford, Holly Price; Stegemeyer, Anne (2014-09-25). Who's Who in Fashion . Bloomsbury Publishing USA. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781609019693 . ^ Jump up to: a b Pouillard, Véronique (2008). "In the Shadow of Paris?" (https://books.google.com/books?id=vRKu_r1VnAUC&pg=PA66) . In Regina Lee Blaszczyk (ed.). Producing fashion commerce, culture, and consumers . Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press. p. 66. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780812206050 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Notice no. 19800035/1090/25308" (https://www.leonore.archives-nationales.culture.gouv.fr/ui/notice/32619) . Base Léonore (/wiki/Base_L%C3%A9onore) (in French). ^ (#cite_ref-4) Reeder, Jan Glier (2010). High style : masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art . New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 64. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781588393630 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "House of Drécoll | Dinner dress | Austrian | The Met" (http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157457) . The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum . Retrieved 2016-09-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "NMAH | Costume Collection" (http://amhistory.si.edu/costume/object.cfm?recordnumber=365571) . amhistory.si.edu . 4 August 2015 . Retrieved 2016-09-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Sumathi, G. J. (2007-01-01). Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design . New Age International. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9788122413717 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Koda, Harold (2003). Goddess : the classical mode . New York, NY: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 131. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780300098822 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Wilson, Betty (November 20, 1937). "Champagne Party to Show New Season's Frocks" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1301&dat=19371120&id=WFZVAAAAIBAJ&pg=4685,3303070&hl=en) . The Sydney Morning Herald . Retrieved September 15, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Maggy Rouff" (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1754982/) . IMDb . Retrieved 2016-09-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Explore the Royal Collection online" (https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/search#/page/1) . www.royalcollection.org.uk . Retrieved 2016-09-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) LIFE . Time Inc. 1959-10-26. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Devonshire, Deborah Mitford, Duchess of Deborah Mitford, Duchess of; Mosley, Charlotte (2010-11-09). Wait for Me!: Memoirs . Macmillan. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781429917933 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/49484728) National France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb14655751t) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb14655751t) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/107329565) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n91106133) Artists Victoria (https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/explore/collection/artist/27567/) This article about a French artist is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Late 1960s pink and purple cotton print dress by Laura Ashley (/wiki/Laura_Ashley) with fringed shoulder bag A granny dress is a long one-piece gown (/wiki/Gown) or dress (/wiki/Dress) that was popular with young women in the United States (/wiki/United_States) and Britain (/wiki/United_Kingdom) from the mid-1960s to the 1970s. Granny dresses were loose-fitting and often printed with light or pastel colours, giving them a vaguely Victorian-era (/wiki/Victorian_era) feel. History [ edit ] Granny dresses had a high neckline (/wiki/Neckline) and the hems (/wiki/Hemline) were ankle length. [1] (#cite_note-:5-1) They could also be decorated with buttons, lace, or ruffles, and may display leg-of-mutton sleeves (/wiki/Sleeve) . [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) As the trend continued, the hemline of the dress could also end just above the knees. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) The dress became more sophisticated by the late 1960s. [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERobbins199754-5) It was typically seen as a modest dress that covered a larger portion of the body, as opposed to more exposing attire seen at the time. [1] (#cite_note-:5-1) The dresses were also considered inexpensive. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) The look was part of a greater neo-Victorian (/wiki/Neo-Victorian) trend. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) A Life (/wiki/Life_(magazine)) magazine spread featured Ringo Starr (/wiki/Ringo_Starr) with a model wearing a crocheted (/wiki/Crochet) granny dress and also featured women in Victorian-like settings. [7] (#cite_note-7) The style reminded people of a simpler, less complicated time, therefore making the dress more popular. [8] (#cite_note-8) The trend was predominantly associated with the youth movement, rather than the older generation suggested by the dress name. [9] (#cite_note-9) It tended to be associated with both mod (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) and hippie (/wiki/Hippie) groups. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) The granny dress offered an alternative to mini dresses and was a symbol of rebellion. [10] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERobbins199746-10) Girls talked about it taking "nerve" to wear such an old-fashioned style. [11] (#cite_note-11) Granny dresses are most often associated with the designer Laura Ashley (/wiki/Laura_Ashley) , who started selling these dresses to women in the Welsh (/wiki/Wales) countryside in the late 1950s. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) The trend made it to the United States (/wiki/United_States) where it was embraced in California (/wiki/California) and then moved eastward. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) [1] (#cite_note-:5-1) [12] (#cite_note-12) Granny dress parties and dances were held. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) One account credits the creation of the dress to designer George Wilner, who worked at Mr. Aref of California. [15] (#cite_note-15) Wilner based his design on a calico (/wiki/Calico) dress that a retailer from Glendale (/wiki/Glendale,_California) showed him. [16] (#cite_note-:3-16) Wilner adapted the calico dress design to be more of an empire-style (/wiki/Empire_silhouette) , similar to dresses worn by Empress Josephine (/wiki/Empress_Jos%C3%A9phine) . [16] (#cite_note-:3-16) An article describing the "new craze" credited the origin to Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) . [17] (#cite_note-17) An apocryphal (/wiki/Apocrypha) story about the origin of the dress was that it came into fashion after a dancer was told by a television disc jockey (/wiki/Disc_jockey) that her dress was too short. [18] (#cite_note-:7-18) In response, the dancer found a floor-length dress to wear and started a fashion craze. [18] (#cite_note-:7-18) Another apocryphal origin story had an old woman wearing such a dress on a tour of "night spots" in Los Angeles. [19] (#cite_note-:8-19) The woman's youthful vigour "attracted attention" and a designer, believing her style of dress helped her stay active, copied her dress design. [19] (#cite_note-:8-19) Granny dresses have also been popular in various regions in Egypt (/wiki/Egypt) in the 1980s. [20] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERugh198619-20) [21] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERugh198626-21) [22] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERugh198629-22) In the 1990s, there was a brief resurgence of the dress concurrent with the popularity of grunge (/wiki/Grunge_fashion) . [23] (#cite_note-:9-23) This time, granny dresses were considered to be any kind of loose-fitting frock (/wiki/Frock) and could be paired with nearly any accessory. [23] (#cite_note-:9-23) Controversy [ edit ] In the past, there were instances where students wearing granny dresses to school were suspended or sent home. For example, in Oakland (/wiki/Oakland,_California) in 1965, girls were sent home for wearing granny dresses that were deemed too long. [24] (#cite_note-24) In Kansas City, Missouri (/wiki/Kansas_City,_Missouri) , a mother even wore her own granny dress to school in an attempt to convince the principal to allow her daughter to wear one after the dress was banned. [25] (#cite_note-25) In Trumansburg, New York (/wiki/Trumansburg,_New_York) , in 1966, three sisters were suspended from school for wearing the dress. [26] (#cite_note-:4-26) In response to this suspension, the school's attorney claimed that both safety and possible class disruption were the reasons the dress was banned. [26] (#cite_note-:4-26) The school attorney felt that granny dresses were "extreme" and may encourage students to adopt other extreme forms of dressing. [26] (#cite_note-:4-26) The principal of the school also felt that there was a danger of tripping on stairs because the length of the dresses was too long. [26] (#cite_note-:4-26) Laura M. Lorraine, the dean of Analy Union High School, also believed that the length of the dresses would make it difficult to walk up stairs. [27] (#cite_note-:6-27) In some cases, school authorities just stated that it wasn't "suitable school attire." [27] (#cite_note-:6-27) In 1966, a Dear Abby (/wiki/Dear_Abby) column featured a letter from a girl who was sent to the principal's office for wearing a granny dress. [28] (#cite_note-28) References [ edit ] Citations [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "The Granny Dress" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16855970/hartford_courant/) . Hartford Courant . 1966-03-13. p. 48 . Retrieved 2018-01-25 – via Newspapers.com. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Smith, Dina C. (2015). "Granny dress" (https://books.google.com/books?id=hDkVCwAAQBAJ&q=dresses&pg=RA3-PA135) . In Blanco F., Jose; Doering, Mary D. (eds.). Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe . Santa Barbara, California: ABC-CLIO. p. 135. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781610693103 . ^ Jump up to: a b Livingstone, Evelyn (1965-09-27). "Granny Dresses: Some Are Short" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16856219/chicago_tribune/) . Chicago Tribune . p. 37 . Retrieved 2018-01-25 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Shorty Granny the Next Rage?" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16863011/standardspeaker/) . Standard-Speaker . 1966-04-07. p. 9 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERobbins199754_5-0) Robbins 1997 (#CITEREFRobbins1997) , p. 54. ^ Jump up to: a b Hennessy, Helen (1965-12-03). "Granny Look is New Teenage Fad" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16859759/the_corpus_christi_callertimes/) . The Corpus Christi Caller-Times . p. 25 . Retrieved 2018-01-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Captivating Comeback for Crochet" (https://books.google.com/books?id=o0gEAAAAMBAJ&q=%22granny+dress%22&pg=PA51-IA2) . Life . Vol. 57, no. 18. 30 October 1964. ^ (#cite_ref-8) English, Bonnie (2013). A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries: From Catwalk to Sidewalk . A&C Black. p. 103. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780857851369 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Meet the Granny Dress" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16856531/chicago_tribune/) . Chicago Tribune . 1965-09-27. p. 36 . Retrieved 2018-01-25 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERobbins199746_10-0) Robbins 1997 (#CITEREFRobbins1997) , p. 46. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Riedley, Mary Phyllis (1965-12-12). "But For Teen-Agers Here Granny's Too Far Out" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16861654/the_courierjournal/) . The Courier-Journal . p. 80 . Retrieved 2018-01-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Young Grannies" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16863087/the_sedalia_democrat/) . The Sedalia Democrat . 1965-12-07. p. 7 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-13) " (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16863224/rapid_city_journal/) 'Granny Dress' Dance at YMCA Saturday" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16863224/rapid_city_journal/) . Rapid City Journal . 1966-02-18. p. 2 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Frederick, Virginia (1966). "Salinan Will Be Flying Down to Rio" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16863263/the_salina_journal/) . The Salina Journal . p. 8 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Orfalea, Gregory (2005). "Arab Americans" (https://archive.org/details/multiculturalism00john/page/51) . In Buenker, John D.; Ratner, Lorman (eds.). Multiculturalism in the United States : a comparative guide to acculturation and ethnicity . Westport, Connecticut: Westport, Conn. : Greenwood Press. pp. 51 (https://archive.org/details/multiculturalism00john/page/51) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0313324042 – via Internet Archive. ^ Jump up to: a b Orfalea, Gregory (2009). Angeleno Days: An Arab American Writer on Family, Place, and Politics . University of Arizona Press. p. 14. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780816527731 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Lloyd, Pat (1965-10-02). "Dress Soars Across USA" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16862482/pensacola_news_journal/) . Pensacola News Journal . p. 10 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com. ^ Jump up to: a b McLamb, Kinnon (1965-11-04). "Men, It's Time to Organize" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16862119/the_daily_timesnews/) . The Daily Times-News . p. 19 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com. ^ Jump up to: a b Rice, Basil (1965-10-02). "Just Blame It On Granny" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16862482/pensacola_news_journal/) . Pensacola News Journal . p. 10 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERugh198619_20-0) Rugh 1986 (#CITEREFRugh1986) , p. 19. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERugh198626_21-0) Rugh 1986 (#CITEREFRugh1986) , p. 26. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERugh198629_22-0) Rugh 1986 (#CITEREFRugh1986) , p. 29. ^ Jump up to: a b Givhan, Robin D. (13 May 1993). "Granny Style: Mix These Breezy Dresses With Just About Anything" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16862765/) . St. Louis Post-Dispatch . Retrieved 2018-01-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Umphress, Bob (1965-10-07). "Granny Made the Dress Too Long for School" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16862390/oakland_tribune/) . Oakland Tribune . p. 13 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers. ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Maxi Dress Inspires Mini Fuss" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16863138/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/) . The Santa Fe New Mexican . 1970-09-23. p. 20 . Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Peck, John (1966-03-07). "Granny Dressers Suspended; One Accepted Back in 'Proper' Attire" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16861477/the_ithaca_journal/) . The Ithaca Journal . p. 9 . Retrieved 2018-01-25 – via Newspapers.com. ^ Jump up to: a b "Granny Dress Fad is a Young Set Favorite" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16861756/the_press_democrat/) . The Press Democrat . 1965-11-21. p. 21 . Retrieved 2018-01-25 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-28) Van Buren, Abigail (1966). "Granny Dress Out!" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16861927/the_lawton_constitution/) . The Lawton Constitution . p. 5 . Retrieved 2018-01-25 – via Newspapers.com. Sources [ edit ] Robbins, Trina (1997). Tomorrow's Heirlooms: Fashions of the 60s and 70s . Atglen, Pennsylvania: Schiffer Publishing Ltd. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0764303546 – via Internet Archive. Rugh, Andrea B. (1986). Reveal and Conceal: Dress in Contemporary Egypt . Syracuse, New York: Syracuse University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780815623687 . 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Magazine You can help expand this article with text translated from the corresponding article (https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cabinet_des_Modes) in Swedish . (August 2019) Click [show] for important translation instructions. Machine translation, like DeepL (https://deepl.com) or Google Translate (https://translate.google.com/) , is a useful starting point for translations, but translators must revise errors as necessary and confirm that the translation is accurate, rather than simply copy-pasting machine-translated text into the English Wikipedia. Do not translate text that appears unreliable or low-quality. If possible, verify the text with references provided in the foreign-language article. You must provide copyright attribution (/wiki/Wikipedia:Copying_within_Wikipedia) in the edit summary (/wiki/Help:Edit_summary) accompanying your translation by providing an interlanguage link (/wiki/Help:Interlanguage_links) to the source of your translation. A model attribution edit summary is Content in this edit is translated from the existing Swedish Wikipedia article at [[:sv:Cabinet des Modes]]; see its history for attribution. You may also add the template {{Translated|sv|Cabinet des Modes}} to the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Cabinet_des_Modes) . For more guidance, see Wikipedia:Translation (/wiki/Wikipedia:Translation) . Cabinet des Modes, 1785. Cabinet des Modes , with the title La Magasin des Modes Nouvelles Francaises et Anglaises (or Magasin des modes for short) in 1786–1789, and Le Journal de la Modet et du Gout in 1790–1793, was a French fashion magazine (/wiki/Fashion_magazine) , published between 1785 and 1793. [1] (#cite_note-Kate_Nelson_Best-1) It is recognized to be the first fashion magazine. [2] (#cite_note-2) History [ edit ] The magazine was preceded by the hugely expensive and exclusive Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français (/wiki/Galerie_des_Modes_et_Costumes_Fran%C3%A7ais) , which was published rarely and consisted of a series of decorative fashion plates, expanding on the fashion aspect idea of the almanach pocket books, which was popular during the 18th-century and normally contained one fashion plate each. [1] (#cite_note-Kate_Nelson_Best-1) It was edited by Jean-Antoine Lebrun-Tossa and published by Bosse. It was issued every fifteen days, with eight pages and three plates each. The magazine contained the fashion of furnishings and decoration as well as clothing fashion. The text described the etiquette of fashion and gave its readers advise to when it was fashionable to wear a certain garment, and that certain seasons, occasions and period of the day was suitable for certain types of clothes, which was an innovation of the time and was to become a common feature of fashion magazines until the 1960s. [1] (#cite_note-Kate_Nelson_Best-1) It contained advertising by individual tailors, dressmakers and fashion merchants, who by this time had begun to issue brochures about their work, and it also functioned as a mail order catalog. [1] (#cite_note-Kate_Nelson_Best-1) In contrast to the extremely expensive predecessor, the magazine was affordable with a prize of 21 livres. Cheaper than commercial agents and the pandora fashion dolls (/wiki/Fashion_doll) , and more numerous than the lonely fashion chapter or image of the almanachs, the magazine became a huge success with over 800 subscribers already in its first year of publication. [1] (#cite_note-Kate_Nelson_Best-1) Its affordable price made it into an organ by which the middle classes could acquire what was deemed to be good taste by the aristocracy, a democratization which was pointed out also by the magazine itself. [1] (#cite_note-Kate_Nelson_Best-1) The Cabinet des Modes was an innovation and is considered to be the first proper fashion magazine in Europe and the world. The success in France followed by its export to the rest of Europe. To meet the competition, its example was soon followed abroad by Journal des Luxus und der Moden (/wiki/Journal_des_Luxus_und_der_Moden) (1786-1827) in Germany, and Giornale delle Dame e delle Mode di Francia (/wiki/Giornale_delle_Dame_e_delle_Mode_di_Francia) in Milan (1786-1794), Giornale Dedicato al Bel Sesso (1786-1788) in Venice and Gallery of Fashion (/wiki/Gallery_of_Fashion) in Britain (1794-1803), some of which were in fact plagiarized translations of the French predecessor. [1] (#cite_note-Kate_Nelson_Best-1) The magazine was discontinued in 1793 during the rule of Robespierre (/wiki/Robespierre) , and succeeded after his fall by the Journal des dames et des modes (/wiki/Journal_des_dames_et_des_modes) (1797-1839). Gallery [ edit ] Cabinet des Modes ou les Modes Nouvelles, 15 Septembre 1786. Cabinet des Modes ou les Modes Nouvelles, 15 Juin 1786, pl. I, BI-1959-529-28 Magasin des modes nouvelles françaises (-1...) bpt6k1025111d Cabinet des Modes ou les Modes Nouvelles, 1 Novembre 1786, pl. II, BI-1959-529-55 References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Kate Nelson Best, The History of Fashion Journalism (https://books.google.com/books?id=6L9NDQAAQBAJ&dq=Cabinet+des+modes+first+fashion+magazine&pg=PT30) ^ (#cite_ref-2) Koning, Georgette, and Els Verhaak. New for Now: the Origin of Fashion Magazines. Translated by Lynne Richards. 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English fashion designer Tilly Walnes Born Matilda Rose Walnes [1] (#cite_note-birth-1) January 1980 [2] (#cite_note-2) Poole, Dorset (/wiki/Poole,_Dorset) , England Occupation(s) Designer, author Years active 2010–present Known for pattern design Website www (https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/) .tillyandthebuttons (https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/) .com (https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/) Matilda Rose " Tilly " Walnes (born January 1980) is an English fashion designer, author and educator. Based in South London, she designs plain language sewing patterns (/wiki/Pattern_(sewing)) and hosts online workshops. [3] (#cite_note-Earley-3) Walnes studied at the London College of Fashion (/wiki/London_College_of_Fashion) after taking and enjoying an introduction to sewing class. [3] (#cite_note-Earley-3) Inspired by late 1960s fashion and the French New Wave (/wiki/French_New_Wave) , she began sewing her own clothes in 2010 and launched Tilly and the Buttons as a way to share her makes and connect with other sewers. [4] (#cite_note-TillyAbout-4) [5] (#cite_note-SewingDirectory-5) The success of the blog resulted in a career change so that she could focus full-time on dressmaking, pattern design and sewing related teaching and writing, putting to use more than a decade of experience designing educational resources. [6] (#cite_note-Resident2014-6) She was motivated to create sewing resources that prioritize visual, plain language instructions after finding that the books she relied on while learning how to sew often relied on hard to follow jargon (/wiki/Jargon) . [6] (#cite_note-Resident2014-6) [4] (#cite_note-TillyAbout-4) In 2013, Walnes appeared on the first series of The Great British Sewing Bee (/wiki/The_Great_British_Sewing_Bee_(series_1)) . [7] (#cite_note-Jones-7) She was eliminated during the second week after struggling with a self-drafted trouser pattern. [8] (#cite_note-Graham-8) Walnes identified the garments she made on the show as some of the hardest she's done in a 2014 interview with PatternReview.com explaining: "On the show, you are working to a tight deadline, under hot lights, while being interviewed by camera crews the whole time. It's so easy to forget the basics and mess things up under that kind of pressure!" [9] (#cite_note-W.-9) Walnes' work has been recognized multiple times by Sew Magazine's British Sewing Awards, including Best Sewing Blog and Favourite Sewing Personality. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 2018 she discussed her career, personal style and balancing a business as a new mother on the Canadian podcast Love To Sew (/wiki/Love_To_Sew) . [11] (#cite_note-11) Books [ edit ] Love at first stitch : demystifying dressmaking . Roost Books. 2014. p. 192. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781611802344 . Stretch! : make yourself comfortable sewing with knit fabrics . Quadrille Publishing. 2018. p. 192. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781787131170 . Make it Simple: Easy, Speedy Sewing Projects to Whip up in an Afternoon . 2020. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781787134676 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9781787134676) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-birth_1-0) England & Wales, Civil Registration Birth Index, 1916–2007 ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Matilda Rose WALNES - Personal Appointments" (https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/officers/O_jO4679H3q3YVJGR88upP7N4Dg/appointments) . Companies House . Retrieved 26 April 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Earley, Collette (16 May 2019). "Meet the Maker" (https://www.pressreader.com/uk/mollie-makes/20190516/282033328630410) . Mollie Makes (106) . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b "ABOUT" (https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/about-tilly.html) . Tilly and the Buttons . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-SewingDirectory_5-0) "Interview with Tilly Walnes" (https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/interview-with-tilly-walnes/) . www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b "GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE STAR TILLY WALNES" (https://www.theresident.co.uk/london-culture-events/local-people/great-british-sewing-bee-star-tilly-walnes/) . www.theresident.co.uk . 30 April 2014 . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Jones_7-0) Jones, Katie (15 July 2013). "Tilly Walnes' Sewing Tips: How To Get Started" (https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2013/07/15/tilly-walnes-sewing-tips-how-to-get-started_n_7367062.html?) . HuffPost UK . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Graham_8-0) Graham, Daniella (9 April 2013). "Tilly and Mark depart Great British Sewing Bee" (https://metro.co.uk/2013/04/09/tilly-and-mark-depart-great-british-sewing-bee-3590356/) . Metro . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-W._9-0) W., Alexis (22 October 2014). "Exclusive Interview with Tilly and the Buttons" (https://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=1914134) . PatternReview.com Sewing Community . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "British Sewing Awards - Previous Winners" (https://www.sewmag.co.uk/awards/previous-winners) . www.sewmag.co.uk . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Episode 41: Inspiring Others to Sew with Tilly Walnes" (http://lovetosewpodcast.com/episodes/episode-41-inspiring-others-to-sew-with-tilly-walnes/) . Love To Sew Podcast . 15 May 2018 . Retrieved 1 December 2019 . 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(Redirected from Servite habit (/w/index.php?title=Servite_habit&redirect=no) ) Distinctive set of garments worn by members of a religious order This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Religious_habit) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Religious habit" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Religious+habit%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Religious+habit%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Religious+habit%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Religious+habit%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Religious+habit%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Religious+habit%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) St. Anthony the Great (/wiki/Anthony_the_Great) , wearing the habit of a Coptic (/wiki/Coptic_Orthodox_Church_of_Alexandria) monk. Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A religious habit is a distinctive set of religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) worn by members of a religious order (/wiki/Religious_order) . Traditionally some plain garb recognizable as a religious habit has also been worn by those leading the religious eremitic (/wiki/Hermit) and anchoritic (/wiki/Anchorite) life, although in their case without conformity to a particular uniform style. Uniformity and distinctiveness by order often evolved and changed over time. Interpretation of terms for clothes in religious rules could change over centuries. Furthermore, every time new communities gained importance in a cultural area the need for visual separation increased for new as well as old communities. Thus, modern habits are rooted in historic forms, but do not necessarily resemble them in cut, colour, material, detail or use. In Christian monastic (/wiki/Christian_monasticism) orders of the Catholic (/wiki/Catholic_church) , Lutheran (/wiki/Lutheranism) and Anglican (/wiki/Anglicanism) Churches, the habit often consists of a tunic (/wiki/Tunic) covered by a scapular (/wiki/Scapular) and cowl (/wiki/Cowl) , with a hood for monks (/wiki/Monk) or friars (/wiki/Friar) and a veil (/wiki/Veil) for nuns (/wiki/Nun) ; in apostolic orders it may be a distinctive form of cassock (/wiki/Cassock) for men, or a distinctive habit and veil for women. Catholic Canon Law (/wiki/Canon_Law) requires only that the garb of their members be in some way identifiable so that the person may serve as a witness of the Evangelical counsels (/wiki/Evangelical_counsels) . In many orders, the conclusion of postulancy (/wiki/Postulant) and the beginning of the novitiate (/wiki/Novitiate) is marked by a ceremony, in which the new novice is accepted as a novice and then clothed in the community's habit by the superior (/wiki/General_superior) . In some cases the novice's habit will be somewhat different from the customary habit: for instance, in certain orders of women that use the veil (/wiki/Veil) , it is common for novices to wear a white veil while professed members wear black, or if the order generally wears white, the novice wears a grey veil. Among some Franciscan (/wiki/Franciscan) communities of men, novices wear a sort of overshirt over their tunic; Carthusian (/wiki/Carthusian) novices wear a black cloak over their white habit. Buddhism [ edit ] Monks from Central Asia (/wiki/Central_Asia) and China (/wiki/China) wearing traditional kāṣāya; Bezeklik (/wiki/Bezeklik) , Eastern Tarim Basin (/wiki/Tarim_Basin) , China, 9th–10th century Kāṣāya ( Sanskrit (/wiki/Sanskrit_language) : काषाय , romanized (/wiki/Romanization_of_Sanskrit) : kāṣāya ; Pali (/wiki/Pali) : kasāva; Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 袈裟 ; pinyin (/wiki/Pinyin) : jiāshā ; Cantonese Jyutping (/wiki/Jyutping) : gaa 1 saa 1 ; Japanese (/wiki/Japanese_language) : 袈裟 kesa ; Korean (/wiki/Korean_language) : 袈裟 가사 gasa ; Vietnamese (/wiki/Vietnamese_language) : cà-sa ), "chougu" ( Tibetan (/wiki/Standard_Tibetan) ) are the robes of Buddhist (/wiki/Buddhism) monks (/wiki/Bhikkhu) and nuns (/wiki/Bhikkhuni) , named after a brown or saffron dye. In Sanskrit and Pali, these robes are also given the more general term cīvara , which references the robes without regard to color. Origin and construction [ edit ] An early representation of the Buddha (/wiki/Gautama_Buddha) wearing kāṣāya robes, in the Hellenistic (/wiki/Hellenistic) style Buddhist kāṣāya are said to have originated in India (/wiki/India) as set of robes for the devotees of Gautama Buddha (/wiki/Gautama_Buddha) . A notable variant has a pattern reminiscent of an Asian rice field. Original kāṣāya were constructed of discarded fabric (/wiki/Textile) . These were stitched together to form three rectangular pieces of cloth, which were then fitted over the body in a specific manner. The three main pieces of cloth are the antarvāsa , the uttarāsaṅga , and the saṃghāti . [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKieschnick200390-1) Together they form the "triple robe", or tricīvara . The tricīvara is described more fully in the Theravāda (/wiki/Therav%C4%81da) Vinaya (/wiki/Vinaya) (Vin 1:94 289). Uttarāsaṅga [ edit ] A robe covering the upper body. It is worn over the undergarment, or antarvāsa. In representations of the Buddha, the uttarāsaṅga rarely appears as the uppermost garment, since it is often covered by the outer robe, or saṃghāti. Saṃghāti [ edit ] The saṃghāti is an outer robe used for various occasions. It comes over the upper robe ( uttarāsaṅga ), and the undergarment ( antarvāsa ). In representations of the Buddha, the saṃghāti is usually the most visible garment, with the undergarment or uttarāsaṅga protruding at the bottom. It is quite similar in shape to the Greek himation (/wiki/Himation) , and its shape and folds have been treated in Greek style in the Greco-Buddhist art (/wiki/Greco-Buddhist_art) of Gandhāra (/wiki/Gandh%C4%81ra) . Additions [ edit ] Other items that may have been worn with the triple robe were: a waist cloth, the kushalaka a buckled belt, the samakaksika Indian depiction of the Buddha wearing red robes; Sanskrit manuscript, Nālandā (/wiki/N%C4%81land%C4%81) , Bihar (/wiki/Bihar) , India, Pāla period Kāṣāya in Indian Buddhism [ edit ] In India, variations of the kāṣāya robe distinguished different types of monastics. These represented the different schools that they belonged to, and their robes ranged widely from red and ochre, to blue and black. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKieschnick200389-2) Between 148 and 170 CE, the Parthian (/wiki/Parthia) monk An Shigao (/wiki/An_Shigao) came to China and translated a work which describes the color of monastic robes utilized in five major Indian Buddhist sects, called Dà Bǐqiū Sānqiān Wēiyí (Ch. 大比丘三千威儀). [3] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHino200455-3) Another text translated at a later date, the Śariputraparipṛcchā , contains a very similar passage corroborating this information, but the colors for the Sarvāstivāda and Dharmaguptaka sects are reversed. [4] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHino200455–56-4) [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESujato2012i-5) Nikāya Dà Bǐqiū Sānqiān Wēiyí Śariputraparipṛcchā Sarvāstivāda (/wiki/Sarvastivada) Deep Red Black Dharmaguptaka (/wiki/Dharmaguptaka) Black Deep Red Mahāsāṃghika (/wiki/Mahasamghika) Yellow Yellow Mahīśāsaka (/wiki/Mahisasaka) Blue Blue Kaśyapīya (/wiki/Kasyapiya) Magnolia Magnolia In traditions of Tibetan Buddhism (/wiki/Tibetan_Buddhism) , which follow the Mūlasarvāstivāda Vinaya, red robes are regarded as characteristic of the Mūlasarvāstivādins. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMohrTsedroen2010266-6) According to Dudjom Rinpoche from the tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, the robes of fully ordained Mahāsāṃghika monastics were to be sewn out of more than seven sections, but no more than twenty-three sections. [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERinpoche199916-7) The symbols sewn on the robes were the endless knot (/wiki/Endless_knot) (Skt. śrīvatsa ) and the conch shell (Skt. śaṅkha ), two of the Eight Auspicious Signs (/wiki/Ashtamangala) in Buddhism. [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERinpoche199916-7) Jiāshā in Chinese Buddhism [ edit ] In Chinese Buddhism (/wiki/Chinese_Buddhism) , the kāṣāya is called gāsā (Ch. 袈裟). During the early period of Chinese Buddhism (/wiki/Chinese_Buddhism) , the most common color was red. Later, the color of the robes came to serve as a way to distinguish monastics, just as they did in India. However, the colors of a Chinese Buddhist monastic's robes often corresponded to their geographical region rather than to any specific schools. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKieschnick200389-2) By the maturation of Chinese Buddhism, only the Dharmaguptaka ordination lineage was still in use, and therefore the color of robes served no useful purpose as a designation for sects, the way that it had in India. Kesa in Japanese Buddhism [ edit ] Japanese Buddhist priest's mantle ( kesa ), 1775–1825, LACMA (/wiki/LACMA) textile collections In Japanese Buddhism (/wiki/Japanese_Buddhism) , the kāṣāya is known as the kesa ( 袈裟 ) . In Japan, during the Edo (/wiki/Edo_period) and Meiji periods (/wiki/Meiji_period) , kesa were sometimes pieced together from the theatrical kimono (/wiki/Kimono) used in Noh theatre (/wiki/Noh_theatre) . Christianity [ edit ] Religious clothing includes habits Catholicism [ edit ] Pope John Paul II (/wiki/Pope_John_Paul_II) in his post-apostolic Exhortation Vita consecrata (1996) says concerning the religious habit of consecrated (/wiki/Consecrated_life) persons: §25 [...] The Church must always seek to make her presence visible in everyday life, especially in contemporary culture, which is often very secularized and yet sensitive to the language of signs. In this regard the Church has a right to expect a significant contribution from consecrated persons, called as they are in every situation to bear clear witness that they belong to Christ. Since the habit is a sign of consecration, poverty and membership in a particular Religious family, I join the Fathers of the Synod in strongly recommending to men and women religious that they wear their proper habit, suitably adapted to the conditions of time and place. Where valid reasons of their apostolate call for it, Religious, in conformity with the norms of their Institute, may also dress in a simple and modest manner, with an appropriate symbol, in such a way that their consecration is recognizable. Institutes which from their origin or by provision of their Constitutions do not have a specific habit should ensure that the dress of their members corresponds in dignity and simplicity to the nature of their vocation. Nuns [ edit ] A nun of the Poor Clares of Perpetual Adoration (/wiki/Poor_Clares_of_Perpetual_Adoration) in her cloister Traditional Catholic nuns The religious habits of Catholic nuns typically consist of the following elements: Tunic : This is the central piece of the habit. It is a loose dress made of serge (/wiki/Serge_(fabric)) fabric pleated at the neck and draping to the ground. It can be worn pinned up in the front or in the back to allow the nun to work. Scapular (/wiki/Scapular) : This symbolic apron hangs from both front and back; it is worn over the tunic, and Benedictine (/wiki/Benedictine) nuns also wear it over the belt, whereas some other orders wear it tied under the belt. Cincture : The habit is often secured around the waist with a belt of leather, wool or a lanyard. The cincture of the Franciscan orders has three (or four) knots standing for the vows. Coif (/wiki/Coif) : This is the garment's headpiece and includes the white cotton cap secured by a bandeau (/wiki/Bandeau) and a white wimple (/wiki/Wimple) (to cover the neck and cheeks) and guimpe (/wiki/Guimpe) (to cover the chest, similar to a short cape) of starched linen, cotton, or (today) polyester. It is sometimes covered by a thin layer of black crêpe (/wiki/Cr%C3%AApe_(textile)) . Veil (/wiki/Black_veil) : This element is worn pinned over the coif head coverings. Some veils can be worn down to cover the face or up to expose it. The veil sometimes includes a white underveil as well. The colour of the veil depends as well from the habit of the order and the status of the sister or nun (novices or postulants wear differently coloured veils than the professed sisters and nuns). The coif and veil were common items of clothing for married women in medieval Europe. [ citation needed ] Different orders adhere to different styles of dress; these styles have changed over time. Sisters [ edit ] Sisters of the Daughters of Mary in traditional habit Missionaries of Charity (/wiki/Missionaries_of_Charity) sisters in Haiti, wearing the order's traditional white sari with blue stripes This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( February 2021 ) Historically, the religious habit of Catholic sisters (/wiki/Religious_sister) was a visible sign of a woman's consecration to God. [8] (#cite_note-8) Different orders adhere to different styles of dress; these styles have changed over time. For example, in former times, the Daughters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul (/wiki/Daughters_of_Charity_of_Saint_Vincent_de_Paul) wore a cornette (/wiki/Cornette) instead of a veil. Due the ecclesiastical document Perfectae caritatis (/wiki/Perfectae_caritatis) , many congregations decided to simplify their habits, to conform to the attire of the culture they are working in, or to even discard their use entirely. While styles vary, for those wearing the traditional habit, three pieces are consistently worn: tunic (robe), belt/cincture, veil. The habit of some Dominican Sisters (/wiki/Dominican_Sisters) consists of a tunic, belt (cincture), scapular, veil, rosary, and on formal occasions a cappa (mantle). [9] (#cite_note-9) Even for orders that have chosen not to wear a habit, these sisters often share a common appearance: calf-length skirt, blouse or sweater, visible cross necklace. Monks [ edit ] Carthusian monks of the Chartreuse de Portes Monks in the Catholic church wear a tunic, a cincture (/wiki/Cincture) , a hooded scapular, and, for the Liturgy of the Hours (/wiki/Liturgy_of_the_Hours) , a mantle (novices) or a cowl (professed monks). [ citation needed ] Friars [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( February 2021 ) Canons regular [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( February 2021 ) Owing to the different traditions and origins that exist, there is no singular common habit worn by the Canons Regular (/wiki/Canons_Regular) . Historically the common habit was the distinctive white cassock, with white fascia, over time some communities of Canons have changed to wearing the black cassock with black fascia. The only item of the habit that is common to all Canons is the linen rochet (/wiki/Rochet) a mark of the canonical status. In the Netherlands, some wore a cacullae (a small asymmetrical black cope (/wiki/Cope) of cloth or sheepskin.) Some communities of canons, notably in Austria and Switzerland wear a sarotium, coming from the Latin sacrum rochettum , 'the sacred rochet'. It is a thin band of linen worn over the cassock when not in choir. As part of their choir dress, some communities of Canons wear a mozzetta, either black or purple over the rochet. Outdoors Canons wear a black cloak and hood, but again adaptations have been made to this in some of the communities. Canons also traditionally wore a biretta (/wiki/Biretta) . Clergy [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( March 2017 ) Usually, secular priests (/wiki/Secular_clergy) wear either a black cassock (/wiki/Cassock) or an ordinary men's garb in black or another dark color along with a white clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) . White cassocks or clothes may be worn in hot climates. Also, a ferraiolo (a kind of cope) could be worn along with the cassock. Priests also traditionally wore a biretta (/wiki/Biretta) along with the cassock. Deacons, priests, and bishops belonging to religious institutes (/wiki/Religious_institute) wear the habit of their institute. Abbot or cardinal [ edit ] Main article: Pontifical vestments (/wiki/Pontifical_vestments) Latin Church (/wiki/Latin_Church) clergy other than bishops, in particular any who are abbots (/wiki/Abbot) or apostolic prefects (/wiki/Apostolic_prefect) or ordinary of a personal ordinariate, may wear pontifical items. Mitre, crosier and ring are bestowed on an abbot at his blessing and the pectoral cross is a customary part of an abbatial habit. [ citation needed ] Catholic habits gallery [ edit ] The religious habit of the Carmelite Order (/wiki/Carmelites) is brown and includes the Scapular of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (/wiki/Scapular_of_Our_Lady_of_Mount_Carmel) (also known as Brown Scapular) The religious habit of the Hieronymite enclosed monks and nuns (/wiki/Hieronymites) is white and includes a brown scapular The religious habit of the Sisters of the Good Shepherd (/wiki/Congregation_of_Our_Lady_of_Charity_of_the_Good_Shepherd) (and also of the Sisters from the Order of Our Lady of Charity) is white, with a white scapular, a black veil and a large silver heart on the breast The religious habit of the Sisters of Mary Reparatrix (/wiki/Sisters_of_Mary_Reparatrix) is white, with a blue scapular, a white and blue veil and a large golden heart on the breast The religious habit of the Franciscan (/wiki/Franciscan) Order of Friars Minor (/wiki/Friars_Minor) and Friars Minor Capuchin (/wiki/Order_of_Friars_Minor_Capuchin) is usually brown or gray; the habit of the Order of Friars Minor Conventual (/wiki/Conventual_Franciscans) and Third Order Regular is black, although the Order of Friars Minor Conventual is returning to the grey habit worldwide The religious habit of the Benedictines (/wiki/Benedictines) is black (the style varies depending upon the monastery) The religious habit of the Carthusians (/wiki/Carthusians) is white. A similar habit is used by the Monastic Family of Bethlehem, of the Assumption of the Virgin and of Saint Bruno (/wiki/Monastic_Family_of_Bethlehem,_of_the_Assumption_of_the_Virgin_and_of_Saint_Bruno) The religious habit of the Dominicans (/wiki/Dominican_Order) is black and white Cistercians (/wiki/Cistercians) in their religious habit (with the black scapular (/wiki/Scapular) ) The religious habit of the Clarisses (/wiki/Clarisses) (also known as Poor Clares (/wiki/Poor_Clares) ) is brown, with a black veil The religious habit of the Sisters of the Annunciation (/wiki/Order_of_the_Annunciation_of_the_Blessed_Virgin_Mary) is white, with a red scapular and a black veil The religious habit (based on the Indian sari (/wiki/Sari) ) of the Missionaries of Charity (/wiki/Missionaries_of_Charity) , founded by Mother Teresa of Calcutta (/wiki/Mother_Teresa) The religious habit of the Trinitarian Order (/wiki/Trinitarian_Order) is white with a distinctive cross with a blue horizontal bar and a red vertical bar The religious habit of the Sisters of the Incarnate Word and Blessed Sacrament (/wiki/Order_of_the_Incarnate_Word_and_Blessed_Sacrament) is white, with a red scapular and a black veil Oratorians (/wiki/Oratory_of_Jesus) wear roughly the same vestments as parish priests (/wiki/Priest) . The distinctive Oratorian clerical collar consists of white cloth that folds over the collar all around the neck. Sisters belonging to the Daughters of Charity (/wiki/Daughters_of_Charity_of_Saint_Vincent_de_Paul) with the cornette which used to be common Religious habit of a Trappist (/wiki/Trappists) monk Religious habit of a Premonstratensian (/wiki/Premonstratensian) canon Pauline (/wiki/Order_of_Saint_Paul_the_First_Hermit) Pius Przeździecki The Mercedarians (/wiki/Mercedarian_Order) wear white The religious habit of a Minims (/wiki/Minims_(religious_order)) friar; it consists of a black tunic, a scapular with a capuche and a black cincture with four knots (four vows) Lutheranism [ edit ] In Lutheranism (/wiki/Lutheranism) , various religious orders (/wiki/Religious_order) have a habit of a different colour. The Daughters of Mary (/wiki/Daughters_of_Mary_(Lutheran)) wear a blue habit. [10] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDuBois201790-10) Anglicanism [ edit ] Further information: Anglican religious order (/wiki/Anglican_religious_order) Eastern Orthodoxy [ edit ] The Analavos , worn by Orthodox monks and nuns of the Great Schema The Eastern Orthodox Church (/wiki/Eastern_Orthodox_Church) does not have distinct religious orders such as those in the Catholic Church. The habit ( Greek (/wiki/Greek_language) : Σχήμα , romanized (/wiki/Romanization_of_Greek) : Schēma ) is essentially the same throughout the world. The normal monastic color is black, symbolic of repentance and simplicity. The habits of monks and nuns are identical; additionally, nuns wear a scarf, called an apostolnik (/wiki/Apostolnik) . The habit is bestowed in degrees, as the monk or nun advances in the spiritual life. There are three degrees: (1) the beginner, known as the Rassaphore ('robe bearer') (2) the intermediate, known as the Stavrophore ('cross bearer'), and (3) the Great Schema worn by Great Schema Monks or Nuns. Only the last, the Schemamonk or Schemanun, the monastic of the highest degree, wears the full habit. The habit is formally bestowed upon monks and nuns at the ceremony known as the tonsure (/wiki/Tonsure) (Greek κουρά ). The parts of the Eastern Orthodox habit are: Inner Rason ( Greek (/wiki/Greek_language) : Έσώρασον , Ζωστικὸν or Ἀντερί , Esórason ; Slavonic (/wiki/Church_Slavonic) : Podryásnik ): The inner rason (/wiki/Cassock#Eastern_practice_.28Orthodox_and_Eastern_Catholic.29) (cassock) is the innermost garment. It is a long, collared garment coming to the feet, with narrow, tapered sleeves. Unlike the Roman cassock, it is double-breasted. The inner rason is the basic garment and is worn at all times, even when working. It is often given to novices (/wiki/Novice) and seminarians (/wiki/Seminarian) , though this differs from community to community. The inner rason is also worn by chanters (/wiki/Chanter) , readers (/wiki/Reader_(liturgy)) , and the married clergy. For monks and nuns, it symbolizes the vow (/wiki/Religious_vows) of poverty (/wiki/Poverty#Relative_poverty) . Belt (Greek: Ζώνη , Zone ; Slavonic: Poyas ): The belt worn by Orthodox monks and nuns is normally leather, though sometimes it is of cloth. In the Russian tradition, married clergy, as well as the higher monastic clergy, may wear a cloth belt that is finely embroidered (/wiki/Embroidery) , especially on feast days (/wiki/Great_Feasts) . The belt is symbolic of the vow of chastity (/wiki/Chastity) . Paramand (Greek: Παραμανδύας , Paramandýas ; Slavonic: Paraman ): The Paramand is a piece of cloth, approximately 5 inches (130 mm) square which is attached by ribbons to a wooden cross. The cloth is embroidered with a cross and the Instruments of the Passion (/wiki/Passion_(Christianity)#Instruments_of_the_Passion) . The wooden cross is worn over the chest, then the ribbons pass over and under the arms, like a yoke (/wiki/Yoke) , and hold the square cloth centered on the back. The paramand is symbolic of the yoke of Christ (Matthew 11:29–30). [11] (#cite_note-11) Outer Rason ( a.k.a. , Greek: εξώρασον, exorason or simply ράσο, raso ; Slavonic: ryasa ): Among the Greeks it is worn by readers and all higher clerics; among the Russians it is worn only by monks, deacons, priests, and bishops. Analavos (Greek: Άνάλαβος; Slavonic: Analav ): The distinctive dress of the Great Schema is the analavos, and it is worn only by Schemamonks and Schemanuns. Traditionally made of either leather or wool, the analavos covers the shoulders, and then comes down in the front and back, forming a cross (see illustration, above right). Polystavrion (Greek: Πολυσταύριον, lit. "many crosses"): The polystavrion is a long cord that has been plaited with numerous crosses forming a yoke that is worn over the analavos to hold it in place. Mantle (Greek: Μανδύας, Mandías ; Slavonic: Mantíya ): The Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(vesture)) is a long, full cape, joined at the neck which the monastic wears over the other parts of the habit. St. Tikhon of Moscow (/wiki/Tikhon_of_Moscow) wearing the patriarchal white koukoulion Kalymafki (a.k.a. Kalimavkion (/wiki/Kalimavkion) , Greek: καλυμαύκι; Slavonic: klobuk): The distinctive headdress (/wiki/Headdress) of Eastern Orthodox monks and nuns is the kalymafki, a stiffened hat, something like a fez (/wiki/Fez_(clothing)) , only black and with straight sides, covered with a veil (/wiki/Veil) . The veil has lappets which hang down on each side of the head and a stylized hood falling down the back. For monastics of the Great Schema, the kalymafki takes a very distinctive shape, known as a koukoulion (/wiki/Cowl) (cowl), and is embroidered with the Instruments of the Passion. The koukoulion is also worn by the Patriarchs of several local churches, regardless of whether or not he has been tonsured to that degree. In the Slavic tradition, the koukoulion will be in the form of a cloth hood, similar to that worn on the Western cowl. Outside church, monastics wear a soft hat known as a Skufia (/wiki/Skufia) . Again, for Schemamonks and Schemanuns it is embroidered with the Instruments of the Passion. The portions of the habit worn by the various degrees of monastics is as follows: Rasophore Stavrophore Great Schema Inner Rason Inner Rason Inner Rason Belt Belt Belt Paramand Paramand Outer Rason Outer Rason Outer Rason Analavos Mantle (Russian use only) Mantle Polystavrion Kalymafki Kalymafki Koukoulion Eastern Orthodox habits gallery [ edit ] Inner Rason worn by Polish Orthodox Church (/wiki/Polish_Orthodox_Church) cleric Monk at the Mount Athos, 1850s Hinduism [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( March 2017 ) In Hinduism, religious clothing is a huge element of an individual’s life. [ citation needed ] Most Hindus are known to wear a religious pendant in their daily life to show their faith in God. Hindu women cover their heads with scarf as a sign of respect for not only religion but also their husbands. [ citation needed ] In India, most devoted Hindus are seen wearing a tilak and orange clothing depicting devotion to their religion. [ citation needed ] Most Hindu Pandits (/wiki/Pandit) are either seen in a white or orange (kesari) religious clothing in India. [ citation needed ] Brahmin Hindus are most known for their devotion to the religion among all Hindus. They are seen wearing religious habits at various important moments in their life. [ citation needed ] Islam [ edit ] See also: Islamic clothing (/wiki/Islamic_clothing) Islam does not have religious habits or monastic orders. Muslim ascetics do not have particular uniforms, but rather dress in humble clothing appropriate to their era and region. [ citation needed ] Jainism [ edit ] Female ascetics and Śvetāmbara (/wiki/%C5%9Avet%C4%81mbara) male monks always wear un-stitched or minimally stitched white clothes. Digambara (/wiki/Digambara) Jain monks do not wear clothes. A loin cloth which reaches up to the shins is called a Cholapattak. Another cloth to cover the upper part of the body is called Pangarani (Uttariya Vastra). A cloth that passes over the left shoulder and covers the body up to a little above the ankle is called a Kïmli. Kïmli is a woolen shawl. They also carry a woolen bed sheet and a woolen mat to sit on. Those who wear clothes have a muhapati (/wiki/Muhapati) , which is a square or rectangular piece of cloth of a prescribed measurement, either in their hand or tied on their face covering the mouth. Śvetāmbara ascetics have an Ogho or Rajoharan (a broom of woolen threads) to clean insects around their sitting place or while they are walking. Digambara ascetics have a Morpichhi and a Kamandal in their hands. This practice may vary among different sects of Jains but essential principle remains the same to limit needs. Shinto [ edit ] In Japan, various types of very traditional dress are worn by Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) priests, often dating to styles worn by nobles during the Nara period (/wiki/Nara_period) or Heian period (/wiki/Heian_period) . Hakama (/wiki/Hakama) ( 袴 ) are a type of traditional Japanese clothing (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) , originally worn only by men, but today they are worn by both sexes. There are two types, divided umanori ( 馬乗り , "horse-riding hakama ") and undivided andon bakama ( 行灯袴 , "lantern hakama ") . The umanori type have divided legs, similar to trousers (/wiki/Trousers) , but both types appear similar. Hakama are tied at the waist and fall approximately to the ankles, and are worn over a kimono (/wiki/Kimono) (hakamashita), with the kimono then appearing like a shirt. A Jōe (/wiki/J%C5%8De) ( 浄衣 ) is a garment worn in Japan by people attending religious ceremonies and activities, including Buddhist and Shinto related occasions. Not only Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) and Buddhist priests can be found wearing Jōe at rituals, but laymen as well, for example when participating in pilgrimage such as the Shikoku Pilgrimage (/wiki/Shikoku_Pilgrimage) . The garment is usually white or yellow and is made of linen or silk depending on its kind and use. The Shinto priest who wears the jōe is attired in a peaked cap (/wiki/Cap) called tate-eboshi , an outer tunic called the jōe proper, an outer robe called jōe no sodegukuri no o , an undergarment called hitoe , ballooning trousers called sashinuki or nubakama , and a girdle called jōe no ate-obi . See also [ edit ] Degrees of Eastern Orthodox monasticism (/wiki/Degrees_of_Eastern_Orthodox_monasticism) Religious dress (/wiki/Religious_dress) Tonsure (/wiki/Tonsure) Zucchetto (/wiki/Zucchetto) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKieschnick200390_1-0) Kieschnick 2003 (#CITEREFKieschnick2003) , p. 90. ^ Jump up to: a b Kieschnick 2003 (#CITEREFKieschnick2003) , p. 89. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHino200455_3-0) Hino 2004 (#CITEREFHino2004) , p. 55. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHino200455–56_4-0) Hino 2004 (#CITEREFHino2004) , pp. 55–56. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESujato2012i_5-0) Sujato 2012 (#CITEREFSujato2012) , p. i. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMohrTsedroen2010266_6-0) Mohr & Tsedroen 2010 (#CITEREFMohrTsedroen2010) , p. 266. ^ Jump up to: a b Rinpoche 1999 (#CITEREFRinpoche1999) , p. 16. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Why do nuns (and monks) wear habits?" (https://aleteia.org/2020/07/09/why-do-nuns-and-others-in-religious-life-wear-habits/) . Aleteia — Catholic Spirituality, Lifestyle, World News, and Culture . 2020-07-09 . Retrieved 2024-02-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Our Religious Habit" (https://houstondominicans.org/our-religious-habit) . Dominican Sisters . Retrieved 2021-02-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDuBois201790_10-0) DuBois 2017 (#CITEREFDuBois2017) , p. 90. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Matthew 11:29–30 (https://bible.oremus.org/?passage=Matthew%2011:29–30&version=nrsv) Bibliography [ edit ] DuBois, Thomas A. (12 December 2017). Sacred to the Touch: Nordic and Baltic Religious Wood Carving . University of Washington Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-295-74242-7 . Hino, Shoun (2004). Three Mountains and Seven Rivers . Motilal Banarsidass Publ. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-208-2468-3 . Kieschnick, John (2003). The Impact of Buddhism on Chinese Material Culture . Oxfordshire: Princeton University Press. Rinpoche, Dudjom (1999). Perfect Conduct: Ascertaining the Three Vows . Wisdom Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0861710836 . Sujato, Bhante (/wiki/Bhante_Sujato) (2012). Sects & Sectarianism: The Origins of Buddhist Schools . Santipada. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781921842085 . Mohr, Thea; Tsedroen, Jampa, eds. (2010). Dignity and Discipline: Reviving Full Ordination for Buddhist Nuns . Simon and Schuster. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0861715886 . Further reading [ edit ] Dwyer-McNulty, Sally (2014). Common Threads: A Cultural History of Clothing in American Catholicism . Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4696-1409-0 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Religious habits (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Religious_habits) . New Catholic Dictionary (https://web.archive.org/web/20070107022157/https://www.catholic-forum.com/saints/ncd03798.htm) Images of medieval monks and nuns in the dress of their Orders (http://www.historyfish.net/monastics/monasticorders.html) (Public Domain images and text) Many photographs of nuns and sisters in the dress of their respective orders (http://www.nunsandsisters.com/Photographs.html) Catholic Sisters International Collection, University of Dayton Special Collections (http://digital.udayton.edu/cdm/landingpage/collection/nuns) (photographs of reproductions of over 130 religious habits) v t e Consecrated life (/wiki/Consecrated_life) in the Catholic Church (/wiki/Catholic_Church) Types (/wiki/Institute_of_consecrated_life) Consecrated virgin (/wiki/Consecrated_virgin) Hermit (/wiki/Hermit) Religious institute (/wiki/Religious_institute) Orders (/wiki/Religious_order_(Catholic)) Monastic (/wiki/Christian_monasticism) Cenobitic (/wiki/Cenobitic_monasticism) Chapter 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Type of overcoat Jahangir (/wiki/Jahangir) holding a globe—he is dressed in nadiri. [1] (#cite_note-1) : 76 Nadiri was a type of a overcoat (/wiki/Overcoat) that was specifically reserved for the Mughal (/wiki/Mughal_Empire) emperor Jahangir (/wiki/Jahangir) ( r. 1605–1627 ) and his esteemed courtiers (/wiki/Courtier) . [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) The vest (/wiki/Waistcoat) was an invention of his own, which he had named 'Nadiri'. [4] (#cite_note-4) Nadiri was known as kurdi among the people in Persia (/wiki/Iran) . [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) [5] (#cite_note-5) The term 'nadiri' was meant to refer to rarity. [6] (#cite_note-6) Style [ edit ] The Nadiri is a sleeveless coat that extends down to the thighs and features buttons at the front. [7] (#cite_note-:2-7) It was traditionally worn over the Qaba (/wiki/Qaba) , a long coat with sleeves and buttons. [7] (#cite_note-:2-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) Jahangir's fashion and artistic interests [ edit ] According to historical records, Jahangir had a passion for fashion and his attire, including his turbans and jewelry, and tended to be more extravagant and ornate compared to the fashion sense of his father Akbar (/wiki/Akbar) 's era. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) Jahangir had a strong interest in art and architecture. He documented events, descriptions of flora and fauna, and daily life in his reign in his autobiography, the Jahangirnama . He also commissioned court painters like Ustad Mansur (/wiki/Ustad_Mansur) to create detailed artworks to accompany his writing. [9] (#cite_note-9) Jahangir adorned himself with magnificent clothing crafted from intricate silks (/wiki/Silk) and brocades (/wiki/Brocade) . In addition, he introduced a variety of new dresses, including the nadiri, which he reserved for those whom he chose to grant it to. [10] (#cite_note-10) Jahangir's fashion was closely monitored and emulated by the court. He issued a decree that specified certain textiles and garments to be made exclusively for his use. As a reward for their loyalty and service, the emperor bestowed selected courtiers with gifts of clothing and jewelry, including the nadiri that was designed by himself. [11] (#cite_note-11) As stated in the emperor's memoir, Jahangir had a unique outfit consisting of nadiri, tus shawl, batugiriban, qaba made of Gujarati satin, chera, and waist-belt woven with silk and gold threads, which he kept for himself. [12] (#cite_note-12) Jahangir holding a globe [ edit ] Mughal paintings have elements from Central Asia and Europe as well as Persian and Indian styles and methods. [13] (#cite_note-13) Mughal paintings spanning the 16th to 19th century depict various aspects of life during that period, including legendary tales, warfare, courtly activities, gardens, hunting, and wildlife. [14] (#cite_note-14) Jahangir is depicted here [in the above image] wearing magnificent court attire, including a patterned sleeveless jacket that he dubbed nadiri ('rarity'). He is wearing two patkas (sashes) around his waist: the longer one is intricately embroidered with gold floral designs, while the shorter one is made of Rajasthani tie-dye (/wiki/Tie-dye) fabric. [15] (#cite_note-15) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Crill, Rosemary; Jariwala, Kapil (2010). The Indian Portrait, 1560-1860 . Mapin Publishing Pvt Ltd. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-89995-37-9 . ^ Jump up to: a b Umair Mirza (31 July 2021). Indian History - Collection of Indian History- Collection 7 . p. 223. ^ Jump up to: a b Findly, Ellison Banks (25 March 1993). Nur Jahan: Empress of Mughal India . Oxford University Press. p. 221. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-536060-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Koch, Ebba (2018), "Jahangir as Publius Scipio Maior" (https://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781350987579.ch-003) , Portraiture in South Asia Since the Mughals , I.B. Tauris, doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.5040/9781350987579.ch-003 (https://doi.org/10.5040%2F9781350987579.ch-003) , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-83860-897-2 , retrieved 28 April 2023 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Goswamy, B. N. (1993). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles . D.S. Mehta. p. 119. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Kumar, Ritu (2006). Costumes and Textiles of Royal India . Antique Collectors' Club. p. 40. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-85149-509-2 . ^ Jump up to: a b Sharma, Sunil (27 November 2017). Mughal Arcadia . Harvard University Press. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2307/j.ctvgd336 (https://doi.org/10.2307%2Fj.ctvgd336) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-674-98124-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Chaudhuri, K. N. (1990). Asia Before Europe: Economy and Civilisation of the Indian Ocean from the Rise of Islam to 1750 . CUP Archive. p. 182. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-521-31681-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Beach, Milo Cleveland (24 September 1992). Mughal and Rajput Painting . Cambridge University Press. pp. 89, 90. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-521-40027-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Mohamed Nasr. Nur Jahan Empress of Mughal India . p. 63. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Dey, Gouri. Fashion And Designing Under The Mughals Akbar To Aurangzeb. A Historical Perspective . p. 138. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Mohamed Nasr. Mughal Costumes ( 16th 18th Century) And Royal Costumes . p. 129. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Asher, Catherine B. (31 July 2017). "Mughal Paintings: Art and Stories, The Cleveland Museum of Art. Edited by Sonya Rhie Quintanilla with Dominique DeLuca . London: D. Giles Limited, 2016. 386 pp., 400 color illustrations. ISBN: 9781907804892 (cloth)" (https://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0021911817000717) . The Journal of Asian Studies . 76 (3): 823–825. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1017/s0021911817000717 (https://doi.org/10.1017%2Fs0021911817000717) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0021-9118 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0021-9118) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 164872106 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:164872106) . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Ali, Azmat; Sahni, Janmejay; Sharma, Mohit; Sharma, Prajjwal; Goel, Dr Priya (12 November 2019). IAS Mains Paper 1 Indian Heritage & Culture History & Geography of the world & Society 2020 . Arihant Publications India limited. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-93-241-9210-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) The Indian portrait, 1560-1860 . London: National Portrait Gallery Publications. 2010. p. 76. 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French museum curator and writer (1885–1966) For other people named François Boucher, see François Boucher (disambiguation) (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_(disambiguation)) . François Boucher Born ( 1885-11-26 ) 26 November 1885 Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France Died 23 November 1966 (1966-11-23) (aged 80) Neuilly-sur-Seine (/wiki/Neuilly-sur-Seine) , France Nationality French François Leon Louis Boucher (26 November 1885 – 23 November 1966) was a French museum curator and writer. Biography [ edit ] Boucher was born in Paris (/wiki/Paris) on 26 November 1885. He became curator at the Musée Carnavalet (/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_Carnavalet) , Paris. He founded the Union française des arts du costume (UFAC) that later merged with the costume museum Musée de la mode et du textile (/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_de_la_mode_et_du_textile) of the Louvre under the guidance of his assistant Yvonne Deslandres (/wiki/Yvonne_Deslandres) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Boucher died in Neuilly-sur-Seine (/wiki/Neuilly-sur-Seine) on 23 November 1966, at the age of 80. Works [ edit ] Tableau de la France par les écrivains illustres , 1948 Histoire du Costume en Occident de l’antiquité à nos jours , 1963-5 20,000 Years of Fashion (/wiki/20,000_Years_of_Fashion) : The History of Costume and Personal Adornment , (with Yvonne Deslandres), 1966 References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Library of Congress (http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n87828754) entry for Boucher, François, 1885–1966 Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/1752883/) ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000114700129) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/29501972) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJd3QDywyY9D69MkgdxJjC) National Norway (https://authority.bibsys.no/authority/rest/authorities/html/90062972) France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb122089513) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb122089513) Catalonia (https://cantic.bnc.cat/registre/981058599501206706) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/133116476) Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007405549005171) Belgium (https://opac.kbr.be/LIBRARY/doc/AUTHORITY/14528958) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n87828754) Sweden (https://libris.kb.se/0xbdd46j4q3nszz) Latvia (https://kopkatalogs.lv/F?func=direct&local_base=lnc10&doc_number=000048047&P_CON_LNG=ENG) Japan (https://id.ndl.go.jp/auth/ndlna/00433965) Czech Republic (https://aleph.nkp.cz/F/?func=find-c&local_base=aut&ccl_term=ica=jn19990000965&CON_LNG=ENG) Australia (https://nla.gov.au/anbd.aut-an35959953) Croatia (http://katalog.nsk.hr/F/?func=direct&doc_number=000007692&local_base=nsk10) Netherlands (http://data.bibliotheken.nl/id/thes/p073040509) Poland (https://dbn.bn.org.pl/descriptor-details/9810649708605606) Vatican (https://wikidata-externalid-url.toolforge.org/?p=8034&url_prefix=https://opac.vatlib.it/auth/detail/&id=495/12861) Academics CiNii (https://ci.nii.ac.jp/author/DA03369197?l=en) Artists RKD Artists (https://rkd.nl/en/explore/artists/435164) People Deutsche Biographie (https://www.deutsche-biographie.de/pnd133116476.html?language=en) Trove (https://trove.nla.gov.au/people/1163748) Other IdRef (https://www.idref.fr/030732476) This article about a French writer of non-fiction is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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American fashion designer Gogo Graham is a transgender (/wiki/Transgender) woman who designs clothing specifically catered to trans women. [1] (#cite_note-1) Originally from Texas (/wiki/Texas) , she now is based in Brooklyn, NY (/wiki/Brooklyn) , and has garnered national attention by working alongside prominent industry moguls such as Women’s History Museum (/wiki/National_Women%27s_History_Museum) and RuPaul (/wiki/RuPaul) . [2] (#cite_note-2) She has since branched out to create her own collections and has had two collections shown at New York Fashion Week (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) . Graham's work ethos has attracted a following of trans women who have formed a community of support for one another. She explains of her brand, "the evolution of my identity as a trans woman is reflected in the evolution of the collection; sometimes rigid, sometimes fluid, sometimes stagnant, sometimes dynamic." [3] (#cite_note-3) In addition to creating apparel accommodating the specific needs of trans women, Graham is also a committed advocate for the socio-political issues transgender women face in society today. [4] (#cite_note-4) Personal life [ edit ] Born in 1991, Gogo Graham was raised in Pearland, Texas (/wiki/Pearland,_Texas) , and went on to study pre-med at the University of Texas at Austin (/wiki/University_of_Texas_at_Austin) . One credit short of graduation, she transferred to a degree in textiles and apparel (/wiki/Textile_design) , which sparked the beginning of her career in design. [5] (#cite_note-5) Upon graduation, Graham moved to New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) to center herself within the hub of the fashion world. Her move into fashion was motivated by the lack of inclusivity she experienced herself as a trans woman when trying to find clothing that suited her body shape. She explains how trans women "don't have options in fashion," because of the clothing that is made either for traditionally male or female bodies. [6] (#cite_note-6) Career [ edit ] Upon arriving in New York, Graham began working for costume designer Zaldy (/wiki/Zaldy) , whom she collaborated with on designs for a J-Pop (/wiki/J-pop) band, and famous drag queen RuPaul (/wiki/RuPaul) . She then left to work at a factory in Midtown (/wiki/Midtown_Manhattan) which gave her more creative freedom in constructing avant-garde (/wiki/Avant-garde) clothing, as opposed to ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) style. [7] (#cite_note-7) At the same time, she "started making designs for photography projects with her friend and collaborator Serena Jara." [8] (#cite_note-8) Stephanie Eckardt states "though she started out making more traditional womenswear, Graham refocused when she came out as trans herself." [9] (#cite_note-9) Once she had enough industry experience, Graham decided to start designing her own collections that addressed the different body types and stylistic needs of trans women. Her self-made fashion brand recycles materials and repurposes found items to construct a collective line. Graham's production process heavily involves the women for whom the clothing is being made; she consults with them on which features they want accentuated and then works to deliver a piece that best fits these criteria. [10] (#cite_note-10) She explains "some people care more than others about how they need to be presented in shows and I take that into account when putting everything together." [11] (#cite_note-11) Graham illuminates the importance of self-representation by marginalized (/wiki/Marginalized) groups in the media, explaining how “being portrayed by cis (/wiki/Cisgender) people is inherently exploitative (/wiki/Exploitation_of_women_in_mass_media) no matter which way you spin it." [12] (#cite_note-12) In addition to fashion design, Graham is also a sculptor (/wiki/Sculpture) , painter (/wiki/Painting) , and DJ (/wiki/Disc_jockey) , which she incorporates into her shows by providing the soundtracks and assisting with hair and makeup backstage. [13] (#cite_note-13) Graham has now presented two collections at NYFW (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) , and has completed five full-length collections. [14] (#cite_note-14) She has since evolved the purpose of her work; she now advocates for financial support from the fashion industry to empower the trans women involved and to ensure the longevity of the movement. Graham says, "having fashion shows gives me an opportunity to pay models," which she believes provides personal agency within the industry. [15] (#cite_note-15) Mars Hobrecker and Leah James explain how transgender models "have become a hot topic in recent years thanks to Bruce Weber (/wiki/Bruce_Weber_(photographer)) 's all-trans campaign for Barneys (/wiki/Barneys_New_York) and diverse runways at Eckhaus Latta (/wiki/Eckhaus_Latta) , Chromat (/wiki/Chromat) , and Hood by Air (/wiki/Hood_By_Air) ." [16] (#cite_note-16) Graham believes financial compensation for the trans models involved in campaigns such as these will hinder mainstream fashion lines from exploiting the community in order to gain recognition and popularity. [17] (#cite_note-17) Still continuing to produce only one-of-a-kind pieces, Graham has not enabled factory production or begun work on ready-made (/wiki/Ready-made_garment) lines. Production and inspiration [ edit ] Graham designs individualized clothing specifically formed to a particular model’s body and persona. As she describes, “I cast before I create the looks, so I’ll be thinking about all the girls individually and send them photos of inspiration or looks in progress." [18] (#cite_note-18) Her work tends to be informal and grotesque in nature which provides a sharp contrast to the aesthetics (/wiki/Aesthetics) of mainstream fashion. Jillian Billard notes of Graham's designs "there is this running theme that seems to be led by a fascination with deconstruction, printed patterns and texture." [19] (#cite_note-19) Stylistically, she has been inspired by games such as Final Fantasy (/wiki/Final_Fantasy_(video_game)) and Devil May Cry (/wiki/Devil_May_Cry) , which she references through their dramatic visuals and hyper-saturated hues. [20] (#cite_note-20) Additionally, she addresses the multilayered oppression that is persistent in today’s society for trans women, particularly trans women of color. With this being the recurring message of her designs, Graham attempts to reduce the dysphoria (/wiki/Dysphoria) often felt by many trans women who struggle with self-image and identification. [21] (#cite_note-21) The SS16 show which she presented at Ace Hotel (/wiki/Ace_Hotel_Los_Angeles) New York "was in itself a love letter to trans sisterhood," with Graham bringing together a multitude of trans women to work in coherence on the show. [22] (#cite_note-22) The visuals emulated as 'un-done' look which was done with "arms, fingers and ensembles, still wet from being painted crimson by Glossy, Kaidon Ho and Kelley McNutt only minutes before." [23] (#cite_note-23) Her AW16 show featured a confronting nature and nuanced style that referenced the “ Final Girl (/wiki/Final_girl) ” horror film trope, which describes the final character alive at the end of the film who is able to speak to the horrors experienced by the group. Held at Artists Space (/wiki/Artists_Space) in Tribeca (/wiki/Tribeca) , the models walked the runway in torn, blood-drenched clothing which called attention to the high fatality rate and recurring violence experienced by the trans community. [24] (#cite_note-24) The nature of the show was made deliberately claustrophobic and uncomfortable to represent the vulnerability trans women feel when navigating through a potentially threatening society. In Graham's NYFW Spring 2017 show "the looks were feminine and sensual, with contrasting details such as the use of black, wire detailing, and the chokers many models wore with delicate lace pieces." [25] (#cite_note-25) Another of Graham’s exhibitions (/wiki/Exhibition) , her 2017 Dragon Lady , highlighted her dissatisfaction with stereotypes (/wiki/Stereotype) that assist in the exotification of Asian women. The show addressed the derogatory "dragon lady" (/wiki/Dragon_Lady) stereotype which poses Asian women as “strong and deceitful”. [26] (#cite_note-26) Graham attempted to tackle stereotypes both literally and figuratively by deconstructing traditional menswear and repurposing it in order to reflect the message of her show. [27] (#cite_note-27) She addressed " archetypes (/wiki/Archetype) that exist within Japanese folklore (/wiki/Japanese_folklore) , as well as Kabuki (/wiki/Kabuki) and Noh (/wiki/Noh) performance that appear to be focal points for...westerners." [28] (#cite_note-28) As with most of her shows, Graham constructed this one in a DIY (/wiki/Do_it_yourself) sense. She found materials in unconventional places such as thrift shops and hardware stores, and pulled together scraps of material- most notably tuna fish cans- in an attempt to distort and reconfigure the concept of a runway show. [29] (#cite_note-29) Devan Diaz, a woman who has modeled in Graham's shows, notes how "there is no linear way to understand Gogo's aesthetic (/wiki/Aesthetics) , and there are no trends you can trace in her shows." [30] (#cite_note-30) Regarding runway models, Graham sources her friends and models she find on Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) who also identify as trans women, and encourages everyone to work as a collective on aspects of the show. She explains of this approach, "I only use trans models because trans aesthetic can only be expressed authentically by trans people." [31] (#cite_note-31) This a recurring theme in most of Graham’s work; community is valued highly and Graham seeks to empower trans women by giving them a platform for creativity and self-expression. [32] (#cite_note-32) In pursuit of this project, Graham has included the likes of other models and artists including Serena Jara (http://www.serenajara.com/) , Sofia Moreno (http://www.sofiamoreno.com/about.html) , Hari Nef (/wiki/Hari_Nef) , and Quay Dash, who are all advocates for transgender rights (/wiki/Transgender_rights) as well. [33] (#cite_note-33) Graham's designs and production process involve the designer, model and consumer in a relationship that seeks to mutually empower. She explains, "my designs are developed with the trans femmes I dress in mind, so their individual presences permeate the designs and become inextricably linked to the garments and the look." [34] (#cite_note-34) Graham's most recent collection is her AW18 show titled "Vicky's Secret" and features an exploration of polka-dot patterns. [35] (#cite_note-35) Industry Perception [ edit ] Models working within the industry have voiced appreciation for Graham's inclusive vision and individualized approach to fashion. Model Devan Diaz says that, "when the show was over, I felt as though I gained new tools of protection that I could take into the world." [36] (#cite_note-36) Graham’s AW16 show “moved more than a handful of audience members to tears-including Hari Nef (/wiki/Hari_Nef) , who noted the power of seeing something by and for trans women.” [37] (#cite_note-37) Critics have praised Graham’s for her catering to individual identity and atypical approach to fashion that focuses on the model’s needs. Jillian Billard states “the garments appear to fuse naturally with each model’s personality and beauty.” [38] (#cite_note-38) Christina Di Biase notes of Graham’s designs that they reflect her awareness of “the power of attention, which can ignite conversation and visibility.” [39] (#cite_note-39) Political views [ edit ] As a trans woman herself, Graham’s own experiences within the marginalized (/wiki/Marginalized) community heavily influence her political views and have inspired her to lobby for change. [40] (#cite_note-40) Graham is an advocate against the ongoing transphobia (/wiki/Transphobia) that sometimes results in acts of aggression and violence, particularly for trans people of color. She experiences this herself as she explains, "I officially identify as mixed race...I do have Japanese ancestry." [41] (#cite_note-41) She recognizes that “for trans women of color, they have to deal with gender identity (/wiki/Gender_identity) and the intersectionality (/wiki/Intersectionality) of white supremacy (/wiki/White_supremacy) ." [42] (#cite_note-42) Graham rejects trans fashion as a trendy buzzword (/wiki/Buzzword) that sees the movement as one that will serve its purpose and fade into the background. She instead rallies for its right to a legitimate place in the future of fashion. Addressing cultural issues such as feminine objectification (/wiki/Objectification_of_women) , orientalism (/wiki/Orientalism) , and exoticism (/wiki/Exoticism) , her designs confront the heteronormative (/wiki/Heteronormativity) discourse (/wiki/Discourse) that she believes is persistent in the fashion industry. [43] (#cite_note-43) She explains, “I can only hope that my own identity and skills can be used as tools to help relay the urgency of that message.” [44] (#cite_note-44) Graham’s thoughts on identity politics shape a majority of her work, namely her stylistic choices and messages behind shows like Dragon Lady . References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Eckardt, Stephanie (2016). "Gogo Graham: A Bespoke Designer for Trans Women" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/gogo-graham-fall-2016-new-york-fashion-week-trans-designer) . W Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Eckardt, Stephanie (2016). "Gogo Graham: A Bespoke Designer for Trans Women" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/gogo-graham-fall-2016-new-york-fashion-week-trans-designer) . W Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Nichols, James Michael (2015). "Fabrications: Meet Trans Fashion Designer Gogo Graham" (https://www.huffingtonpost.com.au/entry/fabrications-meet-trans-fashion-designer-gogo-graham_us_560d7713e4b0768127011a26.) . Huffington Post . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-4) Craggs, Charlie (2018). To My Trans Sisters . Philadelphia: Jessica Kingsley Publishers. p. 123. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Eckardt, Stephanie (2016). "Gogo Graham: A Bespoke Designer for Trans Women" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/gogo-graham-fall-2016-new-york-fashion-week-trans-designer) . W Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Hobrecker, Mars and, James, Leah. (2015). "Is Gogo Graham the First True Trans Fashion Line?" (https://i-d.vice.com/en_au/article/59bwy5/is-gogo-graham-the-first-true-trans-fashion-line) . i-D Vice Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Hobrecker, Mars, and James, Leah (2015). "Is Gogo Graham the First True Trans Fashion Line?" (https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/59bwy5/is-gogo-graham-the-first-true-trans-fashion-line) . i-D Vice Magazine . {{ cite news (/wiki/Template:Cite_news) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-8) Tsui, Diana and, Spellings, Sarah (2018). "The Designer Creating Clothes by and for People of Trans Experience" (https://www.thecut.com/2018/07/they-seem-cool-gogo-graham.html) . The Cut . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . {{ cite news (/wiki/Template:Cite_news) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-9) Eckardt, Stephanie. "Gogo Graham: A Bespoke Designer for Trans Women" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/gogo-graham-fall-2016-new-york-fashion-week-trans-designer) . W Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Eckardt, Stephanie (2016). "Gogo Graham: A Bespoke Designer for Trans Women" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/gogo-graham-fall-2016-new-york-fashion-week-trans-designer) . W Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Billard, Jillian (2018). "Gogo Graham's Designs Give Found Materials A Renewed Elegance" (https://www.ravelinmagazine.com/posts/gogo-grahams-designs-give-found-materials-renewed-elegance/) . Ravelin Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Hobrecker, Mars, and James, Leah (2015). "Is Gogo Graham The First True Trans Fashion Line?" (https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/59bwy5/is-gogo-graham-the-first-true-trans-fashion-line) . i-D Vice Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . {{ cite news (/wiki/Template:Cite_news) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-13) Nwadiogbu, Ngozi (2018). "Designer Gogo Graham Uses Makeup to Distort and Art to Empower" (https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/gogo-graham) . Interview Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Tsui, Diana and, Spellings, Sarah (2018). "The Designer Creating Clothes by and for People of Trans Experience" (https://www.thecut.com/2018/07/they-seem-cool-gogo-graham.html) . The Cut . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . {{ cite news (/wiki/Template:Cite_news) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-15) Nwadiogbu, Ngozi (2018). "Designer Gogo Graham uses makeup to distort and art to empower" (https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/gogo-graham) . Interview Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Hobrecker, Mars and, James, Leah (2015). "is gogo graham the first true trans fashion line?" (https://i-d.vice.com/en_au/article/59bwy5/is-gogo-graham-the-first-true-trans-fashion-line) . i-D Vice Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . {{ cite news (/wiki/Template:Cite_news) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-17) Nwadiogbu, Ngozi (2018). "Designer Gogo Graham Uses Makeup to Distort and Art to Empower" (https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/gogo-graham) . Interview Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Moran, Justin (2016). "Gogo Graham Calls Attention to Trans Violence With Final-Girl Inspired Collection" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181109153209/http://bullettmedia.com/article/gogo-graham-calls-attention-to-trans-violence-with-final-girl-inspired-collection/) . Bullett Magazine . Archived from the original (http://bullettmedia.com/article/gogo-graham-calls-attention-to-trans-violence-with-final-girl-inspired-collection/) on 2018-11-09 . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Billard, Jillian (2018). "Gogo Graham's Designs Give Found Materials A Renewed Elegance" (https://www.ravelinmagazine.com/posts/gogo-grahams-designs-give-found-materials-renewed-elegance/) . Ravelin Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Nwadiogbu, Ngozi (2018). "Designer Gogo Graham Uses Makeup to Distort and Art to Empower" (https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/gogo-graham) . Interview Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Moran, Justin (2016). "Gogo Graham Calls Attention to Trans Violence with Final Girl-Inspired Collection" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181109153209/http://bullettmedia.com/article/gogo-graham-calls-attention-to-trans-violence-with-final-girl-inspired-collection/) . Bullett Magazine . Archived from the original (http://bullettmedia.com/article/gogo-graham-calls-attention-to-trans-violence-with-final-girl-inspired-collection/) on 2018-11-09 . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Nirui, Ava and, So, Veronica (2016). "How New York's New Wave disrupted the fashion system" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29847/1/new-york-designers-fashion) . Dazed Digital . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . {{ cite news (/wiki/Template:Cite_news) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-23) So, Veronica (2015). "This groundbreaking fashion show used all trans models" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/26507/1/gogo-graham-stages-her-trans-girls-only-fashion-show) . Dazed Digital . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Hall, Jake (2016). "Gogo Graham is Addressing Trans Violence via Fashion" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29933/1/gogo-graham-is-addressing-trans-violence-via-fashion) . Dazed and Confused Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Hall, Jake (2016). "NYFW S/S'17: Gogo Graham showcases sensuality and femininity" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181109234621/https://www.thefourohfive.com/style/article/nyfw-s-s-17-gogo-graham-147) . The 405 . Archived from the original (https://www.thefourohfive.com/style/article/nyfw-s-s-17-gogo-graham-147) on 2018-11-09 . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Thomas, Chris (2017). "Gogo Graham Confronts, Crushes Stereotypes in Lower East Side 'Dragon Lady' Exhibition" (https://www.out.com/out-exclusives/2017/6/30/gogo-graham-confronts-crushes-stereotypes-lower-east-side-dragon-lady-exhibition) . OUT Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Moran, Justin (2016). "Gogo Graham Calls Attention to Trans Violence with Final Girl-Inspired Collection" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181109153209/http://bullettmedia.com/article/gogo-graham-calls-attention-to-trans-violence-with-final-girl-inspired-collection/) . Bullett Magazine . Archived from the original (http://bullettmedia.com/article/gogo-graham-calls-attention-to-trans-violence-with-final-girl-inspired-collection/) on 2018-11-09 . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Thomas, Chris (2017). "Gogo Graham Confronts, Crushes Stereotypes in Lower East Side 'Dragon Lady' Exhibition" (https://www.out.com/out-exclusives/2017/6/30/gogo-graham-confronts-crushes-stereotypes-lower-east-side-dragon-lady-exhibition) . OUT Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Thomas, Chris (2017). "Gogo Graham Confronts, Crushes Stereotypes in Lower East Side 'Dragon Lady' Exhibition" (https://www.out.com/out-exclusives/2017/6/30/gogo-graham-confronts-crushes-stereotypes-lower-east-side-dragon-lady-exhibition) . OUT Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Diaz, Devan (2016). "What It's Like To Model In An All-Trans Women Fashion Show" (https://nylon.com/articles/gogo-graham-transgender-fashion-show) . NYLON . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Nichols, James Michael (2015-10-02). "FABRICATIONS: Meet Trans Fashion Designer Gogo Graham" (https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/fabrications-meet-trans-fashion-designer-gogo-graham_us_560d7713e4b0768127011a26) . Huffington Post . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Thomas, Chris (2017). "Gogo Graham Confronts, Crushes Stereotypes in Lower East Side 'Dragon Lady' Exhibition" (https://www.out.com/out-exclusives/2017/6/30/gogo-graham-confronts-crushes-stereotypes-lower-east-side-dragon-lady-exhibition) . OUT Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Nirui, Ava and, So, Veronica (2016). "How New York's new wave disrupted the fashion system" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29847/1/new-york-designers-fashion) . Dazed Digital . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . {{ cite news (/wiki/Template:Cite_news) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-34) Nichols, James Michael (2015-10-02). "FABRICATIONS: Meet Trans Fashion Designer Gogo Graham" (https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/fabrications-meet-trans-fashion-designer-gogo-graham_us_560d7713e4b0768127011a26) . Huffington Post . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Lipson, Emily (2018). "Gogo Graham AW18" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/24926/17/gogo-graham-aw18) . Dazed Digital . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Diaz, Devan (2016-10-03). "What It's Like To Model In An All-Trans Women Fashion Show" (https://nylon.com/articles/gogo-graham-transgender-fashion-show) . NYLON . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) Eckardt, Stephanie. "Gogo Graham: A Bespoke Designer for Trans Women" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/gogo-graham-fall-2016-new-york-fashion-week-trans-designer) . W Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Billard, Jillian (2018-08-01). "Gogo Graham's Designs Give Found Materials A Renewed Elegance" (https://www.ravelinmagazine.com/posts/gogo-grahams-designs-give-found-materials-renewed-elegance/) . Ravelin Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Biase, Christina Di (2017). "For Trans Women by Trans Women: Gogo Graham" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181109234630/http://textileartscenter.com/blog/for-trans-women-by-trans-women-gogo-graham/) . Textile Arts Center . Archived from the original (http://textileartscenter.com/blog/for-trans-women-by-trans-women-gogo-graham/) on 2018-11-09 . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Nichols, James Michael (2015-10-02). "FABRICATIONS: Meet Trans Fashion Designer Gogo Graham" (https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/fabrications-meet-trans-fashion-designer-gogo-graham_us_560d7713e4b0768127011a26) . Huffington Post . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) Mack, Jordan (2015). "Exclusive: Gogo Graham Is The Trans Designer for Trans Girls" (https://milk.xyz/articles/4214-Exclusive-Gogo-Graham-Is-The-Trans-Designer-for-Trans-Girls/) . Milk Magazine . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) Moran, Justin (2016). "Gogo Graham Calls Attention to Trans Violence with Final Girl-Inspired Collection" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181109153209/http://bullettmedia.com/article/gogo-graham-calls-attention-to-trans-violence-with-final-girl-inspired-collection/) . Bullett Magazine . Archived from the original (http://bullettmedia.com/article/gogo-graham-calls-attention-to-trans-violence-with-final-girl-inspired-collection/) on 2018-11-09 . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Nwadiogbu, Ngozi (2018). "Designer Gogo Graham Uses Makeup to Distort and Art to Empower" (https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/gogo-graham) . Interview Magazine . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Nichols, James Michael (2015-10-02). "FABRICATIONS: Meet Trans Fashion Designer Gogo Graham" (https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/fabrications-meet-trans-fashion-designer-gogo-graham_us_560d7713e4b0768127011a26) . Huffington Post . Retrieved 2018-11-09 . 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American photographer Michael Avedon Born ( 1991-01-16 ) January 16, 1991 (age 33) New York City, New York (/wiki/New_York_(state)) , US Education International Center of Photography (/wiki/International_Center_of_Photography) Occupation Photographer Relatives Richard Avedon (/wiki/Richard_Avedon) (paternal grandfather) Daniel Patrick Moynihan (/wiki/Daniel_Patrick_Moynihan) (maternal grandfather) Website michaelavedon (http://michaelavedon.com) .com (http://michaelavedon.com) Michael Patrick Avedon (born January 16, 1991) is an American photographer living in New York City. Avedon works commercially as a fashion photographer (/wiki/Fashion_photography) and makes portraits (/wiki/Portrait_photography) for his personal work – including an ongoing series of artists in their studios. [1] (#cite_note-nytimes-1) Avedon began experimenting with photography in 2006, and in 2012 was named in Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) ' s "30 Under 30" list of up-and-coming artists. [2] (#cite_note-2) In the spring of 2013 he graduated from the International Center of Photography (/wiki/International_Center_of_Photography) . He has worked for Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) , [3] (#cite_note-3) Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein_(fashion_house)) , [ citation needed ] Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) , [4] (#cite_note-4) CR Fashion Book (/wiki/Carine_Roitfeld) , and Dazed (/wiki/Dazed) . He is the grandson of Richard Avedon (/wiki/Richard_Avedon) on his father's side, and Senator Daniel Patrick Moynihan (/wiki/Daniel_Patrick_Moynihan) on his mother's side. Early life [ edit ] Michael Patrick Avedon was born in New York City to Maura Moynihan and John Avedon. From a young age, he was influenced by and participated in counter-culture movements such as skateboarding (/wiki/Skateboard) , surfing (/wiki/Surfing) , and punk rock music (/wiki/Punk_rock) . He attended York Preparatory School (/wiki/York_Preparatory_School) on the Upper West Side from 7th through 12th grade. After graduating high school, Avedon spent two years studying at the School of Visual Arts (/wiki/School_of_Visual_Arts) in downtown Manhattan. Subsequently, he transferred to the International Center of Photography (/wiki/International_Center_of_Photography) , [1] (#cite_note-nytimes-1) where he studied for an additional two years, graduating in the spring of 2013. Work [ edit ] Avedon has shot advertisements for Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein , and fashion editorials for Harper's Bazaar , CR Fashion Book , Dazed & Confused , VMAN (/wiki/VMAN) , Interview Russia (/wiki/Interview_(magazine)) , Out of Order , and HERO (/w/index.php?title=Hero_(fashion_magazine)&action=edit&redlink=1) . In March 2012, Avedon had his first fashion spread in V Man , a fashion magazine edited by Stephen Gan. [5] (#cite_note-5) His first notable commercial assignment was a series of behind the scenes photographs at the 2012 haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) , commissioned by Carine Roitfeld (/wiki/Carine_Roitfeld) 's CR Fashion Book . [6] (#cite_note-6) Avedon was subsequently asked to shoot for the magazine's debut issue (September 2012), as well as several following issues. He maintains an ongoing working relationship with Roitfeld, and returned to Paris Fashion Week in 2013 to shoot for her magazine. [7] (#cite_note-7) Throughout 2012 and 2013 Avedon has worked closely with Jefferson Hack (/wiki/Jefferson_Hack) (founder of Dazed & Confused , Another Magazine (/wiki/Another_Magazine) and NOWNESS (/wiki/NOWNESS) ), and has shot several notable celebrities for Dazed & Confused , including Greta Gerwig (/wiki/Greta_Gerwig) , Nicolas Jaar (/wiki/Nicolas_Jaar) , and Damien Echols (/wiki/West_Memphis_Three) , as well as a Brooke Shields (/wiki/Brooke_Shields) cover story for Under the Influence , [8] (#cite_note-8) and Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) for Interview Russia . In July 2014 Avedon shot Lottie Moss (the younger half-sister of Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) ) for Calvin Klein . The shoot took place in London and featured a '90s-inspired Calvin Klein Jeans capsule collection. In ways the shoot pays homage to the iconic 1980's advertisement shot and directed by Richard Avedon for Calvin Klein, featuring model Brooke Shields. [ citation needed ] In August 2014 Avedon shot Emma Ferrer (/wiki/Emma_Ferrer) (the granddaughter of Audrey Hepburn (/wiki/Audrey_Hepburn) ) for Harper's Bazaar . The shoot took place in Florence, where Ferrer has lived for the past six years. The concept, envisioned by Bazaar's editor-in-chief Glenda Bailey (/wiki/Glenda_Bailey) , was to create a tribute to the many popular photographs that Richard Avedon shot of Hepburn throughout the late 1950s and early 1960s. Both the clothing and poses were largely inspired by these past works. Joanna Hillman was the fashion editor on the shoot. [9] (#cite_note-9) The October 29 – November 11, 2018 issue of New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) magazine included a portfolio of Avedon's portraits of 25 survivors of school shootings, from a 1946 shooting at the Brooklyn High School For Automotive Trades to the Stoneman Douglas High School shooting (/wiki/Stoneman_Douglas_High_School_shooting) . [10] (#cite_note-10) Personal work [ edit ] Portrait of Francesco Clemente (/wiki/Francesco_Clemente) in his studio (2011). Avedon's personal work has predominantly taken the form of portrait photography. Influenced by the extensive legacy of his grandfather's work (/wiki/Richard_Avedon#Photography_career) , he has shot primarily in black & white, using 35mm and medium format film. His ongoing portrait project of artists have been intimate, close-up sittings, typically conducted in the artist's studio. Artists he has photographed for the project thus far include: Chuck Close (/wiki/Chuck_Close) , Richard Serra (/wiki/Richard_Serra) , Francesco Clemente (/wiki/Francesco_Clemente) , Peter Beard (/wiki/Peter_Beard) , Julian Schnabel (/wiki/Julian_Schnabel) , and Terence Koh (/wiki/Terence_Koh) . His maternal grandmother Elizabeth Moynihan has also been a recurring subject in his personal work. Avedon describes his work as "a mix of movement and energy". [1] (#cite_note-nytimes-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c Bernstein, Jacob (December 5, 2012). "Michael Avedon Follows in His Grandfather's Footsteps" (https://www.nytimes.com/2012/12/06/fashion/michael-avedon-follows-in-his-grandfathers-footsteps.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved March 30, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "30 Under 30: The Bright Young Stars of Art and Style" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/susanadams/2012/12/17/30-under-30-the-bright-young-stars-of-art-and-style) . Forbes . December 17, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Celebrating Monogram – Marc Newsome" (http://uk.louisvuitton.com/eng-gb/articles/celebrating-monogram-marc-newson) . Louis Vuitton. October 20, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "BAZAAR'S NEW FUNNY FACE: EMMA FERRER" (http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-photography/emma-ferrer-0914) . Harper's Bazaar. August 19, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Bernstein, Jacob (December 5, 2012). "Michael Avedon Follows in His Grandfather's Footsteps" (https://www.nytimes.com/2012/12/06/fashion/michael-avedon-follows-in-his-grandfathers-footsteps.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved September 30, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Couture Diary: Photographs by Michael Avedon" (http://crfashionbook.com/post/31399908850/couture-diary-photography-michael-avedon) . CR Fashion Book. September 12, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Revisiting Couture: Michael Avedon" (http://crfashionbook.com/post/57630213011/michael-avedon) . CR Fashion Book. August 7, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Under the Influence Magazine: Issue 12" (http://www.undertheinfluencemagazine.com) . Under the Influence Magazine. January 1, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Fair Lady: Harper's Bazaar Introduces Emma Ferrer" (http://www.wwd.com/eye/people/fair-lady-7835454) . Women's Wear Daily . August 14, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-10) "On the Cover: Victims of School Shootings From 1946–2018, in Their Own Words" (http://nymag.com/press/2018/10/on-the-cover-victims-of-school-shootings-in-their-own-words.html) . New York Press Room . Retrieved October 29, 2018 . External links [ edit ] Michael Avedon Photography (https://michaelavedon.com) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : Artists Photographers' Identities (https://pic.nypl.org/constituents/390116) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐4f969 Cached time: 20240713225602 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.449 seconds Real time usage: 0.907 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2509/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 27460/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3157/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 42790/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.286/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7423440/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 613.054 1 -total 36.95% 226.517 1 Template:Infobox_person 22.87% 140.192 1 Template:Reflist 15.28% 93.699 3 Template:Cite_news 14.16% 86.785 1 Template:Short_description 13.87% 85.042 1 Template:Authority_control 11.09% 67.964 1 Template:Wikidata_image 8.23% 50.432 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 7.59% 46.516 2 Template:Cn 7.54% 46.230 21 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:41475810-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713225602 and revision id 1220897178. 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Italian-israeli multidisciplinary artist, writer and activist Helena Barbagelata Barbagelata in 2022 Born Helena Barbagelata Genova (/wiki/Genova) , Italy Occupation(s) Model, Artist Modeling information Height 5 ft 10 in (1.78 m) Hair color Blonde Eye color Amber (/wiki/Amber_eyes) Agency Model Management Helena Barbagelata (born 1991 (/wiki/1991) ) is an Italian– Israeli (/wiki/Israelis) model, multidisciplinary artist, writer, researcher and activist. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Life and career [ edit ] Since 2009, she has participated in numerous solo and group exhibitions. As an eclectic artist, her activity spans the fields of Painting (/wiki/Painting) , Sculpture (/wiki/Sculpture) , Dance (/wiki/Dance) , Music (/wiki/Music) , Performance (/wiki/Performance) , Film (/wiki/Film) and Literature (/wiki/Literature) . [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) In 2024, she exhibited her film Hospice of Dry Words and her multimedia project Voices of Resilience at Versopolis, with the support of the European Commission, Creative Europe Programme, [6] (#cite_note-6) she took part in PoetryExpo 24 [7] (#cite_note-7) and her artworks were featured in Florence Contemporary Gallery's 55 Artists to Discover in 2024 . [8] (#cite_note-8) She exhibited her series Fessures in Palermo (/wiki/Palermo) , Italy, in the group exhibition "Rooting our Cities" promoted by Artists for Plants in collaboration with the Botanical Garden of the University of Palermo. In 2023, she exhibited her mixed-media series Untamed Skin , in Laguna Beach (/wiki/Laguna_Beach) , California at Las Laguna Art Gallery. [9] (#cite_note-9) Her acrylic and gouache series The Long Road Home was on view at the University of Concordia (/wiki/Concordia_University) , Montreal, as part of the multimedia exposition Arts & Human Rights: Conversing Multiplicities organized and developed by the Human Rights Research and Education Centre (HRREC) from the University of Ottawa (/wiki/University_of_Ottawa) , Canada. [10] (#cite_note-10) She was awarded Best in Show for her artwork Darar II , in the group exhibition Essence in Hong Kong, at Gallery Omata. [11] (#cite_note-11) She took part in the international exhibition "C1en por Cientos", for LaFabrica Terminal, in Bogotá (/wiki/Bogot%C3%A1) , Colombia. [12] (#cite_note-12) She participated in the Art Fair ESCAPE In/Out, for Follow.Art, in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy, with her series Papercut Light. She was awarded a Silver Award for her artwork The Long Road Home II , in FACES 2023, International Juried Painting Exhibition, at Camelback Gallery, and awarded an Artistic Excellence Award for her artwork The Nameless Silence, by Circle Foundation for the Arts. [13] (#cite_note-13) Helena Barbagelata at Eritage exhibition, 2022 In 2022, she exhibited AHAVA in Rome (/wiki/Rome) , Italy, at Millepiani in the group exhibition "POLITICAL STATEMENT". [14] (#cite_note-14) The artist also presented her series The Movable Limit in Florence (/wiki/Florence) , Italy, for Florence Contemporary Art Gallery [15] (#cite_note-15) and she participated in the video-art installation Artists at Work in Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp) , Belgium (/wiki/Belgium) , at NIIC for Antwerp Art Weekend. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) Her work Magma was exhibited in Buenos Aires (/wiki/Buenos_Aires) , Argentina (/wiki/Argentina) , at Galería Gisel Durán and awarded a jury's mention. [18] (#cite_note-18) She participated in the group show 1000 Women in Art , in Nuevo León (/wiki/Nuevo_Le%C3%B3n) , Mexico, for Museo del Antiguo Palacio de García, in homage of International Women's Day (/wiki/International_Women%27s_Day) . [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) She was invited to participate in the XIII Florence Biennale Eternal Feminine/Eternal Change, Concepts of Femininity in Contemporary Art and Design, under the patronage of the European Parliament, the Italian Commission of UNESCO, the Italian Ministry of Culture and Tourism, the Region of Tuscany, and the Municipality of Florence. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2021, she took part in "Project Lazaretta: Digital Stories from the Old and New World", Eyes Walk Festival, CulturePolis, supported by the Ministry of Culture and Sport of the Greek Government, with her short-film The Key to the Abysm . [22] (#cite_note-22) That same year, she participated in Israel Art Market's Passover Exhibition, [23] (#cite_note-23) and exhibited her series INSULA at Kulturschöpfer, Green Hill Gallery in Berlin (/wiki/Berlin) , Germany. [24] (#cite_note-24) She had her work on display at Gorki Park (/wiki/Gorky_Park_(Moscow)) , Muzeon Art Center in Moscow, Russia, as one of the finalists of "TAKEDA ART/HELP. Expanding the Limits of the Visible" international art prize, awarded by Saint Petersburg Repin Academy of Arts (/wiki/Saint_Petersburg_Repin_Academy_of_Arts) and the HSE Art and Design School. [25] (#cite_note-25) Her artworks have been featured in several international art magazines and catalogs, such as Artist Talk Magazine, [26] (#cite_note-26) Art Magazineium, [27] (#cite_note-27) Modern Renaissance, [28] (#cite_note-28) GRAES, [29] (#cite_note-29) Antithesis, [30] (#cite_note-30) Tint Journal, [31] (#cite_note-31) Bruxelles Art Vue, [32] (#cite_note-32) among others. She's a member of the America-Israel Cultural Foundation (/wiki/America-Israel_Cultural_Foundation) . [33] (#cite_note-33) Bibliography [ edit ] Poetry and Illustrations [ edit ] Black Ink . Sod Press (2023) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8863974095 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8863974095) [34] (#cite_note-34) Enlisted Youth . Sod Press (2023) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8863167244 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8863167244) [35] (#cite_note-35) Terra Sigillata . Empoli (2023) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8398218282 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8398218282) [36] (#cite_note-36) Steps in Time . Sod Press (2022) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8862794045 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8862794045) [37] (#cite_note-37) Ahava . Sod Press (2020) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8398944303 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8398944303) [38] (#cite_note-38) Yareach Zamir . Sod Press (2021) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8862582437 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8862582437) Illustrated Short Story collections [ edit ] Heartstrings . Sod Press (2024) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8884843011 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8884843011) [39] (#cite_note-39) Le Navi Insognate . Rizzoli (2017) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8492302900 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8492302900) El Naranjo Embrujado . Euterpe (2019) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8521106196 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/979-8521106196) [40] (#cite_note-40) Published works [ edit ] Author and Illustrator [ edit ] Shayit , 2023, published by Modern Renaissance – Arts Magazine, Culturally Arts Collective. [41] (#cite_note-41) Fire and Brimstone , 2023, published by Insights of an Eco Artist . [42] (#cite_note-42) Color Sur and Rimon , 2022, published by Art Magazineium. [43] (#cite_note-43) Gymnographia , 2022, published by Horizonte Gris – Revista Literaria. [44] (#cite_note-44) Three Poems and Three Illustrations from Fasti Diurni, 2021, published by Magma Magazine Italia , with commentary by Damiana De Gennaro. [45] (#cite_note-45) Amarelinha , 2021, published by Laranja Original – Literature and Art Review, Autumn/winter 2021 issue, São Paulo, Brazil. [46] (#cite_note-46) El Naranjo Embrujado , Three Poems and Three Illustrations, 2021, published by Ruído Manifesto – Literatura, Crítica e Audiovisual. [47] (#cite_note-47) Tsippor , 2021, published by Pigeon Review – an Art and Literary Journal, August/Summer issue. [48] (#cite_note-48) Chofesh , 2021, published by Revista Rito, June issue. [49] (#cite_note-49) Firedances , 2021, published by Bookends Review, September issue. [50] (#cite_note-50) Alegrías , 2020, published by GRAES Magazine – For Multilingual Minds, issue 2, Dialect. [51] (#cite_note-51) Kedoshim , 2020, magazine cover, published by Kind Writers – Literary Magazine, San Diego, California. [52] (#cite_note-52) River-Daughters , 2020, published by The New Southern Fugitives – Literary Zine, Vol. 3, Issue 25, SFK PRESS, Louisiana, USA. [53] (#cite_note-53) Exodus , 2020, published by Writing for Peace – A Literary Journal of the Arts , Resistance Issue. New York, USA. Dryad , 2019, published by Formidable Woman Sanctuary Issue No. 2, Vol. 1. [54] (#cite_note-54) Illustrated by Barbagelata [ edit ] Ficção Talvez Ensaio , illustrated by Shevirat , 2023, published in Revista Caliban, written by Demétrio Panarotto. [55] (#cite_note-55) Omissions , 2022, published in The Brooklyn Review, written by Lauren McGovern. [56] (#cite_note-56) Ghosts of Shivalik , 2021, published by AbstractMagazine:Contemporary Expressions, written by Kulbir Saran. [57] (#cite_note-57) Please don't let me be misunderstood , 2020, SINK Hollow – Issue No. 9, Utah State University, written by Rebecca Bihn-Wallace. [58] (#cite_note-58) The Music Woman Plays Infinite Strings , 2020, published by TINT Journal – Issue No. 2, written by Rhea Malik. [59] (#cite_note-59) Loving Myself Sick, 2020, published by ANTITHESIS Journal – Volume 30, Mental. University of Melbourne, Australia, written by Maja Amanita. [60] (#cite_note-60) Entre as coisas estrangeiras , 2020, InComunidade – Art and Culture. #Issue 99, written by Marcos Pamplona. [61] (#cite_note-61) Subversa , Vol.5, nº10, magazine cover and internal illustrations, 2016, published by Subversa. [62] (#cite_note-62) Subversa , Vol.5, nº4, magazine cover and internal illustrations, 2016, published by Subversa. [63] (#cite_note-63) Including work by Barbagelata [ edit ] Artist Talk Magazine , 2023, Issue 23, published by Milne Publishing. [64] (#cite_note-64) Art Magazineium , Issue 22, 2023 published by Art Magazineium. [65] (#cite_note-65) Goddess Arts Magazine , 2023, Issue 8, published by Lena Snow. [66] (#cite_note-66) 1000 Mujeres en el Arte , 2022, curated by Cintia Arellano (org), published by Museo Nacional del Antiguo Palacio de García, with the support of the Municipality of Nuevo León, México. [67] (#cite_note-67) Limitless Nature , 2022, published by Bruxelles Art Vue. [68] (#cite_note-68) The Social Art Award 2021-New Greening , Edition No. 3, 2021, published by Institute for Art and Innovation e.V. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-9819114-3-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-3-9819114-3-5) . [69] (#cite_note-69) Child refugees-Vulnerabilities and Strength through Art , 2022, published by Artvocate Journal. [70] (#cite_note-70) The Working Artist , 2021, Vol.1, published by the Working Artist. ChromART , 2021, published by Chroma Art Gallery, editor Georgina Magklara. [71] (#cite_note-71) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Helena Barbagelata" (https://artvocate.co/collections/helena-barbagelata) . Artvocate . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Mixing the real and the perceived -the abstract paintings of Helena Barbagelata" (https://www.insightsofayoungecologicalartist.com/art/mixing-the-real-and-the-perceived--the-abstract-paintings-of-helena-barbagelata) . InsightsofanE.Artist . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) by. "Helena Barbagelata – Circle Foundation for the Arts" (https://circle-arts.com/aom7-interview-helena-barbagelata/) . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Kann, Bianca (2023-11-13). "Helena Barbagelata: Multifaceted Muse of Modern Artistry" (https://aatonau.com/helena-barbagelata-multifaceted-muse-of-modern-artistry/) . AATONAU! . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Helena Barbagelata | GAi - Giovani Artisti italiani" (https://www.giovaniartisti.it/artista/barbagelata-helena) . www.giovaniartisti.it (in Italian) . Retrieved 2024-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Beletrina, Production. "Hospice of Dry Words | Versopolis" (https://www.versopolis.com/initiative/poetry-expo-24/content/1525/hospice-of-dry-words) . www.versopolis.com . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Beletrina, Production. "Helena Barbagelata | Versopolis Poetry" (https://www.versopolis.com/author/818/helena-barbagelata) . www.versopolis.com . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Contemporary, Florence (2024-03-12). 55 Artist to Discover: 2024 Edition . Independently published. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8-8826-6331-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "2023 – Gone Wild" (https://www.laslagunaartgallery.com/2023wild) . laslagunagallery . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) " (https://emergentartspace.org/?forum=ahr) 'Art & Human Rights' | 2023 – Emergent Art Space" (https://emergentartspace.org/?forum=ahr) . Emergent Art Space – . 2023-05-16 . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Art Exhibition | Essence | Online Exhibition on Art.Base" (https://art.base.co/event/11314-art-exhibition-essence-online-exhibition) . Art.Base . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "La Fábrica Terminal | La fabrica terminal" (https://lafabricaterminal.com/lafactory/) (in Spanish) . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) by. "Helena Barbagelata – Circle Foundation for the Arts" (https://circle-arts.com/aom7-interview-helena-barbagelata/) . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "POLITICAL STATEMENT Loosen Art « Millepiani coworking" (http://www.millepiani.eu/political-statement-loosen-art/) (in Italian) . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "NEW VISIONS" (https://www.florencecontemporary.com/newvisions) . FlorenceContemporary . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "ARTIST @ WORK | NICC" (https://nicc.be/video-audio/artist-work-may-26th/) . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Helena Barbagelata | NICC" (https://nicc.be/artist/helena-barbagelata/) . Retrieved 2024-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) VIDEO DE OBRAS PREMIADAS CONCURSO INTERNACIONAL VIRTUAL "CompARTE" , retrieved 2023-09-12 ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Catalogo 1 | PDF | Lona" (https://es.scribd.com/document/564478843/CATALOGO-1) . Scribd . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Catálogo 3 | PDF | Pinturas | Cáncer" (https://es.scribd.com/document/564478425/CATALOGO-3) . Scribd . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Celona, Jacopo. "Letter of Official Admission" (https://dglb26w8rx2ld.cloudfront.net/000_clients/3715666/page/letterabarbagelata-c694ca.pdf) (PDF) . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Helena Barbagelata 'La llave del abismo – The key to the abysm' / Spain" (https://projectlazaretta.eyeswalk.gr/en/helena-barbagelata-la-llave-del-abismo-the-key-to-the-abysm-spain/) . Project Lazaretta . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "PASSOVER EXHIBITION 2021 – Israeli Art Market" (https://www.israeliartmarket.com/product-category/passover-exhibition-2021/) . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Green Hill Gallery SPLIT OPEN Exhibition" (https://www.kulturschoepfer.de/ghg-split-open-exhibition) . Kulturschöpfer . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Такеда. ART/HELP" (https://www.takeda.com/social-projects/Takeda_bol_volja) . www.takeda.com (in Russian) . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Artist Talk Issue 23" (https://www.artisttalkmagazine.com/issue-23) . www.artisttalkmagazine.com . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "December Artmagazineium 2022" (https://online.fliphtml5.com/krjfo/fjaa/) . online.fliphtml5.com . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Spring 2023 Issue – Print" (https://www.culturallyarts.com/product-page/spring-2023-issue-print) . Culturally Arts Coll . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "GRÆS Magazine – Issue 2" (https://loremnotipsum.com/product/graes-magazine-issue-2/) . LOREM (not Ipsum) . Retrieved 2023-09-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Antithesis Volume 30: Mental by Antithesis Journal – Issuu" (https://issuu.com/antithesisjournal/docs/a2020_final_document__compressed) . issuu.com . 2020-10-30 . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "Tintjournal – The Music Woman plays Infinite Strings" (https://tintjournal.com/short-story/the-music-woman-plays-infinite-strings) . tintjournal.com . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "Limitless Nature 2022 – hardcover" (https://bruxellesartvue.com/product/limitless-nature-2022-hardcover/) . Bruxelles Art Vue . Retrieved 2023-09-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Helena Barbagelata – AICF" (https://aicf.org/artist/helena-barbagelata/) . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Noble, Barnes &. "Black Ink|Paperback" (https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/black-ink-helena-barbagelata/1144202953) . Barnes & Noble . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Noble, Barnes &. "Enlisted Youth|Paperback" (https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/enlisted-youth-helena-barbagelata/1144161899?ean=9798863167244) . Barnes & Noble . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Noble, Barnes &. "Terra Sigillata|Paperback" (https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/terra-sigillata-helena-barbagelata/1143652689?ean=9798398218282) . Barnes & Noble . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) Barbagelata, Helena (2023-09-29). Steps In Time . Independently published. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8-8627-9404-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Noble, Barnes &. "AHAVA|Paperback" (https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/ahava-helena-barbagelata/1143838399?ean=9798398944303) . Barnes & Noble . Retrieved 2024-03-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Barbagelata, Helena (2024-03-14). Heartstrings . Independently published. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8-8848-4301-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Barbagelata, Helena. El Naranjo Embrujado . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 979-8521106196 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Modern Renaissance Arts Magazine" (https://www.culturallyarts.com/product-page/spring-2023-issue-print) . Culturally Arts Collective . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Insights of an Eco Artist- Vol.II" (https://www.insightsofayoungecologicalartist.com/product-page/issue-ii) . InsightsofanE.Artist . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "December Artmagazineium 2022" (https://online.fliphtml5.com/krjfo/fjaa/) . online.fliphtml5.com . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) "HORIZONTE GRIS N°4.pdf" (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fqSSbtQKsu0VKsKvxrKfbx9s9kqOAnM6/view?fbclid=IwAR2NlGWwTFPq94y_y2jUS_VPW5WmLsbgxs3NZS17zGotTYESlVOYMDL-25U&usp=embed_facebook) . Google Docs . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) MM, Redazione (2021-11-17). "Tre poesie di Helena Barbagelata" (https://www.magmamag.it/helena-barbagelata-tre-poesie/) . Magma Magazine (in Italian) . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) "Revista de Literatura e Arte 5" (https://www.laranjaoriginal.com.br/product-page/revista-de-literatura-e-arte-5) . laranja-original (in Portuguese) . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) Marcelo, Wuldson (2021-02-17). "Três poemas e três ilustrações de Helena Barbagelata" (https://ruidomanifesto.org/tres-poemas-e-tres-ilustracoes-de-helena-barbagelata/) . Ruído Manifesto (in Brazilian Portuguese) . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Art" (https://www.pigeonreview.com/art) . Pigeon Review . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-49) "Chofesh" (https://revistarito.com/chofesh/) . Revista Rito (in Spanish). 2021-06-01 . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) "Helena Barbagelata" (http://thebookendsreview.com/helena-barbagelata/) . The Bookends Review . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) "GRÆS, Issue Two – Dialect" (https://papercutshop.se/product/graes-issue-two-dialect/) . Papercut . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) "Kind Writers Issue 3 (Pre-Order)" (https://www.kindwriters.com/product-page/kind-writers-issue-3) . Kind Writers . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) "Faith and Phantasm [Volume 3, Issue 25]" (https://us14.campaign-archive.com/?u=35a1c5ced78331d568911dab2&id=bc2c041378&fbclid=IwAR3Suv0ddJgOeE80aUjHU1Zy61HXwfu8fLVlU-c7bseJTJyFmVxEDmJW9oE) . us14.campaign-archive.com . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-54) "Issue No. 2, Vol. 1, Fall 2019" (https://formidablewoman.org/fws-a-journal-of-literature-art/issue-no-2-vol-1-fall-2019/) . formidable woman sanctuary . 2019-10-28 . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-55) Caliban, Ed (2023-06-17). "ficção, talvez ensaio…" (https://revistacaliban.net/fic%C3%A7%C3%A3o-talvez-ensaio-e353a86a2222) . Medium . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-56) McGovern, Lauren (2022-01-28). "Omissions | Lauren McGovern – The Brooklyn Review" (https://www.bkreview.org/nonfiction/omissions/) . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) Jacobs, J. L. (2021-01-27). "ghosts of shivalik by Kulbir Saran" (https://abstractmagazinetv.com/2021/01/27/ghosts-of-shivalik-by-kulbir-saran/) . Abstract Mag TV . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) "Sink Hollow Issue 9 by Sink Hollow Undergraduate Literary Journal – Issuu" (https://issuu.com/sinkhollow/docs/sink_hollow_issue_9_final_revised) . issuu.com . 2020-05-06 . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-59) "Tintjournal – The Music Woman plays Infinite Strings" (https://tintjournal.com/short-story/the-music-woman-plays-infinite-strings) . tintjournal.com . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) "Antithesis Volume 30: Mental by Antithesis Journal – Issuu" (https://issuu.com/antithesisjournal/docs/a2020_final_document__compressed) . issuu.com . 2020-10-30 . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-61) "InComunidade" (http://old.incomunidade.com/v99/art.php?art=449) . old.incomunidade.com . Retrieved 2023-09-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-62) "Revista subversa vol 5 n10 dez 2016 by Revista Subversa (acervo) – Issuu" (https://issuu.com/revistasubversa/docs/revista_subversa_vol._5.n10.dez.201) . issuu.com . 2016-12-15 . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-63) "Revista subversa vol 5 n4 setembro2016 by Revista Subversa (acervo) – Issuu" (https://issuu.com/revistasubversa/docs/revista_subversa_vol._5.n4.setembro) . issuu.com . 2016-09-15 . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-64) "Artist Talk Issue 23" (https://www.artisttalkmagazine.com/issue-23) . www.artisttalkmagazine.com . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-65) "December Artmagazineium 2022" (https://online.fliphtml5.com/krjfo/fjaa/) . online.fliphtml5.com . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-66) "Blurb Books" (https://www.blurb.com/books/11463295-goddessartsmagissue8) . www.blurb.com . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-67) "Catalogo 1 | PDF | Lona" (https://es.scribd.com/document/564478843/CATALOGO-1) . Scribd . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) "Limitless Nature 2022 – hardcover" (https://bruxellesartvue.com/product/limitless-nature-2022-hardcover/) . Bruxelles Art Vue . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-69) Loeser, N. (2021). The Social Art Award 2021-New Greening, Edition No. 3 (3rd ed.). Berlin, Germany: Berlin, Germany: Institute for Art and Innovation e.V. (208 pages, soft cover, English). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-9819114-3-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-70) "Child refugees - vulnerabilities and strength through art" (https://artvocate.co/blogs/journal/child-refugees-art-and-innocence) . Artvocate . Retrieved 2023-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-71) "Archive – Digital Chroma" (https://digital-chroma.com/magazine/archive/) . Retrieved 2023-09-18 . 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Type of Japanese crown Emperor Akihito (/wiki/Emperor_Akihito) wearing a kanmuri with sokutai (/wiki/Sokutai) A kanmuri ( 冠 , lit. (/wiki/Literal_translation) ' crown ' ) is a type of headwear worn by adult men of the kuge (/wiki/Kuge) (noble class) and buke ( samurai (/wiki/Samurai) class) in Japan. It was generally made of thin black silk hardened with lacquer, but there was also a metal crown called a raikan (/wiki/Raikan) that was worn only during the emperor's enthronement ceremony and the chōga ceremony (New Year greeting ceremony). It was the standard headwear worn by adult men at the Japanese imperial court, including courtiers, aristocrats, and the emperor, from the Heian period (/wiki/Heian_period) to the Meiji Restoration (/wiki/Meiji_Restoration) . Today, it is worn only by the Imperial Family and government officials on rare occasions, such as weddings and the accession of new emperors. It is worn in conjunction with the sokutai (/wiki/Sokutai) . [1] (#cite_note-1) At the back of the kanmuri is a long, thin silk ornament called ei ( 纓 ) , which is a variation of string. Types of kanmuri generally differ in the shape of the ei and the textile pattern, and also according to the rank of the person. The kanmuri is still worn today by the Japanese imperial family and Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) priests. The Toyota Camry (/wiki/Toyota_Camry) is named after the kanmuri . [2] (#cite_note-kanmuri-2) Terminology [ edit ] Kanmuri ( かんむり ) is a word that is a corruption of kōburi ( こうぶり ) , originally meaning "headwear." The main materials used for kanmuri were gold, silver, gilt, and cloth or cloth hardened with lacquer. Gradually, however, it came to refer primarily to the lacquer-fastened cloth headwear worn by the nobility with their court dress ( sokutai (/wiki/Sokutai) ). Kanmuri is written as 冠 in Chinese characters and also pronounced kan in on'yomi (/wiki/On%27yomi) (Chinese reading). It is also added as a suffix to other words to denote various types of kanmuri . For example, benkan (/wiki/Benkan) ( 冕冠 ), raikan (/wiki/Raikan) ( 礼冠 ), sui'ei-kan ( 垂纓冠 ) , ken'ei-kan ( 巻纓冠 ) , etc. Structure [ edit ] Sui'ei , a typical kanmuri for civilian officials. From the Jidai Matsuri (/wiki/Jidai_Matsuri) . The kanmuri is divided into three main parts: the part worn on the head, the koji ( 巾子 ), which holds the topknot, and the ei ( 纓 ), a thin, long piece of cloth that hangs down the back. As accessories, there is a string called ageo ( 上緒 ) that hangs at the base of the koji , and a hairpin that pierces the topknot and holds it in place. The kanmuri of a military officer is adorned with a fan-shaped decoration made of horsehair called oikake ( 緌 ), which is attached to the sides of the kanmuri . Depending on the ceremony, the kanmuri may also be adorned with a kazashi ( 挿頭 ), a flower arrangement made of fresh or artificial flowers. Also, since the hairpin does not function in modern times because the topknot is not tied, a white paper string called kakeo ( 懸緒 ) is attached to keep the kanmuri from falling off the head, and is usually tied under the chin. History [ edit ] Painting of an official of the Nara period wearing a tokin , Shōsōin (/wiki/Sh%C5%8Ds%C5%8Din) Treasure, 8th century In the Chinese history book Sanguozhi (/wiki/Sanguozhi) (The Records of the Three Kingdoms), " Wajinden (/wiki/Wajinden) " (Treatise on the Wa People) describes that Japanese men wore nothing but a paper mulberry (/wiki/Paper_mulberry) cloth around their heads, suggesting that there were still no crowns in Japan during the Yayoi period but something similar to hachimaki (/wiki/Hachimaki) (Japanese headband). [3] (#cite_note-Tokinoya1996-3) In the Kofun period (/wiki/Kofun_period) , gilt bronze crowns and crown caps have been excavated from kofun (/wiki/Kofun) (tumuli) throughout Japan, including the Eta Funayama Kofun (/wiki/Eta_Funayama_Kofun) and the Fujinoki Kofun (/wiki/Fujinoki_Kofun) . The official association of status with the kanmuri in Japan began with the establishment of the Twelve Level Cap and Rank System (/wiki/Twelve_Level_Cap_and_Rank_System) in 603. In a description of Japan (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/zh:%E9%9A%8B%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B781) in the Book of Sui (/wiki/Book_of_Sui) (636), it is written, "In the Sui Dynasty, that (Japanese) king created the system of crowns for the first time. The crowns were made of brocade or patterned cloth, and were further adorned with gold or silver floral ornaments." [4] (#cite_note-4) [a] (#cite_note-5) The Tenjukoku Shūchō Mandala (/wiki/Tenjukoku_Sh%C5%ABch%C5%8D_Mandala) (622), which is said to have been produced under the guidance of Prince Shōtoku (/wiki/Prince_Sh%C5%8Dtoku) 's wife, shows that the kanmuri at that time was like a silk cap, with colors such as red, blue, black, and purple corresponding to the official rank. The direct origin of the kanmuri in Japan is believed to be the tokin ( 頭巾 ), which was worn when wearing court dress ( 朝服 ), as established in the clothing ordinance of the Yōrō Code (/wiki/Y%C5%8Dr%C5%8D_Code) . [5] (#cite_note-6) This is similar to the futou (/wiki/Futou) ( 幞頭 ) used for the Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) 's regular dress. Raikan and raifuku for civilian officials The first formal dress of the nobility was raifuku ( 礼服 , lit. (/wiki/Literal_translation) ' ceremonial dress ' ), in which they wore a metal and cloth crown called a raikan , and court dress was the second formal dress. The tokin was a cap made of black silk with four strings (long narrow cloths) attached to the front and back of the cap. The front two strings tied at the top of the head were called ageo , and the back two strings tied at the back of the head were called enbi ( 燕尾 , lit. (/wiki/Literal_translation) ' swallow's tail ' ). [6] (#cite_note-7) The raikan and raifuku were expensive and were initially worn only for chōga ( 朝賀 , lit. (/wiki/Literal_translation) ' New Year's greetings ' ) and enthronement ceremonies; later they were worn only for enthronement ceremonies. Hence, tokin and court dress became the de facto first formal attire. During the Heian period (/wiki/Heian_period) (794-1185), the influence of Chinese culture was shed and a uniquely Japanese culture called kokufū bunka ( 国風文化 , lit. (/wiki/Literal_translation) ' Japanese-style culture ' ) flourished. Under this influence, tokion was replaced by kanmuri and court dress by sokutai (/wiki/Sokutai) . An aristocratic man wearing early kanmuri and sokutai . From Illustrated Biography of Prince Shōtoku (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E8%81%96%E5%BE%B3%E5%A4%AA%E5%AD%90%E7%B5%B5%E4%BC%9D) (1069). Although the Illustrated Biography of Prince Shōtoku (1069) is a painting about Prince Shōtoku (/wiki/Prince_Sh%C5%8Dtoku) (547-622), the costumes depicted in it are from the Heian period. Since kanmuri and sokutai of the time have not survived, they are important clues to understanding the costumes of the time. The enbi , the strings at the back of the kanmuri , became known as ei , and changed from strings to ornaments. The cap part was hardened with black lacquer, but in the early period it was thinly coated with lacquer, so it lost its shape when it rained. Later, thicker coats of lacquer were applied to harden it. Thin silk, the material used for kanmuri , is called ra (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E7%BE%85) ( 羅 ). ra is a textile using the leno weaving (/wiki/Leno_weave) technique, invented in China and produced in Japan by the 7th century. [7] (#cite_note-Japonica1971-8) The kanmuri for nobles of the fifth rank and above had patterns woven into the ra using a special technique. The ra with this pattern was called monra ( 文羅 , lit. (/wiki/Literal_translation) ' ra with pattern ' ). However, during the Ōnin War (/wiki/%C5%8Cnin_War) , which burned down most of Kyoto (/wiki/Kyoto) , the technical knowledge of making such monra was lost. Later, the monra was replaced by a technique of embroidering patterns directly on the ra . One of the oldest surviving kanmuri is that of Tokugawa Ieyasu (/wiki/Tokugawa_Ieyasu) (1543-1616), the first shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate (/wiki/Tokugawa_shogunate) . It is a kanmuri made of ra with no pattern. [8] (#cite_note-9) Kanmuri of sui'ei with pattern In 1687, the kanmuri with embroidered patterns was revived from the Daijosai (/wiki/Daijosai) ceremony that accompanied the enthronement of Emperor Higashiyama (/wiki/Emperor_Higashiyama) . A total of 31 or 33 patterns were embroidered on the kanmuri of nobles of the fifth rank and above. This was called a kanmuri of shigemon ( 繁文 , lit. (/wiki/Literal_translation) ' many patterns ' ) . A kanmuri with fewer patterns was called a kanmuri of tōmon ( 遠文 , lit. (/wiki/Literal_translation) ' patterns with many gaps ' ) and was worn by the lower ranks of nobility. [9] (#cite_note-Yatsuka1962-10) In the Edo period (/wiki/Edo_period) (1603-1867), a new kanmuri called Go-Ryūei ( 御立纓 ) was introduced exclusively for the emperor, in which the ei stands upright. In the beginning, it was not perfectly upright, but stood gently bent. However, after the kanmuri of Emperor Meiji (/wiki/Emperor_Meiji) , it began to stand upright. [10] (#cite_note-Hachijo2021-11) After the Meiji Restoration (/wiki/Meiji_Restoration) , the use of kanmuri declined dramatically as the formal dress of the Japanese nobility became Western-style. Currently, members of the imperial family use kanmuri for enthronement, marriage, and ritual ceremonies. Shinto priests also still use kanmuri today. In the enthronement ceremony of Emperor Meiji, the benkan , which had been used until then, was rejected as being too Chinese in style, and Go-Ryū'ei was used instead. The Go-Ryū'ei was also used in the subsequent enthronement ceremonies of Emperors Taishō (/wiki/Emperor_Taish%C5%8D) , Showa (/wiki/Emperor_Showa) , Akihito (/wiki/Akihito) , and Naruhito (/wiki/Naruhito) . Types of Kanmuri [ edit ] Benkan (/wiki/Benkan) ( 冕冠 ): Metal and cloth crown exclusively for the Emperor. Raikan ( 礼冠 ): Metal and cloth crown for nobility of 5th rank and above. Go-Ryūei ( 御立纓 ): Kanmuri exclusively for the emperor. O-Kin Koji ( 御金巾子 ): A kanmuri with the ei fastened with gold leaf paper. For the emperor's daily use. O-Saku ( 御幘 ): A kanmuri used by the emperor during Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) rituals. Sui'ei ( 垂纓 ): A kanmuri with the ei hanging down in the back. Ken'ei ( 巻纓 ): A kanmuri for a military officer with the ei wrapped around it. Gallery [ edit ] Benkan of Emperor Kōmei (/wiki/Emperor_K%C5%8Dmei) (reigned 1847-1867) Sun-shaped celestial crown of Emperor Kōkaku (/wiki/Emperor_K%C5%8Dkaku) (reigned 1779 -1817) Raikan, 18th century Emperor Meiji (/wiki/Emperor_Meiji) wearing Go-Ryū'ei O-saku kanmuri for military officers A nobleman wearing sui'ei kanmuri as depicted in the Genji Monogatari Emaki (/wiki/Genji_Monogatari_Emaki) A kanmuri with a kazashi (floral ornament) The last shogun (/wiki/Shogun) , Tokugawa Yoshinobu (/wiki/Tokugawa_Yoshinobu) See also [ edit ] Benkan (/wiki/Benkan) Raikan (/wiki/Raikan) References [ edit ] Notes ^ (#cite_ref-5) The original text is "至隋,其王始制冠,以錦綵為之,以金銀鏤花為飾。". Sources ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Dress - Japan" (https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing/Japan) . Encyclopedia Britannica . Retrieved 16 May 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-kanmuri_2-0) Robinson, Aaron (February 2007). "2007 Honda Accord vs. Nissan Altima, Kia Optima, Saturn Aura, Toyota Camry, Chrysler Sebring" (http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparisons/07q1/2007_honda_accord_vs._nissan_altima_kia_optima_saturn_aura_toyota_camry_chrysler_sebring-comparison_tests) . Car and Driver (/wiki/Car_and_Driver) . Retrieved 11 July 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-Tokinoya1996_3-0) Tokinoya, Shigeru (January 1996). "魏志倭人伝の史料批判" (https://dl.ndl.go.jp/pid/4413890/1/17) [Historical Criticism of Wajinden]. Transactions of the Kojiki Academy (38). Kojiki Academy: 1–28. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.11501/4413890 (https://doi.org/10.11501%2F4413890) . ^ (#cite_ref-4) 隋書 (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/zh:%E9%9A%8B%E6%9B%B8) (in Chinese) – via Wikisource (/wiki/Wikisource) . ^ (#cite_ref-6) 黒板; 勝美 (1939). Kuroita, Katsumi (ed.). 国史大系 [ Compendium of Japanese National History ] (in Japanese). Vol. 22 (New Revised and Enlarged ed.). Kokushi Taisei Shuppan-kai. pp. 213–219. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.11501/3431635 (https://doi.org/10.11501%2F3431635) . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Izutsu, Gafu (July 1982). 原色日本服飾史 [ A History of Japanese Clothing in Original Color ] (in Japanese). Korinsha Publishing. p. 31. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.11501/12169204 (https://doi.org/10.11501%2F12169204) . ^ (#cite_ref-Japonica1971_8-0) 大日本百科事典 [ Encyclopedia Japonica ] (in Japanese). Vol. 18. Shogakukan. 1971. p. 112. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.11501/2526000 (https://doi.org/10.11501%2F2526000) . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Yasunaga, Takuyo. コラム「二重の箱と包みに守られた家康の冠(かんむり)」 [Ieyasu's Crown Protected by Double Box and Wrapping]. Wakayama Prefectural Museum . Retrieved 2024-01-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-Yatsuka1962_10-0) Yatsuka, Kiyotsura (1962). 装束の知識と著法 [ Knowledge of Costumes and How to Wear Them ] (in Japanese). Bunshinsha. p. 77. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.11501/2939851 (https://doi.org/10.11501%2F2939851) . ^ (#cite_ref-Hachijo2021_11-0) Hachijo, Tadatomo (2021-03-09). 日本の装束解剖図鑑 [ Anatomy Illustrated Book of Japanese Costumes ]. X-Knowledge. p. 98. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-4-7678-2861-9 . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Kanmuri_(headwear)&oldid=1234128563 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Kanmuri_(headwear)&oldid=1234128563) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Court uniforms and dress (/wiki/Category:Court_uniforms_and_dress) Japanese headgear (/wiki/Category:Japanese_headgear) Japanese words and phrases (/wiki/Category:Japanese_words_and_phrases) Hidden categories: CS1 Chinese-language sources (zh) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Chinese-language_sources_(zh)) CS1 uses Japanese-language script (ja) (/wiki/Category:CS1_uses_Japanese-language_script_(ja)) CS1 Japanese-language sources (ja) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Japanese-language_sources_(ja)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles containing Japanese-language text (/wiki/Category:Articles_containing_Japanese-language_text) Articles containing Chinese-language text (/wiki/Category:Articles_containing_Chinese-language_text) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata)
See also: Clothing industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Clothes shop in Eger (/wiki/Eger) , Heves County (/wiki/Heves_County) , Hungary Clothes shop in San Martín Sacatepéquez (/wiki/San_Mart%C3%ADn_Sacatep%C3%A9quez) , Quetzaltenango (/wiki/Quetzaltenango_department) , Guatemala A clothes shop or clothes store is any shop which sells items of ready-made clothing (/wiki/Clothing) . [1] (#cite_note-dummy-1) : 59 A small shop which sells expensive or designer clothing (/wiki/Designer_clothing) may be called a boutique (/wiki/Boutique) . A shop that sells clothes for a narrowly-restricted market such as school uniforms (/wiki/School_uniform) or outdoor sports (/wiki/Outdoor_sports) may be called an outfitter (/wiki/Outfitter) . History [ edit ] It is not known when the first clothes shops were opened in Europe. Before the era of ready-made clothes, when clothing was made by tailors (/wiki/Tailor) or artisans, shops may have sold second-hand clothing. Some ready-made clothes may have been made in the sixteenth century. [2] (#cite_note-alison-2) The number of clothes shops appears to have risen steadily long before the beginning of large-scale industrial manufacture of clothing in the second half of the nineteenth century. [2] (#cite_note-alison-2) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-dummy_1-0) Gavin Dudeney, Nick Hockly (2010). Learning English as a Foreign Language for Dummies . Chichester: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780470685877 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780470685877) . ^ Jump up to: a b Alison Toplis (2011). The Clothing Trade in Provincial England, 1800-1850 . London: Pickering & Chatto Publishers. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781848931169 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9781848931169) . Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : National Czech Republic (https://aleph.nkp.cz/F/?func=find-c&local_base=aut&ccl_term=ica=ph898896&CON_LNG=ENG) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐7c8d5dd4db‐5rnxl Cached time: 20240708172604 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.242 seconds Real time usage: 0.327 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1784/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 7518/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1213/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 16/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 12523/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.140/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 1894347/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 289.586 1 -total 38.13% 110.424 1 Template:Authority_control 23.69% 68.613 1 Template:Reflist 18.69% 54.132 2 Template:Isbn 14.46% 41.862 2 Template:Catalog_lookup_link 13.79% 39.923 1 Template:See_also 12.81% 37.103 3 Template:R 10.67% 30.906 3 Template:R/ref 7.16% 20.742 1 Template:Use_dmy_dates 6.84% 19.805 3 Template:R/superscript Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:52986513-0!canonical and timestamp 20240708172604 and revision id 1226125283. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Clothes_shop&oldid=1226125283 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Clothes_shop&oldid=1226125283) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Clothing retailers (/wiki/Category:Clothing_retailers) Sales occupations (/wiki/Category:Sales_occupations) Retailers by type of merchandise sold (/wiki/Category:Retailers_by_type_of_merchandise_sold) Hidden categories: Use dmy dates from January 2017 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_January_2017) Use list-defined references from January 2017 (/wiki/Category:Use_list-defined_references_from_January_2017) Use British English from January 2017 (/wiki/Category:Use_British_English_from_January_2017) Articles with NKC identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_NKC_identifiers)
NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.eqiad.main‐78789c78f5‐rglqw Cached time: 20240628055700 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.002 seconds Real time usage: 0.003 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 0/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 1/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 0/5000000 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 0.000 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:19372321-0!canonical and timestamp 20240628055700 and revision id 1174755679. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse Pages in category "Clothing companies of Russia" The following 5 pages are in this category, out of 5 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . B Bolshevichka (/wiki/Bolshevichka) O OGGI (/wiki/OGGI) S Sinar (clothing) (/wiki/Sinar_(clothing)) T Tver Garment Factory (/wiki/Tver_Garment_Factory) V Volchok (clothing) (/wiki/Volchok_(clothing)) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Clothing_companies_of_Russia&oldid=1174755679 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Clothing_companies_of_Russia&oldid=1174755679) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Clothing companies by country (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_by_country) Design companies of Russia (/wiki/Category:Design_companies_of_Russia) Companies of Russia by industry (/wiki/Category:Companies_of_Russia_by_industry) Russian fashion (/wiki/Category:Russian_fashion)
Biography portal (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Poland portal (/wiki/Portal:Poland) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐rxvz2 Cached time: 20240714164016 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.072 seconds Real time usage: 0.093 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 21/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 1496/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 3/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 1041/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.043/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 726138/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 71.782 1 Template:Portal 100.00% 71.782 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:54395261-0!canonical and timestamp 20240714164016 and revision id 787601053. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Pages in category "Polish male models" The following 5 pages are in this category, out of 5 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . J Rafał Jonkisz (/wiki/Rafa%C5%82_Jonkisz) K Przemysław Krompiec (/wiki/Przemys%C5%82aw_Krompiec) Jakub Kucner (/wiki/Jakub_Kucner) M Rafał Maślak (/wiki/Rafa%C5%82_Ma%C5%9Blak) N Vaslav Nijinsky (/wiki/Vaslav_Nijinsky) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Polish_male_models&oldid=787601053 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Polish_male_models&oldid=787601053) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Male models by nationality (/wiki/Category:Male_models_by_nationality) Polish men by occupation (/wiki/Category:Polish_men_by_occupation) Polish models (/wiki/Category:Polish_models)
This file does not require a rating on Wikipedia's content assessment (/wiki/Wikipedia:Content_assessment) scale. It is of interest to the following WikiProjects (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject) : Fashion (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Fashion) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) This file is within the scope of WikiProject Fashion (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Fashion) , a collaborative effort to improve the coverage of Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) on Wikipedia. If you would like to participate, please visit the project page, where you can join the discussion (/wiki/Wikipedia_talk:WikiProject_Fashion) and see a list of open tasks. Fashion Wikipedia:WikiProject Fashion Template:WikiProject Fashion fashion articles Korea (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Korea) This file is within the scope of WikiProject Korea (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Korea) , a collaborative effort to build and improve articles related to Korea (/wiki/Korea) . All interested editors are invited to join the project (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Korea/Participants) and contribute to the discussion (/wiki/Wikipedia_talk:WikiProject_Korea) . For instructions on how use this banner, please refer to the documentation (/wiki/Template:WikiProject_Korea/doc) . Korea Wikipedia:WikiProject Korea Template:WikiProject Korea Korea-related articles NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.codfw.main‐557d6f8488‐2db4c Cached time: 20240713085345 Cache expiry: 864000 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] DiscussionTools time usage: 0.006 seconds CPU time usage: 0.158 seconds Real time usage: 0.224 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 555/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 14597/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 11/100 Expensive parser function count: 15/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 11256/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.118/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 1576130/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 197.611 1 Template:WikiProject_banner_shell 100.00% 197.611 1 -total 61.65% 121.826 1 Template:WikiProject_Fashion 10.11% 19.988 1 Template:WikiProject_Korea 2.18% 4.302 2 Template:Pagetype 1.10% 2.179 6 Template:Yesno Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:68980727-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713085345 and revision id 1231550201. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File_talk:Hanbok_(female_and_male).jpg&oldid=1231550201 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=File_talk:Hanbok_(female_and_male).jpg&oldid=1231550201) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : File-Class fashion articles (/wiki/Category:File-Class_fashion_articles) NA-importance fashion articles (/wiki/Category:NA-importance_fashion_articles) File-Class Korea-related articles (/wiki/Category:File-Class_Korea-related_articles) NA-importance Korea-related articles (/wiki/Category:NA-importance_Korea-related_articles) WikiProject Korea articles (/wiki/Category:WikiProject_Korea_articles)
(Redirected from Omega Speedmaster Reduced (/w/index.php?title=Omega_Speedmaster_Reduced&redirect=no) ) Chronograph wristwatch, worn by astronauts Omega Manufacturer Omega (/wiki/Omega_SA) Also called Moon watch Introduced 1957 Movement Omega caliber 321, 861, 1861, 3861, others Omega Speedmaster is a line of chronograph (/wiki/Chronograph) wristwatches (/wiki/Watch) produced by Omega SA (/wiki/Omega_SA) . While chronographs (/wiki/Chronograph) have existed since the late 1800s, Omega first introduced this line of chronographs in 1957. Since then, many different chronograph movements (/wiki/Movement_(clockwork)) have been marketed under the Speedmaster name. Astronaut Walter Schirra (/wiki/Wally_Schirra) was the first person to wear one in space in 1962 during his Mercury-Atlas 8 (/wiki/Mercury-Atlas_8) mission. [1] (#cite_note-1) The manual winding Speedmaster Professional or "Moonwatch" is the best-known and longest-produced; it was worn during the first American spacewalk (/wiki/Extravehicular_activity) as part of NASA (/wiki/NASA) 's Gemini 4 (/wiki/Gemini_4) mission, and was the first watch worn by an astronaut walking on the Moon during the Apollo 11 (/wiki/Apollo_11) mission. [2] (#cite_note-NAWCC-2) [3] (#cite_note-Aldrin,_Magnificent-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) The Speedmaster Professional remains one of several watches qualified by NASA for spaceflight, and is still the only one so qualified for EVA (/wiki/Extravehicular_activity) . [5] (#cite_note-Omega,_Speedmaster_History-5) The Speedmaster line also includes other models, including analog (/wiki/Clock#Analog) - digital (/wiki/Digital_clock) and automatic mechanical (/wiki/Automatic_watch) watches. [6] (#cite_note-Omega,_Speedmaster-6) [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERichon2007616,_638–39-7) Early development [ edit ] Omega cal. 321 movement The Speedmaster was not originally designed for space exploration. Instead, it was introduced in 1957 as a sport and racing chronograph following on from the early chronographs of the 1920s and 1930s, including the Omega 28.9 chronograph (/wiki/Omega_28.9_chronograph) , which was Omega's first small wrist chronograph, complementing Omega's position as the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games (/wiki/Olympic_Games) . [8] (#cite_note-AJTT_596-602-8) [9] (#cite_note-Omega_Lifetime-9) The first Speedmaster model, the reference CK 2915, was powered by the Omega Calibre 321 movement. This movement was developed in 1946 by Albert Piguet of Lemania (/wiki/Lemania) , which had been acquired in 1932 by Omega's parent company, Société Suisse pour l'Industrie Horlogère (/wiki/Soci%C3%A9t%C3%A9_Suisse_pour_l%27Industrie_Horlog%C3%A8re) , (SSIH). The "Speedmaster" name was coined from the model's novel tachymeter (/wiki/Tachymeter_(watch)) scale bezel (in brushed stainless steel (/wiki/Stainless_steel) ) and by the convention set by prior Omega brands Seamaster (/wiki/Omega_Seamaster) and Railmaster. [8] (#cite_note-AJTT_596-602-8) The model established the series's hallmark 12-hour, triple-register chronograph layout, domed Plexiglas (/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate)) crystal (named Hésalite), and simple, high-contrast index markers; but, unlike most subsequent Speedmaster models, it used Omega's broad arrow hand set. In 1959, a second version, CK 2998, was released with a black aluminum (/wiki/Aluminium) base 1000 bezel and later in 2998-2, tachymeter 500 bezel and alpha hands. This was again updated in 1963 by references ST 105.002, which kept the alpha hands and then less than one year later ST 105.003 with straight baton hands and ST 105.012, the first Speedmaster with the "Professional" appellation on the dial, with an asymmetrical case to protect the chronograph pushers and crown. All of the early Speedmasters used the same Calibre 321 movement, which was only replaced in 1968/1969 with the introduction of the Calibre 861 movement, used in the "Moon watch". The watches used for Apollo 11's mission were the 1967 "pre-Moon" 321 versions. [ citation needed ] Pilots [ edit ] The Speedmaster watches worn by astronauts Walter Schirra (/wiki/Walter_Schirra) (Mercury Sigma 7 (/wiki/Mercury-Atlas_8) mission, 1962), Richard F. Gordon, Jr. (/wiki/Richard_F._Gordon,_Jr.) ( Apollo 12 (/wiki/Apollo_12) , 1969) and Thomas P. Stafford (/wiki/Thomas_P._Stafford) ( Gemini 6 (/wiki/Gemini_6) , 1965) Ed White (/wiki/Ed_White_(astronaut)) wearing an Omega Speedmaster on EVA during Gemini 4 (/wiki/Gemini_4) Chronographs (/wiki/Chronographs) were first developed for use in artillery for battle, but soon came to be indispensable for use in high performance machinery, specifically by pilots, but later also by race car drivers. [10] (#cite_note-Doggett-10) [ page needed ] [11] (#cite_note-Hood-11) [ page needed ] [12] (#cite_note-Cowan-12) [ page needed ] [13] (#cite_note-Spencer-13) Submariners, who also relied heavily on split second timing for what was essentially blind travel, were known for the use of chronographs. The ability to time, and therefore calibrate, fuel consumption, trajectory and other variables allowed for both more efficient travel as well as better pilots and race car drivers. When President Eisenhower (/wiki/Eisenhower) decreed that test pilots (/wiki/Test_pilots) would be the only permissible option for Project Mercury (/wiki/Project_Mercury) , the inclusion of a chronograph of some sort was virtually assured. [14] (#cite_note-14) Use in space [ edit ] Qualification tests [ edit ] Three years before the Speedmaster's official qualification for space flight, astronaut Wally Schirra (/wiki/Wally_Schirra) took his personal CK 2998 aboard Mercury-Atlas 8 (/wiki/Mercury-Atlas_8) (Sigma 7) on October 3, 1962. [15] (#cite_note-NASA,_ALSJ_Omega-15) That same year, according to an apocryphal anecdote repeated by Omega press materials and trade publications, a number of commercial chronograph wristwatches were furtively purchased from Corrigan's, a Houston jeweler, to evaluate their use for the Gemini and Apollo Programs. [8] (#cite_note-AJTT_596-602-8) [15] (#cite_note-NASA,_ALSJ_Omega-15) [16] (#cite_note-Omega-16) James Ragan, a former NASA engineer responsible for Apollo flight hardware testing, contradicted this story, calling it a "complete invention". Instead, bids were officially solicited of several brands already familiar to the pilots who were joining the growing astronaut corps. Brands under official consideration included Breitling (/wiki/Breitling_SA) , Rolex (/wiki/Rolex) , and Omega, as well as others that produced mechanical chronographs. [17] (#cite_note-Omega:_Ragan-17) [18] (#cite_note-WatchTime-2009-06-18) Hamilton (/wiki/Hamilton_Watch_Company) submitted a pocket watch and was disqualified from consideration, leaving three contenders: Rolex (/wiki/Rolex) , Longines (/wiki/Longines) - Wittnauer (/wiki/Wittnauer) , and Omega. These watches were all subjected to tests under extreme conditions: High temperature: 48 hours at 160 °F (71 °C) followed by 30 minutes at 200 °F (93 °C) Low temperature: Four hours at 0 °F (−18 °C) Temperature cycling in near-vacuum: Fifteen cycles of heating to 160 °F (71 °C) for 45 minutes, followed by cooling to 0 °F (−18 °C) for 45 minutes at 10 −6 atm Humidity: 250 hours at temperatures between 68 °F (20 °C) and 160 °F (71 °C) at relative humidity of 95% Oxygen environment: 100% oxygen at 0.35 atm and 71 °C for 48 hours Shock: Six 11 ms 40 g (/wiki/Standard_gravity) shocks from different directions Linear acceleration: from 1 to 7.25 g within 333 seconds Low pressure: 90 minutes at 10 −6 atm at 160 °F (71 °C), followed by 30 minutes at 200 °F (93 °C) High pressure: 1.6 atm for one hour Vibration: three cycles of 30 minutes vibration varying from 5 to 2000 Hz with minimum 8.8 g impulse Acoustic noise: 30 minutes at 130 dB from 40 to 10,000 Hz [8] (#cite_note-AJTT_596-602-8) [16] (#cite_note-Omega-16) All chronographs tested were mechanical hand-wound models. Neither the first automatic (/wiki/Automatic_movement) chronograph nor the first quartz watch (/wiki/Quartz_watch) would be available until 1969, well after the space program was underway. The evaluation concluded in March 1965 with the selection of the Speedmaster, which survived the tests while remaining largely within 5 seconds per day rate. [8] (#cite_note-AJTT_596-602-8) [15] (#cite_note-NASA,_ALSJ_Omega-15) [17] (#cite_note-Omega:_Ragan-17) [19] (#cite_note-19) Gemini program [ edit ] Gus Grissom (/wiki/Gus_Grissom) and John Young (/wiki/John_Young_(astronaut)) wore the first officially qualified Speedmasters on Gemini 3 on 23 March 1965. In June of that year, Ed White (/wiki/Ed_White_(astronaut)) made the first American space walk (/wiki/Extra-vehicular_activity) during Gemini 4 (/wiki/Gemini_4) with a Speedmaster 105.003 strapped to the outside of the left-side sleeve of his G4C space suit (/wiki/Gemini_space_suit) . [15] (#cite_note-NASA,_ALSJ_Omega-15) In order to accommodate the space suit, the watch was attached via a long nylon (/wiki/Nylon) strap secured with Velcro (/wiki/Velcro) . When worn on the wrist, the strap could be wound around several times to shorten its length. [15] (#cite_note-NASA,_ALSJ_Omega-15) According to Omega, the company was surprised to learn of the Speedmaster’s role upon seeing a photograph of the EVA; however, ordering forms sent by NASA's Gemini 4 Flight Support Procurement Office to Omega's American agents in 1964 suggest that this anecdote may be exaggerated. [8] (#cite_note-AJTT_596-602-8) These images would be widely used in Omega marketing materials from 1965 to 1967, establishing the popular connection between the Speedmaster and space exploration. [8] (#cite_note-AJTT_596-602-8) [20] (#cite_note-Omega,_Advertisement-20) Speedmasters were issued to all subsequent Gemini crews until the end of the program in 1966. Buzz Aldrin wearing an Omega Speedmaster during Apollo 11 Apollo program [ edit ] 1967 ref. 145.012 Speedmaster In 1966, Speedmaster reference 105.012 was updated to reference 145.012. These two models would be the two Speedmaster references known to have been worn on the Moon by Apollo astronauts, the original "Moon watches." [15] (#cite_note-NASA,_ALSJ_Omega-15) Speedmasters were used throughout the early crewed Apollo program, and reached the Moon with Apollo 11 (/wiki/Apollo_11) . Ironically, these and prior models are informally known as "pre-Moon" Speedmasters, since their manufacture predate the Moon landings and lack the inscription subsequent models carry: "The First Watch Worn on the Moon". Although Apollo 11 commander Neil Armstrong (/wiki/Neil_Armstrong) was first to set foot on the Moon, he left his 105.012 Speedmaster inside the lunar module (/wiki/Lunar_module) as a backup, because the LM's electronic timer had malfunctioned. [21] (#cite_note-Aldrin,_Return-21) Buzz Aldrin (/wiki/Buzz_Aldrin) elected to wear his, and so his Speedmaster became the first watch to be worn on the Moon. Later, he wrote of his decision: It was optional to wear while we were walking on the surface of the Moon ... few things are less necessary when walking around on the Moon than knowing what time it is in Houston, Texas. Nonetheless, being a watch guy, I decided to strap the Speedmaster onto my right wrist around the outside of my bulky spacesuit. [21] (#cite_note-Aldrin,_Return-21) Jack Swigert with Speedmaster, prior to Apollo 13 (/wiki/Apollo_13) launch (8 April 1970) Aldrin's Speedmaster was lost during shipping when he sent it to the Smithsonian Institution (/wiki/Smithsonian_Institution) , its reference number being ST105.012, [22] (#cite_note-22) although it is sometimes erroneously reported as a 145.012. To commemorate the success of the Apollo 11 mission, then-president Richard Nixon (/wiki/Richard_Nixon) was presented with a gold Omega Speedmaster ref. BA 145.022 as gift. These were the first ever gold Omega Speedmasters, and only 1,014 of these Omega Speedmasters were ever made. Nixon's was engraved: “RICHARD M. NIXON”, “to mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on time”, and “PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES”. He famously refused the gift citing its high value. [23] (#cite_note-23) In 1970, after Apollo 13 (/wiki/Apollo_13) was crippled by the rupture of a service module (/wiki/Apollo_service_module) oxygen tank, Jack Swigert (/wiki/Jack_Swigert) 's Speedmaster was used to time the critical 14-second burn [24] (#cite_note-24) using the lunar module's descent propulsion system (/wiki/Descent_propulsion_system) , which allowed for the crew's safe return. [25] (#cite_note-Apollo_13_report-25) [26] (#cite_note-Woodfill,_Apollo_13-26) In recognition of this, Omega was awarded the Snoopy Award (/wiki/Silver_Snoopy_Award) by the Apollo 13 astronauts for "dedication, professionalism, and outstanding contributions in support of the first United States Manned Lunar Landing Project." [27] (#cite_note-Omega_Press_Kit:_Snoopy-27) [28] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERichon2007607-28) In 1971, Apollo 15 (/wiki/Apollo_15) commander Dave Scott (/wiki/David_Scott) 's Speedmaster lost its Plexiglas (/wiki/Plexiglas) crystal during EVA-2. For EVA-3, the final lunar surface EVA, he wore a Bulova (/wiki/Bulova) Chronograph (model number 88510/01 with velcro-strap part number SEB12100030-202 [29] (#cite_note-29) ) that was not part of the normal mission equipment and that he had agreed to evaluate for the company at the request of a friend. [30] (#cite_note-ALSJ_Apollo_15-30) [31] (#cite_note-NASA_News_Release_1972-31) Because of the commercial interests involved and the revelation of the Apollo 15 postage stamp incident (/wiki/Apollo_15_postage_stamp_incident) , NASA withheld Bulova's name for years afterward. There is also evidence that Rolex GMTs (/wiki/Rolex_GMT) were used as personal backup watches on the Apollo 13 & 14 missions. [32] (#cite_note-Apollo_14_Rolex_GMT-32) In addition to issued crew watches, Apollo 17 (/wiki/Apollo_17) carried an additional Speedmaster to lunar orbit as part of the heat flow and convection experiment conducted by Command Module Pilot (/wiki/Command_Module_Pilot) Ronald Evans (/wiki/Ronald_Evans_(astronaut)) . [33] (#cite_note-HFC_Experiment-33) [34] (#cite_note-HFC_Memo-34) This watch was sold for $23,000 at a Heritage (/wiki/Heritage_Auctions) auction in 2009. [35] (#cite_note-Apollo_Speedmaster_auction-35) Later models [ edit ] Omega cal. 1861 movement In 1968, American insurance salesman Ralph Plaisted (/wiki/Ralph_Plaisted) and three companions were the first confirmed expedition to reach the North Pole (/wiki/North_Pole) on snowmobiles (/wiki/Snowmobiles) . The team successfully used the same reference 145.012 Omega Speedmasters as the Apollo program along with sextants (/wiki/Sextants) for navigation. [36] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERichon2007603-36) Modern Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. 3570.50.00 Also in 1968, Omega transitioned the caliber (/wiki/Caliber_(horology)) 321 movement to the new caliber 861, also designed by Albert Piguet, with the introduction of the reference 145.022 Speedmaster. The 861 was very similar to the 321, but replaced its column wheel (/w/index.php?title=Column_wheel&action=edit&redlink=1) switching mechanism with a cam (/wiki/Cam_(mechanism)) and increased the beat rate from 18,000 to 21,600 vibrations per hour. Most Speedmaster Professional watches from 1968 to the present have used variants of this movement, including the modern rhodium-plated caliber 1861 and decorated exhibition calibers 863 and 1863. A standard Speedmaster Professional model with Plexiglas crystal, solid caseback with anti-vibration and anti-magnetic dust cover, tachymeter scale, without date or day complications, and powered by a caliber 861-based movement has been continuously produced since. The tritium (/wiki/Tritium) -powered phosphorescent (/wiki/Phosphorescent) lume (/wiki/Lume) on the hands and index markers of the original watches were replaced at the end of the 1990s with non-radioactive pigments, but the fundamental design, dimensions, and mechanism of these watches have remained unchanged. In this form, the basic Speedmaster line has remained flight-qualified for NASA space missions and EVAs, after re-evaluation by NASA in 1972 and for use in the Space Shuttle program in 1978. [37] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERichon2007607,_614-37) The current such model is reference 311.30.42.30.01.005 (since 2014). [38] (#cite_note-38) Numbered (not limited) edition Speedmaster with exhibition caseback showing a decorated chronograph cal. 864 Omega has produced a large number of commemorative and limited edition variants of the basic "Moon watch" design, celebrating important anniversaries and events, emblazoned with the different patches for the space missions it was issued for, or evoking its motor sport roots with various racing patterns. It has also released many models made with various precious metals, jewels, and alternative dial colors for the luxury market. [39] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERichon2007598–670-39) Over the years, Omega has also sought to improve functional aspects of the basic Speedmaster Professional. In 1969, it produced the Speedmaster Professional Mk II, with shrouded lugs and a flat, anti-reflective mineral glass crystal. In 1970, Omega launched the Alaska Project under Pierre Chopard, which changed the dial of the original Speedmaster Professional from black to white and created a removable anodized aluminum housing to shield the watch from a wider range of temperatures. [40] (#cite_note-Hodinkee_Alaska_Project_Interview-40) In 1971 and 1973, Omega turned to automatic mechanisms on the Speedmaster Automatic MkIII and MkIV models alongside Speedsonic Electronic Chronometer Chronograph (marketing as a Speedmaster) other non-Speedmaster Chronographs such as the Omega Bullhead (/wiki/Omega_Bullhead) . However, none of these proved as popular or long-lasting as the basic Speedmaster Professional "Moon watch". A variety of other types of watches have used the Speedmaster brand, including many different automatic day and day-date models, the tuning fork movement Speedsonic line, and the digital LCD Speedmaster Quartz (the Speedsonic and LCD Speedmaster where also prototyped in ten examples each under the Alaska project but not taken up by NASA). The digital-analog Speedmaster X-33 was produced in 1998; it was qualified for space missions by NASA and flown on the Mir (/wiki/Mir) space station and Space Shuttle Columbia (/wiki/Space_Shuttle_Columbia) during STS-90 (/wiki/STS-90) later that year. In September 2019, Omega introduced a reissue of the calibre 321. The new calibre 321 was designed to replicate the same mechanism and design as the original 321. The new calibre was manufactured with modern metals and computer-aided manufacturing in a designated workshop. Most recently, in January 2021, Omega announced it would update the standard-production Speedmaster Professional with a new movement and a subtle design refresh, including a step dial and dot-over-90 bezel. Calibre 1861 has been officially discontinued, replaced with calibre 3861, featuring a co-axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification. [41] (#cite_note-41) Omega Speedmaster Automatic [ edit ] Omega Speedmaster Automatic 3510.50 Automatic Chronograph Omega Speedmaster Automatic (informally known as the Speedmaster Reduced) is a line of chronograph (/wiki/Chronograph) wristwatches (/wiki/Watch) based on the Omega Speedmaster and produced by Omega SA (/wiki/Omega_SA) . The Speedmaster Reduced was first introduced in 1988 as a smaller, cheaper version of the Omega Speedmaster. [42] (#cite_note-42) With a case that measures 39mm in diameter it is smaller than its big brother the Speedmaster Professional which has a case size of 42mm. The Speedmaster Reduced went out of production in 2009. [43] (#cite_note-43) Starting with a base movement of the Omega 3220, a Dubois Depraz chronograph module is mounted on top. Automatic Racing models [ edit ] The Speedmaster has also seen iterations within motor racing, in particular the Automatic (/wiki/Automatic_movement) 'Racing' models. Originally this differ from the Professional models having a slightly smaller 38mm and 40mm [44] (#cite_note-44) cases and an automatic movement, as opposed to the professionals 42mm case and manual wound movement. Michael Schumacher (/wiki/Michael_Schumacher) was one of the brand's key representatives during the early 2000s and had his own dedicated line of the 38mm Racing models. The current line of Speedmaster Racing models have been increased to a larger 44.25-mm case utilizing the automatic Omega 9900 Calibre. [45] (#cite_note-45) Notable wearers [ edit ] Joe Biden (/wiki/Joe_Biden) , 46th President of the United States of America (/wiki/President_of_the_United_States_of_America) [46] (#cite_note-46) Wally Schirra (/wiki/Wally_Schirra) , one of the first Americans in space; also the first astronaut to wear a Speedmaster on a space mission in 1962 Neil Armstrong (/wiki/Neil_Armstrong) , first man on the Moon as an Apollo 11 (/wiki/Apollo_11) astronaut [47] (#cite_note-47) Buzz Aldrin (/wiki/Buzz_Aldrin) , second man on the Moon as an Apollo 11 (/wiki/Apollo_11) astronaut [48] (#cite_note-48) Ed White (/wiki/Ed_White_(astronaut)) , first American to walk in space as a Gemini 4 (/wiki/Gemini_4) astronaut; later perished in the ill-fated Apollo 1 (/wiki/Apollo_1) mission [49] (#cite_note-49) Tom Hanks (/wiki/Tom_Hanks) , actor; famously wore a Speedmaster Professional while portraying Jim Lovell (/wiki/Jim_Lovell) in Apollo 13 (/wiki/Apollo_13_(film)) [50] (#cite_note-monochrome-watches.com-50) Ron Howard (/wiki/Ron_Howard) , director [51] (#cite_note-swisswatchexpo.com-51) Ralph Ellison (/wiki/Ralph_Ellison) , author of Invisible Man (/wiki/Invisible_Man) [52] (#cite_note-52) Daniel Craig (/wiki/Daniel_Craig) , actor [50] (#cite_note-monochrome-watches.com-50) George Clooney (/wiki/George_Clooney) , actor [51] (#cite_note-swisswatchexpo.com-51) Steve Carell (/wiki/Steve_Carell) , actor [50] (#cite_note-monochrome-watches.com-50) Ryan Reynolds (/wiki/Ryan_Reynolds) , actor [50] (#cite_note-monochrome-watches.com-50) Eddie Redmayne (/wiki/Eddie_Redmayne) , actor [53] (#cite_note-53) James Corden (/wiki/James_Corden) , actor and late night talk show host [50] (#cite_note-monochrome-watches.com-50) Ed O'Neill (/wiki/Ed_O%27Neill) , actor [54] (#cite_note-fratellowatches.com-54) Dennis Quaid (/wiki/Dennis_Quaid) , actor [50] (#cite_note-monochrome-watches.com-50) Richard Hammond (/wiki/Richard_Hammond) , presenter from Top Gear and The Grand Tour (/wiki/The_Grand_Tour) [54] (#cite_note-fratellowatches.com-54) Adam Savage (/wiki/Adam_Savage) , presenter on the American TV series MythBusters (/wiki/MythBusters) [50] (#cite_note-monochrome-watches.com-50) Rory McIlroy (/wiki/Rory_McIlroy) , professional golfer [54] (#cite_note-fratellowatches.com-54) Willem-Alexander, King of the Netherlands (/wiki/Willem-Alexander,_King_of_the_Netherlands) [54] (#cite_note-fratellowatches.com-54) Mark Knopfler (/wiki/Mark_Knopfler) , musician [50] (#cite_note-monochrome-watches.com-50) Antoni Porowski (/wiki/Antoni_Porowski) , presenter of Queer Eye (/wiki/Queer_Eye_(2018_TV_series)) [55] (#cite_note-55) Jeff Bezos (/wiki/Jeff_Bezos) , Founder of Amazon [56] (#cite_note-56) Gallery [ edit ] Speedmaster worn over a Gemini space suit Wally Schirra wears his Speedmaster on a pre-flight watchband (Apollo 7). Buzz Aldrin wearing an Omega Speedmaster on the Moon (Apollo 11) Alan Bean wearing an Omega Speedmaster (Apollo 12) The prime crew of Apollo 14 wearing Speedmasters prior to launch Speedmaster Racing, Michael Schumacher (/wiki/Michael_Schumacher) Edition of 2000, with his signature on the backside See also [ edit ] Science and technology in Switzerland (/wiki/Science_and_technology_in_Switzerland) Swiss Space Office (/wiki/Swiss_Space_Office) COSC (/wiki/COSC) Dive watch (/wiki/Dive_watch) Omega Seamaster (/wiki/Omega_Seamaster) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Omega designs new timepiece to mark 50 years of watches in space (http://www.collectspace.com/news/news-030912a.html) Collect Space, 2012-03-09. ^ (#cite_ref-NAWCC_2-0) NELSON, A. A. (1993). "The Moon watch: a history of the Omega Speedmaster Professional". Bulletin of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors . 35 (282): 33–38. ^ (#cite_ref-Aldrin,_Magnificent_3-0) Aldrin, Buzz (/wiki/Buzz_Aldrin) (2010). Magnificent Desolation . pp. 260–61. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-307-46346-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) What Does the MoonSwatch Mean for the Moonwatch’s Legacy? (https://montrespubliques.com/new-1minute-reads/what-does-the-moonswatch-mean-for-the-moonwatchs-legacy) Montres Publiques ^ (#cite_ref-Omega,_Speedmaster_History_5-0) Heaton, Jason (16 August 2019). "A Watch Made for Space but Ready for Anything" (https://www.outsideonline.com/2400931/omega-speedmaster-watch-nasa) . ^ (#cite_ref-Omega,_Speedmaster_6-0) "Omega Watches: Speedmaster" (http://www.omegawatches.com/gents/speedmaster) . Omega S.A . Retrieved 2011-02-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERichon2007616,_638–39_7-0) Richon 2007 (#CITEREFRichon2007) , pp. 616, 638–39. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Richon 2007 (#CITEREFRichon2007) , pp. 596–602 ^ (#cite_ref-Omega_Lifetime_9-0) Kessler, Ken (2009). "Space Age". Omega Lifetime . 4 : 30–36. ^ (#cite_ref-Doggett_10-0) Doggett, Rachel; Jaskot, Susan; Rand, Robert; Bedini, Silvio A; Quinones, Ricardo J (1986), Time: the Greatest Innovator: Timekeeping and Time Consciousness in Early Modern Europe , Washington, D.C. (/wiki/Washington,_D.C.) : Folger Shakespeare Library (/wiki/Folger_Shakespeare_Library) . ^ (#cite_ref-Hood_11-0) Hood, Peter (1969), How Time Is Measured , London: Oxford UP . ^ (#cite_ref-Cowan_12-0) Cowan, Harrison J (1958), Time and Its Measurement; from the Stone Age to the Nuclear Age , Cleveland: World Pub., Bibcode (/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)) : 1958tmfs.book.....C (https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1958tmfs.book.....C) . ^ (#cite_ref-Spencer_13-0) Chronographs , IT (/wiki/Italy) : Spencer Emergency Solutions, archived from the original (http://www.spencer.it/eng/products/spot/chronographs) on 16 March 2012 , retrieved 25 March 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Shapira, J.A. "The Chronograph – Watch Complications Explained" (http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/chronograph-explained/) . Gentlemans’ Gazette . Retrieved 2 September 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f "Apollo Lunar Surface Journal: Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronographs" (http://www.hq.nasa.gov/alsj/omega.html) . NASA . Retrieved 2011-02-09 . ^ Jump up to: a b "How the Omega Speedmaster became the Moonwatch" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100414044628/http://www.omegawatches.com/press/press-kit-text/1122) (press release). Omega. 6 April 2009. Archived from the original (http://www.omegawatches.com/press/press-kit-text/1122) on 14 April 2010 . Retrieved 9 May 2010 . ^ Jump up to: a b "James H. Ragan: NASA's man behind the MoonWatch" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100414044206/http://www.omegawatches.com/press/press-kit-text/1161) (press release). Omega. 21 July 2009. Archived from the original (http://www.omegawatches.com/press/press-kit-text/1161) on 14 April 2010 . Retrieved 9 April 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-WatchTime-2009-06_18-0) Linz & Ragan 2009 (#CITEREFLinzRagan2009) , pp. 124–25: 'Once and for all: it never happened that way. That story’s a complete invention.' ^ (#cite_ref-19) Linz & Ragan 2009 (#CITEREFLinzRagan2009) , pp. 124–25: ’We conducted a number of rigorous tests and at the end of them all only Omega was left standing. Rolex failed primarily on account of the humidity test. Its watch’s hands became bent at high temperatures and got stuck. The crystal of the Longines watch got loose several times and the movement stopped working, too. The Speedmaster passed all the laboratory tests and exhibited the best reliability.’ ^ (#cite_ref-Omega,_Advertisement_20-0) "Omega Watches: Advertisement" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110101172824/http://www.omegawatches.com/spirit/hall-of-fame/advertisement) . Hall of fame . Omega. Archived from the original (http://www.omegawatches.com/spirit/hall-of-fame/advertisement) on 2011-01-01 . Retrieved 2011-02-09 . ^ Jump up to: a b Aldrin, Buzz (/wiki/Buzz_Aldrin) (1973). Return To Earth . Random House. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-394-48832-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) According to Omega Museum, as reported in How Omega Speedmaster became MoonWatch , Monochrome watches, 25 September 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "WATERGATE AND WATCHES: A LOOK AT RICHARD NIXON'S PRESIDENTIAL WATCHES." Montres Publiques, https://montrespubliques.com/new-1minute-reads/watergate-and-watches-a-look-at-richard-nixons-presidential-watches (https://montrespubliques.com/new-1minute-reads/watergate-and-watches-a-look-at-richard-nixons-presidential-watches) ^ (#cite_ref-24) NTRS (PDF) , Nasa, January 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-Apollo_13_report_25-0) Mission Operations Report: Apollo 13 (PDF) (NASA-MSC Internal Report), NASA, 1970-04-28, pp. 10–2 ^ (#cite_ref-Woodfill,_Apollo_13_26-0) Woodfill, Jerry (2010-04-16). "13 Things That Saved Apollo 13, Part 6: Navigating By the Earth's Terminator" (http://www.universetoday.com/62763/13-things-that-saved-apollo-13-part-6-navigating-by-earths-terminator/) . Universe Today . Retrieved 2011-02-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-Omega_Press_Kit:_Snoopy_27-0) "Omega and Snoopy: Two Great Names in the History of Space Exploration" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110715000133/http://www.omegawatches.com/press/press-kit-text/267) . Omega. 2003-04-03. Archived from the original (http://www.omegawatches.com/press/press-kit-text/267) on 2011-07-15 . Retrieved 2011-02-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERichon2007607_28-0) Richon 2007 (#CITEREFRichon2007) , p. 607. ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Omega velcro blueprints" (http://www.chronomaddox.com/omega/archives/Velcro_blueprints/band_specs_current.jpg) (JPEG) . Chrono Maddox . ^ (#cite_ref-ALSJ_Apollo_15_30-0) "Apollo 15 Lunar Surface Journal: Preparations for EVA-2" (http://www.history.nasa.gov/alsj/a15/a15.eva2prep.html) . NASA. 2008-11-22 . Retrieved 2011-02-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-NASA_News_Release_1972_31-0) Mission Operations Report: Apollo 13 (news release), NASA, 1972-09-15, 72-189 ^ (#cite_ref-Apollo_14_Rolex_GMT_32-0) "Apollo 14 Rolex GMT" (http://rolexblog.blogspot.co.uk/2008/06/apollo-14-rolex-story.html) . UK (/wiki/United_Kingdom) : Rolex blog. Jun 2008 . Retrieved 2014-12-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-HFC_Experiment_33-0) "Experiment: Heat Flow and Convection" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110501012837/http://ares.jsc.nasa.gov/HumanExplore/Exploration/EXlibrary/docs/ApolloCat/Part2/HFEA17.htm) . NASA. Archived from the original (http://ares.jsc.nasa.gov/HumanExplore/Exploration/EXlibrary/docs/ApolloCat/Part2/HFEA17.HTM) on 2011-05-01 . Retrieved 2011-02-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-HFC_Memo_34-0) Apollo 17 Heat Flow and Convection Experiments (PDF) (Technical Memorandum), NASA, 1973-07-16, TM-X 64772 ^ (#cite_ref-Apollo_Speedmaster_auction_35-0) "Apollo 17 Flown Omega Stainless Steel Speedmaster Professional Watch" (https://historical.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=6022&Lot_No=41028) . Heritage Auctions . Retrieved 2011-02-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERichon2007603_36-0) Richon 2007 (#CITEREFRichon2007) , p. 603. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERichon2007607,_614_37-0) Richon 2007 (#CITEREFRichon2007) , pp. 607, 614. ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Speedmaster Moon Watch Profession" (http://www.omegawatches.com/collection/speedmaster/moonwatch/professional/31130423001005) , Collection , Omega . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTERichon2007598–670_39-0) Richon 2007 (#CITEREFRichon2007) , pp. 598–670. ^ (#cite_ref-Hodinkee_Alaska_Project_Interview_40-0) "An Interview with Pierre Chopard, Leader of the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110131163424/http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2011/1/27/exclusive-an-interview-with-pierre-chopard-leader-of-the-ome.html) . Hodnikee. 2011-01-27. Archived from the original (http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2011/1/27/exclusive-an-interview-with-pierre-chopard-leader-of-the-ome.html) on 2011-01-31 . Retrieved 2011-02-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Introducing The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 'Master Chronometer' With Co-Axial Caliber 3861" (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-omega-speedmaster-professional-moonwatch-master-chronometer-with-co-axial-caliber-3861) . Hodinkee . Retrieved 6 February 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) "OMEGA Watches: Speedmaster History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110322182825/http://www.omegawatches.com/spirit/pioneering/speedmaster-history) . 2011-03-22. Archived from the original (http://www.omegawatches.com/spirit/pioneering/speedmaster-history) on 2011-03-22 . Retrieved 2019-11-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "What is the Omega Speedmaster Reduced?" (https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/resources/omega-speedmaster-reduced.html) . Bob's Watches . 2019-02-12 . Retrieved 2019-11-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/speedmaster/two-counters/racing/40-mm-collection/product (https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/speedmaster/two-counters/racing/40-mm-collection/product) ^ (#cite_ref-45) https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/speedmaster/two-counters/racing/product (https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/speedmaster/two-counters/racing/product) ^ (#cite_ref-46) "Somehow, Joe Biden is the First-Ever President to Wear This Historic Watch" (https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-5-29-21) . 29 May 2021. ^ (#cite_ref-47) "Chronograph, Armstrong, Apollo 11 | National Air and Space Museum" (https://airandspace.si.edu/collection-objects/chronograph-armstrong-apollo-11/nasm_A19731247000) . ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Omega Speedmaster – a classic watch worn on famous wrists" (https://www.chronext.com/journal/spotted/omega-speedmaster-a-classic-watch-worn-on-famous-wrists) . ^ (#cite_ref-49) "The story of the Speedmaster "Ed White" (https://thewatchcollectorsclub.com/blog/the-story-of-the-speedmaster-ed-white/) " (https://thewatchcollectorsclub.com/blog/the-story-of-the-speedmaster-ed-white/) . 10 June 2022. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h "Spotted - Craig, Knopfler, Hanks - 10 Notable People with Omega Speedmaster" (https://monochrome-watches.com/10-notable-people-celebrities-wearing-the-omega-speedmaster-spotted/) . 15 May 2020. ^ Jump up to: a b "Celebrity Fans of the Omega Speedmaster" (https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/TheWatchClub/2019/06/28/celebrity-fans-of-the-omega-speedmaster/) . 28 June 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-52) "Auctions: A Speedmaster Owned by Literary Giant Ralph Ellison, Coming up at Phillips" (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-speedmaster-owned-by-literary-giant-ralph-ellison-coming-up-at-phillips) . ^ (#cite_ref-53) "Eddie Redmayne Omega Watches" (https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/TheWatchClub/2021/10/18/eddie-redmayne-omega-watches/) . 20 October 2021. ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Some of the Best Speedmaster Ambassadors" (https://www.fratellowatches.com/some-of-the-best-speedmaster-ambassadors/#gref) . 26 March 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-55) "Antoni Porowski on His Omega Obsession, the Next Season of 'Queer Eye' and His Fashion Must-Haves" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/lifestyle/shopping/antoni-porowski-favorite-omega-watches-skincare-fashion-1235020047/) . The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) . 28 September 2021. ^ (#cite_ref-56) "Wrist Check: Jeff Bezos Took a Custom OMEGA Speedmaster to Space" (https://hypebeast.com/2021/7/jeff-bezos-custom-omega-speedmaster-blue-orgin-mission-ns-16-watch/) . 21 July 2021. Bibliography [ edit ] Linz, Alexander; Ragan, James H (June 2009), "How Omega Got to the Moon", Watch Time : 124–25 . Richon, Marco (2007), A Journey Through Time , Omega, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-9700562-2-5 . Grégoire Rossier and Anthony Marquié (2014), Moonwatch Only, 60 years of Omega Speedmasters (http://www.moonwatchonly.com/) External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Omega Speedmaster (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Omega_Speedmaster) . Official website (https://www.omegawatches.com/watches/speedmaster/) History of the Omega Speedmaster , Chrono Maddox , a detailed table of Speedmaster models Iconic Watches: The Omega Speedmaster History , Time & Watches . Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronographs (https://history.nasa.gov/alsj/omega.html) , NASA History page. speedmaster-mission.net (http://www.speedmaster-mission.net/) , by Jean-Michel NASA blueprint SEB12100030 for velcro watchbands (sheet 1 of 2) (http://www.chronomaddox.com/omega/archives/Velcro_blueprints/band_specs_current2.jpg) Material specifications, notes and revisions. NASA blueprint SEB12100030 for velcro watchbands (sheet 2 of 2) (http://www.chronomaddox.com/omega/archives/Velcro_blueprints/band_specs_current.jpg) Assembly diagrams. The Right Stuff: Inside the Omega Speedmaster Professional - Part 1 (http://indepth.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-364252/) , by Jack Forster The Right Stuff: Inside the Omega Speedmaster Professional - Part 2 (http://omega.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-364597/) , by Jack Forster Legendary Watches: The Omega Speedmaster (http://blog.dreamchrono.com/2013/12/omega-speedmaster/) , by Matthew Boston Legend of The Moon Watch: Omega Speedmaster (http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1127-legend-of-the-moon-watch-omega-speedmaster/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20141229025033/http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1127-legend-of-the-moon-watch-omega-speedmaster/) 2014-12-29 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) The truth about the real Armstrong’s and Aldrin’s Speedmaster references and how the Omega Speedmaster became the Moonwatch (http://monochrome-watches.com/exclusive-truth-real-armstrong-aldrin-speedmaster-references-how-omega-speedmaster-became-moonwatch/) by Monochrome-Watches The history of the Omega Speedmaster - Part 1, the early Pre-Moons (http://monochrome-watches.com/omega-speedmaster-history-part-1-early-pre-moons/) by Monochrome-Watches Moonwatch Only (http://www.moonwatchonly.com/) by Grégoire Rossier and Anthony Marquié NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐4qsxt Cached time: 20240720163934 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.702 seconds Real time usage: 0.934 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3863/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 84277/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 4153/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 184297/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.433/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 9661418/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 834.655 1 -total 37.23% 310.713 1 Template:Reflist 13.12% 109.508 29 Template:Cite_web 12.92% 107.864 2 Template:Cite_journal 10.83% 90.382 5 Template:Sfn 10.24% 85.488 4 Template:Fix 8.84% 73.822 1 Template:Short_description 6.29% 52.514 1 Template:Citation_needed 6.26% 52.254 14 Template:Citation 6.23% 52.039 7 Template:Delink Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2927890-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720163934 and revision id 1230161617. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Omega_Speedmaster&oldid=1230161617#Omega_Speedmaster_Automatic (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Omega_Speedmaster&oldid=1230161617#Omega_Speedmaster_Automatic) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Omega watches (/wiki/Category:Omega_watches) Products introduced in 1957 (/wiki/Category:Products_introduced_in_1957) Apollo program hardware (/wiki/Category:Apollo_program_hardware) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from October 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_October_2019) Wikipedia articles needing page number citations from July 2015 (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_articles_needing_page_number_citations_from_July_2015) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata) Official website not in Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Official_website_not_in_Wikidata) Webarchive template wayback links (/wiki/Category:Webarchive_template_wayback_links)
This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Pink_Sparkle) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Pink_Sparkle) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article relies excessively on references (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) to primary sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research#Primary,_secondary_and_tertiary_sources) . Please improve this article by adding secondary or tertiary sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research#Primary,_secondary_and_tertiary_sources) . Find sources: "Pink Sparkle" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Pink+Sparkle%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( December 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) The topic of this article may not meet Wikipedia's notability guidelines for products and services (/wiki/Wikipedia:Notability_(organizations_and_companies)#Products_and_services) . 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Find sources: "Pink Sparkle" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Pink+Sparkle%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Pink+Sparkle%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( August 2022 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article uses bare URLs (/wiki/Wikipedia:Bare_URLs) , which are uninformative and vulnerable to link rot (/wiki/Wikipedia:Link_rot) . Please consider converting them to full citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Citation_styles) to ensure the article remains verifiable (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) and maintains a consistent citation style. Several templates (/wiki/Wikipedia:Template_index/Sources_of_articles#Examples) and tools are available to assist in formatting, such as reFill (https://refill.toolforge.org/ng/result.php?page=Pink_Sparkle&defaults=y) ( documentation (/wiki/Wikipedia:ReFill) ) and Citation bot (https://citations.toolforge.org/process_page.php?edit=automated_tools&slow=1&page=Pink_Sparkle) ( documentation (/wiki/User:Citation_bot) ) . ( August 2022 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Pink Sparkle Fragrance (/wiki/Perfume) by Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) Released 2010 Label Coty, Inc. (/wiki/Coty,_Inc.) Tagline (/wiki/Tagline) "Find your inner sparkle." Predecessor Inverse Website Pink Sparkle Kylie Minogue (http://www.kylieminogueparfums.com/pink-sparkle/) Pink Sparkle is a women's fragrance (/wiki/Fragrance) from Coty, Inc. (/wiki/Coty,_Inc.) , and is the seventh endorsed fragrance by Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) . Pink Sparkle was released in 2010, two months before her eleventh studio album Aphrodite (/wiki/Aphrodite_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) was released. [1] (#cite_note-pink-1) According to Minogue, she wanted an "elegant, feel-good that takes you to a wonderful place of optimism and vitality." [1] (#cite_note-pink-1) The bottle is designed as a champagne bottle, which the bottle top is designed as a corkscrew (/wiki/Corkscrew) . She promoted the fragrance on The Paul O'Grady Show (/wiki/The_Paul_O%27Grady_Show) the same year. In 2011, her ninth fragrance Dazzling Darling was announced, responding back to the Darling range. Minogue stated that out of all her fragrance, she comparing Dazzling Darling to herself, saying its "beautifully feminine and alluring" and that its "very soft and intimate." [2] (#cite_note-2) Information [ edit ] Pink Sparkle was released in 2010. It contains the scents of pink grapefruit (/wiki/Pink_grapefruit) , white peach, lily of the valley (/wiki/Lily_of_the_valley) , tambac jasmine, champagne accord, gardenia (/wiki/Gardenia) , bourbon vanilla, musk (/wiki/Musk) , citrus mint, juicy tomato, and bourbon vetiver. Pink Sparkle POP was released in early November 2011 for a limited period. Design [ edit ] According to the official information, its curvy shape is actually reminiscent of a champagne glass (/wiki/Champagne_glass) . [3] (#cite_note-3) The box has a slow shaded pink, and contains gold sparkles for a "shimmering look". The base of it was inspired by champagne corks (/wiki/Cork_(material)) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Limited CD [ edit ] Pink Sparkle EP (/wiki/Extended_play) by Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) Released July 2010 Genre (/wiki/Music_genre) Dance pop (/wiki/Dance_pop) Label (/wiki/Record_label) Parlophone (/wiki/Parlophone) Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) chronology Aphrodite (/wiki/Aphrodite_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) (2010) Pink Sparkle (2010) 12" Masters – Essential Mixes (/wiki/12%22_Masters_%E2%80%93_Essential_Mixes) (2010) Pink Sparkle is a promotional (/wiki/Promotional_recording) EP (/wiki/Extended_play) by Australian singer Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) . It was given out free at the launch of Minogue's perfume of the same name in several shops in London in July 2010. It features one track from Minogues eleventh studio album Aphrodite (/wiki/Aphrodite_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) , b-side of the single " All the Lovers (/wiki/All_the_Lovers) " and three live tracks recorded in New York and released before on Minogue's live album Live in New York (/wiki/Live_in_New_York_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) . Track listing [ edit ] No. Title Length 1. "Can't Beat the Feeling" 4:10 2. "Go Hard or Go Home" 3:43 3. "Boombox" / " Can't Get You Out of My Head (/wiki/Can%27t_Get_You_Out_of_My_Head) " (Live in New York) 5:03 4. "Speakerphone" (Live in New York) 4:46 5. " I Believe in You (/wiki/I_Believe_in_You_(Kylie_Minogue_song)) " (Live in New York) 3:03 References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Pink Sparkle – Kylie Minogue (http://www.kylieminogueparfums.com/pink-sparkle/) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Dazzling Darling – Kylie Minogue (http://www.kylieminogueparfums.com/dazzling-darling/) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) http://www.kylieminogueparfums.com/pink-sparkle/ (http://www.kylieminogueparfums.com/pink-sparkle/) ^ (#cite_ref-4) http://www.kylieminogueparfums.com/pink-sparkle/design (http://www.kylieminogueparfums.com/pink-sparkle/design) v t e Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) Albums (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue_albums_discography) Singles (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue_singles_discography) Songs (/wiki/List_of_songs_recorded_by_Kylie_Minogue) Concerts (/wiki/List_of_Kylie_Minogue_concert_tours) Videos (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue_videography) Films (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue_filmography) Awards (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Kylie_Minogue) Products (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue_products) Studio albums Kylie (/wiki/Kylie_(album)) Enjoy Yourself (/wiki/Enjoy_Yourself_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Rhythm of Love (/wiki/Rhythm_of_Love_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Let's Get to It (/wiki/Let%27s_Get_to_It) Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue_(album)) Impossible Princess (/wiki/Impossible_Princess) Light Years (/wiki/Light_Years_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Fever (/wiki/Fever_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Body Language (/wiki/Body_Language_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) X (/wiki/X_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Aphrodite (/wiki/Aphrodite_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Kiss Me Once (/wiki/Kiss_Me_Once) Kylie Christmas (/wiki/Kylie_Christmas) Golden (/wiki/Golden_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Disco (/wiki/Disco_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Tension (/wiki/Tension_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Compilation albums Greatest Hits (/wiki/Greatest_Hits_(1992_Kylie_Minogue_album)) (1992) Hits + (/wiki/Hits_%2B) Confide in Me (/wiki/Confide_in_Me_(2001_album)) Greatest Hits (/wiki/Greatest_Hits_(2002_Kylie_Minogue_album)) (2002) Greatest Hits: 87–99 (/wiki/Greatest_Hits:_87%E2%80%9399) Artist Collection (/wiki/Artist_Collection_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Ultimate Kylie (/wiki/Ultimate_Kylie) Confide in Me: The Irresistible Kylie (/wiki/Confide_in_Me:_The_Irresistible_Kylie) Hits (/wiki/Hits_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) The Best of Kylie Minogue (/wiki/The_Best_of_Kylie_Minogue) The Abbey Road Sessions (/wiki/The_Abbey_Road_Sessions_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Step Back in Time: The Definitive Collection (/wiki/Step_Back_in_Time:_The_Definitive_Collection) Remix albums Kylie's Non-Stop History 50+1 (/wiki/Kylie%27s_Non-Stop_History_50%2B1) Greatest Remix Hits (/wiki/Greatest_Remix_Hits_(album_series)) Mixes (/wiki/Mixes_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) Impossible Remixes (/wiki/Impossible_Remixes) Boombox (/wiki/Boombox_(Kylie_Minogue_album)) 12" Masters – Essential Mixes (/wiki/12%22_Masters_%E2%80%93_Essential_Mixes) Live albums Intimate and Live (/wiki/Intimate_and_Live_(album)) KylieFever2002 (/wiki/KylieFever2002_(album)) Showgirl (/wiki/Showgirl_(album)) Showgirl: Homecoming Live (/wiki/Showgirl:_Homecoming_Live) Kylie Live in New York (/wiki/Kylie_Live_in_New_York) Aphrodite Les Folies – Live in London (/wiki/Aphrodite_Les_Folies_%E2%80%93_Live_in_London) Kiss Me Once Live at the SSE Hydro (/wiki/Kiss_Me_Once_Live_at_the_SSE_Hydro) Extended plays A Kylie Christmas (/wiki/A_Kylie_Christmas) Sleepwalker (/wiki/Sleepwalker_(EP)) Kylie and Garibay (/wiki/Kylie_and_Garibay_(EP)) Concerts Disco in Dream (/wiki/Disco_in_Dream) Enjoy Yourself Tour (/wiki/Enjoy_Yourself_Tour) Rhythm of Love Tour (/wiki/Rhythm_of_Love_Tour) Let's Get to It Tour (/wiki/Let%27s_Get_to_It_Tour) Intimate and Live (/wiki/Intimate_and_Live_(concert_tour)) On a Night Like This (/wiki/On_a_Night_Like_This_(concert_tour)) KylieFever2002 (/wiki/KylieFever2002) Money Can't Buy (/wiki/Money_Can%27t_Buy) Showgirl: The Greatest Hits Tour (/wiki/Showgirl:_The_Greatest_Hits_Tour) Showgirl: The Homecoming Tour (/wiki/Showgirl:_The_Homecoming_Tour) KylieX2008 (/wiki/KylieX2008) For You, for Me (/wiki/For_You,_for_Me) Aphrodite: Les Folies Tour (/wiki/Aphrodite:_Les_Folies_Tour) Anti Tour (/wiki/Anti_Tour) Kiss Me Once Tour (/wiki/Kiss_Me_Once_Tour) Summer 2015 (/wiki/Summer_2015_(Kylie_Minogue)) A Kylie Christmas (/wiki/A_Kylie_Christmas_(concert_series)) Kylie Presents Golden (/wiki/Kylie_Presents_Golden) Golden Tour (/wiki/Golden_Tour) Summer 2019 (/wiki/Summer_2019) Infinite Disco (/wiki/Infinite_Disco) More Than Just a Residency (/wiki/More_Than_Just_a_Residency) Video The Kylie Tapes: 94–98 (/wiki/The_Kylie_Tapes:_94%E2%80%9398) Live in Sydney (/wiki/Live_in_Sydney) KylieFever2002: Live in Manchester (/wiki/KylieFever2002:_Live_in_Manchester) Showgirl (/wiki/Showgirl_(video)) KylieX2008 (/wiki/KylieX2008_(video)) Acting roles Charlene Robinson (/wiki/Charlene_Robinson) Cammy (/wiki/Cammy) Astrid Peth (/wiki/Astrid_Peth) Television " Episode 523 (/wiki/Episode_523_(Neighbours)) " " Finale (/wiki/Neighbours:_The_Finale) " Kylie's Secret Night (/wiki/Kylie%27s_Secret_Night) " Voyage of the Damned (/wiki/Voyage_of_the_Damned_(Doctor_Who)) " Books Kylie: La La La (/wiki/Kylie:_La_La_La) The Showgirl Princess (/wiki/The_Showgirl_Princess) Kylie / Fashion (/wiki/Kylie_/_Fashion) Perfumes Darling (/wiki/Darling_(fragrance)) Sexy Darling (/wiki/Sexy_Darling_(fragrance)) Pink Sparkle Related articles The Albums 2000–2010 (/wiki/The_Albums_2000%E2%80%932010) Dannii Minogue (/wiki/Dannii_Minogue) Kylie and Garibay (/wiki/Kylie_and_Garibay) Kylie Minogue Wines (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue_Wines) So Lucky (/wiki/So_Lucky_(No%C3%ABl_Akchot%C3%A9_album)) White Diamond: A Personal Portrait of Kylie Minogue (/wiki/White_Diamond:_A_Personal_Portrait_of_Kylie_Minogue) Category (/wiki/Category:Kylie_Minogue) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐7ff7499668‐h7q9b Cached time: 20240716101740 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.326 seconds Real time 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This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/On_Cheong_Jewellery) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:On_Cheong_Jewellery) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article contains content that is written like an advertisement (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_soapbox_or_means_of_promotion) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=On_Cheong_Jewellery&action=edit) by removing promotional content (/wiki/Wikipedia:Spam) and inappropriate external links (/wiki/Wikipedia:External_links#Advertising_and_conflicts_of_interest) , and by adding encyclopedic content written from a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . 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( December 2017 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) On Cheong Jewellery Industry Retailing Jewellery Manufacturing Founded Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) (1936 ; 88 years ago ( 1936 ) ) Founder Ho Yew Ping (1911 - 1965) Headquarters Chinatown , Singapore Area served Singapore Key people Ho Nai Chuen, MD (/wiki/Managing_Director) Number of employees 1300 Website www.oncheong.com (https://www.oncheong.com/) On Cheong Jewellery (安昌) is a jewellery manufacturing company based in Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) . On Cheong Jewellery is a member of the Singapore Jewellers Association (SJA), a non-profit representing jewellery operators in Singapore. [1] (#cite_note-ref9-1) History [ edit ] Founder of On Cheong Co. Pte Ltd On Cheong Jewellery in the 1950s Singapore Chinatown On Cheong Jewellery was founded in 1936 by Ho Yew Ping, an emigrant of Guangdong (/wiki/Guangdong) Shunde (/wiki/Shunde_District) province of China (/wiki/China) . [2] (#cite_note-ref7-2) [3] (#cite_note-ref17-3) The name of the company is derived from the phrase "平安昌盛", meaning peace and prosperity. [4] (#cite_note-ref4-4) [5] (#cite_note-ref15-5) On Cheong moved to its current location, a shophouse on South Bridge Road, in 1941. [2] (#cite_note-ref7-2) [3] (#cite_note-ref17-3) [4] (#cite_note-ref4-4) In the 1940s On Cheong acquired Kwong Yik and Nan Jing Goldsmiths as part of an expansion and was formally incorporated in 1949. [3] (#cite_note-ref17-3) Ho Yew Ping’s wife and the eldest son took over the operations of the business after Ping's death in 1965. [2] (#cite_note-ref7-2) Ho Nai Chuen, the youngest of Ho's children, joined the family business in 1985 and is currently the Managing Director of On Cheong. [4] (#cite_note-ref4-4) During the 2007–2008 financial crisis (/wiki/Financial_crisis_of_2007%E2%80%932008) , sales of gold jewellery fell. In response On Cheong shifted from mass-produced (/wiki/Mass_production) jewellery to customized pieces. The firm also placed additional emphasis on jade jewellery. [6] (#cite_note-ref3-6) [7] (#cite_note-ref2-7) [8] (#cite_note-ref1-8) Products [ edit ] On Cheong offers a variety of products including gold (/wiki/Gold) , diamonds (/wiki/Diamond) , jadeite (/wiki/Jadeite) and gem-set jewellery. [7] (#cite_note-ref2-7) Awards [ edit ] On Cheong has been noted for its practice in retaining older staff. The company was one of the five employers listed by the Tripartite Alliance for Fair Practices in 2012. [9] (#cite_note-ref5-9) [10] (#cite_note-ref11-10) [11] (#cite_note-ref14-11) Locations [ edit ] On Cheong’s flagship store is located at South Bridge Road while its branch is located at New Bridge Road. [12] (#cite_note-ref16-12) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-ref9_1-0) "Members" (http://www.sja.org.sg/member-list) . Singapore Jewellers Association . Retrieved 20 April 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Leong, W. K. (11 March 2012). "Every word a gem bright with history". The Straits Times. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 927113542 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/927113542) . ^ Jump up to: a b c "On Cheong Jewellery" (http://www.dpgroup.sg/s1000/TributeEdition/slider.html#page/125) . The Singapore 1000 and the Singapore SME 1000 Tribute Edition . Retrieved 20 April 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Tham, P (2008). "Past and Present: Sparkling Makeover" (http://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/newspapers/Digitised/Article/today20080105-1.2.38.6.aspx) . Today . Retrieved 20 April 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-ref15_5-0) "About Us" (http://oncheong.com/about-us/) . On Cheong . Retrieved 20 April 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-ref3_6-0) Today (26 January 2011). "Success that does not lose its shine". Today. Factiva. ^ Jump up to: a b Michael, M (3 December 2008). "Talk of the Town" (http://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/newspapers/Digitised/Article/straitstimes20081203-1.2.157.12.aspx) . The Straits Times . Retrieved 20 April 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-ref1_8-0) Teo, J (2 November 2011). "A Goldsmith 75 Years Ago, Now a Jeweller". The Straits Times. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 901324605 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/901324605) . ^ (#cite_ref-ref5_9-0) Woo, S. B. (27 December 2012). " 'Friendly' workplaces for the elderly". Today. Factiva. ^ (#cite_ref-ref11_10-0) "Give older workers a fair deal: Minister". The Business Times (/wiki/The_Business_Times_(Singapore)) . 7 January 2012. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 914493835 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/914493835) . ^ (#cite_ref-ref14_11-0) Ramesh, S (15 March 2011). "After ADVANTAGE! Time to ACCELERATE". Today. Factiva. ^ (#cite_ref-ref16_12-0) "Contact Us" (http://oncheong.com/contact-us/) . On Cheong . Retrieved 20 April 2015 . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=On_Cheong_Jewellery&oldid=1217595649 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=On_Cheong_Jewellery&oldid=1217595649) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Jewellery companies of Singapore (/wiki/Category:Jewellery_companies_of_Singapore) Luxury brands (/wiki/Category:Luxury_brands) Manufacturing companies established in 1936 (/wiki/Category:Manufacturing_companies_established_in_1936) Singaporean brands (/wiki/Category:Singaporean_brands) 1936 establishments in Singapore (/wiki/Category:1936_establishments_in_Singapore) Hidden categories: Use dmy dates from February 2023 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_February_2023) Articles with a promotional tone from December 2017 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_a_promotional_tone_from_December_2017) All articles with a promotional tone (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_a_promotional_tone) Wikipedia articles with possible conflicts of interest from December 2017 (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_articles_with_possible_conflicts_of_interest_from_December_2017) Articles with multiple maintenance issues (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_multiple_maintenance_issues)
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American entrepreneur For the American actress, see Alexandra Wilson (/wiki/Alexandra_Wilson) . Alexandra Wilkis Wilson Born Alexandra Wilkis New York City Alma mater Harvard University (/wiki/Harvard_University) (AB, MBA) Occupation(s) Entrepreneur and Investor Relatives Alan Wilkis, Brother Alexandra Wilkis Wilson is an American entrepreneur and investor who co-founded the companies the Gilt Groupe (/wiki/Gilt_Groupe) , GlamSquad, and Fitz. [1] (#cite_note-1) She is currently co-founder and Managing Partner at Clerisy, a consumer-focused growth equity fund. [2] (#cite_note-McGrath-2) Early life and education [ edit ] Wilkis Wilson was born and raised in New York City. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) She attended The Brearley School (/wiki/The_Brearley_School) , Phillips Exeter Academy (/wiki/Phillips_Exeter_Academy) , [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) Harvard College (/wiki/Harvard_College) , where she graduated magna cum laude , [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) and Harvard Business School (/wiki/Harvard_Business_School) . [5] (#cite_note-5) Wilkis Wilson grew up in a bilingual home (Spanish/English) and later learned French, Portuguese and Italian. She studied piano at the Manhattan School of Music (/wiki/Manhattan_School_of_Music) and played competitively until about the 10th grade. She credits music as being a strong early influence in her life and in her dedication to entrepreneurial ventures. [6] (#cite_note-6) Her brother Alan Wilkis is the founder of the American Music Project, Big Data (/wiki/Big_Data_(band)) . [7] (#cite_note-7) Career [ edit ] Wilkis Wilson began her career working in investment banking at Merrill Lynch (/wiki/Merrill_Lynch) for three years, [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) before returning to Harvard to earn an MBA. [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) She then entered the Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) management training program, [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) which included working the sales floor. [9] (#cite_note-9) Subsequently, she worked for two years managing retail operations for Bulgari (/wiki/Bulgari) . [10] (#cite_note-10) Wilkis Wilson co-founded the Gilt Groupe in 2007, [11] (#cite_note-11) a flashsale company that offers luxury goods for sale at significant discounts, but only for brief windows of time. In 2012, Wilkis Wilson and cofounder Alexis Maybank, a classmate from Harvard Business School, published a book on Gilt's founding, By Invitation Only: How We Built Gilt and Changed the Way Millions Shop. [12] (#cite_note-12) At one point the company was valued at a billion dollars, making it a " unicorn (/wiki/Unicorn_(finance)) " (a venture capital slang term for a startup valued at a billion dollars), but sold to Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) parent company Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) for $250 million in 2016. [13] (#cite_note-13) Wilkis Wilson left the company in 2014. In September 2014, she became co-founder and CEO of GlamSquad, a mobile styling company [14] (#cite_note-14) "which offers on-demand beauty services through an integrated app." [15] (#cite_note-instyle.com_profile-15) Clients can use an app to book hair and makeup artists for house calls--"the Uber (/wiki/Uber) of beauty services." [16] (#cite_note-16) The company had $8 million in sales in the first year, and raised $24 million in funding, as of February 2017. [17] (#cite_note-17) It operates in New York City, Los Angeles, Miami and Washington, DC. [18] (#cite_note-18) In March 2017, Wilkis Wilson launched a startup called Fitz, a service that offers an in-person wardrobe consultation and then follow-up advice on shopping. [19] (#cite_note-19) Fitz was sold to Tradesy, the online peer-to-peer resale marketplace for women's luxury and designer contemporary fashion, in February 2018. [20] (#cite_note-20) In February 2018, Wilkis Wilson was recruited by Boston Consulting Group to join Allergan as the SVP, Consumer Strategy & Innovation. She led new efforts in revolutionizing digital marketing and DTC initiatives for Allergan's leading aesthetics portfolio including Botox, Juvederm and Coolsculpting. [21] (#cite_note-21) She left Allergan in July 2020 after the company was acquired by AbbVie Inc. for $63B. [22] (#cite_note-22) Today Wilkis Wilson is co-founder and Managing Partner at Clerisy (https://clerisy.com) , the growth equity fund which she co-founded with Lisa Myers, formerly a partner at L. Catterton and a 20-year veteran of Templeton. [2] (#cite_note-McGrath-2) Clerisy's growing portfolio includes investments in Dormify, UNION and CleanCo. [23] (#cite_note-Home-23) Wilkis Wilson has been a prolific advisor and angel investor to over 80 tech startups including but not limited to Birchbox, [24] (#cite_note-GLAMSQUAD-24) Carbon38, [25] (#cite_note-25) Flow Commerce, [26] (#cite_note-26) Rent the Runway, [24] (#cite_note-GLAMSQUAD-24) and Tula. [27] (#cite_note-27) She has been an advisor to consumer tech Venture Capital funds including Forerunner Ventures and Montage Ventures. [28] (#cite_note-28) Personal life [ edit ] Wilkis Wilson is married [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) and has two children. [29] (#cite_note-29) She presently resides in Miami, FL. [23] (#cite_note-Home-23) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Zarya, Valentina (March 30, 2017). "Gilt Groupe's Alexandra Wilkis Wilson Has a New Venture" (http://fortune.com/2017/03/30/gilt-glamsquad-alexandra-wilkis-wilson/) . Fortune . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b McGrath, Maggie. "Exclusive: Glamsquad Founder Alexandra Wilkis Wilson Joins Investor Lisa Myers To Debut Clerisy, A $100 Million Growth Equity Fund" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/maggiemcgrath/2021/03/10/exclusive-glamsquad-founder-alexandra-wilkis-wilson-joins-investor-lisa-myers-to-debut-clerisy-a-100-million-growth-equity-fund/) . Forbes . Retrieved 2022-08-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Meet Alexandra Wilkis Wilson, CEO of GlamSquad and a Woman of Influence" (http://www.bizjournals.com/newyork/news/2016/01/19/meet-alexandra-wilkis-wilson-ceo-of-glamsquad-and.html) . The New York Business Journal . January 19, 2016 . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Alexandra Wilkis, Kevin Wilson" (https://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/13/fashion/weddings/13Wilkis.html) . The New York Times . 13 May 2007 . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Groth, Aimee (April 12, 2012). "Alexandra Wilkis Wilson Couldn't Have Co-Launched Gilt Groupe Without The 9,500 Contacts In Her BlackBerry" (http://www.businessinsider.com/alexandra-wilkis-wilson-had-a-whopping-9500-contacts-on-her-blackberry-before-launching-gilt-groupe-2012-4) . Business Insider . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Bryant, Adam (October 8, 2015). "Alexandra Wilkis Wilson on the Art of Recovering From a Wrong Note" (https://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/11/business/alexandra-wilkis-wilson-on-the-art-of-recovering-from-a-wrong-note.html?_r=2) . The New York Times . Retrieved 20 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Big Data (band)" (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Big_Data_(band)&oldid=1085211438) , Wikipedia , 2022-04-29 , retrieved 2022-08-21 ^ Jump up to: a b Cain, Molly. "Insider Secrets of Gilt Groupe's Alexandra Wilson" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/glassheel/2012/08/29/insider-secrets-of-gilt-groupes-alexandra-wilson/#4ad89ddf30f1) . Forbes . Retrieved 2017-04-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Bryant, Adam (8 October 2015). "Alexandra Wilkis Wilson on the Art of Recovering From a Wrong Note" (https://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/11/business/alexandra-wilkis-wilson-on-the-art-of-recovering-from-a-wrong-note.html?_r=0) . The New York Times . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Oster, Erik (August 12, 2014). "Gilt Co-Founder Leaves for Startup" (http://www.adweek.com/digital/gilt-co-founder-leaves-startup-159454/) . AdWeek . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) DeBaise, Colleen (2010-10-19). "Launching Gilt Groupe, A Fashionable Enterprise" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748703792704575366842447271892) . Wall Street Journal . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0099-9660 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0099-9660) . Retrieved 2017-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Heussner, Ki Mae (April 12, 2012). "Gilt Groupe Founders Gab About the Future of Commerce" (http://www.adweek.com/digital/gilt-groupe-founders-gab-about-future-commerce-139548/) . AdWeek . Retrieved 2017-04-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) O'Connor, Clare (January 7, 2016). "Saks Parent Hudson's Bay Buys Gilt Groupe In $250 Million Cash Deal, Will Fold Into Saks Off Fifth" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/clareoconnor/2016/01/07/saks-parent-hudsons-bay-buys-gilt-groupe-in-250-million-cash-deal-will-fold-into-saks-off-fifth/#6acb1b3c885f) . Forbes . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Mochizuki, Takashi (11 August 2014). "Gilt Groupe Co-Founder Takes Aim At The Beauty Business" (https://blogs.wsj.com/digits/2014/08/11/gilt-groupe-co-founder-takes-aim-at-the-beauty-business/?mg=id-wsj) . Wall Street Journal . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-instyle.com_profile_15-0) "How Alexandra Wilkis Wilson Launched Gilt and Glamsquad" (https://www.instyle.com/beauty/alexandra-wilkis-wilson-allergan-profile) . InStyle . Retrieved 2020-05-18 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Entis, Laura (June 15, 2016). "Glamsquad, the 'Uber of Beauty Services,' Has a New CEO" (http://fortune.com/2016/06/15/glamsquads-new-ceo/) . Fortune . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Marinova, Polina (February 11, 2016). "Gilt Groupe Co-Founder Discusses HBC Saks Acquisition" (http://fortune.com/2016/02/11/glamsquad-alexandra-wilkis-wilson/) . Fortune . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Lieber, Chavie (31 March 2017). "Your Local Salon Can't Compete With Drybar and Glamsquad" (http://www.racked.com/2017/3/31/15114972/drybar-glamsquad-expansion) . Racked . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Young, Vicki M. (30 March 2017). "New Start-up Fitz Wants to Be in Your Closet" (http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/new-start-up-fitz-fashion-styling-service-closet-fashion-scoop-10854580/) . WWD . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Driver, Robin (2 April 2018). "Tradesy launches wardrobe management service off back of Fitz acquisition" (https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Tradesy-launches-wardrobe-management-service-off-back-of-fitz-acquisition,963897.html) . Retrieved 17 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Lyn Gross, Elana (14 September 2018). "How The Cofounder Of Gilt Groupe Continues To Create Innovative Products For Women" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/elanagross/2018/09/14/how-the-cofounder-of-gilt-groupe-continues-to-create-innovative-products-for-women/#25a372ad10b9) . Retrieved 17 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Nawrat, Allie (12 May 2020). "AbbVie acquires Allergan: unpicking the year-long approval process" (https://www.pharmaceutical-technology.com/features/abbvie-allergan-acquisition-63bn/) . Retrieved 17 July 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Home" (https://clerisy.com/) . Clerisy . Retrieved 2022-08-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b GLAMSQUAD. "Alexandra Wilkis Wilson Joins GLAMSQUAD As CEO" (https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/alexandra-wilkis-wilson-joins-glamsquad-as-ceo-270882701.html) . www.prnewswire.com (Press release) . Retrieved 2022-08-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Genie" (https://talent.geniecast.com/genie/) . Geniecast . Retrieved 2022-08-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Flow Commerce company information, funding & investors" (https://app.dealroom.co/companies/flow_io) . app.dealroom.co . Retrieved 2022-08-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "angel.co" (https://angel.co/u/awilkiswilson) . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Alexandra Wilkis Wilson" (https://www.apbspeakers.com/speaker/alexandra-wilkis-wilson/) . APB Speakers . Retrieved 2022-08-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) O'Connor, Clare (September 28, 2015). "Beauty, On-Demand: Meet The Women Making Millions Bringing Blowouts To Your Home" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/clareoconnor/2015/09/09/beauty-on-demand/#4bb7a8edee8a) . Forbes . Retrieved 31 March 2017 . 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The Original Car Shoe Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) Founded 1963 Headquarters Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Prada (/wiki/Prada) Website www.carshoe.com (http://www.carshoe.com/) The Original Car Shoe , or simply Car Shoe , is an Italian high fashion (/wiki/High_fashion) brand owned by Prada (/wiki/Prada) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Early years [ edit ] Car Shoe was founded in 1963 by Gianni Mostile. [2] (#cite_note-Ecofriendly_Advisor-2) The brand soon became best known for its signature moccasin (/wiki/Moccasin) which feature tiny rubber nubs. The brand earned a patent from the Italian Ministry of Industry and Trade and its advocates included Giovanni Agnelli (/wiki/Giovanni_Agnelli) , U.S. President John F. Kennedy (/wiki/John_F._Kennedy) [3] (#cite_note-fashion_daily-3) and Roberto Rossellini (/wiki/Roberto_Rossellini) . Prada takeover [ edit ] In 2001, Car Shoe was assimilated by Prada, which soon opened stores in Milan (/wiki/Milan) and Capri (/wiki/Capri) in the next two years and introduced the line into over 200 major boutiques internationally. Prada launched Car Shoe's first bags in 2004. Car Shoe's traditional driving shoe is now available in a wide range of colors and leathers, and even in a new children's collection. Under Prada's control, Car Shoe sales have seen much growth. Its 2005 turnover of 17 million euros ($21 million) represented a remarkable 180% surge in sales from 6 million euros ($7.5 million) in 2004, and its sales increased by 33% in 2008 compared to the previous year. According to Fashion Wire Daily, Car Shoe is one of the six most copied labels in the Chinese capital (/wiki/Chinese_capital) . Stores [ edit ] The company currently has its own unique stores in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Rome (/wiki/Rome) , Capri (/wiki/Capri) , Dubai (/wiki/Dubai) , Hong Kong (/wiki/Hong_Kong) and Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) . It is planning on opening new stores in Italy (/wiki/Italy) , other countries in Europe (/wiki/Europe) , the Far East (/wiki/Far_East) and New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) in the near future. References [ edit ] Fashion Wired Daily (http://www.fashionwiredaily.com/first_word/news/article.weml?id=757) The Car Shoe Brand Facts, Ecofriendly Advisor (https://ecofriendlyadvisor.com/car-shoe-brand-facts/) External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.carshoe.com) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Rachel Sanderson, Prada sales increase 30%, FT.com (https://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/5bad33c2-c280-11df-956e-00144feab49a.html) ^ (#cite_ref-Ecofriendly_Advisor_2-0) "The Car Shoe Brand Facts, ecofriendlyadvisor.com" (https://ecofriendlyadvisor.com/car-shoe-brand-facts/) . Retrieved 31 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-fashion_daily_3-0) "Car Shoe Opens New Milan Flagship" (http://www.fashionwiredaily.com/first_word/news/article.weml?id=757) . Retrieved 2 October 2010 . This Italian corporation or company article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=The_Original_Car_Shoe&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐bkpsg Cached time: 20240712173925 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.235 seconds Real time usage: 0.295 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1044/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 9826/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 474/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 9/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 13998/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.165/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3785608/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 275.108 1 -total 40.81% 112.284 1 Template:Infobox_company 33.22% 91.403 1 Template:Reflist 31.38% 86.337 1 Template:Infobox 29.11% 80.082 2 Template:Cite_web 25.10% 69.050 1 Template:Italy-company-stub 23.94% 65.860 1 Template:Asbox 5.09% 13.996 4 Template:Main_other 4.16% 11.449 1 Template:Wikidata 3.40% 9.344 1 Template:Comma_separated_entries Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:28145892-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712173925 and revision id 1068581331. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=The_Original_Car_Shoe&oldid=1068581331 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=The_Original_Car_Shoe&oldid=1068581331) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Shoe brands (/wiki/Category:Shoe_brands) Prada (/wiki/Category:Prada) Italian company stubs (/wiki/Category:Italian_company_stubs) Hidden category: All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)
A disposable shower cap A shower cap (also known as a bath cap ) is a hat worn while showering or bathing to protect hair from becoming wet. Alternatively, shower caps for children can be crowns with wide brims that prevent water and shampoo (/wiki/Shampoo) from getting in the eyes while allowing the hair to be washed. [1] (#cite_note-1) Many designs are produced by joining two layers of fabric together in order to make the shower cap not only waterproof (/wiki/Waterproof) but decorative. However, simpler designs are made from one layer of a waterproof material. Designs invariably contain an elastic edging to keep them in place. Shower caps are used in hair mask treatments or hair dyes. They trap in the heat so that the treatment or color sets in. Plastic bags are often used as shower caps. They are important beauty tools in spas. Shower caps are also worn when receiving a facial mask in a spa. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "11 uses for shower caps" (http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/04/09/11-uses-for-shower-caps/) . Fox News . Retrieved 19 May 2015 . This clothing (/wiki/Clothing) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Shower_cap&action=edit) . v t e v t e Hats (/wiki/Hat) and caps (/wiki/Cap) List of hat styles (/wiki/List_of_hat_styles) Western (/wiki/Western_culture) culture (/wiki/Western_culture) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) Cartwheel (/wiki/Cartwheel_hat) Cloche (/wiki/Cloche_hat) Cocktail (/wiki/Cocktail_hat) Doll (/wiki/Doll_hat) Draped turban (/wiki/Draped_turban) Eugénie (/wiki/Eug%C3%A9nie_hat) Fascinator (/wiki/Fascinator) Half (/wiki/Half_hat) Halo (/wiki/Halo_hat) Juliet (/wiki/Juliet_cap) Mushroom (/wiki/Mushroom_hat) Lampshade (/wiki/Lampshade_hat) Picture (/wiki/Picture_hat) Peach (/wiki/Peach_basket_hat) Pillbox (/wiki/Pillbox_hat) Tam (/wiki/Tam_cap) Top (/wiki/Top_hat) Opera (/wiki/Opera_hat) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) Homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) Anthony Eden (/wiki/Anthony_Eden_hat) Boater (/wiki/Boater) Bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) Buntal (/wiki/Buntal_hat) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Cabbage-tree (/wiki/Cabbage-tree_hat) Chupalla (/wiki/Chupalla) Fedora (/wiki/Fedora) Trilby (/wiki/Trilby) Flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) Coppola (/wiki/Coppola_cap) Newsboy (/wiki/Newsboy_cap) Panama (/wiki/Panama_hat) Pork pie (/wiki/Pork_pie_hat) Smoking (/wiki/Smoking_cap) Wideawake (/wiki/Wideawake_hat) Uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Aviator (/wiki/Aviator_hat) Bearskin (/wiki/Bearskin) Bell-boy hat (/wiki/Bell-boy_hat) Bicorne (/wiki/Bicorne) Black (/wiki/Black_cap) Boonie (/wiki/Boonie_hat) Budenovka (/wiki/Budenovka) Busby (/wiki/Busby_(military_headdress)) Campaign (/wiki/Campaign_hat) Cap comforter (/wiki/Cap_comforter) Cappello Alpino (/wiki/Cappello_Alpino) Casquette d'Afrique (/wiki/Casquette_d%27Afrique) Caubeen (/wiki/Caubeen) Cavalry Stetson (/wiki/Cavalry_Stetson) Czapka (/wiki/Czapka) Doctoral (/wiki/Doctoral_hat) Feather bonnet (/wiki/Feather_bonnet) Forage (/wiki/Forage_cap) Karvalakki (/wiki/Karvalakki) Fur wedge (/wiki/Fur_wedge_cap) Hardee (/wiki/Hardee_hat) Jeep (/wiki/Jeep_cap) Kepi (/wiki/Kepi) Mazepynka (/wiki/Mazepynka) Nurse's (/wiki/Nurse%27s_cap) Maintenance (/wiki/Cap_of_maintenance) / Chapeau (/wiki/Chapeau) Military beret (/wiki/Military_beret) / Uniform beret (/wiki/Uniform_beret) Black (/wiki/Black_beret) Blue (/wiki/Blue_beret) Green (/wiki/Green_beret) Maroon (/wiki/Maroon_beret) Red (/wiki/Red_beret) Tan (/wiki/Tan_beret) Patrol (/wiki/Patrol_cap) Peaked (/wiki/Peaked_cap) Mariner's (/wiki/Mariner%27s_cap) Sailor (/wiki/Sailor_cap) Printer's (/wiki/Printer%27s_hat) Rogatywka (/wiki/Rogatywka) Shako (/wiki/Shako) Side (/wiki/Side_cap) Titovka (/wiki/Titovka_(cap)) Triglavka (/wiki/Triglavka) Ski (/wiki/Ski_cap) Slouch (/wiki/Slouch_hat) Sou'wester (/wiki/Sou%27wester) Student (/wiki/Student_cap) Faluche (/wiki/Faluche) Square academic (/wiki/Square_academic_cap) Tricorne (/wiki/Tricorne) Utility cover (/wiki/Utility_cover) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) Christian (/wiki/Christian_clothing) Western 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Add tags to your draft Editor resources Find sources: Google (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Nichapat+Suphap%22) ( books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Nichapat+Suphap%22+-wikipedia) · news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Nichapat+Suphap%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Nichapat+Suphap%22) · free images (https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&tbs=sur:fmc&tbm=isch&q=%22Nichapat+Suphap%22+-site:wikipedia.org+-site:wikimedia.org) · WP refs (https://www.google.com/custom?hl=en&cx=007734830908295939403%3Agalkqgoksq0&cof=FORID%3A13%3BAH%3Aleft%3BCX%3AWikipedia%2520Reference%2520Search&q=%22Nichapat+Suphap%22) ) · FENS (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Free_English_newspaper_sources) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Nichapat+Suphap%22&acc=on&wc=on) · TWL (https://wikipedialibrary.wmflabs.org/search/?q=%22Nichapat+Suphap%22) Easy tools : Citation bot (https://citations.toolforge.org/process_page.php?edit=automated_tools&slow=1&page=Draft:Nichapat_Suphap) ( help (/wiki/User:Citation_bot/use) ) | Advanced: Fix bare URLs (https://tools.wmflabs.org/refill/result.php?page=Draft:Nichapat_Suphap&defaults=y) Declined by WikiOriginal-9 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:WikiOriginal-9) 7 months ago. Last edited by Citation bot (/wiki/User:Citation_bot) 2 months ago. Reviewer: Inform author (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=User_talk:Costanzanichapat&action=edit&editintro=Template:AfC_submission/user_talk_editintro_declined&preload=Template:AfC_submission/user_talk_preload_declined&preloadtitle=Your+submission+at+%5B%5BWP%3AAfC%7CArticles+for+creation%5D%5D&section=new) . Resubmit Please note that if the issues are not fixed, the draft will be declined again. Thai entrepreneur Nichapat Suphap, born in Bangkok, Thailand, is an international fashion journalist and creative image consultant based in London and Bangkok. [1] (#cite_note-1) Nichapat is currently the founder and owner of The Venture Management, an agency focused only on Thai A-list celebrities [2] (#cite_note-2) . Current clients include Mile Phakphum, Nattawin Apo Wattanagitiphat, Bible Wichapas Sumettikul, Kanawut Traipipattanapong, Bright Vachirawit Chivaaree, and Davika Hoorne. [3] (#cite_note-3) Nichapat has been a contributing editor at Vogue Thailand since 2014 and was the first Thai person to be invited to the Met Gala, which she has attended every year since. [4] (#cite_note-4) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Nast, Condé (2021-09-07). "How a Thai Fashion Consultant Dresses For Reemergence" (https://www.vogue.com/article/9-to-5-thai-luxury-consultant-nichapat-suphap) . Vogue . Retrieved 2024-03-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Why Thai Celebrities Are Fashion's New Power Players" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-markets/why-thai-celebrities-are-fashions-new-power-players/) . The Business of Fashion . 2023-11-14 . Retrieved 2024-03-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Lei, Angela. "How The Venture Management Became The Only Thai Talent Agency That Mattered" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/angelalei/2023/11/15/how-the-venture-management-became-the-only-thai-talent-agency-that-mattered/?sh=3269de8c643e) . Forbes . Retrieved 21 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Templeton, Lily (14 November 2023). "Nichapat Suphap Launches Thai Talent Agency the Venture Management" (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/nichapat-suphap-thai-talent-agency-the-venture-management-apo-mile-bright-gulf-1235924623/) . Womens Wear Daily . Retrieved 21 November 2023 . 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Rendering was triggered because: api-purge esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Draft:Nichapat_Suphap&oldid=1223473019 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Draft:Nichapat_Suphap&oldid=1223473019) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : AfC submissions by date/21 November 2023 (/wiki/Category:AfC_submissions_by_date/21_November_2023) Draft articles on visual arts (/wiki/Category:Draft_articles_on_visual_arts) Draft articles on Southeast Asia (/wiki/Category:Draft_articles_on_Southeast_Asia) AfC submissions on living persons (/wiki/Category:AfC_submissions_on_living_persons) Hidden categories: AfC submissions declined as a non-notable biography (/wiki/Category:AfC_submissions_declined_as_a_non-notable_biography) Declined AfC submissions (/wiki/Category:Declined_AfC_submissions)
Indian edition of fashion magazine Vogue Vogue India One of October 2017 covers highlighting Vogue India 's tenth anniversary Head of Editorial Content Lakhwinder Lucky Former editors Megha Kapoor (2021–2023) Priya Tanna (2007–2021) Categories Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_magazine) Frequency Bi-Monthly Publisher Sukh Pal Sukh First issue October 2007 ( 2007-10 ) Company Condé Nast India Pvt. Ltd. Country India (/wiki/India) Based in Mumbai (/wiki/Mumbai) Language English Website www (https://www.vogue.in/) .vogue (https://www.vogue.in/) .in (https://www.vogue.in/) ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0973-9645 (https://www.worldcat.org/search?fq=x0:jrnl&q=n2:0973-9645) OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 456294149 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/456294149) Vogue India is the Indian edition of the monthly fashion (/wiki/Fashion_(magazine)) and lifestyle magazine (/wiki/Lifestyle_magazine) Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . It is the 17th international edition of Vogue and the first edition in South Asia. [1] (#cite_note-1) Vogue India is published by Condé Nast India Pvt. Ltd., a 100% owned subsidiary of Condé Nast International (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast_Publications) . [2] (#cite_note-2) Vogue India was the first magazine released in India that is 100% foreign owned. [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) Condé Nast India is based in Mumbai (/wiki/Mumbai) and also has an office in New Delhi (/wiki/New_Delhi) . [5] (#cite_note-5) History [ edit ] The magazine was founded in 2007 [6] (#cite_note-6) and began with a circulation of 50,000 print issues. [7] (#cite_note-7) The first editor of Vogue India , Priya Tanna, stated that this iteration of Vogue targets the modern Indian woman, celebrating India's "colorful people" and culture. [8] (#cite_note-8) The first issue of Vogue India was the October 2007 issue, which was released on 20 September 2007. The cover was shot by photographer Patrick Demarchelier (/wiki/Patrick_Demarchelier) , and featured Bipasha Basu (/wiki/Bipasha_Basu) , Gemma Ward (/wiki/Gemma_Ward) and Priyanka Chopra (/wiki/Priyanka_Chopra) on the regular cover, and Monikangana Dutta (/wiki/Monikangana_Dutta) , Preity Zinta (/wiki/Preity_Zinta) , and Lakshmi Menon (/wiki/Lakshmi_Menon_(model)) on the gatefold (/wiki/Gatefold) cover. [9] (#cite_note-Guardian-9) Ward's appearance on the cover was criticized by some readers who felt that the inaugural edition's cover should have exclusively featured Indian women. [10] (#cite_note-nine-10) Alex Kuruvilla, managing director of Condé Nast India, described Vogue India as being "nosier and more colourful and more vibrant than the western models". [9] (#cite_note-Guardian-9) Priya Tanna was the editor-in-chief of Vogue India from 2007 to 2021. [11] (#cite_note-11) The editorial team of Vogue India , and all other Asia-Pacific editions, originally reported to Vogue Taiwan editor Leslie Sun (/wiki/Leslie_Sun) , who in turn reported to global editorial director Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) . In 2021, Condé Nast announced a global restructuring of its operations to reduce costs. Under the new organization, the Vogue India editorial team reports directly to Anna Wintour who is also the chief content officer of Condé Nast. The restructuring led to the exit of several Vogue editors including Tanna. [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) Condé Nast appointed Megha Kapoor as Head of Editorial Content of Vogue India on 3 September 2021. [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) In an interview with The Sydney Morning Herald (/wiki/The_Sydney_Morning_Herald) , Kapoor emphasized her desire to "foster the diverse, rich and talented wealth of talent emerging from India" in this new role. [17] (#cite_note-17) Before taking on this position, Kapoor founded INPRINT and formerly worked as a junior fashion writer for Vogue India and on the fashion team of Vogue Australia (/wiki/Vogue_Australia) . [18] (#cite_note-18) Cover models [ edit ] Main article: List of Vogue India cover models (/wiki/List_of_Vogue_India_cover_models) Notable covers [ edit ] Celebrating the publication's seventh anniversary, the October 2014 issue highlighted Vogue India's #VogueEmpower initiative. Through over 150 celebrity endorsements, interviews with activists like Gloria Steinem (/wiki/Gloria_Steinem) , and collaborations with major fashion houses, Vogue India spoke to the ongoing fight for women's equality within India and throughout the world. [19] (#cite_note-19) The May 2017 Issue, featuring Kendall Jenner (/wiki/Kendall_Jenner) , came under controversy for featuring a non-Indian on the cover for the first of Vogue India's series of special issues celebrating their tenth anniversary. [20] (#cite_note-20) However, in a statement on Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) , the brand defended their choice of Jenner, stating that "as an international brand ...we want to give the love back by featuring some of the best international celebrities on our covers. Occasionally!" [21] (#cite_note-21) In the June 2019 magazine issue, Kareena Kapoor (/wiki/Kareena_Kapoor) , Karan Johar (/wiki/Karan_Johar) , Diljit Dosanjh (/wiki/Diljit_Dosanjh) and Natasha Poonawalla (/wiki/Natasha_Poonawalla) were seen together having a photoshoot for Vogue India 's magazine and the magazine issue was named 'Forces of Fashion'. On the cover page, Kareena Kapoor and Karan Johar are flaunting their animal print dress and a printed jacket, while Diljit Dosanjh and Natasha Poonawala are wearing purple and yellow outfits. [22] (#cite_note-22) In the March/April 2023 issue, British supermodel Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) appeared on the cover of Vogue India for the first time. [23] (#cite_note-23) On the cover, Campbell wears a crown, earrings, and necklace from Calcutta-based, Indian jewelry brand Sabyasachi. The title for the issue reads "Iconic Naomi" in the English language (/wiki/English_language) . [24] (#cite_note-24) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Vogue India Launches" (https://www.forbes.com/2007/09/18/vogue-india-interview-markets-equity-cx_rd_0917markets13.html?sh=30b0fd3f3b9f) . Forbes.com . Retrieved 18 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Condé Nas Traveller, About Us" (https://www.cntraveller.in/about-us/) . cntraveller.in . Retrieved 18 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Vogue India Launches" (https://www.forbes.com/2007/09/18/vogue-india-interview-markets-equity-cx_rd_0917markets13.html) . Forbes.com . 18 September 2007 . Retrieved 17 March 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Vogue Hits Indian Newsstands" (https://archive.today/20130410163125/http://www.businessweek.com/stories/2007-09-18/vogue-hits-indian-newsstandsbusinessweek-business-news-stock-market-and-financial-advice) . Businessweek. 18 September 2007. Archived from the original (http://www.businessweek.com/stories/2007-09-18/vogue-hits-indian-newsstandsbusinessweek-business-news-stock-market-and-financial-advice) on 10 April 2013 . Retrieved 24 March 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Condé Nast Traveller, Contact Us" (https://www.cntraveller.in/contact-us/) . cntraveller.in . Retrieved 18 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Amrita Madhukalya (19 July 2015). "Of recipes and G-spots: On India's 'magazine era' (http://www.dnaindia.com/lifestyle/report-of-recipes-and-g-spots-on-india-s-magazine-era-2105879) " (http://www.dnaindia.com/lifestyle/report-of-recipes-and-g-spots-on-india-s-magazine-era-2105879) . dna . Retrieved 25 September 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Vogue India Launches" (https://www.forbes.com/2007/09/18/vogue-india-interview-markets-equity-cx_rd_0917markets13.html?sh=30b0fd3f3b9f) . Forbes.com . Retrieved 18 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Vogue India Launches" (https://www.forbes.com/2007/09/18/vogue-india-interview-markets-equity-cx_rd_0917markets13.html?sh=30b0fd3f3b9f) . Forbes.com . Retrieved 18 April 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Stephen Brook (20 September 2007). "Vogue thinks big for Indian launch" (https://www.theguardian.com/media/2007/sep/20/pressandpublishing.fashion) . Guardian . Retrieved 17 March 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-nine_10-0) Hawke, Jack (26 October 2007). "Gemma Ward cover stirs up readers of Vogue India" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121005003808/http://news.ninemsn.com.au/entertainment/311148/gemma-ward-cover-stirs-up-readers-of-vogue-india) . ninemsn (/wiki/Ninemsn) . Archived from the original (http://news.ninemsn.com.au/entertainment/311148/gemma-ward-cover-stirs-up-readers-of-vogue-india) on 5 October 2012 . Retrieved 19 April 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Vogue to be launched in India" (http://www.business-standard.com/article/press-releases/vogue-to-be-launched-in-india-106120401001_1.html) . Business Standard India . Business Standard. 4 December 2006 . Retrieved 17 March 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Fraser, Kristopher (10 May 2021). "Vogue India's editor-in-chief set to exit" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/people/vogue-india-s-editor-in-chief-set-to-exit/2021051055395) . FashionUnited . Retrieved 1 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Vogue India Editor-in-Chief to Exit Amid Continued Consolidation at Condé Nast" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/media/vogue-india-editor-in-chief-to-exit-amid-continued-consolidation-at-conde-nast) . The Business of Fashion . 7 May 2021 . Retrieved 1 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Priya Tanna steps down as Editor-In-Chief of Vogue India after 15 years; Vogue Taiwan's Leslie Sun continues operations in the Asia-Pacific region" (https://www.peepingmoon.com/news-fashion/news/55518/Priya-Tanna-steps-down-as-Editor-In-Chief-of-Vogue-India-after-years-Vogue-Taiwans-Leslie-Sun-continues-operations-in-the-Asia-Pacific-region.html) . Peeping Moon . Retrieved 1 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Megha Kapoor Appointed Vogue India's Head of Editorial Content" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/workplace-talent/megha-kapoor-appointed-vogue-indias-head-of-editorial-content) . The Business of Fashion . 3 September 2021 . Retrieved 1 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Megha Kapoor appointed head of editorial, Vogue India - Exchange4media" (https://www.exchange4media.com/people-movement-news/megha-kapoor-appointed-head-of-editorial-vogue-india-115449.html) . Indian Advertising Media & Marketing News – exchange4media . Retrieved 1 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Anna Wintour appoints stylist from Australia editor of Vogue India" (https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/anna-wintour-appoints-stylist-from-australia-editor-of-vogue-india-20210816-p58j71.html) . The Sydney Morning Herald . 3 September 2021 . Retrieved 23 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Megha Kapoor, Head of Editorial Content Vogue India" (https://globalbrands.condenast.com/?person=megha-kapoor) . Condé Nast . Retrieved 23 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Vogue India's October cover is celebrity-packed – all for a good cause" (https://www.thenationalnews.com/arts-culture/film/vogue-indias-october-cover-is-celebrity-packed-all-for-a-good-cause-1.258809) . The National . 5 October 2014 . Retrieved 23 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Vogue India Addresses Kendall Jenner Cover Backlash" (https://www.teenvogue.com/story/kendall-jenner-vogue-india-cover-backlash) . Teen Vogue . 8 May 2017 . Retrieved 18 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Vogue India Addresses Kendall Jenner Cover Backlash" (https://www.teenvogue.com/story/kendall-jenner-vogue-india-cover-backlash) . Teen Vogue . 8 May 2017 . Retrieved 18 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Kareena Kapoor, Karan Johar, Diljit Dosanjh, Forces of Fashion Unite for Hottest Magazine Cover Shoot" (https://www.news18.com/news/lifestyle/kareena-kapoor-karan-johar-diljit-dosanjh-forces-of-fashion-unite-for-hottest-magazine-cover-shoot-2170049.html) . News18 . 3 June 2019 . Retrieved 4 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Supermodel Naomi Campbell is on a new journey, with India on her radar" (https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/supermodel-naomi-campbell-is-on-a-new-journey-with-india-on-her-radar-vogue-india-cover-story-march-april) . Vogue India . 27 February 2023 . Retrieved 18 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Supermodel Naomi Campbell is on a new journey, with India on her radar" (https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/supermodel-naomi-campbell-is-on-a-new-journey-with-india-on-her-radar-vogue-india-cover-story-march-april) . Vogue India . 27 February 2023 . Retrieved 16 April 2023 . 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This article is an orphan (/wiki/Wikipedia:Orphan) , as no other articles link to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:WhatLinksHere&target=New_Orleans_Silversmiths&namespace=0) . Please introduce links (/wiki/Help:Link) to this page from related articles (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special%3ASearch&redirs=1&search=New+Orleans+Silversmiths&fulltext=Search&ns0=1&title=Special%3ASearch&advanced=1&fulltext=New+Orleans+Silversmiths) ; try the Find link tool (https://edwardbetts.com/find_link?q=New_Orleans_Silversmiths) for suggestions. ( August 2016 ) New Orleans Silversmiths Company type Private Industry Jewelers (/wiki/Jewellery) , Silversmiths (/wiki/Silversmith) Founded New Orleans, Louisiana (/wiki/New_Orleans,_Louisiana) 1938 ( 1938 ) Founder Karl Dingeldein Headquarters 600 Chartres St New Orleans (/wiki/New_Orleans) , USA 70130 Area served Worldwide Key people Paul J. Leaman, Jr. Website www (http://www.neworleanssilversmiths.com) .neworleanssilversmiths (http://www.neworleanssilversmiths.com) .com (http://www.neworleanssilversmiths.com) New Orleans Silversmiths is a jewelry and silverware retailer that specializes in both contemporary and antique gold jewelry, as well as antique holloware. [1] (#cite_note-1) It was established in 1938 by Karl Dingeldein, a third generation silversmith from Hanau, Germany who had emigrated to the US. The Dingeldein family's long tradition of metal work and silver manufacture, both in Germany and the U.S., is well documented. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) The present owners acquired the business in 1966 and for many years it has been located near the center of the French Quarter (/wiki/French_Quarter) , the oldest part of the city. [4] (#cite_note-4) The shop handles new and estate silverware and jewelry. Background [ edit ] New Orleans Silversmiths is a family-owned business that sells silver products. [5] (#cite_note-5) New Orleans Silversmiths' signature items are cocktail shakers, corkscrews, sterling silver animals and antique jewelry such as Fleur de Lis jewelry. [6] (#cite_note-6) For a brief time, the shop also sold fine silver bars, with a New Orleans Silversmiths hallmark, in 5, 10 and 25 ounce sizes. [7] (#cite_note-7) New Orleans Silversmiths Inc. is a member of Jewelers of America (/wiki/Jewelers_of_America) . [8] (#cite_note-Jewelers_of_America-8) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "New Orleans Silversmiths web site" (http://www.neworleanssilversmiths.com) . Retrieved 23 September 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) " (http://www.925-1000.com/Fgerman_hanau_marks_01.html) Online Encyclopedia of Silver Marks, Hallmarks & Makers' Marks : Hanau Pseudo Hallmarks" (http://www.925-1000.com/Fgerman_hanau_marks_01.html) . Retrieved 10 August 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "The First Otto F. Dingeldein Award" (http://www.semissourian.com/blogs/flynch/entry/56533/) . Southeast Missourian. January 3, 2014 . Retrieved 10 August 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) " (http://www.neworleansonline.com/directory/location.php?locationID=1705) New Orleans Silversmith , New Orleans Guide with map" (http://www.neworleansonline.com/directory/location.php?locationID=1705) . Retrieved 10 August 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Find a JA Jeweler | Jewelers of America" (https://www.jewelers.org/find-a-jeweler/member/new-orleans-silversmiths-inc-0001464) . www.jewelers.org . Retrieved 26 June 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "New Orleans' 4 best spots to splurge on antiques" (https://hoodline.com/2019/12/new-orleans-4-best-spots-to-splurge-on-antiques/) . hoodline.com . 2019-12-19 . Retrieved 26 June 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "New Orleans Silversmiths Vintage Silver Bar Examples" (https://vintagesilver.com/hallmark-library/new-orleans-silversmiths/) . Vintage Silver . Vintage Silver. ^ (#cite_ref-Jewelers_of_America_8-0) "Find a JA Jeweler | Jewelers of America" (https://www.jewelers.org/find-a-jeweler/member/new-orleans-silversmiths-inc-0001464) . www.jewelers.org . Retrieved 26 June 2021 . 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Kestos is a British lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) [1] (#cite_note-nationaltrustcollections-1) brand founded in London in 1925 by British designer Rosamund Lilian Klin, (1899-1949) the wife of a Russian artist living in London. [2] (#cite_note-google-2) Kestos' major innovation [3] (#cite_note-lingeriebriefs-3) to the feminine underwear in the 1930s was the development of the two separate cups model. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-thefreelibrary-5) Rosamund Klin, director of the Kestos Corset Company, started experimenting with a pair of hankies, just like Caresse Crosby (/wiki/Caresse_Crosby) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-smh-7) back in 1913. Kestos' bra was the first commercially produced brassiere (/wiki/Brassiere) that had two distinct and defined cups [8] (#cite_note-dollhousebettie-8) and "the Kestos" became a generic trademark bra. [9] (#cite_note-fashion-era-9) [10] (#cite_note-mirror-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) Kestos was distributed in the US, [12] (#cite_note-newyorker-12) UK, Canada, Australia, France as well as some other European countries [13] (#cite_note-museumoflondon-13) and was popular through the 1930s, 1940s and into the early 1950s. The Copmpany went into liquidation in 1967 prior to the death of the Chairman Leo Klin (1877-1967). [14] (#cite_note-google2-14) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-nationaltrustcollections_1-0) "Bra, Kestos 1364421 | National Trust Collections" (http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1364421) . nationaltrustcollections.org.uk . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-google_2-0) "The Sydney Morning Herald - Google News Archive Search" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1301&dat=19831127&id=LDFWAAAAIBAJ&sjid=qeYDAAAAIBAJ&pg=6210,5138402) . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-lingeriebriefs_3-0) "Vintage Bras Inspire Modern Lingerie Designers on Lingerie Briefs" (http://lingeriebriefs.com/2013/02/04/the-kestos-bralette-roars-back/) . lingeriebriefs.com. 4 February 2013 . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Where oh where is the underwear?" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/where-oh-where-is-the-underwear-1247766.html0) . Independent.co.uk (/wiki/Independent.co.uk) . 28 August 1997. ^ (#cite_ref-thefreelibrary_5-0) "100 years of the BRA; WE INVITE YOU TO RAISE YOUR CUPS AND TOAST.. - Free Online Library" (http://www.thefreelibrary.com/100+years+of+the+BRA%3B+WE+INVITE+YOU+TO+RAISE+YOUR+CUPS+AND+TOAST..-a0161777552) . thefreelibrary.com . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Conference paper (http://www.iffti.com/downloads/past_conferences/Ryerson,%202007/2.3-Proctor.pdf) iffti.com Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140202102424/http://www.iffti.com/downloads/past_conferences/Ryerson,%202007/2.3-Proctor.pdf) 2 February 2014 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-smh_7-0) "Hoorah for the bra!" (https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/blogs/style-files/hoorah-for-the-bra-20130508-2j735.html) . smh.com.au. 8 May 2013 . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-dollhousebettie_8-0) "Partial Coverage - The Kestos Brasierre: The First Of Its Kind" (http://www.dollhousebettie.com/index.php?option=com_myblog&Itemid=0&lang=en&show=180.) . dollhousebettie.com . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-fashion-era_9-0) Pauline Thomas. "Bra History - Bras and Girdles - A Fashion History" (http://www.fashion-era.com/bras_and_girdles.htm) . fashion-era.com . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-mirror_10-0) "100 Years of the Bra" (https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/100-years-of-the-bra-465414#.Ut0tZmQ1gxc) . Mirror Online. 9 April 2007 . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Lauren Olds (2001). "World War II and Fashion: The Birth of the New Look" (https://digitalcommons.iwu.edu/constructing/vol2/iss1/6/) . Constructing the Past . 2 (1). ^ (#cite_ref-newyorker_12-0) "The New Yorker Digital Edition : Dec 07, 1935" (http://archives.newyorker.com/?iid=17891&startpage=page0000145#folio=142) . archives.newyorker.com . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-museumoflondon_13-0) "Museum of London Blog Is that Aristoc or Kira sheer? » Museum of London Blog" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131203023110/http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/is-that-aristoc-or-kira-sheer/) . blog.museumoflondon.org.uk. Archived from the original (http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/is-that-aristoc-or-kira-sheer/) on 3 December 2013 . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-google2_14-0) Farrell-Beck, J.; Gau, C. (2002). Uplift: The Bra in America . University of Pennsylvania Press, Incorporated. p. 78. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780812218350 . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . Bibliography [ edit ] Uplift: The Bra in America, Jane Farrell-Beck, Colleen Gau, University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002 - Health & Fitness - 264 pages The Garden Book, Brian Castro, Giramondo Publishing, May 1, 2005 - Fiction - 324 pages The encyclopaedia of fashion, Georgina O'Hara Callan, H.N. Abrams, Oct 1, 1986 - Design - 272 pages The Story of Lingerie, Muriel Barbier, Shazia Boucher, Parkstone International, May 8, 2012 - Design - 272 pages This product (/wiki/Product_(business)) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Detail from La belle ferronnière (/wiki/La_belle_ferronni%C3%A8re) , school of Leonardo da Vinci (/wiki/Leonardo_da_Vinci) , 1490-96 A ferronnière ( [fɛʁ.ɔn.jɛʁ] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ) is a style of headband (/wiki/Headband) or fillet (/wiki/Fillet_(clothing)) that encircles the wearer's forehead, usually with a small jewel suspended in the centre. [1] (#cite_note-1) The original form of the headband was worn in late fifteenth-century Italy, and was rechristened a ferronnière at the time of its revival in the second quarter of the nineteenth century for both day and (more frequently) formal and evening wear. [2] (#cite_note-real-2) [3] (#cite_note-vook-3) Etymology [ edit ] The term ferronnière for describing such headbands was probably coined in the early nineteenth century. Merriam-Webster (/wiki/Merriam-Webster) date the earliest use of the term to 1831, [4] (#cite_note-4) and the Oxford English Dictionary (/wiki/Oxford_English_Dictionary) notes that their record of the earliest usage of the term is located in a mid-19th-century publication called World of Fashion . [5] (#cite_note-oed-5) Some sources suggest that the term was contemporary to the 1490s. [6] (#cite_note-tortora-6) [7] (#cite_note-ross-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) The ferronnière is often said to be named after a 1490s portrait attributed to the school of Leonardo da Vinci (/wiki/Leonardo_da_Vinci) , the La belle ferronnière (/wiki/La_belle_ferronni%C3%A8re) , where the sitter wears such an ornament. [2] (#cite_note-real-2) [3] (#cite_note-vook-3) [9] (#cite_note-viardot-9) [10] (#cite_note-crispino-10) However, this painting's title was assigned in the 18th century, [11] (#cite_note-silvestri-11) well after it was painted, under the erroneous assumption that it portrayed Madame Le Féron, a reputed mistress of Francis I of France (/wiki/Francis_I_of_France) ; or another mistress who was allegedly an iron merchant's wife. [9] (#cite_note-viardot-9) [10] (#cite_note-crispino-10) The literal translation of ferronnière in English is "female ironmonger;" the term was used for the wife or daughter of an ironmonger (/wiki/Ironmonger) . [10] (#cite_note-crispino-10) In their catalogue, the Louvre (/wiki/Louvre) suggest that La belle ferronnière was so-called because of her forehead ornament, a theory that is supported by other scholars, [11] (#cite_note-silvestri-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) but other sources conclude that the ornament was named after the painting, due to the term's specific application apparently not existing prior to the 19th century. [5] (#cite_note-oed-5) [9] (#cite_note-viardot-9) [10] (#cite_note-crispino-10) In fashion [ edit ] The original ornament that later became called a ferronnière was popular in 15th-century Italy, where it could be made from metal or jewels. [6] (#cite_note-tortora-6) The nineteenth-century ferronnière was worn from the late 1820s to the early 1840s, when it was considered to enhance a high forehead, and by the 1850s, it had fallen out of fashion. [2] (#cite_note-real-2) One contemporary source from 1831 describes the ferronnière as "a small plait of hair, adorned in the centre of the forehead by a large brilliant, from which depends another brilliant of the pear shape." [13] (#cite_note-13) It has been described as one of the most widely worn examples of historicism (/wiki/Historicism_(art)) in early Victorian fashion, worn as a tribute to the Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance) alongside beaded belts called cordelières inspired by medieval clothing (/wiki/Early_medieval_European_dress) and hairstyles named after historic women such as Agnès Sorel (/wiki/Agn%C3%A8s_Sorel) and Blanche of Castile (/wiki/Blanche_of_Castile) . [14] (#cite_note-flower-14) The ferronnière could be worn for either day or evening. [14] (#cite_note-flower-14) Alternative terms for similar ornaments were the bandelette and the tour de tête. [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) La Malibran (/wiki/Maria_Malibran) as Desdemona , François Bouchot (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Bouchot) , circa 1830 Portrait of Natalia Pushkina (/wiki/Natalia_Pushkina) , Alexander Brullov (/wiki/Alexander_Brullov) , 1831–1832 References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011). The complete costume dictionary . Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. p. 106. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780810840041 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Tetzeli von Rosador, Kurt (1984). "Gems and Jewellery in Victorian Fiction" (https://books.google.com/books?id=l0dKCaJiAuoC&pg=PA289) . The Yearbook of research in English and American literature . Tübingen: Narr. p. 289. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9783110098990 . Retrieved 18 April 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b Vookles, Laura (1986). The Jewelers' Eye: Nineteenth-century Jewelry in the Collection of Nancy and Gilbert Levine . Hudson River Museum. p. 102. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Definition of FERRONNIÈRE" (https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/ferronnière) . www.merriam-webster.com . Merriam-Webster . Retrieved 1 March 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Ferronière - definition of ferronière in English" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170301180350/https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/ferroniere) . Oxford Dictionaries . Oxford University Press. Archived from the original (https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/ferroniere) on March 1, 2017 . Retrieved 1 March 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b Tortora, Phyllis G.; Eubank, Keith (8 June 2009). Survey of Historic Costume . A&C Black. p. 192. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781563678066 . ^ (#cite_ref-ross_7-0) King, Ross (2012). Leonardo and the Last Supper . Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 293. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1408834275 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Boussel, Patrice (1980). Leonardo da Vinci . Secaucus, N.J.: Chartwell Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1555211038 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Viardot, Louis (1870). Wonders of Italian art . C. Scribner & Company. pp. 102 (https://archive.org/details/wondersitaliana01viargoog/page/n105) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Crispino, Enrica (2002). Leonardo. Ediz. inglese . Giunti Editore. p. 64. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9788809025486 . ^ Jump up to: a b de Silvestri, Paolo (2009). Leonardo, or the universal genius . ATS Italia Editrice. p. 52. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9788875718732 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Portrait de femme, dit La Belle Ferronnière" (http://cartelen.louvre.fr/cartelen/visite?srv=car_not_frame&idNotice=13835) . cartelen.louvre.fr (in French). Louvre Museum Official Website . Retrieved 1 March 2017 . La confusion a été facilitée par le bijou, appelé ferronnière, que le modèle porte sur le front. ^ (#cite_ref-13) The Atheneum, Volume 29 . 1831. p. 295. ^ Jump up to: a b Flower, Margaret (1973). Victorian Jewellery (2013 reprint) . Read Books Ltd. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781447483816 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) The Lady's Magazine and Museum . April 1833. p. 183. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Metz, Nancy Aycock (2001). The Companion to Martin Chuzzlewit . Helm Information Limited. p. 405. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781873403846 . The allusion is to a tour de tete, also known as a ferroniere, an oval or circular brow-ornament held in place by a thin chain. 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Cross-dressing and homosexuality events Gay balls , cross-dressing balls , pansy balls , or drag balls were (depending on the place, time, and type) public or private balls (/wiki/Ball_(dance_event)) that were celebrated mainly in the first third of the 20th century, where cross-dressing (/wiki/Cross-dressing) and ballroom dancing (/wiki/Ballroom_dancing) with same-sex partners (/wiki/Same-sex_relationship) was allowed. By the 1900s, the balls had become important cultural events for gays (/wiki/Gay_men) and lesbians, even attracting tourists. Their Golden Age (/wiki/Golden_Age) was during the interwar period (/wiki/Interwar_period) , mainly in Berlin (/wiki/Berlin) and Paris, even though they could be found in many big cities in Europe and the Americas, such as Mexico City (/wiki/Mexico_City) and New York City. Precedents [ edit ] "Molly" or "macaroni" from the 18th century By the end of the 17th century, a gay subculture (/wiki/Gay_subculture) is documented in Europe, with cruising (/wiki/Cruising_for_sex) areas, bars (/wiki/Gay_bar) , parties and balls, cross-dressers (/wiki/Cross-dresser) , and slang (/wiki/Gay_slang) . Scholars like Randolph Trumbach consider it is the moment when gay subculture appears in Europe. On the contrary, historian Rictor Norton (/wiki/Rictor_Norton) considers unlikely that such a subculture would appear fully formed, and thinks that it was actually the increase in surveillance and police procedures that brought to the surface an underground culture (/wiki/Underground_culture) that had not been visible up to that moment. [1] (#cite_note-RNorton-1) The archives of the Portuguese Inquisition (/wiki/Portuguese_Inquisition) in Lisbon preserve information of the so-called " danças dos fanchonos " from the beginning of the 17 century. [2] (#cite_note-2) About 1620, the " fachonos ", the baroque equivalent of modern drag queens (/wiki/Drag_queen) , organized big parties in the Gaia Lisboa , the gay Lisbon. These itinerant celebrations, called " escarramão ", or " esparramão ", used to include pantomimes (/wiki/Pantomime) with racy scenes, where some of the participants were dressed as women, and other as men. [3] (#cite_note-3) His Majesty's High Court in Mexico City (/wiki/Mexico_City) discovered in 1656 a similar case, when Juan Correa, an old man, over 70 years old, confessed that he had been committing the unspeakable vice since his childhood. Correa's house, in the outskirts of the city, had been used as a meeting point to celebrate balls, where many men dressed as women. [4] (#cite_note-4) Several studies have not found similar phenomena in the judicial cases in Aragon (/wiki/Aragon) , [5] (#cite_note-5) Catalonia (/wiki/Catalonia) , [6] (#cite_note-6) the Basque Country (/wiki/Basque_Country_(autonomous_community)) [7] (#cite_note-7) or Valencia (/wiki/Valencia) , [8] (#cite_note-8) even though in the Valencian case there are evidences of a subculture and a possible gay ghetto (/wiki/Gay_ghetto) . In Spain, cross-dressing was socially only allowed for carnival (/wiki/Carnival) , when even those closest to the king could dress as women. [9] (#cite_note-Godard-9) On the other hand, in France, during Louis XIV (/wiki/Louis_XIV_of_France) 's reign, no ball was complete without cross-dressers. [9] (#cite_note-Godard-9) By the end of the 17th century, there was a completely developed gay subculture in London, with the molly houses (/wiki/Molly_house) used as clubs, where gays met regularly to drink, dance and have fun. These taverns are well known thanks to the Mother Clap (/wiki/Mother_Clap) 's molly house scandal from 1726, when a police raid discovered that her molly house was a gay brothel. [1] (#cite_note-RNorton-1) Cross-dressing balls [ edit ] Hermann von Teschenberg (/wiki/Hermann_von_Teschenberg) (1866–1911) dressed as woman. Teschenberg, a cross-dresser, was one of the founders of the Scientific-Humanitarian Committee (/wiki/Scientific-Humanitarian_Committee) . Germany [ edit ] The Empire [ edit ] Berlin's clandestine gay underground can be followed up to the 18th century, in spite of the persecution gays were suffering. In Prussia (/wiki/Prussia) , Paragraph 143 of the penal code, and later the introduction of Paragraph 175 (/wiki/Paragraph_175) in the German penal code (/wiki/Strafgesetzbuch) , with other laws for public scandal, and child protection (/wiki/Child_protection) , made the life of gays extremely difficult. In fact, the activities of Magnus Hirschfeld (/wiki/Magnus_Hirschfeld) or the first homosexual movement (/wiki/First_homosexual_movement) could not avoid the regular police raids and closing of premises in the 1900s. And not just the premises were being watched by the police, in 1883, the moral police had 4799 "transvestite" and transgender (/wiki/Transgender) woman under vigilance, even though " permits (/wiki/Transvestite_certificate) " could be handed out to cross-dressers in cases considered "medical". [10] (#cite_note-AS1997-10) It is thus surprising that, beginning mid 19th century, the Urningsball or Tuntenball came to be, balls of uranians (/wiki/Uranian_(sexology)) , or queens, tolerated, but watched by the police. By the 1900s, these balls had achieved such a fame in Germany, that people from all around the country, and even foreign tourists, would travel to Berlin to participate. [10] (#cite_note-AS1997-10) These balls were celebrated in large ballrooms, as the Deutscher Kaiser, in the Lothringer Straße, or the Filarmonía, in the Bernburgstraße, the Dresdner Kasino, in the Dresdner Straße, or the Orpheum, in the Alter Jakobstraße 32. [11] (#cite_note-WT1984-11) For example, the Berliner Morgenpost (/wiki/Berliner_Morgenpost) described extensively on October 17, 1899, a gay ball that had taken place in the hotel König von Portugal, where balls were still being celebrated in 1918. [10] (#cite_note-AS1997-10) The ball season used to begin in October and go until Easter, with a frequency of several balls a week, sometimes two the same day. [11] (#cite_note-WT1984-11) Hirschfeld, in his book Berlins drittes Geschlecht (1904; "Berlín's Third Sex"), described the balls in following fashion: The innkeepers of uranian taverns, but certainly not just them, organize large urning balls, especially in the course of the winter, that, in their size and type, are a specialty of Berlin. Outstanding strangers, especially foreigners, who want to see something very special in the youngest European world-cities, are shown by higher officials [to these balls] as one of the most interesting sights. [...] During the high season from October to Easter, these balls are held several times a week, often even several a night. Even though the entrance fee is rarely less than 1.50 marks (/wiki/German_marks) , these events are usually well visited. Almost always, several secret policemen are present that make sure that nothing disgraceful happens; as far as I am informed, there was never any occasion to intervene. The organizers have the right to admit, if possible, only people who are known to them as homosexual. [note 1] (#cite_note-12) Some of the balls were especially well known, particularly those shortly after New Year, on which the new, often self-made dresses are presented. When I visited this ball last year with some medical colleagues, there were about 800 people participating. Around 10 o'clock in the evening, the large halls are still almost deserted. The rooms begin to fill only after eleven o'clock. Many visitors dress in formal or street suit, but many are costumed. Some appear densely masked in impenetrable dominoes (/wiki/Domino_mask) , they come and go without anyone knowing who they are; others reveal their faces at midnight, some come in fantastical costumes, a large part in evening gowns, some in simple, others in very elaborate toilets. I saw a South American man in a robe from Paris, its price had to be over 2,000 francs. [note 2] (#cite_note-13) Not few seem so feminine in their appearance and movements, that even connoisseurs find it hard to recognize the man. [...] Real women are only very sparse on these balls, only now and then does a uranist bring his landlady, a friend, or... his wife. In the case of the uranist, one does not proceed so strictly as on the analogous urninde balls, on which "real men" are strictly denied access. Most distasteful and repulsive [sight] on the balls are the not so infrequent gentlemen that, in spite of coming "as women", keep their stately mustaches or even a full-beard. The most beautiful costumes are greeted by a sign of the ceremony master with a thundering fanfare and guided by him through the hall. Between 12 and 1 o'clock the ball usually reaches its peak. At about 2 o'clock, the coffee break – the main source of income for the owner – takes place. In a few minutes, long tables are installed and layed, with several hundred people sitting at them; some humorous songs and dances of the attendant "lady imitators" season the conversation, then the cheerful activity continues until the early morning. [note 3] (#cite_note-14) — Magnus Hirschfeld, Berlins Drittes Geschlecht (1904), "Kapitel 3" As a consequence of the Harden–Eulenburg affair (/wiki/Harden%E2%80%93Eulenburg_affair) , and the subsequent social upheaval, the balls where prohibited; in 1910 they were allowed again, but they never achieved the splendor of this golden age. [11] (#cite_note-WT1984-11) The Weimar Republic [ edit ] After World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) the first mass movements for homosexuals appeared. The Freundschaftsbund , popular associations of gays and lesbians, dedicated an important part of their effort to socialization and diverse activities for their members such as excursions, visits, sports, and balls. For example, the club Kameradschaft ("camaraderie") organized on November 1, 1929, celebrating their anniversary, a Böser-Buben-Ball ("Bad Boys Ball"); the club reached 100 members, and survived until 1933. Kameradschaft tried to offer some support and activities for gays from lower extraction; so their balls were celebrated on weekends, Saturdays or Sundays, and gathered about 70 men, many without a job, who could pay the low entry price. [12] (#cite_note-AS21997-15) In 1922 the association Gesellschaftsklub Aleksander e.V. celebrated balls every day, beginning 7 o'clock p.m., with a quality orchestra. In 1927 the Bund für Menschenrecht (BfM) bought the Alexander-Palast, but that same year they changed to the Florida and the Tanz-Palast salon of the Zauberflöte, in the Kommandantenstraße 72, in Berlin. The BfM balls took place from Tuesdays to Sundays; the entry was free, but you had to pay 50 Pfennig (/wiki/Pfennig) for a dance card (/wiki/Dance_card) that allowed you to actually dance. [13] (#cite_note-WT19842-16) In the 1920s gay balls reached enormous sizes, with premises filling several ballrooms with some thousands of men. And not just in Berlin, several other cities in Germany organized smaller balls for gays. [12] (#cite_note-AS21997-15) The Eldorado of the Motzstraße, in Berlin, 1932. The sign includes their motto: "Hier ist's Richtig!". In the 1920s and 30s, there were uncountable bars, cafés, and dance halls in Berlin. The most elegant could be found in West Berlin (/wiki/West_Berlin) , near the area formed by the Bülowstraße, the Potsdamer Straße, and the Nollendorfplatz, reaching up to the Kurfürstendamm. [13] (#cite_note-WT19842-16) No doubt, the most famous was Eldorado, that really was two, one on the Lutherstraße, and a second one in the Motzstraße. [14] (#cite_note-AS31997-17) Curt Moreck (Konrad Haemmerling) described it in 1931, in his Führer durch das „lasterhafte" Berlin ("Guide through the 'dissolute' Berlin"), as "an establishment of transvestites (/wiki/Transvestite) staged for the morbid fascination of the world metropolis." The program at the Eldorado included loud and racy shows by drag queens (/wiki/Drag_queen) , addressed mostly to a heterosexual audience, that, now as then, wanted to "satisfy their curiosity, and dared to visit the mysterious and infamous Berlin". [15] (#cite_note-raber-18) Moreck continues, even though he himself was encouraging, and was part of this kind of voyeuristic (/wiki/Voyeur) tourism with his travel guide: A dance hall of a larger style, with an extremely elegant audience. Tuxedos and tailcoats, and full evening dresses – this is the normality that comes to observe here. The actors are present in large numbers. Bright posters are already luring at the entrance, and paintings, where the perversity mocks itself, decorate the corridor. At the wardrobe begins the swindle. "Here it's right!" [note 4] (#cite_note-19) A mysterious motto, that can mean anything. Everything is staged scenery, and only the worldly innocent believe in its authenticity. Even the real transvestites, who put their anomaly at the service of the business, become comedians here. Between the dances, where even the normal man can afford the naughty pleasure of dancing with an effeminate man in female dress, there are cabaret performances. A tomboy chanteuse sings with her shrill soprano voice ambiguous Parisian chansons. A very girlish revue (/wiki/Revue) star proceeds under the spotlight with female graceful pirouettes. He is naked except for the breast plates and a loincloth, and even this nakedness is deceptive, it still makes the spectators question, it still leaves doubts whether man, or woman. One of the most enchanting and elegant women present in the hall is often the dainty Bob, and there are enough men who, in the depths of their hearts, are sorry that he is not a girl, that nature, through an error, has deceived them of a delicate lover. [note 5] (#cite_note-20) — Curt Moreck (1931) [16] (#cite_note-moreck-21) Dance scene (dancing people in Eldorado) (1910), sketch by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner (/wiki/Ernst_Ludwig_Kirchner) (1880-1938) Eldorado became one of the nocturnal cultural centers in Europe. The establishment hosted from bank managers to members of parliament, as well as theater actors and movie stars. [17] (#cite_note-sachse-22) Among them, divas like Marlene Dietrich (/wiki/Marlene_Dietrich) , [18] (#cite_note-luetgens-23) often with her husband Rudolf Sieber (/w/index.php?title=Rudolf_Sieber&action=edit&redlink=1) , and Anita Berber (/wiki/Anita_Berber) , [18] (#cite_note-luetgens-23) singers like Claire Waldoff (/wiki/Claire_Waldoff) , [19] (#cite_note-24) and writers, like Wolfgang Cordan (/w/index.php?title=Wolfgang_Cordan&action=edit&redlink=1) , [20] (#cite_note-25) Egon Erwin Kisch (/wiki/Egon_Erwin_Kisch) , or Josef Hora (/wiki/Josef_Hora) . [21] (#cite_note-26) Magnus Hirschfeld (/wiki/Magnus_Hirschfeld) was well known there. [22] (#cite_note-27) The co-founder and commander of the SA (/wiki/Sturmabteilung) , Ernst Röhm (/wiki/Ernst_R%C3%B6hm) , [23] (#cite_note-28) was also a patron, and Karl Ernst (/wiki/Karl_Ernst) , later a nazi politician (/wiki/NSDAP) and Gruppenführer SA (/wiki/Gruppenf%C3%BChrer) , tried to survive for a time working —depending on the source— as a waiter, [24] (#cite_note-29) an employee, [25] (#cite_note-30) or a rent boy [26] (#cite_note-31) in the Eldorado of the Lutherstraße. The ballroom cum cabaret has been mentioned, directly or indirectly, serving as inspiration, in many literary works, as in Mr Norris Changes Trains (/wiki/Mr_Norris_Changes_Trains) (1935) and Goodbye to Berlin (/wiki/Goodbye_to_Berlin) (1939) by Christopher Isherwood (/wiki/Christopher_Isherwood) , or the memories of Erika (/wiki/Erika_Mann) , and Klaus Mann (/wiki/Klaus_Mann) . The atmosphere has been captured in paintings by Otto Dix (/wiki/Otto_Dix) , and Ernst Fritsch (/w/index.php?title=Ernst_Fritsch&action=edit&redlink=1) . [13] (#cite_note-WT19842-16) By the end of the 1920s, the German society had taken their image of homosexuals from this kind of establishment: decadent, refined, depraved, degenerate, tightly linked to drugs, wild sex, and prostitution. The Bund für Menschenrecht tried to distance gays of this kind of milieu in 1927, but to no avail. In 1932 the chancellor Franz von Papen (/wiki/Franz_von_Papen) started a campaign against the "depraved night of Berlin", and in October of that same year all balls for homosexuals were prohibited. [13] (#cite_note-WT19842-16) On January 30, 1933, the nazi party came to power, and on February 23, 1933, the Prussian Interior Minister ordered that all bars "that have abused [their permit] to promote immorality" be closed. He was referring specially to those "that are frequented by those who pay homage to the anti-natural immorality". On March 4, 1933, the Berliner Tagblatt informed about the closing of some establishments the day before. Of the over 100 establishments catering to homosexuals in Berlin very few survived, and those would be used to help watch and control the homosexual population. [27] (#cite_note-grau-32) France [ edit ] Drawing of a carnival ball about 1909, with the commentary "AU BAL DE LA MI-CARÊME". The drawing was done by Hungarian artist Miklós Vadász (/w/index.php?title=Mikl%C3%B3s_Vad%C3%A1sz&action=edit&redlink=1) , and shows a blushing rich man arm in arm with a young woman, herself kissing another man; on the left, what seems two to be men dancing together. The image was published in the number 422 of the anarchist magazine L'Assiette au Beurre (/wiki/L%27Assiette_au_Beurre) , titled Les p'tits jeun' hommes ("The little young men"), dedicated to the decadent aristocrats, and the effeminate kept men. In France, until the end of the 19th century, gays and lesbians met usually in private homes and literary salons (/wiki/Literary_salon) , hidden from the public, with the Opera Ball in Paris one of the few exceptions. The Opera Ball, celebrated yearly for carnival, allowed some small leeway. The first big public ball that allowed cross-dressing was the Bal Bullier in 1880, in the Avenue de l'Observatoire, followed by the Bal Wagram in 1910. [28] (#cite_note-Dictionnaire-33) After World War I, Paris became one of the nightlife centers in Europe, with focal points in Montmartre (/wiki/Montmartre) , Pigalle (/wiki/Quartier_Pigalle) , and Montparnasse (/wiki/Montparnasse) , and numerous short-lived bars catering to gays and lesbians, surviving between police raids, ruinous scandals, and the public's insatiable thirst for new thrills. Many establishments were also known for drug trafficking. [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) Journalist Willy (/wiki/Henry_Gauthier-Villars) described the atmosphere in the bar "The Petite Chaumière", catering to foreigners looking for strong sensations: [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) The pianist gives a prelude to a shimmy (/wiki/Shimmy) , and as if on cue the professionals who are paid to give the viewers a spectacle immediately latch onto one another. They ondulate more than dance, and thrust their pelvises obscenely, shimmying their bosoms and delicately grasping the legs of their trousers, which they raise above their shiny boots with each step forward, all the while winking at the customers. [note 6] (#cite_note-35) They wear very fine clothing, and some appear to have built up their chests with cotton wadding. Others wear low-cut kimonos, and one of them wears an Oriental costume all in silver lamé (/wiki/Lam%C3%A9_(fabric)) . [note 7] (#cite_note-36) — Willy, Le troisième sexe (1927), p.173-174 [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) A sign from the 1920s. Notice The Gentlemen are requested to: 1° No dancing with the hat on. 2° No dancing together. A proper outfit is strictly enforced. In the 1920s, there were several balls in the Bastille (/wiki/Bastille) area; these occurred mainly in the Rue de Lappe (/w/index.php?title=Rue_de_Lappe&action=edit&redlink=1) , where workers, drunken sailors, and colonial soldiers gathered to dance. It was not strictly a homosexual milieu, but men could dance together, and one could find a partner for the night. Daniel Guérin (/wiki/Daniel_Gu%C3%A9rin) described one of the dens as a place where "[...] workmen, prostitutes, society women, johns (/wiki/John_(prostitution)) , and aunties (/wiki/LGBT_slang) all danced. In those relaxed and natural days, before the cops took over France, a chevalier could go out in public with a mate of the same sex, without being considered crazy.» On the other hand, Willy presents a completely different aspect of the milieu, "What you see are little delinquents, not too carefully washed but heavily made up, with caps on their heads and sporting brightly colored foulards (/wiki/Foulard) ; these are the guys who, when they fail to make a buck here, will certainly be found hauling coal or other cargo." [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) The so-called bal de folles , and later bal de invertis , flourished in Paris after the I World War, and even in other French cities as Toulon (/wiki/Toulon) . In Paris, homosexuals were attracted mainly to the Bal Musette de la Montaigne de Sainte-Geneviève, in the number 46 of the Rue Montaigne de Sainte-Geneviève, where you could find gays and lesbians. [28] (#cite_note-Dictionnaire-33) [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) Later, the big balls for carnival attracted a gay public, as the one celebrated yearly in the Magic-City, in the rue de l'Université (/wiki/Rue_de_l%27Universit%C3%A9_(Paris)) , 180, inaugurated in 1920, and active until the prohibition on February 6, 1934. [28] (#cite_note-Dictionnaire-33) In time, the "Carnaval interlope" in Magic-City became a big event, visited by prominent vedette (/wiki/Vedette_(cabaret)) from the varietés (/wiki/Variet%C3%A9) , like Mistinguett (/wiki/Mistinguett) , or Joséphine Baker (/wiki/Jos%C3%A9phine_Baker) , that handed over awards to the best drag queens (/wiki/Drag_queen) . The Bal Wagram offered the opportunity to cross-dress twice a year; at 1 am, the drag queens did the pont aux travestis , a costume competition, doing the catwalk in front of the most selected people of Paris, that came to walk on the wild side for a night. [28] (#cite_note-Dictionnaire-33) The drag queens participating came from all walks of life, and ages, and presented a savage satire of the society, its values, and its traditional hierarchies, with images of exaggerated femininity, and masculinity: countesses dressed in crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) , crazy virgins, oriental dancers, sailors, ruffians, or soldiers; theirs names were correspondingly colorful: Duchess of the Bubble, the Infante Eudoxie, the Mauve Mouse; the Dark One, Sweetie Pie, Fréda, the Englishwoman, Mad Maria, the Muse, the Teapot, the She-wolf, Sappho, Wet Cat, Little Piano, Princess of the Marshes, Marguerite if Burgundy, etc. [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) Charles Étienne (/wiki/Charles_%C3%89tienne) , in his novel Notre-Dame-de-Lesbos , describes "Didine" in following fashion: Stuffed into a yellow brocade (/wiki/Brocade) dress, wearing a red wig topped by a trembling tiara of paste, the dress low-cut and in the back naked to the waist, revealing the physique of a prize fighter, a man climbed the staircase, twisting adroitly and with meticulous gestures lifting the long train of her skirts. — Charles Étienne, Notre-Dame-de-Lesbos ; translation Tamagne (2006) [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) Many of the onlookers just went to insult and harass the gay people participating, as Charles Étienne describes in his novel Le Bal des folles : [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) After the bruising attack outside, here the reception was more restrained, but quite as bitter, inside. All along the balustrade, clusters of people perched, climbed, and packed together to the point of smothering, raised a mocking jeer: two hundred heads with eyes flaming and mouths hurling insults [...] a Greek chorus of poisonous epithets, ridicule, and slurs [...] — Charles Étienne, Le Bal des folles ; translation Tamagne (2006) [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) England [ edit ] Front page of the tabloid (/wiki/Tabloid_journalism) The Illustrated Police News (/wiki/The_Illustrated_Police_News) on the week of the raid at Temperance Hall, in Hulme (/wiki/Hulme) , Manchester [30] (#cite_note-TVV150607-37) There are at least two instances of cross-dressing balls that have been documented in England. The first one was known through a police raid of a ball celebrated in the Temperance Hall, in the Hulme (/wiki/Hulme) area of Manchester (/wiki/Manchester) . On September 24, 1880, the Chief Constable of Manchester received anonymous information about an event "of an immoral character" that was about to take place in the Temperance Hall of Hulme. The detective Jerome Caminada (/wiki/Jerome_Caminada) was dispatched with police constables to observe the ball and make any necessary arrests. [30] (#cite_note-TVV150607-37) [31] (#cite_note-wordpress1-38) Of the 47 men that congregated, all wore fancy dress costumes, 22 as women; a pair was dressed as Henry VIII (/wiki/Henry_VIII) and Anne Boleyn (/wiki/Anne_Boleyn) , and another as Romeo and Juliet (/wiki/Romeo_and_Juliet) . The windows of the Temperance Hall had mostly been blacked out and so Detective Caminada and his constables had to observe the ball from a neighbouring rooftop. Caminada reported that the ball had begun at 9.00 pm, that dancing had commenced at around 10.00 pm and that every now and then, a couple disappeared into a side room. Just after 1.00 am, mindful that some guests had started to leave, Caminada gained entry to the ball by giving the password "sister" in an effeminate manner to a doorman dressed as a nun. After the door was opened, the police raided the building, and detained all participants. [30] (#cite_note-TVV150607-37) [31] (#cite_note-wordpress1-38) The trial showed that some of the revellers were not from Manchester and were regulars of similar balls that were organized in several cities, as Leeds (/wiki/Leeds) , or Nottingham (/wiki/Nottingham) . The men were bound over to keep the peace on two sureties of £25 each, a significant sum. Some were unable to pay it and ended up in prison as a result. All the arrested men had their names, addresses and professions published widely. LGBT History Month (/wiki/LGBT_History_Month) in the UK commissioned Stephen M Hornby and Ric Brady to write a three-part play about the ball as part of the first OUTing The Past festival in 2015 in Manchester. The play was called "A Very Victorian Scandal" [32] (#cite_note-39) and Dr Jeff Evans acted as the Historical Adviser to the writers. [33] (#cite_note-40) Dr. Matt Houlbrook, of the University of Liverpool (/wiki/University_of_Liverpool) , affirms that in the 1920s and 30s, cross-dressing balls were being held secretly almost every weekend, gathering 50 to 100 men. And this, in spite of it being illegal, and being a big personal risk for those participating: they didn't just risk prison, if found out, they could lose their livelihood, be isolated socially, and finally suffer a nervous breakdown, or try suicide. In 1933 headlines informed about "Lady Austin's Camp Boys" scandal. [34] (#cite_note-branigan2004-41) [35] (#cite_note-transpontine1-42) The affair began when 60 men were detained in a private ball room, in Holland Park Avenue (/wiki/Holland_Park_Avenue) , in London, after cross-dressing police officers had been watching them dancing, made up, dressed as women, and having sex. Twenty-seven men were arrested, and convicted between 3 and 20 months of jail. Even so, many stood up for their behavior, notoriously Lady Austin, who said "There is nothing wrong [in who we are]. You call us nancies and bum boys but before long our cult will be allowed in the country." [34] (#cite_note-branigan2004-41) [35] (#cite_note-transpontine1-42) Spain [ edit ] Mid 19th century, during the reign of Isabella II (/wiki/Isabella_II_of_Spain) , appeared the sociedades de baile , "ball societies", mostly groups of young people that tried to rent some premises to organize a ball; but there were also other, more elegant, or pretentious, that rented theaters for their balls. The ball societies exclusively catering to gays appeared shortly after, mainly in Madrid (/wiki/Madrid) , and Barcelona (/wiki/Barcelona) , as there were no special requirements to create one, and could be established, and broken up very easily. The most important ball society for the "Uranian flock" met at the El Ramillete, in the calle Alvareda, in Madrid, where you could count "over a hundred sodomites (/wiki/Sodomy) with elegant suits, and rich jewelry". In Barcelona, later, during the regency of Maria Christina (/wiki/Maria_Christina_of_Austria) , the biggest number of gay dancers met at the Liceo Rius. [36] (#cite_note-PF1999-43) [37] (#cite_note-FVG2011-44) The dancing public was of all types, but mainly transvestites and young men of the working class – workers of trade and commerce, workshop apprentices, and servants – for whom the balls were the highest point of their lives: exploited by their employers, and frightened of being discovered by the society. The balls allowed them to forget their situation for a couple of hours, express themselves with freedom, mingle with their equals, and, with a little luck, meet someone. Other, less fortunate, as was the case for transvestites, effeminate men, and chulitos de barrio , neighborhood thugs, without a job, or rejected by their families, they used the balls to find their first time customers. For carnival, huge balls were celebrated, and the boys spend the whole year preparing their costumes for that important day. [36] (#cite_note-PF1999-43) At the beginning of the 20th century, all these balls had already disappeared, and were just a memory of the past, as recounts the author Max Bembo (/w/index.php?title=Max_Bembo&action=edit&redlink=1) in his book, La mala vida en Barcelona ("The Bad Life in Barcelona"): "I could not find in the homosexualism of Barcelona the appearance it used to have; the parties where the baptism of homosexuals were celebrated; the very scandalous balls; the sardanapalic (/wiki/Sardanapalus) festivities, the shame of the city". It's very probable that the disappearance of these public balls was due to the application of laws of public indecency (/wiki/Public_indecency) , and the consequent withdrawal of the homosexual life into private residencies, and clubs. [37] (#cite_note-FVG2011-44) [36] (#cite_note-PF1999-43) United States [ edit ] Stag dance [ edit ] Cowboy stag dance from about 1910 During the 19th century, in the United States, mainly in the Great West Frontier (/wiki/American_frontier) , there were many towns where women were few and far between. So, for cowboys (/wiki/Cowboy) , miners (/wiki/Miner) , loggers (/wiki/Lumberjack) , mountain men (/wiki/Mountain_men) or railroad workers, it was very difficult to find a woman, and marry. In these groups, men often formed intimate friendships, that sometimes ended in real love stories, that were accepted as a fact of life. It is difficult to know up to what point this was simply due to the lack of women, or if precisely this kind of life attracted those men that preferred the company of other men. [38] (#cite_note-BGB2007-45) In this environment, and in the military, [note 8] (#cite_note-46) is where the stag dances developed, and where men danced with each other, without it having any special meaning. Beemyn talks about the stag dances celebrated in San Francisco during the gold rush (/wiki/California_Gold_Rush) , in 1849, similar to frontier celebrations called Rocky Mountain Rendezvous (/wiki/Rocky_Mountain_Rendezvous) . Thousands of young men arrived to the city from all continents, converting a small frontier town into an amusement city, where everything was possible. Thanks to the lack of women, and prejudices, men had fun with each other, also dancing. In these balls, the men that took the role of the woman usually wore a handkerchief knotted around their arm, but there were also those that dressed as women. [38] (#cite_note-BGB2007-45) Drag ball [ edit ] Further information: Pansy Craze (/wiki/Pansy_Craze) A drag ball at a private home in Portland (/wiki/Portland,_Oregon) , Oregon in the 1900s Drag balls in the United States can trace their origins to the debutante balls (/wiki/Debutante_balls) , quadroon balls (/wiki/Pla%C3%A7age#Quadroon_Balls_of_New_Orleans) , and costume parties (/wiki/Costume_party) at the end of the 19th century. In the beginning, they were simple parties where men dressed as women, and women dressed as men could go, and where two men could dance with each other. The first recorded drag ball was the Hamilton Lodge Ball (/wiki/Hamilton_Lodge_Ball) in 1869. [39] (#cite_note-47) [40] (#cite_note-:2-48) There are records of more exclusive balls by the 1880s, where homosexuals – men and women – could be counted in the hundreds, up to 500 same sex couples, that slowly waltzed the night away at the sound of an excellent orchestra. [41] (#cite_note-MW2011-49) [42] (#cite_note-GC1994-50) In the 1920s these balls had already become big social events in the gay and lesbian world, where —mainly men— competed for the best costume. Often, they included a "parade of the fairies", to show the costumes, and the participants with the most spectacular gowns received a prize, in the form of money. The judges often were personalities from literature, and the show business. It was mainly in the black communities of New York City, Chicago, Baltimore (/wiki/Baltimore) , and New Orleans (/wiki/New_Orleans) where these balls took place, sometimes bringing in white party-goers. [41] (#cite_note-MW2011-49) [42] (#cite_note-GC1994-50) In Manhattan, these balls got to have official permits (/wiki/LGBT_culture_in_New_York_City) , and police protection, and security, in places like the Webster Hall (/wiki/Webster_Hall) , and the Madison Square Garden (/wiki/Madison_Square_Garden) , the Astor Hotel (/wiki/Astor_House) , the Manhattan Casino (/w/index.php?title=Manhattan_Casino&action=edit&redlink=1) (later called Rockland Palace (/w/index.php?title=Rockland_Palace&action=edit&redlink=1) ), The Harlem Alhambra (/wiki/The_Harlem_Alhambra) , and the Savoy Ballroom (/wiki/Savoy_Ballroom) in the Black Harlem (/wiki/Black_Harlem) , and the New Star Casino (/w/index.php?title=New_Star_Casino&action=edit&redlink=1) , in the Italian Harlem (/wiki/Italian_Harlem) . The planners of these balls became well known: H. Mann in the 1910s, Kackie Mason in the 1920s, and 30s, Phil Black in the 1930s to 60s, were celebrated in many a novel. [41] (#cite_note-MW2011-49) [42] (#cite_note-GC1994-50) In 1933 they were described as: On the floor of the hall, in every conceivable sort of fancy dress, men quaver and palpitate in each other's embrace. Many of the "effeminate" are elaborately coiffured, in the powdered head dresses of the period of Madame Pompadour (/wiki/Madame_Pompadour) . They wear billowy, ballooning skirt of that picturesque pre-guillotine era [... O]thers wear the long, tight-fitting gowns which were a recent vogue [... while] still others wear the long, trailing skirts and the constricting corsets of the 1880s—yards of elaborately furbelowed (/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)) material, frou-frouing behind them, when space permits. — op. cit. Chauncey (1994) A drag ball from the 1920s, celebrated in the Webster Hall (/wiki/Webster_Hall) , in Greenwich Village (/wiki/Greenwich_Village) , Lower Manhattan (/wiki/LGBT_culture_in_New_York_City) The most famous drag ball was the Masquerade and Civic Ball (/w/index.php?title=Masquerade_and_Civic_Ball&action=edit&redlink=1) —also known as "Faggots Ball" or "Fairies Ball"—, in Upper Manhattan (/wiki/Upper_Manhattan) 's Harlem (/wiki/Harlem) . The Masquerade and Civic Ball was celebration held every two years, beginning in 1869, organized by the Grand United Order of Odd Fellows (/wiki/Grand_United_Order_of_Odd_Fellows) , an afro-American association independent of other American fraternal orders (/wiki/Fraternal_order) that did not accept black men. The ball was enormously popular, attracting even white public, but that didn't stop critics, and hecklers. And in spite of there being racial tensions, gender restrictions —two men could only dance together if one of them was dressed as a woman—, and class barriers, these balls became some of the few places where black and white people could socialize, and homosexuals might even find some romance. [41] (#cite_note-MW2011-49) So, one day a year, the "faggots", mainly the effeminates, didn't have to hide, had a place where they could feel free, leave behind their apprehension, and embrace fun without fear. In a world where homosexuals were harassed, and despised routinely, the possibility to see several thousands of them together celebrating themselves, interacting with their equals, allowed the creation of an extensive network, and an underground of mutual help. The balls were a central piece in the lives of many gays: the gowns were prepared for months before, and whatever happened there, the gossip was discussed for months after. [42] (#cite_note-GC1994-50) Mainly the smaller balls were the objective of police raids, that sometimes arrested those participating. To justify the arrests, they used a law from 1846 that prohibited being in disguise in public, even though it had practically only been used since the change of the century to harass transvestites. Drag balls celebrated in private establishments, and homes, even though they were somewhat safer, also were often visited by the police. By the 1930s the tension with the police had extended to the balls with official permit, signaling a change in the social mores that finally had the two last grand balls in the season 1930–31 canceled. [42] (#cite_note-GC1994-50) The balls entered a definitive decadence after the derogation of the Prohibition (/wiki/Prohibition_in_the_United_States) in 1933, with the libertine culture of the speakeasies (/wiki/Speakeasy) , where cross-dressing was allowed, disappearing with it. [41] (#cite_note-MW2011-49) Latin America [ edit ] Dance of the Forty-One [ edit ] Drawing of the Dance of the Forty-One Faggots, Mexico, c. 1901 In Mexico, the country's biggest scandal (/wiki/Scandal) at the turn of the twentieth century was the so-called " Dance of the Forty-One (/wiki/Dance_of_the_Forty-One) " or "Dance of the Forty-One Faggots". [43] (#cite_note-Monsiváis-51) [44] (#cite_note-Cabrera-52) It refers to a police raid on November 18, 1901, during the government of Porfirio Díaz (/wiki/Porfirio_D%C3%ADaz) , on a private home, situated in the calle de la Paz (nowadays calle Ezequiel Montes (/wiki/Ezequiel_Montes_Municipality) ), where at that moment a group of 41 men, 22 dressed as men, and 19 as women, were celebrating a ball. The Mexican press mocked cruelly the dancers, even as the government tried to cover up the incident, as many of the participants belonged to the higher echelons of the porfirian (/wiki/Porfiriato) society. The list of names was never revealed. [43] (#cite_note-Monsiváis-51) [44] (#cite_note-Cabrera-52) On Sunday night, at a house on the fourth block of Calle la Paz, the police burst into a dance attended by 41 unaccompanied men wearing women's clothes. Among those individuals were some of the dandies seen every day on Calle Plateros. They were wearing elegant ladies' dresses, wigs, false breasts, earrings, embroidered slippers, and their faces were painted with highlighted eyes and rosy cheeks. When the news reached the street, all forms of comments were made and the behavior of those individuals was subjected to censure. We refrain from giving our readers further details because they are exceedingly disgusting. [note 9] (#cite_note-53) — Contemporary press report. [44] (#cite_note-Cabrera-52) Even though the raid did not have any legal grounds, and was completely arbitrary, the 41 detained men ended up forcefully conscripted into the military: The derelicts, petty thieves, and effeminates sent to Yucatán are not in the battalions of the Army fighting against the Maya Indians, but have been assigned to public works in the towns retaken from the common enemy of civilization. [note 10] (#cite_note-54) — El Popular , 25 November 1901 [43] (#cite_note-Monsiváis-51) [45] (#cite_note-Sifuentes-Jáuregui-55) The number 41 (or 42, as it was rumored that Ignacio de la Torre, Porfirio Díaz's son-in-law, had escaped) became part of Mexico's popular culture as a way to refer to homosexuals, passive (/wiki/Bottom_(sex)) homosexuals for the number 42. [46] (#cite_note-glbtq_México-56) The incident and the numbers were spread through press reports, but also through engravings, satires, plays, literature, and paintings; in recent years, they have even appeared on television, in the historical telenovela (/wiki/Telenovela) El vuelo del águila (/wiki/El_vuelo_del_%C3%A1guila) , first broadcast by Televisa (/wiki/Televisa) in 1994. In 1906 Eduardo A. Castrejón (/w/index.php?title=Eduardo_A._Castrej%C3%B3n&action=edit&redlink=1) published a book titled Los cuarenta y uno. Novela crítico-social . José Guadalupe Posada (/wiki/Jos%C3%A9_Guadalupe_Posada) 's engravings alluding to the affair are famous, and were frequently published alongside satirical verses: [44] (#cite_note-Cabrera-52) Engraving from Guadalupe Posada illustrating the poem to the left Aqui están los maricones muy chulos y coquetones. Hace aún muy pocos días Que en la calle de la Paz, Los gendarmes atisbaron Un gran baile singular. Cuarenta y un lagartijos Disfrazados la mitad De simpáticas muchachas Bailaban como el que más. La otra mitad con su traje, Es decir de masculinos, Gozaban al estrechar A los famosos jotitos. Vestidos de raso y seda Al último figurín, Con pelucas bien peinadas Y moviéndose con chic. Here are the Faggots very Pretty and Coquettish. It has only been a few days that on La Paz street, the police came upon a grand and peculiar dance. Forty-one lizards half of whom were disguised as cute girls were dancing with much gusto. The others with their suits, that is, masculine attire, enjoyed hugging the famous little faggots. Dressed in taffeta and silk in the latest style, with well-coiffed wigs and moving with chic . —anonymous —translation by Sifuentes-Jáuregui (2002) [45] (#cite_note-Sifuentes-Jáuregui-55) Argentina [ edit ] See also: Queer Tango (/wiki/Queer_Tango) Several men dancing the tango (/wiki/Tango_(dance)) on the banks of the Río de la Plata (/wiki/R%C3%ADo_de_la_Plata) , 1904. The Argentine tango (/wiki/Argentine_tango) , as a dance, was developed by the end of the 20th century among men, and by men that danced with other men in streets and brothels (/wiki/Brothel) : The society that begins to dance tango was mainly male, and thus, in public, it was danced by two men only, as the [Catholic] church applied its morals (/wiki/Catholic_moral_theology) , and did not allow the union of a man and a woman in this type of dance [...] The Pope Pius X (/wiki/Pope_Pius_X) banished it, the Kaiser (/wiki/Kaiser) outlawed it to his officers. [note 11] (#cite_note-57) — Juliana Hernández Berrío: El Tango nació para ser bailado. [47] (#cite_note-58) At the beginning of the 1910s the tango was discovered by Europeans, and became fashionable in Paris, but as a dance between man and woman, in a more "decent" style, without " cortes y quebradas (/wiki/Tango) ". Historical postcards of the 1920s and 30s also show women dancing tango. But these postcards come from cabarets (/wiki/Cabaret) in Paris, and have a particularly masculine, and voyeur (/wiki/Voyeur) accent. [48] (#cite_note-Marinnas-59) According to several testimonies, clandestine cross-dressing balls were very popular among middle and upper class gay men in Buenos Aires in the early-to-mid 20th century. [49] (#cite_note-60) Rio Carnival [ edit ] In Brazil, homosexuality was legalized in 1830, and kept it legal in the new penal code of 1890. But there were many different laws about public indecency (/wiki/Public_indecency) , vagrancy (/wiki/Rogue_(vagrant)) , transvestism (/wiki/Transvestism) , or " libertine (/wiki/Libertine) " behavior that were used to control, and repress homosexuals. [50] (#cite_note-glbtq_Brasil-61) But once a year, during the Carnival (/wiki/Brazilian_Carnival) , the social mores relaxed, allowing transvestism, and dancing among men —and women—, beginning in the 1930s. The costumes in the Rio Carnival (/wiki/Rio_Carnival) became more and more elaborate, and a jury begun to give prizes to the best; these shows evolved into full balls, where only 10% of the dancers were dressed as drag queens (/wiki/Drag_queen) . [51] (#cite_note-glbtq_Río_de_Janeiro-62) Russia [ edit ] There are reports of gay balls ( baly zhenonenavistnikov , literally "balls of woman-haters") in Russia before the I World War, specifically in Moscow. These balls, even though they were celebrated in the zhenonenavistnik (" woman-haters (/wiki/Misogyny) ") subculture, a hyper-masculine group of homosexuals, also accepted cross-dressers. [52] (#cite_note-DH2013-63) Members of a clandestine gay group in Petrograd, in 1921 In 2013 a photograph (to the right) was published for the first time: it depicts a group of cross-dressed men from Petrograd (/wiki/Petrograd) that were celebrating a drag party on February 15, 1921, during the first years of the Soviet regime (/wiki/Soviet_regime) . The photo was taken by the forensic experts of the police that had raided the party being held in a private apartment, after receiving an anonymous tip-off about "antinatural activities" in a house in the Simeon street, number 6. Ninety-eight sailors, soldiers, and civilians were arrested —even though sodomy had been legalized in 1917. [53] (#cite_note-outloudmag1921-64) [52] (#cite_note-DH2013-63) They had met to celebrate a "transvestite wedding", many dressed in feminine gowns, "Spanish dresses", and "white wigs", to dance the waltz (/wiki/Waltz) and the minuet (/wiki/Minuet) , and socialize with other men. The responsible Justice Commissar justified the raid saying that a public show of homosexual tendencies could endanger "non mature personalities". Even though none of the participants were condemned, the owner of the apartment was accused of running a brothel, according to article 171 of the Soviet penal code (/w/index.php?title=Soviet_penal_code&action=edit&redlink=1) , a felony that could be punished with up to three years of prison, and confiscation of all, or some of the property. [53] (#cite_note-outloudmag1921-64) [52] (#cite_note-DH2013-63) Lesbian balls [ edit ] Two women dancing the waltz (c. 1892) by Toulouse Lautrec (/wiki/Toulouse_Lautrec) Balls for lesbians were also quite common, even though not so much as male ones. Not only were they less in number, but there is less information about them, a problem common to all lesbian history (/wiki/Lesbian_history) . On the other hand, in western societies, two women dancing together publicly is still acceptable nowadays, and can be done without any suspicions of lesbianism. In Mexico, on December 4, 1901, shortly after the raid to the Dance of the Forty-One, there was also a police raid of a lesbian ball in Santa María, but the incident had a much smaller social impact than the male equivalent. [46] (#cite_note-glbtq_México-56) Hirschfeld, in his book Berlins drittes Geschlecht (1904), talks also about lesbian balls: In a big hall, where the uranians celebrate their balls, every week there is an equivalent evening ball for uranierinnen (/wiki/Lesbian) , most of whom participate in men's clothing. Most homosexual women can be found at the same spot every year on the costume ball a lady from Berlin organizes. The ball is not public, but usually only accessible those that are known to one of the ladies on the committee. One of the participants drafts following portrayal: "On a beautiful winter evening, after 8 p.m., cars and cars drive in front of one of the first hotels in Berlin, where ladies and gentlemen descent in costumes of all countries, and epochs. Here you can see a dashing fraternity student (/wiki/Studentenverbindung) with a prominent dueling scar (/wiki/Dueling_scar) , there a slim rococo (/wiki/Rococo) gentleman helps gallantly his lady out of the equipage. More and more people fill the brightly lit rooms; now a fat Capuchin (/wiki/Order_of_Friars_Minor_Capuchin) enters, to whom bow gypsies, Pierrots (/wiki/Pierrot) , sailors, clowns, bakers, lansquenets (/wiki/Lansquenet) , smart officers, ladies and gents in riding gear, Boers (/wiki/Boer) , Japanese, and delicate Geishas (/wiki/Geisha) . A Carmen (/wiki/Carmen) with fire in her eyes burns a jockey, a passionately hot Italian befriends intimately a snow man. The in brightest colors [dressed] dazzling, happy multitude offers a unique, attractive tableau. The participating women first strengthen themselves on tables decorated with flowers. The director, in a charming velvet jacket, welcomes the guests in a short, sharp speech. Then, the tables are cleared. The " Danubian waves (/wiki/Waltz) " sound, and accompany the happy dancing couples, that turn the night away in circles. From the neighboring rooms you can hear clear laughter, the clinking of glasses, and animated singing, but nowhere – wherever you look – are the limits of a fine, elegant fancy-dress ball overstepped. No discordant note tarnishes the general happiness, until the last participants leave the place in the dull crepuscular lights of a cold February morning, where for a few hours they could dream themselves as that what they are inside, among those that share their feelings. [note 12] (#cite_note-65) — Magnus Hirschfeld, Berlins Drittes Geschlecht (1904), "Kapitel 3" Later in Germany, the "bowling club" Die lustige Neun ("The Funny Nine""), created in Berlin in 1924, continued organizing lesbian balls with 200 to 300 women at least until April 1940. It is unknown if the balls, known thanks to the descriptions in the Gestapo (/wiki/Gestapo) files, continued throughout the war years; fact is, the track is lost. [54] (#cite_note-66) Later development [ edit ] From the World War II to Stonewall in Europe [ edit ] In Switzerland, even with many difficulties, the homosexual movement kept its structures over the war. The Circle (/wiki/Der_Kreis) , a gay magazine, organized weekly club evenings in Zürich (/wiki/Z%C3%BCrich) , that only subscribers could visit. Several elaborate systems were used to secure the anonymity of the participants, and only " Rolf (/wiki/Karl_Meier) ", the editor of the magazine, had the names and addresses of everyone. For spring, summer, and fall big balls were organized, and there was also a big costume ball for carnival. An important effort was done to keep everything decent, respectable, and contained, and Rolf made sure that no man under 20 was present. This secrecy mentality was no longer acceptable to gays by the mid-1960s, and in 1967 the magazine and its organization disappeared. [55] (#cite_note-67) In France, during the occupation of Paris (/wiki/Occupation_of_Paris) , all balls were prohibited, a situation that did not change after the allies (/wiki/Allies_of_World_War_II) entered the city. [28] (#cite_note-Dictionnaire-33) During the war, the only possibility was to meet in the outskirts of Paris, as gays did on the Christmas Eve of 1935, when hundreds of men traveled 50 km in a bus from Paris to celebrate the traditional dinner. [29] (#cite_note-FT2006-34) After the war, the only possibility was to travel by train to the Bal de la Chervrière, in L'Étang-la-Ville (/wiki/L%27%C3%89tang-la-Ville) , Yvelines, an establishment owned by a lesbian, "la Colonelle", that had been part of the resistance (/wiki/Resistance_(France)) , and had enough contacts to keep her place open. [28] (#cite_note-Dictionnaire-33) The situation improved with the reopening of the Bal de la montaigne de Sainte-Geneviève in 1954, organized by Georges Anys, who would keep it open until the 1960s. Possibly the most important ball was the one celebrated every Sunday evening by the magazine and association Arcadie (/wiki/Arcadie) , the Cespala (Club littéraire et scientifique des pays latins), in the number 9 of the Rue Béranger, reserved exclusively to the members of the club. [28] (#cite_note-Dictionnaire-33) There was a short revival of the gay pre-war scene after the war in Germany. The Walterchens Ballhaus organized drag balls already in 1946, and the parties at Prince Sasha (/w/index.php?title=Alexander_Kropotkin&action=edit&redlink=1) 's were one of the centers of gay nightlife. In Frankfurt (/wiki/Frankfurt) , in 1949 reopened the bar Fellsenkeller; the bar had a police permit that allowed men to dance together. By the beginning of the 1950s this revival had been thoroughly eliminated, and gay subculture had disappeared. [56] (#cite_note-68) After the war, Amsterdam (/wiki/Amsterdam) became something of a gay mecca (/wiki/Gay_mecca) : the biggest gay dance hall in Europe was DOK (De Odeon Kelder), initially belonging to the COC (/wiki/COC_Nederland) (Cultuur en Ontspanningscentrum, "Center for Culture and Leisure"), it became independent under the direction of Lou Charité three years after. The COC opened then another dance club, De Shakel ("The Chain Link"). The city was quite accepting of these clubs, and gay men from all around the world traveled there for the opportunity to dance freely with other men. [57] (#cite_note-69) The struggles of the homophile movement (/wiki/Homophile_movement) to resist the pressure of society and the authorities, trying to gain respectability, and acceptance by passing (/wiki/Passing_(sociology)) , but at the same time tying to accommodate the need to socialize, and vent for gay men, can be illustrated by the Café 't Mandje (/wiki/Caf%C3%A9_%27t_Mandje) : a small den in gay-accepting Amsterdam's Red-Light District (/wiki/De_Wallen) , where prostitutes, pimps, seamen, gays and lesbians came openly together, allowed the dancing of two men only on the Queen's Birthday (/wiki/Koningsdag) , once a year, as it did not have a dancing license. [58] (#cite_note-70) Another example is the origin of the Balletti Verdi affair ("green ballet" [note 13] (#cite_note-71) ): a series of private parties in Castel Mella (/wiki/Castel_Mella) , organized by two homosexuals for their friends, became a political scandal of enormous proportions in the Province of Brescia (/wiki/Province_of_Brescia) in 1960 when it was discovered that minors —between 18 and 21 years old— had participated. Additionally, the fact that there had been some prostitution going on had disastrous consequences for all the participants, most of them innocent, and ended with three suicides, one man fleeing the city, and many losing their jobs. A subsequent witch hunt (/wiki/Witch_hunt) against gays in Italy covered the whole land. [59] (#cite_note-72) [60] (#cite_note-73) As late as 1973, in the last years of Franco's dictatorship (/wiki/Franco%27s_dictatorship) , ten men were arrested in Sitges (/wiki/Sitges) , Spain, for going out dancing in women's clothes. The press published their photos in drag, and made snide comments for days, calling them all kinds of names. [61] (#cite_note-74) [62] (#cite_note-75) Ball culture [ edit ] In the U.S., cross-dressing balls evolved into the ballroom community (/wiki/Ballroom_community) , or ball culture (/wiki/Ball_culture) , that started in the Harlem (/wiki/Harlem) , and in Washington, D.C., in the 1960s. [black men in the Harlem took the balls to ...] heights undreamed of by the little gangs of white men parading around in frocks (/wiki/Frock) in basement taverns. In a burst of liberated zeal they rented big places like the Elks Lodge (/wiki/Elks_Lodge) on 160 West 129th Street, and they turned up in dresses Madame Pompadour (/wiki/Madame_Pompadour) herself might have thought twice about. Word spread around Harlem that a retinue of drag queens (/wiki/Drag_queen) was putting together outfits bigger and grander than Rose Parade (/wiki/Rose_Parade) floats, and the balls began to attract spectators, first by the dozens and then by the hundreds, gay and straight alike. People brought liquor with them, sandwiches, buckets of chicken. As the audiences grew, the queens gave them more and more for their money. Cleopatra (/wiki/Cleopatra) on her barge, all in gold lamé (/wiki/Lam%C3%A9_(fabric)) , with a half dozen attendants waving white, glittering palm fronds. Faux fashion models in feathered coats lined with mylar (/wiki/Mylar) , so that when the coat was thrown open and a two-thousand-watt incandescent lamp suddenly lit, the people in the first few rows were blinded for minutes afterward. — Michael Cunningham [63] (#cite_note-76) Soon the balls were divided in "houses", or "families", led by a charismatic figure. Some regular house parties became institutionalized as drag "houses" and "families." The leader, or "mother," often provided not only the opportunity for parties but also instruction and mentoring in the arts of make-up, selecting clothes, lip-synching, portraying a personality, walking, and related skills. Those taught became "drag daughters," who in turn mentored others, creating entire "drag families." Drag houses became the first social support groups in the city's gay and lesbian community [in Washington, D.C]. — Rainbow History Project [64] (#cite_note-dc-77) The ballroom community is still active, as has been documented in the film Paris Is Burning (/wiki/Paris_Is_Burning_(film)) (1990). It has had a notable influence, mainly through Madonna (/wiki/Madonna_(entertainer)) 's " Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(Madonna_song)) " video, where the dancers use the vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(dance)) dancing style, developed in the ball culture, imitating the movements of models on the catwalk. Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9_Knowles) has also mentioned she was influenced by the ball culture, "how inspired she's been by the whole drag-house circuit in the States, an unsung part of black American culture where working-class gay men channel ultra-glamour in mocked-up catwalk shows. 'I still have that in me', she says of the 'confidence and the fire you see on stage [...]'". [65] (#cite_note-78) [66] (#cite_note-79) [67] (#cite_note-80) [68] (#cite_note-81) After Stonewall [ edit ] The Imperial Court of New York's annual Night of a Thousand Gowns Coronation Ball in Times Square (/wiki/Times_Square) After the Stonewall riots (/wiki/Stonewall_riots) , and the appearance of the modern LGBT liberation movement (/wiki/Gay_liberation) , these extensive cross-dressing balls, as they had been celebrated until then, practically disappeared. There are a few notable exceptions, as the Life Ball (/wiki/Life_Ball) in Vienna, celebrated yearly since 1992, [69] (#cite_note-82) or the annual Night of a Thousand Gowns in New York City, organized by the Imperial Court System (/wiki/Imperial_Court_System) , [70] (#cite_note-83) but in general they have been substituted by the dance club (/wiki/Dance_club) . By the mid-1970s, initially in New York City, appeared the discotheque (/wiki/Discotheque) , with the corresponding disco music (/wiki/Disco_music) , and disc jockeys, in close relationship with the gay scene (/wiki/Gay_scene) —see for example Studio 54 (/wiki/Studio_54) . Discotheques, and their music soon became favorites of gay men, who found in its songs gay anthems (/wiki/Gay_anthem) , as It's raining men (/wiki/It%27s_raining_men) , Y.M.C.A. (/wiki/Y.M.C.A._(song)) , I'm coming out (/wiki/I%27m_coming_out) , or So many men, so little time , in spite of the homophobia (/wiki/Homophobia) of some of the divas (/wiki/Diva) singing. [71] (#cite_note-Thévenin_2003_154–155-84) [72] (#cite_note-85) The mid-1980s saw the appearance of clubbing subculture (/wiki/Clubbing_(subculture)) , with centers in New York City, Ibiza (/wiki/Ibiza) , London, and Paris; one of its most iconic clubs being the Sound Factory (/wiki/The_Sound_Factory_Bar) in New York City. These clubs usually offered electronic dance music (/wiki/Electronic_dance_music) to big masses of gay men. By the end of the decade, and the beginning of the 1990s, the circuit parties (/wiki/Circuit_party) appear: big, outdoors parties, similar to raves (/wiki/Rave) , very planned, that can go on for days, and that can draw patrons from a very large territory, even from other countries. [71] (#cite_note-Thévenin_2003_154–155-84) Some circuit parties, like the White Party (/wiki/White_Party) in Palm Springs (/wiki/Palm_Springs) , the Black and Blue Party (/wiki/Black_and_Blue_Party) in Montreal, and the Winter Party in Miami, attract gay men in the thousands, and the ten thousands. In Europe, the biggest circuit party is celebrated in Barcelona, with about 70,000 men participating. [73] (#cite_note-86) [74] (#cite_note-87) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-12) Own translation from original: Von einigen Wirten urnischer Lokale, aber durchaus nicht von diesen allein, werden namentlich im Winterhalbjahr große Urningsbälle veranstaltet, die in ihrer Art und Ausdehnung eine Spezialität von Berlin sind. Hervorragenden Fremden, namentlich Ausländern, die in der jüngsten der europäischen Weltstädte etwas ganz Besonderes zu sehen wünschen, werden sie von höheren Beamten als eine der interessantesten Sehenswürdigkeiten gezeigt. [...] In der Hochsaison von Oktober bis Ostern finden diese Bälle in der Woche mehrmals, oft sogar mehrere an einem Abend statt. Trotzdem das Eintrittsgeld selten weniger als 1,50 Mark beträgt, sind diese Veranstaltungen meist gut besucht. Fast stets sind mehrere Geheimpolizisten zugegen, die achtgeben, daß nichts Ungeziemendes vorkommt; soweit ich unterrichtet bin, lag aber noch nie ein Anlaß vor, einzuschreiten. Die Veranstalter haben Ordre, möglichst nur Personen einzulassen, die ihnen als homosexuell bekannt sind. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Own translation from original: Einige der Bälle erfreuen sich eines besonderen Renommées, vor allem der kurz nach Neujahr veranstaltete, auf dem die neuen, vielfach selbst gefertigten Toiletten vorgeführt werden. Als ich diesen Ball im letzten Jahr mit einigen ärztlichen Kollegen besuchte, waren gegen 800 Personen zugegen. Gegen 10 Uhr abends sind die großen Säle noch fast menschenleer. Erst nach 11 Uhr beginnen sich die Räume zu füllen. Viele Besucher sind im Gesellschafts- oder Straßen-Anzug, sehr viele aber auch kostümiert. Einige erscheinen dicht maskiert in undurchdringlichen Dominos, sie kommen und gehen, ohne daß jemand ahnt, wer sie gewesen sind; andere lüften die Larve um Mitternacht, ein Teil kommt in Phantasiegewändern, ein großer Teil in Damenkleidern, manche in einfachen, andere in sehr kostbaren Toiletten. Ich sah einen Südamerikaner in einer Pariser Robe, deren Preis über 2000 Francs betragen sollte. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Own translation from original: Nicht wenige wirken in ihrem Aussehen und ihren Bewegungen so weiblich, daß es selbst Kennern schwer fällt, den Mann zu erkennen. [...] Wirkliche Weiber sind auf diesen Bällen nur ganz spärlich vorhanden, nur dann und wann bringt ein Uranier seine Wirtin, eine Freundin oder – seine Ehefrau mit. Man verfährt im allgemeinen bei den Urningen nicht so streng wie auf den analogen Urnindenbällen, auf denen jedem »echten Mann« strengstens der Zutritt versagt ist. Am geschmacklosesten und abstoßendsten wirken auf den Bällen der Homosexuellen die ebenfalls nicht vereinzelten Herren, die trotz eines stattlichen Schnurrbartes oder gar Vollbartes »als Weib« kommen. Die schönsten Kostüme werden auf ein Zeichen des Einberufers mit donnerndem Tusch empfangen und von diesem selbst durch den Saal geleitet. Zwischen 12 und 1 Uhr erreicht der Besuch gewöhnlich seinen Höhepunkt. Gegen 2 Uhr findet die Kaffeepause – die Haupteinnahmequelle des Saalinhabers – statt. In wenigen Minuten sind lange Tafeln aufgeschlagen und gedeckt, an denen mehrere hundert Personen Platz nehmen; einige humoristische Gesangsvorträge und Tänze anwesender »Damenimitatoren« würzen die Unterhaltung, dann setzt sich das fröhliche Treiben bis zum frühen Morgen fort. ^ (#cite_ref-19) The original German, Hier ist's richtig! , can be translated in several ways; richtig can be translated as "right", "correct", "good", "adequate", "real", or "authentic". As can be seen in the text that follows, the meaning was not clear in German either. ^ (#cite_ref-20) Own translation from original: Ein Tanzsaal größeren Stils mit einem äußerst eleganten Publikum. Smokings und Fräcke und große Abendroben – so präsentiert sich die Normalität, die zum Schauen hierher kommt. Die Akteurs sind in großer Zahl vorhanden. Grelle Plakate locken schon am Eingang, und Malereien, in denen die Perversität ihrer selbst spottet, schmücken den Gang. An der Garderobe setzt der Nepp ein. ‚Hier ist’s richtig!‘ heißt es auf den Affichen. Eine geheimnisvolle Devise, unter der man sich allerhand vorstellen kann. Alles ist Kulisse, und nur der ganz Weltfremde glaubt an ihre Echtheit. Selbst die echten Transvestiten, die ihre Abart in den Dienst des Geschäftes stellen, werden hier Komödianten. Zwischen den Tänzen, bei denen auch der Normale sich den pikanten Genuss leisten kann, mit einem effeminierten Manne in Frauenkleidern zu tanzen, gibt es Brettldarbietungen. Eine männliche Chanteuse singt mit ihrem schrillen Sopran zweideutige Pariser Chansons. Ein ganz mädchenhafter Revuestar tanzt unter dem Scheinwerferlicht weiblich graziöse Pirouetten. Er ist nackt bis auf die Brustschilde und einen Schamgurt, und selbst diese Nacktheit ist noch täuschend, sie macht den Zuschauern noch Kopfzerbrechen, sie läßt noch Zweifel, ob Mann ob Frau. Eine der entzückendsten und elegantesten Frauen, die im ganzen Saale anwesend sind, ist oft der zierliche Bob, und es gibt Männer genug, die in der Tiefe ihres Herzens bedauern, daß er kein Mädchen ist, daß die Natur sie durch einen Irrtum um eine deliziöse Geliebte betrogen hat. ^ (#cite_ref-35) The author is describing the usual way to dance the " shimmy (/wiki/Shimmy) ", a new dance style that scandalized the society at the time. ^ (#cite_ref-36) Translation by Florence Tamaigne (/w/index.php?title=Florence_Tamaigne&action=edit&redlink=1) (2006) from the original: Par quelques accords fêlés, le pianiste prélude à un shimmy. Les professionnels de l'endroit, payés pour donner le spectacle à la galerie, s'enlacent aussitôt. Ils ondulent plutôt qu'ils ne dansent. Ils se choquent le ventre d'un mouvement obscène, à chaque temps d'arrêt, impriment à leur buste de courts frémissements, et pincent délicatement entre leurs doigts la jambe du pantalon, qu'ils relèvent sur la bottine vernie à chaque pas en avant, en lançant de œillades à la clientèle. Ils sont habillés avec un grand raffinement. Certains semblent s'être rembourrés la poitrine avec l'ouate. D'autres exhibent des kimonos largement décolletés. L'un d'eux porte un costume oriental tout lamé d'argent. ^ (#cite_ref-46) In military circles it was not uncommon to organize balls where men would dance with each other, as women could not be part of the military, and very often were not available. There are several short films documenting the fact, as Jacks 'the Dasant' (http://www.britishpathe.com/video/jacks-the-dasant/query/FRENCH) , from 1922, that shows a ball celebrated on HMS Hood , with Brazilian, U.S., French, and Japanese sailors participating; Interned Sailors (http://www.britishpathe.com/video/interned-sailors-1/query/homo-erotic) , from about 1914–1918, is a short film of unknown origin, depicting a group of sailors looking, while two play the accordion, and other dance together; or male soldiers dancing together during WWI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nl81x0eWmzY) , that shows a group of sailors dancing on a ship. ^ (#cite_ref-53) Own translation from original text: La noche del domingo fue sorprendido por la policía, en una casa accesoria de la 4a. calle de la Paz, un baile que 41 hombres solos verificaban vestidos de mujer. Entre algunos de esos individuos fueron reconocidos los pollos que diariamente se ven pasar por Plateros. Estos vestían elegantísimos trajes de señoras, llevaban pelucas, pechos postizos, aretes, choclos bordados y en las caras tenían pintadas grandes ojeras y chapas de color. Al saberse la noticia en los boulevares, se han dado toda clase de comentarios y se censura la conducta de dichos individuos. No damos a nuestros lectores más detalles por ser en sumo grado asquerosos. ^ (#cite_ref-54) Translation by Sifuentes-Jáuregui from original text: Los vagos, rateros y afeminados que han sido enviados a Yucatán, no han sido consignados a los batallones del Ejército que operan en la campaña contra los indígenas mayas, sino a las obras públicas en las poblaciones conquistadas al enemigo común de la civilización ^ (#cite_ref-57) Own translation from original: La sociedad en la cual se comienza a bailar tango era mayoritariamente masculina, por la tanto, a la luz pública se bailaba entre parejas de hombres únicamente, ya que la iglesia aplicaba su moralismo y no permitía la unión de un hombre y una mujer en esta clase de baile. [...] El Papa Pío X lo proscribió, el Káiser lo prohibió a sus oficiales. ^ (#cite_ref-65) Own translation from original text: In einem der großen Säle, in welchem die Urninge ihre Bälle veranstalten, findet auch fast jede Woche ein analoger Ballabend für Uranierinnen statt, von denen sich ein großer Teil in Herrenkostüm einfindet. Die meisten homosexuellen Frauen auf einem Fleck kann man alljährlich auf einem von einer Berliner Dame arrangierten Kostümfest sehen. Das Fest ist nicht öffentlich, sondern gewöhnlich nur denjenigen zugänglich, die einer der Komiteedamen bekannt sind. Eine Teilnehmerin entwirft mir folgende anschauliche Schilderung: »An einem schönen Winterabend fahren von 8 Uhr ab vor einem der ersten Berliner Hotels Wagen auf Wagen vor, denen Damen und Herren in Kostümen aller Länder und Zeiten entsteigen. Hier sieht man einen flotten Couleurstudenten mit mächtigen Renommierschmissen ankommen, dort hilft ein schlanker Rokokoherr seiner Dame galant aus der Equipage. Immer dichter füllen sich die strahlend erleuchteten weiten Räume; jetzt tritt ein dicker Kapuziner ein, vor dem sich ehrfurchtsvoll Zigeuner, Pierrots, Matrosen, Clowns, Bäcker, Landsknechte, schmucke Offiziere, Herren und Damen im Reitanzug, Buren, Japaner und zierliche Geishas neigen. Eine glutäugige Carmen setzt einen Jockey in Brand, ein feuriger Italiener schließt mit einem Schneemann innige Freundschaft. Die in buntesten Farben schillernde fröhliche Schar bietet ein höchst eigenartiges anziehendes Bild. Zuerst stärken sich die Festteilnehmerinnen an blumengeschmückten Tafeln. Die Leiterin in flotter Samtjoppe heißt in kurzer kerniger Rede die Gäste willkommen. Dann werden die Tische fortgeräumt. Die »Donauwellen« erklingen, und begleitet von fröhlichen Tanzweisen, schwingen sich die Paare die Nacht hindurch im Kreise. Aus den Nebensälen hört man helles Lachen, Klingen der Gläser und munteres Singen, nirgends aber – wohin man sieht – werden die Grenzen eines Kostümfestes vornehmer Art überschritten. Kein Mißton trübt die allgemeine Freude, bis die letzten Teilnehmerinnen beim matten Dämmerlicht des kalten Februarmorgens den Ort verlassen, an dem sie sich unter Mitempfindenden wenige Stunden als das träumen durften, was sie innerlich sind.« ^ (#cite_ref-71) " baletti " means literally ballet, and is the name given at the time to sexual scandals (/wiki/Sexual_scandal) involving minors, from similar heterosexual cases; verde means "green", and it was considered the color of gays; it was the color of the carnation that Oscar Wilde (/wiki/Oscar_Wilde) wore on his lapel. References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Norton, Rictor (/wiki/Rictor_Norton) (2008-06-15). "The Gay Subculture in Early Eighteenth-Century London" (http://rictornorton.co.uk/eighteen/molly2.htm) . Rick Norton's Web Page . Retrieved 2013-10-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Rapp, Linda (2010-05-18). "Portugal" (https://web.archive.org/web/20141129065151/http://www.glbtq.com/social-sciences/portugal.html) . glbtq: An Encyclopedia of Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, Transgender, and Queer Culture . Archived from the original (http://www.glbtq.com/social-sciences/portugal.html) on 2014-11-29 . Retrieved 2013-10-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Torrão Filho, Almilcar (2000). Tríbades galantes, fanchonos militantes (in Portuguese). GLS. pp. 140 (https://archive.org/details/trbadesgalantesf00/page/140) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 85-86755-24-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Garza, Federico (2002). Quemando Mariposas. Sodomía e Imperio en Andalucía y México, siglos XVI-XVII (in Spanish). Laertes. pp. 189–192. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 84-7584-480-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Fernandez, André (2003). Au nom du sexe : inquisition et répression sexuelle en Aragon, 1560-1700 (in French). París: L'Harmattan. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 2747545261 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Riera i Sans, Jaume (2014). Sodomites catalans. Història i vida (segles XIII-XVIII) (in Catalan). Barcelona: Base. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-84-15711-85-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Álvarez Urcelay, Milagros (2012). "Causando gran escandalo e murmuraçion". Sexualidad transgresora y su castigo en Gipuzkoa durante los siglos XVI, XVII y XVIII (in Spanish). Bilbao: Universidad del País Vasco / Euskal Herriko Unibertsitatea, Argitalpen Zerbitzua / Servicio Editorial. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-84-9860-734-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Carrasco, Rafael (1985). Inquisición y represión sexual en Valencia: historia de los sodomitas, 1565-1785 (in Spanish). Barcelona: Laertes. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 8475840485 . ^ Jump up to: a b Godard, Didier (2002). Le goût de monsieur : l'homosexualité masculine au XVIIe siècle (in French). Montblanc: H & O. pp. 195–196. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 2845470428 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Sternweiler, Andreas (/w/index.php?title=Andreas_Sternweiler&action=edit&redlink=1) (1997). Sternweiler, Andreas; Hannesen, Hans Gerhard (eds.). Goodbye to Berlin? 100 Jahre Schwulenbewegung (in German). Berlin: Verlag Rosa Winkel. pp. 70–74. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-86149-062-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Theis, Wolfgang; Sternweiler, Andreas (1984). Berlin Museum (ed.). Eldorado. Homosexuelle Frauen und Männer in Berlin 1850–1950. Geschichte, Alltag und Kultur (in German). Berlín: Fröhlich und Kaufmann. pp. 60–61. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-88725-068-0 . ^ Jump up to: a b Sternweiler, Andreas (/w/index.php?title=Andreas_Sternweiler&action=edit&redlink=1) (1997). Sternweiler, Andreas; Hannesen, Hans Gerhard (eds.). Goodbye to Berlin? 100 Jahre Schwulenbewegung (in German). Berlin: Verlag Rosa Winkel. pp. 95–104. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-86149-062-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Theis, Wolfgang; Sternweiler, Andreas (1984). Berlin Museum (ed.). Eldorado. Homosexuelle Frauen und Männer in Berlin 1850–1950. Geschichte, Alltag und Kultur (in German). Berlin: Fröhlich und Kaufmann. pp. 65–73. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-88725-068-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-AS31997_17-0) Sternweiler, Andreas (/w/index.php?title=Andreas_Sternweiler&action=edit&redlink=1) (1997). Sternweiler, Andreas; Hannesen, Hans Gerhardhea (eds.). Goodbye to Berlin? 100 Jahre Schwulenbewegung (in German). Berlin: Verlag Rosa Winkel. pp. 126–128. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-86149-062-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-raber_18-0) Raber, Ralf Jörg (2003). Invertito – Jahrbuch für die Geschichte der Homosexualitäten, 5. Jahrgang (in German). MännerschwarmSkript Verlag. pp. 50–52. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-935596-25-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-moreck_21-0) Moreck, Curt (1931). Führer durch das "lasterhafte" Berlin (in German). Leipzig: Verlag Moderne Stadtführer, Nicolaische Verlagsbuchhandlung. pp. 180 f. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-87584-583-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-sachse_22-0) Sachse, Peter (1927). Berliner Journal (in German). ^ Jump up to: a b Lütgens, Annelie (1991). Nur ein Paar Augen sein. Jeanne Mammen – eine Künstlerin in ihrer Zeit (in German). Berlin. p. 67. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-24) Bret, David (1996). Marlene My Friend: An Intimate Biography . Robson. p. 21 (https://archive.org/details/marlenemyfriendi0000bret/page/21) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-86051-844-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Cordan, Wolfgang (2003). Die Matte. Autobiografische Aufzeichnungen. Herausgegeben und mit einem Nachwort versehen von Manfred Herzer (in German). Hamburg: MännerschwarmSkript. ^ (#cite_ref-26) Kisch, Egon Erwin (1998). Briefe an Jarmila (in German). Das Neue Berlin. p. 63. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-360-00856-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Haeberle, E. J. (1984). Gruyter, Walter de (ed.). Einführung in den Jubiläums-Nachdruck von Magnus Hirschfeld, "Die Homosexualität des Mannes und des Weibes", 1914 (in German). Berlin – New York. p. V-XXXI. Archived from the original (http://www2.hu-berlin.de/sexology/GESUND/ARCHIV/DEUTSCH/einleitung3.htm) on 2009-01-07 . Retrieved 2017-06-15 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-28) Delmer, Sefton (1962-10-31). "Ein Photo von Stalins Ohrläppchen Auszüge aus dem Buch "Die Deutschen und ich" von Sefton Delmer" (http://www.spiegel.de/spiegel/print/d-45124291.html) . Der Spiegel (in German). p. 46 . Retrieved 2014-08-04 . ; extracts from the book Gruyter, Walter. Die Deutschen und ich . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Allardt, Helmut (1979). Politik vor und hinter den Kulissen. Erfahrungen eines Diplomaten zwischen Ost und West (in German). Düsseldorf: Econ. p. 24. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-430-11027-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Gisevius, Hans Bernd (1946). Bis zum Bittern Ende (in German). Fretz & Wasmuth. p. 180. ^ (#cite_ref-31) Andreas Sternweiler, ed. (1998). Liebe, Forschung, Lehre: Der Kunsthistoriker Christian Adolf Isermeyer . Lebensgeschichten. Berlin. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-86149-082-X . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) citing from „Ein schwuler Emigrant [7] [...]" ) ^ (#cite_ref-grau_32-0) Grau, Günter (1993). Homosexualität in der NS-Zeit (in German). Frankfurt am Main: Fischer Taschenbuchverlag. pp. 54, 56 f. (https://archive.org/details/homosexualitatin0000unse_r7p5/page/54) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-596-11254-0 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Eribon, Didier (/wiki/Didier_Eribon) , ed. (2003). "Bals". Dictionnaire des cultures gays et lesbiennes (in French). Paris: Larousse. pp. 55–56. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 2035051649 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j Tamagne, Florence (2006). A history of homosexuality in Europe. Volume I & II. Berlin, London, Paris 1919–1939 . New York: Algora Publishing. pp. 50 (https://archive.org/details/historyhomosexua00tama_172/page/n61) –53. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-87586-355-8 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Buckley, Angela (2014-06-24). "Detective Caminada and the cross dressing ball..." (http://virtualvictorian.blogspot.de/2014/06/detective-caminada-and-cross-dressing.html) The Virtual Victorian . Retrieved 2015-06-07 . ^ Jump up to: a b "LGBT History Source Guide Launch: Manchester's Drag Ball, Mon 22 August" (https://manchesterarchiveplus.wordpress.com/2011/08/17/lgbt-history-source-guide-launch-lgfoundation-manclibraries-manchesterpride/) . Archives+ . 2011-08-17 . Retrieved 2015-06-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) "Our Hidden Histories" (https://www.fyne.co.uk/our-hidden-histories/) . Fyne Times . 2019-02-08 . Retrieved 2019-09-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Barlow, Nigel (2015-02-02). "A very Victorian Scandal- The Hulme Fancy Dress Ball Raid" (https://aboutmanchester.co.uk/a-very-victorian-scandal-the-hulme-fancy-dress-ball-raid/) . About Manchester . Retrieved 2019-09-22 . ^ Jump up to: a b Branigan, Tania (2004-07-03). "Pride and prejudice in the gay 1920s" (https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2004/jul/03/gayrights.world) . The Guardian . Retrieved 2015-06-07 . ^ Jump up to: a b Transpontine (2008-05-27). "A London Drag Ball, 1930s" (http://history-is-made-at-night.blogspot.de/2008/05/london-drag-ball-1930s.html) . History is made at night . Retrieved 2015-06-07 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Fuentes, Pablo (1999). Navarro, Francesc (ed.). homo. tod@ la historia. El cambio finisecular (in Spanish). Barcelona: Bauprés. p. 15. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 84-345-6842-X . ^ Jump up to: a b Vázquez García, Francisco; Cleminson, Richard (/w/index.php?title=Richard_Cleminson&action=edit&redlink=1) (2011). "Los Invisibles": una historia de la homosexualidad masculina en España, 1850-1939 (in Spanish). Granada: Comares. p. 263. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-84-9836-783-6 . ^ Jump up to: a b Beemyn, Brett Genny (2007). Aldrich, Robert (ed.). Gleich und anders (in German). Hamburg: Murmann. pp. 158–159. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-938017-81-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) Stabbe, Oliver (2016-03-30). "Queens and queers: The rise of drag ball culture in the 1920s" (https://americanhistory.si.edu/blog/queens-and-queers-rise-drag-ball-culture-1920s) . National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution . Retrieved 2022-10-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-:2_48-0) Fleeson, Lucinda (June 27, 2007). "The Gay '30s" (https://www.chicagomag.com/Chicago-Magazine/November-2005/The-Gay-30S/) . Chicago Magazine . Retrieved 2022-10-27 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Weems, Mickey (2011-12-08). "Drag Ball" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140819085620/http://www.qualiafolk.com/2011/12/08/712/) . Qualia Folk . Archived from the original (http://www.qualiafolk.com/2011/12/08/712/) on 2014-08-19 . Retrieved 2014-08-02 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Chauncey, George (1994). Gay New York. Gender, urban culture, and the making of the gay male world 1890–1940 . Nueva York: Basic Books. pp. 291–299 (https://archive.org/details/gaynewyork00geor/page/291) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-465-02621-4 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Monsiváis, Carlos (/wiki/Carlos_Monsiv%C3%A1is) (November 2001). "La Gran Redada" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130405175406/http://www.enkidumagazine.com/art/2007/200707/e_1007_063_a.htm) (in Spanish). Enkidu. Archived from the original on 2013-04-05 . Retrieved 2007-12-16 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_bot:_original_URL_status_unknown) ) ^ Jump up to: a b c d Hernández Cabrera, Miguel (2002). "Los "cuarenta y uno", cien años después" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130430183621/http://www.islaternura.com/APLAYA/HOMOenHISTORIA/HomoHistoria2005/Los%2041%20en%20mexico/En%20el%20centenario%20de%20los%2041%20Diciembre2005.htm) (in Spanish). Isla ternura. Archived from the original (http://www.islaternura.com/APLAYA/HOMOenHISTORIA/HomoHistoria2005/Los%2041%20en%20mexico/En%20el%20centenario%20de%20los%2041%20Diciembre2005.htm) on 2013-04-30 . Retrieved 2007-12-16 . ^ Jump up to: a b Sifuentes-Jáuregui, Ben. (2002). Transvestism, Masculinity, and Latin American Literature: Genders Share Flesh . Springer. pp. 32–34. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780230107281 . Retrieved 15 June 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b Murray, Stephen O. "Mexico" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150701012120/http://www.glbtq.com/social-sciences/mexico.html) . glbtq . Archived from the original (http://www.glbtq.com/social-sciences/mexico.html) on 2015-07-01 . Retrieved 2007-11-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) Hernández Berrío, Juliana. "El Tango nació para ser bailado" (https://archive.today/20140801013949/http://www.reddebibliotecas.org.co/Cultura/Multimedias/tango/baile1/baile1.html) . Medellín Cultura (in Spanish). Archived from the original (http://www.reddebibliotecas.org.co/Cultura/Multimedias/tango/baile1/baile1.html) on 2014-08-01 . Retrieved 2014-07-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-Marinnas_59-0) Mariñas, J. Alberto. "Ellas bailan solas..." (https://web.archive.org/web/20100618203032/http://www.esto.es/tango/espanol/Ellas.htm) www.Esto.es (in Spanish). Archived from the original (http://www.esto.es/tango/espanol/Ellas.htm) on 2010-06-18 . Retrieved 2014-07-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) Demaría, Gonzalo (February 6, 2020). Cacería (paperback). Colección Andanzas (in Spanish) (1st ed.). Buenos Aires: Editorial Planeta (/wiki/Editorial_Planeta) . p. 12. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-950-49-6968-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-glbtq_Brasil_61-0) Green, James N. "Brazil" (https://web.archive.org/web/20141026010526/http://www.glbtq.com/social-sciences/brazil.html) . glbtq . Archived from the original (http://www.glbtq.com/social-sciences/brazil.html) on 2014-10-26 . Retrieved 2015-08-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-glbtq_Río_de_Janeiro_62-0) Green, James N. "Rio de Janeiro" (https://web.archive.org/web/20141026010612/http://www.glbtq.com/social-sciences/rio_de_janeiro.html) . glbtq . Archived from the original (http://www.glbtq.com/social-sciences/rio_de_janeiro.html) on 2014-10-26 . Retrieved 2015-08-09 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Healey, Dan (October 2013). Sapper, Manfred; Weichsel, Volker (eds.). "Beredtes Schweigen. Zur Geschichte der Homosexualität in Russland" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160822004419/http://www.zeitschrift-osteuropa.de/hefte/2013/10/) . Osteuropa. Spektralanalyse. Homosexualität und Ihre Feinde (in German): 11–14. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-8305-3180-7 . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0030-6428 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0030-6428) . Archived from the original (https://www.zeitschrift-osteuropa.de/hefte/2013/10/) on 2016-08-22 . Retrieved 2014-08-01 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Петроград, 1921 год: полицейский рейд на "гей-клуб" (http://outloudmag.eu/events/item/148-unikalnaya-fotografiya-figurantov-dela-o-gey-pritone-v-petrograde) " (http://outloudmag.eu/events/item/148-unikalnaya-fotografiya-figurantov-dela-o-gey-pritone-v-petrograde) . OUTLOUD (in Russian). 2013-09-19 . Retrieved 2014-08-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-66) Dobler, Jens (2003). Boxhammer, Ingeborg; Leidinger, Christiane (eds.). "Lesbische Berliner Subkultur im Nationalsozialismus" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120113060237/http://www.lesbengeschichte.de/staedte_d_fram.html?http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lesbengeschichte.de%2Fstaedte_berlin_d.html) . Online-Projekt Lesbengeschichte (in German). Archived from the original (http://www.lesbengeschichte.de/staedte_d_fram.html?http://www.lesbengeschichte.de/staedte_berlin_d.html) on 2012-01-13 . Retrieved 2009-05-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-67) Steinle, Karl-Heinz (1997). "Der Kreis - Entwicklungshilfe aus der Schweiz". In Sternweiler, Andreas; Hannesen, Hans Gerhardt (eds.). Goodbye Berlin? 100 Jahre Schwulenbewegung (in German) (1st ed.). Berlin: Verlag Rosa Winkel. pp. 241–242. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-86149-062-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) Stienle, Karl-Heinz (1997). "Homophiles Deutschland - West und Ost". In Sternweiler, Andreas; Hannesen, Hans Gerhardt (eds.). Goodbye Berlin? 100 Jahre Schwulenbewegung (in German) (1st ed.). Berlin: Verlag Rosa Winkel. pp. 195–196, 200. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-86149-062-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-69) Hekma, Gert (/wiki/Gert_Hekma) (1997). "Amsterdam - Die schwule Hauptstadt der Nachkriegszeit". In Sternweiler, Andreas; Hannesen, Hans Gerhardt (eds.). Goodbye Berlin? 100 Jahre Schwulenbewegung (in German) (1st ed.). Berlin: Verlag Rosa Winkel. p. 210. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-86149-062-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-70) "Café 't Mandje was sinds 1927 het café van de legendarische Bet van Beeren (12 februari 1902 – 16 juli 1967)" (http://www.cafetmandje.amsterdam/geschiedenis/) . Café ’t Mandje webpage . 4 August 2015 . Retrieved 25 June 2017 . But Bet would not allow kissing in the bar. There were vice-laws to consider and the liquor license could be at stake. The bar did not have a dance license. There was a custom-made billiard table in the middle of it, no room for dancing. Only on the Queen's birthday (in those days on April 30th) almost anything was permitted, even dancing in a bar without a proper license. So the billiard table was disassembled for a day and at Bet van Beeren's Café 't Mandje men danced with men and women with women. ^ (#cite_ref-72) Bolognini, Stefano (March 2001). "I Balletti verdi, storia di uno scandalo" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080508214232/http://www.stefanobolognini.it/storia/balletti/estrattopride.html) . Stefano Bolognini's Web Page (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2008-05-08 . Retrieved 2014-07-31 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_bot:_original_URL_status_unknown) ) ^ (#cite_ref-73) Scalise, Daniele (2001-05-16). "Balletti verdi uno scandalo omosessuale" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080508205613/http://www.stefanobolognini.it/storia/balletti/libro.html) . L'Espresso (/wiki/L%27Espresso) (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2008-05-08 . Retrieved 2014-07-31 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_bot:_original_URL_status_unknown) ) ^ (#cite_ref-74) Omeda, Fernando (2004). El látigo y la pluma. Homosexuales en la España de Franco . Madrid: Oberon. pp. 223–225. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 84-96052-68-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-75) Arnalte, Arturo (2003). Redada de violetas. Represión de los homosexuales durante el franquismo . Madrid: La esfera de los libros. pp. 262–265. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 84-9734-150-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-76) Cunningham, Michael. "The Slap of Love" (http://opencity.org/archive/issue-6/the-slap-of-love) . Open City . Retrieved 2014-08-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-dc_77-0) "The Rainbow History Project: Drag in DC" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140614052021/http://www.rainbowhistory.org/html/drag.html) . Rainbow History Project. 2000–2007. Archived from the original (http://www.rainbowhistory.org/html/drag.html) on 2014-06-14 . Retrieved 2007-10-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-78) "Beyoncé Knowles: Queen B" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071001104054/http://news.independent.co.uk/people/profiles/article1223035.ece) . The Independent . 2006-09-03. Archived from the original (http://news.independent.co.uk/people/profiles/article1223035.ece) on 2007-10-01. ^ (#cite_ref-79) Bailey, Marlon M. (2010). Global Circuits of Blackness . University of Illinois Press. ^ (#cite_ref-80) Bailey, Marlon M. (2011). Gender/Racial Realness: Theorizing the Gender System in Ballroom Culture . Vol. 37. pp. 365–386. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : |work= ignored ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#periodical_ignored) ) ^ (#cite_ref-81) Rowan, Diana; Long, Dennis D.; Johnson, Darrin (April 2013). Identity and Self-Presentation in the House/Ball Culture: A Primer for Social Workers . Vol. 25. pp. 178–196. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : |work= ignored ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#periodical_ignored) ) ^ (#cite_ref-82) Müller, Nina (2014-02-22). " (https://web.archive.org/web/20141102043545/http://www.kleinezeitung.at/freizeit/events/baelle/3556484/alles-pailletti-tuntenball.story) "Alles pailletti" am Tuntenball" (https://web.archive.org/web/20141102043545/http://www.kleinezeitung.at/freizeit/events/baelle/3556484/alles-pailletti-tuntenball.story) . Kleine Zeitung (in German). Archived from the original (http://www.kleinezeitung.at/freizeit/events/baelle/3556484/alles-pailletti-tuntenball.story) on 2014-11-02 . Retrieved 2014-07-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-83) Wong, Curtis M. (2015-04-19). "The Imperial Court's 'Night Of A Thousand Gowns' Brings Style And Sass To New York For A Great Gay Cause" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/04/19/night-of-a-thousand-gowns_n_7094358.html) . HuffPost . Retrieved 25 June 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b Thévenin, P. (2003). Eribon, Didier (/wiki/Didier_Eribon) (ed.). Dictionnaire des cultures gays et lesbiennes (in French). Larousse. pp. 154–155. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 2-03-505164-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-85) Mira, Alberto (/w/index.php?title=Alberto_Mira&action=edit&redlink=1) (2002). Para entendernos. Diccionario de cultura homosexual, gay y lésbica (in Spanish). Barcelona: la tempestad. pp. 239–240. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 84-7948-959-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-86) Baquero, Camilo S. (2013-08-19). "El 80% de los 70.000 asistentes al Circuit han sido extranjeros" (http://ccaa.elpais.com/ccaa/2013/08/19/catalunya/1376941252_463120.html) . El País (in Spanish) . Retrieved 2014-02-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-87) Baquero, Camilo S. (2013-08-08). "El lado gay de la marca Barcelona" (http://ccaa.elpais.com/ccaa/2013/08/08/catalunya/1375957077_070933.html) . El País (in Spanish) . Retrieved 2014-02-16 . 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The main article for this category (/wiki/Help:Categories) is Fashion in the United States (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_United_States) . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Fashion of the United States (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fashion_of_the_United_States) . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 14 subcategories, out of 14 total. B Clothing brands of the United States (/wiki/Category:Clothing_brands_of_the_United_States) ‎ (6 C, 331 P) American fashion businesspeople (/wiki/Category:American_fashion_businesspeople) ‎ (3 C, 255 P) C Clothing companies of the United States (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_of_the_United_States) ‎ (8 C, 159 P) D American fashion designers (/wiki/Category:American_fashion_designers) ‎ (8 C, 846 P) E Fashion events in the United States (/wiki/Category:Fashion_events_in_the_United_States) ‎ (1 C, 16 P) F Films about fashion in the United States (/wiki/Category:Films_about_fashion_in_the_United_States) ‎ (19 P) H Hip hop fashion (/wiki/Category:Hip_hop_fashion) ‎ (59 P) J American fashion journalists (/wiki/Category:American_fashion_journalists) ‎ (68 P) M Fashion magazines published in the United States (/wiki/Category:Fashion_magazines_published_in_the_United_States) ‎ (3 C, 47 P) Fashion museums in the United States (/wiki/Category:Fashion_museums_in_the_United_States) ‎ (16 P) O Outfits worn at the Academy Awards ceremonies (/wiki/Category:Outfits_worn_at_the_Academy_Awards_ceremonies) ‎ (24 P) P Project Runway (American series) (/wiki/Category:Project_Runway_(American_series)) ‎ (2 C, 39 P) S Fashion schools in the United States (/wiki/Category:Fashion_schools_in_the_United_States) ‎ (1 C, 16 P) W Western wear (/wiki/Category:Western_wear) ‎ (1 C, 27 P) Pages in category "American fashion" The following 45 pages are in this category, out of 45 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . Fashion in the United States (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_United_States) A Adidas Yeezy (/wiki/Adidas_Yeezy) Aloha shirt (/wiki/Aloha_shirt) Amazon Coat (/wiki/Amazon_Coat) Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) B Baseball cap (/wiki/Baseball_cap) Beanie (seamed cap) (/wiki/Beanie_(seamed_cap)) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bode (fashion brand) (/wiki/Bode_(fashion_brand)) Bumpits (/wiki/Bumpits) C Cardigan (sweater) (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) Coonskin cap (/wiki/Coonskin_cap) Coty Award (/wiki/Coty_Award) Crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) F FTL Moda (/wiki/FTL_Moda) G Go-to-hell pants (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) H Hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) I Indigenous fashion of the Americas (/wiki/Indigenous_fashion_of_the_Americas) J Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jeggings (/wiki/Jeggings) K Kahala (apparel) (/wiki/Kahala_(apparel)) Knit cap (/wiki/Knit_cap) L Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) List of Vogue (US) cover models (/wiki/List_of_Vogue_(US)_cover_models) Lo Lifes (/wiki/Lo_Lifes) M Mullet (haircut) (/wiki/Mullet_(haircut)) N Native American fashion (/wiki/Native_American_fashion) O Oleg Cassini, Inc. (/wiki/Oleg_Cassini,_Inc.) Online Ceramics (/wiki/Online_Ceramics) P Purple Mark (/wiki/Purple_Mark) R Rip the Runway (/wiki/Rip_the_Runway) S Slim-fit pants (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) Straw Hat Riot (/wiki/Straw_Hat_Riot) T T-shirt (/wiki/T-shirt) Take Ivy (/wiki/Take_Ivy) Tube top (/wiki/Tube_top) V Vaquera (fashion brand) (/wiki/Vaquera_(fashion_brand)) W Wedding dress of Carolyn Bessette (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Carolyn_Bessette) Wide-leg jeans (/wiki/Wide-leg_jeans) The World of Anna Sui (/wiki/The_World_of_Anna_Sui) X Xtratuf (/wiki/Xtratuf) Y Yeezy (brand) (/wiki/Yeezy_(brand)) Yeezy Gap (/wiki/Yeezy_Gap) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:American_fashion&oldid=1223551081 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:American_fashion&oldid=1223551081) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Fashion by country (/wiki/Category:Fashion_by_country) Culture of the United States (/wiki/Category:Culture_of_the_United_States) Hidden categories: Automatic category TOC generates no TOC (/wiki/Category:Automatic_category_TOC_generates_no_TOC) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata)
Crown made in 1831 Crown of Queen Adelaide Lithograph of the crown Details Country United Kingdom Made 1831 Owner Charles III (/wiki/Charles_III) in right of the Crown (/wiki/The_Crown) Arches 4 The Crown of Queen Adelaide was the consort crown (/wiki/Consort_crown) of the British queen Adelaide of Saxe-Meiningen (/wiki/Adelaide_of_Saxe-Meiningen) . It was used at Adelaide's coronation (/wiki/Coronation_of_William_IV_and_Adelaide) in 1831. It was emptied of its jewels soon afterwards, and has never been worn since. Reasons for creation [ edit ] Queen Adelaide depicted with her crown, by John Simpson (/wiki/John_Simpson_(artist)) Following the coronation of Mary of Modena (/wiki/Mary_of_Modena) in 1685, the crown made for Mary (/wiki/Crown_of_Mary_of_Modena) was used for the coronations of Mary II (/wiki/Mary_II_of_England) in 1689, Queen Anne (/wiki/Anne,_Queen_of_Great_Britain) in 1702 and Queen Caroline (/wiki/Caroline_of_Ansbach) in 1727. [1] (#cite_note-Trustcrown-1) However criticism of the continued use of this crown had mounted, for reasons of age, size, state of repair and because it was seen to be too theatrical and undignified. A specially made nuptial crown was used by Queen Charlotte (/wiki/Charlotte_of_Mecklenburg-Strelitz) , [1] (#cite_note-Trustcrown-1) but in the preparations for the coronation of Adelaide of Saxe-Meiningen (/wiki/Coronation_of_Adelaide_of_Saxe-Meiningen) in 1831 Adelaide expressed a dislike for the crowns in the royal collection, [2] (#cite_note-jones-2) it was ruled that the Modena crown was "unfit for Her Majesty's use". [3] (#cite_note-3) Plans were made for the creation of a new consort crown. Design [ edit ] The new crown followed British crown tradition in having four half arches (/wiki/Half-arch_(crowns)) , meeting a globe, on top of which sat a cross. The Queen had objected to the standard practice of hiring diamonds and jewels for a crown prior to its use. [2] (#cite_note-jones-2) Instead diamonds from her own private jewellery were installed in her new crown. Following the coronation, the diamonds were all removed, and the crown stored as a shell. [4] (#cite_note-4) Subsequent history [ edit ] From Adelaide until Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (/wiki/Elizabeth_Bowes-Lyon) , all British queens consort had their own special consort crown made for them, rather than wearing the crowns of any of their predecessors. Later consort crowns were made for Alexandra of Denmark (/wiki/Alexandra_of_Denmark) (1902), Mary of Teck (/wiki/Mary_of_Teck) (1911) and Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (1937). [5] (#cite_note-coronation-5) [6] (#cite_note-mint-6) Camilla Shand (/wiki/Camilla_Shand) was the first queen consort to wear the crown of a predecessor, that of Mary of Teck (albeit modified), since before Queen Adelaide. [7] (#cite_note-7) Queen Adelaide's crown, emptied of its jewels and discarded by the royal family, was loaned to the Museum of London (/wiki/Museum_of_London) by the Amherst family from 1933 until 1985. [8] (#cite_note-8) It was purchased by Asprey (/wiki/Asprey) in 1987 and later acquired by Jefri Bolkiah, Prince of Brunei (/wiki/Jefri_Bolkiah,_Prince_of_Brunei) , who presented it to the United Kingdom. [9] (#cite_note-crownjewels-9) It had been valued at £425,000 in 1995 for the purposes of an application to export the crown to the United States. [10] (#cite_note-10) The application was withdrawn during a review by the Reviewing Committee on the Export of Works of Art (/wiki/Reviewing_Committee_on_the_Export_of_Works_of_Art) . [9] (#cite_note-crownjewels-9) It is part of the Royal Collection (/wiki/Royal_Collection) and was on public display in the Martin Tower at the Tower of London (/wiki/Tower_of_London) from 1996-2023. [11] (#cite_note-11) Footnotes [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Mary of Modena's Crown of State 1685" (https://www.rct.uk/collection/search#/1/collection/31707/mary-of-modenas-crown-of-state) . Royal Collection Trust (/wiki/Royal_Collection#Management) . Retrieved 1 November 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b Jones F.S.A., William (1883). Crowns and Coronations: A History of Regalia . London: Chatto and Windus. p. 44 . Retrieved 1 November 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Keay, Anne (2012). The Crown Jewels: The Official Illustrated History (reprint ed.). Thames & Hudson. p. 58. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-5002-8982-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Reviewing Committee on the Export of Works of Art (1995). Export of Works of Art; Report . Vol. 38, part 1991. H.M. Stationery Office. p. 49. ^ (#cite_ref-coronation_5-0) "The Coronation of King Edward VII; the Crowning of Queen Alexandra" (https://www.rct.uk/collection/404488/the-coronation-of-king-edward-vii-the-crowning-of-queen-alexandra) . Royal Collection Trust . Retrieved 1 November 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-mint_6-0) "The Crown of Mary of Modena" (https://www.royalmint.com/our-coins/events/tower-of-london/2019/the-crown-of-mary-of-modena/) . Royal Mint (/wiki/Royal_Mint) . Retrieved 1 November 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Queen Mary's Crown is removed from display at the Tower of London ahead of the Coronation" (https://www.royal.uk/queen-consort-crown-coronation) . The Royal Family . 14 February 2023 . Retrieved 14 February 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Crown Jewels" (https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/written-answers/1995/dec/18/crown-jewels#S6CV0268P0_19951218_CWA_118) . Parliamentary Debates (Hansard) (/wiki/Hansard) . Vol. 268. United Kingdom: House of Commons. 18 December 1995. col. 853W. ^ Jump up to: a b "Crown Jewels" (https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/written-answers/1995/dec/12/crown-jewels#column_566w) . Parliamentary Debates (Hansard) (/wiki/Hansard) . Vol. 268. United Kingdom: House of Commons. 12 December 1995. col. 566W. ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Coronation Crown of Queen Adelaide" (https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/written-answers/1995/nov/22/coronation-crown-of-queen-adelaide) . Parliamentary Debates (Hansard) (/wiki/Hansard) . Vol. 267. United Kingdom: House of Commons. 22 November 1995. col. 158-9W. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Goodwin, Stephen (17 December 1996). "Crowning glory at Tower exhibition" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/crowning-glory-at-tower-exhibition-1314902.html) . The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) . London . Retrieved 7 July 2016 . ^ (#ref_use) . v t e Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom) Crowns Principal crowns St Edward's Crown (/wiki/St_Edward%27s_Crown) Imperial State Crown (/wiki/Imperial_State_Crown) Consort crowns Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother's Crown (/wiki/Crown_of_Queen_Elizabeth_The_Queen_Mother) Queen Mary's Crown (/wiki/Crown_of_Queen_Mary) Queen Alexandra's Crown (/wiki/Crown_of_Queen_Alexandra) Queen Adelaide's Crown Mary of Modena's State Crown (/wiki/State_Crown_of_Mary_of_Modena) Coronets Coronet of Charles, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Coronet_of_Charles,_Prince_of_Wales) Coronet of George, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Coronet_of_George,_Prince_of_Wales) Coronet of Frederick, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Coronet_of_Frederick,_Prince_of_Wales) Others Imperial Crown of India (/wiki/Imperial_Crown_of_India) Queen Victoria's Small Diamond Crown (/wiki/Small_Diamond_Crown_of_Queen_Victoria) George IV's Coronation Crown (/wiki/Coronation_Crown_of_George_IV) George I's State Crown (/wiki/State_Crown_of_George_I) Tudor Crown (/wiki/Tudor_Crown) † Coronations robes and ornaments Robes (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Robes) Spurs (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Spurs) Armills (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Armills) Orbs (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Orbs) Rings (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Rings) Sceptres (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Sceptres) Precious stones Cullinan I (/wiki/Cullinan_Diamond) Cullinan II (/wiki/Cullinan_Diamond) Koh-i-Noor (/wiki/Koh-i-Noor) Black Prince's Ruby (/wiki/Black_Prince%27s_Ruby) St Edward's Sapphire (/wiki/St_Edward%27s_Sapphire) Stuart Sapphire (/wiki/Stuart_Sapphire) Anointing objects Ampulla (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Anointing_objects) Coronation Spoon (/wiki/Coronation_Spoon) Processional objects Swords (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Swords) Curtana (/wiki/Curtana) St Edward's Staff (/wiki/St_Edward%27s_Staff) Trumpets (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Trumpets) Maces (/wiki/Ceremonial_maces_in_the_British_Isles#Crown_Jewels) Plate and fonts Altar plate (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Altar_plate) Banqueting plate (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Banqueting_plate) Christening fonts (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom#Christening_fonts) Lily Font (/wiki/Lily_Font) Related Honours of Scotland (/wiki/Honours_of_Scotland) Honours of the Principality of Wales (/wiki/Honours_of_the_Principality_of_Wales) Elizabeth II's jewels (/wiki/Elizabeth_II%27s_jewels) Diamond Diadem (/wiki/Diamond_Diadem) Great H of Scotland (/wiki/Great_H_of_Scotland) † Mirror of Great Britain (/wiki/Mirror_of_Great_Britain) † The Three Brothers (/wiki/Three_Brothers_(jewel)) † Irish Crown Jewels (/wiki/Irish_Crown_Jewels) † Crown Jeweller (/wiki/Crown_Jeweller) †Lost/destroyed v t e Crowns (/wiki/Crown) Albania Helmet of Skanderbeg (/wiki/Arms_of_Skanderbeg#The_helmet) (Vienna) Austria Archducal hat of Austria (/wiki/Archducal_hat) (Klosterneuburg) Imperial Crown of Austria (/wiki/Imperial_Crown_of_Austria) (Vienna) Brilliant Crown of Empress Elisabeth (/w/index.php?title=Brilliant_Crown_of_Empress_Elisabeth&action=edit&redlink=1) ( de (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brillantkrone_der_Kaiserin_Elisabeth_von_%C3%96sterreich) ) (missing) Archducal hat of Tyrol (/wiki/Archducal_hat_of_Tyrol) (Mariastein) Ducal hat of Styria (/wiki/Ducal_hat_of_Styria) (Graz) Archducal hat of Joseph II (/wiki/Archducal_hat_of_Joseph_II) (Vienna) Bohemia (/wiki/Bohemia) Crown of Saint Wenceslas (/wiki/Crown_of_Saint_Wenceslas) (Prague) Crown of the Środa Treasure (/wiki/%C5%9Aroda_Treasure) (Środa Śląska) Brazil Crown of Pedro I (/wiki/Crown_of_Pedro_I) (Petrópolis) Imperial Crown of Brazil (/wiki/Imperial_Crown_of_Brazil) (Petrópolis) Coronet of the Imperial Prince of Brazil 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Diamond Crown of Queen Victoria (/wiki/Small_Diamond_Crown_of_Queen_Victoria) (London) Crown of Queen Alexandra (/wiki/Crown_of_Queen_Alexandra) (London) Coronet of George, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Coronet_of_George,_Prince_of_Wales) (London) Crown of Queen Mary (/wiki/Crown_of_Queen_Mary) (London) Imperial Crown of India (/wiki/Imperial_Crown_of_India) (London) Crown of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother (/wiki/Crown_of_Queen_Elizabeth_The_Queen_Mother) (London) Coronet of Charles, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Coronet_of_Charles,_Prince_of_Wales) (London) Bulgaria Diamond Crown of Bulgaria (/wiki/Diamond_Crown_of_Bulgaria) (missing) China Futou (/wiki/Futou) Yishanguan (/w/index.php?title=Yishanguan&action=edit&redlink=1) Tongtianguan (/wiki/Tongtianguanfu) Mianguan (/wiki/Mianguan) Croatia Crown of Zvonimir (/wiki/Crown_of_Zvonimir) (missing) Denmark Crown of Christian IV (/wiki/Crown_of_Christian_IV) (Copenhagen) Crown of Christian V (/wiki/Crown_of_Christian_V) (Copenhagen) Crown of the 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Crown of Wilhelm I (/w/index.php?title=Crown_of_Wilhelm_I&action=edit&redlink=1) (missing) Crown of Queen Augusta (/w/index.php?title=Crown_of_Queen_Augusta&action=edit&redlink=1) (missing) Crown of Wilhelm II (/wiki/Crown_of_Wilhelm_II) (Hohenzollern Castle) Saxony (/wiki/Electorate_of_Saxony) : Electoral Hat of Saxony (/w/index.php?title=Electoral_Hat_of_Saxony&action=edit&redlink=1) (Dresden) Crown of Augustus II the Strong (/wiki/Crown_of_Augustus_II_the_Strong) (Dresden) Funeral Crown of Augustus II the Strong (/w/index.php?title=Funeral_Crown_of_Augustus_II_the_Strong&action=edit&redlink=1) (Dresden) Württemberg (/wiki/Kingdom_of_W%C3%BCrttemberg) : Royal Crown of Württemberg (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_W%C3%BCrttemberg) (Stuttgart) Greece Crown of Greece (/wiki/Greek_crown_jewels) (Athens) Haiti (/wiki/Second_Empire_of_Haiti) Crown of Faustin I (/wiki/Crown_of_Faustin_I) Hawaii (/wiki/Hawaiian_Kingdom) Crown of King Kalākaua (/wiki/Crown_of_Hawaii) (Honolulu) Crown of Queen 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(Redirected from Slow and Steady Wins the Race (/w/index.php?title=Slow_and_Steady_Wins_the_Race&redirect=no) ) American fashion designer "Slow and Steady Wins the Race" redirects here. For other uses, see Slow and Steady Wins the Race (disambiguation) (/wiki/Slow_and_Steady_Wins_the_Race_(disambiguation)) . Mary Ping (born 1978) is an American fashion designer based in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) . She is best known for her conceptual label "Slow and Steady Wins the Race" (founded in New York in 2001-2), although she has also designed under her own label. [1] (#cite_note-hazel-1) [2] (#cite_note-mocanyc-2) Biography [ edit ] Ping studied fine art at Vassar College (/wiki/Vassar_College) , graduating in 2000. The following year, aged 23, she launched her label. Apart from having attended design courses at the London College of Fashion (/wiki/London_College_of_Fashion) , and working as an intern with Robert Cary-Williams (/wiki/Robert_Cary-Williams) , she had had little formal training. [3] (#cite_note-va-3) In 2004, Mary Ping was one of five winners of the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award (/w/index.php?title=Ecco_Domani_Fashion_Foundation_Award&action=edit&redlink=1) . As of 2007 her designs were sold in New York, Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) , and Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) . [3] (#cite_note-va-3) Her bi-annual collections focused upon sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) designs featuring simple, multi-functional shapes, mix-and-match separates for daywear, and deceptively simple evening wear. [3] (#cite_note-va-3) In 2008, her work was described as based on postmodern architecture (/wiki/Postmodern_architecture) and natural forms, with asymmetrical elements. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2007, Ping's work was selected along with designs by Zac Posen (/wiki/Zac_Posen) , Proenza Schouler (/wiki/Proenza_Schouler) , Derek Lam (/wiki/Derek_Lam) , and Behnaz Sarafpour (/wiki/Behnaz_Sarafpour) to represent contemporary sportswear in the Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) 's New York Fashion Now exhibition. [3] (#cite_note-va-3) Her alternative label, Slow and Steady , was also featured in the Avant-Garde section of the V&A exhibition. [3] (#cite_note-va-3) Ping was inducted into the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) in 2007. [2] (#cite_note-mocanyc-2) As of 2013, Mary Ping has ceased designing under her own name. [1] (#cite_note-hazel-1) Her work is part of the permanent collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, [5] (#cite_note-5) Museum at F.I.T., [6] (#cite_note-6) the R.I.S.D. Museum, [7] (#cite_note-7) Deste Foundation, [8] (#cite_note-8) and the Fondation d’entreprise Galeries Lafayette. [9] (#cite_note-9) She is a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Slow and Steady Wins the Race [ edit ] "Balenciaga" bag by Mary Ping, cotton twill & brass, 2007. RISD Museum (/wiki/RISD_Museum) At the time of the Victoria and Albert Museum's exhibition in 2007, Slow and Steady Wins the Race was presented as having been founded in the Upper East Side (/wiki/Upper_East_Side) in 2001 by an anonymous 23-year-old creator born in New York. [3] (#cite_note-va-3) However, Ping was openly linked with the label as early as 2005, [10] (#cite_note-10) and by 2008, was increasingly known as the label's founder. [11] (#cite_note-11) The concept of the label in 2005 was to offer inexpensive, affordable designs in limited numbers (originally 100, but increased to 3500), retailing for less than $100 apiece. [3] (#cite_note-va-3) Described as anti-consumerist, it was intended to offer designs that challenged the obsolescence (/wiki/Obsolescence) of the output of the traditional fashion industry. [3] (#cite_note-va-3) One of Slow and Steady Wins the Race's best-known lines was their re-interpretations of It Bags (/wiki/It_Bag) based on designer bags by Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) , Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) , and Dior (/wiki/Dior) among others. Made in calico and reduced to the bare essentials, custom-made designer fittings were replaced by equivalent metalwork from hardware stores (/wiki/Hardware_store) . [1] (#cite_note-hazel-1) [3] (#cite_note-va-3) [12] (#cite_note-green-12) In 2017, Slow and Steady Wins the Race received Cooper Hewitt's National Design Award for achievements in Fashion Design. [13] (#cite_note-13) In 2017, Slow and Steady Wins the Race was featured in MoMA's fashion exhibit: Items: Is Fashion Modern? , which explores the present, past—and sometimes the future—of 111 items of clothing and accessories that have had a strong impact on the world in the 20th and 21st centuries—and continue to hold currency today. This was MoMA's first fashion exhibit in 70 years. See also [ edit ] Chinese Americans in New York City (/wiki/Chinese_Americans_in_New_York_City) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c Clark, Hazel (2013). Adam Geczy; Vicki Karaminas (/wiki/Vicki_Karaminas) (eds.). 'Conceptual Fashion' in Fashion and art . London: Berg. p. 72. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0857852137 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Female, Fashionable, New York featuring Mary Ping from Slow and Steady Wins the Race and Jade Lai from Creatures of Comfort" (http://www.mocanyc.org/visit/events/female_fashionable_new_york_featuring_mary_ping_from_slow_and_steady_wins_the_race_and_) . Museum of Chinese in America . Retrieved 20 November 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i Mary Ping (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/contemporary-new-york-fashion/) in the New York Fashion Now exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum ^ (#cite_ref-4) Shearer, Benjamin F., ed. (2008). Culture and Customs of the United States Volume 2: Culture (1. publ. ed.). Westport, Conn. [u.a.]: Greenwood Press. p. 222. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313338779 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Bette dress by Mary Ping" (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1363639/bette-dress-mary-ping/) . Explore the Collections . Victoria and Albert Museum . Retrieved 11 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Bag by Mary Ping" (https://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/objects/126688/2005631) . fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu . FIT Museum . Retrieved 11 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) " (https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/balenciaga-2008272) "Balenciaga" bag by Mary Ping" (https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/balenciaga-2008272) . risdmuseum.org . RISD Museum . Retrieved 11 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Diller Scofidio + RENFRO" (https://deste.gr/fashion-collection/diller-scofidio-renfro-2/) . DESTE Foundation for Contemporary Art . Retrieved 11 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Staff writer. "Mary Ping" (https://www.lafayetteanticipations.com/en/artiste/mary-ping?archive=1) . Lafayette Anticipations . Fondation Galeries Lafayette . Retrieved 11 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Lenander, Johanna (4 February 2005). "The Next Big Things" (http://www.nysun.com/style/next-big-things/8744/) . The New York Sun . Retrieved 20 November 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Davies, Hywel (2008). 100 new fashion designers . London, U.K.: Laurence King Pub. p. 331. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781856695718 . ^ (#cite_ref-green_12-0) Blanchard, Tamsin (2007). Green is the new black : how to change the world with style (2. printing. ed.). London: Hodder & Stoughton. p. 155. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780340954300 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "2017 National Design Award Winners | Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum" (https://www.cooperhewitt.org/national-design-awards/2017-national-design-awards-winners/) . Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum . 2017-05-04 . Retrieved 2018-04-17 . External links [ edit ] [1] (https://web.archive.org/web/20100206141939/http://www.thememagazine.com/stories/mary-ping/) Theme magazine profile v t e American sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) 20th century sportswear designers Adri (/wiki/Adrienne_Steckling-Coen) Bill Atkinson (/wiki/Bill_Atkinson_(designer)) Louella Ballerino (/wiki/Louella_Ballerino) Jhane Barnes (/wiki/Jhane_Barnes) Geoffrey Beene (/wiki/Geoffrey_Beene) Tom Brigance (/wiki/Tom_Brigance) Donald Brooks (/wiki/Donald_Brooks) Stephen Burrows (/wiki/Stephen_Burrows_(designer)) Jeanne Campbell (/wiki/Jeanne_S._Campbell) Bonnie Cashin (/wiki/Bonnie_Cashin) Kenneth Cole (/wiki/Kenneth_Cole_(designer)) Liz Claiborne (/wiki/Liz_Claiborne) Perry Ellis (/wiki/Perry_Ellis) Anne Fogarty (/wiki/Anne_Fogarty) Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) Rudi Gernreich (/wiki/Rudi_Gernreich) Halston (/wiki/Halston) Elizabeth Hawes (/wiki/Elizabeth_Hawes) Tommy Hilfiger (/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger) Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) Norma Kamali (/wiki/Norma_Kamali) Donna Karan (/wiki/Donna_Karan) Muriel King (/wiki/Muriel_King) Anne Klein (/wiki/Anne_Klein_(fashion_designer)) Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) Michael Kors (/wiki/Michael_Kors) Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) Tina Leser (/wiki/Tina_Leser) Vera Maxwell (/wiki/Vera_Maxwell) Claire McCardell (/wiki/Claire_McCardell) Isaac Mizrahi (/wiki/Isaac_Mizrahi) Clare Potter (/wiki/Clare_Potter) Clovis Ruffin (/wiki/Clovis_Ruffin) Giorgio di Sant' Angelo (/wiki/Giorgio_di_Sant%27_Angelo) Carolyn Schnurer (/wiki/Carolyn_Schnurer) Diane von Fürstenberg (/wiki/Diane_von_F%C3%BCrstenberg) Vera Wang (/wiki/Vera_Wang) John Weitz (/wiki/John_Weitz) Emily Wilkens (/wiki/Emily_Wilkens) Sydney Wragge (/wiki/Sydney_Wragge) Zoran (/wiki/Zoran_(designer)) 21st century sportswear designers Derek Lam (/wiki/Derek_Lam) Mary Ping Zac Posen (/wiki/Zac_Posen) Proenza Schouler (/wiki/Proenza_Schouler) Behnaz Sarafpour (/wiki/Behnaz_Sarafpour) Notable designs Popover (dress) (/wiki/Popover_(dress)) Wrap dress (/wiki/Wrap_dress) Other associated people Richard Martin (/wiki/Richard_Martin_(curator)) Dorothy Shaver (/wiki/Dorothy_Shaver) See also The American Look (/wiki/American_Look_(fashion_movement)) Clothing terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) History of clothing (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : Artists Museum of Modern Art (https://www.moma.org/artists/68813) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐wp6tp Cached time: 20240713001256 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.299 seconds Real time usage: 0.397 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 885/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 31923/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 404/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 59024/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.202/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4963628/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 349.170 1 -total 39.75% 138.784 1 Template:Reflist 26.46% 92.382 4 Template:Cite_book 22.20% 77.520 1 Template:American_sportswear 21.24% 74.162 1 Template:Navbox 18.62% 65.007 1 Template:Short_description 10.34% 36.091 2 Template:Pagetype 8.56% 29.900 1 Template:Authority_control 8.30% 28.967 1 Template:Redirect 5.63% 19.647 6 Template:Cite_web Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:21925704-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713001256 and revision id 1162056481. 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Fashion event in Mexico Fashion Week Mexico City is a semi-annual fashion week (/wiki/Fashion_week) event held in Mexico City (/wiki/Mexico_City) , Mexico (/wiki/Mexico) . [1] (#cite_note-forbes-1) The Autumn/Winter fashion week takes place during the late first quarter or the year, and the Spring/Summer fashion week is held during the early fourth quarter or the year. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-forbes_1-0) "Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico City, todos los detalles" (https://www.forbes.com.mx/forbes-life/mercedes-benz-fashion-week-mexico-city-todos-los-detalles/) . forbes.com.mx . Retrieved 2018-12-11 . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.fashionweek.mx) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191012103849/https://www.fashionweek.mx/) 2019-10-12 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) v t e Fashion weeks (/wiki/Fashion_week) By location "Big four" New York (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) London (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) Milan (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) Paris (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) Others Amsterdam (/wiki/Amsterdam_Fashion_Week) Australia (/wiki/Australian_Fashion_Week) Boston (/wiki/Boston_Fashion_Week) Brisbane (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Fashion_Festival_Brisbane) Berlin (/wiki/Berlin_Fashion_Week) Colombo (/wiki/Colombo_Fashion_Week) Copenhagen (/wiki/Copenhagen_Fashion_Week) Detroit (/wiki/Detroit_Fashion_Week) India (/wiki/India_Fashion_Week) Jakarta (/wiki/Jakarta_Fashion_Week) Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur_Fashion_Week) Lagos (/wiki/Lagos_Fashion_Week) Lahore and Karachi (/wiki/PFDC_Sunsilk_Fashion_Week) Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Fashion_Week) Madrid (/wiki/Madrid_Fashion_Week) Malta (/w/index.php?title=Malta_Fashion_Week&action=edit&redlink=1) Mexico City Miami (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Fashion_Week_Miami) New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand_Fashion_Week) Ottawa (/wiki/Ottawa_Fashion_Week) Port Harcourt, Nigeria (/wiki/Port_Harcourt_International_Fashion_Week) Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_Fashion_Week) São Paulo (/wiki/S%C3%A3o_Paulo_Fashion_Week) Sibiu, Romania (/wiki/Feeric_Fashion_Week) Singapore (/wiki/Singapore_Fashion_Week) Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai_Fashion_Week) Shenzhen (/w/index.php?title=Shenzhen_Fashion_Week&action=edit&redlink=1) Tbilisi (/wiki/Tbilisi_Fashion_Week) Toronto (/wiki/Toronto_Fashion_Week) Vancouver (/wiki/Vancouver_Fashion_Week) Yangon, Myanmar (/wiki/Myanmar_International_Fashion_Week) See also List of fashion events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) This fashion (/wiki/Fashion) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Fashion_Week_Mexico_City&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐jg9sg Cached time: 20240713150647 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.196 seconds Real time usage: 0.273 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 309/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 15653/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 340/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 15887/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.145/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3690370/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 246.392 1 -total 33.79% 83.247 1 Template:Fashion_weeks 32.65% 80.458 1 Template:Navbox 30.09% 74.145 1 Template:Cite_web 25.72% 63.382 1 Template:Short_description 14.20% 34.994 2 Template:Pagetype 7.47% 18.395 2 Template:Main_other 6.82% 16.793 1 Template:SDcat 6.15% 15.153 1 Template:Fashion-stub 5.42% 13.363 1 Template:Asbox Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:59352597-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713150647 and revision id 1185241853. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Fashion_Week_Mexico_City&oldid=1185241853 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Fashion_Week_Mexico_City&oldid=1185241853) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Fashion weeks (/wiki/Category:Fashion_weeks) Fashion stubs (/wiki/Category:Fashion_stubs) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Webarchive template wayback links (/wiki/Category:Webarchive_template_wayback_links) All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)
Alsco Industry Linen and Uniform Rental Services Founded 1889 ; 135 years ago ( 1889 ) Founder George A. Steiner Headquarters Salt Lake City (/wiki/Salt_Lake_City) ( Utah (/wiki/Utah) ), United States (/wiki/United_States) Key people Co- CEOs (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) Kevin Steiner and Robert Steiner Number of employees 20,000+ Website www.alsco.com (http://www.alsco.com) Alsco (American Linen Supply Company) is an American company, it is a linen and uniform-rental business service provider to restaurants, health care organizations, the automotive industry and industrial facilities. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Having around 180 locations, with 355,000 customers in 14 countries, Alsco ranked #380 in Forbes 2007 list of America's Largest Private Companies . [3] (#cite_note-3) History [ edit ] During the 1890s economic slump that saw a sharp decline in corn prices which greatly affected Nebraska’s economy weather—drought, blizzards and early frosts—compounded the problems. As a result the Lincoln Towel and Apron Supply Company, along with most other businesses, began to struggle. As customers reduced their accounts, the young Steiner brothers found it difficult to continue. George decided to relocate to Salt Lake City and continue the business. In Salt Lake City, George’s business grew rapidly, and by 1899, it was large enough for George to rent his first plant, located on First South at the site of the old Morgan Hotel. This plant would allow George’s company, now called American Linen, to launder and process its own linens rather than contracting out the work to competitive laundries. From there, the company continued to grow. In 1910, American Linen added a new processing plant at 33 East and Six South, where the Grand America Hotel now stands. And in the early 1990s, it built its current local facility in West Valley City. [4] (#cite_note-4) The present day company, a private family enterprise that has existed for over 130 years as of 2021, employs more than 20,000 people in multiple locations across countries worldwide. It is still managed, owned and operated by members, i.e. progeny of the original founder and owner’s family, Kevin and Robert Steiner. [5] (#cite_note-5) Services [ edit ] Alsco provides linen- and uniform-rental services to customers that include restaurants, health care organizations, the automotive industry and industrial facilities. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Company Overview of Alsco Inc" (https://www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=4529223) . Bloomberg News (/wiki/Bloomberg_News) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Alsco opens linen service facility in Prince George's County" (https://open.maryland.gov/blog/alsco-opens-linen-service-facility-in-prince-georges-county/) . open.maryland.gov . Government of Maryland (/wiki/Government_of_Maryland) . 5 April 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "America's Largest Private Companies" (https://www.forbes.com/lists/2008/21/privates08_Alsco_XW0K.html) . Forbes.com (/wiki/Forbes.com) . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "This linen-delivery company worth $50 in 1889 has quietly become an international, 4th-generation Utah success story" (https://www.sltrib.com/news/business/2017/11/25/this-linen-delivery-company-worth-50-in-1889-has-quietly-become-an-international-4th-generation-utah-success-story/) . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "About Alsco" (https://alsco.com/about/) . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.alsco.com/) "National Linen & Uniform Service Sold to Alsco; Transaction Vastly Expands Geographic Reach of Largest U.S. Linen Service Company" (https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20060831005560/en/National-Linen-Uniform-Service-Sold-Alsco-Transaction) . businesswire.com . Businesswire (/wiki/Businesswire) . 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Asia portal (/wiki/Portal:Asia) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Schools portal (/wiki/Portal:Schools) National Institute of Fashion Technology NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5b8f7f4b65‐djqd6 Cached time: 20240622191912 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.033 seconds Real time usage: 0.049 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 21/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 1496/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 3/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 1041/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.019/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 769795/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 37.765 1 Template:Portal 100.00% 37.765 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:32019234-0!canonical and timestamp 20240622191912 and revision id 1133593793. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 2 subcategories, out of 2 total. I Fashion schools in India (/wiki/Category:Fashion_schools_in_India) ‎ (1 C, 12 P) P Fashion schools in Pakistan (/wiki/Category:Fashion_schools_in_Pakistan) ‎ (5 P) Pages in category "Fashion schools in Asia" The following 3 pages are in this category, out of 3 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . B Bunka Fashion College (/wiki/Bunka_Fashion_College) N National Institute of Fashion Technology (/wiki/National_Institute_of_Fashion_Technology) R Raffles Design Institute (/wiki/Raffles_Design_Institute) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Fashion_schools_in_Asia&oldid=1133593793 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Fashion_schools_in_Asia&oldid=1133593793) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Fashion schools (/wiki/Category:Fashion_schools) Schools in Asia (/wiki/Category:Schools_in_Asia) Asian fashion (/wiki/Category:Asian_fashion)
hide "Of Current Interest" List (here be weblinks) Books Kwaidan The God Effect Music Kenna - (https://www.amazon.com/New-Sacred-Cow-Kenna/dp/B00009MGQ1/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/104-5544792-2536715?ie=UTF8&s=music&qid=1190166687&sr=1-1) New Sacred Cow Emer Kenny - (https://www.amazon.com/Emer-Kenny/dp/B0000057RQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=music&qid=1238707402&sr=8-3) Emer Kenny Movies Silent Hill 28 Days Later Children of Men Moose Wikipedia:Babel (/wiki/Wikipedia:Babel) en (/wiki/English_language) This user is a native speaker (/wiki/Category:User_en-N) of the English language (/wiki/English_language) . en-us (/wiki/American_English) -user64 Like 64% of native English speakers (/wiki/English_language#Geographical_distribution) , this user speaks American English (/wiki/American_English) . es (/wiki/Spanish_language) -3 Este usuario puede contribuir con un nivel avanzado (/wiki/Category:User_es-3) de español (/wiki/Category:User_es) . ja (/wiki/Japanese_language) -2 この利用者は 中級 (/wiki/Category:User_ja-2) の 日本語 (/wiki/Category:User_ja) ができます。 fr (/wiki/French_language) -2 Cet utilisateur peut contribuer avec un niveau intermédiaire (/wiki/Category:User_fr-2) en français (/wiki/Category:User_fr) . la (/wiki/Latin) -2 Hic usor media (/wiki/Category:User_la-2) latinitate (/wiki/Category:User_la) contribuere potest. de (/wiki/German_language) -1 Dieser Benutzer hat grundlegende (/wiki/Category:User_de-1) Deutschkenntnisse (/wiki/Category:User_de) . ... (/wiki/List_of_languages_by_name) This user would like to be able to speak more languages (/wiki/Index_of_language_articles) . Search user languages (/wiki/Category:Wikipedians_by_language) Shameless Self Promotion This user plays the flamenco guitar (/wiki/Flamenco_guitar) . This user likes most types of music . This user is interested in Roman Catholicism (/wiki/Catholic_Church) . This user believes that evolution (/wiki/Evolution) doesn't have to (/wiki/Theistic_evolution) conflict with (/wiki/Creation-evolution_controversy) Christianity (/wiki/Christianity) . ... This user wishes to study more religions (/wiki/Category:Wikipedians_interested_in_religion) . This user is interested in ghosts (/wiki/Ghost) . This user is interested in the ancient Celts . This user is interested in art history (/wiki/Art_history) . This user knows that math is ∫ ∫ e x y {\displaystyle \int e^{xy}\,} . 6×9=42 This user jokes (/wiki/The_Answer_to_Life,_the_Universe,_and_Everything) in base 13 (/wiki/Base_13) . This user enjoys writing . This user enjoys llama trekking (/wiki/Llama) . ~_~ (/wiki/Category:Wikipedians_interested_in_anime_and_manga) This user is a definite fan (/wiki/Category:Wikipedians_interested_in_anime_and_manga) of anime (/wiki/Anime) . ^^ (/wiki/Category:Wikipedians_interested_in_anime_and_manga) This user is a moderate fan (/wiki/Category:Wikipedians_interested_in_anime_and_manga) of manga (/wiki/Manga) . アニメ sub This user prefers to watch their anime (/wiki/Anime) subbed . デス ノート This user has a Death Note and writes in names of Wikipedia vandals. ES This user is a loyal member of ACROSS (/wiki/Excel_Saga) SC This user will take all you bitches on! (/wiki/Samurai_Champloo) This user is a member of the Ryoma Echizen fan club (/wiki/Prince_of_Tennis) . R This user is a Ravenclaw . SJ This user (/wiki/Category:Wikipedians_by_alma_mater:_Jesuit_schools) studies at, or is an alumnus of, a Jesuit (/wiki/Jesuit) school. This user enjoys rifle shooting (/wiki/Rifle) . This user is an iaidōka . KRAV This user knows Krav Maga. Don't attack this user. Ever. UFC This user is a fan of the Ultimate Fighting Championship . This user is a code monkey (/wiki/Programmer) . This user works in retail (/wiki/Retail) . This user's AOL Instant Messenger (/wiki/AOL_Instant_Messenger) screenname is Mariachi Moose . Web This user has a website (http://www.studio-mus.com) . Web This user has a website (http://www.ignorantmale.com) . wiki-1 This user is a beginning (/wiki/Category:User_Wikitext-1) Wikipedia (/wiki/Wikipedia) editor. Personal [ edit ] I attended Loyola University New Orleans (/wiki/Loyola_University_New_Orleans) as a student of the Music Industry Studies(B.S.) program. I am a Sagittarius (/wiki/Sagittarius) , I enjoy candlelit dinners and long walks on the beach (/wiki/Beach) . Most people just call me Moose, but I have a name—and, if you're nice, I might tell it to you. Interests [ edit ] Music has always been an obsession of mine. In whatever free time I may have I am either listening to, playing, or writing music. I am an avid bookworm and frequent moviegoer. This page will keep a running display of my last film watched and current reading list along with a weekly playlist. I enjoy mechanical puzzles, cooking, sewing, and making jewelry. And other things listed over here → A philomath forever. Professional [ edit ] I used to sell shoes in a popular retail footwear store. All Al Bundy (/wiki/Al_Bundy) jokes shall stop forthwith. I have left this in my profile because I really wish that I still worked retail sometimes. Currently I work in an Internet Technical Support call center as a Training Mentor. When I am not corrupting new reboot monkeys, I make jewelry and sew clothing. A fashion designer, if you must; I prefer "maker of shinies." Educational/Literary Projects [ edit ] Why the Japanese Don't Like Norah Jones (But the Chinese Eat Her Up) - An Exploration of the Radical and the Conventional Acceptance of Western Popular Culture Trends in Asian Nations As Good As Sex: Food and Murder in Asian Cinema Untitled Japanese Mythology Project Growing Up Spanglish: On Not Being Mexican or American Wikipedia Projects [ edit ] The following is a list of topics and pages to which I wish to help improve/contribute Anime [ edit ] Prince of Tennis (/wiki/Prince_of_Tennis) Death Note (/wiki/Death_Note) Excel Saga (/wiki/Excel_Saga) Samurai Champloo (/wiki/Samurai_Champloo) Arts & Sciences [ edit ] Music (/wiki/Music) Japanese Music (/wiki/Music_of_Japan) Jazz (/wiki/Jazz) Flamenco (/wiki/Flamenco) Classical Guitar Music (/wiki/Classical_guitar_repertoire) Mathematics (/wiki/Mathematics) Geometry (/wiki/Geometry) Fractal Geometry (/wiki/Fractal_geometry) Knot Theory (/wiki/Knot_theory) Cryptography (/wiki/Cryptography) Game Theory (/wiki/Game_Theory) Cryptozoology (/wiki/Cryptozoology) Linguistics (/wiki/Linguistics) Current Events [ edit ] Japanese Politics (/wiki/Politics_of_Japan) American Politics (/wiki/Politics_of_the_United_States) Mexican Politics (/wiki/Politics_of_Mexico) Venezuelan Politics (/wiki/Politics_of_Venezuela) Entertainment Law (/wiki/Entertainment_law) Music Industry (/wiki/Music_market) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) [ edit ] Jewellery (/wiki/Jewellery) Knitting (/wiki/Knitting) Crochet (/wiki/Crochet) Haute Couture (/wiki/Haute_Couture) Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) Sewing (/wiki/Sewing) Color (/wiki/Color) Religion & Beliefs [ edit ] Catholicism (/wiki/Catholicism) Roman Catholic Church (/wiki/Roman_Catholic_Church) Christianity (/wiki/Christianity) Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) Islam (/wiki/Islam) Gnosticism (/wiki/Gnosticism) Demons (/wiki/Demon) Angels (/wiki/Angel) Exorcism (/wiki/Exorcism) Mythology (/wiki/Mythology) Japanese Mythology (/wiki/Japanese_mythology) Television [ edit ] The Shield (/wiki/The_Shield) The Simpsons (/wiki/The_Simpsons) Law & Order (/wiki/Law_%26_Order) Picket Fences (/wiki/Picket_Fences) ER (/wiki/ER_(TV_series)) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐7c8c7bfcfc‐npsmx Cached time: 20240711210930 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.373 seconds Real time usage: 0.554 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2349/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 106340/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1958/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 11/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 2110/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.235/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 18497653/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 441.218 1 -total 51.73% 228.246 33 Template:Userbox 50.84% 224.295 1 Template:Babel 46.25% 204.043 8 Template:Userbox-level 35.98% 158.761 4 Template:Lang 32.94% 145.342 1 Template:User_es-3 12.36% 54.540 1 Template:Navbox 6.44% 28.417 1 Template:User_en 4.88% 21.532 1 Template:User_ja-2 2.42% 10.674 1 Wikipedia:WikiProject_Anime_and_manga/Userbox/User_anime-3 Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:12987880-0!canonical and timestamp 20240711210930 and revision id 1142052470. 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Copenhagen Fashion Week is an international fashion event (/wiki/Fashion_week) in Copenhagen (/wiki/Copenhagen) , Denmark. This biannual event is organized by the Danish Fashion Institute (/wiki/Danish_Fashion_Institute) . [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] The first Copenhagen Fashion Week was held in 2006, following the merger of the Danish clothing trade fairs, Dansk Modeuge and Dansk Herremodeuge, which dated back to the 1950s. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Organization [ edit ] Each season, Copenhagen Fashion Week hosts four days of shows, presentations, and events as well as the two trade shows, CIFF and Revolver. [4] (#cite_note-4) Copenhagen Fashion Week is a non-profit organization (/wiki/Nonprofit_organization) run on 15% public funding and 85% commercial partnerships, with the Danish Ministry of Industry, Business and Financial Affairs being the main contributor. [5] (#cite_note-5) The applications for the official Fashion Week schedule are assessed by a committee of representatives from the Scandinavian fashion industry, including press, production professionals, and industry organizations. The Copenhagen Fashion Week secretariat does not participate in the assessment. [6] (#cite_note-6) Sustainability [ edit ] In 2018, the CEO Cecilie Thorsmark established an advisory board and partner institute, in Futurum, to organize sustainability practices for Copenhagen Fashion Week. [7] (#cite_note-7) In 2023, Copenhagen Fashion Week hosted designers from Europe and the US [8] (#cite_note-8) who followed the organizers' implemented sustainability requirements for participating fashion brands. [9] (#cite_note-9) The sustainability standards necessitate that brands demonstrate that a minimum of 50 percent of their collection is composed of certified, preferred, up-cycled, or recycled materials, along with their commitment to due diligence throughout their supply chain. [10] (#cite_note-:0-10) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Ny ambitiøs strategi fra Danish Fashion Institute" (http://fashionforum.dk/2016/08/23/ny-ambitioes-strategi-fra-danish-fashion-institute/) (in Danish). Fashion Forum . Retrieved 29 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Danish fashion history" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180214141956/http://danishfashioninstitute.dk/en/node/720) . Danish Fashion Institute . Archived from the original (http://danishfashioninstitute.dk/en/node/720) on 2018-02-14 . Retrieved 2018-02-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "The History of Copenhagen Fashion Week" (https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/about/history) . Copenhagen Fashion Week . Retrieved 24 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Copenhagen Fashion Week" (https://www.scandinaviastandard.com/copenhagen-fashion-week/) . Scandinavia Standard . Retrieved 24 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Funding and Partners" (https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/about/funding-partners) . Copenhagen Fashion Week . Retrieved 24 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Show Application" (https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/designers/show-application) . Copenhagen Fashion Week . Retrieved 24 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Wightman-Stone, Danielle (2020-01-28). "Copenhagen Fashion Week unveils "radical" sustainability plan" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/copenhagen-fashion-week-unveils-radical-sustainability-plan/2020012847245) . FashionUnited . Retrieved 2024-03-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "A Vibe Change Is Taking Copenhagen Fashion Week Beyond the Ganni Girl and "Copencore" (https://www.vogue.com/article/a-vibe-change-is-taking-copenhagen-fashion-week-beyond-the-ganni-girl-and-copencore) " (https://www.vogue.com/article/a-vibe-change-is-taking-copenhagen-fashion-week-beyond-the-ganni-girl-and-copencore) . Vogue . 2022-08-08 . Retrieved 2024-03-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Circular Economy in Fashion" (http://www.nordiclabourjournal.org/i-fokus/in-focus-2023/circular-economy/article.2023-01-12.2167635265) . Retrieved 24 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-:0_10-0) "How Copenhagen Became The World's Most Sustainable Fashion Week" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/copenhagen-fashion-week-sustainability) . British Vogue . 2023-01-30 . Retrieved 2024-03-22 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.cfw.dk) v t e Fashion weeks (/wiki/Fashion_week) By location "Big four" New York (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) London (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) Milan (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) Paris (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) Others Amsterdam (/wiki/Amsterdam_Fashion_Week) Australia (/wiki/Australian_Fashion_Week) Boston (/wiki/Boston_Fashion_Week) Brisbane (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Fashion_Festival_Brisbane) Berlin (/wiki/Berlin_Fashion_Week) Colombo (/wiki/Colombo_Fashion_Week) Copenhagen Detroit (/wiki/Detroit_Fashion_Week) India (/wiki/India_Fashion_Week) Jakarta (/wiki/Jakarta_Fashion_Week) Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur_Fashion_Week) Lagos (/wiki/Lagos_Fashion_Week) Lahore and Karachi (/wiki/PFDC_Sunsilk_Fashion_Week) Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Fashion_Week) Madrid (/wiki/Madrid_Fashion_Week) Malta (/w/index.php?title=Malta_Fashion_Week&action=edit&redlink=1) Mexico City (/wiki/Fashion_Week_Mexico_City) Miami (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Fashion_Week_Miami) New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand_Fashion_Week) Ottawa (/wiki/Ottawa_Fashion_Week) Port Harcourt, Nigeria (/wiki/Port_Harcourt_International_Fashion_Week) Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_Fashion_Week) São Paulo (/wiki/S%C3%A3o_Paulo_Fashion_Week) Sibiu, Romania (/wiki/Feeric_Fashion_Week) Singapore (/wiki/Singapore_Fashion_Week) Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai_Fashion_Week) Shenzhen (/w/index.php?title=Shenzhen_Fashion_Week&action=edit&redlink=1) Tbilisi (/wiki/Tbilisi_Fashion_Week) Toronto (/wiki/Toronto_Fashion_Week) Vancouver (/wiki/Vancouver_Fashion_Week) Yangon, Myanmar (/wiki/Myanmar_International_Fashion_Week) See also List of fashion events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐r28kt Cached time: 20240712195017 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.235 seconds Real time usage: 0.317 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 562/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 25395/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 190/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 44245/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.168/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3882822/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 283.556 1 -total 49.28% 139.740 1 Template:Reflist 41.07% 116.447 10 Template:Cite_web 34.48% 97.775 1 Template:Fashion_weeks 33.28% 94.354 1 Template:Navbox 16.19% 45.910 1 Template:Official_website 5.15% 14.595 1 Template:Portal-inline 0.61% 1.731 2 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:31943973-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712195017 and revision id 1227346471. 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The Palais des Beaux Arts is a residential and office building at Löwengasse 47-47A in Vienna (/wiki/Vienna) 's third district, Landstraße (/wiki/Landstra%C3%9Fe) . The building has housed the embassies (/wiki/Embassy) of the Republic of Lithuania (/wiki/Lithuania) and the Republic of Moldova (/wiki/Moldova) since 1994. The building was erected between 1908 and 1909 by Anton and Josef Drexler, who also designed several houses on Rudolf-von-Alt-Platz and contributed other designs to the surrounding Weißgerberviertel quarter of the district. The building was originally built as home to Chic Parisien, a center for fashion. Design [ edit ] Its architecture features an original combination of elements of late Historicism (/wiki/Historicism) and decorative motifs of West European Art Nouveau (/wiki/Art_Nouveau) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Austrian architecture critic Friedrich Achleitner (/wiki/Friedrich_Achleitner) lauded the structure for its rational ground plan and its contrasting, almost Baroque (/wiki/Baroque) , abundance of decoration. He considered this layout noteworthy because it made the building easily adjustable. [2] (#cite_note-2) The structure is dominated by a corner tower that resembles an inserted hinge, flanked by female figures holding globes. The interior features a vestibule decorated with floral stucco (/wiki/Stucco) and reliefs (/wiki/Relief) of female figures in the staircase. [3] (#cite_note-3) History [ edit ] The building has been home to a varied exhibition program since 2014, [4] (#cite_note-4) where alternating arts projects are displayed via Wi-Fi (/wiki/Wi-Fi) in and around the Palais des Beaux Arts, for visitors using smartphones (/wiki/Smartphone) and tablets (/wiki/Tablet_computer) . [5] (#cite_note-5) Images [ edit ] Palais des Beaux Arts, View of corner tower with main entrance Figures with globe, Palais des Beaux Arts Relief of female figures, Vestibule, Palais des Beaux Arts Detail of Paracelsusgasse façade, Palais des Beaux Arts Group of figures on the north-western façade, Palais des Beaux Arts References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Czeike, Felix (/wiki/Felix_Czeike) . Historisches Lexikon Wien, Volume 4 . p. 480. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Achleitner, Friedrich (1990). Österreichische Architektur im 20. Jahrhundert, Vol. III/1 . Salzburg and Vienna: Residenz Verlag. p. 127. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Dehio Wien II-IX, XX . p. 119. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Rudolf, Tanja (June 21, 2014). "Fidel durch den Dritten" (http://diepresse.com/home/leben/wohnen/3824696/Rasumofskygasse_Fidel-durch-den-Dritten) . Die Presse . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Bernard Garnicnig über die "virtuelle Galerie" im Wiener Palais des Beaux Arts (http://oe1.orf.at/programm/394402) , Ö1 Leporello (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leporello_(H%C3%B6rfunksendung)) , January 13, 2015. External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.palaisdesbeauxarts.at/) Anton Drexler - Architektenlexikon Architekturzentrum Wien (http://www.architektenlexikon.at/de/97.htm) Josef Drexler - Architektenlexikon Architekturzentrum Wien (http://www.architektenlexikon.at/de/98.htm) WikiMiniAtlas 48°12′25″N 16°23′39″E  /  48.20682°N 16.39421°E  / 48.20682; 16.39421 NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐6f5ccb59c8‐s5t6d Cached time: 20240623215754 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.313 seconds Real time usage: 0.462 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 332/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 7095/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 195/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 20586/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.201/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3212149/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 404.980 1 -total 60.87% 246.511 1 Template:Reflist 48.71% 197.252 3 Template:Cite_book 31.80% 128.802 1 Template:Official_website 7.25% 29.366 1 Template:Coord 2.75% 11.132 1 Template:Cite_journal 0.76% 3.075 2 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:54841154-0!canonical and timestamp 20240623215754 and revision id 1160358433. 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Imitation Formerly Imitation of Christ Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) Founded 2000 Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) , California (/wiki/California) , U.S. [1] (#cite_note-1) Founder Tara Subkoff (/wiki/Tara_Subkoff) Matthew Damhave Owner Tara Subkoff (2001-2007; 2012-present) Josh Sparks (2007-2008) Imitation of Christ is a conceptual art (/wiki/Conceptual_art) project and fashion label (/wiki/Fashion_label) started by former American (/wiki/United_States) art students Matthew Damhave and Tara Subkoff (/wiki/Tara_Subkoff) . The project initially began as an art collective, evolving into a fashion line made up of entirely recycled (/wiki/Recycle) pieces of clothing, which Subkoff and others hand-sewed. The group enacted " guerrilla (/wiki/Guerrilla) "-style fashion shows, with models including Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) and Chloë Sevigny (/wiki/Chlo%C3%AB_Sevigny) . In 2007, Subkoff sold the brand, but re-adopted it under the shortened title Imitation in 2012. [ citation needed ] History [ edit ] Original conception: 2000–2006 [ edit ] Exhibition in 2002, which featured sex models half-nude, vacuuming carpets Originally conceived as an art collective (/wiki/Art_collective) in 2000, Imitation of Christ was founded by former art students Tara Subkoff (/wiki/Tara_Subkoff) and Matthew Damhave. Subkoff had dropped out of art school and had worked as an actress prior to forming the project. The project, according to Subkoff, was quickly "confused" by many to be a fashion line, [2] (#cite_note-harpers-2) which led to the pair designing a total of four collections together before Damhave left the project in 2001. Named after the fifteenth-century devotional text of the same name (/wiki/The_Imitation_of_Christ) , as well as a Psychedelic Furs (/wiki/The_Psychedelic_Furs) song, [3] (#cite_note-3) their shows were theatrical, political (one season, they demanded money from guests and donated it to charities), while simultaneously intriguing fashion editors with beautiful clothes. In its earliest forms, Subkoff appointed Chloë Sevigny (/wiki/Chlo%C3%AB_Sevigny) as the line's creative director. [4] (#cite_note-post-4) The exhibitions were described as guerrilla (/wiki/Guerrilla) in style, [5] (#cite_note-chloe-5) with their early shows being held in a funeral parlor (/wiki/Funeral_parlor) in the Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) 's East Village (/wiki/East_Village,_Manhattan) . [6] (#cite_note-overview-6) Models who wore the pieces for runway shows included actress Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) , [7] (#cite_note-sept2005-7) [8] (#cite_note-runway-8) and included both men's and women's pieces. [9] (#cite_note-vogue-9) Every piece of clothing in the line was sewn by hand and recycled (/wiki/Recycle) from vintage (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) , thrift (/wiki/Charity_shop) and Goodwill (/wiki/Goodwill_Industries) shops. Subkoff created pieces of wearable art (/wiki/Wearable_art) with her fashion shows which garnered her a cult following (/wiki/Cult_following) . [7] (#cite_note-sept2005-7) In reflecting on the line's ethos, Subkoff said: We were talking about waste (/wiki/Waste) , throwing things away, and taking something that's old and making it new again, putting the human hand back into a world that wreaks of manufacturing. It felt very appropriate to do that in 2000. When we started it was such a different time. You could talk about issues like globalization (/wiki/Globalization) ; you could talk about free trade. Then September 11th (/wiki/September_11_attacks) happened and the entire world changed. Everything became irrelevant. Everything we were saying and doing became so overshadowed by fear and false patriotism. [5] (#cite_note-chloe-5) Hiatus; sale of company: 2005–2008 [ edit ] In 2005, it was reported that Subkoff had put the company, which was operating under the fashion label Opening Ceremony, on hiatus. In retrospect, Subkoff said: "There was a massive amount of confusion about its original incarnation. The name got so big, and it appeared to be such a giant success, but like most things that are artistic and creative and amazing, it was never this financial powerhouse. It was an art project." [2] (#cite_note-harpers-2) According to Subkoff, she had to work four other jobs, including a shoe collaboration with Easy Spirit (/wiki/Easy_Spirit) and consulting for Sara Lee Apparel in order to keep the company financially afloat. [2] (#cite_note-harpers-2) Between 2006 and 2007, the label was sold to Josh Sparks, former CEO of the Australian brand Sass & Bide, for a reported $2 million, but went under within a year. [6] (#cite_note-overview-6) In 2008, it was reported that Subkoff had wanted to re-purchase the label after it went bankrupt. [10] (#cite_note-10) Re-branding: 2011–present [ edit ] In 2011, after recovering from extensive brain surgery (/wiki/Brain_surgery) after being diagnosed with an acoustic neuroma (/wiki/Acoustic_neuroma) , [11] (#cite_note-11) Subkoff announced that she would be reviving the label independently, bringing it back to its "most basic incarnation: easy-to-wear staples with an edge." [2] (#cite_note-harpers-2) She also stated that she had shortened the name of the label to Imitation. [2] (#cite_note-harpers-2) She released a short film (/wiki/Short_film) showcasing new pieces she'd designed in 2011. [12] (#cite_note-12) The re-launched Imitation label held its first fashion show in 2012. [9] (#cite_note-vogue-9) See also [ edit ] Sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) Anti-fashion (/wiki/Anti-fashion) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Hirschberg, Lynn (November 19, 2015). "The Art of Being Tara Subkoff" (http://www.wmagazine.com/people/2015/11/tara-subkoff-horror-fillm/photos/) . W Magazine . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Blasberg, Derek (2010-04-17). "Tara Subkoff: 'I survived a brain tumor' (http://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/features/a528/tara-subkoff-brain-tumor-0510/) " (http://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/features/a528/tara-subkoff-brain-tumor-0510/) . Harpers Bazaar . Retrieved 2015-10-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Imitation of Christ - Designer Fashion" (http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/designers/imitation-of-christ/) . The Cut (NY Mag) . Retrieved 2015-10-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-post_4-0) Karni, Annie (2012-03-12). "Imitation of Christ designer Tara Subkoff can't escape life of drama" (https://nypost.com/2012/03/11/imitation-of-christ-designer-tara-subkoff-cant-escape-life-of-drama/) . The New York Post . Retrieved 2015-10-20 . ^ Jump up to: a b Wyma, Chloe (2012-09-14). " (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117102923/http://www.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/825182/this-is-not-a-fashion-show-accidental-designer-tara-subkoffs) "This Is Not a Fashion Show": Accidental Designer Tara Subkoff's New Performance" (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117102923/http://www.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/825182/this-is-not-a-fashion-show-accidental-designer-tara-subkoffs) . Blouinartinfo . Archived from the original (http://www.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/825182/this-is-not-a-fashion-show-accidental-designer-tara-subkoffs) on 2015-11-17 . Retrieved 2015-10-20 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Imitation of Christ: Label Overview" (http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/designers/imitation-of-christ/) . NY Mag . Retrieved 2015-10-20 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Imitation of Christ" (http://www.elle.com/runway/spring-2006-rtw/g3789/imitation-of-christ-112391/) . Elle . 2005-09-09 . Retrieved 2015-10-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-runway_8-0) "Imitation of Christ Runway" (http://www.elle.com/imitation-of-christ-runway/) . Elle . Retrieved 2015-10-20 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Imitation of Christ" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304075322/http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/imitation-of-christ) . Vogue.co.uk . Fashion Shows. Archived from the original (https://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/imitation-of-christ) on 2016-03-04 . Retrieved 2015-10-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Lee, Helen (2008-03-06). "Tara Subkoff wants her Imitation of Christ label back" (http://www.sassybella.com/2008/03/tara-subkoff-wants-her-imitation-of-christ-label-back/) . SassyBella . Retrieved 2015-10-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Aleksander, Irina (2010-04-22). "Tara Subkoff Talks to Derek Blasberg About Her Brain Surgery in Harper's Bazaar" (https://observer.com/2010/04/tara-subkoff-talks-to-derek-blasberg-about-her-brain-surgery-in-iharpers-bazaari/) . The Observer . Retrieved 2015-10-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Aboutaleb, Britt (2011-06-29). "Tara Subkfoff's Imitation Resort" (http://www.elle.com/fashion/news/a6788/tara-subkoffs-imitation-resort-24487/) . Elle . Retrieved 2015-10-25 . External links [ edit ] Complete Timeline and Gallery (https://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/imitation-of-christ) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304075322/http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/imitation-of-christ) 2016-03-04 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) of Imitation of Christ fashion shows at Vogue.co.uk (https://www.vogue.co.uk) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐tzd8c Cached time: 20240713184518 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.280 seconds Real time usage: 0.388 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1692/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 26328/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1306/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 47203/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.163/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5378353/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 331.261 1 -total 43.06% 142.635 1 Template:Reflist 37.35% 123.722 12 Template:Cite_web 36.74% 121.702 1 Template:Infobox_company 32.46% 107.526 1 Template:Infobox 14.40% 47.712 1 Template:Citation_needed 12.73% 42.183 1 Template:Fix 8.98% 29.736 2 Template:Category_handler 3.52% 11.671 1 Template:Webarchive 1.90% 6.294 1 Template:Delink Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:20972980-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713184518 and revision id 1169896329. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Imitation_of_Christ_(designs)&oldid=1169896329 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Imitation_of_Christ_(designs)&oldid=1169896329) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 2000 establishments in New York (state) (/wiki/Category:2000_establishments_in_New_York_(state)) Clothing brands of the United States (/wiki/Category:Clothing_brands_of_the_United_States) Clothing retailers of the United States (/wiki/Category:Clothing_retailers_of_the_United_States) American artist groups and collectives (/wiki/Category:American_artist_groups_and_collectives) Performance art in New York City (/wiki/Category:Performance_art_in_New_York_City) Anti-fashion (/wiki/Category:Anti-fashion) Hidden categories: All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from April 2020 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_April_2020) Webarchive template wayback links (/wiki/Category:Webarchive_template_wayback_links)
Faustin I with the crown The crown of Faustin I is the crown (/wiki/Crown) of Faustin Soulouque (/wiki/Faustin_Soulouque) , who ruled over Haiti (/wiki/Haiti) as President (/wiki/President_of_Haiti) of the Republic (/wiki/Republic_of_Haiti_(1820%E2%80%931849)) from 1847 to 1849 and as Emperor (/wiki/List_of_monarchs_of_Haiti) Faustin I of the Second Empire (/wiki/Second_Empire_of_Haiti) from 1849 to 1859. The crown is decorated with emeralds, diamonds, garnets, and other jewels. It had been exhibited in the Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien (/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_du_Panth%C3%A9on_National_Ha%C3%AFtien) (MUPANAH). However, it was found that some jewels on the crown were stolen at some unknown time. Due to the vandalism it suffered, the crown was transferred, under high surveillance, to a safe place for protection on January 31, 2007. [1] (#cite_note-1) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "La couronne de Faustin 1er vandalisée" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110713201318/http://www.lenouvelliste.com/article.php?PubID=1&ArticleID=39824&PubDate=2007-01-31) . Le Nouvelliste en Haiti. January 31, 2007. 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Tesslo Concepts Company type Private limited company Industry Fashion Founded 2005 Founder Tessy Oliseh-Amaize Headquarters New York, New York, U.S. Website www.tesslo.shop Tesslo (formerly known as Tesslo Concepts ) is a fashion brand specialized in customized clothing. It was founded by Tessy Oliseh-Amaize in 2005, and is now headquartered in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , United States (/wiki/United_States) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Fashion company The Tesslo brand [ edit ] Tesslo was founded by Tessy Oliseh-Amaize, a graduate of Fashion Design from Middlessex University (/wiki/Middlesex_University) , United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) . She is the creative director of the brand. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) In 2006, Tesslo Concepts beat 126 other Nigerian fashion designers to emerge winner of the Best Fashion Designer Award at the Nigeria Fashion Show (NFS). [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) In the same year, the brand was nominated for the Future Awards’ Entrepreneur (/wiki/Entrepreneurship) of the Year ( Beauty (/wiki/Beauty) & Style) category. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) In May 2016, Nigerian soccer icon, Sunday Oliseh (/wiki/Sunday_Oliseh) modeled a collection of suits (/wiki/Suit) made by Tesslo. [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) Tesslo is known for bold and classic designs that combine African and Western aesthetics. Some of Tesslo’s male collections have been modelled by journalist Ohimai Amaize (/wiki/Ohimai_Amaize) . [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) The brand is also famously known for The Sunday Look, a weekly Sunday fashion feature on Nigerian social media. [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Ogwu, Abel (2022-07-24). "Tessy and Ohimai Amaize Visit the Africa Center, New York" (https://www.signalng.com/tessy-and-ohimai-amaize-visit-the-africa-center-new-york/) . SIGNAL . Retrieved 2022-08-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) adeusi, diipo (2016-05-23). "Football veteran is dapper in sister's Tesslo Concept's brand" (https://www.pulse.ng/lifestyle/fashion/sunday-oliseh-football-veteran-is-dapper-in-sisters-tesslo-concepts-brand/nkh0w4f) . Pulse Nigeria . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Tesslo Concepts unveils ?Boundaries? Menswear Collection" (https://www.lindaikejisblog.com/2017/11/tesslo-concepts-unveils-boundaries-menswear-collection.html) . Linda Ikeji's Blog . 2017-11-24 . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Style, BellaNaija (2017-04-25). "Tesslo Concepts Unveils the 'Scissors' Menswear Collection | See the Lookbook" (https://www.bellanaija.com/2017/04/tesslo-concepts-unveils-the-scissors-menswear-collection-see-the-lookbook/) . BellaNaija . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Sub-Editor, Amarachi Ishola |; Sub-Editor, Amarachi Ishola | (2017-11-17). "Leading Nigerian Fashion Label, Tesslo Concepts Unveils 'BOUNDARIES' Menswear Collection [LOOK]" (https://www.thetrentonline.com/tesslo-concepts-unveils-boundaries/) . The Trent . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : |last1= has generic name ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#generic_name) ) ^ (#cite_ref-6) eribake, akintayo (2016-06-08). "Tesslo Concepts Unveils 'FLOTUS', a World-Class Collection for Women" (https://www.vanguardngr.com/2016/06/tesslo-concepts-unveils-flotus-world-class-collection-women/) . Vanguard News . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "THE FUTURE AWARDS NOMINEES" (https://www.lindaikejisblog.com/2006/12/future-awards-nominees.html) . Linda Ikeji's Blog . 2006-12-13 . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) BellaNaija.com (2006-12-11). "THE FUTURE" (https://www.bellanaija.com/2006/12/the-future/) . BellaNaija . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) adeusi, diipo (2016-05-23). "Football veteran is dapper in sister's Tesslo Concept's brand" (https://www.pulse.ng/lifestyle/fashion/sunday-oliseh-football-veteran-is-dapper-in-sisters-tesslo-concepts-brand/nkh0w4f) . Pulse Nigeria . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) eribake, akintayo (2016-05-23). "Sunday Oliseh Unveils Stunning Suits by Tesslo Concepts" (https://www.vanguardngr.com/2016/05/sunday-oliseh-unveils-stunning-suits-tesslo-concepts/) . Vanguard News . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "PHOTOS: Tesslo Concepts unveils new menswear collection" (https://lifestyle.thecable.ng/scissors-tessol-concepts/) . TheCable Lifestyle . 2017-04-26 . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Tesslo Concepts unveils ?Boundaries? Menswear Collection" (https://www.lindaikejisblog.com/2017/11/tesslo-concepts-unveils-boundaries-menswear-collection.html) . Linda Ikeji's Blog . 2017-11-24 . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) BellaNaija.com (2014-08-27). "Special Adviser to Musiliu Obanikoro, Mr Fix Nigeria models Wife's R-T-W Line" (https://www.bellanaija.com/2014/08/special-adviser-to-musiliu-obanikoro-mr-fix-nigeria-models-wifes-r-t-w-line/) . BellaNaija . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Style, BellaNaija (2018-05-27). "A Couple that Slays Together – You Need to see Ohimai and Tessy Amaize's Sunday Styles!" (https://www.bellanaija.com/2018/05/ohimai-tessy-amaize-sunday-style/) . BellaNaija . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Daniel, Oche (2018-09-10). "Fashion Designer Tessy Oliseh-Amaize Explains the Idea Behind The Sunday Look" (https://www.signalng.com/fashion-designer-tessy-oliseh-amaize-explains-the-idea-behind-the-sunday-look/) . SIGNAL . Retrieved 2022-08-19 . 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The ministers of the Hamaguchi (/wiki/Osachi_Hamaguchi) cabinet in European-style court dress. Most of the members, including Prime Minister (/wiki/Prime_Minister_of_Japan) Osachi Hamaguchi in the center, are in the uniforms of chokunin-kan officials. Minister of War (/wiki/Ministry_of_War_(Japan)) Kazushige Ugaki (/wiki/Kazushige_Ugaki) (second from the right) is in military uniform (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Imperial_Japanese_Army) , while Minister for Foreign Affairs (/wiki/Minister_for_Foreign_Affairs_(Japan)) Kijūrō Shidehara (/wiki/Kij%C5%ABr%C5%8D_Shidehara) (third from the right) is in the uniform of a baron (/wiki/Baron) . The official court dress of the Empire of Japan ( 大礼服 , taireifuku ) , used from the Meiji period (/wiki/Meiji_period) until the end of the Second World War (/wiki/Second_World_War) , consisted of European-inspired clothing of the 1870's. It was first introduced at the beginning of the Meiji period and maintained through the institution of the constitutional monarchy (/wiki/Constitutional_monarchy) by the Meiji Constitution (/wiki/Meiji_Constitution) , and represented the highest uniforms in use at the time. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : Ch.5 Uniforms for members of the kazoku (/wiki/Kazoku) peerage and civil officials were officially set. History [ edit ] Japanese government officials and foreign representatives at the Japan Mint (/wiki/Japan_Mint) in 1871 (/wiki/1871) . Sanjo Sanetomi (/wiki/Sanj%C5%8D_Sanetomi) in the center is wearing traditional kariginu . Another Japanese man is in a Western-style military uniform and topknot (/wiki/Chonmage) . When the Meiji Restoration (/wiki/Meiji_Restoration) began, those working to build the new government were wearing a diverse array of different clothing based on their social status during the previous Edo period (/wiki/Edo_period) . Nobles had their ikan ( 衣冠 ) court wear and informal kariginu ( 狩衣 ) , samurai had the distinct hitatare ( 直垂 ) and kamishimo ( 裃 ) dress, and members of Westernized military forces had their Western-style uniforms. For example, during the Emperor's visit to Tokyo in 1868, opinions were divided between the high officials Nakayama Tadayasu (/wiki/Nakayama_Tadayasu) and Date Munenari (/wiki/Date_Munenari) . Nakayama argued that ikan should be worn only when departing and when entering the castle, while kariginu would be worn en route; Date held that kariginu should be worn only when entering the castle, with nōshi ( 直衣 ) and hitatare both allowed en route. As a result, it was decided that both kariginu and hitatare would be allowed en route, with ikan also permitted when entering the castle. Furthermore, the colors and designs on the ikan , kariginu , and hitatare were all unique to each individual, destroying the visual unity of the procession. Meanwhile, the soldiers guarding it were dressed in Western-style uniforms, but were not at all accustomed to the clothing. Ernest Satow (/wiki/Ernest_Satow) commented that their slovenly appearances ruined the solemnity of the procession. This lack of uniformity was once again evident on the Emperor's repeat visit the next year. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 12–24 The situation was clearly untenable, and so after the election of officials to the new government in summer 1869, the Minister of Justice (/wiki/Ministry_of_Justice_(pre-modern_Japan)) Saga Saneharu was put in charge of the problem. In a meeting of the legislature that winter, Iwakura Tomomi (/wiki/Iwakura_Tomomi) proposed deliberation over the court dress for governmental officials that Saga and his helpers had come up with. However, as this design was based on the former dress of court nobles, it met with opposition from those of samurai descent. In order to resolve this disorder, the Internal Imperial Command on Clothing Reform ( 服制改革内勅 , Fukusei kaikaku naichoku ) was released on October 17, 1871. In order to quiet the kazoku (/wiki/Kazoku) still attached to traditional styles of dress, the order claimed that ikan and similar kinds of clothing were weak, and Japan should go back to the styles of the time of Emperor Jimmu (/wiki/Emperor_Jimmu) and Empress Jingū (/wiki/Empress_Jing%C5%AB) . The "styles of that time" meant tight sleeves and narrow hakama (/wiki/Hakama) , and so the order implied that Western-style dress, complying to these standards, had much in common with the essential garb of the Japanese themselves. Calling back to the spirit of Jimmu's legendary founding of the country, it appealed for the creation of a new uniform. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 24–45 Internal Imperial Command on Clothing Reform ( 服制改革内勅 , fukusei kaikaku naichoku ) It is Our view that those who form social mores are transient, subject to the whims of opportunity. Those who form the kokutai control their strength through indomitability. The modern ikan dress has been based on the old dress of the Tang, and is a weak style. We lament this greatly. It is distant from Our roots, ruling by the strength of Japan's warriors. We of the Imperial Line have Ourselves become marshals, and by the people We revere that style. There is nothing of Emperor Jimmu's founding of the country or Empress Jingū's subjugation of Korea in the style of today. We ought not to show such weakness to the world for even one day. I now resolve to revise our uniform and reform our mores, and wish to construct a warrior's kokutai not seen since our ancestors' time. My vassals, give shape to these my wishes. ( 朕惟フニ風俗ナル者移換以テ時ノ宜シキニ随ヒ国体ナル者不抜以テ其勢ヲ制ス今衣冠ノ制中古唐制ニ摸倣セシヨリ流テ軟弱ノ風ヲナス朕太タ慨之夫レ神州ノ武ヲ以テ治ムルヤ固ヨリ久シ天子親ラ之カ元帥ト為リ衆庶以テ其風ヲ仰ク神武創業神功征韓ノ如キ決テ今日ノ風姿ニアラス豈一日モ軟弱以テ天下ニ示ス可ケンヤ朕今断然其服制ヲ更メ其風俗ヲ一新シ祖宗以来尚武ノ国体ヲ立ント欲ス汝近臣其レ朕カ意ヲ体セヨ ) On December 12, 1872, the Dajō-kan (/wiki/Daj%C5%8D-kan) released an edict [2] (#cite_note-2) implementing regulations for the uniforms of civil officials and nobles, and on December 29 of that year another edict [3] (#cite_note-3) determined regulations for their wearing. The new official uniforms were indeed designed based on the court uniforms used in Europe at the time. The first of these edicts also designated white tie (/wiki/White_tie) dress as the court dress of choice for those not entitled to any particular court uniform, such as private citizens. The uniforms for members of the Imperial Family (/wiki/Imperial_House_of_Japan) were first decided by an edict of the Dajō-kan on February 22, 1873, and then updated in 1876 and 1911. After the Peerage Act of July 7, 1884, divided the existing kazoku into five ranks, the Ministry of the Imperial Household (/wiki/Ministry_of_the_Imperial_Household) further established the uniforms for these new subcategories. On October 29 of the same year, another edict of the Dajō-kan created gown-type court uniforms for senior officials within palace agencies like the Board of Chamberlains (/wiki/Chamberlain_of_Japan) and Board of Ceremonies (/wiki/Master_of_Ceremonies_(Japan)) . From 1888 to 1889, various other personnel were outfitted with uniforms and assigned court uniforms. The Imperial Household Agency's uniforms underwent major changes in 1911 and 1928. Fusako Kitashirakawa (/wiki/Fusako_Kitashirakawa) in the manteau de cour On June 23, 1886, provisions were set to determine formal Western wear for women. In order from most to least formal, these were the manteau de cour , robe décolletée , robe mi-décolletée , and robe montante . [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 68–70 On December 4 of the same year, the designs of the court uniforms for civil officials were modified, but the designs for junior officials were not updated. Because the officials were responsible for providing their own court uniforms, the cost had been too much for junior officials. From this point on, junior civil officials wore standard white tie court dress. The difference in price was extreme: when the official Kikuchi Takeo ordered both a three-piece suit and his court uniform at the same shop, the suit cost 28 yen and the uniform 220 yen. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 178–179 On March 2, 1908, an Imperial edict established substitute court uniforms for diplomats dispatched to the tropics or very hot areas. Later, on September 29, 1926, another Imperial edict established alternative court uniforms and court dress for Japanese officials in the South Pacific (/wiki/South_Pacific_Mandate) . All of these consisted of white tunics (/wiki/Tunics) . Old news footage shows officials of the South Seas Mandate (/wiki/South_Seas_Mandate) , including Kōki Hirota (/wiki/K%C5%8Dki_Hirota) , in these clothes. [4] (#cite_note-4) Although their names differed, naval and military officers also had dress corresponding to court uniforms. Unlike civil officials, military officials were allowed to wear their uniforms to personal ceremonies such as marriages and funerals. These various kinds of court uniforms continued to be used at court functions and ceremonies even into the Shōwa period (/wiki/Sh%C5%8Dwa_period) , at events like the Imperial enthronement (/wiki/Enthronement_of_the_Japanese_Emperor) and the first visit of Emperor of Manchukuo (/wiki/Manchukuo) Puyi (/wiki/Puyi) to Japan. [5] (#cite_note-5) However, as the strain of war continued, opportunities for their use became rarer and rarer. When Mitsumasa Yonai (/wiki/Mitsumasa_Yonai) became Prime Minister during the Second Sino-Japanese War (/wiki/Second_Sino-Japanese_War) , his morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) could not be tailored in time for the appointment, and he wore a naval uniform in its place at his official investiture. [note 1] (#cite_note-6) After the war, Imperial Household Agency edicts and the pertinent Dajō-kan edicts were abolished, on May 2, 1947, [6] (#cite_note-7) and July 1, 1954, [7] (#cite_note-8) respectively. The Empire of Japan's court uniforms disappeared with them, but similar male uniforms do remain in use around the world, including in France, various South American countries, and Thailand. Court uniforms for civil officials [ edit ] Genrōin (/wiki/Genr%C5%8Din) members in 1879, wearing various court uniforms for civil officials by the 1872 designs Three of the highest subcategories of civil officials were allocated specific court uniforms: Imperial appointees ( 勅任官 , chokuninkan ) , non-Imperially appointed senior officials ( 奏任官 , sōninkan ) , and junior officials ( 判任官 , hanninkan ) . These uniforms were officially decided by edict of the Dajō-kan on December 12, 1872. The Iwakura Mission (/wiki/Iwakura_Mission) , which had departed Japan earlier, also gathered information on uniform design via Hayashi Tadasu (/wiki/Hayashi_Tadasu) . However, the mission had no time to wait for a final decision before an audience with Queen Victoria (/wiki/Queen_Victoria) . They therefore ordered uniforms in England, based on the designs they had been discussing with the homeland. Unfortunately, the designs they reported back were determined to be impossible to create in Japan's still-immature Western clothing stores and were not adopted directly. The versions ultimately decreed by the Dajō-kan differed considerably from the Iwakura mission's prototypes. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 55–61 The Dajō-kan's edicts were still incomplete as a form of law, and the details of the original edict itself were in some areas insufficient, [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 70–71 so variations were visible depending on the manufacturer. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 158–160 There were also problems with the uniforms themselves. The pants for chokuninkan were designated as being white, but in Europe white pants were only worn in court uniforms on special occasions. This issue was even pointed out by Otto von Bismarck (/wiki/Otto_von_Bismarck) when the Iwakura mission visited Germany. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 150–151 On September 18, 1877, an edict of the Dajō-kan brought these pants into line with the coats, changing them to the same black wool material. Aiming to set clear and unified standards for the uniforms, the regulations were amended on December 4, 1886, by an order of the Ministry of the Imperial Household. Pictures and diagrams were published in an official telegram, and related manufacturers were provided with sample illustrations printed in color. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 176 [8] (#cite_note-9) The amendment was targeted at the uniforms for senior officials. Those of junior officials were not addressed and instead died out. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 176 A minor amendment from the same office on December 10, 1892, modified the side decorations on the uniforms of sōninkan . Correspondence between the Cabinet's chief clerk Kawasaki Takashi and Under-Secretary of the Army (/wiki/Ministry_of_War_of_Japan) Hajime Sugiyama (/wiki/Hajime_Sugiyama) suggests that further modifications to civil officials' uniforms were being considered at the time of the 1928 changes to the uniforms of the Imperial Household Agency. Accompanying diagrams to the 1872 Dajō-kan edict Chokuninkan Sōninkan Hanninkan Accompanying diagrams to the 1886 order of the Ministry of the Imperial Household Chokuninkan Chokuninkan Sōninkan Sōninkan Alternate diagrams for the 1886 order of the Ministry of the Imperial Household Chokuninkan Sōninkan Court uniforms to the 1872 Dajō-kan standard [ edit ] Inoue Kaoru (/wiki/Inoue_Kaoru) Inoue Kowashi (/wiki/Inoue_Kowashi) Sano Tsunetami (/wiki/Sano_Tsunetami) Sanjō Sanetomi (/wiki/Sanj%C5%8D_Sanetomi) Ōkuma Shigenobu (/wiki/%C5%8Ckuma_Shigenobu) Ishida Eikichi (/w/index.php?title=Ishida_Eikichi&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ja (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E7%9F%B3%E7%94%B0%E8%8B%B1%E5%90%89) ] Nakamura Masanao (/wiki/Nakamura_Masanao) Maejima Hisoka (/wiki/Maejima_Hisoka) Matsudaira Norikata (/wiki/Matsudaira_Norikata) Date Munenari (/wiki/Date_Munenari) Utsumi Tadakatsu (/wiki/Utsumi_Tadakatsu) Miyaki Kōzō (/w/index.php?title=Miyaki_K%C5%8Dz%C5%8D&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ja (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%AE%AE%E5%9F%8E%E6%B5%A9%E8%94%B5) ] Court uniforms of the Iwakura Mission [ edit ] Iwakura Tomomi (/wiki/Iwakura_Tomomi) Itō Hirobumi (/wiki/It%C5%8D_Hirobumi) Ōkubo Toshimichi (/wiki/%C5%8Ckubo_Toshimichi) Fukuchi Gen'ichirō (/wiki/Fukuchi_Gen%27ichir%C5%8D) Composition [ edit ] Hat Chokuninkan , sōninkan , and hanninkan wore the same kind of hats, but had different embellishments to the decoration on the right side. Coat A frock coat of black wool. The various ornamented areas were decorated based on rank: chokuninkan used 5-7-5 leaf paulownia flowers, surrounded by densely embroidered paulownia buds. Sōninkan used 3-5-3 leaf paulownias with more sparsely embroidered paulownia buds. Hanninkan use the same decorations as sōninkan , but the paulownia buds are sparser yet. Vest A wool vest; white for chokuninkan , dark gray for sōninkan , and navy blue for hanninkan . After the September 18, 1877, edict of the Dajō-kan, black was also allowed for chokuninkan and sōninkan . Trousers Wool trousers; white for chokuninkan , dark gray for sōninkan , and navy blue for hanninkan . After the September 18, 1877, edict of the Dajō-kan, black was also allowed for chokuninkan and sōninkan . Ornamentation [ edit ] Ornamented areas Chokuninkan had ornamentation at the collar, back, chest, sleeves, sides, and small of the back. Sōninkan had decorations only at the collar, sleeves, sides, and small of the back. Hanninkan had decorations only at the collar and sleeves. Chokuninkan used embroidery in spiraling patterns resembling lightning ( 雷紋 , raimon ) at the rim of the ornamentation and the fringe of the coat. Sōninkan and hanninkan used plain solid lines in these areas. Rank indication Embroidered in the ornamented areas of both sleeves. Each line was one bu (about 3 millimetres (0.12 in)) across, and the space between lines was eight rin (about 2.4 millimetres (0.094 in)). The lowest rank within each of the chokuninkan , sōninkan , and hanninkan classes wore one line and a line was added for each additional rank. Buttons Chokuninkan wore gold-coated buttons inlaid with a 5-7-5 leaf paulownia flower, sōninkan gold-coated buttons with a 3-5-3 leaf paulownia, and hanninkan silver-coated buttons with a 3-5-3 leaf paulownia. Those used on the coat rather than the hat decoration also had a raised rim about three rin (0.9 millimetres (0.035 in)) across. Uniforms for lower officials [ edit ] Civil officials below the hanninkan level used standard white-tie court dress. However, the higher-ranking among these affixed symbols of their ranks to each cuff. After the 1886 revision [ edit ] Ishii Kikujirō (/wiki/Ishii_Kikujir%C5%8D) Chokuninkan , front and back Sōninkan , front and back The ambassador Hiroshi Saitō as a sōninkan Hiroshi Saitō as a chokuninkan Court uniforms for court ranks [ edit ] Court rank uniforms (fourth rank and above) Mōri Motonori (/w/index.php?title=M%C5%8Dri_Motonori&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ja (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%AF%9B%E5%88%A9%E5%85%83%E5%BE%B3) ] , dressed to the 1872 standard Yukio Ozaki (/wiki/Yukio_Ozaki) , dressed to the 1886 standard The court uniforms for people possessing court ranks (/wiki/Ritsury%C5%8D#Establishment_of_court_rank) , but no official position, were decided along with those for civil officials in the December 12, 1872, edict of the Dajō-kan. After the establishment of the five ranks (duke, baron, etc.) within the kazoku peerage, however, heads of titled households wore uniforms specific to their titles. According to the Regulations for Investiture ( 叙位条例 , joi jōrei ) of May 4, 1887, people possessing the junior fourth rank ( 従四位 ) or above were entitled to treatment comparable to that of titled peers. Specifically, the junior first rank was to correspond to the title of duke, the senior second rank to a marquis, the junior second rank to a count, the senior third rank to a viscount, and the senior fourth rank to a baron. The uniforms for ranks above the fourth conformed to those of chokuninkan , and those for the senior fifth rank and above to those of sōninkan . However, they were decorated only with mon (/wiki/Mon_(emblem)) (emblems), with no additional foliage scrollwork (/wiki/Scrollwork) embroidery, and with one mon emblem, two sun (/wiki/Cun_(unit)) (about 6 centimetres (2.4 in)) in diameter, affixed at the small of the back. In the 1872 version, the hat plumage was black even for those above the fourth rank, and the stripes on the trousers were composed of embroidered lines of five bu (/wiki/Japanese_units_of_measurement#Length) (about 15 millimetres (0.59 in)) across in a raimon pattern, while people of the fifth rank and below had single stripes of the same width. An edict of the Dajō-kan on October 8, 1877, added black wool trousers, and a May 27, 1911, Imperial Household ordinance changed the hat plumage for those of fourth rank or above to white. Accompanying diagram to the 1872 court uniforms for the fourth rank and above Accompanying diagram to the 1872 court uniforms for the fifth rank and below Makino Tadayuki (/wiki/Makino_Tadayuki) The Emperor's Western clothes [ edit ] Emperor Meiji in clothes based on a civil official's court uniform The continuing Westernization of the Emperor's clothing, food, and living conditions after the Meiji Restoration led to the need for Western gofuku ( 御服 ) , or Imperial garb. This was prepared in 1872, and resembled the court uniforms for civil officials. At the time, the Emperor still had a topknot, and so his hat was designed to contain it. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 65–66 However, the foreign government advisor (/wiki/Foreign_government_advisors_in_Meiji_Japan) Albert du Bousquet (/w/index.php?title=Albert_du_Bousquet&action=edit&redlink=1) [ fr (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albert_du_Bousquet) ] advised that the emperor of France wore a military general's uniform, rather than that of a civil official. Shortly thereafter, [note 2] (#cite_note-11) new military-style gofuku , called gogunpuku ( 御軍服 ) [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 67 or gotaireifuku ( 御大禮服 ) , [9] (#cite_note-Nishikoori-10) : 76 were created. These gogunpuku were used until October 11, 1880, when another edict [10] (#cite_note-12) of the Dajō-kan created a new uniform called the rikugun-shiki gofuku ( 陸軍式御服 ) , based on the uniform of a general in the Japanese army. The 1880 edict was replaced on November 14, 1913, by an Imperial Household ordinance. [11] (#cite_note-13) Along with a redesign of the army uniform-based outfit, a version based on naval uniform was also introduced. After this, the army- and navy-style uniforms were redefined and the corresponding ordinance modified whenever the base army and navy uniforms were themselves updated. When Japan lost the Second World War and the Imperial Japanese Army (/wiki/Imperial_Japanese_Army) was dissolved in 1945, a new Imperial uniform was established. [12] (#cite_note-14) However, this new uniform was abolished on May 2, 1947, along with all other Imperial Household Edicts. Emperor Meiji in army-style gotaireifuku Emperor Shōwa in the 1945 Imperial uniform design Court uniforms for the Imperial Family [ edit ] When the court uniforms for the Imperial Family were first established on February 22, 1873, [13] (#cite_note-15) the designs were more or less the same as those for court ranks, but with the paulownia crests replaced with the chrysanthemum seal (/wiki/Chrysanthemum_seal) . This made the Imperial Family's uniforms difficult to distinguish from those for court ranks, and so on October 12, 1876, [14] (#cite_note-16) they were updated with chrysanthemum foliage scrollwork. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 106 In 1911, the Imperial Household Ordinance on Imperial Family Dress [15] (#cite_note-17) was promulgated, and an additional clause in it abolished the pertinent Dajō-kan edicts of 1873 and 1876. This order defined two levels of formal dress, changed the chrysanthemum foliage scrollwork to use a sakura (/wiki/Sakura) motif instead, and specified fully closed mandarin collars (/wiki/Mandarin_collar) . However, as Imperial Family members were now supposed to wear the uniforms of their offices if they held any, and most princes were appointed as officers in the military or navy unless there was a reason not to, [16] (#cite_note-18) most wore military uniforms, and these new uniforms for the Imperial Family saw little actual use. Court uniforms of the Imperial Family Diagram from the 1873 Dajō-kan edict Diagram from the 1876 Dajō-kan edict Diagram from the 1911 Imperial Household Agency edict Court uniforms for the kazoku [ edit ] Kazoku court uniforms Duke Tokugawa Yoshinobu (/wiki/Tokugawa_Yoshinobu) Marquis Saga Kintō (/w/index.php?title=Saga_Kint%C5%8D&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ja (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%B5%AF%E5%B3%A8%E5%85%AC%E5%8B%9D) ] After the Peerage Act of July 7, 1884, divided the existing kazoku into five ranks, uniforms were established for these ranks by the Ministry of the Imperial Household on October 25 of the same year. [17] (#cite_note-19) Composition [ edit ] Compared to the uniforms for civil officials, those for kazoku lacked embroidery on the breast, but had a mandarin collar (/wiki/Mandarin_collar) and epaulets (/wiki/Epaulets) . Identifying the five ranks The five ranks of kazoku were distinguishable by the color of the embroidery around their sleeves and collars, and on the right side of their hats. Dukes had purple, marquis scarlet, counts pink, viscounts pale yellow, and barons light green. Hat A black bicorne (/wiki/Bicorne) hat with white ostrich feather plumage. Coat A black tailcoat with a mandarin collar. Epaulets on the shoulders. Vest Either white wool or black wool. White wool was used on especially formal occasions. Trousers Either white wool or black wool. White wool was used on especially formal occasions. With one stripe on the side one sun (about 3 centimetres (1.2 in)) wide, in gold thread. Buttons 5-7-5 leaf paulownia flower (/wiki/Government_Seal_of_Japan) on gold background. Sword 2 shaku , 3 sun , and 5 bu (about 71 centimetres (28 in)) long. Uniforms for palace officials [ edit ] A coachman's court uniform, still in use by the Vehicles and Horses Division of the Imperial Household Agency (/wiki/Imperial_Household_Agency) In 1884, court uniforms were decided for chokuninkan and sōninkan on the Board of the Chamberlains and the Board of Ceremonies. In 1886, the Imperial Guard were assigned both regular and court uniforms, and in 1888 the rest of the institutions of the Ministry of the Imperial Household (/wiki/Ministry_of_the_Imperial_Household) were allocated their own. In 1889, chokuninkan and sōninkan of the Crown Prince's Household got both formal and informal court uniforms, [18] (#cite_note-20) and in 1891 escort dress was created for high officials in the Agency. [19] (#cite_note-21) These various regulations were unified in a 1911 revision, and major changes were made in 1928. 1884 designs [ edit ] The October 29, 1884, edict 91 of the Dajō-kan allocated court uniforms for chokuninkan and sōninkan on the Board of the Chamberlains and the Board of Ceremonies. These gown-like designs were based on Prussian (/wiki/Prussia) court clothing, [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 173 and were supposedly proposed by Yamagata Aritomo (/wiki/Yamagata_Aritomo) . [20] (#cite_note-22) Diagrams from the October 29, 1884, Dajō-kan edict Chokuninkan Sōninkan , seventh rank or higher Sōninkan , eighth or ninth rank 1886 designs [ edit ] The June 26, 1886, edict 9 of the Ministry of the Imperial Household established regular and court uniforms for the Imperial Guard. These uniforms were based on those of officers in the British Army (/wiki/British_Army) . [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 201 Diagrams for Imperial Guard uniforms from the June 26, 1886, Ministry of the Imperial Household edict Imperial Guard Director and Vice Director Imperial Guard Captains and Lieutenants Imperial Guard patrolmen 1888 designs [ edit ] On September 24, 1888, a conference was held within the Ministry of the Imperial Household regarding uniforms for employees within the palace. The attendees were Minister of the Imperial Household Hijikata Hisamoto (/wiki/Hijikata_Hisamoto) , head of the Board of Ceremonies Nabeshima Naohiro (/wiki/Nabeshima_Naohiro_(Saga)) , Master of the Palace Table Iwakura Tomosada (/w/index.php?title=Iwakura_Tomosada&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ja (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%B2%A9%E5%80%89%E5%85%B7%E5%AE%9A) ] , Master of the Empress's Palace Kagawa Teizō (/w/index.php?title=Kagawa_Teiz%C5%8D&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ja (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%A6%99%E5%B7%9D%E6%95%AC%E4%B8%89) ] , the director of the Bureau of Imperial Mews at the time (name unknown), and the foreign advisor Ottmar von Mohl (/wiki/Ottmar_von_Mohl) . [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 200 [21] (#cite_note-23) As a result, in the winter of that year, high officials involved in supply management to the palace and hunting were assigned their own uniforms, [22] (#cite_note-24) [23] (#cite_note-25) as were various positions in the Bureau of Imperial Mews. [24] (#cite_note-26) Servants and coachmen were also assigned formal and informal court wear, as well as regular uniforms. [25] (#cite_note-27) Ottmar von Mohl Hijikata Hisamoto (in 1891 escort dress) Iwakura Tomosada (in 1911 court uniform for Imperial Household Agency chokuninkan ) 1911 designs [ edit ] Imperial Household Agency chokuninkan court uniforms to the 1911 standard Hijikata Hisamoto (/wiki/Hijikata_Hisamoto) Katayama Tōkuma (/wiki/Katayama_T%C5%8Dkuma) On May 26, 1911, the Imperial Household Ordinance on Imperial Household Agency Uniforms [26] (#cite_note-28) abolished the 1884 and 1891 uniforms and unified the regulations. The main points of revision were the addition of shoulder-knot epaulets to the formal court uniforms of chokuninkan and the adoption of tunics as the formal court uniforms of high officials in the Bureau of Imperial Mews. An earlier proposal, dated to May 9 of the same year, also included changes to the uniforms of low-ranking employees like Imperial Guard patrolmen, but the released ordinance delegated responsibility for the uniforms of Imperial Household Agency employees at or below sōninkan level to the Imperial Household Agency itself. [27] (#cite_note-29) The Imperial Household Agency released ordinances defining the uniforms for these employees the next day, on May 27. After this the uniforms that sōninkan -level and below officials wore in their duties, including those corresponding to court uniforms, were simply referred to as work uniforms ( 職服 , shokufuku ) . Diagrams from the May 27, 1911, revision Chokuninkan Sōninkan Bureau of Imperial Mews chokuninkan Bureau of Imperial Mews sōninkan 1928 designs [ edit ] Ichiki Kitokurō (/wiki/Ichiki_Kitokur%C5%8D) (Imperial Household Minister) The Ordinance on Imperial Household Agency Uniforms was modified on March 16, 1928. [28] (#cite_note-30) The uniforms for high officials outside the Bureau of Imperial Mews were changed from gowns to tailcoats, and their stand-up collars changed to a type that closed all the way to the top. Diagrams from the March 16, 1928, revision Chokuninkan Bureau of Imperial Mews chokuninkan and sōninkan Imperial Guard officers Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-6) Concerned that becoming prime minister while still an active naval officer would infringe upon the Emperor's supreme command authority, Yonai transferred to the first reserve. His naval full uniform is on display at the Morioka Memorial Museum of Great Predecessors (http://www.mfca.jp/senjin/yonai/shiryou) . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Nishikoori claims the new gofuku was used from the Emperor's Birthday in 1872; [9] (#cite_note-Nishikoori-10) : 76 Osakabe claims their use began in June of the next year. [1] (#cite_note-Osakabe-1) : 67 References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r Osakabe, Yoshinori (April 2010). 洋服・散髪・脱刀 : 服制の明治維新 [ Western Clothes, Cut Hair, No Swords: The Meiji Restoration of Clothing ] (in Japanese). Kodansha Ltd. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-4-06-258464-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Dajō-kan Edict No. 339 of December 12, 1872. 大礼服及通常礼服ヲ定メ衣冠ヲ祭服ト為ス等ノ件 [Taireifuku oyobi tsūjōreifuku wo sadame, ikan wo saifuku to nasu nado no ken]. View here. (http://kindai.ndl.go.jp/info:ndljp/pid/787952/175) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Dajō-kan Edict No. 373 of December 29, 1872. 大礼服及通常礼服著用日ノ件 [Taireifuku oyobi tsūjōreifuku chakuyoubi no ken]. View here. (http://kindai.ndl.go.jp/info:ndljp/pid/787952/236) ^ (#cite_ref-4) Kōki Hirota (/wiki/K%C5%8Dki_Hirota) is seen in Japan News No. 111 (http://cgi2.nhk.or.jp/shogenarchives/jpnews/movie.cgi?das_id=D0001300496_00000&seg_number=002) and No. 166 (http://cgi2.nhk.or.jp/shogenarchives/jpnews/movie.cgi?das_id=D0001300551_00000&seg_number=001) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151005182213/http://cgi2.nhk.or.jp/shogenarchives/jpnews/movie.cgi?das_id=D0001300551_00000&seg_number=001) 2015-10-05 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ; Sawada Renzō (/w/index.php?title=Sawada_Renz%C5%8D&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ja (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B2%A2%E7%94%B0%E5%BB%89%E4%B8%89) ] in No. 24 (http://cgi2.nhk.or.jp/shogenarchives/jpnews/movie.cgi?das_id=D0001300409_00000&seg_number=002) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20131214161439/http://cgi2.nhk.or.jp/shogenarchives/jpnews/movie.cgi?das_id=D0001300409_00000&seg_number=002) 2013-12-14 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-5) Video of Puyi's welcome at Tokyo Station (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8mViIX5Ijw) ( YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) ) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 12 of May 2, 1947. 皇室令及附属法令廃止ノ件 [Kōshitsurei oyobi fuzoku hourei haishi no ken] ^ (#cite_ref-8) Law No. 203 of July 1, 1954. Act on the Adjustment of Cabinet and Prime Ministerial Laws and Ordinances (内閣及び総理府関係法令の整理に関する法律 [Naikaku oyobi sourifu kankei hourei no seiri ni kansuru houritsu]) ^ (#cite_ref-9) JACAR (Japan Center for Asian Historical Records) Ref.A07090081700. 改定文官大礼服制表並図・勅奏任官 [ Independent Documents: Tables and Illustrations on Revised Ceremonial Dress Code for Civil Officials: Officials under Imperial Appointment and Officials Appointed with the Emperor's Approval ] (in Japanese). {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_numeric_names:_authors_list) ) ^ Jump up to: a b Nishikoori, Chikukō (1927). 古今服装の研究 [ Research on Old and Modern Clothing ] (in Japanese). Toyo Tosho. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Dajō-kan Edict No. 55 of October 11, 1880. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 9 of November 14, 1913. 天皇ノ御服ニ関スル件 [Tennō no gofuku ni kansuru ken] ^ (#cite_ref-14) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 37 of November 7, 1945. 天皇ノ御服ニ関スル件 [Tennō no gofuku ni kansuru ken] ^ (#cite_ref-15) Dajō-kan Edict No. 64 of February 22, 1873. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Dajō-kan Edict No. 125 of October 12, 1876. ^ (#cite_ref-17) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 3 of May 26, 1911. Ordinance on Imperial Family Dress (皇族服装令 [Kōzoku fukusō rei]) ^ (#cite_ref-18) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 2 of 1910. Ordinance on Rank Within the Imperial Family (皇族身位令 [Kōzoku shin'i rei]). Article 17. ^ (#cite_ref-19) Ministry of the Imperial Household Order No. 8, Part 2, of October 25, 1884. ^ (#cite_ref-20) Ministry of the Imperial Household Order No. 26 of December 23, 1889. ^ (#cite_ref-21) Ministry of the Imperial Household Order No. 3, Part 1, of November 24, 1891. ^ (#cite_ref-22) Committee for the Publication of Nihon Yōfuku-shi [日本洋服史刊行委員会] (1977). "大礼服の制定とその推移" [The Establishment and Revision of Court Uniform]. Nihon Yōfuku-shi ichiseiki no ayumi to honrai tenbō (http://www.setsunan.ac.jp/~tosho/daireifuku/daireifuku.htm) 日本洋服史 一世紀の歩みと未来展望 [ The History of Western Clothing in Japan: A Century of Progress and Future Prospects ] (in Japanese). ^ (#cite_ref-23) von Mohl, Ottmar (1904). Am Japanischen Hofe - Kammerherr Seiner Majestät des Kaisers und Königs Wirklicher Geheimer Legations-Rat (in German). Berlin: Reimer. ^ (#cite_ref-24) Ministry of the Imperial Household Order No. 22 of November 2, 1888. ^ (#cite_ref-25) Ministry of the Imperial Household Order No. 19 of October 8, 1888. ^ (#cite_ref-26) Ministry of the Imperial Household Order No. 24 of December 12, 1888. ^ (#cite_ref-27) 法規分類大全 第2編[第6冊]巻6 [ Categorized Encyclopedia of Laws and Regulations, Part 2, Volume 6, Section 6 ] (in Japanese). Cabinet Records Office. 1892–1894. ^ (#cite_ref-28) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 4 of May 26, 1911. Ordinance on the Uniforms of Palace Officials (宮内官制服令 [Kunaikan seifuku rei]) ^ (#cite_ref-29) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 4 of May 26, 1911. Ordinance on the Uniforms of Palace Officials (宮内官制服令 [Kunaikan seifuku rei]). Article 17. ^ (#cite_ref-30) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 2 of March 16, 1928. Bibliography [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Court uniforms and dress of Japan (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Court_uniforms_and_dress_of_Japan) . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Court uniform of Japan (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Court_uniform_of_Japan) . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Japanese Court officer uniform (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Japanese_Court_officer_uniform) . Tanno, Miyako (April 1999). 西洋服飾史 [ A History of Western Attire ] (in Japanese). Vol. Expanded and Revised Edition. Tokyodo Shuppan. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-4-490-20367-7 . Tanno, Miyako (September 2003). 西洋服飾史 [ A History of Western Attire ] (in Japanese). Vol. Diagrams. Tokyodo Shuppan. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-4-490-20505-3 . Related laws [ edit ] Imperial Household Ordinance No. 22 of 1910. Chōsen kizoku taru yūshakusha taireifuku sei ( 朝鮮貴族タル有爵者大礼服制 ) Imperial Household Ordinance No. 5 of 1911. Hiyaku yūi taireifuku no bō ni kansuru ken ( 非役有位大礼服ノ帽ニ関スル件 ) Imperial Ordinance No. 15 of 1908. Gaikōkan oyobi ryōjikan taireifuku daiyō fukusei ( 外交官及領事官大礼服代用服制 ) Imperial Ordinance No. 311 of 1926. Nan'yō guntō zaikin bunkan reifuku daiyō fukusei ( 南洋群島在勤文官礼服代用服制 ) v t e Historical clothing (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings Body-length (/wiki/Suit) Abolla (/wiki/Abolla) Banyan (/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)) Brunswick (/wiki/Brunswick_(clothing)) Court dress (Empire of Japan) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Frock (/wiki/Frock) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) Paenula (/wiki/Paenula) Peplos (/wiki/Peplos) Stola (/wiki/Stola) Toga (/wiki/Toga) Tunic (/wiki/Tunic) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bedgown (/wiki/Bedgown) Bodice (/wiki/Bodice) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Peascod belly (/wiki/Peascod_belly) Poet shirt (/wiki/Poet_shirt) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Braccae (/wiki/Braccae) Breeches (/wiki/Breeches) Sompot Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Culottes 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(/wiki/Witzchoura) Underwear (/wiki/Undergarment) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bustle (/wiki/Bustle) Chausses (/wiki/Chausses) Chemise (/wiki/Chemise) Codpiece (/wiki/Codpiece) Corselet (/wiki/Corselet) Corset (/wiki/Corset) Waist cincher (/wiki/Waist_cincher) Dickey (/wiki/Dickey_(garment)) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Hoop skirt (/wiki/Hoop_skirt) Crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) Farthingale (/wiki/Farthingale) Pannier (/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)) Hose (/wiki/Hose_(clothing)) Liberty bodice (/wiki/Liberty_bodice) Loincloth (/wiki/Loincloth) Open drawers (/wiki/Open_drawers) Pantalettes (/wiki/Pantalettes) Petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) Peignoir (/wiki/Peignoir) Pettipants (/wiki/Pettipants) Union suit (/wiki/Union_suit) Yếm (/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Anthony Eden (/wiki/Anthony_Eden_hat) Apex (/wiki/Apex_(headdress)) Arakhchin (/wiki/Arakhchin) Attifet (/wiki/Attifet) Aviator (/wiki/Aviator_hat) Ba tầm (/wiki/Ba_t%E1%BA%A7m) Bergère (/wiki/Berg%C3%A8re_hat) Blessed hat 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Luxury fashion brand Vetements Industry Fashion Founded 2014 ; 10 years ago ( 2014 ) Founders Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) , Guram Gvasalia Headquarters Zürich (/wiki/Z%C3%BCrich) , Switzerland Products Clothing, shoes, accessories Owner Vetements Group AG Website vetementswebsite (http://vetementswebsite.com/) .com (http://vetementswebsite.com/) VETEMENTS (from vêtements [ vɛtmɑ͂ ]; French for "clothes") started in 2014 [1] (#cite_note-1) as a Swiss luxury fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_design) and "design collective" [2] (#cite_note-2) founded by Georgian fashion designers Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) [3] (#cite_note-3) and Guram Gvasalia. [4] (#cite_note-4) The brand experienced near-immediate success, with Demna being hired to Balenciaga after only three collections at Vetements. [5] (#cite_note-5) In 2019 Demna left the brand. [6] (#cite_note-6) Guram Gvasalia is the current Creative Director. [7] (#cite_note-7) Runway shows [ edit ] Vetements first collection was presented a gallery during the AW14-15 season in Paris, France. The second collection Vetements' first show, was for the SS15 season, [8] (#cite_note-8) and was presented at Espace Pierre Cardin in Paris, France. The third collection, AW15-16 was shown again during Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) , was shown at Le Dépot, a sex club (/wiki/Sex_club) in Paris (/wiki/Paris) . The SS16 show took place on October 1, 2015, at Le Président Restaurant in the Belleville neighborhood in Paris, France. [9] (#cite_note-9) The AW16-17 show took place at the American Cathedral of Paris on Paris' famous avenue George V (/wiki/Avenue_George_V) . [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) For the SS17 season, Vetements were invited to show on the first evening of Paris Haute Couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) Fashion Week, during store hours at the famous French department store, Galeries Lafayette (/wiki/Galeries_Lafayette) underneath its famous cupola. [12] (#cite_note-12) Vetements worked with 17 different heritage brands including Brioni (/wiki/Brioni_(brand)) and Juicy Couture (/wiki/Juicy_Couture) to present a runway full of varying collaborations each representing the mastery of their individual markets. The AW17-18 show took place at Centre Georges Pompidou (/wiki/Centre_Georges_Pompidou) , the largest museum for modern art in Europe on January 24, 2017. [13] (#cite_note-13) The SS18 collection was launched with a "NO SHOW" event, [14] (#cite_note-14) consisting of a concert and exhibit of photographs taken by Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) of the new collection as shoot around Zürich (/wiki/Z%C3%BCrich) , Switzerland, where they had recently moved its headquarters. For their AW18-19 collection, Vetements returned to the runway, this time off the official calendar, showing outside of Paris in the antique markets of Marché Paul Bert Serpette in Saint-Ouen, France. [15] (#cite_note-15) The brand's SS19 collection, its tenth collection, reflected deeply on the Gvasalia's upbringing in and eventual departure from war-torn Georgia (/wiki/Georgia_(country)) . It took place in Paris on July 1, 2018, underneath the Boulevard Périphérique (/wiki/Boulevard_P%C3%A9riph%C3%A9rique) . [16] (#cite_note-16) Many street cast models were flown in from Georgia for the show. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Vetements: What to Know About the Mysterious Fashion Brand" (https://www.highsnobiety.com/tag/vetements/) . Highsnobiety . Retrieved 2022-02-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) What Is Vetements and Why Is Everyone Freaking Out? (https://www.racked.com/2016/3/2/11139622/what-is-vetements) Nicola Fumo, racked.com (/wiki/Racked.com) March 2, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-3) “I Didn’t Want to Be the Guy Just Making Hoodies and Ripped Jeans”: Demna Gvasalia on Being a Fashion Disruptor (https://www.vogue.com/article/vogue-forces-of-fashion-demna-gvasalia-vetements-balenciaga) Brooke Bobb, Vogue , October 12, 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-4) Valle, Natalí (2021-12-18). "Guram Gvasalia Steps In As Creative Director Of Vetements Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & New Faces Magazine" (https://www.vanityteen.com/guram-gvasalia-vetements-creative-director/) . vanityteen.com . Retrieved 2022-02-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Balenciaga's New Name: What To Know" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/vetements-demna-gvasalia-moves-to-balenciaga-what-to-know) . Retrieved 2017-09-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Moda, S. (2019-09-16). "Demna Gvasalia abandona la firma Vetements" (https://smoda.elpais.com/moda/fin-de-ciclo-en-vetements-demna-gvasalia-deja-la-firma-que-creo/) . S Moda EL PAÍS (in Spanish) . Retrieved 2022-02-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Vetements Announces Guram Gvasalia As Creative Director" (https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/vetements-creative-director-guram-gvasalia/) . Retrieved 2022-12-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Vetements, une griffe taillée pour le succès" (http://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/vetements-taille-pour-le-succes-170415-96177) . Madame Figaro (in French) . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Dazed (2015-10-02). "The label that brought Kanye to a tacky Chinese restaurant" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/26810/1/deconstructing-vetements-ss16-chinese-restaurant-kanye) . Dazed . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "A Once-Obscure Designer Is Now the Talk of Paris" (https://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/04/fashion/paris-fashion-week-vetements-demna-gvasalia.html) . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Cartner-Morley, Jess (2016-03-03). "Vetements show is cathedral of raw energy" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/mar/03/vetements-show-is-cathedral-of-raw-energy) . the Guardian . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Vetements, le label underground qui bouscule l'industrie de la mode" (http://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/vetements-le-label-underground-qui-bouscule-lindustrie-de-la-mode-040716-115209) . Madame Figaro (in French) . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Dazed (2017-01-25). "Demna Gvasalia on turning stereotypes into Vetements" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/34475/1/demna-gvasalia-on-turning-stereotypes-into-vetements) . Dazed . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Porter, Charlie. "How does Vetements next revolutionise fashion? With a No Show" (https://www.ft.com/content/8f31a0da-599a-11e7-9bc8-8055f264aa8b) . Financial Times . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "The Top 10 Moments from the Men's Shows" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/24/t-magazine/mens-fashion-shows-best-moments.html) . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Mower, Sarah. "Vetements Spring 2019 Menswear Fashion Show" (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/vetements#coverage) . Vogue . Retrieved 2018-11-13 . 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English fashion model Nicola Sievwright Nikki Ross's model card, Peter Lumley, 1969 Born Nicola Macwilliam Ross ( 1943-01-28 ) 28 January 1943 Uckfield (/wiki/Uckfield) , Sussex (/wiki/Sussex) , England Died 12 March 2018 (2018-03-12) (aged 75) Swindon (/wiki/Swindon) , Wiltshire (/wiki/Wiltshire) , England Nationality British Occupation(s) Model, soldier Spouses John Venning ​ ​ ( m. 1968; div. 1974) ​ David Sievwright ​ ​ ( m. 1974) ​ Children 2 Military career Allegiance United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) Service/ branch British Army (/wiki/British_Army) Unit Ulster Defence Regiment (/wiki/Ulster_Defence_Regiment) Battles/wars The Troubles (/wiki/The_Troubles) Nicola Macwilliam Sievwright ( née (/wiki/Birth_name#Maiden_and_married_names) Ross ; 28 January 1943 – 12 March 2018) was an English fashion model who worked for Chloé (/wiki/Chlo%C3%A9) and Peter Lumley (/wiki/Peter_Hope_Lumley) . After marrying a cavalry officer in the British Army and moving to Northern Ireland, she joined the Ulster Defence Regiment (/wiki/Ulster_Defence_Regiment) as a greenfinch (/wiki/Ulster_Defence_Regiment#Women's_UDR_(Greenfinches)) . Early life and family [ edit ] Nicola Ross was born on 28 January 1943 to Charles Ross, an officer in the Colonial Service (/wiki/Colonial_Service) in Sierra Leone, and his wife Nina. Her mother was sent to England for Nikki's birth and she did not see her father until 1947. Her mother died four years later and her father remarried. The family moved to Jersey where Nicola attended the Victoria College (/wiki/Victoria_College,_Jersey) and became a strong horse rider. [1] (#cite_note-times-1) [ dubious – discuss (/wiki/Talk:Nikki_Sievwright#Dubious) ] Ross married the property developer John Venning in 1968 and, after they were divorced in 1974, David Sievwright, an officer in the 13th/18th Royal Hussars (/wiki/13th/18th_Royal_Hussars) . They had one son and one daughter. [1] (#cite_note-times-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Modelling [ edit ] After school, Ross moved to Paris where she was signed as a model for the French fashion house Chloé at the age of 18. Two years later she moved to London. In November 1965 she took part in a fashion show aboard the RMS (/wiki/RMS_Queen_Elizabeth) Queen Elizabeth in New York designed to capitalise on the Swinging London (/wiki/Swinging_London) phenomenon with the aim of taking £1m of fashion orders in one week. [1] (#cite_note-times-1) She worked with Gavin Robinson (/wiki/Gavin_Robinson_(model_agent)) of Old Bond Street (/wiki/Old_Bond_Street) in 1966 and 1967 [3] (#cite_note-3) and was signed by Peter Lumley. She was tipped to replace Jean Shrimpton (/wiki/Jean_Shrimpton) and became a regular in the gossip columns but disappointed the newspapers with her clean lifestyle. [1] (#cite_note-times-1) Ulster Defence Regiment [ edit ] After her husband and his regiment were posted to Northern Ireland during The Troubles (/wiki/The_Troubles) in the 1970s, Nikki Sievwright joined the Ulster Defence Regiment as a greenfinch, an act unprecedented for a cavalry officer's wife. She continued to work as a model. [1] (#cite_note-times-1) Women were first admitted to the regiment in 1973 due to a shortage of women from other services who could perform tasks only suitable for a woman to carry out, such as searching other women for explosives. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 1978, while operating a checkpoint in the "bandit country" of County Tyrone (/wiki/County_Tyrone) , near the border with the Irish Republic, Sievwright captured a wanted man after she found his passport hidden in the knickers of a woman he was with. [1] (#cite_note-times-1) Later life [ edit ] Sievwright later travelled around the world with her husband as he held various posts in military intelligence (/wiki/Military_intelligence) and rose to the rank of lieutenant colonel. [1] (#cite_note-times-1) [5] (#cite_note-5) She retired to Wiltshire (/wiki/Wiltshire) where she rode horses and played tennis. She died of sepsis (/wiki/Sepsis) at the Great Western Hospital (/wiki/Great_Western_Hospital) , Swindon, on 12 March 2018. [1] (#cite_note-times-1) [6] (#cite_note-6) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Nikki Sievwright obituary. (https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/nikki-sievwright-obituary-wzl0ts6nz) The Times , 7 April 2018. Retrieved 9 April 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-2) A Ride Back in Time. (http://gulfnews.com/news/uae/general/a-ride-back-in-time-1.346648) Bassam Za'Za, Gulf News , 8 February 2003. Retrieved 9 April 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Model Nikki Ross. (http://www.modelscomposites.com/getlist.php?list=mod&choice=Nikki+Ross&year=all&id=) The Model Archives of Marlowe Press. Retrieved 9 April 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Greenfinches join the UDR. (https://www.royal-irish.com/events/greenfinches-join-the-udr) Royal Irish. Retrieved 9 April 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Cavalry horses moved due to noise. (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/5204056.stm) BBC News, 21 July 2006. Retrieved 9 April 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Sievwright. (http://announcements.telegraph.co.uk/deaths/222745/sievwright) The Daily Telegraph , March 2018. Retrieved 9 April 2018. 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This biographical article is written like a résumé (/wiki/Wikipedia:NOTRESUME) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Danielle_Bernstein&action=edit) by revising it to be neutral (/wiki/Wikipedia:NPOV) and encyclopedic (/wiki/Wikipedia:MOSBIO) . ( September 2023 ) A major contributor to this article appears to have a close connection (/wiki/Wikipedia:Conflict_of_interest) with its subject. It may require cleanup to comply with Wikipedia's content policies, particularly neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . Please discuss further on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Danielle_Bernstein) . ( October 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) American blogger, and social media influencer Danielle Bernstein Born ( 1992-05-28 ) May 28, 1992 (age 32) Great Neck, New York (/wiki/Great_Neck,_New_York) , U.S. Occupation(s) Lifestyle influencer and entrepreneur Website weworewhat (http://weworewhat.com) .com (http://weworewhat.com) Danielle Bernstein (born May 28, 1992) is an American fashion designer and the founder of the fashion blog (/wiki/Fashion_blog) and brand WeWoreWhat, which she started when she was a sophomore in college. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-:2-2) She has collaborated with numerous brands and has launched her own fashion lines. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) On multiple occasions smaller brands and designers said Bernstein copied their designs, which Bernstein and her lawyer deny. Early life and education [ edit ] Bernstein graduated from William A. Shine Great Neck South High School (/wiki/William_A._Shine_Great_Neck_South_High_School) in 2010, [5] (#cite_note-5) and briefly attended the University of Wisconsin–Madison (/wiki/University_of_Wisconsin%E2%80%93Madison) , where she studied retail, and then transferred to the Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) in New York City. She dropped out of college to devote more time to her blog and turn it into a career. [6] (#cite_note-6) Bernstein is Jewish (/wiki/Jewish) . [7] (#cite_note-7) Career [ edit ] In 2011, Bernstein started WeWoreWhat as a street-style photographer, which soon after transitioned into a personal-style blog, as her Instagram account @WeWoreWhat gained popularity. In 2016, Bernstein launched a line of overalls (/wiki/Overalls) called Second Skin Overalls, a direct-to-consumer brand. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) In 2017 at the age of 24, Danielle was placed on the Forbes 30 Under 30 (/wiki/Forbes_30_Under_30) list. [8] (#cite_note-8) In 2017, Bernstein designed a swimwear collaboration with Onia (/wiki/Onia_(clothing)) [9] (#cite_note-9) that exclusively sold at Intermix, and was their best-selling suit that summer. The collaboration followed with two others, [10] (#cite_note-10) which the second of the two, an Italy-inspired collection, drove over $3 million in sales. [11] (#cite_note-11) Because of the success of their collaboration, in 2019, she launched her own swimwear line with Onia as her partners. In 2019, Bernstein teamed up with premium denim brand Joe's Jeans to design and release a new style of jeans, called the Danielle Jean. She is the first blogger and influencer to have a product collaboration with the company, and it led to a second collaboration with them that had added styles. [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) In 2020, she made the decision to bring all her brands under one roof with the launch of Shop WeWoreWhat which included swim, [14] (#cite_note-14) denim, overalls, and most recently added active. [15] (#cite_note-15) In the fall of 2019, Bernstein launched a tech company named Moe Assist, after her longtime intern-turned-assistant Moe Paretti. Moe Assist is the first product-management and payments tool specifically geared for an influencer's workflow, created by an influencer. With the desire to legitimize the industry, Danielle raised $1.2 million in a friends-and-family round of funding [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) In March 2020, Bernstein launched a namesake brand exclusively at Macy's called Danielle Bernstein. The debut spring collection was all priced under $100 and had a size range of 00–24, becoming Bernstein's first size-inclusive line. Along with the launch, Bernstein had a campaign shoot modeled by real-life followers, featuring women with different body shapes and types so that anyone could see themselves wearing the line. [18] (#cite_note-18) The first collection sold $1 million in the first 2 hours, and $2 million after 24 hours. [19] (#cite_note-19) The Danielle Bernstein summer line launched in June 2020, and featured vintage-inspired dresses and cute sets. [20] (#cite_note-20) In May 2020, Bernstein published an autobiography, This is Not a Fashion Story: Taking Chances, Breaking Rules, and Being a Boss in the Big City. She wrote about her personal life and her entrepreneurial journey. [21] (#cite_note-21) The book appeared on the New York Times Best Sellers (/wiki/New_York_Times_Best_Sellers) list and was featured on the Business List. [22] (#cite_note-22) However, the New York Times has since placed a "dagger" symbol alongside the book, indicating its listing includes suspicious "bulk purchases." [23] (#cite_note-23) As a response to the COVID-19 global pandemic, Bernstein launched her charitable arm of WeWoreWhat called WeGaveWhat. The organization began as a platform to support other charities and highlight small businesses that are struggling during the pandemic. To date, she has raised over $200,000 and donated thousands of masks and meals to frontline workers. WeWoreWhat also teamed up with artist Sara Sidari to create a coloring book where 100% of the proceeds went directly to the River Fund, which brought in another $10,000. [24] (#cite_note-24) In September 2020, Bernstein was diagnosed with the coronavirus (/wiki/Coronavirus_disease_2019) . [25] (#cite_note-covid-25) She previously had been socializing in the Hamptons without a mask, prompting criticism for failing to follow CDC guidelines. [25] (#cite_note-covid-25) Having a passion for design, Bernstein's Soho loft was featured in Architectural Digest in the Fall of 2021 , [26] (#cite_note-26) and her first ever WeWoreWhat office space was featured in EST Living. [27] (#cite_note-27) WeWoreWhat launched its own Visa rewards card program, where customers earn cash back on their purchases on the e-commerce site, as well as with all brand partners. The card acts as a debit card and has been in existence since April, 2022. [28] (#cite_note-28) Controversies [ edit ] Copying of designs [ edit ] In multiple instances, Bernstein has been noted for copying others' designs. In 2018, Bernstein received attention for copying the designs of various jewelry brands when she launched a series of products with Nordstrom (/wiki/Nordstrom) . Foundrae (/wiki/Foundrae) , a specialized jewelry line, said that she had created nearly identical pieces after an earlier visit to the company's studio. [29] (#cite_note-fashionista-29) Bernstein subsequently apologized in a tear-filled Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) post and withdrew the copied pieces from the collection. [29] (#cite_note-fashionista-29) [30] (#cite_note-people-30) In 2020, Bernstein announced a design for a cloth face mask (/wiki/Cloth_face_mask) with a chain. Fashion watchdog group Diet Prada (/wiki/Diet_Prada) , an Instagram account dedicated to highlighting instances of design copying, observed the mask was nearly identical to a patent-pending (/wiki/Patent_pending) model created by a Latino brand called Second Wind. Bernstein had earlier requested free samples from the company. [31] (#cite_note-schnurr-31) Bernstein denied that she had copied the design from Second Wind. [32] (#cite_note-32) Days later, Bernstein posted to Instagram a photo of herself wearing what she claimed were a vintage pair of gym shorts (/wiki/Gym_shorts) , writing in the caption that she would be remaking the shorts to sell. The shorts were actually from an Etsy (/wiki/Etsy) shop run by an Australian brand, Art Garments. After the Etsy seller published a receipt showing Bernstein had purchased the shorts from their store, Bernstein edited the Instagram caption to read, "CORRECTION - these are from Etsy and I totally thought they were vintage but they are made to order - someone on my team ordered them for me a while back - I will not be making them!" [33] (#cite_note-jezebel-33) In August 2020, a Brooklyn lingerie store alleged that Bernstein had copied their signature design, which they use on tissue packaging, and used it on swimwear and as print wallpaper (/wiki/Wallpaper) . [34] (#cite_note-dfr-34) In November 2020, Bernstein posted multiple Instagram photos previewing her upcoming holiday fashion line with Macy's. One of the pieces was a black patent leather skirt with a corset top. After receiving numerous messages noting the similarities, Grayscale designer Khala Whitney accused Bernstein of stealing her signature design: a black patent leather skirt with a corset top. Whitney shared screenshots of her messages with Bernstein from 2017. Bernstein inquired about the sizing of Grayscale's skirt and purchased it. Bernstein wore the skirt to Paris Fashion Week 2017 and highlighted it on YouTube and Instagram posts that have since been deleted. A screenshot of Bernstein wearing the skirt still circulates online. Bernstein and Macy's both decline to comment on the allegations. [35] (#cite_note-35) In January 2021, two former Onia employees spoke out against Bernstein, claiming she brought in items on multiple instances and wanted her team to emulate them. These items include a piece of Dolce & Gabbana fabric and a cotton top from Are You Am I. [36] (#cite_note-36) In March 2021, We Are Kin designer Ngoni Chikwenengere accused Bernstein of copying a silk dress from her clothing line. Chikwenengere provided screenshots of her messages with Bernstein from June 2020. Bernstein asked if she could be sent the dress as a gift. Chikwenengere was aware of the accusations against Bernstein, but knew Bernstein had 2.5 million followers and sent the dress in hopes she'd "see some business of the back of it." After seeing the accusations, Bernstein denied that she had copied the design. [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-38) Conflict with Poshmark reseller [ edit ] In January 2020, a clothing reseller posted swimwear for sale on the Poshmark (/wiki/Poshmark) platform, not realizing it was unreleased samples of Bernstein's swimwear collaboration with Onia. The samples had been accidentally donated to Goodwill (/wiki/Goodwill_Industries) by a showroom employee, where the reseller purchased them to sell online. Bernstein and the seller came to an agreement in which the reseller would remove the pieces from her store and sell them back to Bernstein. However, they argued over whether Bernstein had agreed to reimburse the costs of the swimwear as paid to Goodwill, or the seller's listed resale prices. Fearing the release of her new line, Bernstein spoke to the Poshmark CEO to halt the sale of the swimwear was put back up for sale. A Change.org petition was created titled "Pledge to Boycott Poshmark if they Continue to Allow the Bullying of Small Business." Eventually, Bernstein and the reseller met in person and came to an agreement where the reseller was given merchandise from the previous collection to sell at a greater value. [2] (#cite_note-:2-2) [39] (#cite_note-39) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Shatzman, Celia (August 20, 2018). "Danielle Bernstein Of WeWoreWhat On Self-Care, Style Inspo And The Best Part Of Her Job" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/celiashatzman/2018/08/20/danielle-bernstein-of-weworewhat-on-self-care-style-inspo-and-the-best-part-of-her-job/) . Forbes . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180820165505/https://www.forbes.com/sites/celiashatzman/2018/08/20/danielle-bernstein-of-weworewhat-on-self-care-style-inspo-and-the-best-part-of-her-job/) from the original on August 20, 2018 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Chen, Tanya (January 22, 2020). "A Poshmark Reseller Somehow Got Her Hands On A Major Fashion Influencer's Unreleased Clothing. Drama Ensued" (https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/tanyachen/dramatic-saga-between-fashion-influencer-weworewhat-and) . BuzzFeed News (/wiki/BuzzFeed_News) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200123132450/https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/tanyachen/dramatic-saga-between-fashion-influencer-weworewhat-and) from the original on January 23, 2020 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Krentcil, Faran (October 21, 2016). "Danielle Bernstein's New Overalls Line Made $70,000 in 3 Hours" (https://www.elle.com/fashion/news/a40198/danielle-bernstein-we-wore-what-net-worth/) . Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161024094333/http://www.elle.com:80/fashion/news/a40198/danielle-bernstein-we-wore-what-net-worth/) from the original on October 24, 2016 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-:1_4-0) Tietjen, Alexa (August 1, 2019). "Danielle Bernstein, Onia Make It Official With Licensing Deal" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/danielle-bernstein-onia-sign-licensing-deal-weworewhat-1203230588/) . WWD (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190801114835/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/danielle-bernstein-onia-sign-licensing-deal-weworewhat-1203230588/) from the original on August 1, 2019 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Cohen, L.S. (March 23, 2020). "6 Questions For: Fashion Influencer Danielle Bernstein" (https://www.longisland.com/news/03-21-20/6-questions-for-fashion-influencer-danielle-bernstein.html) . LongIsland.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200922085907/https://www.longisland.com/news/03-21-20/6-questions-for-fashion-influencer-danielle-bernstein.html) from the original on September 22, 2020 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Roche, Eddie (February 11, 2019). "Danielle Bernstein Gets Real About Money And The Power of Influence" (https://fashionweekdaily.com/danielle-bernstein-fashion-influencer/) . Daily Front Row . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190328185306/https://fashionweekdaily.com/danielle-bernstein-fashion-influencer/) from the original on March 28, 2019 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Connelly, Irene Katz (September 10, 2020). "Influencer whose summer socializing sparked backlash contracts COVID" (https://forward.com/schmooze/454126/influencer-whose-summer-socializing-sparked-backlash-contracts-covid/) . The Forward (/wiki/The_Forward) . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Barton, Merrilee. "Danielle Bernstein" (https://www.forbes.com/profile/danielle-bernstein/) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180523174456/https://www.forbes.com/profile/danielle-bernstein/) from the original on May 23, 2018 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Hughes, Aria (April 9, 2018). "Danielle Bernstein of We Wore What Partners With Onia" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/intimates/danielle-bernstein-of-we-wore-what-partners-with-onia-1202645049/) . WWD . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Hughes, Aria (November 16, 2018). "Onia Continues Partnership With Danielle Bernstein" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/onia-we-wore-what-danielle-bernstein-1202908522/) . WWD . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "How WeWoreWhat's Danielle Bernstein Sold Nearly $2 million in Swimwear in 12 Hours" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/professional/how-weworewhats-danielle-bernstein-sold-nearly-2-million-in-swimwear-in-12-hours) . The Business of Fashion . May 3, 2019 . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Tietjen, Alexa (November 4, 2019). "Danielle Bernstein, Joe's Jeans Reunite After Successful Collaboration" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/danielle-bernstein-weworewhat-joes-jeans-second-collaboration-1203361038/) . WWD (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191105160730/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/danielle-bernstein-weworewhat-joes-jeans-second-collaboration-1203361038/) from the original on November 5, 2019 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Tietjen, Alexa (November 4, 2019). "Danielle Bernstein, Joe's Jeans Reunite After Successful Collaboration" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/danielle-bernstein-weworewhat-joes-jeans-second-collaboration-1203361038/) . WWD . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Tietjen, Alexa (August 1, 2019). "Danielle Bernstein, Onia Make It Official With Licensing Deal" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/danielle-bernstein-onia-sign-licensing-deal-weworewhat-1203230588/) . WWD . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Ell, Kellie (August 19, 2020). "EXCLUSIVE: Danielle Bernstein's We Wore What Launches Activewear Collection" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/activewear/we-wore-what-activewear-collection-1203701737/) . WWD . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Venture capitalists 'like and subscribe' to influencers" (https://social.techcrunch.com/2019/11/04/venture-capitalists-like-and-subscribe-to-influencers/) . TechCrunch . November 4, 2019 . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Tietjen, Alexa (June 22, 2020). "Danielle Bernstein Launches Global Creators Community" (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/danielle-bernstein-influencer-weworewhat-global-creators-community-1203656514/) . WWD . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Tietjen, Alexa (February 27, 2020). "First Look: Danielle Bernstein Brings Eponymous Label to Macy's" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/danielle-bernstein-label-macys-1203513229/) . WWD . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Tyler Haney Talks OV Exit, Danielle Bernstein Macy's Collab Soars" (https://fashionweekdaily.com/tyler-haney-outdoor-voices-statement-danielle-bernstein-macys-sales/) . Daily Front Row . March 12, 2020 . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "WeWoreWhat's Summer New Arrivals at Macy's Are Totally Instagrammable and Selling Out Fast" (https://www.eonline.com/news/1166199/weworewhats-summer-new-arrivals-at-macys-are-totally-instagrammable-and-selling-out-fast) . E! Online . June 30, 2020 . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Simon, Samantha (October 23, 2019). "WeWoreWhat's Danielle Bernstein Is Releasing Her First Book—And It's Not Just About Style" (https://www.instyle.com/reviews-coverage/books/danielle-bernstein-weworewhat-book-interview) . InStyle (/wiki/InStyle) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191223232454/https://www.instyle.com/reviews-coverage/books/danielle-bernstein-weworewhat-book-interview) from the original on December 23, 2019 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Business Books - Best Sellers - The New York Times" (https://www.nytimes.com/books/best-sellers/business-books/) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "About the Best Sellers - The New York Times" (https://www.nytimes.com/books/best-sellers/methodology/) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved October 20, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Roche, Eddie (May 5, 2020). "Danielle Bernstein Is Using Her Massive Platform To Help Others" (https://fashionweekdaily.com/how-danielle-bernstein-is-using-her-platform-to-help-others/) . Daily Front Row . Retrieved August 31, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Carroll, Nadine (September 7, 2020). "Instagram influencer slammed after contracting virus on holiday" (https://au.news.yahoo.com/instagram-influencer-slammed-after-contracting-virus-on-holiday-021712463.html) . Yahoo . Retrieved September 7, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Inside the SoHo Home of Influencer Danielle Bernstein" (https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/inside-the-soho-home-of-influencer-danielle-bernstein) . Architectural Digest . October 8, 2021 . Retrieved January 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Boniwell, Lidia (June 29, 2022). "My Space | Danielle Bernstein | est living" (https://www.estliving.com/my-space-danielle-bernstein/) . est living | exceptional living . Retrieved January 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Danielle Bernstein Is Launching a WeWoreWhat Credit Card" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/marketing-pr/danielle-bernstein-is-launching-a-weworewhat-credit-card/) . The Business of Fashion . April 4, 2022 . Retrieved January 27, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Prant, Dara (May 11, 2018). "We Wore What Is in Hot Water over Allegedly Copying Jewelry Designs [Updated]" (https://fashionista.com/2018/05/danielle-bernstein-we-wore-what-jewelry-copy-diet-prada-allegations) . Fashionista (/wiki/Fashionista_(website)) . Retrieved July 21, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-people_30-0) Ruffo, Jillian (May 7, 2018). "Instagram Star Danielle Bernstein Speaks Out After Being Accused of Knocking Off Jewelry Lines" (https://people.com/style/instagram-danielle-bernstein-weworewhat-jewelry-knockoff-accusations/) . People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 21, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-schnurr_31-0) Schnurr, Samantha (July 21, 2020). "WeWoreWhat's Danielle Bernstein Addresses Claim She Copied Design From Mask Brand" (https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/weworewhats-danielle-bernstein-addresses-claim-184550855.html) . Yahoo! Entertainment (/wiki/Yahoo!_Entertainment) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809154135/https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/weworewhats-danielle-bernstein-addresses-claim-184550855.html) from the original on August 9, 2020 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Huber, Eliza (July 23, 2020). "Karen Perez Of Second Wind Shares Her Side Of The Danielle Bernstein Mask Controversy" (https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2020/07/9928708/danielle-bernstein-we-wore-what-mask-copy-second-wind-karen-perez) . Refinery29 (/wiki/Refinery29) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200723215905/https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2020/07/9928708/danielle-bernstein-we-wore-what-mask-copy-second-wind-karen-perez) from the original on July 23, 2020 . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-jezebel_33-0) Sherman, Maria (August 8, 2020). "WeWoreWhat's Danielle Bernstein Accused of Attempting to Steal Yet Another Design From a Small Business" (https://jezebel.com/weworewhats-danielle-bernstein-accused-of-attempting-to-1844635015) . Jezebel . New York . Retrieved August 8, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-dfr_34-0) Sherman, Maria (August 7, 2020). "Lingerie Store Claims Influencer Danielle Bernstein Stole Their Design" (https://fashionweekdaily.com/danielle-bernstein-lingerie-store-brooklyn/) . Fashion Week Daily . New York . Retrieved August 8, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Jibilian, Isabella. "A designer worn by Cardi B and Doja Cat says mega-influencer Danielle Bernstein copied her skirt and plans to sell it at Macy's: 'She has some explaining to do' (https://www.businessinsider.com/danielle-bernstein-macys-accused-by-grayscale-khala-whitney-copied-skirt-design-2020-11) " (https://www.businessinsider.com/danielle-bernstein-macys-accused-by-grayscale-khala-whitney-copied-skirt-design-2020-11) . Business Insider . Retrieved September 19, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Premack, Rachel. "Insiders who worked with Instagram mega influencer Danielle Bernstein say she rips off fashion designers and gets away with it" (https://www.businessinsider.com/danielle-bernstein-weworewhat-insiders-speak-out-2021-1) . Business Insider . Retrieved September 19, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) Willen, Celia Fernandez, Claudia (January 24, 2020). "Danielle Bernstein is being accused of copying a dress design by another brand. Here are some of the WeWoreWhat founder's biggest controversies" (https://www.insider.com/danielle-bernstein-controversies-timeline-copying-designers-lawsuits-covid-19-2020-10) . Insider . Retrieved September 19, 2021 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-38) " (https://news.yahoo.com/danielle-bernstein-wearekin-dress-165739128.html) 'I did not copy her dress': Designer responds after being accused of stealing design from Black-owned business" (https://news.yahoo.com/danielle-bernstein-wearekin-dress-165739128.html) . news.yahoo.com . Retrieved September 19, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Fernandez, Celia (January 30, 2020). "A fashion influencer feuded with a Poshmark seller after she put items from the blogger's unreleased swimwear line up for sale" (https://www.insider.com/danielle-bernstein-jade-myers-poshmark-swimwear-feud-2020-1) . Insider (/wiki/Insider_(website)) . Retrieved August 9, 2020 . 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(Redirected from Pleated jeans (/w/index.php?title=Pleated_jeans&redirect=no) ) Deliberate fold in the design of a textile object or garment "Knife pleat" redirects here. For the Michelin-starred restaurant in California, see Knife Pleat (restaurant) (/wiki/Knife_Pleat_(restaurant)) . Catholic clergymen wearing pleated rochets (/wiki/Rochet) A pleat ( plait in older English) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric (/wiki/Textile) back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing (/wiki/Clothing) and upholstery (/wiki/Upholstery) to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference. [1] (#cite_note-1) Pleats are categorized as pressed , that is, ironed (/wiki/Ironing) or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed , falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats sewn into place are called tucks (/wiki/Tuck_(sewing)) . Types [ edit ] Accordion [ edit ] Knife pleat Accordion pleats or knife pleats are a form of tight pleating which allows the garment to expand its shape when moving. Accordion pleating is also used for some dress sleeves, such as pleating the end of the elbow, with the fullness of the pleat gathered closely at the cuff. This form of pleating inspired the "skirt dancing" of Loie Fuller (/wiki/Loie_Fuller) . [2] (#cite_note-CummingCunnington2010-2) Accordion pleats may also be used in hand fans. Box [ edit ] Box pleats Double box pleats Box pleats are knife pleats back-to-back, and have a tendency to spring out from the waistline. [3] (#cite_note-Picken,_Mary_Brooks_p._257-3) They have the same 3:1 ratio as knife pleats, and may also be stacked to form "stacked-" or "double-box pleats". These stacked box pleats create more fullness and have a 5:1 ratio. They also create a bulkier seam. Inverted box pleats have the "box" on the inside rather than the outside. Cartridge [ edit ] Cartridge pleats Cartridge pleats are used to gather a large amount of fabric into a small waistband or armscye without adding bulk to the seam. This type of pleating also allows the fabric of the skirt or sleeve to spring out from the seam. During the 15th and 16th centuries, this form of pleating was popular in the garments of men and women. Fabric is evenly gathered using two or more lengths of basting stitches, and the top of each pleat is whipstitched onto the waistband or armscye. Cartridge pleating was resurrected in 1840s fashion (/wiki/1840s_in_fashion) to attach the increasingly full bell-shaped skirts to the fashionable narrow waist. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) Fluted [ edit ] Fluted pleats or "flutings" are very small, rounded or pressed pleats used as trimmings (/wiki/Trim_(sewing)) . [7] (#cite_note-7) The name comes from their resemblance to a pan flute (/wiki/Pan_flute) . Fortuny [ edit ] Fortuny pleats are crisp pleats set in silk fabrics by designer Mariano Fortuny (/wiki/Mariano_Fortuny_(designer)) in the early 20th century, using a secret pleat-setting process which is still not understood. Honeycomb [ edit ] Honeycomb pleats are narrow, rolled pleats used as a foundation for smocking (/wiki/Smocking) . Kick [ edit ] Kick pleats are short pleats leading upwards from the bottom hem of garments such as skirts or coats, usually at the back. They allow the garment to drape straight down when stationary while also allowing freedom of movement. Kingussie [ edit ] Kingussie pleats Kingussie pleats, named after the town in Scotland (/wiki/Kingussie) , are a very rarely seen type of pleat used in some Scottish kilts (/wiki/Kilt) . They consist of a single centrally located box pleat in the rear of the kilt with knife pleats fanning out on either side. Knife [ edit ] Knife pleats are used for basic gathering purposes, and form a smooth line rather than springing away from the seam they have been gathered to. The pleats have a 3:1 ratio–three inches of fabric will create one inch of finished pleat. Knife pleats can be recognized by the way that they overlap in the seam. [3] (#cite_note-Picken,_Mary_Brooks_p._257-3) Organ [ edit ] Organ pleats are parallel rows of softly rounded pleats resembling the pipes of a pipe organ (/wiki/Pipe_organ) . Carl Köhler [8] (#cite_note-8) suggests that these are made by inserting one or more gores (/wiki/Gore_(fabrics)) into a panel of fabric. Plissé [ edit ] Plissé pleats are narrow pleats made by gathering fabric with stitches, wetting the fabric, and "setting" the pleats by allowing the wet fabric to dry under weight or tension. Linen (/wiki/Linen) chemises or smocks (/wiki/Chemise) pleated with this technique have been found in the tenth century Viking (/wiki/Viking) graves in Birka (/wiki/Birka) . [9] (#cite_note-9) Rolled [ edit ] Rolled pleats create tubular pleats which run the length of the fabric from top to bottom. A piece of the fabric to be pleated is pinched and then rolled until it is flat against the rest of the fabric, forming a tube. A variation on the rolled pleat is the stacked pleat, which is rolled similarly and requires at least five inches of fabric per finished pleat. Both types of pleating create a bulky seam. Watteau [ edit ] Watteau pleats are one or two box pleats found at the back neckline of 18th century (/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_fashion) sack-back gowns (/wiki/Sack-back_gown) and some late 19th century (/wiki/1890s_in_fashion) tea gowns (/wiki/Tea_gown) in imitation of these. The term is not contemporary, but is used by costume historians in reference to these styles as portrayed in the paintings of Antoine Watteau (/wiki/Antoine_Watteau) . [10] (#cite_note-10) The knife pleat is the basic pleat used in sewing. Knife pleats with the construction and seam stitches shown. Box pleats for a skirt. Modern usage [ edit ] Clothing features pleats for practical reasons (to provide freedom of movement to the wearer) as well as for purely stylistic reasons. Shirts, blouses, jackets [ edit ] A girl wearing a pleated plaid (/wiki/Plaid_(pattern)) skirt. ( Tekkoshocon (/wiki/Tekko_(convention)) , Pittsburgh (/wiki/Pittsburgh) , Pennsylvania (/wiki/Pennsylvania) , 2010) Shirts (/wiki/Dress_shirt) and blouses (/wiki/Blouse) typically have pleats on the back to provide freedom of movement and on the arm where the sleeve tapers to meet the cuff. The standard men's shirt has a box pleat in the center of the back just below the shoulder or alternately one simple pleat on each side of the back. Jackets (/wiki/Jacket) designed for active outdoor wear frequently have pleats (usually inverted box pleats) to allow for freedom of movement. Norfolk jackets (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) have double-ended inverted box pleats at the chest and back. Skirts and kilts [ edit ] Skirts (/wiki/Skirts) , dresses (/wiki/Dress_(garment)) and kilts (/wiki/Kilt) can include pleats of various sorts to add fullness from the waist or hips, or at the hem, to allow freedom of movement or achieve design effects. One or more kick pleats may be set near the hem of a straight skirt to allow the wearer to walk comfortably while preserving the narrow style line. Modern kilts may be made with either box pleats or knife pleats, and can be pleated to the stripe or pleated to the sett (see main article Kilts: Pleating and stitching (/wiki/Kilt#Pleating_and_stitching) ). Trousers [ edit ] Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) with pleated legs. Pleats just below the waistband on the front of the garment are typical of many styles of formal and casual trousers (/wiki/Trousers) including suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) trousers and khakis. There may be one, two, three, or no pleats, which may face either direction. When the pleats open towards the pockets they are called reverse pleats (typical of khakis and corduroy trousers) and when they open toward the zipper, they are known as forward pleats . Utilitarian or very casual styles such as jeans (/wiki/Jeans) and cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) are flat-front (without pleats at the waistband) but may have bellows pockets. Pleated trousers were popular before World War II; fabric rationing during the war precluded the style, and flat front became the standard by necessity of cloth shortages. [ citation needed ] Pleated pants, especially of the double reverse pleat variety, were commonplace in the 1980s and 1990s, but by the late 2000s they had fallen out of favour. [11] (#cite_note-11) Pockets [ edit ] A bellows pocket is patch pocket (/wiki/Pocket) with an inset box pleat to allow the pocket to expand when filled. Bellows pockets are typical of cargo pants, safari jackets (/wiki/Safari_jacket) , and other utilitarian garments. Pleated blinds [ edit ] The pleated blinds (/w/index.php?title=Pleated_blinds&action=edit&redlink=1) are curtains made of a dense fabric that folds up in an accordion when lifted. The model was developed in Germany in the middle of the 20th century. Today pleated blinds are popular all over the world due to their functionality, variety of design and effective protection from sunlight. Gallery [ edit ] 1 – Sunray pleats 2 – Box pleats 3 – Fortuny pleats 4 – Knife pleats 5 – Organ pleats 6 – Watteau pleats 7 – Fine boxed pleats Woodblock print (/wiki/File:Fan,_Japanese.png) of sunray pleated folding fan, Japan, 19th century Afternoon costume (/wiki/File:GrandsMagasinDuLaSamaritaineSaionDEte1886page21_detail_1.jpg) with box pleated skirt and unpressed box pleated bodice panel, France, 1886 Fortuny (/wiki/File:Conde_nast_fortuny.jpg) pleated Delphos gown (/wiki/Delphos_gown) , 1917 Knife-pleated kilt (/wiki/File:Highland_Dance_002.jpg) with pleats sewn down to the hip line, 2005 Organ pleated (/wiki/File:Antonello_da_Messina_060.jpg) gown, Florentine, 1470 Tea gowns (/wiki/File:Wiktor_Elpidiforowitsch_Borissow-Mussatow_002.jpg) with Watteau-pleated backs, Russia, 1899 Fustanella (/wiki/Fustanella) - Balkans men's garb with pleats See also [ edit ] Dart (/wiki/Dart_(sewing)) Gather (/wiki/Gather_(sewing)) David Pleat (/wiki/David_Pleat) (born 1945), English football player, manager, and sports commentator References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary , Funk and Wagnalls, 1957, pp. 256–257 ^ (#cite_ref-CummingCunnington2010_2-0) Valerie Cumming; Valerie Cumming, C.W. Cunnington, P. E. Cunnington; C. W. Cunnington; P. E. Cunnington (1 September 2010). The Dictionary of Fashion History . Berg. p. 1. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84788-738-2 . Retrieved 10 January 2012 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ Jump up to: a b Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary , p. 257 ^ (#cite_ref-4) Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their Clothes 1770–1870 , Laura Ashley Press ^ (#cite_ref-5) Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560–1620 , Macmillan 1985 ^ (#cite_ref-6) Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1 (cut and construction of women's clothing, 1660–1860) , Wace 1964, Macmillan 1972. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Caulfield and Saward, The Dictionary of Needlework , p. 212 ^ (#cite_ref-8) Köhler, Carl: A History of Costume , Dover Publications reprint, 1963 ^ (#cite_ref-9) Owen-Crocker, Gale R. (/wiki/Gale_Owen-Crocker) , Dress in Anglo-Saxon England revised edition, Boydell Press, 2004, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-84383-081-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-84383-081-7) , p. 42, 218 ^ (#cite_ref-10) Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary , pp. 257, 370 ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Don't Fear the Return of Pleated Pants" (https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-05-17/don-t-fear-the-return-of-pleated-pants-how-to-wear-them) . Bloomberg . 17 May 2018. Sources [ edit ] Arnold, Janet (/wiki/Janet_Arnold) : Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560–1620 , Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-89676-083-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-89676-083-9) Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1 (cut and construction of women's clothing, 1660–1860) , Wace 1964, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-89676-026-X (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-89676-026-X) . Kohler, Carl: A History of Costume , Dover Publications reprint, 1963, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-21030-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-486-21030-8) Owen-Crocker, Gale R. (/wiki/Gale_Owen-Crocker) , Dress in Anglo-Saxon England revised edition, Boydell Press, 2004, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-84383-081-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-84383-081-7) Picken, Mary Brooks (/wiki/Mary_Brooks_Picken) , The Fashion Dictionary , Funk and Wagnalls, 1957. (1973 edition ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-308-10052-2 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-308-10052-2) ) Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their Clothes 1770–1870 , Laura Ashley Press, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9508913-0-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-9508913-0-4) External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Pleats (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Pleats) . v t e Sewing (/wiki/Sewing) Techniques Basting (/wiki/Tack_(sewing)) Cut (/wiki/Cut_(clothing)) Darning (/wiki/Darning) Ease (/wiki/Ease_(sewing)) Embellishment (/wiki/Embellishment) Fabric tube turning (/wiki/Fabric_tube_turning) Floating canvas (/wiki/Floating_canvas) Gather (/wiki/Gather_(sewing)) Godet (/wiki/Godet_(sewing)) Gore (fabrics) (/wiki/Gore_(fabrics)) Gusset (/wiki/Gusset) Heirloom sewing (/wiki/Heirloom_sewing) Pleat Shirring (/wiki/Shirring) Stitches (/wiki/Stitch_(textile_arts)) ( list (/wiki/List_of_sewing_stitches) ) Backstitch 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(Redirected from Contemporary Western wedding dress (/w/index.php?title=Contemporary_Western_wedding_dress&redirect=no) ) Dress worn by a bride during the wedding ceremony For other uses, see Wedding dress (disambiguation) (/wiki/Wedding_dress_(disambiguation)) and Gown (disambiguation) (/wiki/Gown_(disambiguation)) . A white wedding dress, 2013 Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e This article possibly contains original research (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research) . Please improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Wedding_dress&action=edit) by verifying (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) the claims made and adding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Statements consisting only of original research should be removed. ( July 2022 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) A wedding dress or bridal gown is the dress (/wiki/Dress) worn by the bride (/wiki/Bride) during a wedding (/wiki/Wedding) ceremony. The color, style and ceremonial importance of the gown can depend on the religion and culture of the wedding participants. In Western culture, the wedding dress is most commonly white, a fashion made popular by Queen Victoria (/wiki/Queen_Victoria) when she married in 1840. In Eastern (/wiki/Eastern_world) cultures, brides often choose red to symbolize auspiciousness. Western culture [ edit ] Wedding dress from 1891. Until the late 1960s wedding dresses reflected the styles of the day; since then they have often been based on Victorian styles. Weddings performed during and immediately following the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) were often more than just a union between two people. They could be a union between two families, two businesses or even two countries. Many weddings were more a matter of politics (/wiki/Political_alliance) than love (/wiki/Love) , particularly among the nobility (/wiki/Nobility) and the higher social classes. Brides were therefore expected to dress in a manner that cast their families in the most favorable light and befitted their social status, for they were not representing only themselves during the ceremony. Brides from wealthy families often wore rich colors and exclusive fabrics. It was common to see them wearing bold colors and layers of furs, velvet (/wiki/Velvet) and silk (/wiki/Silk) . Brides dressed in the height of current fashion, with the richest materials their families' money could buy. The poorest of brides wore their best church dress on their wedding day. The amount and the price of material a wedding dress contained was a reflection of the bride's social standing and indicated the extent of the family's wealth to wedding guests. Color of wedding dresses [ edit ] The first documented instance of a princess who wore a white wedding dress for a royal wedding ceremony is that of Philippa of England (/wiki/Philippa_of_England) , who wore a tunic (/wiki/Tunic) with a cloak (/wiki/Cloak) in white silk (/wiki/Silk) bordered with squirrel (/wiki/Squirrel) and ermine (/wiki/Stoat) in 1406, when she married Eric of Pomerania (/wiki/Eric_of_Pomerania) . [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Mary, Queen of Scots (/wiki/Mary,_Queen_of_Scots) , wore a white wedding dress in 1559 when she married her first husband, Francis (/wiki/Francis_II_of_France) , the Dauphin of France (/wiki/Dauphin_of_France) , because it was her favorite color, although white was then the color of mourning for French queens. [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) This was not a widespread trend, however: prior to the Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) , a bride was married in any color, black being popular in Finland (/wiki/Finland) . [5] (#cite_note-5) White became a popular option in 1840, after the marriage of Queen Victoria (/wiki/Victoria_of_the_United_Kingdom) to Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (/wiki/Albert_of_Saxe-Coburg_and_Gotha) , when Victoria wore a white gown (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Queen_Victoria) trimmed with Honiton lace (/wiki/Honiton_lace) . Illustrations of the wedding were widely published, and many brides opted for white in accordance with the Queen's choice. [6] (#cite_note-6) Later, many people assumed that the color white was intended to symbolize virginity (/wiki/Virginity) , though this was not the original intention: it was the color blue (/wiki/Blue_(color)) that was connected to purity, piety, faithfulness, and the Virgin Mary (/wiki/Virgin_Mary) . [7] (#cite_note-7) Even after white became the dominant color, for a period, wedding dresses were adapted to the styles of the day. In the early 1900s, clothing included a lot of decorations, such as lace or frills. This was also adopted in wedding dresses, where decorative frills and lace were common. For example, in the 1920s, they were typically short in the front with a longer train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) in the back and were worn with cloche (/wiki/Cloche_hat) -style wedding veils (/wiki/Veil#Bridal_veils) . This tendency to follow current fashions continued until the late 1960s, when it became popular to revert to long, full-skirted designs reminiscent of the Victorian era. [ citation needed ] Since the middle of the 20th century, most Western wedding dresses have usually been white (/wiki/White_(colour)) , [8] (#cite_note-8) though "wedding white" includes shades such as eggshell (/wiki/Eggshell_(colour)) , ecru (/wiki/Ecru_(colour)) , and ivory (/wiki/Ivory_(color)) . White is not the universal color of wedding dresses. In Mexico, for example, red is a popular color. [ citation needed ] In the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (/wiki/The_Church_of_Jesus_Christ_of_Latter-day_Saints) the color white is used as a symbol of purity, innocence, and cleanliness, particularly in religious ceremonies (/wiki/Ordinance_(Latter_Day_Saints)) such as baptism [9] (#cite_note-9) and temple (/wiki/Temple_(LDS_Church)) ceremonies, including weddings. [10] (#cite_note-10) For weddings in the temple, white clothing is also worn by all participants during the ceremony, both men and women, to symbolize unity and equality before God. [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) The brides should be "white, modest in design and fabric, and free of elaborate ornamentation." [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) Current fashion [ edit ] In the early 21st century many wedding dresses on the market are sleeveless (/wiki/Sleeveless) and strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) . [15] (#cite_note-Goldstein-15) [ better source needed ] Other brides prefer styles with sleeves, higher necklines, and covered backs. [ citation needed ] Eastern culture [ edit ] Qing-dynasty styled traditional Chinese wedding dress with a phoenix crown (/wiki/Phoenix_crown) (鳳冠) headpiece still used in modern Taiwanese (/wiki/Taiwan) weddings. Many wedding dresses in China (/wiki/China) , India (/wiki/India) , Bangladesh (/wiki/Bangladesh) , and Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) are red; the traditional Indian color representing good luck and auspiciousness. Vietnamese (/wiki/Vietnam) wedding dresses (in the traditional form of áo tấc the ancient Ao dai (/wiki/Ao_dai) ) were dark blue. Today, many women choose other colors besides red. In modern mainland Chinese weddings, the bride may opt for Western dresses of any color, and don a traditional costume for the wedding tea ceremony (/wiki/Chinese_tea_culture) . In modern Taiwanese (/wiki/Taiwan) weddings, the bride generally picks red (following Chinese tradition) or white (more Western) silk for the wedding gown material, but most will wear the red traditional garment for their formal wedding banquets. Traditionally, the father of the bride is responsible for the wedding banquet (/wiki/Chinese_marriage#Traditional_marriage_rituals) hosted on the bride's side and the alcohol (specifically called "xi-jiu," confusingly the same as what the wedding banquet itself is called) consumed during both banquets. While the wedding itself is often based on the couple's choices, the wedding banquets are a symbolic gesture of "thanks" and appreciation, to those who have raised the bride and groom (such as grandparents and uncles) and those who will continue to be there to help the bride and groom in the future. Thus out of respect for the elders, wedding banquets are usually done formally and traditionally. Japanese formal wedding dress still used today. Red saris (/wiki/Sari) , lehengas (/wiki/Lehenga) , and salwar kameez (/wiki/Salwar_kameez) are traditional garment options for brides in Indian (/wiki/India) cultures. The fabric of choice is also traditionally silk, regardless of garment type. Over time, color options and fabric choices for Indian brides have expanded. Today fabrics like crepe, Georgette, charmeuse, and satin are used, and colors have been expanded to include gold, pink, orange, maroon, brown, and yellow as well. Traditionally, a Kurdish (/wiki/Kurds) first-time bride would wear a red dress for her wedding to symbolize the postcoital bleeding (/wiki/Postcoital_bleeding) she will experience when she loses her virginity while a Kurdish bride who used to be married before would wear pink. Today, many Kurds associate red wedding dresses with impoverished Kurdish rural (/wiki/Rural) society and it is no longer commonly worn. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) A Japanese wedding (/wiki/Japanese_wedding) usually involves a traditional pure white kimono for the formal ceremony, symbolizing purity and maidenhood. The bride may change into a red kimono for the events after the ceremony for good luck. The Javanese people (/wiki/Javanese_people) of Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) wear a kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) , a traditional kind of blouse, along with batik (/wiki/Batik) . In the Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) , variations of the Baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) adapted to the white wedding tradition are considered to be wedding attire for women, along with the barong tagalog (/wiki/Barong_tagalog) for men. Various tribes and Muslim Filipinos (/wiki/Muslim_Filipino) don other forms of traditional dress during their respective ceremonies. Native American culture [ edit ] Apache (/wiki/Apache) bride The indigenous peoples of the Americas (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Americas) have varying traditions related to weddings and thus wedding dresses. A Hopi (/wiki/Hopi) bride traditionally had her garments woven by the groom and any men in the village who wished to participate. [19] (#cite_note-19) The garments consisted of a large belt, two all-white wedding robes, a white wedding robe with red stripes at the top and bottom, white buckskin leggings and moccasins, a string for tying the hair, and a reed mat in which to wrap the outfit. This outfit also served as a shroud, since these garments would be necessary for the trip through the underworld. A Pueblo (/wiki/Pueblo) bride wore a cotton garment tied above the right shoulder, secured with a belt around the waist. In the traditions of the Delaware (/wiki/Delaware_people) , a bride wore a knee-length skirt of deerskin and a band of wampum (/wiki/Wampum) beads around her forehead. Except for fine beads or shell necklaces, the body was bare from the waist up. If it was a winter wedding, she wore deerskin leggings and moccasins and a robe of turkey feathers. Her face was painted with white, red, and yellow clay. The tribes of Northern California (/wiki/California) (which include the Klamath (/wiki/Klamath_people) , the Modoc (/wiki/Modoc_people) , and the Yurok (/wiki/Yurok_people) ) had a traditional bridal dress woven in symbolic colors: white for the east, blue for the south, yellow (orange) for the west; and black for the north. Turquoise and silver jewelry were worn by both the bride and the groom in addition to a silver concho belt (/wiki/Concho_belt) . Jewelry was considered a shield against evils including hunger, poverty, and bad luck. Gallery [ edit ] Historical Western European wedding dresses [ edit ] Detail from The Marriage by Nicolo da Bologna (/wiki/Nicolo_da_Bologna) , 1350s. Helena Fourment (/wiki/Helena_Fourment) , second wife of Peter Paul Rubens, painted by Rubens in her wedding dress, 1630. Sophia Magdalena of Denmark (/wiki/Sophia_Magdalena_of_Denmark) 's wedding dress, 1766. The Royal Armoury (/wiki/Livrustkammaren) in Sweden. Marriage of Napoleon I (/wiki/Napoleon_I) and Marie Louise (/wiki/Marie_Louise,_Duchess_of_Parma) . France (/wiki/France) , 1810. Wedding dresses from different areas of the world [ edit ] Traditional Finnish farmer wedding dress in Jomala (/wiki/Jomala) , Åland (/wiki/%C3%85land) Traditional Kazakh (/wiki/Kazakhstan) wedding dress Traditional Armenian (/wiki/Armenians) wedding dress 18th-century wedding dress from Kymi, Greece (/wiki/Kymi,_Greece) (Collection of PFF (/wiki/Peloponnesian_Folklore_Foundation) , Nauplio (/wiki/Nauplio) ) Bride in a wedding dress, Podhale (/wiki/Podhale) , the Tatra Mountains (/wiki/Tatra_Mountains) Yemenite Jewish (/wiki/Yemenite_Jewish) bride in Israel, 1950s Wedding of Tewfik Pasha (/wiki/Tewfik_Pasha) and Emina Ilhamy (/wiki/Emina_Ilhamy) , Cairo, Egypt, January 1873 Chinese couple wearing traditional wedding hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) South Asian dresses [ edit ] Indian Hindu (/wiki/Hinduism_in_India) bride in red Sari (/wiki/Sari) Sikh bride wearing purple lehenga (/wiki/Lehenga) and dastaar (/wiki/Dastaar) for Anand Karaj (/wiki/Anand_Karaj) Traditional (/wiki/Culture_of_Bengal) Bengali (/wiki/Bengalis) bride in formal matrimonial Sari (/wiki/Sari) Indian Christian bride in white Sari (/wiki/Sari) Nepali bride of Kathmandu, 1941 Bengali Hindu (/wiki/Bengali_Hindu) bride during Sindur Daan Marathi wedding Sri Lankan wedding Southeast Asian dresses [ edit ] Khmer (/wiki/Khmer_people) (Cambodian) couple dressed in traditional wedding outfits Vietnamese couple in traditional dress Couple dress in traditional Thai outfits Couple dressed in traditional Burmese outfits Bali Hindu wedding dress Reenactment of the royal wedding ceremony of King Gojong and Queen Myeongseong Modern Western-style dresses [ edit ] A bride in 1968, wearing a dress reflecting the styles of the time Patricia Nixon Cox (/wiki/Tricia_Nixon_Cox) with her father Richard Nixon (/wiki/Richard_Nixon) , 1971 Taiwanese (/wiki/Taiwanese_people) couple dressed Western-style for keepsake photos in the park, 1989 American bride marrying a Scotsman wearing a kilt, 1996 New Orleans bride wearing a strapless, sleeveless gown, 2006 Same-gender marriage (/wiki/Same-sex_marriage) . Saint Petersburg (/wiki/Saint_Petersburg) , Russia (/wiki/Russia) , 2014. See also [ edit ] Bridal crown (/wiki/Bridal_crown) Christian clothing (/wiki/Christian_clothing) Godey's Lady's Book (/wiki/Godey%27s_Lady%27s_Book) Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) Victorian fashion (/wiki/Victorian_fashion) Wedding dress of Camilla Parker Bowles (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Camilla_Parker_Bowles) Wedding dress of Grace Kelly (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Grace_Kelly) Wedding dress of Jacqueline Bouvier (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Jacqueline_Bouvier) Wedding dress of Kate Middleton (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Kate_Middleton) Wedding dress of Lady Diana Spencer (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Lady_Diana_Spencer) Wedding dress of Meghan Markle (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Meghan_Markle) Wedding dress of Princess Alexandra of Denmark (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Alexandra_of_Denmark) Wedding dress of Princess Anne (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Anne) Wedding dress of Princess Elizabeth (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Elizabeth) Wedding dress of Princess Margaret (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Margaret) Wedding dress of Princess Mary of Teck (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Mary_of_Teck) Wedding dress of Queen Victoria (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Queen_Victoria) Wedding dress of Sarah Ferguson (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Sarah_Ferguson) Wedding dress of Sophie Rhys-Jones (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Sophie_Rhys-Jones) Wedding dress of Victoria, Princess Royal (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Victoria,_Princess_Royal) Wedding dress of Wallis Warfield (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Wallis_Warfield) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Wedding white doesn't mean what you think it means" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160511141350/http://ivybridalstudio.com:80/wedding-white-doesnt-mean-what-you-think-it-means/) . Ivy Bridal Studio . 3 March 2014. Archived from the original (http://ivybridalstudio.com/wedding-white-doesnt-mean-what-you-think-it-means/) on 11 May 2016 . Retrieved 21 November 2014 . Princess Philippa of England is the first recorded princess to have worn white during her wedding in 1406, with her attire consisting of a tunic and cloak in white silk, but it wasn't until Queen Mary that the white dress would explode in popularity ^ (#cite_ref-2) "The History of Matrimony" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060506232925/http://www.amalfi-wedding-planner.com/eng/StoriaMatrimonio.htm) . Amalfi Wedding Planner . Archived from the original (http://www.amalfi-wedding-planner.com/eng/StoriaMatrimonio.htm) on 6 May 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Mary, Queen of Scots' first wedding day" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150623182153/http://madameguillotine.org.uk/2011/04/24/mary-queen-of-scots-first-wedding-day/) . Madame Guillotine . 24 April 2011. Archived from the original (http://madameguillotine.org.uk/2011/04/24/mary-queen-of-scots-first-wedding-day/) on 23 June 2015 . Retrieved 21 November 2014 . Mary's choice of a white wedding dress was an unusual one, particularly as white was more traditionally worn by royal ladies when they were in dieul blanc mourning but in this as in other things the strong willed Mary may well have been an innovator, keen to not just impress her own taste on her wedding day (after all, she hadn't been allowed the privilege of choosing her groom) but also emphasise her virginity and show off her famously pale redheaded beauty, which would have been accentuated by a pure white dress. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Elizabeth I Facts" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180724215348/http://www.elizabethfiles.com/resources/elizabeth-i-facts/) . The Elizabeth Files . 23 August 2009. Archived from the original (http://www.elizabethfiles.com/resources/elizabeth-i-facts/) on 24 July 2018 . Retrieved 21 November 2014 . Her favourite dress colours were white and black which symbolised purity. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Pelo, June. "Old Marriage Customs in Finland" (http://sydaby.eget.net/swe/jp_marriage.htm) . Sydaby.eget.net . Retrieved 19 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Royal Weddings 1840-1947" (https://www.rct.uk/collection/themes/exhibitions/royal-weddings-1840-1947/windsor-castle-drawings-gallery) . Royal Collection Trust . Retrieved 19 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Ashliman, DL (/wiki/D._L._Ashliman) (2004). Folk and Fairy Tales: A Handbook–Greenwood Folklore Handbooks . ABC-CLIO. p. 9. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313058592 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Stewart, Jude (14 February 2011). "The Bride Wore Chartreuse: Why (Most) Wedding Dresses are White" (https://www.printmag.com/imprint/the-bride-wore-chartreuse-why-most-wedding-dresses-are-white/) . Print . Retrieved 19 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Chapter 15: The Covenant of Baptism" (https://web.archive.org/web/20211216211222/https://abn.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/manual/doctrines-of-the-gospel/chapter-15?lang=eng) . Doctrines of the Gospel Teacher Manual . The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (/wiki/The_Church_of_Jesus_Christ_of_Latter-day_Saints) . Archived from the original (https://abn.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/manual/doctrines-of-the-gospel/chapter-15?lang=eng) on 16 December 2021 . Retrieved 16 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Preparing to Enter the Holy Temple" (https://web.archive.org/web/20211216211107/https://abn.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/manual/preparing-to-enter-the-holy-temple/preparing-to-enter-the-holy-temple?lang=eng) . Preparing to Enter the Holy Temple . The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (/wiki/The_Church_of_Jesus_Christ_of_Latter-day_Saints) . Archived from the original (https://abn.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/manual/preparing-to-enter-the-holy-temple/preparing-to-enter-the-holy-temple?lang=eng) on 16 December 2021 . Retrieved 16 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Lesson 5: Learning from the Lord through Symbols" (https://web.archive.org/web/20211216211123/https://abn.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/manual/endowed-from-on-high/lesson-5?lang=eng) . Endowed from on High: Temple Preparation Seminar Teacher’s Manual . The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (/wiki/The_Church_of_Jesus_Christ_of_Latter-day_Saints) . Archived from the original (https://abn.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/manual/endowed-from-on-high/lesson-5?lang=eng) on 16 December 2021 . Retrieved 16 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Why Symbols?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20211216211159/https://abn.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/ensign/2007/02/why-symbols?lang=eng) . Ensign . The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (/wiki/The_Church_of_Jesus_Christ_of_Latter-day_Saints) . February 2007. Archived from the original (https://abn.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/ensign/2007/02/why-symbols?lang=eng) on 16 December 2021 . Retrieved 16 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "27. Temple Ordinances for the Living" (https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/manual/general-handbook/27-temple-ordinances-for-the-living?lang=eng#title_number25) . General Handbook: Serving in The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints . The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (/wiki/The_Church_of_Jesus_Christ_of_Latter-day_Saints) . Retrieved 20 September 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Designer Wedding Dresses (https://shirgindi.com/) ^ (#cite_ref-Goldstein_15-0) Goldstein, Katherine (17 May 2012). "Say Yes to a Different Dress: Down with the strapless wedding gown" (http://www.slate.com/articles/double_x/doublex/2012/05/strapless_wedding_gowns_they_re_unflattering_why_are_they_so_popular_section_doublex.html) . Slate . Retrieved 29 May 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Allison, Christine (1996). Kurdish Culture and Identity . Bloomsbury Academic. p. 154. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781856493291 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Russel, Jan (November 2007). They Lived to Tell the Tale . Lyons Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781599216393 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Smothers Bruni, Mary Ann (1995). Journey Through Kurdistan . Texas Memorial Museum. p. 57. ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Hopi traditions reinforce sacredness of marriage - The Times-Independent" (https://www.moabtimes.com/articles/hopi-traditions-reinforce-sacredness-of-marriage/) . The Times-Independent - The Times-Independent . 2010-06-17 . Retrieved 2022-06-14 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Wedding dress . Fashion Plates of Wedding Dresses from 1820-1929 (http://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/cdm/search/collection/p15324coll12/searchterm/wedding/field/title/mode/all/conn/and/order/nosort/page/4) from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries Wedding Dresses at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections (http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/cdm/search/collection/p16029coll3/searchterm/wedding%20dress*/field/subjec/mode/all/conn/and/order/title/page/1) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120729235620/http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/cdm/search/collection/p16029coll3/searchterm/wedding%20dress*/field/subjec/mode/all/conn/and/order/title/page/1) 2012-07-29 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Wedding dress, 1900, in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database (https://statenisland.pastperfectonline.com/webobject/8F273460-28B0-4155-ADC7-196403668592) Wedding dress, 1951, in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database (https://statenisland.pastperfectonline.com/webobject/BDD6D520-E3F8-4C30-AFE6-535900831247) v t e Wedding dresses worn at British (/wiki/British_royal_family) royal weddings (/wiki/List_of_royal_weddings) 19th century Princess Charlotte of Wales (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Charlotte_of_Wales) (1816) Queen Victoria (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Queen_Victoria) (1840) Victoria, Princess Royal (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Victoria,_Princess_Royal) (1858) Princess Alice (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Alice_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1862) Princess Alexandra of Denmark (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Alexandra_of_Denmark) (1863) Princess Helena (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Helena_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1866) Princess Louise (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Louise_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1871) Princess Louise Margaret of Prussia (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Louise_Margaret_of_Prussia) (1879) Princess Helen of Waldeck and Pyrmont (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Helen_of_Waldeck_and_Pyrmont) (1882) Princess Beatrice (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Beatrice_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1885) Princess Louise of Wales (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Louise_of_Wales) (1889) Princess Marie Louise of Schleswig-Holstein (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Marie_Louise_of_Schleswig-Holstein) (1891) Princess Victoria Mary of Teck (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Victoria_Mary_of_Teck) (1893) Princess Maud of Wales (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Maud_of_Wales) (1896) 20th century Princess Alice of Albany (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Alice_of_Albany) (1904) Princess Margaret of Connaught (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Margaret_of_Connaught) (1905) Princess Alexandra (/wiki/Princess_Alexandra,_2nd_Duchess_of_Fife#Marriage) (1913) Princess Patricia of Connaught (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Patricia_of_Connaught) (1919) Princess Mary (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Mary_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1922) Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Lady_Elizabeth_Bowes-Lyon) (1923) Princess Maud (/wiki/Maud_Carnegie,_Countess_of_Southesk#Marriage) (1923) Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Marina_of_Greece_and_Denmark) (1934) Lady Alice Montagu Douglas Scott (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Lady_Alice_Montagu_Douglas_Scott) (1935) Wallis Warfield (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Wallis_Warfield) (1937) Princess Elizabeth (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Elizabeth_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1947) Princess Margaret (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Margaret_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1960) Katharine Worsley (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Katharine_Worsley) (1961) Princess Alexandra of Kent (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Alexandra_of_Kent) (1963) Birgitte van Deurs Henriksen (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Birgitte_van_Deurs_Henriksen) (1972) Princess Anne (/wiki/Wedding_dresses_of_Princess_Anne_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1973) Baroness Marie Christine von Reibnitz (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Baroness_Marie_Christine_von_Reibnitz) (1978) Lady Diana Spencer (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Lady_Diana_Spencer) (1981) Sarah Ferguson (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Sarah_Ferguson) (1986) Anne, Princess Royal (/wiki/Wedding_dresses_of_Princess_Anne_of_the_United_Kingdom) (1992) Sophie Rhys-Jones (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Sophie_Rhys-Jones) (1999) 21st century Camilla Parker Bowles (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Camilla_Parker_Bowles) (2005) Catherine Middleton (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Catherine_Middleton) (2011) Meghan Markle (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Meghan_Markle) (2018) Princess Eugenie of York (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Eugenie_of_York) (2018) Princess Beatrice of York (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Princess_Beatrice_of_York) (2020) v t e Weddings (/wiki/Wedding) Collective (/wiki/Collective_wedding) Elopement (/wiki/Elopement) Handfasting (/wiki/Handfasting) Same-sex (/wiki/Same-sex_marriage) White (/wiki/White_wedding) Pre-wedding Marriage proposal planner (/wiki/Marriage_proposal_planner) Marriage proposal (/wiki/Marriage_proposal) Engagement (/wiki/Engagement) Banns of marriage (/wiki/Banns_of_marriage) Wedding planner (/wiki/Wedding_planner) Bridal registry (/wiki/Bridal_registry) Bridal shower (/wiki/Bridal_shower) Engagement party (/wiki/Engagement_party) Wedding invitation (/wiki/Wedding_invitation) Bachelor party (/wiki/Bachelor_party) Bachelorette party (/wiki/Bachelorette_party) Stag and doe party (/wiki/Stag_and_doe) Marriage license (/wiki/Marriage_license) Rehearsal dinner (/wiki/Rehearsal_dinner) Locations Wedding chapel (/wiki/Wedding_chapel) Gretna Green (/wiki/Gretna_Green#Marriage) Las Vegas (/wiki/Las_Vegas_weddings) Clothing Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Suit (/wiki/Suit) Wedding dress Contemporary (/wiki/Contemporary_Western_wedding_dress) Bridal crown (/wiki/Bridal_crown) Dress (/wiki/Dress) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Debutante (/wiki/D%C3%A9butante_dress) Opera gloves (/wiki/Opera_gloves) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Garters (/wiki/Garter_(stockings)) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) Objects Chuppah (/wiki/Chuppah) Las arras (/wiki/Las_arras) Lebes Gamikos (/wiki/Lebes_Gamikos) Wedding cord (/wiki/Wedding_cord) Wedding favors (/wiki/Wedding_favors) Wedding mandap (/wiki/Wedding_mandap) Wedding ring cushion (/wiki/Wedding_ring_cushion) Wishing well (/wiki/Wishing_well_(wedding)) Participants (/wiki/List_of_wedding_ceremony_participants) Bride (/wiki/Bride) child bride (/wiki/List_of_child_brides) Bridegroom (/wiki/Bridegroom) child bridegroom (/wiki/List_of_child_bridegrooms) Bridesmaid (/wiki/Bridesmaid) Bridesman (/wiki/Bridesman) Flower girl (/wiki/Flower_girl) Groomsman (/wiki/Groomsman) Page boy (/wiki/Page_boy_(wedding_attendant)) Officiant (/wiki/Marriage_officiant) Traditions Ahesta Bero (/wiki/Ahesta_Bero) Bedding ceremony (/wiki/Bedding_ceremony) Bridal Chorus (/wiki/Bridal_Chorus) First dance (/wiki/First_dance) "Indian" Wedding Blessing (/wiki/Indian_Wedding_Blessing) Jumping the broom (/wiki/Jumping_the_broom) Lychgate (/wiki/Lychgate#Use_at_weddings) Money dance (/wiki/Money_dance) Music (/wiki/Wedding_music) Polterabend (/wiki/Polterabend) Pounded rice ritual (/wiki/Pounded_rice_ritual) Pyebaek (/wiki/Pyebaek) Trash the dress (/wiki/Trash_the_dress) Unity candle (/wiki/Unity_candle) Walima (/wiki/Walima) Wedding March (/wiki/Wedding_March_(Mendelssohn)) Wedding photography (/wiki/Wedding_photography) Wedding reception (/wiki/Wedding_reception) Wedding videography (/wiki/Wedding_videography) Food and drink Wedding breakfast (/wiki/Wedding_breakfast) Wedding cake (/wiki/Wedding_cake) Wedding cake topper (/wiki/Wedding_cake_topper) Cookie table (/wiki/Cookie_table) Groom's cake (/wiki/Groom%27s_cake) Hochzeitssuppe (/wiki/Hochzeitssuppe) Jordan almonds (/wiki/Jordan_almonds) Kolach (bread) (/wiki/Kolach_(bread)) Korovai (/wiki/Korovai) Loving cup (/wiki/Loving_cup) Place card (/wiki/Place_card) By religion or culture Anand Karaj (Sikh) (/wiki/Anand_Karaj) Arab (/wiki/Arab_wedding) Ayie (/wiki/Ayie) Ayyavazhi (/wiki/Ayyavazhi_wedding) Bengali Hindu (/wiki/Bengali_Hindu_wedding) Bengali Muslim (/wiki/Bengali_Muslim_wedding) Brunei Malay (/wiki/Brunei_Malay_wedding) Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_marriage) Pre-wedding customs (/wiki/Chinese_pre-wedding_customs) Catholic (/wiki/Marriage_in_the_Catholic_Church) Hajong (/wiki/Hajong_marriage) Hindu (/wiki/Hindu_wedding) Islamic (/wiki/Islamic_marital_practices) Iyer (/wiki/Iyer_wedding) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_wedding) Mandaean (/wiki/Qabin) Mormon (/wiki/Mormon_wedding) Odia (/wiki/Odia_Hindu_wedding) Persian (/wiki/Persian_wedding) Poruwa ceremony (/wiki/Poruwa_ceremony) Punjabi (/wiki/Punjabi_wedding_traditions) Quaker (/wiki/Quaker_wedding) Saint Thomas Christian (/wiki/Nasrani_wedding) Shinto (/wiki/Shinto_wedding) Timorese (/wiki/Timorese_wedding_traditions) Vőfély (Hungary) (/wiki/V%C5%91f%C3%A9ly) Zoroastrian (/wiki/Zoroastrian_wedding) By country (/wiki/Wedding_customs_by_country) Ethiopia (/wiki/Wedding_customs_in_Ethiopia) Vőfély (Hungary) (/wiki/V%C5%91f%C3%A9ly) Iceland (/wiki/Icelandic_weddings) India (/wiki/Weddings_in_India) Myanmar (Burma) (/wiki/Weddings_in_Myanmar) Pakistan (/wiki/Marriage_in_Pakistan) Philippines (/wiki/Marriage_and_wedding_customs_in_the_Philippines) Russia (/wiki/Russian_wedding_traditions) Sri Lanka (/wiki/Poruwa_ceremony) Ukraine (/wiki/Ukrainian_wedding_traditions) United States and Canada (/wiki/Weddings_in_the_United_States_and_Canada) United Kingdom England and Wales (/wiki/Marriage_in_England_and_Wales) Scotland (/wiki/Marriage_in_Scotland) history (/wiki/History_of_marriage_in_Great_Britain_and_Ireland) Vietnam (/wiki/Traditional_Vietnamese_wedding) Honeymoon (/wiki/Honeymoon) Honeymoon registry (/wiki/Honeymoon_registry) Consummation (/wiki/Consummation) Other Black wedding (/wiki/Black_wedding) Elopement (/wiki/Elopement) Maiden and married names (/wiki/Maiden_and_married_names) Marriage vows (/wiki/Marriage_vows) Newlywed (/wiki/Newlywed) Royal weddings (/wiki/List_of_royal_weddings) Self-uniting marriage (/wiki/Self-uniting_marriage) Shotgun wedding (/wiki/Shotgun_wedding) Knobstick wedding (/wiki/Knobstick_wedding) Wedding anniversary (/wiki/Wedding_anniversary) Wedding crashing (/wiki/Wedding_crashing) Wedding vow renewal ceremony (/wiki/Wedding_vow_renewal_ceremony) Womanless wedding (/wiki/Womanless_wedding) v t e Parties (/wiki/Party) and festivals (/wiki/Festival) Sorted by occasions, purposes or attributes Types Wedding (/wiki/Wedding) -related Bachelor party (/wiki/Bachelor_party) Bachelorette party (/wiki/Bachelorette_party) Bridal shower (/wiki/Bridal_shower) Engagement party (/wiki/Engagement_party) Wedding reception (/wiki/Wedding_reception) Eid al-Adha (/wiki/Eid_al-Adha) Eid al-Fitr (/wiki/Eid_al-Fitr) Banquets (/wiki/Banquet) Eid cuisine (/wiki/Eid_cuisine) State banquet (/wiki/State_banquet) Ball (/wiki/Ball_(dance_event)) Debutante ball (/wiki/Debutante_ball) Hunt ball (/wiki/Hunt_ball) Symposium (/wiki/Symposium) House parties (/wiki/House_party) Family reunion (/wiki/Family_reunion) Cocktail party (/wiki/Cocktail_party) Housewarming party (/wiki/Housewarming_party) Sleepover (/wiki/Sleepover) LAN party (/wiki/LAN_party) Political houseparty (/wiki/Political_houseparty) Rent party (/wiki/Rent_party) Public parties Festivals (/wiki/Festival) Holidays (/wiki/Holiday) Spring break (/wiki/Spring_break) Mischief Night (/wiki/Mischief_Night) New Year's Eve (/wiki/New_Year%27s_Eve) Arts festival (/wiki/Arts_festival) Film awards seasons (/wiki/Film_awards_seasons) Religious festival (/wiki/Religious_festival) Christmas (/wiki/Christmas_and_holiday_season) Carnival (/wiki/Carnival) Feasts (/wiki/Calendar_of_saints) Fools (/wiki/Feast_of_Fools) Food festival (/wiki/Food_festival) Harvest festival (/wiki/Harvest_festival) Social season (/wiki/Social_season_(United_Kingdom)) Heortology (/wiki/Heortology) Fairs (/wiki/Fair) World's fair (/wiki/World%27s_fair) State fair (/wiki/State_fair) County fair (/wiki/County_fair) Trade fair (/wiki/Trade_show) Picnic (/wiki/Picnic) Block party (/wiki/Block_party) Subway party (/wiki/Subway_party) Tailgate party (/wiki/Tailgate_party) Anniversary (/wiki/Anniversary) Jubilee (/wiki/Jubilee) Ceremony (/wiki/Ceremony) Children's party (/wiki/Children%27s_party) Baby shower (/wiki/Baby_shower) Class reunion (/wiki/Class_reunion) Costume party (/wiki/Costume_party) Masqerade party (/wiki/Masquerade_ball) Drag party (/wiki/Cross-dressing_ball) Toga party (/wiki/Toga_party) Naked party (/wiki/Naked_party) Crayfish party (/wiki/Crayfish_party) Cuddle party (/wiki/Cuddle_party) Dance party (/wiki/Dance_party) Prom (/wiki/Prom) Homecoming (/wiki/Homecoming) Foam party (/wiki/Foam_party) Hurricane party (/wiki/Hurricane_party) Kitty party (/wiki/Kitty_party) Pamper party (/wiki/Pamper_party) Parade (/wiki/Parade) Marching (/wiki/Marching) Pizza party (/wiki/Pizza_party) Quiet party (/wiki/Quiet_party) Ritual (/wiki/Ritual) Stop light party (/wiki/Stop_light_party) Tea party (/wiki/Tea_party) Clothing Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Suit (/wiki/Suit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) Wedding dress Contemporary (/wiki/Contemporary_Western_wedding_dress) Bridal crown (/wiki/Bridal_crown) Dress (/wiki/Dress) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Debutante (/wiki/D%C3%A9butante_dress) Opera gloves (/wiki/Evening_glove) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Garters (/wiki/Garter) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) Equipment Balloon (/wiki/Balloon) Balloon modelling (/wiki/Balloon_modelling) Confetti (/wiki/Confetti) Cotton candy (/wiki/Cotton_candy) Deely bobber (/wiki/Deely_bobber) Glow stick (/wiki/Glow_stick) Groucho glasses (/wiki/Groucho_glasses) Party hat (/wiki/Party_hat) New Year's glasses (/wiki/New_Year%27s_glasses) Party bus (/wiki/Party_bus) Party horn (/wiki/Party_horn) Party popper (/wiki/Party_popper) Serpentine streamer (/wiki/Serpentine_streamer) Society portal (/wiki/Portal:Society) Media (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Parties) Category (/wiki/Category:Parties) v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck gaiter (/wiki/Neck_gaiter) Necktie (/wiki/Necktie) ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) bolo (/wiki/Bolo_tie) bow (/wiki/Bow_tie) kipper (/wiki/Kipper_tie) school (/wiki/School_tie) stock (/wiki/Stock_tie) Scarf (/wiki/Scarf) Tippet (/wiki/Tippet) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Blouse (/wiki/Blouse) cache-cœur (/wiki/Cache-c%C5%93ur) crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) halterneck (/wiki/Halterneck) tube top (/wiki/Tube_top) Cycling (/wiki/Cycling_jersey) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) Shirt (/wiki/Shirt) dress (/wiki/Dress_shirt) Henley (/wiki/Henley_shirt) polo (/wiki/Polo_shirt) sleeveless (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) T (/wiki/T-shirt) Sweater (/wiki/Sweater) cardigan (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) guernsey (/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing)) hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie) jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) polo neck (/wiki/Polo_neck) shrug (/wiki/Shrug_(clothing)) sweater vest (/wiki/Sweater_vest) twinset (/wiki/Twinset) Waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bondage (/wiki/Bondage_pants) Capri (/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Formal (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Go-to-hell (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) High water (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Lowrise (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym (/wiki/Gym_shorts) hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) running (/wiki/Running_shorts) Slim-fit (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Windpants (/wiki/Windpants) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Suits (/wiki/Suit) and uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) court (/wiki/Court_dress) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) clerical (/wiki/Clerical_clothing) vestment (/wiki/Vestment) School (/wiki/School_uniform) Prison (/wiki/Prison_uniform) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) boilersuit (/wiki/Boilersuit) cleanroom (/wiki/Cleanroom_suit) hazmat (/wiki/Hazmat_suit) space (/wiki/Space_suit) scrubs (/wiki/Scrubs_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) and gowns (/wiki/Gown) Formal, semi- formal, informal Backless (/wiki/Backless_dress) Bouffant gown (/wiki/Bouffant_gown) Coatdress (/wiki/Coatdress) Cocktail (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) little black (/wiki/Little_black_dress) Evening (/wiki/Evening_gown) ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Plain (/wiki/Plain_dress) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_dress) Princess line (/wiki/Princess_line) Strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) Wedding Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_dress) Casual House (/wiki/House_dress) Jumper (/wiki/Jumper_(dress)) Romper suit (/wiki/Romper_suit) Sheath (/wiki/Sheath_dress) Shirtdress (/wiki/Shirtdress) Slip (/wiki/Slip_dress) Sundress (/wiki/Sundress) Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) A-line (/wiki/A-line_(clothing)) Ballerina (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) Denim (/wiki/Denim_skirt) Men's (/wiki/Men%27s_skirts) Miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) Pencil (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_skirt) Rah-rah (/wiki/Rah-rah_skirt) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Skort (/wiki/Skort) Tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_(clothing)) Underwear (/wiki/Underwear) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Top Bra (/wiki/Bra) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Undershirt (/wiki/Undershirt) Bottom Diaper (/wiki/Diaper) Training pants (/wiki/Training_pants) Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Plastic pants (/wiki/Plastic_pants) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Thong (/wiki/Thong) Underpants (/wiki/Underpants) boxer briefs (/wiki/Boxer_briefs) boxer shorts (/wiki/Boxer_shorts) briefs (/wiki/Briefs) Full Bodysuit, adult (/wiki/Bodysuit) Bodysuit, infant (/wiki/Infant_bodysuit) Long underwear (/wiki/Long_underwear) See-through (/wiki/See-through_clothing) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Coats (/wiki/Coat) and outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Overcoats (/wiki/Overcoat) Car (/wiki/Car_coat) Chesterfield (/wiki/Chesterfield_coat) Covert (/wiki/Covert_coat) Duffel (/wiki/Duffel_coat) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) British Warm (/wiki/British_Warm) Guards Coat (/wiki/Guards_Coat) Greca (/wiki/Greca_(clothing)) Over-frock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Riding (/wiki/Riding_coat) shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Trench (/wiki/Trench_coat) Ulster (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) opera (/wiki/Opera_cloak) Paletot (/wiki/Paletot) Pea (/wiki/Pea_coat) Polo (/wiki/Polo_coat) Raincoat (/wiki/Raincoat) Mackintosh (/wiki/Mackintosh) Suit coats Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) rekel (/wiki/Rekel) Mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) Suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) Blazer (/wiki/Blazer) smoking (/wiki/Smoking_jacket) sports (/wiki/Sport_coat) Teba (/wiki/Teba_jacket) Tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) dress (/wiki/White_tie#Dress_coat) morning (/wiki/Morning_dress#Morning_coat) Other Apron (/wiki/Apron) pinafore (/wiki/Pinafore) Blouson (/wiki/Blouson) Cagoule (/wiki/Cagoule) Cape (/wiki/Cape) 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Dutch fashion model Birgit Kos Kos walking the runway for Alexander McQueen in 2018 Born ( 1995-04-13 ) 13 April 1995 (age 29) Dedemsvaart (/wiki/Dedemsvaart) , Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) [3] (#cite_note-Fashionista-3) Nationality Dutch (/wiki/Dutch_people) Occupation Model Years active 2010–present Modeling information Height 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) [1] (#cite_note-thesociety-1) Hair color Light Brown [1] (#cite_note-thesociety-1) Eye color Blue-Green [1] (#cite_note-thesociety-1) Agency The Society Management (/wiki/The_Society_Management) (New York) Elite Model Management (/wiki/Elite_Model_Management) (Paris, Milan, London, Amsterdam, Barcelona, Copenhagen) Model Management (Hamburg) Munich Models (/wiki/Munich_Models) (Munich) [2] (#cite_note-Models.com1-2) Birgit Kos (born April 13, 1995) is a Dutch fashion model. She is known for both her work in fashion (/wiki/Fashion_design) magazines and on the runway (/wiki/Runway_(fashion)) . Early life [ edit ] Kos is Dutch (/wiki/Netherlands) . [4] (#cite_note-VougueNL1-4) Born and raised in Overijssel (/wiki/Overijssel) , Kos now resides in Zürich (/wiki/Z%C3%BCrich) , Switzerland. She says her creative outlet is being active in nature. [5] (#cite_note-H&M-5) Career [ edit ] Kos was first scouted while she was 15 in Amsterdam (/wiki/Amsterdam) by two local modeling agents. [6] (#cite_note-WWD2-6) [7] (#cite_note-TheTimes-7) After meeting with a modeling agency in the Netherlands, Kos was told that her "hips were too big" to obtain a contract with them. [8] (#cite_note-WWD1-8) She entered the 2010 Elite Model Look (/wiki/Elite_Model_Look) competition a year later, where she represented the Netherlands during the world finals and won a contract with Elite Model Management (/wiki/Elite_Model_Management) in Amsterdam. After the competition, she took a few years off to focus on schooling before modeling full-time. [9] (#cite_note-Porter-9) Kos lived in Milan (/wiki/Milan) for two years in a model apartment to develop her career. [10] (#cite_note-Glamour-10) Kos' first magazine cover was for Glamour France (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)#International_editions) ' s January 2016 issue. [8] (#cite_note-WWD1-8) In 2017, Kos worked with notable Peruvian photographer Mario Testino (/wiki/Mario_Testino) . [11] (#cite_note-Goodman-11) Kos has appeared in advertisements for Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) , Miu Miu, Gap Inc. (/wiki/Gap_Inc.) , Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein_(company)) , Lanvin (/wiki/Lanvin_(company)) , Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) , and Massimo Dutti (/wiki/Massimo_Dutti) . [12] (#cite_note-VogueAU-12) [13] (#cite_note-VogueUK1-13) [14] (#cite_note-VogueUK2-14) She and Irish actor Jamie Dornan (/wiki/Jamie_Dornan) co-starred in a Hugo Boss (/wiki/Hugo_Boss) advertising campaign which included a mini-movie in 2018. Kos said, she would like to do more acting as modeling is not the most secure job. [6] (#cite_note-WWD2-6) [10] (#cite_note-Glamour-10) Kos has been on the covers of Vogue Italia (/wiki/Vogue_Italia) , Vogue Brasil , Vogue Japan (/wiki/Vogue_Japan) , Vogue Germany , Vogue Mexico & Latino America (/wiki/Vogue_M%C3%A9xico_y_Latinoam%C3%A9rica) , Vogue Netherlands (/wiki/Vogue_Nederland) , Vogue Russia and Vogue España . [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) Kos appeared alongside Croatian model Faretta (/wiki/Faretta) in the Spring 2019 campaign for Italian label Twinset. [20] (#cite_note-20) Kos is currently ranked as one of Models.com's "Top 50 Models". [21] (#cite_note-Models.com6-21) Runway modeling [ edit ] After signing to Elite Worldwide (/wiki/Elite_Model_Management) in 2014, Kos made her runway debut in Dolce & Gabbana (/wiki/Dolce_%26_Gabbana) 's Alta Moda Fall 2015 show. [22] (#cite_note-VogueUS1-22) In 2016, she exclusively opened Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) 's Spring/Summer 2017 show. [23] (#cite_note-VogueUS2-23) [24] (#cite_note-VogueFR-24) She went on to close Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) and Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) ' Fall/Winter 2017 shows and open Chloé (/wiki/Chlo%C3%A9) 's show of the same season. [3] (#cite_note-Fashionista-3) In the Spring/Summer 2018 season, Kos closed Tory Burch (/wiki/Tory_Burch_(company)) . [25] (#cite_note-VogueUS3-25) In the Fall/Winter 2018 season, Kos closed Blumarine (/wiki/Blufin) and opened Roberto Cavalli (/wiki/Roberto_Cavalli_(company)) . [26] (#cite_note-Models.com2-26) [27] (#cite_note-Models.com3-27) In the Spring/Summer 2019 season, Kos closed Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) and opened Zimmermann (/wiki/Zimmermann_(fashion_label)) . [28] (#cite_note-Models.com4-28) [29] (#cite_note-Models.com5-29) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "Birgit Kos" (https://www.thesocietymanagement.com/women/214-birgit-kos) . The Society Management (/wiki/The_Society_Management) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Models.com1_2-0) "Birgit Kos - Model" (https://models.com/models/birgit-kos) . Models.com . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b Adams, Brittany (March 9, 2017). "17 Breakout Models From the Fall 2017 Shows" (https://fashionista.com/2017/03/new-fashion-models-fall-2017) . Fashionista (/wiki/Fashionista_(website)) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-VougueNL1_4-0) "Supermodel Birgit Kos: 'We hebben voor mijn carrière gekozen' (https://www.vogue.nl/fashion/modellen/a22635500/super-model-birgit-kos-we-hebben-voor-mijn-carriere-gekozen/) " (https://www.vogue.nl/fashion/modellen/a22635500/super-model-birgit-kos-we-hebben-voor-mijn-carriere-gekozen/) . Vogue Nederland (/wiki/Vogue_Nederland) (in Dutch). Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . May 12, 2018 . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-H&M_5-0) "Birgit Kos is all about nature, wildlife and cars" (https://www2.hm.com/nl_nl/life/culture/top-model-secrets/birgit-kos-is-all-about-nature--wildlife-and-cars.html) . H&M (/wiki/H%26M) . May 18, 2017 . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b Well, Jennifer (August 1, 2018). "Jamie Dornan and Birgit Kos to Front Boss The Scent" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/jamie-dornan-birgit-kos-front-boss-the-scent-1202767992/) . Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0043-7581 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0043-7581) . Retrieved June 3, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-TheTimes_7-0) Britten, Fleur (September 16, 2018). "Interview: meet Birgit Kos, the Dutch supermodel whose star is on the rise" (https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/interview-meet-birgit-kos-the-dutch-supermodel-whose-star-is-on-the-rise-2cj5p29pp) . The Sunday Times (/wiki/The_Sunday_Times) . News UK (/wiki/News_UK) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0140-0460 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0140-0460) . Retrieved February 17, 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b Garced, Kristi (June 8, 2016). "Model Call: Birgit Kos" (https://wwd.com/eye/people/model-call-birgit-kos-society-management10438088-10438088/) . Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0043-7581 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0043-7581) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Porter_9-0) Meet the model: Birgit Kos (November 23, 2019). "Meet the model: Birgit Kos" (https://www.net-a-porter.com/porter/article-33cdba4d34b029c1/fashion/art-of-style) . Porter (/wiki/Porter_(magazine)) . YOOX Net-a-Porter Group (/wiki/YOOX_Net-a-Porter_Group) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b Winter, Lottie (October 1, 2018). "A top runway model has revealed what it's really like working with Jamie Dornan" (https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/birgit-koss-hugo-boss-interview) . Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) UK . Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Goodman_11-0) Goodman, Tonne (April 16, 2019). Tonne Goodman: Point of View . New York, NY: Abrams Books (/wiki/Abrams_Books) . p. 360. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1419734588 . Retrieved June 2, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-VogueAU_12-0) "The new supers: meet the models of the moment that aren't Kendall or Gigi" (https://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/trends/the-new-supers-meet-the-models-of-the-moment-that-arent-kendall-or-gigi/image-gallery/46c3790167aa3e71dc7f4abfab82af6b) . Vogue Australia (/wiki/Vogue_Australia) . February 16, 2017 . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-VogueUK1_13-0) Niven-Phillips, Lisa (October 18, 2018). "Beauty Diary: Getting Ready With Birgit Kos" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/birgit-kos-beauty-diary) . Vogue UK (/wiki/Vogue_(British_magazine)) . Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-VogueUK2_14-0) "Massimo Dutti Serves Up The Perfect Summer Capsule Wardrobe" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/massimo-dutti-limited-edition-2019-collection) . Vogue UK (/wiki/Vogue_(British_magazine)) . Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . May 8, 2019 . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Vogue Italia April 2018: Girls next door" (https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/cover-fashion-stories/2018/04/06/vogue-italia-april-2018-girls-next-door/) . Vogue.it . April 6, 2018 . Retrieved June 3, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Christiane Arp: Au revoir, Karl Lagerfeld!" (https://www.vogue.de/mode/artikel/christiane-arp-au-revoir-karl-lagerfeld) . Vogue Germany (in German) . Retrieved June 3, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Swerink, Door Karin (August 6, 2017). "Vogue Nederland lanceert het september nummer met drie covers en de drie Nederlandse supermodellen van nu" (https://www.vogue.nl/magazine/a22634782/vogue-nederland-lanceert-het-september-nummer-met-drie-covers-en-de-drie-nederlandse-supermodellen-van-nu/) . Vogue (in Dutch) . Retrieved June 3, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Vogue marzo o el retorno de la moda feliz" (https://www.vogue.es/moda/news/articulos/vogue-marzo-2019-portada/39130) . Vogue España (in European Spanish) . Retrieved June 3, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "BIRGIT KOS GETS GLAM IN THE SPRING COLLECTIONS FOR VOGUE RUSSIA" (https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/editorial/birgit-kos-vogue-russia-cover/) . Fashion Gone Rogue . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "BIRGIT KOS & FARETTA POSE IN MILAN FOR TWINSET SPRING 2019 CAMPAIGN" (https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/twinset-spring-2019-campaign/) . Fashion Gone Rogue . February 5, 2019 . Retrieved June 5, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Models.com6_21-0) "Top 50 Models" (https://models.com/rankings/ui/Top50/22849#22849) . Models.com . From major advertising (Miu Miu, Giorgio Armani, GAP) and killer editorial (i-D, W, Vogue Germany, Vogue, Japan, Love) to a bumper show season, there's little escaping this Dutch delight right now. So modern and yet so classic, Birgit's timeless beauty is having a moment. ^ (#cite_ref-VogueUS1_22-0) Blanks, Tim (July 12, 2015). "Alta Moda Comes Alive" (https://www.vogue.com/article/dolce-gabbana-alta-moda-fall-2015) . Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-VogueUS2_23-0) Okwodu, Janelle (October 5, 2016). "Miu Miu's Models Ended Paris Fashion Week With a Bang" (https://www.vogue.com/article/miu-miu-spring-2017-models-gigi-hadid) . Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-VogueFR_24-0) Jiang, Edwin (November 29, 2017). "The 10 breakout models of 2017" (https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/top-models/story/the-10-breakout-models-of-2017/500) . Vogue Paris (/wiki/Vogue_Paris) . Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-VogueUS3_25-0) Phelps, Nicole (September 8, 2017). "Spring 2018 Ready-To-Wear Tory Burch" (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/tory-burch) . Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . Retrieved April 4, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Models.com2_26-0) "Blumarine F/W 18 Show (Blumarine)" (https://models.com/work/blumarine-blumarine-fw-18-show) . Models.com . Retrieved March 9, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Models.com3_27-0) "Roberto Cavalli F/W 18 Show (Roberto Cavalli)" (https://models.com/work/roberto-cavalli-roberto-cavalli-fw-18-show) . Models.com . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Models.com4_28-0) "Hermès S/S 19 Show (Hermès)" (https://models.com/work/herms-herms-ss-19-show) . Models.com . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Models.com5_29-0) "Zimmermann S/S 19 Show (Zimmermann)" (https://models.com/work/zimmermann-zimmermann-ss-19-show) . Models.com . Retrieved May 31, 2019 . External links [ edit ] Birgit Kos (https://models.com/models/birgit-kos) at Models.com NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐967764f4‐f4kpj Cached time: 20240630141828 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 1.051 seconds Real time usage: 1.301 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3177/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 61025/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 4500/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 112916/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.687/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 9775786/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 1220.440 1 -total 46.65% 569.314 1 Template:Reflist 37.33% 455.575 1 Template:Infobox_model 28.94% 353.248 16 Template:Cite_web 9.69% 118.234 11 Template:Cite_magazine 9.34% 113.951 1 Template:Short_description 7.24% 88.329 1 Template:Infobox 6.37% 77.717 1 Template:Flatlist 5.71% 69.732 2 Template:Pagetype 4.83% 58.943 1 Template:Use_mdy_dates Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:58989380-0!canonical and timestamp 20240630141828 and revision id 1216287553. 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American fashion designer (1943–2023) John Wesley Haggins Jr. (September 5, 1943 – June 15, 2023) was an American fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) , cabaret (/wiki/Cabaret) performer, and travel journalist (/wiki/Travel_journalist) . He was one of the first major black (/wiki/African_Americans) designers in the United States (/wiki/United_States) . [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Green, Penelope (2 July 2023). "Jon Haggins, Designer Who Slipped into and Out of Fashion, Dies at 79" (https://www.nytimes.com/2023/07/02/fashion/jon-haggins-dead.html) . The New York Times . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Fashion Designer, Cabaret Performer and Travel Journalist Jon Haggins Dies at 79" (https://wwd.com/eye/people/fashion-designer-cabaret-performer-travel-journalist-jon-haggins-dies-1235702036/) . 21 June 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Jon Haggins Fashion archive" (https://archives.nypl.org/scm/23942) . THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY ARCHIVES & MANUSCRIPTS . The New York Public Library. Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/000000003411252X) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/63365178) National United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n2002028191) This article about an artist from the United States is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jon_Haggins&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐4jcnx Cached time: 20240713003952 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.243 seconds Real time usage: 0.333 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 372/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 12114/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 530/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 19987/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.180/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4240994/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 313.281 1 -total 33.53% 105.049 1 Template:Reflist 31.74% 99.426 1 Template:Authority_control 26.27% 82.293 1 Template:Cite_news 23.81% 74.586 1 Template:Short_description 14.14% 44.291 2 Template:Pagetype 10.07% 31.539 1 Template:US-artist-stub 9.51% 29.805 1 Template:Asbox 5.65% 17.685 3 Template:Main_other 4.98% 15.593 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:74235456-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713003952 and revision id 1218942910. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jon_Haggins&oldid=1218942910 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jon_Haggins&oldid=1218942910) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1943 births (/wiki/Category:1943_births) 2023 deaths (/wiki/Category:2023_deaths) 20th-century African-American people (/wiki/Category:20th-century_African-American_people) 21st-century African-American people (/wiki/Category:21st-century_African-American_people) African-American fashion designers (/wiki/Category:African-American_fashion_designers) American artist stubs (/wiki/Category:American_artist_stubs) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles with ISNI identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_ISNI_identifiers) Articles with VIAF identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_VIAF_identifiers) Articles with LCCN identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_LCCN_identifiers) All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)
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Indian philanthropist (born 1965) This article contains text that is written in a promotional tone (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_soapbox_or_means_of_promotion) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Feroze_Gujral&action=edit) by removing promotional language (/wiki/Wikipedia:Spam) and inappropriate external links (/wiki/Wikipedia:External_links#Advertising_and_conflicts_of_interest) , and by adding encyclopedic text written from a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . ( May 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Feroze Gujral Born Feroze Ewari 1965 (age 58–59) Hyderabad, India (/wiki/Hyderabad,_India) Spouse Mohit Gujral Children Armaan Gujral, Alaiia Gujral Relatives Satish Gujral (/wiki/Satish_Gujral) (father-in-law) Website gujralfoundation (http://gujralfoundation.org/) .org (http://gujralfoundation.org/) Feroze Gujral is an Indian philanthropist, patron of the arts, businesswoman, columnist, media personality and former model. [1] (#cite_note-gujralfoundation.org-1) Early life and family [ edit ] Feroze was born in Hyderabad, India in 1965. Her mother Viqar is of half- Hyderabadi (/wiki/Hyderabadis) and half-British descent, while her father George Ewari is of half-Arab and half- Malayali (/wiki/Malayali_people) descent. [2] (#cite_note-2) She did her schooling from The Lawrence School, Sanawar (/wiki/The_Lawrence_School,_Sanawar) in Himachal Pradesh (/wiki/Himachal_Pradesh) . [3] (#cite_note-3) She has two siblings: brother Hanut Ewari, a philatelist, and a sister Anisha. [4] (#cite_note-4) She is married to Mohit Gujral, the son of Indian artist Satish Gujral (/wiki/Satish_Gujral) (the brother of former prime minister I. K. Gujral (/wiki/I._K._Gujral) ) and has two children with him; Armaan Gujral, a businessman and Alaiia Gujral, an artist. [5] (#cite_note-5) Career [ edit ] Feroze Gujral was spotted by Vidyun Singh and Asha Kocchar of Media Makers. One of the first ads she did was for Digjam Suitings with Shekhar Kapur (/wiki/Shekhar_Kapur) . She was a popular model during the 1990s. The Gujral Foundation and Outset India [ edit ] She is the founder and director of The Gujral Foundation, a non-profit trust set up in 2008, along with her husband Mohit Gujral ( the son of the renowned Indian modern artist Satish Gujral (/wiki/Satish_Gujral) ). [1] (#cite_note-gujralfoundation.org-1) She is also the founder and director of Outset India, the Indian chapter of the Outset Contemporary Art Fund, [6] (#cite_note-6) which is the largest acquisition art fund in the world, present in 9 countries, established in 2011. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) Over the last decade, the Gujral Foundation has supported 150+ artists and 50+ exhibitions in India and internationally. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) Key projects include My East is Your West - a collateral event at the 56th Venice Biennale, curated by Feroze, produced and presented by the Foundation. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) The foundation has also commissioned projects for Contour Biennale 8, the 11th Shanghai Biennale, the 8th Berlin Biennale, the London Design Biennale and Kochi-Muziris Biennale. [1] (#cite_note-gujralfoundation.org-1) Most recently the first architectural pavilion titled ‘The Song of the Earth and the Sky’ was displayed in the gardens of Sunder Nursery, New Delhi. [9] (#cite_note-9) They have supported numerous projects by other organizations including ‘V. S. Gaitonde at The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, [10] (#cite_note-10) ‘Forgotten Masters: Indian Painting for the East India Company’ [11] (#cite_note-11) at The Wallace Collection in the UK, [12] (#cite_note-12) Colomboscope – Sea Change in Sri Lanka etc. [13] (#cite_note-13) The Foundation has strong educational institutional partnerships with CEPT University (/wiki/CEPT_University) [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) and Shiv Nadar University, [14] (#cite_note-:2-14) National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) as well as other cultural institutions including Goethe-Institut, The Foundation for Indian Contemporary Art, [15] (#cite_note-15) Pro-Helvetia, [16] (#cite_note-soundreasons.in-16) Japan Foundation, [17] (#cite_note-17) Danish Art Foundation [16] (#cite_note-soundreasons.in-16) and The Institute français en Inde. [18] (#cite_note-18) Patronage and philanthropy [ edit ] Feroze Gujral is regarded as one of India’s leading art patrons. She is currently on the Trustee Board of Kochi Muziris Biennale of which she is a Founding Patron. [14] (#cite_note-:2-14) She was previously on the international board of the Guggenheim Museum in New York, the Serpentine Gallery in London, and the advisory board of IGNCA, New Delhi. Feroze has also been a funding patron for several years of artist grants, awards and prizes including the Gujral Foundation Excellence Award at CEPT University, [19] (#cite_note-19) annual prizes at National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT). They also sponsor an art and a soccer prize at Gordonstoun School, UK. Apart from the arts, the Gujral's have had a long-standing history of patronage and a number of initiatives have been started by the family post-partition including a school, orphanage, home for destitute women and the Pushpa Gujral Science City, all in Jalandhar, Punjab. They are also founder supporters of the forum for street children in Hyderabad, which includes a home for destitute boys that was started in 1989 by Feroze's mother. They also support various other NGOs like Nanhi Chaun (girl child), Save the Children and White Ribbon (safe childbirth). Feroze has for many years also been part of the young parliamentarian's initiative for malnutrition. [ citation needed ] Business [ edit ] Feroze Gujral apart from being a very successful, well recognized model and media personality is also a successful businesswoman. Gujral ran a design studio called Fizzaro dealing in fine bone china products and customized table accessories, exporting to multiple countries. [20] (#cite_note-20) She was a founding partner of Broadcast India, the first live broadband streaming platform in India. She was previously the Director of Design Plus, an architecture and design company, founded by her architect and real estate developer husband Mohit Gujral, and is the Founder Director of the international art design consultancy FMG advisors. Ambassador and advisor [ edit ] Feroze was also an ambassador for World Wildlife Fund, with a particular interest in the welfare of the Indian elephant. She is a volunteer for Teach for India and the curator for TEDx Delhi. [21] (#cite_note-21) She has also been brand ambassador and advisor to numerous leading international fashion brands including Burberry, [22] (#cite_note-22) Tod's etc. Media [ edit ] As a contemporary cultural commentator, she has contributed multiple articles to publications including The Indian Express, Financial Chronicle, Deccan Chronicle , Seminar, Vogue, Elle and Condé Nast Traveller amongst others. [23] (#cite_note-23) She [24] (#cite_note-Biographia-24) was also host of her own TV show ‘Tonight with Feroze’. [24] (#cite_note-Biographia-24) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "Gujral Foundation – The Gujral Foundation" (https://gujralfoundation.org/) . Retrieved 7 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Venice Biennale: India-Pakistan art collaboration (https://www.ft.com/content/a2f0a180-ecc2-11e4-a81a-00144feab7de) . 1 May 2015. FT.com (/wiki/FT.com) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Where the hills come alive (https://www.livemint.com/Leisure/7Kr0u2x6AGFVZgA0hKzJMN/Where-the-hills-come-alive.html) . 16 July 2010. livemint.com (/wiki/Livemint.com) ^ (#cite_ref-4) Feroze Gujral: India's very own Peggy Guggenheim? (https://www.thenationalnews.com/arts-culture/art/feroze-gujral-india-s-very-own-peggy-guggenheim-1.846960) . 9 April 2019. The National News (/wiki/The_National_News) . ^ (#cite_ref-5) About (https://www.alaiiagujral.com/about) . alaiiagujral.com ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The Founder" (http://outsetindia.org/the-founder/) . Outset India . Retrieved 7 August 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "The Founder" (http://outsetindia.org/the-founder/) . Outset India . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Biennale Arte 2015 2015 | Biennale Arte 2015 - Eventi Collaterali" (https://www.labiennale.org/en/art/2015/biennale-arte-2015-eventi-collaterali) . La Biennale di Venezia . 23 October 2017 . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "This surprising exhibit in Delhi shows that origami isn't limited to just paper" (https://www.architecturaldigest.in/content/this-surprising-exhibit-in-delhi-shows-that-origami-isnt-limited-to-just-paper) . Architectural Digest India . 23 February 2020 . Retrieved 7 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "V. S. Gaitonde: Painting as Process, Painting as Life" (https://www.guggenheim.org/exhibition/v-s-gaitonde-painting-as-process-painting-as-life-2) . The Guggenheim Museums and Foundation . Retrieved 7 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) H; yl. "Forgotten Masters: Indian Painting for the East India Company – Lecture at the Wallace Collection – Gujral Foundation" (https://web.archive.org/web/20200821021353/https://gujralfoundation.org/forgotten-masters-indian-painting-for-the-east-india-company-lecture-at-the-wallace-collection/) . Archived from the original (https://gujralfoundation.org/forgotten-masters-indian-painting-for-the-east-india-company-lecture-at-the-wallace-collection/) on 21 August 2020 . Retrieved 8 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Twitter https://twitter.com/dalrymplewill/status/1201830894606176256 (https://twitter.com/dalrymplewill/status/1201830894606176256) . Retrieved 8 August 2020 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : Missing or empty |title= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#citation_missing_title) ) ^ (#cite_ref-13) "PARTNERS" (https://www.colomboscope.lk/partners) . Colomboscope . Retrieved 8 August 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b H; yl. "October School | Oct 2018 – Gujral Foundation" (http://gujralfoundation.org/october-school/) . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "3 sentences on the curatorial" (https://www.facebook.com/events/561809383947454/) . facebook.com . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Sound Reasons | Festival | records | Productions | Sound Art | Installations | Performances |" (http://soundreasons.in/festival-14/) . soundreasons.in . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Queen-Size with light designer Jonathan O'Hear" (https://prohelvetia.in/en/queen-size/) . Pro Helvetia India . 11 May 2016 . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Mutations: Indo-French Image Encounters | Alkazi Foundation" (https://alkazifoundation.org/mutations-indo-french-image-encounters/) . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Gujral Foundation Initiates Student Awards for Excellence - News - CEPT" (https://cept.ac.in/news/gujral-foundation-initiates-student-awards-for-excellence) . cept.ac.in . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Maddox, Georgina (15 February 2019). "The catalyst named Feroze Gujral" (https://www.thehindu.com/entertainment/art/the-catalyst-named-feroze-gujral/article26280811.ece) . The Hindu . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0971-751X (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0971-751X) . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Feroze Gujral" (https://www.womenofindiasummit.com/feroze-gujral) . women-of-india-3 . Retrieved 8 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "40 GOING ON 30 - Indian Express" (http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/40-going-on-30/650787/) . archive.indianexpress.com . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "About – Gujral Foundation" (https://gujralfoundation.org/about/) . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Biographia (29 July 2020). "Feroze Gujral Wiki-Biography-Age-Height-Weight-Profile-Info" (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809084450/https://www.biographia.co.in/feroze-gujral/) . Biographia . Archived from the original (https://www.biographia.co.in/feroze-gujral/) on 9 August 2020 . Retrieved 10 August 2020 . At home with art aficionado Feroze Gujral (https://www.architecturaldigest.in/content/feroze-gujral-new-delhi-home/) [1] (https://www.vogue.in/content/feroze-gujral-from-top-model-to-arts-model-patron/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180313154714/https://www.vogue.in/content/feroze-gujral-from-top-model-to-arts-model-patron/) 13 March 2018 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) [2] (https://artinfoindia.com/2017/02/02/the-open-hand/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180313155237/https://artinfoindia.com/2017/02/02/the-open-hand/) 13 March 2018 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) The art of giving! Model Feroze Gujral talks about being an 'art patron' now (https://www.mid-day.com/articles/model-feroze-gujral-art-patron-kochi-muziris-biennale-lifestyle-news/17840176) [3] (https://www.vogue.in/content/6-leading-indian-art-collectors-on-buying-restoring-and-preserving-artworks/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180313154152/https://www.vogue.in/content/6-leading-indian-art-collectors-on-buying-restoring-and-preserving-artworks/) 13 March 2018 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) External links [ edit ] No URL found. Please specify a URL here or add one to Wikidata. 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Clothing component that encircles the waist, especially of a skirt or trousers A waistband A waistband is a strip of material that is either elastic or some other confining fabric that encircles the waist, [1] (#cite_note-1) usually as a component of clothing such as skirts (/wiki/Skirt) , trousers (/wiki/Trousers) , shorts (/wiki/Shorts) , swimsuits (/wiki/Swimsuit) , and undergarments (/wiki/Undergarment) . A waistband can be a complete undergarment (/wiki/Undergarment) , worn to limit expansion of the abdomen, to meet various objectives including to help prevent overeating, to encourage mindful eating, to encourage good posture, or to immediately slim the appearance of the waist (much like a corset, also sometimes called a waist cincher, or girdle (/wiki/Girdle_(undergarment)) ). A waistband can be an outer garment, worn for fashion, or for utility. History [ edit ] Historically, in northern India (/wiki/Northern_India) , waistbands served various purposes including fastening miscellaneous items to oneself, such as knives. [2] (#cite_note-2) In ancient history in the southern Levant (/wiki/Levant) , the waistband could serve as a status symbol (/wiki/Status_symbol) when people would adorn themselves with ornaments attached to their waistbands. [3] (#cite_note-3) In the early 19th century, members of some Taoist (/wiki/Taoist) branches had their waistbands colored as a distinguisher and in order to symbolize their membership of the sect (/wiki/Sect) . [4] (#cite_note-4) In the western world during the 19th century, the contortion of waistbands was less pronounced due to the fashionability of suspenders (/wiki/Suspenders) . [5] (#cite_note-5) Material and culture [ edit ] Among some members of the Yoruba (/wiki/Yoruba_people) , the placement of beads upon their waistbands is an established tradition (/wiki/Tradition) that is believed to enhance and accentuate a women's femininity (/wiki/Femininity) . [6] (#cite_note-6) The dimensions of the waistband serve as a contrivance for streamlining waist measurements. [7] (#cite_note-7) Waistbands are often designed with belt loops in order to allow for variation in case of manufacturer subtleties or weight variation in the wearer. [8] (#cite_note-8) A recent Debenhams (/wiki/Debenhams) survey revealed that the placement of one's waistband by males varies with age, with mid-teen boys placing them the lowest, while it steadily rises until the age of 57. [9] (#cite_note-9) The exposure of the underpant waistband has become a trend among followers of grunge music and hip-hop. [10] (#cite_note-10) In stretchy waistbands, the material can be made of various materials including rubber and latex. [11] (#cite_note-11) In contemporary times, waistbands are more picturesque and scintillating compared to previous designs. [12] (#cite_note-12) In western culture waist bands are now often used to achieve body goals such as to prevent overeating in order to maintain a healthy weight. Unwanted erections [ edit ] Some men use the waistband in order to hide a genital bulge (also known by the informal terms man-bulge [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) or moose-knuckle [15] (#cite_note-15) ) in order to avoid embarrassment. [16] (#cite_note-16) During an erection (/wiki/Erection) , this is done by jutting it upwards beneath the waistband. [17] (#cite_note-17) This approach may on occasion be colloquially and informally referred to by slang (/wiki/Slang) terms such as a waistband tuck , [18] (#cite_note-18) the waistband trick , [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) the uptuck [21] (#cite_note-director_ryan_perry-21) or the tuck , [21] (#cite_note-director_ryan_perry-21) the "6 to midnight" , [22] (#cite_note-22) or the boner tuck . [23] (#cite_note-23) Although such penile concealment is common in many cultures, some analysts have proposed limiting such a sentiment to informal etiquette so it mitigates the possibility of a young male's propensity for genital dysphoria and subsequent gender dysphoria (/wiki/Gender_dysphoria) or body dysmorphia (/wiki/Body_dysmorphia) . [24] (#cite_note-24) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Frank, Herter. "Belt-type side pocket waist adjustment for garments." U.S. Patent No. 3,638,242. 1 Feb. 1972. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Hansen, Kathryn. "The virangana in North Indian history: myth and popular culture." Economic and Political Weekly (1988): WS25-WS33. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Hesse, Rayner W. Jewelrymaking through history: An encyclopedia. Greenwood Publishing Group, 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Li, Xiaobing (2012). China at War: An Encyclopedia: An Encyclopedia . p. 111. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Condra, Jill (2008). The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History: 1801 to the Present . p. 57. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Falola, Toyin (2016). Encyclopedia of the Yoruba . p. 46. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Schroeder, Warren C. "Garment suspension waistband." U.S. Patent No. 4,516,275. 14 May 1985. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Hawkins, Sherry D., and Saundra L. Lennartz. "Pants With A Weight-Distributing Waistband." U.S. Patent Application No. 12/948,333. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Diffin, Elizabeth (2010-01-29). "Men's waistbands have risen and fallen through history" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/8487106.stm) . BBC News (/wiki/BBC_News) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170821210328/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/8487106.stm) from the original on 2017-08-21 . Retrieved 2022-01-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Kimmel, Michael (2014). Cultural Encyclopedia of the Penis . p. 226. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Turkington, Carol (2009). The Encyclopedia of Skin and Skin Disorders, Third Edition . p. 20. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Davenport, Irese. "Pants construction stabilized by integral undergarment." U.S. Patent No. 8,074,298. 13 Dec. 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Harris, Michael. "If Clement isn't fit for caucus, why is he fit to be anyone's MP?" (https://ipolitics.ca/2018/11/08/if-clement-isnt-fit-for-caucus-why-is-he-fit-to-be-anyones-mp/) . Ipolitics (/w/index.php?title=Ipolitics&action=edit&redlink=1) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190417232635/https://ipolitics.ca/2018/11/08/if-clement-isnt-fit-for-caucus-why-is-he-fit-to-be-anyones-mp/) from the original on 17 April 2019 . Retrieved 19 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Bilton, Ross. "Size flatters" (https://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/weekend-australian-magazine/road-test-aussiebum-wonderjock/news-story/ab5c872ca8473d3cebf64e22addb2888) . The Australian . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161110053920/http://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/weekend-australian-magazine/road-test-aussiebum-wonderjock/news-story/ab5c872ca8473d3cebf64e22addb2888) from the original on 10 November 2016 . Retrieved 19 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Schlosser, Bethanee J., and Ginat W. Mirowski. "Approach to the patient with vulvovaginal complaints." Dermatologic therapy 23.5 (2010): 438-448. ^ (#cite_ref-16) "New erection-hiding underwear unveiled" (http://www.health24.com/Medical/Erectile-dysfunction/News/New-erection-hiding-underwear-unveiled-20141112) . Health24. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181126180742/https://www.health24.com/Medical/Erectile-dysfunction/News/New-erection-hiding-underwear-unveiled-20141112) from the original on 2018-11-26 . Retrieved 2022-01-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Boner Blocking Boxers - Underwear Conceals Your Erection" (https://www.esquire.com/lifestyle/sex/news/a36443/boner-blocking-boxers/) . Esquire (/wiki/Esquire_(magazine)) . 2015-07-15. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210225030926/https://www.esquire.com/lifestyle/sex/news/a36443/boner-blocking-boxers/) from the original on 2021-02-25 . Retrieved 2022-01-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "German team hero Mario Gotze wins World Cup, later loses dignity thanks to gross pic | SoraNews24 -Japan News" (http://en.rocketnews24.com/2014/07/15/german-team-hero-mario-gotze-wins-world-cup-later-loses-dignity-thanks-to-gross-pic/) . En.rocketnews24.com. 2014-07-15. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170921055032/http://en.rocketnews24.com/2014/07/15/german-team-hero-mario-gotze-wins-world-cup-later-loses-dignity-thanks-to-gross-pic/) from the original on 2017-09-21 . Retrieved 2022-01-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "19 penis problems every man knows far too well" (https://www.joe.co.uk/life/penis-problems-74944) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180419120450/https://www.joe.co.uk/life/penis-problems-74944) from the original on 2018-04-19 . Retrieved 2017-05-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "13 Things I Wish I Knew About Boners When I Was Younger" (http://www.cosmopolitan.com/sex-love/news/a34019/things-i-wish-i-knew-about-boners-when-i-was-younger/) . Cosmopolitan.com. 2014-12-08. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180619113234/https://www.cosmopolitan.com/sex-love/news/a34019/things-i-wish-i-knew-about-boners-when-i-was-younger/) from the original on 2018-06-19 . Retrieved 2022-01-10 . ^ Jump up to: a b Ryan Perry (2014-11-21). "Man Tries To Conceal Boner With Waistband Technique, Fails Miserably" (https://uproxx.com/viral/waistband-boner-trick-uptuck/) . Uproxx.com. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180108120442/http://uproxx.com/webculture/waistband-boner-trick-uptuck/) from the original on 2018-01-08 . Retrieved 2022-01-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "10 Weird Things About Having An Erection, According To Guys, Because You Can Wiggle It" (https://www.bustle.com/articles/88760-10-weird-things-about-having-an-erection-according-to-guys-because-you-can-wiggle-it) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180108120431/https://www.bustle.com/articles/88760-10-weird-things-about-having-an-erection-according-to-guys-because-you-can-wiggle-it) from the original on 2018-01-08 . Retrieved 2017-05-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "6 Mysterious Reasons Men Always Touch Their Penis" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170721051629/http://www.informationng.com/2016/02/6-mysterious-reasons-men-always-touch-their-penis.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.informationng.com/2016/02/6-mysterious-reasons-men-always-touch-their-penis.html) on 2017-07-21 . Retrieved 2017-05-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) O'Shea, Saoirse Caitlin. "This girl's life: An autoethnography." Organization 25.1 (2018): 3-20. v t e Clothing materials and parts Garment structures Armscye (/wiki/Armscye) Collar (/wiki/Collar_(clothing)) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Collar stays (/wiki/Collar_stays) Detachable collar (/wiki/Detachable_collar) Cuff (/wiki/Cuff) Dart (/wiki/Dart_(sewing)) Facing (/wiki/Facing_(sewing)) Fly (/wiki/Fly_(clothing)) Lapel (/wiki/Lapel) Gore (/wiki/Gore_(segment)) Hem (/wiki/Hem) Lining (/wiki/Lining_(sewing)) Placket (/wiki/Placket) Pleat (/wiki/Pleat) Pocket (/wiki/Pocket) Revers (/wiki/Revers) Ruffle (/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)) Shoulder pad (/wiki/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)) Strap (/wiki/Shoulder_strap) Sleeve (/wiki/Sleeve) Train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) Waistband Yoke (/wiki/Yoke_(clothing)) Textiles (/wiki/Textile) Natural Cotton (/wiki/Cotton) Fur (/wiki/Fur_clothing) Linen (/wiki/Linen) Silk (/wiki/Silk) Wool (/wiki/Wool) Synthetic Artificial leather (/wiki/Artificial_leather) Elastic (/wiki/Elastomer) Nylon (/wiki/Nylon) Polyester (/wiki/Polyester) Rayon (/wiki/Rayon) Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) Animal hides (/wiki/Hide_(skin)) / leather (/wiki/Leather) Calf (/wiki/Calfskin) Deer (/wiki/Buckskin_(leather)) Goat (/wiki/Goatskin_(material)) Kangaroo (/wiki/Kangaroo_leather) Ostrich (/wiki/Ostrich_leather) Seal (/wiki/Sealskin) Sheep (/wiki/Sheepskin) Snake (/wiki/Snakeskin) Stingray (/wiki/Shagreen) Fasteners (/wiki/Fastener) Back closure (/wiki/Back_closure) Belt hook (/wiki/Belt_hook) Buckle (/wiki/Buckle) Button (/wiki/Button) Buttonhole (/wiki/Buttonhole) Frog (/wiki/Frog_(fastening)) Shank (/wiki/Shank_(sewing)) Hook-and-eye (/wiki/Hook-and-eye_closure) Hook-and-loop (/wiki/Hook-and-loop_fastener) Velcro (/wiki/Velcro) Snap (/wiki/Snap_fastener) Zipper (/wiki/Zipper) Seams (/wiki/Seam_(sewing)) Neckline (/wiki/Neckline) Bustline (/wiki/Bustline) Waistline (/wiki/Waistline_(clothing)) Hemline (/wiki/Hemline) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐bfwj4 Cached time: 20240712181552 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.326 seconds Real time usage: 0.412 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1030/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 39848/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 828/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 69885/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.219/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4697308/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 357.936 1 -total 50.80% 181.847 1 Template:Reflist 29.65% 106.114 5 Template:Cite_book 25.64% 91.776 1 Template:Clothing_materials_and_parts 25.60% 91.624 2 Template:Navbox 20.50% 73.388 1 Template:Short_description 11.41% 40.850 2 Template:Pagetype 9.36% 33.515 8 Template:Cite_web 5.59% 20.009 3 Template:Main_other 4.98% 17.832 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:7946819-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712181552 and revision id 1217614305. 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London fashion boutique Hung On You Industry fashion (/wiki/Fashion) Headquarters London, England Key people Michael Rainey (/wiki/Michael_Rainey) Michael English (/wiki/Michael_English_(illustrator)) Products Flowery shirts Kipper ties Hung On You jacket tailored for John Lennon and worn by him during the Beatles Hamburg, Germany Tour, 1966 Hung On You was a London fashion boutique, run by the designer Michael Rainey (/wiki/Michael_Rainey) , particularly known for flowery shirts and kipper ties (/wiki/Kipper_tie) in bold colours. Rainey's customers included the Rolling Stones (/wiki/Rolling_Stones) , The Beatles (/wiki/The_Beatles) , The Kinks (/wiki/The_Kinks) and the actor Terence Stamp (/wiki/Terence_Stamp) . [1] (#cite_note-SFW-1) The shop opened at 22 Cale Street (/wiki/Cale_Street) , London, with a mural by Michael English (/wiki/Michael_English_(illustrator)) . [1] (#cite_note-SFW-1) It later relocated to 430 King's Road (/wiki/King%27s_Road) , Chelsea (/wiki/Chelsea,_London) . Regular customers included Sir Mark Palmer (/wiki/Sir_Mark_Palmer,_5th_Baronet) , and the models from his male modelling agency English Boy . [2] (#cite_note-Times2014-2) Rainey sold the lease to the boutique in 1969 to Tommy Roberts (/wiki/Tommy_Roberts_(designer)) and Trevor Myles (/wiki/Trevor_Myles) , and it became Mr Freedom (/wiki/Mr_Freedom_(fashion)) . [1] (#cite_note-SFW-1) His then wife, Jane Ormsby Gore, in a 2006 interview with the Victoria & Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_%26_Albert_Museum) , said: "Michael made the most gigantic mistake of leaving Cale Street and going onto the King's Road. He felt that it was happening on the King's Road, but it cost a lot of money to move, and people didn't know where we were. It became less successful then. Before it was slightly more slick, with a big jardinière mirrored thing in the middle of the shop. We had got two children by then, and we were seriously into soul seeking and going on fasts and meditating… We left London, sold everything, gave away everything, and went to live in Gozo (/wiki/Gozo) . London times and everything were over." [3] (#cite_note-V&A-3) See also [ edit ] Swinging London (/wiki/Swinging_London) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "Lunch With… Michael Rainey" (http://www.spanishfoodworld.co.uk/lunch-with-michael-rainey/) . Spanish Food World . Retrieved 1 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Times2014_2-0) The New York Times (10 June 2014). The New York Times The Times of the Sixties: The Culture, Politics, and Personalities that Shaped the Decade . Black Dog & Leventhal Publishers. pp. 177–. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-60376-366-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-V&A_3-0) "Interview with Jane Ormsby Gore" (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/jane-ormsby-gore/) . Victoria & Albert Museum . March 2006 . Retrieved 1 June 2014 . 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Bolivian model and beauty pageant titleholder Estefany Rivero Born ( 1996-12-26 ) December 26, 1996 (age 27) Trinidad (/wiki/Trinidad,_Bolivia) , Beni, Bolivia Occupation Model Height 5 ft 10 in (1.78 m) [ citation needed ] Beauty pageant (/wiki/Beauty_pageant) titleholder Title Miss Bolivia 2023 (/wiki/Miss_Bolivia) Hair color Brown Major competition(s) Miss Bolivia 2023 (/wiki/Miss_Bolivia) (Winner) Miss Universe 2023 (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2023) (Unplaced) María Estefany Rivero Giesse (December 26, 1996) is a Bolivian architect, model and beauty pageant titleholder who was crowned Miss Bolivia 2023 (/wiki/Miss_Bolivia) . She represented Bolivia at the Miss Universe 2023 (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2023) [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Biography [ edit ] Estefany Rivero was born in Trinidad (/wiki/Trinidad,_Bolivia) , Beni, Bolivia on 1996. she is an architect and interior decorator. [3] (#cite_note-3) Pageantry [ edit ] Miss Bolivia 2023 [ edit ] She participated in Miss Bolivia 2023, representing Miss Beni, after the contest she was crowned Miss Bolivia 2023. She represented Bolivia at the Miss Universe 2023 (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2023) held in El Salvador (/wiki/El_Salvador) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Estefany Rivero es la Miss Bolivia Universo 2023" (https://www.reduno.com.bo/noticias/estefany-rivero-es-la-miss-bolivia-universo-2023--202371225042) . Red Uno (in Spanish). 2023-07-01 . Retrieved 2023-07-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Beni se lleva la corona del Miss Bolivia 2023" (https://correodelsur.com/sociedad/20230702_beni-se-lleva-la-corona-del-miss-bolivia-2023.html) . Correo del Sur (in Spanish) . Retrieved 2023-07-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "María Estefany Rivero, Miss Beni, es coronada Miss Bolivia Universo 2023" (https://eldeber.com.bo/sociales/maria-estefany-rivero-miss-beni-es-coronada-miss-bolivia-universo-2023_330851) . El Deber (in Spanish). 2023-07-02 . Retrieved 2023-07-02 . Awards and achievements Preceded by María Camila Sanabria Pereyra Miss Bolivia (/wiki/Miss_Bolivia) 2023 Succeeded by Incumbent v t e Miss Universe 2023 (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2023) national titleholders ALB : Endi Demneri (/wiki/Endi_Demneri) AGO : Ana Coimbra (/wiki/Ana_Coimbra) ARG : Yamile Dajud (/wiki/Yamile_Dajud) AUS : Moraya Wilson (/wiki/Moraya_Wilson) BHS : Melissa Ingraham (/wiki/Melissa_Ingraham) BEL : Emilie Vansteenkiste (/wiki/Emilie_Vansteenkiste) BOL : Estefany Rivero BRA : Maria Brechane (/wiki/Maria_Brechane) KHM : Sotima John (/wiki/Sotima_John) CAN : Madison Kvaltin (/wiki/Madison_Kvaltin) CHL : Celeste Viel (/wiki/Celeste_Viel) COL : Camila Avella (/wiki/Camila_Avella) CRC : Lisbeth Valverde (/wiki/Lisbeth_Valverde) CZE : Vanesa Švédová (/wiki/Vanesa_%C5%A0v%C3%A9dov%C3%A1) DNK : Nikoline Hansen (/wiki/Nikoline_Hansen) ECU : Delary Stoffers (/wiki/Delary_Stoffers) EGY : Mohra Tantawy (/wiki/Mohra_Tantawy) SLV : Isabella García-Manzo (/wiki/Isabella_Garc%C3%ADa-Manzo) FIN : Paula Joukanen (/wiki/Paula_Joukanen) FRA : Diane Leyre (/wiki/Diane_Leyre) DEU : Helena Bleicher (/wiki/Helena_Bleicher) GBR : Jessica Page (/wiki/Jessica_Page) GRE : Marielia Zaloumi (/wiki/Marielia_Zaloumi) GTM : Michelle Cohn (/wiki/Michelle_Cohn) HND : Zuheilyn Clemente (/wiki/Zuheilyn_Clemente) ISL : Lilja Pétursdóttir (/wiki/Lilja_P%C3%A9tursd%C3%B3ttir) IND : Shweta Sharda (/wiki/Shweta_Sharda) IDN : Fabiënne Groeneveld (/wiki/Fabi%C3%ABnne_Groeneveld) IRL : Aishah Akorede (/wiki/Aishah_Akorede) ITA : Carmen Panepinto (/wiki/Carmen_Panepinto) JPN : Rio Miyazaki (/wiki/Rio_Miyazaki) LBN : Maya Aboul Hosn (/wiki/Maya_Aboul_Hosn) MEX : Melissa Flores (/wiki/Melissa_Flores) NPL : Jane Dipika Garrett (/wiki/Jane_Dipika_Garrett) NLD : Rikkie Kollé (/wiki/Rikkie_Koll%C3%A9) NIC : Sheynnis Palacios (/wiki/Sheynnis_Palacios) NOR : Julie Tollefsen (/wiki/Julie_Tollefsen) PAK : Erica Robin (/wiki/Erica_Robin) PAN : Natasha Vargas (/wiki/Natasha_Vargas) PAR : Elicena Andrada (/wiki/Elicena_Andrada) PER : Camila Escribens (/wiki/Camila_Escribens) PHL : Michelle Dee (/wiki/Michelle_Dee) POL : Angelika Jurkowianiec (/wiki/Angelika_Jurkowianiec) POR : Marina Machete (/wiki/Marina_Machete) PUR : Karla Guilfú (/wiki/Karla_Guilf%C3%BA) RUS : Margarita Golubeva (/wiki/Margarita_Golubeva) SGP : Priyanka Annuncia (/wiki/Priyanka_Annuncia) ZAF : Bryoni Govender (/wiki/Bryoni_Govender) ESP : Athenea Pérez (/wiki/Athenea_P%C3%A9rez) THA : Anntonia Porsild (/wiki/Anntonia_Porsild) TTO : Faith Gillezeau (/wiki/Faith_Gillezeau) UKR : Angelina Usanova (/wiki/Angelina_Usanova) USA : Noelia Voigt (/wiki/Noelia_Voigt) VEN : Diana Silva (/wiki/Diana_Silva_(model)) VNM : Bùi Quỳnh Hoa (/wiki/B%C3%B9i_Qu%E1%BB%B3nh_Hoa) ZWE : Brooke Bruk-Jackson (/wiki/Brooke_Bruk-Jackson) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐4wnhb Cached time: 20240713194918 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.414 seconds Real time usage: 0.557 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2904/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 35794/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 4733/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 26060/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.294/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7188501/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 519.912 1 -total 51.21% 266.231 1 Template:Infobox_pageant_titleholder 19.61% 101.936 1 Template:Reflist 16.95% 88.121 3 Template:Cite_web 12.80% 66.530 1 Template:Short_description 9.41% 48.901 1 Template:Miss_Universe_2023_delegates 9.05% 47.075 1 Template:Navbox 7.80% 40.553 2 Template:Pagetype 6.98% 36.286 1 Template:Infobox 6.92% 35.966 1 Template:Citation_needed Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:74203757-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713194918 and revision id 1186009986. 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( April 2024 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Italian clothing brand Napapijri Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Fashion Founded 1987 ; 37 years ago ( 1987 ) Founder Giuliana Rosset Headquarters Stabio (/wiki/Stabio) , Norway Number of locations 28 (April 2022) Area served EMEA Key people Silvia Onofri (/w/index.php?title=Silvia_Onofri&action=edit&redlink=1) ( President (/wiki/President_(corporate_title)) ) Christopher Raeburn (/wiki/Christopher_Raeburn_(designer)) ( Creative Director (/wiki/Creative_Director) ) Products Apparel, accessories, footwear, outerwear, travel bags Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) VF Corporation (/wiki/VF_Corporation) (2004–present) Website www (http://www.napapijri.com) .napapijri (http://www.napapijri.com) .com (http://www.napapijri.com) Napapijri is a premium lifestyle brand founded in 1987 in Aosta, Italy (/wiki/Aosta) . The brand initially gained recognition as a maker of travel bags, utilising waxed cotton canvas borrowed from military field tents. History [ edit ] Napapijri was established in 1987 by Giuliana Rosset, an Italian entrepreneur from the Aosta Valley region. After acquiring Green Sport Monte Bianco S.p.A - a small backpack company - from a Turin artisan, Rosset relocated the headquarters to Quart, where production began with approximately fifteen employees. The Bering Bag, a waxed canvas duffel bag catering to travelers, marked the debut of the Napapijri brand. In 1990, Napapijri expanded into outerwear with the introduction of the Skidoo Jacket, a lightweight, rain-proof anorak (/wiki/Parka) designed for extreme temperatures. In 1995, the launch of the Rainforest Jacket propelled Napapijri into urban fashion, establishing the brand as an iconic presence in the streetwear world. Throughout the 2000s, the brand diversified its offerings, introducing the Napapijri Kids clothing line in 2002, Napapijri footwear in 2007, and opening its first store in Chamonix, France, in 1997. The U.S.-based clothing manufacturer VF Corporation (/wiki/VF_Corporation) acquired Napapijri in 2004. In 2023 the brand has welcomed Silvia Onofri as its President, [1] (#cite_note-1) and British Designer Christopher Raeburn (/wiki/Christopher_Raeburn_(designer)) as its Creative Director. [2] (#cite_note-2) Brand [ edit ] The name Napapijri is derived from "napapiiri", the Finnish word for Arctic Circle (/wiki/Arctic_Circle) . The logo features the company's name rendered in half-positive and half-negative block letters, symbolising its connection with both outdoor and urban environments. Products [ edit ] Napapijri designs are renowned for their iconic take on outerwear and for their urban appeal. In particular, the brand's role in the transformation of the anorak jacket into a streetwear staple marks its relevance in the history of fashion design. The brand's distinct visual code includes flap pockets, diagonal neck cuts, bold colours, and the careful choice of durable premium materials. The product range extends from coats and jackets to fleeces and sweatshirts, t-shirts, trousers, bags and accessories, and shoes. Collaborations [ edit ] Napapijri has engaged in collaborations with notable figures in the fashion industry. In 2002, the brand collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) on a special edition of its signature Skidoo jacket. Additionally, Japanese designer Yoshinori Ono (/wiki/Yoshinori_Ono_(game_producer)) created a special clothing line for Napapijri in 2010, known as the '66° 33’ Special Project,' referencing the latitude of the Arctic Circle. More recently, Napapijri has collaborated with urban lifestyle brands such as Martine Rose, [3] (#cite_note-3) Patta, [4] (#cite_note-4) Obey, Fiorucci, [5] (#cite_note-5) and Luisa Via Roma. Cultural Exploration [ edit ] Since 1987, Napapijri has been working with photographers, adventurers, environmental advocates & cultural explorers to raise awareness of environmental issues and encourage creative solutions to tomorrow's challenges.  In 2008, the brand partnered with photographer/adventurer Sebastian Copeland for an exhibition titled “Antarctica: The Global Warming” at the Milan store. To this day, Napapijri continues to support expeditions to document endangered environments. In 2023 it has worked with marine advocates and conservation filmmakers Alexandra Johnston and Harriet Murphy to create “Orcas in the Arctic,” a documentary that observes the lives of orcas, their critical role in the Arctic ecosystem, and the challenges they face due to environmental changes and human impact. Environmental Initiatives [ edit ] In 2015/16, Napapijri committed to using no animal fur or down in its products, opting for eco-fur made of synthetic Kanecarbon® fibers and THERMO-FIBRE™ as an innovative insulating filling. In 2019 and 2021, the brand introduced the Circular Series, featuring the world's first 100% recyclable, 100% mono-material jackets, earning Cradle-to-Cradle Gold certification in 2021. The brand is proactively pursuing its sustainability commitment to reach 100% of materials from regenerative and responsibly sourced, renewable, or recycled sources by 2030 through four strategic pillars: circularity, durability, traceability, and better-sourced materials. Stores [ edit ] As of January 2024, the brand is present in 28 countries across Central and Eastern Europe, the Caucasus, and the Middle East. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) WW, FashionNetwork com. "Bally's Onofri appointed Brand President of VF-owned Napapijri" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Bally-s-onofri-appointed-brand-president-of-vf-owned-napapijri,1485401.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 2024-01-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Napapijri Taps Christopher Raeburn as Global Creative Director" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/retail/napapijri-taps-christopher-raeburn-as-global-creative-director/) . The Business of Fashion . 2023-11-15 . Retrieved 2024-01-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Martine Rose & Napapijri Reveal '90s-Inspired FW18 Collection" (https://hypebeast.com/2018/7/martine-rose-napa-fall-winter-2018-lookbook) . Hypebeast . 2018-07-10 . Retrieved 2024-01-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Patta x Napa Is the Antithesis of Silent Streetwear" (https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/patta-napa-capsule-collection-release-information/) . Highsnobiety . 2021-09-22 . Retrieved 2024-01-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Daniel Fletcher Discusses Fiorucci's "Dazzling Discoteca"-Inspired Napapijri Collaboration" (https://hypebeast.com/2022/1/fiorucci-napapijri-collaboration-lookbook-exclusive-first-look-daniel-fletcher-interview) . Hypebeast . 2022-01-20 . Retrieved 2024-01-11 . 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Sara Spencer Washington, from a 1921 publication. Sara Spencer Washington (June 6, 1889 – March 23, 1953) was the founder of Apex News and Hair Company and was honored at the 1939 New York World's Fair (/wiki/1939_New_York_World%27s_Fair) as one of the "Most Distinguished Businesswomen" for her Apex empire of beauty company, schools, and products. Washington gave back to her community, whether founding a nursing home called Apex Rest in Atlantic City, New Jersey (/wiki/Atlantic_City,_New_Jersey) or the Apex Golf Club, one of the first African-American owned golf courses in the nation. Early life [ edit ] Sara Spencer Washington was born in Beckley, West Virginia (/wiki/Beckley,_West_Virginia) on June 6, 1889, to Joshua and Ellen Douglass Phillips. [1] (#cite_note-1) As a girl, she attended public schools in the Beckley area before going to the Lincoln Preparatory School in Philadelphia (/wiki/Philadelphia) , Pennsylvania (/wiki/Pennsylvania) and Norfolk Mission College (/wiki/Norfolk_Mission_College) in Norfolk, Virginia (/wiki/Norfolk,_Virginia) . Before starting her beauty industry, Washington studied advanced chemistry at Columbia University (/wiki/Columbia_University) . [2] (#cite_note-:2-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) In 1905, Washington began her career as a dressmaker (/wiki/Dressmaker) , a profession she continued until 1913. That year, she opened her own small hairdresser (/wiki/Hairdresser) shop in Atlantic City, New Jersey (/wiki/Atlantic_City,_New_Jersey) , despite the fact that her parents wanted her to become a school teacher. [4] (#cite_note-4) [2] (#cite_note-:2-2) Career [ edit ] In 1919, Washington founded the Apex News and Hair Company in Atlantic City, New Jersey (/wiki/Atlantic_City,_New_Jersey) and began her career as a cosmetics entrepreneur. [5] (#cite_note-5) She experimented with a variety of cosmetic products, targeting the market of African American women. While Washington started with a one-room beauty shop, she was able to grow her business into an empire by working in her beauty salon during the day and canvassing for her cosmetic products at night. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) The Apex Beauty Products Company encompassed a variety of products, from pressing oils, hot combs (/wiki/Hot_comb) , and pomades (/wiki/Pomade) for hair to perfumes (/wiki/Perfume) , beauty creams, and lipsticks (/wiki/Lipstick) . Washington recognized the value in the beauty industry and considered it one of the best professions to enter. She is known for saying, "As long as there are women in the world, there will be beauty establishments." [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) Indeed, the demand that Washington recognized surfaced in the United States. The Apex empire included eleven different beauty schools in the United States, with schools in foreign countries that specialized in teaching with her products. It is estimated that Washington's company employed nearly five hundred people in her stores across the nation, in addition to the estimated forty-five thousand sales agents who canvassed Apex beauty products as Washington had in her early days. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) While Washington did not pioneer the beauty industry, she emerged into the beauty market after the world had suffered from World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) and the Great Depression (/wiki/Great_Depression) . She has been celebrated for coining the slogan, "Now is the time to plan your future by learning a depression-proof business." While Washington's company started as a one-room beauty shop, it is estimated to have been worth nearly half-a-million dollars by the mid-1940s. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) Legacy [ edit ] In 1939, Washington was recognized for her company at the 1939 New York World's Fair (/wiki/1939_New_York_World%27s_Fair) . [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) Washington's empire had expanded from the Apex Beauty Products Company to the Apex News and Hair Company, the Apex Publishing Company, which published the Apex News for Washington's estheticians and sales agents, Apex Laboratories which created her cosmetics and products, Apex Drug Company, and Apex Beauty Colleges. [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) Washington's international recognition from her 1939 award enhanced both her business empire and the status of African American women, as her business empire had enabled her to become one of America's first black millionaires. Washington's success enabled her to give back to her community. [8] (#cite_note-8) She contributed twenty acres of farm land as a campsite for African American youth, and gave an endowment of a home for girls, supporting the educational elements of the National Youth Administration program. [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) There is a historical marker in Atlantic City in the neighborhood where Madame Washington lived and operated Apex. [9] (#cite_note-Woodruff-Brooks_2020-9) One of the most successful and long-standing schools was The Apex College of Beauty in Philadelphia, remaining progressive for decades. As of the 1980s, it became the country's oldest black institution of beauty technology. [9] (#cite_note-Woodruff-Brooks_2020-9) See also [ edit ] Year Title 1865 1946 Anthony Overton (/wiki/Anthony_Overton) 1877 1957 Annie Turnbo Malone (/wiki/Annie_Turnbo_Malone) 1867 1919 Madam C. J. Walker (/wiki/Madam_C._J._Walker) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Sarah Spencer Washington" (http://www.acmuseum.org/the-prohibition-era/6/13-madame-washington) . The Atlantic City Experience . Atlantic City Free Public Library . Retrieved 2017-01-19 . ^ Jump up to: a b Kranz, Rachel (2004). African-American Business Leaders and Entrepreneurs . InfoBase Publishing. p. 286. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Hine, Darlene (2005). Washington, Sarah Spencer – Black Women in America . Oxford University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-515677-5 . Retrieved January 26, 2017 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : |website= ignored ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#periodical_ignored) ) ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Profile: Madam Sarah Spencer Washington" (http://www.blackelephants.com/beauty-blog/2014/2/17/profile-madame-sarah-spencer-washington) . Black Elephants . 2014-02-17 . Retrieved 2017-01-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) McKelvey, Wallace (2012-03-23). "Sara Spencer Washington sparked a boom in black hair salons and beauty products" (https://www.pressofatlanticcity.com/features/f4/sara-spencer-washington-sparked-a-boom-in-black-hair-salons/article_9bc4ffda-752b-11e1-a831-001871e3ce6c.html) . Press of Atlantic City . Retrieved 2017-01-19 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Hine, Darlene Clark (2005). Black Women in America . Oxford University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780195156775 . ^ Jump up to: a b Smith, Jessie Carney (2006). Encyclopedia of African American Business Vol. 1 . Greenwood Publishing Group. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Sarah Spencer-Washington | Digital Harlem Blog" (https://digitalharlemblog.wordpress.com/tag/sarah-spencer-washington/) . digitalharlemblog.wordpress.com . 10 September 2010 . Retrieved 2017-01-26 . ^ Jump up to: a b Woodruff-Brooks (2020). Golden Beauty Boss: The Story of Madame Sara Spencer Washington & the Apex Empire. Sunbury Press. 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Find sources: "Jack Rogers" retailer (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Jack+Rogers%22+retailer) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Jack+Rogers%22+retailer+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Jack+Rogers%22+retailer&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Jack+Rogers%22+retailer+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Jack+Rogers%22+retailer) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Jack+Rogers%22+retailer&acc=on&wc=on) ( October 2018 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Jack Rogers Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Founded Palm Beach, FL (/wiki/Palm_Beach,_Florida) , 1960 Headquarters New York, New York (/wiki/New_York_City) , U.S. Area served United States (/wiki/United_States) Products Footwear (/wiki/Footwear) , Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Website www.jackrogersusa.com Jack Rogers is a retail women's footwear company that was founded in 1960 in Palm Beach, Florida (/wiki/Palm_Beach,_Florida) and is now headquartered in New York, New York (/wiki/New_York_City) . [1] (#cite_note-bloomberg.com-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Jack Rogers offers sandals, flats, sneakers, boots, and booties, as well as men’s and kids’ shoes, and accessories. [3] (#cite_note-3) [1] (#cite_note-bloomberg.com-1) Known for its signature sandal, the Classic Jack, this style is characterized by whipstitched leather trim and features an iconic rondelle design. [4] (#cite_note-stylehomepage.com-4) The brands classic line of sandals are commonly referred to as "Jacks" and are available in a range of metallic and bright colored leathers. They can also be in customized in 250+ different color combinations and can be personalized with an embroidered monogram (/wiki/Monogram) . [5] (#cite_note-5) [4] (#cite_note-stylehomepage.com-4) History [ edit ] During a trip to Capri, Italy (/wiki/Capri,_Italy) , Jackie Kennedy came across a pair of flat leather sandals with whipstitched detailing that she loved and decided to bring them back to her local cobbler in Palm Beach, Florida for him to replicate in various colors. [6] (#cite_note-6) [4] (#cite_note-stylehomepage.com-4) From there, the Jack Rogers brand was born. In April 2017, Jack Rogers partnered with Draper James (/wiki/Draper_James) to launch three different styles of the classic Jack Rogers sandal. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) Today, Jack Rogers’ shoes are sold at more than 400 high-end independent retailers and department stores including Nordstrom (/wiki/Nordstrom) , Bergdorf Goodman (/wiki/Bergdorf_Goodman) , Bloomingdales (/wiki/Bloomingdales) , Neiman Marcus (/wiki/Neiman_Marcus) , and Belk (/wiki/Belk) . In addition to its online store, the company currently has three brick and mortar store locations in Atlanta (/wiki/Atlanta) , Charlotte, NC, and New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , its flagship store. [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) [ failed verification ] References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Jack Rogers LLC: Private Company Information - Bloomberg" (https://www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapid=61680488) . www.bloomberg.com . June 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Jack Rogers' Grand Plan" (http://footwearnews.com/2009/business/news/jack-rogers-grand-plan-83101/) . 23 November 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Allen, Rachael (8 December 2016). "How Jackie Kennedy Onassis Inspired Jack Rogers' Iconic Sandal" (http://footwearnews.com/2016/fashion/celebrity-style/jackie-kennedy-onassis-jack-rogers-sandals-283618/) . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Draper James and Jack Rogers collaboration is adorable - Style Home Page" (https://stylehomepage.com/draper-james-and-jack-rogers-collaboration-is-adorable/) . stylehomepage.com . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "East End Goes DOWNTOWN with Jack Rogers Sandals" (https://www.downtownmagazinenyc.com/east-end-fashionistas-step-up-on-the-beach-and-in-the-city-in-jack-rogers-footwear/) . 8 August 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Lo, Danica (2 December 2014). "Did You Know: Jackie Kennedy Is the Reason Those Iconic Jack Rogers Sandals Even Exist" (https://www.glamour.com/story/did-you-know-jackie-kennedy-is) . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Allen, Rachael (25 April 2017). "Reese Witherspoon's Brand Draper James Is Collaborating With This Iconic Sandal Brand" (http://footwearnews.com/2017/fashion/collaborations/reese-witherspoon-brand-draper-james-jack-rogers-sandals-collaboration-341310/) . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Jack Rogers and Draper James Just Launched the Preppy Sandals of Our Dreams" (https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/a9571749/jack-rogers-draper-james-collection/) . Town and Country Magazine . Town and Country Magazine. 27 April 2017 . Retrieved 7 October 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Visit Our Stores" (https://www.jackrogersusa.com/about/visit-us) . www.jackrogersusa.com . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Jack Rogers' Flagship Store Now Open in New York" (http://www.travelandleisure.com/blogs/jack-rogers-flagship-store-now-open-in-new-york) . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Travel + Leisure" (https://plus.google.com/+travelandleisure/posts) . plus.google.com . This website-related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jack_Rogers_(retailer)&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐l6245 Cached time: 20240712174125 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.332 seconds Real time usage: 0.443 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1679/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 38685/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1256/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 48711/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.234/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6397461/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 408.814 1 -total 29.79% 121.769 1 Template:Reflist 27.22% 111.276 1 Template:Infobox_company 25.55% 104.450 11 Template:Cite_web 24.31% 99.376 1 Template:Infobox 18.37% 75.081 2 Template:Ambox 17.81% 72.809 1 Template:UDP 15.44% 63.101 1 Template:Website-stub 14.96% 61.164 1 Template:Asbox 4.20% 17.188 1 Template:More_citations_needed Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:55568590-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712174125 and revision id 1157958402. 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Fashion (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Fashion) Template‑class Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) This template is within the scope of WikiProject Fashion (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Fashion) , a collaborative effort to improve the coverage of Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) on Wikipedia. If you would like to participate, please visit the project page, where you can join the discussion (/wiki/Wikipedia_talk:WikiProject_Fashion) and see a list of open tasks. Fashion Wikipedia:WikiProject Fashion Template:WikiProject Fashion fashion articles Template (/wiki/Category:Template-Class_fashion_articles) This template does not require a rating on Wikipedia's content assessment (/wiki/Wikipedia:Content_assessment) scale. Wouldn't it be interesting to do one template for designers and one for collections ? I'm sure collections links could come in handy at some point. Thiste (/wiki/User:Thiste) 03:06, 13 April 2007 (UTC) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Style.com#c-Thiste-2007-04-13T03:06:00.000Z) [ reply ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"timestamp":"2007-04-13T03:06:00.000Z","author":"Thiste","type":"comment","level":1,"id":"c-Thiste-2007-04-13T03:06:00.000Z","replies":["c-Thiste-2007-04-13T21:41:00.000Z-Thiste-2007-04-13T03:06:00.000Z"]}} Wonderful. Thiste (/wiki/User:Thiste) 21:41, 13 April 2007 (UTC) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Style.com#c-Thiste-2007-04-13T21:41:00.000Z-Thiste-2007-04-13T03:06:00.000Z) [ reply ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"timestamp":"2007-04-13T21:41:00.000Z","author":"Thiste","type":"comment","level":2,"id":"c-Thiste-2007-04-13T21:41:00.000Z-Thiste-2007-04-13T03:06:00.000Z","replies":[]}} NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐7c5d4f547b‐mkx57 Cached time: 20240711071444 Cache expiry: 864000 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] DiscussionTools time usage: 0.008 seconds CPU time usage: 0.143 seconds Real time usage: 0.193 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 121/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 4802/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 8/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 6/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 4867/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.102/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 1446672/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 157.623 1 -total 100.00% 157.623 1 Template:WikiProject_Fashion 3.63% 5.728 1 Template:Pagetype Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:10633463-0!canonical and timestamp 20240711071444 and revision id 122597641. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Template_talk:Style.com&oldid=122597641 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Template_talk:Style.com&oldid=122597641) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Template-Class fashion articles (/wiki/Category:Template-Class_fashion_articles) NA-importance fashion articles (/wiki/Category:NA-importance_fashion_articles) Hidden category: WikiProject banners without banner shells (/wiki/Category:WikiProject_banners_without_banner_shells)
Chinese sportswear/sports equipment company Peak Sport Products Trade name (/wiki/Trade_name) Peak Sport Native name 匹克体育用品有限公司 Romanized (/wiki/Romanization) name Pǐkè Tǐyù Yòngpǐn Yǒuxiàngōngsī Company type Private (/wiki/Private_company) Industry Sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) Founded 1989 ; 35 years ago ( 1989 ) Headquarters Quanzhou (/wiki/Quanzhou) , China (/wiki/China) Products Footwear (/wiki/Sneakers) , sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) Website www (https://www.peaksportshoes.com/) .peaksportshoes (https://www.peaksportshoes.com/) .com (https://www.peaksportshoes.com/) Peak Sport Products Simplified Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) 匹克 Traditional Chinese (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters) 匹克 Transcriptions Standard Mandarin (/wiki/Standard_Chinese) Hanyu Pinyin (/wiki/Hanyu_Pinyin) Pǐkè Peak Sport Products Co., Limited is a Chinese manufacturing company (/wiki/Manufacturing_company) of sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) and footwear (/wiki/Sneakers) based in Quanzhou (/wiki/Quanzhou) . Founded in 1989 as a shoe manufacturer, [1] (#cite_note-1) the company was listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Stock_Exchange) in 2009, however due to low performance on the stock exchange, it had been acquired in August 2017. Basketball (/wiki/Basketball) has been Peak's strongest business since the beginning. Nowadays, the company covers a variety of sports such as association football (/wiki/Association_football) , volleyball (/wiki/Volleyball) , running (/wiki/Running) , tennis (/wiki/Tennis) , and other sports. Peak is developing its business in America, Europe, Asia and Australia with more than 5000 exclusive stores. The company also owns many factories in Asia with 600 employees and more than 6,000 factory workers. [ citation needed ] Business areas [ edit ] This section needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Peak_Sport_Products) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Peak Sport Products" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( July 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Peak Sport designs, develops, manufactures, distributes and markets its sportswear products under the Peak brand. Peak Sport sells all of its products in China on a wholesale (/wiki/Wholesale) basis to distributors who operate, either directly or through third-party retail outlet operators, authorized Peak retail outlets. It also sells its products on a wholesale basis to overseas customers, as well as to overseas distributors who then sell the products to consumers, retailers or sports teams and clubs. In mid-2009, Peak Sport Products Company had a distribution network (/wiki/Distribution_network) of 5,667 authorized Peak retail outlets (/wiki/Retail_outlet) in China, which were operated either by the Peak Sport's distributors or by their third-party retail outlet operators. Peak uses cotton from Xinjiang (/wiki/Xinjiang_cotton_industry) and has pushed back against reports of human rights abuses within the industry. Peak Chief Executive Ren Zhihua has touted Peak's ties with Xinjiang Litai Silk Road Investment, a company accused of using forced labor (/wiki/Forced_labor) , in the face of criticism. [2] (#cite_note-2) Sponsorships [ edit ] This section needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Peak_Sport_Products) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Peak Sport Products" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Peak+Sport+Products%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( July 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Olympic Committees [ edit ] Algeria (/wiki/Algerian_Olympic_Committee) Brazil (/wiki/Brazilian_Olympic_Committee) [3] (#cite_note-3) Cyprus (/wiki/Cyprus_Olympic_Committee) Egypt (/wiki/Egyptian_Olympic_Committee) Iceland (/wiki/National_Olympic_and_Sports_Association_of_Iceland) Iraq (/wiki/National_Olympic_Committee_of_Iraq) Jordan (/wiki/Jordan_Olympic_Committee) Lebanon (/wiki/Lebanese_Olympic_Committee) New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand_Olympic_Committee) Romania (/wiki/Romanian_Olympic_Committee) Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Saudi_Arabian_Olympic_Committee) Slovenia (/wiki/Slovenian_Olympic_Committee) Ukraine (/wiki/National_Olympic_Committee_of_Ukraine) Competitions [ edit ] FIBA Stanković Continental Champions' Cup (/wiki/FIBA_Stankovi%C4%87_Continental_Champions%27_Cup) WTA in Asian Pacific Region WTA Pattaya Open (/wiki/PTT_Pattaya_Open) Associations [ edit ] Peak Sport officially supplies to the following leagues and associations: FIBA Asia (/wiki/FIBA_Asia) LNB (/wiki/Liga_Nacional_de_B%C3%A1squet) PBA (/wiki/Philippine_Basketball_Association) NBA (/wiki/National_Basketball_Association) Basketball [ edit ] National teams [ edit ] Algeria (/wiki/Algeria_national_basketball_team) Cameroon (/wiki/Cameroon_men%27s_national_basketball_team) Central African Republic (/wiki/Central_African_Republic_national_basketball_team) [4] (#cite_note-4) Chad (/wiki/Chad_national_basketball_team) Germany (/wiki/Germany_national_basketball_team) Iran (/wiki/Iran_national_basketball_team) [5] (#cite_note-5) Latvia (/wiki/Latvia_national_basketball_team) Lebanon (/wiki/Lebanon_men%27s_national_basketball_team) Mali (/wiki/Mali_national_basketball_team) New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand_national_basketball_team) [6] (#cite_note-kit1-6) Niger (/wiki/Niger_national_basketball_team) Nigeria Men (/wiki/Nigeria_national_basketball_team) Peru (/wiki/Peru_national_basketball_team) [7] (#cite_note-7) Qatar (/wiki/Qatar_national_basketball_team) Romania (/wiki/Romania_national_basketball_team) Serbia (/wiki/Serbia_national_basketball_team) South Sudan (/wiki/South_Sudan_national_basketball_team) (From 2023) Suriname (/wiki/Suriname_national_basketball_team) Uzbekistan (/wiki/Uzbekistan_national_basketball_team) [8] (#cite_note-8) Clubs [ edit ] Atenas (/wiki/Asociaci%C3%B3n_Deportiva_Atenas) Gimnasia y Esgrima (CR) (/wiki/Gimnasia_y_Esgrima_de_Comodoro_Rivadavia) San Martín (C) (/wiki/Club_San_Mart%C3%ADn_de_Corrientes) Bendigo Spirit (/wiki/Bendigo_Spirit) VOO Wolves Verviers-Pepinster (/wiki/VOO_Wolves_Verviers-Pepinster) Mississauga Power (/wiki/Mississauga_Power) Colo-Colo (/wiki/Colo-Colo) Fos-sur-Mer (/wiki/Fos_Provence_Basket) Élan Béarnais Pau-Lacq-Orthez (/wiki/%C3%89lan_B%C3%A9arnais_Pau-Lacq-Orthez) [9] (#cite_note-9) Fraport Skyliners (/wiki/Skyliners_Frankfurt) [10] (#cite_note-kit2-10) TBB Trier (/wiki/TBB_Trier) PAOK (/wiki/PAOK_BC) Hekmeh (/wiki/Hekmeh_BC) Mouttahed (/wiki/Al_Mouttahed_Tripoli) Tadamon Zouk (/wiki/Tadamon_Zouk) Monaco (/wiki/AS_Monaco_Basket) ZZ Leiden (/wiki/B.S._Leiden) Meralco Bolts (/wiki/Meralco_Bolts) CS Universitatea Cluj-Napoca (/wiki/CS_Universitatea_Cluj-Napoca_(men%27s_basketball)) Nacional (/wiki/Club_Nacional_de_Football) Players [ edit ] Răzvan Berbecaru Codrin Brendea Terrence Romeo (/wiki/Terrence_Romeo) Tony Parker (/wiki/Tony_Parker) (Retired) Miloš Teodosić (/wiki/Milo%C5%A1_Teodosi%C4%87) ( Virtus Bologna (/wiki/Virtus_Bologna) ) Matthew Dellavedova (/wiki/Matthew_Dellavedova) ( Cleveland Cavaliers (/wiki/Cleveland_Cavaliers) ) Beno Udrih (/wiki/Beno_Udrih) ( BC Žalgiris (/wiki/BC_%C5%BDalgiris) ) Andrew Nicholson (/wiki/Andrew_Nicholson_(basketball)) ( Guangdong Southern Tigers (/wiki/Guangdong_Southern_Tigers) ) Lou Williams (/wiki/Lou_Williams) ( Los Angeles Clippers (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Clippers) ) Carl Landry (/wiki/Carl_Landry) ( Jilin Northeast Tigers (/wiki/Jilin_Northeast_Tigers) ) Anthony Morrow (/wiki/Anthony_Morrow) (Free Agent) Miles Plumlee (/wiki/Miles_Plumlee) (Free Agent) Kyle Singler (/wiki/Kyle_Singler) (Free Agent) Andrew Wiggins (/wiki/Andrew_Wiggins) ( Golden State Warriors (/wiki/Golden_State_Warriors) ) Boxing [ edit ] Peak (boxing vest and trunks) was officially worn by the National Brazilian Boxing team during the Saint Petersburg Governor Cup which was held from 7 to 11 May 2019, and the 2020 Summer Olympic Games (/wiki/2020_Summer_Olympic_Games) in Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) . Field hockey [ edit ] National teams [ edit ] Ukraine (/wiki/Ukraine_men%27s_national_field_hockey_team) Football [ edit ] Clubs teams [ edit ] WA Tlemcen (/wiki/WA_Tlemcen) Sani Pro Pudong Zobon (/wiki/Pudong_Zobon) Shenyang Dongjin (/wiki/Shenyang_Dongjin) Uniòn Estepona (/wiki/Uni%C3%B3n_Estepona_CF) Transvaal (/wiki/SV_Transvaal) Hetten FC (/wiki/Hetten_FC) Muscat Club (/wiki/Muscat_Club) Triglav Kranj (/wiki/NK_Triglav_Kranj) Handball [ edit ] Visoko (/wiki/HC_Bosna_Visoko) Swimming [ edit ] National teams [ edit ] Ukraine (/w/index.php?title=Ukraine_national_swimming_team&action=edit&redlink=1) Volleyball [ edit ] National teams [ edit ] Serbia (/wiki/Serbia_men%27s_national_volleyball_team) Romania (/wiki/Romania_men%27s_national_volleyball_team) Players [ edit ] Rachel Anne Daquis (/wiki/Rachel_Anne_Daquis) ( Cignal HD Spikers (/wiki/Cignal_HD_Spikers_(women%27s_team)) ) Chase Budinger (/wiki/Chase_Budinger) Tennis [ edit ] Olga Govortsova (/wiki/Olga_Govortsova) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Historie (https://www.peak-sport.nl/historie/) on Peak.nl website ^ (#cite_ref-2) Lam, Nadia; Lau, Jack (August 2021). "Tokyo Olympics: silence is golden at Games as Western teams keep quiet over suspected use of Xinjiang cotton by Chinese brands" (https://www.scmp.com/sport/china/article/3143389/tokyo-olympics-silence-golden-games-western-teams-keep-quiet-over) . www.scmp.com . South China Morning Post . Retrieved 2 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Esporte, Máquina do (2017-08-02). "Nova no mercado brasileiro, Peak vestirá Time Brasil" (http://maquinadoesporte.uol.com.br/artigo/nova-no-mercado-brasileiro-peak-vestira-time-brasil_32933.html) . Máquina do Esporte (in Brazilian Portuguese) . Retrieved 2018-05-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) 2015 FIBA Africa Championship - CAF (https://web.archive.org/web/20150612120042/http://www.fiba.com/afrobasket/2015/Central-African-Republic#iset=d473ca24-c1fb-4a3b-ab7b-a19b45cbc1eb&iid=cd3510cc-e14f-411f-88ad-3d7f2676e290) , FIBA.com, Retrieved 11 May 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150905074748/http://www.eurobasket2015.org/en/compID_qMRZdYCZI6EoANOrUf9le2.season_2015.roundID_9322.teamID_306.html) 2015-09-05 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , eurobasket2015.org, Retrieved 12 May 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-kit1_6-0) 2015 FIBA Oceania Championship - New Zealand (https://www.fiba.basketball/oceania/2015/New-Zealand) , FIBA.com, Retrieved 30 September 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-7) The Official website of the 2016 South American Championship for Men (https://www.fiba.basketball/sudamericano/2016#iset=6417979b-7f72-441e-a285-240420b0fddf&iid=5e20e24e-92e3-446d-b274-d041b093107c) , FIBA.com, Retrieved 30 June 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-8) IRAN VS UZBEKISTAN ASIAN BASKETBALL CHAMPIONSHIP 2011 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oo9SxQO7HKE) , Youtube.com, Retrieved 8 July 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Pau-Lacq-Orthez FIBA Europe Cup 2017 (https://www.fiba.basketball/europecup/16-17/Pau-Lacq-Orthez#iset=33c3aea3-54a3-48d0-933c-52c42680400b&iid=247a67fe-4399-4ac5-939a-e05c48d5f2c7) , FIBA.com, 18 January 2017. Retrieved 30 March 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-kit2_10-0) Home | FRAPORT SKYLINERS (http://www.fraport-skyliners.de/home/) , fraport-skyliners.de, Retrieved 30 September 2015. 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Peak_Sport_Products&oldid=1233208777 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Peak_Sport_Products&oldid=1233208777) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Sportswear brands (/wiki/Category:Sportswear_brands) Sporting goods manufacturers of China (/wiki/Category:Sporting_goods_manufacturers_of_China) Companies based in Fujian (/wiki/Category:Companies_based_in_Fujian) Companies listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange (/wiki/Category:Companies_listed_on_the_Hong_Kong_Stock_Exchange) Clothing companies of China (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_of_China) Companies established in 1989 (/wiki/Category:Companies_established_in_1989) Shoe companies of China (/wiki/Category:Shoe_companies_of_China) Chinese brands (/wiki/Category:Chinese_brands) Hidden categories: CS1 Brazilian Portuguese-language sources (pt-br) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Brazilian_Portuguese-language_sources_(pt-br)) Webarchive template wayback links (/wiki/Category:Webarchive_template_wayback_links) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles containing Chinese-language text (/wiki/Category:Articles_containing_Chinese-language_text) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from January 2012 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_January_2012) Articles needing additional references from July 2021 (/wiki/Category:Articles_needing_additional_references_from_July_2021) All articles needing additional references (/wiki/Category:All_articles_needing_additional_references)