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Clothing that is worn in the exercise of a service profession, a craft or an engineering profession Workwear is clothing worn for work, especially work that involves manual labour (/wiki/Manual_labour) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Often those employed within trade industries elect to be outfitted in workwear because it is built to provide durability and safety. Locomotive repair crew, 1948. The workwear clothing industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) is growing [2] (#cite_note-2) and consumers have numerous retailers to choose from. Chains that have made a commitment to the $1 billion and rising workwear business report steady 6 percent to 8 percent annual gains in men's workwear. [3] (#cite_note-findarticles.com-3) In the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) , if workwear [4] (#cite_note-4) is provided to an employee without a logo (/wiki/Logo) , it may be subject to income tax (/wiki/Income_tax) being levied on the employee for a " payment in kind (/wiki/In_kind) ." However, if company clothing is provided with logos on then the employee may be entitled to a tax rebate (/wiki/Tax_rebate) to help pay for the upkeep. [5] (#cite_note-5) History [ edit ] Advertisement for overalls, 1920 In Britain from the mid 19th century until the 1970s, dustmen (/wiki/Dustman) , coalmen, and the manual laborers known as navvies (/wiki/Navvies) wore flat caps (/wiki/Flat_cap) , [6] (#cite_note-6) corduroy (/wiki/Corduroy) pants, heavy boots, [7] (#cite_note-7) and donkey jackets (/wiki/Donkey_jacket) , [8] (#cite_note-8) often with a brightly colored cotton neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) to soak up the sweat. Later versions of the donkey jacket came with leather shoulder patches to prevent wear when shouldering a spade or pick. Mill workers in Yorkshire and Lancashire wore a variant of this basic outfit with English clogs (/wiki/English_clog) . [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) The cuffs of the pants were frequently secured with string, and grandad shirts (/wiki/Grandad_shirt) were worn without a collar to decrease the likelihood of being caught in the steam powered machinery. Maritime workwear [ edit ] Australian sailor wearing bell bottoms (/wiki/Bell_bottoms) , ca. 1910 Since the late 18th century, merchant seamen (/wiki/Merchant_navy) and dockworkers have worn denim (/wiki/Denim) flared trousers (/wiki/Flared_trousers) , striped undershirts (/wiki/Undershirt) , knitted roll neck (/wiki/Roll_neck) jumpers, and short blue peacoats (/wiki/Peacoat) . [11] (#cite_note-11) This basic outfit, paired with a thick leather belt, flat cap (/wiki/Flat_cap) and clogs, was also a mark of identification for turn of the century (/wiki/Turn_of_the_century) criminal gangs such as the Scuttlers (/wiki/Scuttlers) . [12] (#cite_note-12) On the more luxurious cruise ships (/wiki/Cruise_ship) and ocean liners (/wiki/Ocean_liner) , deckhands wore neatly pressed dress blues (/wiki/Dress_uniform) similar to those of the Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) and USN (/wiki/USN) , while waiters and cabin stewards (/wiki/Cabin_steward) wore white uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) with a band collar (/wiki/Band_collar) , gilded brass buttons, and a gold stripe on the trouser leg. [ citation needed ] In wet weather, sailors wore oilskins (/wiki/Oilskins) and Souwesters (/wiki/Souwester) , but contemporary fishermen (/wiki/Fishermen) generally wear a two piece yellow or orange waterproof jacket and trousers. Modern updates to the traditional look include polar fleeces (/wiki/Polar_fleece) , hoodies (/wiki/Hoodie) , baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) , and knit caps (/wiki/Knit_cap) . Straw hats, sailor caps (/wiki/Sailor_cap) and tarred waterproof hats are no longer in widespread civilian use, but wool or denim versions of the Greek fisherman's cap (/wiki/Greek_fisherman%27s_cap) remain common. Railroad use [ edit ] In the Old West (/wiki/Old_West) era, Union Pacific (/wiki/Union_Pacific) train engineers (/wiki/Train_engineer) and railroad workers wore distinctive overalls (/wiki/Overalls) , caps and work jackets (/wiki/Work_jacket) made from hickory stripe (/wiki/Hickory_stripe) [13] (#cite_note-13) before boiler suits (/wiki/Boiler_suit) were invented in the early 20th century. [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) Railway conductors (/wiki/Railway_conductor) , porters and station masters (/wiki/Station_master) wore more formal blue uniforms based on the three piece lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) , with brass buttons and a military surplus (/wiki/Military_surplus) kepi (/wiki/Kepi) from the Civil War era (/wiki/M1858_uniform) . In modern times, the striped engineer cap remains part of the uniform of American train drivers. [16] (#cite_note-16) Modern era [ edit ] Logging industry [ edit ] Sugar Pine (/wiki/Madera_Sugar_Pine_Company) lumberjacks in loose fitting, stagged-off pants (/wiki/Cuff#Trouser_cuffs) , suspenders, long-johns, felt hats and caulk boots (/wiki/Caulk_boots) . [17] (#cite_note-Johnston_1997-17) : 102 Since the days of the Old West (/wiki/Old_West) , American and Canadian lumberjacks (/wiki/Lumberjack) have worn buffalo plaid (/wiki/Buffalo_plaid) Pendleton jackets (/wiki/Pendleton_jacket) , wool tuques (/wiki/Tuque) , trapper hats (/wiki/Trapper_hat) , tall waterproof boots with a reinforced toecap, and chaps (/wiki/Chaps) as protection from the chainsaw (/wiki/Chainsaw) . [18] (#cite_note-18) Olive drab versions of the padded wool jacket were issued to US Army (/wiki/US_Army) jeep crews during the war, and plaid Pendletons became popular casual wear in America during the 1950s. [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) Use by truckers [ edit ] Truck driver (/wiki/Truck_driver) wearing mechanic's cap, 1949. From the 1930s onwards, truckers (/wiki/Trucker) and mechanics wore a distinctive outfit comprising mechanic's cap (/wiki/Mechanic%27s_cap) , white T-shirt, bandana (/wiki/Bandana) , boiler suit (/wiki/Boiler_suit) , checked shirt, leather coat (/wiki/Leather_coat) , Pendleton jacket (/wiki/Pendleton_jacket) , double denim (/wiki/Denim) jacket, and blue jeans (/wiki/Blue_jeans) . [21] (#cite_note-21) The skipper cap (/wiki/Skipper_cap) in particular signified the truckers' link with the big seaports (/wiki/Seaports) , from which imported goods were transported all over the country. This look served as the inspiration for the ton-up boy (/wiki/Ton-up_boy) , raggare (/wiki/Raggare) , and greaser subculture (/wiki/Greaser_subculture) during the 1950s (/wiki/1950s_teenage_fashion) and 1960s (/wiki/1960s_fashion) . By the early 1980s, [22] (#cite_note-22) the peaked caps (/wiki/Peaked_cap) had been replaced with foam and mesh baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) known as trucker hats (/wiki/Trucker_hat) or gimme caps, which were originally given to truck drivers by manufacturers such as John Deere (/wiki/John_Deere) , Mountain Dew (/wiki/Mountain_Dew) or Budweiser (/wiki/Budweiser) to advertise their products. [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) 1990s to ongoing [ edit ] In the present day, industrial (/wiki/Industrial_sector) and service industry (/wiki/Service_industry) workwear typically comprises T-shirts or polo shirts (/wiki/Polo_shirt) that are cheap to replace, black or navy polyester and cotton blend (/wiki/Gabardine) pants, steel capped boots (/wiki/Steel_capped_boots) , and for cashiers at large department stores (/wiki/Department_store) like Wal-Mart (/wiki/Wal-Mart) or Aldi (/wiki/Aldi) , a colored waistcoat or tabard (/wiki/Tabard) bearing the company logo. [25] (#cite_note-25) Zip up Polar fleeces (/wiki/Polar_fleece) , originally invented during the 1970s for use by meat packing (/wiki/Meat_packing) plant workers in the large refrigerated units, are also commonly worn by factory workers, barrow boys and stock handlers in colder climates. Inspiration in Fashion [ edit ] The workwear look During the 1980s (/wiki/1980s_in_fashion) , workwear such as the donkey jacket (/wiki/Donkey_jacket) and Doc Martens (/wiki/Doc_Martens) safety boots (/wiki/Safety_boot) were popular street attire for British skinheads (/wiki/Skinhead) , suedeheads (/wiki/Suedeheads) , hardcore punks (/wiki/Hardcore_punk) and football hooligans (/wiki/Football_hooligan) . [26] (#cite_note-26) More recently, Celtic punk (/wiki/Celtic_punk) groups such as Dropkick Murphys (/wiki/Dropkick_Murphys) have adopted aspects of the look such as the flat cap (/wiki/Flat_cap) to assert their working class Irish-American identity. In the 21st century, the style has also made a huge impact on the fashion industry, including segments such as streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) . [27] (#cite_note-27) Workwear has not just become a style of clothes that has been adopted by the hipster subculture (/wiki/Hipster_subculture) , but a culture and way of life in this particular community. Pompadour (/wiki/Pompadour_(hairstyle)) hair cuts, tattoos (/wiki/Tattoo) , denim jackets, military trench coats, lumberjack flannels, chambray shirts, raw denim (/wiki/Denim) , and work boots (/wiki/Boot) take part into this workwear style. [28] (#cite_note-28) See also [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Work clothing (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Work_clothing) . Personal protective equipment (/wiki/Personal_protective_equipment) Dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20060626041531/http://encarta.msn.com/dictionary_1861714096/workwear.html) workwear – Dictionary – MSN Encarta" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060626041531/http://encarta.msn.com/dictionary_1861714096/workwear.html) . Archived from the original (https://encarta.msn.com/dictionary_1861714096/workwear.html) on 2006-06-26 . Retrieved 2006-11-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Workwear sector lines up for growing business" (http://www.just-style.com/analysis/workwear-sector-lines-up-for-growing-business_id95079.aspx) . just-style.com. 2006-09-28 . Retrieved 2011-01-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-findarticles.com_3-0) "Capturing consumers with destination departments – National Industry Report: Work Wear supplement" (http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3092/is_n9_v35/ai_18284451/) . Discount Store News . FindArticles.com. 1996-05-06 . Retrieved 2011-01-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) workwear (https://safesho.com/the-impact-of-work-clothing-design-on-workers-comfort/) ^ (#cite_ref-5) "EIM32450 - Employment Income Manual - HMRC internal manual - GOV.UK" (http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/manuals/eimanual/EIM32450.htm) . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Railway navvies (https://books.google.com/books?id=zWDOCAAAQBAJ&dq=navvy&pg=PP1) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Leisure hour (https://books.google.com/books?id=7PBMAAAAMAAJ&dq=navvy&pg=PA326) ^ (#cite_ref-8) The way we wore (https://books.google.com/books?id=SGD7AwAAQBAJ&dq=donkey%20jacket&pg=PT111) ^ (#cite_ref-9) Tap Roots (https://books.google.com/books?id=g7vtBsF5OH0C&dq=mill%20worker%20clogs&pg=PA15) ^ (#cite_ref-10) Stanleys view (https://books.google.com/books?id=debpAQAAQBAJ&dq=mill%20worker%20clogs&pg=PA24) ^ (#cite_ref-11) Gentleman's gazette (http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/peacoat-guide-history-sizing-buy/) ^ (#cite_ref-12) Scuttlers gang (https://www.bbc.co.uk/manchester/content/articles/2008/10/20/201008_scuttlers_interview_feature.shtml) ^ (#cite_ref-13) Hats and headwear (https://books.google.com/books?id=GdbYAQAAQBAJ&dq=railroad%20engineer%20cap&pg=PA343) ^ (#cite_ref-14) Art of manliness (http://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/04/30/how-to-wear-a-seersucker-suit/) ^ (#cite_ref-15) Hickory stripe (https://nytonashville.wordpress.com/2013/02/25/hickory-stripe-and-an-old-iron-horse/) ^ (#cite_ref-16) Engineer cap (http://www.uprrmuseum.org/curator/engineer-cap.shtml) ^ (#cite_ref-Johnston_1997_17-0) Johnston, Hank (1997). The Whistles Blow No More . Stauffer Publishing. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-87046-067-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) The Lumberjacks (https://books.google.com/books?id=tWosMqKAv1oC&dq=PA230&pg=PA230) ^ (#cite_ref-19) Uniforms of the US Army (https://books.google.com/books?id=X-OMAwAAQBAJ&dq=mackinaw+jacket+us+army&pg=PA193) ^ (#cite_ref-20) "The Plaid Shirt: Rebellion, Grunge and a Touch Flamboyance" (https://gizmodo.com/5889932/the-plaid-shirt-rebellion-grunge-and-a-touch-flamboyance) . Gizmodo (/wiki/Gizmodo) . 2012-03-02. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180917105239/https://gizmodo.com/5889932/the-plaid-shirt-rebellion-grunge-and-a-touch-flamboyance) from the original on 2018-09-17. ^ (#cite_ref-21) Cool American truckers (https://www.thevintagenews.com/2016/08/07/photos-american-truck-drivers-1930s-1940s-2-2/) ^ (#cite_ref-22) The trucker hat (https://www.trucks.com/2016/06/03/trucker-hats-fashion-statement-refuses-die/) ^ (#cite_ref-23) Comeback of trucker hats (http://www.today.com/style/trucker-hats-are-making-huge-comeback-it-s-kind-worst-t84776) ^ (#cite_ref-24) History of the trucker hat (https://etherealtshirts.wordpress.com/2013/03/23/the-history-of-the-humble-trucker-hat/) ^ (#cite_ref-25) Wal mart uniforms cause controversy again (https://www.cnbc.com/2014/09/12/wal-marts-new-uniforms-causing-controversyagain.html) ^ (#cite_ref-26) Patches checks and violence (https://books.google.com/books?id=m9LI0s4aHA4C&dq=donkey%20jacket%20leather%20patch&pg=PA15) ^ (#cite_ref-27) Lakin, Max (21 March 2019). "How The Men's Workwear Trend Took Over The City" (https://www.mrporter.com/en-us/journal/fashion/how-the-mens-workwear-trend-took-over-the-city-872946) . Mr Porter . Retrieved 9 September 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "The Workwear Trend Mens – Fashion Magazine" (http://www.mensfashionmagazine.com/the-workwear-trend) . www.mensfashionmagazine.com . 24 March 2014 . Retrieved 2016-04-08 . v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck gaiter (/wiki/Neck_gaiter) Necktie (/wiki/Necktie) ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) bolo (/wiki/Bolo_tie) bow (/wiki/Bow_tie) kipper (/wiki/Kipper_tie) school (/wiki/School_tie) stock (/wiki/Stock_tie) Scarf (/wiki/Scarf) Tippet (/wiki/Tippet) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Blouse (/wiki/Blouse) cache-cœur (/wiki/Cache-c%C5%93ur) crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) halterneck (/wiki/Halterneck) tube top (/wiki/Tube_top) Cycling (/wiki/Cycling_jersey) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) Shirt (/wiki/Shirt) dress (/wiki/Dress_shirt) Henley (/wiki/Henley_shirt) polo (/wiki/Polo_shirt) sleeveless (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) T (/wiki/T-shirt) Sweater (/wiki/Sweater) cardigan (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) guernsey (/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing)) hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie) jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) polo neck (/wiki/Polo_neck) shrug (/wiki/Shrug_(clothing)) sweater vest (/wiki/Sweater_vest) twinset (/wiki/Twinset) Waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bondage (/wiki/Bondage_pants) Capri (/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Formal (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Go-to-hell (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) High water (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Lowrise (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym (/wiki/Gym_shorts) hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) running (/wiki/Running_shorts) Slim-fit (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Windpants (/wiki/Windpants) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Suits (/wiki/Suit) and uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) court (/wiki/Court_dress) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) clerical (/wiki/Clerical_clothing) vestment (/wiki/Vestment) School (/wiki/School_uniform) Prison (/wiki/Prison_uniform) Workwear boilersuit (/wiki/Boilersuit) cleanroom (/wiki/Cleanroom_suit) hazmat (/wiki/Hazmat_suit) space (/wiki/Space_suit) scrubs (/wiki/Scrubs_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) and gowns (/wiki/Gown) Formal, semi- formal, informal Backless (/wiki/Backless_dress) Bouffant gown (/wiki/Bouffant_gown) Coatdress (/wiki/Coatdress) Cocktail (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) little black (/wiki/Little_black_dress) Evening (/wiki/Evening_gown) ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Plain (/wiki/Plain_dress) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_dress) Princess line (/wiki/Princess_line) Strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) Wedding (/wiki/Wedding_dress) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_dress) Casual House (/wiki/House_dress) Jumper (/wiki/Jumper_(dress)) Romper suit (/wiki/Romper_suit) Sheath (/wiki/Sheath_dress) Shirtdress (/wiki/Shirtdress) Slip (/wiki/Slip_dress) Sundress (/wiki/Sundress) Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) A-line (/wiki/A-line_(clothing)) Ballerina (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) Denim (/wiki/Denim_skirt) Men's (/wiki/Men%27s_skirts) Miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) Pencil (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_skirt) Rah-rah (/wiki/Rah-rah_skirt) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Skort (/wiki/Skort) Tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_(clothing)) Underwear (/wiki/Underwear) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Top Bra (/wiki/Bra) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Undershirt (/wiki/Undershirt) Bottom Diaper (/wiki/Diaper) Training pants (/wiki/Training_pants) Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Plastic pants (/wiki/Plastic_pants) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Thong (/wiki/Thong) Underpants (/wiki/Underpants) boxer briefs (/wiki/Boxer_briefs) boxer shorts (/wiki/Boxer_shorts) briefs (/wiki/Briefs) Full Bodysuit, adult (/wiki/Bodysuit) Bodysuit, infant (/wiki/Infant_bodysuit) Long underwear (/wiki/Long_underwear) See-through (/wiki/See-through_clothing) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Coats (/wiki/Coat) and outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Overcoats (/wiki/Overcoat) Car (/wiki/Car_coat) Chesterfield (/wiki/Chesterfield_coat) Covert (/wiki/Covert_coat) Duffel (/wiki/Duffel_coat) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) British Warm (/wiki/British_Warm) Guards Coat (/wiki/Guards_Coat) Greca (/wiki/Greca_(clothing)) Over-frock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Riding (/wiki/Riding_coat) shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Trench (/wiki/Trench_coat) Ulster (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) opera (/wiki/Opera_cloak) Paletot (/wiki/Paletot) Pea (/wiki/Pea_coat) Polo (/wiki/Polo_coat) Raincoat (/wiki/Raincoat) Mackintosh (/wiki/Mackintosh) Suit coats Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) rekel (/wiki/Rekel) Mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) Suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) Blazer (/wiki/Blazer) smoking (/wiki/Smoking_jacket) sports (/wiki/Sport_coat) Teba (/wiki/Teba_jacket) Tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) dress (/wiki/White_tie#Dress_coat) morning (/wiki/Morning_dress#Morning_coat) Other Apron (/wiki/Apron) pinafore (/wiki/Pinafore) Blouson (/wiki/Blouson) Cagoule (/wiki/Cagoule) Cape (/wiki/Cape) ferraiolo (/wiki/Ferraiolo) Inverness (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) monastic (/wiki/Mantle_(monastic_vesture)) royal (/wiki/Mantle_(royal_garment)) mozzetta (/wiki/Mozzetta) pellegrina (/wiki/Pellegrina) Coatee (/wiki/Coatee) Cut-off (/wiki/Cut-off) Gilet (/wiki/Gilet) Jacket (/wiki/Jacket) down (/wiki/Down_jacket) flight (/wiki/Flight_jacket) goggle (/wiki/Goggle_jacket) Harrington (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) leather (/wiki/Leather_jacket) mackinaw (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Norfolk (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) safari (/wiki/Safari_jacket) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin_(garment)) Lab coat (/wiki/White_coat) Parka (/wiki/Parka) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Robe (/wiki/Robe) bathrobe (/wiki/Bathrobe) dressing gown (/wiki/Dressing_gown) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Ski suit (/wiki/Ski_suit) Sleeved blanket (/wiki/Sleeved_blanket) Windbreaker (/wiki/Windbreaker) Nightwear (/wiki/Nightwear) Babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) Babygrow (/wiki/Babygrow) Blanket sleeper (/wiki/Blanket_sleeper) Negligee (/wiki/Negligee) Nightgown (/wiki/Nightgown) Nightshirt (/wiki/Nightshirt) Pajamas (/wiki/Pajamas) Swimwear (/wiki/Swimsuit) Bikini (/wiki/Bikini) Burkini (/wiki/Burkini) Boardshorts (/wiki/Boardshorts) Dry suit (/wiki/Dry_suit) Monokini (/wiki/Monokini) One-piece (/wiki/One-piece_swimsuit) Rash guard (/wiki/Rash_guard) Sling (/wiki/Sling_swimsuit) Square leg suit (/wiki/Square_leg_suit) Swim briefs (/wiki/Swim_briefs) Swim diaper (/wiki/Swim_diaper) Trunks (/wiki/Trunks_(clothing)) Wetsuit (/wiki/Wetsuit) Footwear (/wiki/Footwear) Boot (/wiki/Boot) Court shoe (/wiki/Court_shoe) Dress boot (/wiki/Dress_boot) Dress shoe (/wiki/Dress_shoe) Flip-flops (/wiki/Flip-flops) Sandal (/wiki/Sandal) Shoe (/wiki/Shoe) Slipper (/wiki/Slipper) Sneaker (/wiki/Sneaker) Legwear (/wiki/Hosiery) Sock (/wiki/Sock) Hold-ups (/wiki/Hold-ups) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Pantyhose (/wiki/Pantyhose) Stocking (/wiki/Stocking) Tights (/wiki/Tights) Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Belt (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) Boutonnière (/wiki/Boutonni%C3%A8re) Coin purse (/wiki/Coin_purse) Cufflink (/wiki/Cufflink) Cummerbund (/wiki/Cummerbund) Gaiters (/wiki/Gaiters) Glasses (/wiki/Glasses) Gloves (/wiki/Glove) Headband (/wiki/Headband) Handbag (/wiki/Handbag) Jewellery (/wiki/Jewellery) Livery (/wiki/Livery) Muff (/wiki/Muff_(handwarmer)) Pocket protector (/wiki/Pocket_protector) Pocket watch (/wiki/Pocket_watch) Sash (/wiki/Sash) Spats (/wiki/Spats_(footwear)) Sunglasses (/wiki/Sunglasses) Suspenders (/wiki/Suspenders) Umbrella (/wiki/Umbrella) Wallet (/wiki/Wallet) Watch (/wiki/Watch) Dress codes (/wiki/Dress_code) Western (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) white tie (/wiki/White_tie) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) Related Clothing fetish (/wiki/Clothing_fetish) Clothing swap (/wiki/Clothing_swap) Costume (/wiki/Costume) creature suit (/wiki/Creature_suit) Halloween costume (/wiki/Halloween_costume) Cross-dressing (/wiki/Cross-dressing) Environmental impact (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) Fur clothing (/wiki/Fur_clothing) types (/wiki/List_of_types_of_fur) Fursuit (/wiki/Fursuit) Global trade of secondhand clothing (/wiki/Global_trade_of_secondhand_clothing) Laws (/wiki/Clothing_laws_by_country) List of individual dresses (/wiki/List_of_individual_dresses) Reconstructed 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American former actor and model Jeff Blynn Born ( 1954-08-21 ) August 21, 1954 New York (/wiki/New_York_City) , New York (/wiki/New_York_(state)) , United States Occupation(s) Restaurant Consultant ex Actor and Model Jeff Blynn is an American former actor and model. Blynn started his modeling career in New York with the Ford Modeling Agency. He moved to Europe, where he had enormous success modeling first in Paris with the agency Paris Planning and then in Milan with the agency Ricardo Gay. In 1975 he moved to Rome where he received a contract as an exclusive fotoromanzi (/wiki/Fotoromanzi) actor for the company "Lancio"; Fotoromanzi were a cultural phenomenon in Italy and throughout Latin America. The Actors and Actresses were revered as Pop Stars and more than half of the population of Italy bought and read them each month. He made his film debut the same year, in L'unica legge in cui credo , a crime film (/wiki/Crime_film) almost entirely starred by "Lancio" fotoromanzi actors. [1] (#cite_note-Curti-1) Between 1975 and 1982, Blynn was a minor star in the poliziotteschi (/wiki/Poliziotteschi) genre. He is credited, but not visible in Cliffhanger (film) (/wiki/Cliffhanger_(film)) . He retired from acting at the beginning of the 1990s to devote himself to his restaurant in Rome in the Parioli area. [1] (#cite_note-Curti-1) [2] (#cite_note-jss-2) The Restaurant bore his name "Jeff Blynn's" and was one of the most successful restaurants of the capital. For the last ten years Blynn has been working as a renowned consultant in the food and beverage industry. References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Curti, Roberto (2013). Italian Crime Filmography, 1968–1980 . McFarland (/wiki/McFarland_%26_Company) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1476612089 . ^ (#cite_ref-jss_2-0) Lancia, Enrico; Melelli, Fabio (2006). Dizionario del cinema italiano. Attori stranieri del nostro cinema . Gremese (/w/index.php?title=Gremese_Editore&action=edit&redlink=1) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 8884404258 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/8884404258) . External links [ edit ] Jeff Blynn (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0090004/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/311678429) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJfGYYRWQhrC3Tbvqq9Rrq) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/1062011813) People Deutsche Biographie (https://www.deutsche-biographie.de/pnd1062011813.html?language=en) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.codfw.main‐54c65fff68‐9jft5 Cached time: 20240717011502 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.294 seconds Real time usage: 0.401 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2206/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 12522/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1797/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 13756/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.188/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5301455/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 386.167 1 -total 29.75% 114.879 1 Template:Infobox_person 25.09% 96.889 1 Template:Reflist 18.80% 72.585 1 Template:Authority_control 18.23% 70.397 1 Template:Cite_book 17.29% 66.762 1 Template:Short_description 9.57% 36.953 19 Template:Main_other 8.66% 33.444 2 Template:Pagetype 7.90% 30.513 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 5.63% 21.722 1 Template:Birth_date Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:43411414-0!canonical and timestamp 20240717011502 and revision id 1116715544. 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A birrus or birrus brittanicus was a rainproof (/wiki/Waterproofing) , hooded (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) woollen (/wiki/Woollen) cloak (/wiki/Cloak) (or simply a hood alone), characteristically worn in Britain (/wiki/Roman_Britain) and Gaul (/wiki/Gaul) at the time of the Roman Empire (/wiki/Roman_Empire) and into the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) . [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) A mosaic at Chedworth Roman Villa (/wiki/Chedworth_Roman_Villa) shows a Briton wearing a birrus brittanicus; [3] (#cite_note-3) there is also one shown on a statue of a ploughman at the British Museum (/wiki/British_Museum) . [4] (#cite_note-4) See also [ edit ] Burnous (/wiki/Burnous) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) William Smith, D.C.L., LL.D.: A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities, John Murray, London, 1875. quoted at [1] (https://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/secondary/SMIGRA*/Birrus.html) (retrieved April 29, 2008) ^ (#cite_ref-2) T.W. Potter, Roman Britain, 2nd edition (London, The British Museum Press, 1997) quoted at the British Museum website [2] (https://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_objects/pe_prb/b/statuette_of_a_ploughman.aspx) (retrieved April 29, 2008) ^ (#cite_ref-3) BBC/OU Open2.net - History - Locations - Chedworth (http://www.open2.net/historyandthearts/history/locations_chedworth.html) ^ (#cite_ref-4) British Museum website (https://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_objects/pe_prb/b/statuette_of_a_ploughman.aspx) (retrieved April 29, 2008) This fashion (/wiki/Fashion) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Birrus&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐7cd59cdcfb‐qldzg Cached time: 20240718012824 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.092 seconds Real time usage: 0.113 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 162/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 3097/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 70/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 6945/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.055/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 851079/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 94.484 1 -total 70.82% 66.909 1 Template:Fashion-stub 69.13% 65.317 1 Template:Asbox 29.11% 27.508 1 Template:Reflist 1.88% 1.781 1 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:17182631-0!canonical and timestamp 20240718012824 and revision id 1007748918. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Birrus&oldid=1007748918 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Birrus&oldid=1007748918) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Headgear (/wiki/Category:Headgear) Fashion stubs (/wiki/Category:Fashion_stubs) Hidden category: All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)
English-Icelandic clothing designer and entrepreneur For the president of the University of Southern Indiana, see Linda L. M. Bennett (/wiki/Linda_L._M._Bennett) . For the American artist, see Linda Diane Bennett (/wiki/Linda_Diane_Bennett) . Linda Bennett Born ( 1962-09-08 ) 8 September 1962 (Age 61) London (/wiki/London) Alma mater Kingsbury Green Primary School, Haberdashers' Aske's School for Girls (/wiki/Haberdashers%27_Aske%27s_School_for_Girls) , Reading University (/wiki/Reading_University) Occupation(s) Clothing designer and entrepreneur Linda Kristin Bennett OBE (/wiki/Officer_of_the_Order_of_the_British_Empire) (born 8 September 1962) is an English clothing designer and entrepreneur, best known for founding the fashion retailer L.K.Bennett (/wiki/L.K.Bennett) . Early life [ edit ] Born in London, Bennett is the daughter of a London-based fashion retail entrepreneur and an Icelandic sculptor mother. She grew up in North West London (/wiki/North_London) , and was educated at Kingsbury Green Primary School, Haberdashers' Aske's School for Girls (/wiki/Haberdashers%27_Aske%27s_School_for_Girls) in Elstree (/wiki/Elstree) and Reading University (/wiki/Reading_University) , where she read Land Management. She then trained as a cordwainer (/wiki/Cordwainer) at Hackney's Cordwainers College (now part of the London College of Fashion (/wiki/London_College_of_Fashion) ), and then working for French designer Robert Clergerie (/wiki/Robert_Clergerie) , before working on the sales floor of retailers Whistles (/wiki/Whistles) and Joseph (/wiki/Joseph_(fashion_brand)) . L.K.Bennett [ edit ] Main article: L.K.Bennett (/wiki/L.K.Bennett) Bennett set up her first shop in Wimbledon Village (/wiki/Wimbledon_Village) , with a goal to produce "something in-between the designer footwear you find in Bond Street and those on the high street." [1] (#cite_note-1) Bennett designed the Duchess of Cornwall (/wiki/Duchess_of_Cornwall) ’s wedding shoes for her marriage to Prince Charles in 2005. [ citation needed ] Because of her equal emphasis on comfort and glamour, Bennett earned the nickname “Queen of the Kitten Heel”. [2] (#cite_note-2) Bennett sold a 70% stake in the business in 2007 to Phoenix Equity Partners (/wiki/Phoenix_Equity_Partners) and Sirius Equity, a retail and branded luxury goods investment company, in a deal believed to have netted her around £70m. Bennett remained on the board of the company as a non-executive director and retained a stake of about 30 per cent. Awards [ edit ] Since setting up L.K.Bennett, she has won several awards, including: Ernst and Young Entrepreneur of the Year (/wiki/Ernst_%26_Young_Entrepreneur_of_the_Year_Award) Award (Consumer Product category) in 2002; Best Women’s Footwear Retailer (UK Footwear Award) in 2003; Veuve Clicquot (/wiki/Veuve_Clicquot) Businesswoman of the Year in 2004; Entrepreneurs’ Entrepreneur award in 2009. In 2004, Bennett was made an honorary fellow of the London College of Fashion (/wiki/London_College_of_Fashion) , her alma mater, and she sits on the development council of the University of the Arts London (/wiki/University_of_the_Arts_London) , of which the London College of Fashion is a part. In 2006, Bennett was awarded an OBE (/wiki/OBE) for services to the fashion industry in the New Year Honours list (/wiki/2007_New_Year_Honours) . [3] (#cite_note-3) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Arifa Akbar, "Linda Bennett, queen of the kitten heel, walks tall among Britain's business leaders" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/analysis-and-features/linda-bennett-queen-of-the-kitten-heel-walks-tall-among-britains-business-leaders-561766.html) , The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) , 30 April 2004. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Sarah Ryle, "Sole trader takes a step back" (https://www.theguardian.com/business/2004/nov/21/theobserver.observerbusiness13) , The Observer (/wiki/The_Observer) , 21 November 2004. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "New Year Honours" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/2953034/New-Year-Honours.html) , Daily Telegraph (/wiki/Daily_Telegraph) , 30 December 2006. 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Online personal styling service (company) Stitch Fix, Inc. Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) Nasdaq (/wiki/Nasdaq) : SFIX (https://www.nasdaq.com/market-activity/stocks/sfix) (Class A) Russell 2000 (/wiki/Russell_2000) component Industry Technology (/wiki/Technology) Founded February 2011 ; 13 years ago ( 2011-02 ) , in Cambridge, Massachusetts (/wiki/Cambridge,_Massachusetts) , U.S. Founders Katrina Lake (/wiki/Katrina_Lake) Erin Morrison Flynn Headquarters One Montgomery Tower (/wiki/One_Montgomery_Tower) , San Francisco, California (/wiki/San_Francisco,_California) , U.S. Key people Katrina Lake ( chairperson (/wiki/Chairperson) ) Matt Baer ( CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Services Styling Revenue US$ (/wiki/United_States_dollar) 1,638 million (2023) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) − US$178 million (2023) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) − US$172 million (2023) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) US$614 million (2023) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) US$247 million (2023) Owners Katrina Lake (16.6%) [1] (#cite_note-1) Number of employees 5,860 (2023) Website stitchfix (https://stitchfix.com/) .com (https://stitchfix.com/) Footnotes / references Financials as of July 29, 2023 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Stitch_Fix&action=edit) . [2] (#cite_note-finance-2) Stitch Fix, Inc. is an online personal styling service (/wiki/Personal_stylist) in the United States. It uses recommendation algorithms (/wiki/Recommendation_algorithm) and data science (/wiki/Data_science) to personalize clothing items based on size, budget and style. The company was founded in 2011 and had an initial public offering (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) in 2017 with a valuation of $1.6 billion. [3] (#cite_note-3) Stitch Fix generated $1.6 billion in net revenue in its fiscal year 2023, a decrease of 21% year-over-year and reported 3,297,000 active clients in September 2023. [4] (#cite_note-4) It is headquartered in San Francisco, California and employs 5,860 people worldwide as of July 29, 2023. [5] (#cite_note-5) History [ edit ] Stitch Fix delivery box Stitch Fix was founded in 2011 by Katrina Lake (/wiki/Katrina_Lake) and former J.Crew (/wiki/J.Crew) buyer Erin Morrison Flynn. [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) The business was originally called Rack Habit, and was initially run out of Lake's apartment in Cambridge, Massachusetts (/wiki/Cambridge,_Massachusetts) . [9] (#cite_note-:0-9) [10] (#cite_note-auto-10) The company began by catering only to women, but it has subsequently expanded to men's clothing, plus sizes, maternity wear, and kids. [9] (#cite_note-:0-9) In 2014, Stitch Fix started to be profitable. In July 2016, the company ended its fiscal year with recorded sales of $730 million, and in May 2017, the company had raised $42 million from outside investors. [9] (#cite_note-:0-9) In November 2017, the company went public (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) on Nasdaq (/wiki/NASDAQ) . It was the first female-led company to launch an IPO (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) in over a year. [11] (#cite_note-11) In October 2018, several class action lawsuits (/wiki/Class_action) were brought against Stitch Fix alleging that the company had violated federal securities laws by making misleading statements about its growth prospects. [12] (#cite_note-12) As of 2019, the company had 8,000 employees including 5,100 stylists and more than 100 data scientists (/wiki/Data_scientist) . [13] (#cite_note-wiredshop-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) On June 2, 2020, the company announced layoffs for 1,400 employees, which was 18% of its total workforce, all of whom were remote workers in California. The affected employees were given the option of remaining with the company if they relocated. [15] (#cite_note-15) The online retailer also announced it would hire roughly 2,000 stylists in cities that have a lower cost of living than those in California, such as Austin, Cleveland, Dallas, Minneapolis, and Pittsburgh. [16] (#cite_note-16) In August 2021, Elizabeth Spaulding replaced founder Katrina Lake as CEO. [17] (#cite_note-17) In January 2023, Spaulding stepped down as CEO, and Lake returned as interim CEO. [18] (#cite_note-18) Former Macy's executive Matt Baer was named CEO in June 2023. [19] (#cite_note-19) Service [ edit ] Stitch Fix is a personal styling (/wiki/Personal_stylist) service that sends individually picked clothing and accessories items for a one-time styling fee. Customers fill out a survey online about their style preferences. [20] (#cite_note-20) A stylist at the company picks five items to send to the customer. Stylists pick items based on a customer's survey answers and any access the customer gives them to their social media outlets. The customer schedules a date to receive their items, which is referred to as a "Fix". Once the shipment is received, the customer has three days to choose to keep the items or return some or all of them. If the customer keeps at least one item, the initial styling fee is credited towards the cost of the item. In addition to the styling fee being credited, if the customer decides to keep all five items, the customer receives 25% off the total cost of the items. Customers choose the shipping frequency, such as every two weeks, once a month, or every two months. The company also supports integration with Pinterest (/wiki/Pinterest) boards, allowing customers to add photos of fashion looks that they like. These boards may be viewed by a Stitch Fix stylist. [21] (#cite_note-21) [22] (#cite_note-22) The company uses data science (/wiki/Data_science) and has combined personal stylists and machine learning (/wiki/Machine_learning) (AI) for personalized recommendation. [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) [25] (#cite_note-25) Media [ edit ] Stitch Fix was referenced in a Wired (/wiki/Wired_(magazine)) article about recommendation algorithms, data science and astrophysics in Silicon Valley. [26] (#cite_note-26) Wired also highlighted a new feature known as "Shop Your Looks," which suggests items matched to those previously purchased by customers. [13] (#cite_note-wiredshop-13) Fast Company (/wiki/Fast_Company) profiled the company and called attention to "its data prowess across every aspect of its business to reinvent the $334 billion U.S. apparel industry." It was recognized as one of the "50 Most Innovative Companies" for 2019. [27] (#cite_note-27) Stitch Fix hosted a Golden Globes (/wiki/Golden_Globes) -like red carpet event in the 59th Street–Columbus Circle station (/wiki/59th_Street%E2%80%93Columbus_Circle_station) in New York City and had a 60-second spot before the 2019 Academy Awards (/wiki/91st_Academy_Awards) . [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Thomas, Lauren; Lauren Hirsch (17 November 2017). "Stitch Fix shares retreat after IPO pop, close at $15.15" (https://www.cnbc.com/2017/11/17/stitch-fix-ipo-opening-trade.html) . CNBC (/wiki/CNBC) . ^ (#cite_ref-finance_2-0) "Stitch Fix, Inc. 2023 Annual Report (Form 10-K)" (https://www.sec.gov/ix?doc=/Archives/edgar/data/1576942/000157694223000114/sfix-20230729.htm) . U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (/wiki/U.S._Securities_and_Exchange_Commission) . 20 September 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Debter, Lauren. "Stitch Fix Shares Pop In IPO, With Retailer Raising $120 Million" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/laurengensler/2017/11/17/stitch-fix-ipo-first-day-of-trading/) . Forbes . Retrieved 2020-04-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Stitch Fix Announces Fourth Quarter and Fiscal Year 2023 Financial Results" (https://investors.stitchfix.com/news-releases/news-release-details/stitch-fix-announces-fourth-quarter-and-fiscal-year-2023) . Stitch Fix . Retrieved 2024-02-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Stitch Fix FORM 10-K" (https://investors.stitchfix.com/static-files/5beae71b-88d6-466b-a01d-7eb46c06a372) . Stitch Fix . Retrieved 2024-02-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Griswold, Alison (April 7, 2014). "Are You There, Margaret? It's Me, Ali" (http://www.slate.com/articles/business/crosspollination/2014/04/stitch_fix_personal_shopping_for_people_who_hate_to_shop.html) . Slate . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Hull, Dana (March 14, 2014). "Q&A: Stitch Fix founder Katrina Lake, on melding fashion and technology" (http://www.mercurynews.com/business/ci_25344221/q-stitch-fix-founder-katrina-lake-melding-fashion) . San Jose Mercury . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Sanders, Lorraine (July 11, 2014). "A new shopping 'fix' - themed packages of products" (http://www.sfgate.com/style/stylebytes/article/A-new-shopping-fix-themed-packages-of-products-3337242.php) . San Francisco Chronicle . ^ a b c Merced, Michael J. De La; Benner, Katie (2017-05-10). "As Department Stores Close, Stitch Fix Expands Online" (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/05/10/business/dealbook/as-department-stores-close-stitch-fix-expands-online.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2017-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-auto_10-0) "Why Stitch Fix and Its CEO Stand Out in Silicon Valley" (http://time.com/5264160/stitch-fix-has-one-of-silicon-valleys-few-female-ceos/) . Time . Retrieved 2018-06-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Stitch Fix Goes Public Marketing The First Tech IPO Led By a Woman This Year" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/business/wp/2017/11/17/stitchfix-goes-public-marking-the-first-tech-ipo-led-by-a-woman-this-year/) . Washington Post . November 17, 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Stitch Fix hit with flurry of lawsuits over growth claims" (https://www.retaildive.com/news/stitch-fix-hit-with-flurry-of-lawsuits-over-growth-claims/539657/) . Retail Dive . Retrieved 2018-10-19 . ^ a b "Need Some Fashion Advice? Just Ask the Algorithm" (https://www.wired.com/story/stitch-fix-shop-your-looks/) . Retrieved 2020-04-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "The personal stylists who are training the bots to be personal stylists" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/business/economy/the-personal-stylists-who-are-training-the-bots-to-be-personal-stylists/2018/08/17/69bb476a-9f1d-11e8-93e3-24d1703d2a7a_story.html) . The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) . Retrieved 2020-04-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Canales, Katie. "Online clothing retailer Stitch Fix is laying off 1,400 California employees and instead hiring in lower-cost cities like Austin and Minneapolis" (https://www.businessinsider.com/online-personal-styling-company-stitch-fix-is-laying-off-1400-2020-6) . businessinsider.com . Retrieved 3 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Kolodny, Lora (2020-06-01). "Stitch Fix is laying off 1,400 employees in California, and plans to hire in lower-cost U.S. cities" (https://www.cnbc.com/2020/06/01/stitch-fix-is-laying-off-1400-in-california-18percent-of-workforce.html) . cnbc.com . Retrieved 2020-06-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Segran, Elizabeth (2021-04-23). "Stitch Fix sells $1.7 billion of clothes each year. Now, its visionary CEO is passing the baton" (https://www.fastcompany.com/90628362/stitch-fix-sells-1-7-billion-of-clothes-each-year-now-its-visionary-ceo-is-passing-the-baton) . Fast Company . Retrieved 2022-04-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) York, Alexandra (2023-01-06). "Stitch Fix founder Katrina Lake returns as CEO. Here are 5 others who went back to run their former companies" (https://www.businessinsider.com/boomerang-ceos-including-bob-iger-steve-jobs-jack-dorsey-2022-11) . Business Insider . Retrieved 2023-02-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) https://investors.stitchfix.com/news-releases/news-release-details/stitch-fix-announces-appointment-matt-baer-chief-executive (https://investors.stitchfix.com/news-releases/news-release-details/stitch-fix-announces-appointment-matt-baer-chief-executive) ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Stitch Fix Review: What to Know Before You Buy" (https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/stitch-fix/) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2022-05-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Peterson, Hayley (March 12, 2015). "This hot fashion startup eliminates the hardest part of shopping" (http://www.businessinsider.com/stitch-fix-review-2015-3) . Business Insider . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Ciambriello, Roo (August 1, 2014). "Why Did These $68 Shorts From Stitch Fix Show Up With a $24.97 Price Tag From Nordstrom Rack?" (http://www.adweek.com/adfreak/why-did-these-68-shorts-stitch-fix-show-2495-price-tag-nordstrom-rack-159245) . Adweek . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Stitch Fix Uses Machine Learning to Augment the Human Touch" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/stitch-fix-uses-machine-learning-to-augment-the-human-touch-11547508890) . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "By Humanizing Brands With AI, Common Marketing Issues Will Cease" (https://www.adweek.com/digital/by-humanizing-brands-with-ai-common-marketing-issues-will-cease/) . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Stitch Fix: The Amazing Use Case Of Using Artificial Intelligence In Fashion Retail" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/bernardmarr/2018/05/25/stitch-fix-the-amazing-use-case-of-using-artificial-intelligence-in-fashion-retail/) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "The Style-Quantifying Astrophysicists of Silicon Valley" (https://www.wired.com/story/the-style-maven-astrophysicists-of-silicon-valley) . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Stitch Fix's radical data-driven way to sell clothes–$1.2 billion last year–is reinventing retail" (https://www.fastcompany.com/90298900/stitch-fix-most-innovative-companies-2019) . Retrieved 2020-04-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Stitch Fix Set Up a Red Carpet for Real Guys in NYC" (https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a26331120/stitch-fix-red-carpet-nyc/) . Retrieved 2020-04-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Stitch Fix debuts new brand campaign on Oscars night" (https://adage.com/article/cmo-strategy/stitch-fix-debuts-brand-campaign-oscars-night/316729) . Retrieved 2020-04-23 . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://stitchfix.com) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6457fbf49b‐hc9zq Cached time: 20240706180719 Cache expiry: 2181162 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.410 seconds Real time usage: 0.582 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3174/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 69429/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 5332/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 28/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 104653/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.237/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6578262/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 536.528 1 -total 39.50% 211.907 1 Template:Reflist 32.41% 173.888 1 Template:Infobox_company 30.43% 163.288 1 Template:Infobox 26.48% 142.084 17 Template:Cite_web 24.52% 131.545 1 Template:Short_description 14.89% 79.879 9 Template:Main_other 14.17% 76.016 1 Template:SDcat 7.46% 40.047 2 Template:Pagetype 6.56% 35.213 10 Template:Cite_news Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:42903262-0!canonical and timestamp 20240706180719 and revision id 1232989356. 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1981 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1981) 1982 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1982) 1983 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1983) 1984 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1984) 1985 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1985) 1986 1987 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1987) 1988 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1988) 1989 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1989) 1990 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1990) 1991 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1991) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐7974fdbb48‐p6ffh Cached time: 20240718085312 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.075 seconds Real time usage: 0.111 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 38/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 1906/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 5/100 Expensive parser function count: 11/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 3073/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.056/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 933837/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 104.965 1 Template:Navseasoncats 100.00% 104.965 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:52659198-0!canonical and timestamp 20240718085312 and revision id 974952662. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Pages in category "Clothing companies established in 1986" The following 14 pages are in this category, out of 14 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . A Anna Valentine (/wiki/Anna_Valentine) B B.U.M. Equipment (/wiki/B.U.M._Equipment) C Calzedonia (/wiki/Calzedonia) Colcci (/wiki/Colcci) Costume National (/wiki/Costume_National) D Dockers (brand) (/wiki/Dockers_(brand)) E Etnies (/wiki/Etnies) F Fusion Specialties (/wiki/Fusion_Specialties) M Mondetta (/wiki/Mondetta) Mossimo (/wiki/Mossimo) MS Shoes (/wiki/MS_Shoes) P Pinko (fashion) (/wiki/Pinko_(fashion)) Poker (sports manufacturer) (/wiki/Poker_(sports_manufacturer)) V Vision Street Wear (/wiki/Vision_Street_Wear) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1986&oldid=974952662 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1986&oldid=974952662) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1980s fashion (/wiki/Category:1980s_fashion) Clothing companies by year of establishment (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_by_year_of_establishment) Design companies established in 1986 (/wiki/Category:Design_companies_established_in_1986) Manufacturing companies established in 1986 (/wiki/Category:Manufacturing_companies_established_in_1986) Clothing companies established in the 20th century (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_the_20th_century)
Type of button 'Blandford Cartwheel' button A Dorset button is a style of craft-made button (/wiki/Button) originating in the English county of Dorset (/wiki/Dorset) . Their manufacture was at a peak between 1622 and 1850, after which they were overtaken by machine-made buttons from factories in the developing industries of Birmingham (/wiki/Birmingham) and other growing cities. Types [ edit ] Dorset buttons are characteristically made by repeatedly binding yarn over a disc or ring former. [1] (#cite_note-1) There are four main forms and a large number of individual styles within these. Wheels [ edit ] Pair of crosswheel buttons 'Wheels' are the most characteristic form of Dorset button and worked on a ring. They are also known as Dorset Cartwheel , Crosswheels , Basket weave and Yarrells . [2] (#cite_note-BBS-2) Wheels are made by variations on the same processes of Casting, Slicking, Laying and Rounding: [3] (#cite_note-Manda-3) Casting Blanket stitch (/wiki/Blanket_stitch) is worked around a ring former, encasing it in a toroidal (/wiki/Toroid) sleeve of yarn. [4] (#cite_note-RC-4) Slicking The initial stitches were worked from the outside of the ring. They originally protruded outside the ring, and are now turned on the ring to all be on the inside. [4] (#cite_note-RC-4) This leaves the outer edge smooth, giving a more functional button, and also forms a slightly protruding flange of stitchwork on the inside. Laying Crosswise strands are stitched radially across the button, from side to side of the casting stitches. [4] (#cite_note-RC-4) Stitches are either caught through the casting stitches, now on the inside after slicking, or else they are simply wrapped over the outside of the ring. [4] (#cite_note-RC-4) These passes may form either a radial star or, if they pass to the sides of the centre, a hollow star. The number of strands varies for the pattern. Strands are usually arranged symmetrically around the ring, but they may be skipped or gathered into bunches, to give patterns. 'Birds eye' buttons do not have any laying or rounding, but use multiple passes of thickened casting to make a simple 'doughnut' button. Originally, before the introduction of wire rings, these were a single pass, formed over a rolled piece of cloth. [5] (#cite_note-Henrys,_History-5) Rounding Rounding weaves a spiral of yarn over the crosswise laid strands, starting from the centre. This step gives most of the pattern variation for a wheel button. 'Blandford Cartwheels' may stop after only a few turns of rounding. [3] (#cite_note-Manda-3) 'Crosswheels' have very little rounding and their cross strands are prominent. 'Basket weave' uses an extensive rounding, visible on the top surface and hiding the cross strands. High Tops and Dorset Knobs [ edit ] 'High Tops' and 'Dorset Knobs' are patterns that are taller, or nearly as tall, as they are wide. [2] (#cite_note-BBS-2) They were the first Dorset buttons to be made, being made on a ram's horn base, before the advent of the metal ring former. They are covered in fabric, then embroidered for decoration. [6] (#cite_note-Beaker_Button-6) Techniques for making them were lost, but rediscovered in the 1970s. The Dorset Knob (/wiki/Dorset_Knob) also gave its name to a locally produced hard biscuit. Birdseyes and Mites [ edit ] These were made by using a small piece of triangular fabric and rolled and formed into a doughnut shape with a hole in the centre. This form was then covered with blanket stitches (/wiki/Blanket_stitch) Singletons [ edit ] 'Singletons' are made on a similar ring former to wheels, but this is padded with a disc of woven fabric that is then embroidered. [2] (#cite_note-BBS-2) Their name derives from the Singleton (/wiki/Singleton_(surname)) family, who made a speciality of this style in the 17th century. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) History [ edit ] Buttons only began to be made in England in the 1400s, when the transition began to be made from ties to this new form of closure. [9] (#cite_note-9) Buttons were traded between towns by itinerant peddlers (/wiki/Peddler) . but there was no organised trade or centres of production beyond this. Around 1600, men's upper-body clothing was beginning its transition from the doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) to the coat (/wiki/Coat_(clothing)) . [10] (#cite_note-10) Buttons became larger, more prominent and became a specialist item made by button-makers, rather than tailors. The first Dorset buttons used products of the local sheep farms: ram's horn (/wiki/Horn_(anatomy)) as a base and locally produced cloth over this. These were the High Top buttons (#High_Tops) . The doublet or peascod (/wiki/Peascod) was fastened by a single central row of small, closely spaced buttons. These were made tall, to avoid the small buttons slipping out of the stiff fabric. As the button line of fashion moved outwards and the garment became more flexible, a wider and lower button was needed, the Dorset Knob (#Dorset_Knob) . Linen (/wiki/Linen) yarns and fabric were used for quality and commercial work, although some early buttons for local use used cheaper woolen (/wiki/Woolen) yarns from local herds. Most buttons were produced in their natural colour, but could be dyed to match garments. [6] (#cite_note-Beaker_Button-6) The use of multiple yarn colours is a predominantly modern trend. Dorset buttons were known and traded widely, but it was a long time before their production was organised into a recognisable industry. The Case family [ edit ] In 1622 Abraham Case moved to Shaftesbury (/wiki/Shaftesbury) and set up the first commercial button making enterprise. [6] (#cite_note-Beaker_Button-6) Originally from Gloucestershire, he had been a soldier in Europe during the Thirty Years War (/wiki/Thirty_Years_War) but returned and married a girl from Wardour (/wiki/Wardour,_Wiltshire) before settling in Shaftesbury. [5] (#cite_note-Henrys,_History-5) Having seen the direction of European fashions he believed that 'Buttony' would become a thriving industry. His first buttons were made in a small workshop. Later buttons for the growing trade were made by outworkers (/wiki/Outworker) working from their homes as piece work (/wiki/Piece_work) . Some farm workers worked on the land during daylight hours, and on button-making in the evenings or in winter. Most though were full-time button-makers. [11] (#cite_note-Dorsetpage-11) This outwork became the norm and an important source of income for many families, and for those too old to work in the fields. Buttons were graded by quality. The finest export grade were mounted onto pink cards. Domestic quality were set on dark-blue cards and the lowest quality onto yellow cards. [12] (#cite_note-Dorset_Ancestors-12) A good buttoner could make around six dozen (72) buttons a day and could earn up to three shillings. [12] (#cite_note-Dorset_Ancestors-12) Buttons sold at retail for between eight pence and three shillings a dozen. [11] (#cite_note-Dorsetpage-11) This compared to wages of perhaps 9d a day as a farm worker. It also had the advantage of being a home-based activity, which was more attractive than being outside in all weathers and also reduced expenditure on shoes and the wear and laundering of clothes. By the end of the 17th century, Buttony had grown to become an important industry, controlled within the Case family. A great many pedlars and hawkers were registered in Shaftesbury, far more than in any other local towns. [5] (#cite_note-Henrys,_History-5) An Act of Parliament (/wiki/Act_of_Parliament) was passed in 1699 (/wiki/Wool_Act_1699) that, amongst its export restrictions on woolens, prevented the making of buttons “made of cloth, serge, drugget, or other stuffs” . [13] (#cite_note-13) The Act would remain in force for two hundred years, but in practice appears to have had little lasting effect on trade. [5] (#cite_note-Henrys,_History-5) Abraham's sons Abraham Jr. and Elias continued with the business, Elias opening a second depot at Bere Regis (/wiki/Bere_Regis) . [12] (#cite_note-Dorset_Ancestors-12) By 1720 there were agencies at Milborne St. Andrew (/wiki/Milborne_St._Andrew) , Sherborne (/wiki/Sherborne) , Poole (/wiki/Poole) , Langton Matravers (/wiki/Langton_Matravers) and Tarrant Keyneston (/wiki/Tarrant_Keyneston) . [14] (#cite_note-Manda,_History-14) Around this time, new forms of button were developed. Wire was imported by wagon from the Midlands, then twisted into rings and soldered. [12] (#cite_note-Dorset_Ancestors-12) These ring formers replaced the previous horn discs and began the characteristic Dorset styles of the wheel buttons. Ring making was carried out by children working as 'Twisters', who formed the rings; 'Dippers', who soldered (/wiki/Soldering) them shut; and 'Stringers', who tied them into strings for distribution to the button makers. [12] (#cite_note-Dorset_Ancestors-12) After a fire in 1731 destroyed the Bere depot, Elias Case, Abraham's son, employed as a manager a Yorkshire businessman, John Clayton, who reorganised the firm. [12] (#cite_note-Dorset_Ancestors-12) A London sales office was opened by Clayton in 1743, followed in 1744 by a new major depot at Lytchett Minster (/wiki/Lytchett_Minster) . Abraham's grandson Peter Case opened an export office in Liverpool. [6] (#cite_note-Beaker_Button-6) Case family money founded the well-known Cases Street and Clayton Square (/w/index.php?title=Clayton_Square,_Liverpool&action=edit&redlink=1) in Liverpool. [14] (#cite_note-Manda,_History-14) Peter Case also developed a new rust-free alloy for making the wire rings. [14] (#cite_note-Manda,_History-14) Smaller collection offices across the county were established at Milborne Stileham (/wiki/Milborne_Stileham) , [3] (#cite_note-Manda-3) Sixpenny Handley (/wiki/Sixpenny_Handley) , Piddletrenthide (/wiki/Piddletrenthide) , Langton (/wiki/Langton_Matravers) and Wool (/wiki/Wool,_Dorset) . [12] (#cite_note-Dorset_Ancestors-12) At one time 'Buttony' employed 4,000 people with a turnover of £14,000. [6] (#cite_note-Beaker_Button-6) Decline [ edit ] The hand-made Dorset Button was slowly replaced by machine-made buttons. The first cloth-and-thread button machine was invented by Benjamin Saunders in 1825. The Saunders machine was closely followed by others including one by John Aston in the early 1840s. Amongst the many industrial machines on display at the Great Exhibition was Mr John Ashton's button-making press (/wiki/Power_press) , first patented in 1841. [5] (#cite_note-Henrys,_History-5) This could manufacture buttons from thin metal sheet far more quickly and cheaply than hand work. These new buttons had the advantage of smart modernity. Birmingham would soon become a major centre for this type of costume jewellery and small presswork. The centralised factories, steam power and access to venture capital could not be competed with by the small-scale enterprises of rural Dorset. Although the agrarian economy of Dorset remained profitable, the collapse of button-making led to much personal hardship. Many joined the mass emigrations to Australia, Canada or the USA. Some became destitute and entered the workhouse (/wiki/Workhouse) . [11] (#cite_note-Dorsetpage-11) The last surviving descendant of Abraham Case died at Milborne St. Andrew in 1908. [14] (#cite_note-Manda,_History-14) In the Edwardian period (/wiki/Edwardian_period) , renewed interest in traditional crafts (/wiki/Arts_and_Crafts_Movement) led Florence, Dowager Lady Lees (/wiki/Elliott_Lees) to attempt to revive the industry but this was frustrated by the outbreak of the Great War (/wiki/World_War_I) . [14] (#cite_note-Manda,_History-14) It was also attempted by the newly formed Women's Institute (/wiki/Women%27s_Institutes) after the war, but to no avail. [6] (#cite_note-Beaker_Button-6) [11] (#cite_note-Dorsetpage-11) In 2017, the Heritage Crafts Association (/wiki/Heritage_Crafts_Association) included button making as one of their list of endangered heritage crafts. [15] (#cite_note-15) In popular culture [ edit ] Dorset buttons have given their name to the Dorset Buttons ladies' Morris (/wiki/Morris_dance) side. The side was formed in 1978 at Wareham (/wiki/Wareham,_Dorset) in Dorset. Although a Dorset side, they dance in the North West (/wiki/Morris_dancing#North_West) tradition, wearing wooden-soled clogs (/wiki/Clog_(British)) . Their colours are red and green with straw hats (/wiki/Straw_hat) covered in Dorset buttons. [16] (#cite_note-16) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Gilleland, Diane (4 March 2011). "How to Make Dorset Buttons" (http://www.craftstylish.com/item/42688/how-to-make-dorset-buttons/page/all) . Craft Stylish . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ a b c Johnstone, Dorothy (15 August 2012). "Dorset buttons" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131101103714/http://www.britishbuttonsociety.org//20070401DorsetButtons.htm) . British Button Society . Archived from the original (http://www.britishbuttonsociety.org//20070401DorsetButtons.htm) on 1 November 2013 . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ a b c "Dorset Buttons" (http://www.mandacrafts.co.uk/Dorset%20Buttons.pdf) (PDF) . Manda Crafts . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ a b c d "How to Make a Dorset Button" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140221152630/http://www.rachelclare.co.uk/?p=169) . Rachel Clare Embroidery . Archived from the original (http://www.rachelclare.co.uk/?p=169) on 21 February 2014 . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ a b c d e "The history of the Dorset Button Industry" (http://www.henrysbuttons.co.uk/history.html) . Henrys Buttons . 5 October 2012 . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ a b c d e f "Dorset Buttons' in Brief" (http://www.beakerbutton.co.uk/#/dorset-buttons-in-brief/4567217248) . Beaker Button . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Singleton Buttons Tutorial" (http://www.thewi.org.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0007/49939/singleton-tutorial-1.pdf) (PDF) . The Women's Institute (/wiki/Women%27s_Institutes) . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-8) Gilleland, Diane (13 March 2009). "How to Make Singleton Buttons" (http://www.craftstylish.com/item/42746/how-to-make-singleton-buttons/page/all) . Craft Stylish . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "The Dorset Button Industry" (https://dorset-ancestors.com/?m=20100201) . Dorset Ancestors . 1 February 2010 . Retrieved 1 February 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Waugh, Norah (/w/index.php?title=Norah_Waugh&action=edit&redlink=1) (1964). The Cut of Men's Clothes . Faber & Faber (/wiki/Faber_%26_Faber) . pp. 14–16. ^ a b c d "Button Making in Dorset" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100701191614/http://www.thedorsetpage.com/history/Button_Making/button_making.htm) . Archived from the original (http://www.thedorsetpage.com/history/Button_Making/button_making.htm) on 1 July 2010 . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ a b c d e f g "The Dorset Button Industry" (http://dorset-ancestors.com/?p=694) . Dorset Ancestors . 1 February 2010 . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Wool Act (1699)" (http://www.landofthebrave.info/1699-wool-act-words-and-text.htm) . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ a b c d e "The History of the Dorset Button" (http://www.mandacrafts.co.uk/Dorset%20Button%20History.pdf) (PDF) . Manda Crafts . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Button making" (http://heritagecrafts.org.uk/button-making/) . The Radcliffe Red List of Endangered Crafts . Heritage Crafts Association (/wiki/Heritage_Crafts_Association) / Radcliffe Trust (/w/index.php?title=Radcliffe_Trust&action=edit&redlink=1) . Retrieved 4 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Dorset Buttons Morris" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140303170331/http://www.wareham-whalers.org.uk/buttons_mummers/buttons/index.htm) . Archived from the original (http://www.wareham-whalers.org.uk/buttons_mummers/buttons/index.htm) on 3 March 2014 . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . Further reading [ edit ] Binnie-Dawson, John (2023). A Genealogically Led History of Dorset Buttony (https://thetimedetective.myshopify.com/products/a-genealogically-led-history-of-dorset-buttony-80-pages) External links [ edit ] Media related to Dorset buttons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Dorset_buttons) at Wikimedia Commons NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐cg4qn Cached time: 20240719094439 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.259 seconds Real time usage: 0.617 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1410/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 27115/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1512/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 62271/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.135/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5284030/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 319.019 1 -total 54.94% 175.257 1 Template:Reflist 36.65% 116.932 15 Template:Cite_web 21.04% 67.122 1 Template:Short_description 12.75% 40.678 1 Template:Commons_category-inline 12.46% 39.762 2 Template:Pagetype 12.23% 39.026 1 Template:Sister-inline 8.16% 26.047 1 Template:Dead_link 7.40% 23.617 1 Template:Fix 6.58% 20.988 2 Template:Category_handler Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:41906758-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719094439 and revision id 1231826643. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dorset_button&oldid=1231826643 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dorset_button&oldid=1231826643) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Buttons (/wiki/Category:Buttons) Culture in Dorset (/wiki/Category:Culture_in_Dorset) Fashion accessories (/wiki/Category:Fashion_accessories) History of clothing (/wiki/Category:History_of_clothing) Parts of clothing (/wiki/Category:Parts_of_clothing) Sewing (/wiki/Category:Sewing) Textile arts (/wiki/Category:Textile_arts) Textile closures (/wiki/Category:Textile_closures) Hidden categories: All articles with dead external links (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_dead_external_links) Articles with dead external links from July 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_dead_external_links_from_July_2019) Articles with permanently dead external links (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_permanently_dead_external_links) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Use dmy dates from July 2019 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_July_2019) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata)
Gyaru fashion and lifestyle magazine in Japan Koakuma Ageha 小悪魔ageha October 2010 Chief editor Rie Momose 2021 – present Former editors Hisako Nakajo 2005 – 2011 Marika Koizumi 2015 Nobuko Yabe 2015 – 2017 Natsuko Takano 2017 – 2019 Categories Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) , Lifestyle (/wiki/Lifestyle_(sociology)) Frequency Bi-yearly Circulation (/wiki/List_of_magazines_by_circulation) 350,000 [1] (#cite_note-1) – 400,000 [2] (#cite_note-2) Publisher HJ 2021 – present Transmedia 2017 – 2020 Neko Publishing 2015 – 2017 Inforest 2005 – 2014 First issue October 2005 Company HJ Co., Ltd. Country Japan Language Japanese (/wiki/Japanese_language) Website https://agehaageha.jp/ (https://agehaageha.jp/) Koakuma Ageha ( 小悪魔ageha , lit. "Little-devil (or demon) Swallowtail [butterfly] " [3] (#cite_note-3) ) is Japanese magazine that introduces the latest fashion (/wiki/Fashion_magazine) and lifestyle (/wiki/Lifestyle_magazine) trends popular among hostesses that is published twice a year, with the main target audience being women in their teens to 20s. Fans of the magazine are also referred to as "agejo" (age嬢, a combination of "Ageha" and "Lady") and often members of the Gyaru subculture. [4] (#cite_note-4) During its peak in 2008, 300,000 of the 400,000 copies produced were sold. [5] (#cite_note-5) In addition to this extremely high circulation, [6] (#cite_note-mdpr-6) the Koakuma Ahega is unique for promoting hostess club (/wiki/Kyabakura) (Japanese-style cabaret (/wiki/Cabaret) ) culture, as it mainly targets women who work at hostess clubs as hostesses, and most of its models are hostesses who actually work at hostess clubs. [7] (#cite_note-kotono8-7) Sociologist Shinji Miyadai (/wiki/Shinji_Miyadai) has described this magazine as a "textbook for hostesses". [8] (#cite_note-8) Some describe this magazine as the "bible for hostesses". [9] (#cite_note-henshusha-9) After multiple bankruptcies, Koakuma Ageha was revived as online magazine on January 5, 2021 with special physical issues releasing bi-yearly since May 26, 2021. [10] (#cite_note-10) History [ edit ] Koakuma Ageha was first published under the name "Koakuma & Nuts" in October 2005 with a 27-year-old woman, Hisako Nakajo, who had been familiar with the gyaru (/wiki/Gyaru) scene, as its chief editor. [9] (#cite_note-henshusha-9) Koakuma & Nuts was only a special edition of the dark-skin oriented Happie Nuts (/wiki/Happie_Nuts) gyaru fashion magazine, but after publication of the second issue, it changed its name to "Koakuma Ageha" and became monthly in October 2006. [11] (#cite_note-gigazine-11) Circulation was then around 220,000 but climbed to 350,000 by the end of 2008. [12] (#cite_note-ajpea-12) Hisako Nakajo left Koakuma Ageha , and its parent company Inforest Publishing, in November 2011. [13] (#cite_note-13) Model and style [ edit ] Koakuma Ageha ' s exclusive models are called "Age-mo(s)", and its irregularly appearing models are called "Age-jo(s)" ( アゲ嬢 ) . [11] (#cite_note-gigazine-11) Most of them are active hostesses from various cities "of the night" (/wiki/Red-light_district) all over the islands of Japan. [14] (#cite_note-dotreview-14) Unlike the ones in Happie Nuts (/wiki/Happie_Nuts) , Ageha models are not required to be dark-skinned. Their unique styles of fashion is called "Ageha-kei" ( アゲハ系 , lit. "Ageha-style") , which has become quite popular among women in their teens and 20s. [11] (#cite_note-gigazine-11) Some explain the typical "Ageha-kei" style as an "evolved form of the gyaru style, grown in the cradle of the hostess club scene, with an essence of yanki (/wiki/Yankee#In_other_parts_of_the_world) ". [7] (#cite_note-kotono8-7) The Ageha style, as a lifestyle, is noted for its tendency to be "local-oriented", in contrast to most other fashion-based lifestyles which tend to be Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) -centric. [15] (#cite_note-15) A 2009 issue featuring the theme "yami" (left) and a usual 2011 issue (right) Koakuma Ageha' s uniqueness is also attributed to its tone; it features hostesses' lifestyles without romanticization, not just recounting the glamorous aspects, [14] (#cite_note-dotreview-14) and although its main focus is, of course, fashion, [7] (#cite_note-kotono8-7) it sometimes features the serious themes of "yami (simultaneously meaning "darkness 闇 " and "sickness 病 ") in the human heart". [11] (#cite_note-gigazine-11) Models talk actively about their "darksides" in their own way, and often reveal some "negative secrets" about their lives and pasts, such as the ones about delinquency (/wiki/Juvenile_delinquency) , running away (/wiki/Runaway_(dependent)) , hikikomori (/wiki/Hikikomori) , bullying (/wiki/Bullying) , betrayal (/wiki/Betrayal) , heartbreak (/wiki/Broken_heart) , mental illness (/wiki/Mental_illness) , trauma (/wiki/Psychological_trauma) , suicide (/wiki/Suicide) , self-image issue (/wiki/Self-image) , sexuality (/wiki/Human_sexuality) , loneliness (/wiki/Loneliness) , abused childhood (/wiki/Child_abuse) , domestic violence (/wiki/Domestic_violence) , and alcoholism (/wiki/Alcoholism) . This is considered quite unique for a Japanese fashion magazine, as Japanese fashion magazines are in general relentlessly light-hearted from beginning to end. [7] (#cite_note-kotono8-7) Ageha models often garner an almost cult-like popularity and attract large amounts of media attention. Eri Momoka, known as "Momoeri", is an early example, [16] (#cite_note-16) and just like Momoka, who has her own brand "Moery", some Ageha models individually launch their own fashion brands. Sumire (/wiki/Sumire_(model)) (1987–2009) launched her own fashion brand "Divas" and often introduced herself as the "Divas designer" during the last days of her life. [17] (#cite_note-17) Shizuka Mutoh, an irregularly appearing Ageha model, launched her own fashion brand "Rady" in 2008 and its monthly net earnings reached $1 million in April 2011. [18] (#cite_note-18) Sister magazines [ edit ] Cover of Ane Ageha , November 2011 Issue, with former Koakuma Ageha models Sayaka Araki (/wiki/Sayaka_Araki) and Sayo Hayakawa (/wiki/Sayo_Hayakawa) Ane Ageha [ edit ] Ane Ageha ( 姉ageha , meaning "Older-sister Swallowtail") was first published in November 2010 under the name "Oneh-san Ageha" ( お姉さんageha ) as a special edition of Koakuma Ageha , and it became independent in March 2011. [19] (#cite_note-19) Ane Ageha is a bi-monthly fashion and cosmetic magazine, and its target audience is females in their late twenties and older. [20] (#cite_note-20) Kimono Ageha [ edit ] Kimono Ageha ( 着物ageha ) was first published in December 2010 as a special edition of Koakuma Ageha . [21] (#cite_note-21) It is an irregularly published magazine specialized in kimono (/wiki/Kimono) , and is modeled by Koakuma Ageha models. [22] (#cite_note-22) I Love Mama [ edit ] I Love Mama (/wiki/I_Love_Mama) «stylized as "I LOVE mama"» was first published in September 2008 under the name "Mama Nuts × Ageha" as a special co-edition of Koakuma Ageha with Happie Nuts (/wiki/Happie_Nuts) . [12] (#cite_note-ajpea-12) Mama Nuts × Ageha changed its name to "I Love Mama" and became monthly in March 2009. [23] (#cite_note-23) I Love Mama is a magazine especially for gyaru women who have gotten pregnant and become mothers (called "gyaru mama") — the first-ever magazine dedicated to gyaru-mamas. [12] (#cite_note-ajpea-12) See also [ edit ] Japanese clothing (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Hostessing an honorable profession, young women say" (http://www.japantoday.com/category/kuchikomi/view/hostessing-an-honorable-profession-young-women-say) , 21 May 2008, Japan Today (/wiki/Japan_Today) ^ (#cite_ref-2) "'Koakuma Ageha' charismatic model Sayaka Araki debuts as a DJ" (http://news.livedoor.com/article/detail/4069047/) , 19 March 2009, Livedoor News (/wiki/Livedoor) (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-3) "A day in the life of a Japanese 'hostess' model" (http://www.cnngo.com/tokyo/life/day-life-japanese-hostess-model-446351) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120128215907/http://www.cnngo.com/tokyo/life/day-life-japanese-hostess-model-446351) 2012-01-28 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) 16 September 2010, CNNGo (/wiki/CNNGo) ^ (#cite_ref-4) makoto. "2006年以降アゲ嬢系・姫系ギャルの人気でギャルの種類が多様化！？\| ギャルチャー" (https://galture.com/history/ageha-gal.html) . galture.com (in Japanese) . Retrieved 2023-12-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "FRIDAY" May 2, 2014 issue p.86-87 "The publisher of 'Little Devil Ageha' screams, 'There's no more money!'" ^ (#cite_ref-mdpr_6-0) "Koakuma Ageha" (http://mdpr.jp/magazine/detail/12) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110501132612/http://mdpr.jp/magazine/detail/12) 2011-05-01 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , Model Press (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%83%A2%E3%83%87%E3%83%AB%E3%83%97%E3%83%AC%E3%82%B9) (in Japanese) ^ a b c d "Totally completed the back numbers of 'Koakuma Ageha'!!" (http://www.kotono8.com/2009/04/30ageha.html) , 30 April 2009, Ebunroku Kotonoha , Hideaki Matsunaga (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9D%BE%27%E6%B0%B8%E8%8B%B1%E6%98%8E) (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-8) " Chugakusei Kara no Ai no Jugyo , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-4-86252-736-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-4-86252-736-3) , pp.219, Shinji Miyadai (/wiki/Shinji_Miyadai) , 2010 (in Japanese) ^ a b "Hisako Nakajo the chief editor of 'Koakuma Ageha' talks about 'five secrets of the ad slogan power'" (http://www.henshusha.jp/2010/08/23/promo-word-3/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120408092820/http://www.henshusha.jp/2010/08/23/promo-word-3/) 2012-04-08 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , 23 August 2010, Henshusha.jp (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-10) "初心にかえった新生「小悪魔ageha」モデルは全国の現役"夜の蝶" 3日で3000万売り上げる現役大学生キャバ嬢も - モデルプレス" (https://mdpr.jp/news/detail/2614949) . モデルプレス - ライフスタイル・ファッションエンタメニュース (in Japanese). 2021-05-26 . Retrieved 2023-12-17 . ^ a b c d "Interview with the chief editor of 'Koakuma Ageha', there are only two things in the world : 'kawaii' or 'not kawaii'" (http://gigazine.net/news/20090714_koakuma_ageha/) , 14 July 2009, Gigazine (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/GIGAZINE) (in Japanese) ^ a b c "Agejo, gyaru, significantly growing women's magazine of a moderate-sized publisher" (http://www.ajpea.or.jp/column/data/20081002.html) 2 October 2008, The All Japan Magazine and Book Publisher's and Editor's Association (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%85%A8%E5%9B%BD%E5%87%BA%E7%89%88%E5%8D%94%E4%BC%9A) (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-13) " Inforest, known as "Koakuma Ageha" among others, bankrupted (http://gigazine.net/news/20140416-infor/) ", 16 April 2014 Gigazine (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/GIGAZINE) (in Japanese) ^ a b "Analyzing 'Koakuma Ageha' and 'Mori Girl' as Lifestyles" (http://dotreview.jp/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/834b5e5f04e1a315fe39330be4614da5.pdf) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110814221801/http://dotreview.jp/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/834b5e5f04e1a315fe39330be4614da5.pdf) 2011-08-14 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , 20 February 2010, Hideaki Matsunaga (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9D%BE%E6%B0%B8%E8%8B%B1%E6%98%8E) , .review (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Truth about 'local orientation' in 'Koakuma Ageha'" (1/2) (http://news.livedoor.com/article/detail/5738513/) , 26 July 2011, Hideaki Matsunaga (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9D%BE%E6%B0%B8%E8%8B%B1%E6%98%8E) , Livedoor Blogos (/wiki/Livedoor) (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Ageha-jo Eri Momoka, Photo session with her son in a popular magazine, 'A day with good job'" (http://japan.techinsight.jp/2008/11/koakum...) , 2 October 2008, Techinsight (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Good bye, Sumire." (http://www.kotono8.com/2009/06/14ageha-aera-enta.html) , 14 June 2009, Ebunroku Kotonoha , Hideaki Matsunaga (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9D%BE%E6%B0%B8%E8%8B%B1%E6%98%8E) (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Koakuma Ageha model Shizuka Mutoh's brand launches its new flag shop in Shinjuku after its monthly earnings exceeds 100 million yen" (http://www.fashionsnap.com/news/2011-07-03/ageha-rady/) , 3 July 2011, Fashionsnap.com (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Older sister version of Koakuma Ageha, by Inforest & Co." (http://www.upbeat-mw.com/2010/12/agehano.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110308135453/http://www.upbeat-mw.com/2010/12/agehano.html) 2011-03-08 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , 15 December 2010, Upbeat Media Works (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Ane Ageha" (http://www.magazine-data.com/women-magazine/aneageha.html) , Women's Fashion Magazine Guide (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-21) "'Koakuma Ageha' releases 'Kimono Ageha'" (http://www.beauty-hair-news.com/news_kGI9XL0VG.html) , 27 December 2010, Beauty Hair News (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Kimono Ageha" (http://www.magazine-data.com/women-magazine/kimonoageha.html) , Women's Fashion Magazine Guide (in Japanese) ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Fake eyelash over pork meat!? Worldview of the gyaru-mama magazine 'I Love Mama'" (http://www.cyzowoman.com/2010/01/i_love_mama.html) January 2010, Cyzo Woman (in Japanese) and "'Spring Is the Dawn Smokey', 'Tsukematrix' — 'I Love Mama' has coined new words" (http://www.cyzowoman.com/2011/03/post_3329.html) March 2011, Cyzo Woman (in Japanese) External links [ edit ] "Koakuma Ageha" official (https://web.archive.org/web/20180303050615/https://agehaweb.jp/) (in Japanese) "Ane Ageha" official (https://web.archive.org/web/20111122052719/http://infor.co.jp/ladys_fashion_beauty/ageha_nuts_mama/) (in Japanese) "Kimono Ageha" official (https://web.archive.org/web/20120411174442/http://infor.co.jp/mook/k-ageha.html) (in Japanese) v t e Models (/wiki/Fashion_model) of Koakuma Ageha Hotaru Akane (/wiki/Hotaru_Akane) Sayaka Araki (/wiki/Sayaka_Araki) Megu Fujigamori (/wiki/Megu_Fujigamori) Sayo Hayakawa (/wiki/Sayo_Hayakawa) Hozunyam (/wiki/Hozunyam) Sumire (/wiki/Sumire_(model)) Ayana Tsubaki (/wiki/Ayana_Tsubaki) v t e Japanese fashion magazines For women An an (/wiki/Anan_(magazine)) AneCan (/wiki/AneCan) Bis (/wiki/Bis_(magazine)) CanCam (/wiki/CanCam) Classy (/wiki/Classy_(magazine)) Egg (/wiki/Egg_(magazine)) Hanako (/wiki/Hanako_(magazine)) Happie Nuts (/wiki/Happie_Nuts) I Love Mama (/wiki/I_Love_Mama) JJ (/wiki/JJ_(magazine)) Junon (/wiki/Junon_(magazine)) Koakuma Ageha Love Berry (/wiki/Love_Berry) Nicola (/wiki/Nicola_(magazine)) Non-no (/wiki/Non-no) Pichi Lemon (/wiki/Pichi_Lemon) PopSister (/wiki/PopSister) Popteen (/wiki/Popteen) Ranzuki (/wiki/Ranzuki) Seventeen (/wiki/Seventeen_(Japanese_magazine)) Soen (/wiki/Soen_(magazine)) Vivi (/wiki/Vivi_(magazine)) For men MensEGG (/wiki/MensEGG) Men's Non-no (/wiki/Men%27s_Non-no) Popeye (/wiki/Popeye_(magazine)) For any Cosmode (/wiki/Cosmode) Fruits (/wiki/Fruits_(magazine)) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐2r6bt Cached time: 20240712195455 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.630 seconds Real time usage: 0.948 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1778/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 38374/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2250/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 16/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 42685/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.401/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 16215949/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 721.061 1 -total 35.81% 258.215 1 Template:Infobox_magazine 35.03% 252.588 1 Template:Infobox 29.18% 210.397 7 Template:Nihongo2 27.05% 195.062 1 Template:Reflist 26.94% 194.263 2 Template:If_empty 24.17% 174.307 7 Template:Lang 14.04% 101.251 1 Template:Short_description 13.95% 100.612 2 Template:Navbox 13.67% 98.566 1 Template:Koakuma_Ageha Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:31669104-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712195455 and revision id 1218499088. 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< User:AveryMcC (/wiki/User:AveryMcC) Italian clothing brand Brandy Melville Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Founders Silvio Marsan Number of locations 95 Products Apparel Website Official website (http://brandymelville.com) Brandy Melville is a European (/wiki/European) clothing (/wiki/Clothing) and fashion (/wiki/Fashion) accessories brand, marketing their products to young women. The company was established in Italy by Silvio Marsan [1] (#cite_note-Brandy-1) but attracted most of its popularity in California. The brand name and logo was inspired by the fictional tale of two people – Brandy, an American girl, and Melville, an English man who met in Rome and fell in love. [2] (#cite_note-2) History [ edit ] Silvio Marson and his son Stephan founded Brandy Melville in Italy the early 80s, and opened their first US store in Los Angeles in 2009, bordering the UCLA campus and Westbrook Neighborhood. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) The business quickly grew wildly popular among young girls, in part due to their Malibu teen aesthetic. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) The Brandy Melville Instagram page currently has over 3.7 million followers and feature models that are white, long legged, young, and very thin. [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) The stores aesthetics match their brand advertising with a bleached wood theme and muted color palette, [5] (#cite_note-:4-5) to align with the simple, low commitment, and affordable clothes they offer. The company's products are sold in physical stores across the world, including Europe (/wiki/Europe) , the United States (/wiki/United_States) , Asia (/wiki/Asia) , Canada (/wiki/Canada) , the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) , Australia (/wiki/Australia) as well as on the Brandy Melville website. [6] (#cite_note-:3-6) Market and Target Demographic [ edit ] Brandy Melville has been described as trend-setting, relevant, cool and fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) and their most prominent buyers are young teen girls looking for trendy fashion from popular name brands. [ citation needed ] In 2014, according to Piper Jaffrays (/wiki/Piper_Jaffray) semiannual report on teen spending, Brandy Melville took the number one spot for up trending brands that year. [7] (#cite_note-7) Brandy's product research team consists of teenage employees, starting at age 15, [5] (#cite_note-:4-5) who attempt to keep the company's styles contemporary and on trend. The company does not use traditional advertising techniques and instead depends heavily on social media marketing and partnerships. There is very little evidence of Brandy Melville representatives speaking on record, rarely any promotional press, and there has been rumor that the employees are not allowed to discuss the company history or identity of CEO with anyone. [8] (#cite_note-8) Controversy [ edit ] During its rise in popularity, Brandy Melville has faced considerate controversy for its "one-size-fits-most", [9] (#cite_note-:2-9) policy as customers began to express distaste for their non-inclusive clothing items. Their clothes are tailored to a 25 inch waist and a 32 inch bust, measurements that are not widely representative of the vast majority of female consumers. [10] (#cite_note-10) Current operations and franchises [ edit ] Brandy Melville currently has 95 locations across the world—with 35 of those locations being in the US. [6] (#cite_note-:3-6) Locations Worldwide Region Number of locations Asia 2 Australia 1 Canada 6 Europe 48 United Kingdom 3 United States 35 References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-Brandy_1-0) "Ich bin ein Brandy-Girl" (http://www.tagesanzeiger.ch/wirtschaft/unternehmen-und-konjunktur/Ich-bin-ein-BrandyGirl-/story/26797168) . Tages-Anzeiger. January 4, 2015 . Retrieved October 19, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Scofield, Caitlin (November 9, 2009). "New clothing store Brandy Melville brings Italian style straight to Westwood" (https://dailybruin.com/2009/11/09/westwood-meets-italian-style) . Daily Bruin . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: url-status ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_url-status) ) ^ Jump up to: a b Schneider, Katy (October 3, 2019). "The Secret Shame of Wearing Brandy Melville" (https://www.thecut.com/2019/10/the-secret-shame-of-wearing-brandy-melville.html) . New York Magazine- The Cut . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: url-status ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_url-status) ) ^ (#cite_ref-:1_4-0) ( https://www.instagram.com/brandymelvilleusa/ (https://www.instagram.com/brandymelvilleusa/) ^ Jump up to: a b Rubin, Julia (September 24, 2014). "Smells Like Teen Spirit: Inside the Secretive World of Brandy Melville" (https://www.racked.com/2014/9/24/7575693/brandy-melville) . Racked . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: url-status ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_url-status) ) ^ Jump up to: a b https://www.brandymelville.co.uk/locations (https://www.brandymelville.co.uk/locations) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Petersen, Hayley (October 7, 2014). "Here's How Teens Really Spend Money, What They Like, And Where They Shop" (https://www.businessinsider.com/how-teens-are-spending-money-2014-2014-10) . Business Insider . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: url-status ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_url-status) ) ^ (#cite_ref-8) Vanslette, Sarah (2016). "Exclusive and Aspirational: Teen Retailer Brandy Melville Uses the Country Club Approach to Brand Promotion" (http://cssc.uscannenberg.org/cases/v5/v5art7/) . Case Studies In Strategic Communication . 5 . ^ (#cite_ref-:2_9-0) Bhasin, Kim (December 6, 2017). "Teens Love Brandy Melville, A Fashion Brand That Sells Only One Tiny Size" (https://www.huffpost.com/entry/brandy-melville_n_5978626?guccounter=1) . HuffPost . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: url-status ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_url-status) ) ^ (#cite_ref-10) Coldicott, Sophie (August 3, 2020). "How the cult of Brandy Melville took over the internet" (https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/3azj8v/rare-brandy-melville-depop-resellers-tiktok) . Vice . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: url-status ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_url-status) ) Company portal (/wiki/Portal:Company) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy portal (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Category:Fashion accessory brands (/wiki/Category:Fashion_accessory_brands) Category:Clothing companies of Italy (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_of_Italy) Category:Clothing companies established in 1970 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1970) Category:Swiss companies established in 1970 (/wiki/Category:Swiss_companies_established_in_1970) This article about a fashion brand, house, corporation or company is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Derelict Anderson–Little store in Rhode Island, shown shortly before demolition, displays the iconic red and white color scheme used in the company's signage Anderson–Little was an American clothing manufacturer and retailer of the 20th century, particularly of men's suits (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) . It operated in the eastern United States (/wiki/Eastern_United_States) , and in New England (/wiki/New_England) in particular. The brand has been revived in the 21st century as a small internet retailer. Foundation and success [ edit ] Anderson–Little was founded in the Boston (/wiki/Boston) area in 1918 [1] (#cite_note-nm-1971aug06-1) or in the 1920s [2] (#cite_note-CSMonitor-2) by Morris B. Anderson and Albert Little. Anderson had been born in Russia and came to America as a teen; before co-founding Anderson-Little he had worked for Singer Sewing Machine (/wiki/Singer_Sewing_Machine) , and managed firms including the Morris B. Anderson Clothing Company. [1] (#cite_note-nm-1971aug06-1) In the 1930s [2] (#cite_note-CSMonitor-2) – perhaps 1933, [3] (#cite_note-AL_history-3) or perhaps 1936 [1] (#cite_note-nm-1971aug06-1) – the company relocated to Fall River, Massachusetts (/wiki/Fall_River,_Massachusetts) , then a textile-manufacturing center. [note 1] (#cite_note-4) The company opened a retail store in Fall River in 1936, and after World War II they opened their first factory showroom (a store in a factory), becoming a pioneer of factory–to–consumer retailing. [3] (#cite_note-AL_history-3) [4] (#cite_note-HeraldNews-5) These outlets were relatively austere operations with suits being hung on racks made of pipes assembled by company hands. [2] (#cite_note-CSMonitor-2) Their main slogan and jingle for decades, "The Best Factory Makes the Best Clothing", [5] (#cite_note-ad_0-6) [6] (#cite_note-ad_1-7) emphasized the manufacturing side of the business. In 1956, the Fall River factory was producing 3000 garments every week and had employed over 1000 people. By 1960 they had eleven stores, all in New England. In 1966 they were acquired by Richman Brothers, [7] (#cite_note-bg-1967jan12-8) [8] (#cite_note-barr-1968jan29-9) at which time there were 40 stores. [3] (#cite_note-AL_history-3) [4] (#cite_note-HeraldNews-5) In 1969 Richman Brothers (including Anderson–Little) was acquired by the retail giant Woolworth (/wiki/F._W._Woolworth_Company) . [9] (#cite_note-ct-1969mar05-10) [10] (#cite_note-lat-1969mar26-11) [11] (#cite_note-nyt-1969mar26-12) In 1981, the company created three new brands – Strathmore, Shefford, and Southport – and added business attire for women (they had formerly only offered men's clothing). [2] (#cite_note-CSMonitor-2) Reports in contemporary news publications showed that the growth of stores may have been much slower than the figures given by articles that were written decades later. The Daily Boston Globe reported that the firm had 7 stores in 1950 [12] (#cite_note-dbg-1950mar08-13) and 9 stores in 1956. [13] (#cite_note-dbg-1956sep20-14) Women's Wear Daily reported that the firm had 19 stores in 4 states in 1966 [14] (#cite_note-wwd-1966nov22-15) and 22 stores in 1967. [15] (#cite_note-wwd-1967dec12-16) During the time of Woolworth's ownership, Dallas Cowboys (/wiki/Dallas_Cowboys) quarterback Roger Staubach (/wiki/Roger_Staubach) served as the company's celebrity spokesman. [16] (#cite_note-gfps-1978feb28-17) Decline and fall [ edit ] Under Woolworth control Anderson–Little grew to 100 stores and beyond. However, when Woolworth took its swan-dive to extinction [17] (#cite_note-Brandland_1-18) it ran Anderson–Little into the ground. [18] (#cite_note-Brandland_0-19) By 1992 the company had swollen to 260 stores, three factories, and two distribution centers, [19] (#cite_note-News-Record_1-20) but was no longer profitable. That same year Woolworth (just a few years short of its own 1997 demise) closed all but seven Anderson–Little stores and announced it would shut the division down entirely, [19] (#cite_note-News-Record_1-20) but a buyer was found and the remnants of Anderson–Little were sold to Cliftex Manufacturing (owners of Gentleman's Wearhouse (not to be confused with Men's Wearhouse (/wiki/Men%27s_Wearhouse) ) that same year. [19] (#cite_note-News-Record_1-20) [20] (#cite_note-tg-1993aug18-21) Cliftex then rebranded some of their Gentlemen's Wearhouse stores as Anderson–Little stores [21] (#cite_note-Courant-22) and also began selling clothing under the Anderson–Little brand in their Gentleman's Wearhouse stores. [22] (#cite_note-News-Record_0-23) In 1992, Cliftex operated 26 Anderson–Little stores, but closed 16 of them that year. [23] (#cite_note-Standard-Times-24) Cliftex Manufacturing closed the remaining Anderson–Little stores in 1998. [3] (#cite_note-AL_history-3) [4] (#cite_note-HeraldNews-5) Revival [ edit ] Ten years later, in 2008, Stuart Anderson (great-grandson of founder Morris Anderson) [24] (#cite_note-Fox_0-25) and his son Scott Anderson reclaimed the brand, which had become available (/wiki/Abandonment_(legal)#Abandonment_of_trademark) after Cliftex went bankrupt, [18] (#cite_note-Brandland_0-19) and started a new clothing company under that name. This revived company, based in Miami (/wiki/Miami) , is a web–only (/wiki/E-commerce) retailer, with products made in America. [25] (#cite_note-WPLG-26) Their first product was a classic blue blazer (/wiki/Blazer) , and as of 2023 that and a black version remain their sole product. [26] (#cite_note-AL-27) In a planned succession Stuart Anderson retired in 2014 and Anderson-Little is now owned and run by Scott Anderson, the fifth generation of Andersons to run the brand. [27] (#cite_note-HeraldNews2-28) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "M. Anderson, 95, Clothier, Dies" (https://www.newspapers.com/newspage/16646043/) . Newport Mercury (/wiki/Newport_Mercury) . August 6, 1971. p. 3 . Retrieved November 19, 2015 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . Morris B. Anderson, 95, of Miami, Fla., clothing magnate and co-founder of Anderson-Little Co. of Fall River, Mass., died Wednesday in Mercy Hospital in Miami. Mr. Anderson was born in Russia. When he was 13 years old, his family came to this country and settled in Boston. He began his career as an employee of the Singer Sewing Machine Co., and later managed several small manufacturing firms, including the Morris B. Anderson Clothing Co. In 1918, he joined Albert Little in founding the Anderson-Little Co., with outlets in Boston and Watertown, Mass. In 1936, he moved to Fall River where they established their factory there. The company currently has 32 outlets throughout New. England, including one in Middietown. After moving to Miami in 1946, he helped found an innovative scholarship loan program at the University of Miami. Besides his son, Mr. Anderson leaves his second wife, Mrs. Jeanette Anderson of Miami, whom he married in 1969; son, Raymond R. Anderson of Barrington, five grandsons and a granddaughter. His first wife, Mrs.Sophie Anderson, died in Newport in 1967. The funeral and burial were in Miami today. Alternate Link (https://www.newspaperarchive.com/us/rhode-island/newport/newport-mercury-and-weekly-news/1971/08-06/page-3) via NewspaperArchive.com (/wiki/NewspaperArchive.com) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Kiefer, Francine (April 12, 1983). "Image change at Anderson-Little helps set sales record" (http://www.csmonitor.com/1983/0412/041242.html) . The Christian Science Monitor (/wiki/The_Christian_Science_Monitor) . Boston . Retrieved November 17, 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d "A Brief History of Anderson–Little" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150921203918/http://andersonlittle.com/history) . Anderson–Little website . Archived from the original (https://andersonlittle.com/history) on September 21, 2015 . Retrieved November 17, 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Welker, Grant (July 17, 2008). "Anderson-Little is back in fashion" (http://www.heraldnews.com/article/20080717/NEWS/307178939/?Start=1) . The Herald News (/wiki/The_Herald_News) . Fall River, Massachusetts . Retrieved November 17, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-ad_0_6-0) "(advertisement)" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2209&dat=19730327&id=Mp4rAAAAIBAJ&pg=6409,3930680&hl=en) . The Telegraph (Nashua) (/wiki/The_Telegraph_(Nashua)) . March 27, 1973. p. 15 . Retrieved November 17, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-ad_1_7-0) "(advertisement)" (https://www.newspapers.com/newspage/59611450/) . The Bridgeport Post (/wiki/Connecticut_Post) . November 21, 1957. p. 15 . Retrieved November 17, 2015 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . ^ (#cite_ref-bg-1967jan12_8-0) "Anderson-Little Merges With Richman Brothers" (https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/boston/doc/367059865.html) . The Boston Globe (/wiki/The_Boston_Globe) . January 12, 1967. p. 48. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 367059865 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/367059865) . Retrieved November 19, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-barr-1968jan29_9-0) Campanella, Frank. (January 29, 1968). "Richman Brothers Styles New Gains On Modern Operating Approach". Barron's (/wiki/Barron%27s_(newspaper)) . p. 24. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 350634968 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/350634968) . Richman significantly expanded its marketing area by taking over on November 1, 1966, Anderson-Little, a New England chain of 14 retail stores, with two outlets in Rhode Island, seven in Massachusetts and five in Connecticut, plus manufacturing facilities in Fall River, Mass. ^ (#cite_ref-ct-1969mar05_10-0) "Richman Bros. Votes Woolworth Unit Merger" (http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1969/03/05/page/64/article/richman-bros-votes-woolworth-unit-merger) . Chicago Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Tribune) . March 5, 1969. p. c6. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 168884501 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/168884501) . Retrieved November 19, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-lat-1969mar26_11-0) "Woolworth completed acquisition at the Richman Bros. clothing firm" (https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/doc/156166016.html) . Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) . March 26, 1969. p. f9. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 156166016 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/156166016) . Retrieved November 19, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-nyt-1969mar26_12-0) Abele, John J. (March 26, 1969). "Woolworth Buys Apparel Concern: Variety Chain and Richman of Cleveland Combined; Companies Take Merger Actions" (https://www.nytimes.com/1969/03/26/archives/woolworth-buys-apparel-concern-variety-chain-and-richman-of.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . p. 61. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 118683556 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/118683556) . Retrieved November 19, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-dbg-1950mar08_13-0) "Anderson Little Open New Retail Clothing Store on Summer St" (https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/boston/doc/839623931.html) . Daily Boston Globe (/wiki/Daily_Boston_Globe) . March 8, 1950. p. 8. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 839623931 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/839623931) . Retrieved November 19, 2015 . Anderson Little was founded in Boston in 1911 by Morris B. Anderson and operations were shifted to Fall River in 1936. There are now seven units in the retail chain. ^ (#cite_ref-dbg-1956sep20_14-0) "Anderson-Little Label Assures Utmost in Value" (https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/boston/doc/843366436.html) . Daily Boston Globe (/wiki/Daily_Boston_Globe) . September 20, 1956. p. 23. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 843366436 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/843366436) . Retrieved November 19, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-wwd-1966nov22_15-0) "Anderson-Little Opens Waltham, Portland Units". Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . Vol. 113, no. 101. November 22, 1966. p. 28. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 1565328407 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/1565328407) . Two stores have opened simultaneously in Waltham, Mass., and Portland, Me., by Anderson-Little Co., to bring the total to 19 stores in four states for the manufacturing-retail firm headquartered in Fall River, Mass. ^ (#cite_ref-wwd-1967dec12_16-0) "Anderson-Little Opens Another Unit". Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . Vol. 115, no. 240. December 12, 1967. p. 43. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 1523493845 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/1523493845) . Anderson-Little opened its twelfth Massachusetts store, here [Lowell, Mass.], in its growing chain of 22 factory salesrooms. ^ (#cite_ref-gfps-1978feb28_17-0) "Clothing Store Plans to Open" (https://newspaperarchive.com/us/new-york/glens-falls/glens-falls-post-star/1978/02-28/page-2) . Glens Falls Post Star . February 28, 1978. p. 16. The company's national spokesman is Heisman Trophy winner Roger Staubach, quarterback for the Dallas Cowboys. Alternate Link (https://www.newspaperarchive.com/us/new-york/glens-falls/glens-falls-post-star/1978/02-28/page-2) via NewspaperArchive.com (/wiki/NewspaperArchive.com) . ^ (#cite_ref-Brandland_1_18-0) Pollard, Garland (July 1, 2007). "F. W. Woolworth's: July 2007 Dead Brand of The Month" (http://www.brandlandusa.com/2007/07/01/f-w-woolworths-july-2007-dead-brand-of-the-month/) . BrandlandUSA (blog) . Retrieved November 18, 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b Pollard, Garland (January 1, 2009). "Founding Family Interview: The Anderson-Little Brand Returns" (http://www.brandlandusa.com/2009/01/01/founding-family-interview-the-anderson-little-brand-returns/) . BrandlandUSA (blog) . Retrieved November 18, 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Woolworth's to shut Anderson Little chain. (F.W. Woolworth Co. closes Anderson Little-Richman Brothers)" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110516182016/http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-12107513.html) . Daily News Record (/wiki/Daily_News_Record) . April 6, 1992. Archived from the original (http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-12107513.html) on May 16, 2011 . Retrieved June 19, 2010 – via HighBeam Research (/wiki/HighBeam_Research) . ^ (#cite_ref-tg-1993aug18_21-0) Donker, Peter P. (August 18, 1993). "Clothier buys Anderson-Little name". Telegram & Gazette (/wiki/Telegram_%26_Gazette) . p. E2. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 268517735 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/268517735) . Gentlemen's Wear-House, the New Bedford-based men's factory-direct clothier, said it has bought the Anderson-Little name and will change the name of 26 of its 30 retail outlets to Anderson- Little. Gentlemen's Wear-House outlets are primarily in the Boston market, the Hartford-New Haven-Springfield area; Providence, the Albany, N.Y., market and in Pennsylvania and Wisconsin. Gentlemen's Wear-House was founded in 1972 and is a privately held company. ^ (#cite_ref-Courant_22-0) Weisman, Robert (August 18, 1993). "Gentlemen's Wear-house Acquires Anderson-little" (http://articles.courant.com/1993-08-18/business/0000005906_1_stores-new-england-customer-mailing-list) . Hartford Courant (/wiki/Hartford_Courant) . Hartford, Connecticut . Retrieved November 17, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-News-Record_0_23-0) "Gentlemen's Wear-House chain using Anderson-Little Logo" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110516182120/http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-14436929.html) . Daily News Record (/wiki/Daily_News_Record) . September 24, 1993. Archived from the original (http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-14436929.html) on May 16, 2011 . Retrieved June 19, 2010 – via HighBeam Research (/wiki/HighBeam_Research) . ^ (#cite_ref-Standard-Times_24-0) Rising, David (November 18, 1996). "Cliftex closing stores" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071113124523/http://archive.southcoasttoday.com/daily/11-96/11-18-96/a01lo008.htm) . South Coast Today . Standard–Times (/wiki/The_Standard-Times_(New_Bedford)) (New Bedford, Massachusetts). Archived from the original (http://www.southcoasttoday.com/article/19961118/News/311189991) on November 13, 2007 . Retrieved November 18, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-Fox_0_25-0) Scott Anderson (May 6, 2011). Interview with Scott Anderson (Flash video) (TV news interview). New York City: Fox Business Network (/wiki/Fox_Business_Network) . Event occurs at 0:15 . Retrieved November 17, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-WPLG_26-0) "Made in South Florida: Anderson-Little" (http://www.local10.com/news/local/made-in-south-florida-anderson-little) . Local 10 News . WPLG . Retrieved August 26, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-AL_27-0) "Classic Blue Blazer" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150801030034/http://andersonlittle.com/) . Anderson–Little website . Archived from the original (https://andersonlittle.com/) on August 1, 2015 . Retrieved November 17, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-HeraldNews2_28-0) Kevin P. O'Connor (April 29, 2013). "Fall River classic men's clothing store Anderson-Little is reborn" (http://www.heraldnews.com/x1506802033/Fall-River-classic-mens-clothing-store-Anderson-Little-is-reborn) . The Herald News (/wiki/The_Herald_News) . Fall River, Massachusetts . Retrieved August 26, 2016 . Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-4) According to the company website the company was founded in Fall River, in 1933, but other sources contradict this External links [ edit ] Anderson–Little website (https://www.andersonlittle.com/) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐67876cfcf7‐s9f84 Cached time: 20240711150852 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.387 seconds Real time usage: 0.430 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1898/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 56175/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1175/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 9/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 132643/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.220/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3979515/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 340.979 1 -total 99.96% 340.842 2 Template:Reflist 61.36% 209.235 15 Template:Cite_news 16.87% 57.528 11 Template:Cite_web 7.27% 24.791 10 Template:ProQuest 5.99% 20.439 10 Template:Catalog_lookup_link 3.53% 12.021 1 Template:Cite_AV_media 0.85% 2.913 2 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:48584169-0!canonical and timestamp 20240711150852 and revision id 1198464542. 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British company Alligator Industry Fashion Founder Reuben Satinoff Products "Wet look" PVC raincoats Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Baker Street Brands Alligator Rainwear was a British company, whose main factory was based in Stockport (/wiki/Stockport) . It was best known for its 1960s collaborations with Mary Quant (/wiki/Mary_Quant) in the design and production of her "Wet Look" collection of PVC raincoats. The firm was started after the First World War by Reuben Satinoff, who had previously founded the London Waterproof Company (Silkimac). It was taken over by his sons after the Second World War. For decades, it manufactured traditional weatherproof raincoats in black, brown and beige, but the collaboration with Quant led to new fabrics including PVC and nylon, and a range of bright and vibrant colours. At its peak in the 1960s and 1970s, Alligator had a turnover of £5 million per year and was exporting its products to Europe and North America. It was later owned by Baker Street Brands who describe it as one of their "heritage brands". Early history [ edit ] After the First World War, Reuben Satinoff moved from the United States to the UK, and founded the London Waterproof Company (Silkimac) and soon afterwards created Alligator Rainwear as a subsidiary. [1] (#cite_note-bakerstbrands-1) [2] (#cite_note-TradeMark-2) Alligator Mill opened in the 1930s, and was a six-storey building in Portwood (/wiki/Portwood) , just to the east of Stockport town centre. [1] (#cite_note-bakerstbrands-1) [3] (#cite_note-davenportstation.org-3) Its trading office was based in Maddox Street (/wiki/Maddox_Street) , London. [1] (#cite_note-bakerstbrands-1) After the Second World War, his sons, Harry and William "Willie" Satinoff took over production. [1] (#cite_note-bakerstbrands-1) Alligator eventually had four factories in the UK: London, Manchester, Leeds and the mill at Stockport, as its main base. [4] (#cite_note-manutd.com/-4) In 1952, both the American "Alligator Company", who had used the "Alligator" trademark since 1908, and the London Waterproof Company (Silkimac), who had used the "Alligator" trademark since 1932 and popularised it in the UK further since 1948, applied for the trademark "Alligator" in the UK. [2] (#cite_note-TradeMark-2) [5] (#cite_note-5) Willie Satinoff was a keen football fan and friend of Matt Busby (/wiki/Matt_Busby) , and died in the Munich air disaster (/wiki/Munich_air_disaster) on 6 February 1958. [4] (#cite_note-manutd.com/-4) Association with Mary Quant [ edit ] Disco in ICI Terylene (/wiki/Terylene) and cotton, designed by Mary Quant for Alligator Before working with Mary Quant, Alligator had already collaborated with Pierre Balmain (/wiki/Pierre_Balmain) and Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) . [6] (#cite_note-auto-6) In April 1963, Mary Quant (/wiki/Mary_Quant) launched her "Wet Collection", her first collection of PVC (/wiki/PVC_clothing) raincoats (/wiki/Raincoat) . [7] (#cite_note-auto1-7) It led to her first magazine cover for British Vogue (/wiki/British_Vogue) . [6] (#cite_note-auto-6) However, the seams easily split and rip when passed through an ordinary sewing machine (/wiki/Sewing_machine) . In 1965 she sought the assistance of Alligator who were able to use their knowledge to successfully join the seams and secure the plastic clothing. [8] (#cite_note-Milford-Cottam2020-8) The collaboration with Alligator led to the production of Quant's vinyl ankle boots with her daisy logo footprints and a range of Mary Quant PVC raincoats which could be available commercially. [6] (#cite_note-auto-6) For decades, Alligator had manufactured traditional weatherproof raincoats in black, brown and beige, but the arrangement with Quant led to the use of new materials such as PVC and nylon, in a range of bright and vibrant colours. [7] (#cite_note-auto1-7) Jill Kennington (/wiki/Jill_Kennington) was photographed by John Cowan (/wiki/John_Cowan_(photographer)) in a white PVC Quant/Alligator rain tunic and hat for the Sunday Times in 1963. [7] (#cite_note-auto1-7) Later history [ edit ] At its peak in the 1960s and 1970s, Alligator had a turnover of £5 million per year, concessions UK-wide in House of Fraser (/wiki/House_of_Fraser) and Debenhams (/wiki/Debenhams) department stores, and was exporting its products to Europe and North America. [1] (#cite_note-bakerstbrands-1) The headquarters at Stockport was located at Richard Street, with a large "Alligator" sign seen from miles away. Advertising, marketing and sales were led by Norman Satinoff. [6] (#cite_note-auto-6) Alligator is now owned by Baker Street Brands, and produces rainwear, clothing and luggage, described as one of their "heritage brands". [1] (#cite_note-bakerstbrands-1) In 2011, Baker Street Clothing won a four-year legal case against Lacoste (/wiki/Lacoste) , who argued that people would confuse the trademark Alligator with their crocodile logo. [9] (#cite_note-Thompson-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) By 2013, the Stockport mill had been demolished, and the site is now occupied by a Tesco (/wiki/Tesco) supermarket and part of the M60 motorway (/wiki/M60_motorway) . [1] (#cite_note-bakerstbrands-1) [3] (#cite_note-davenportstation.org-3) References [ edit ] ^ a b c d e f g "In the beginning……" (https://www.bakerstbrands.co.uk/portfolio-items/alligator/) . bakerstbrands . Retrieved 12 November 2020 . ^ a b "In the matter of Applications by the Alligator Company and by the London Waterproof Company (Silkimac) Ld. for Trade Marks" (https://academic.oup.com/rpc/article/75/17/420/1614769) . Reports of Patent, Design and Trade Mark Cases . 75 (17): 420–424. 15 October 1958. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1093/rpc/75.17.420 (https://doi.org/10.1093%2Frpc%2F75.17.420) . ^ a b " (http://www.davenportstation.org.uk/beaconsfield.html) 'Beaconsfield', the Leighs, and the Mormon Church A lost Davenport mansion and its replacement" (http://www.davenportstation.org.uk/beaconsfield.html) . davenportstation.org . Retrieved 12 November 2020 . ^ a b Ganley, Joe (6 February 2020). "Willie Satinoff: One Of Us" (https://www.manutd.com/en/news/detail/tribute-to-man-utd-fan-willie-satinoff-on-munich-1958-anniversary) . manutd.com . Retrieved 12 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) The Trade-mark Reporter . United States Trademark Association. 1959. ^ a b c d Johnson, Helen (May 26, 2019). "How Stockport helped shape the Swinging Sixties" (https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/how-stockports-style-regions-rain-16311072) . Manchester Evening News . ^ a b c "V&A · Six revolutionary designs by Mary Quant" (https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/six-revolutionary-designs-by-mary-quant) . Victoria and Albert Museum . ^ (#cite_ref-Milford-Cottam2020_8-0) Milford-Cottam, Daniel (2020). "Innovation" (https://books.google.com/books?id=u3LeDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA21) . Fashion in the 1960s . Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 21. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-78442-406-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-Thompson_9-0) Thompson, James (23 October 2011). "UK fashion company wins brand battle with Lacoste" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/news/uk-fashion-company-wins-brand-battle-lacoste-2103296.html) . The Independent . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210201142221/https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/news/uk-fashion-company-wins-brand-battle-lacoste-2103296.html) from the original on 2021-02-01 . Retrieved 26 December 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Bently, Lionel; Sherman, Brad (2014). Intellectual Property Law . Oxford University Press. p. 983. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-964555-8 . External links [ edit ] Pressreader (https://www.pressreader.com/uk/stockport-express/20190605/281809990389925) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐75759f6667‐vxk7d Cached time: 20240708001114 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.352 seconds Real time usage: 0.421 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1592/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 21027/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 653/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 41980/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.222/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5562784/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 390.936 1 -total 45.82% 179.115 1 Template:Reflist 31.54% 123.304 5 Template:Cite_web 29.14% 113.931 1 Template:Infobox_company 26.02% 101.727 1 Template:Infobox 21.28% 83.189 1 Template:Short_description 12.29% 48.039 2 Template:Pagetype 5.22% 20.392 6 Template:Main_other 4.32% 16.908 1 Template:SDcat 3.95% 15.456 3 Template:Cite_book Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:65817906-0!canonical and timestamp 20240708001114 and revision id 1188134298. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alligator_Rainwear&oldid=1188134298 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alligator_Rainwear&oldid=1188134298) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Clothing brands of the United Kingdom (/wiki/Category:Clothing_brands_of_the_United_Kingdom) Companies based in Stockport (/wiki/Category:Companies_based_in_Stockport) Outdoor clothing brands (/wiki/Category:Outdoor_clothing_brands) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata)
Jewellery of Cambodia Khmer jewellery originated in the Khmer Empire (/wiki/Khmer_Empire) . Khmer jewellery has been produced since the 6th or 7th century. Jayavarman VII (/wiki/Jayavarman_VII) , while he was an influential figure who established the different trends in Khmer jewellery, is famously represented without any at all in the seated position. The amount of jewellery acquired in Cambodia traditionally established a person's identity and status. Khmer jewellery (/wiki/Jewellery) consists of a diverse variety of styles and fashions. These styles can be categorised (/wiki/Categorization) into three distinct groups: royal jewellery, wedding jewellery and the jewellery for the Cambodian Royal Ballet. Identity and status [ edit ] In Cambodian society, gold is a symbol of power, status, authority, wealth, and loyalty. Khmer jewellery is an element of national pride and identity. A special exhibition, called “Ancient Khmer Jewelry and Ornaments: Gold and Silver Masterpieces of the Collections of the National Museum of Cambodia”, was exhibited for one month from January 4 to February 3, 2018, at the National Museum of Cambodia (/wiki/National_Museum_of_Cambodia) , with "artifacts [which] underscore Cambodia's glorious, long-lasting civilisation which was once a past empire in Asia". [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] Prehistoric Khmer jewellery [ edit ] Jewelries were found in Cambodia since in prehistoric time especially the recent discoveries of prehistoric sites in Prey Veng (/wiki/Prey_Veng_province) and in Banteay Meanchey province (/wiki/Banteay_Meanchey_province) . According to the scientific datation of the artifacts in association with silver jewelries from Prohear site in Prey Veng, silver jewelries can be dated to around 200 years B.C. [2] (#cite_note-2) Khmer Jewellery since the Empire of Angkor [ edit ] Khmer earring of the Angkorean period at the Cleveland Museum of Art (/wiki/Cleveland_Museum_of_Art) . Gold, silver, platinum, bronze, bronze, beads, gems were used by the ancient Khmer people to make jewelry for body decoration to enhance aesthetics. Khmer designed a variety of jewelry artifacts, still exhibited in the National Museum of Cambodia (/wiki/National_Museum_of_Cambodia) . Cambodian stoned statues adorned with carved jewels are evidence a rich diversity of jewellery made of gold, silver, bronze and gems. In Angkorian bas-reliefs (/wiki/Bas_reliefs) , while certain devatas have little or no jewelry, they are in the minority and most possess extremely varied ornaments. [3] (#cite_note-3) Even in cases where they do not wear any ornaments, their earlobes are always elongated. An example is the Narayan statue erected during the reign of Udayadityavarman II (/wiki/Udayadityavarman_II) in 1060. The statue is adorned with a set of jewels made of gold and with many precious stones, including crowns, earrings, and necklaces. Angkorian civilization (/wiki/Khmer_Empire) also left behind a number of Khmer inscriptions (/wiki/Khmer_inscriptions) recording the donation of jewelry as offerings. [4] (#cite_note-4) Renewing Khmer jewellery at the École des arts cambodgiens in the 20th century [ edit ] When, in 1922, George Groslier (/wiki/George_Groslier) strived to create the École des arts cambodgiens, which is now the Royal University of Fine Arts (/wiki/Royal_University_of_Fine_Arts) , jewellery was one of the six disciplines taught in order to renew Cambian crafts and skills. [5] (#cite_note-5) Through the Colonial exhibition (/wiki/Colonial_exhibition) in Marseille in 1922, Khmer jewellery won international fame and would soon be on sale in Parisian boutiques. [6] (#cite_note-6) Contemporary Khmer creations: recycling war and conflict [ edit ] Jewellers in the Central Market (/wiki/Central_Market_(Phnom_Penh)) of Phnom Penh (/wiki/Phnom_Penh) . Traditional Khmer jewellery remains popular in contemporary Cambodia. However, various new items of jewellery have become popular since the end of the Cambodian Civil War (/wiki/Cambodian_Civil_War) as recycling of weapons of war and bullets. Thus, Khmer jewellers produces unique jewellery pieces that have been fashioned from recycled bullet casings remaining from the days of war. The metal from the casing is melted down and sculptured into the works of art. [7] (#cite_note-7) Styles [ edit ] Royal Khmer jewellery [ edit ] The rulers of the Khmer Empire distinguished themselves the refinement of their jewellery, to which they gave special care and attention. Thus, a Khmer inscription in Pali language (/wiki/Pali_language) dating from King Indravarman III (/wiki/Indravarman_III) who climbed on the throne in 1296 AD mentions a pious laywoman named Sirimâlmïratanalakkhï, endowed with faith and other virtues, guardian of the royal jewellery. [8] (#cite_note-8) Khmer royal jewellery is usually composed of five elements: the royal crown, the royal sword, the royal dagger, the royal sash, and the two royal bracelets on the arms. During royal cremations, the full royal jewellery is worn by the deceased king: the plaque of the belt made of a gold buckle with the royal arms named kabal khme khat , four gold buttons attached to the read and gold jacket, a double gold sash decorated with diamonds that cross each other on the chest, two bracelets called kang thap on the arms, the forearm bracelets called kang nak preas hast , and rings adorned with diamonds on the fingers and a pair of sandals made of solid gold named preas sopea beat . [9] (#cite_note-9) Cambodian Royal Ballet [ edit ] Dancers of the Cambodian Royal Ballet (/wiki/Royal_Ballet_of_Cambodia) wear specific jewellery which closely resembles royal jewellery. Khmer Wedding [ edit ] According to the Khmer wedding tradition, clothing and apparel is formal, and the jewellery worn, inspired from royal jewellery, is stereotyped. Artifacts [ edit ] Crowns [ edit ] The most refined element of Cambodian jewellery is the crown which is worn both by the Kings and Queens, and by the dancers of the Cambodian Royal Ballet, though they are more often worn by the latter. Bracelets [ edit ] Khmer bracelets are kondrom are worn on both ankles and wrists. Swords [ edit ] While swords are primarily weapons of defence, the Cambodian Royal Sword or Preah Khan Reach (/wiki/Preah_Khan_Reach) , has integrated the finest elements of Khmer jewellery to become a symbol of power. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Pech, Sotheary (4 January 2018). "Ancient Angkorian jewellery to go on show" (https://www.khmertimeskh.com/100000/ancient-angkorian-jewellery-go-show/) . Khmer Times . Retrieved 22 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Kong Vireak (2009). Khmer silverwares . Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Reyum Publishing. p. 27. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-99950-55-48-6 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 641072701 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/641072701) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Marchal, Sappho (2005). Khmer Costumes and Ornaments of the Devatas of Angkor Wat . Orchid Press. p. 7. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-974-524-057-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "គ្រឿងអលង្ការនៅសម័យបុរាណបង្ហាញពីអរិយធម៌ជឿនលឿនក្នុងសតវត្ស ទី12-13" (https://kohsantepheapdaily.com.kh/article/7366.html) . Koh Santepheap Daily (in Khmer). 23 July 2010 . Retrieved 22 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Abbe, Gabrielle (2008). "La " rénovation des arts cambodgiens " (https://dx.doi.org/10.3917/bipr.027.0061) " (https://dx.doi.org/10.3917/bipr.027.0061) . Bulletin de l'Institut Pierre Renouvin . 27 (1): 61. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.3917/bipr.027.0061 (https://doi.org/10.3917%2Fbipr.027.0061) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1276-8944 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1276-8944) . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Edwards, Penny (1 January 2007). Cambodge: The Cultivation of a Nation, 1860-1945 . University of Hawaii Press. p. 155. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8248-2923-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Barone, Jeanine (18 February 2015). "Khmer-Inspired Shopping by Angkor Wat" (https://www.nytimes.com/2015/02/22/travel/khmer-inspired-shopping-by-angkor-wat.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 22 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Cœdès, George (1936). "Etudes cambodgiennes" (https://www.persee.fr/doc/befeo_0336-1519_1936_num_36_1_3659) . Bulletin de l'École française d'Extrême-Orient . 36 (1): 16. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.3406/befeo.1936.3659 (https://doi.org/10.3406%2Fbefeo.1936.3659) . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Mizerski, Jim (11 October 2013). Finale, The Royal Cremations of Norodom and Norodom Sihanouk, Kings of Cambodia . Jasmine Image Machine. p. 154. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-99963-816-1-4 . Bibliography [ edit ] Bunker, Emma (2000) Splendour and Sensuality in Angkor. Period Khmer Jewellery. Orientations (Hong Kong). 31/3: 102–113. Bunker, Emma C.; Latchford, Douglas (2008). Khmer Gold: Gifts for the Gods . Douglas A.J. Latchford. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-58886-097-2 . Kong, Vireak (2009). Khmer silverwares . Reyum Publishing. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-99950-55-48-6 . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Khmer_jewellery&oldid=1212643924 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Khmer_jewellery&oldid=1212643924) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Jewellery (/wiki/Category:Jewellery) Culture of Cambodia (/wiki/Category:Culture_of_Cambodia) Hidden categories: CS1 Khmer-language sources (km) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Khmer-language_sources_(km)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Use dmy dates from February 2023 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_February_2023)
British shoesmaker R.E. Tricker Ltd Industry Retail Founded 1829 Founder Joseph Tricker Headquarters Northampton (/wiki/Northampton) , United Kingdom Products Shoes Website www (http://www.trickers.com) .trickers (http://www.trickers.com) .com (http://www.trickers.com) A pair of Tricker's Stow country boots R.E. Tricker Ltd, which trades as Tricker's , is a British footwear company established in 1829 by Joseph Tricker in Northampton (/wiki/Northampton) . [1] (#cite_note-Bloomberg-1) Tricker's produces men's and women's shoes and boots, as well as leather accessories such as belts (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) and wallets (/wiki/Wallet) . [1] (#cite_note-Bloomberg-1) It is best known for its heavy country boots and shoes, [2] (#cite_note-2) and was one of several Northampton-based companies identified as having survived the downturn in British shoemaking between the 1970s and 2000s and "carved out a niche for themselves at the top end of the international shoe market" by The Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) in 2012. [3] (#cite_note-3) The company was granted a royal warrant (/wiki/Royal_Warrant_of_Appointment_(United_Kingdom)) in 1989. [4] (#cite_note-BBC_Tricker's_opens_Tokyo_store-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) Tricker's factory in Northampton is a Grade II listed building (/wiki/Listed_building) . [6] (#cite_note-6) Much of the film version of the musical Kinky Boots (/wiki/Kinky_Boots_(film)) was filmed in the factory. [7] (#cite_note-7) As of 2019, Tricker's operated several shops in the UK as well as a single store in Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) . A BBC (/wiki/BBC) story reported that 80 per cent of the company's sales were overseas, and it was considering opening other shops in South Korea and the United States. [4] (#cite_note-BBC_Tricker's_opens_Tokyo_store-4) Tricker's closed its factory and shops in March 2020 in response to the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) . This was the first time the firm had stopped producing shoes since it was established. [8] (#cite_note-8) The closure of the factory was necessary on health grounds, as it was not practical for staff to practice social distancing (/wiki/Social_distancing) in it. [9] (#cite_note-9) Tricker's received a funding facility from its bank in May that year to enable it to be able to rapidly resume operations. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 2021 Tricker's employed 86 workers in its factory who typically produced 1,000 pairs of shoes weekly. [11] (#cite_note-11) References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Tricker's (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Tricker%27s) . ^ a b "Company Overview of R.E. Tricker Ltd" (https://www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapid=225190970) . Bloomberg . Retrieved 1 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Gustashaw, Megan (16 July 2016). "7 Iconic English Shoemakers You Should Know" (https://www.gq.com/story/7-iconic-english-shoemakers-you-should-know) . GQ . Retrieved 1 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Nicholls, David (24 March 2012). "For the well-heeled: British shoemakers find their feet" (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9160291/For-the-well-heeled-British-shoemakers-find-their-feet.html) . The Telegraph . Retrieved 1 June 2019 . ^ a b "Shoe firm Tricker's opens Tokyo store" (https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-northamptonshire-48051476) . BBC News . Retrieved 1 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "R.E. Tricker Ltd" (https://www.royalwarrant.org/company/re-tricker-ltd) . Member's Directory . The Royal Warrant Holders Association . Retrieved 1 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Morrison, Kathryn A; Bond, Allen (2004). Built to Last? The Buildings of the Northamptonshire Boot and Shoe Industry . United Kingdom: Swindon. p. 62. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781848023031 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Getting to the roots of Kinky Boots" (https://www.northampton.gov.uk/news/article/2815/getting-to-the-roots-of-kinky-boots) . Northampton Borough Council. 4 September 2018 . Retrieved 23 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Coronavirus: Royal shoemaker stops for first time in 191 years" (https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-northamptonshire-52382448) . BBC News . 22 April 2020 . Retrieved 21 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Duggan, Jack (23 April 2020). " (https://www.northamptonchron.co.uk/business/shoe-industry-will-be-back-its-feet-soon-trickers-boss-hopeful-after-shutting-northampton-factory-first-time-ever-history-2546739) 'The shoe industry will be back on its feet soon': Tricker's boss hopeful after shutting Northampton factory for first time ever in history" (https://www.northamptonchron.co.uk/business/shoe-industry-will-be-back-its-feet-soon-trickers-boss-hopeful-after-shutting-northampton-factory-first-time-ever-history-2546739) . Northampton Chronicle & Echo . Retrieved 21 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Ulke, Alastair (5 May 2020). "Northampton's Tricker's factory receives 'support' from HSBC to tide firm over until lockdown lifts" (https://www.northamptonchron.co.uk/business/northamptons-trickers-factory-receives-support-hsbc-tide-firm-over-until-lockdown-lifts-2843671) . Northampton Chronicle & Echo . Retrieved 21 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Schomberg, William (26 January 2021). "Historic English shoe-maker counts the costs of Brexit" (https://www.reuters.com/article/uk-britain-eu-exporters-idUSKBN29V1B5) . Reuters . Retrieved 4 April 2021 . 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Type of eyeglasses Mahatma Gandhi's glasses in the National Gandhi Museum (/wiki/National_Gandhi_Museum) Windsor glasses (also known as tea glasses or round granny glasses [1] (#cite_note-1) ) are a type of eyeglasses (/wiki/Eyeglasses) characterised by circular or nearly circular eyerims and a thin metal frame. The style emerged in the 19th century and first became popular in the 1880s. Traditionally the bridge of Windsor glasses is a "saddle" (a simple, arched piece of metal joining the two eyerims), and hence to prevent the glasses slipping off the face the temples are "riding bow temples" (a strongly arched wire that hooks around the ears); however, in a modern and extended definition, Windsors typically have a bridge with nose pads and gently curved temples. In popular culture [ edit ] Notable people associated with Windsor glasses include John Lennon (/wiki/John_Lennon) (and thus the glasses are sometimes referred to as "John Lennon glasses"), who first wore them on the set of How I Won The War in September 1966. [2] (#cite_note-2) One of his Windsor glasses were auctioned at $56,800 in 2020. [3] (#cite_note-3) Other notable people include Mahatma Gandhi (/wiki/Mahatma_Gandhi) , as well as the fictional character Harry Potter (/wiki/Harry_Potter_(character)) . Groucho Marx (/wiki/Groucho_Marx) and Theodore Roosevelt (/wiki/Theodore_Roosevelt) also sometimes wore Windsor glasses, although they better remembered for their horn-rimmed (/wiki/Horn-rimmed_glasses) Groucho glasses (/wiki/Groucho_glasses) and rimless (/wiki/Rimless_eyeglasses) pince nez (/wiki/Pince_nez) , respectively. [4] (#cite_note-emergence-4) Steve Jobs (/wiki/Steve_Jobs) wore glasses with a thin frame and round lenses, but unlike true Windsor glasses they were rimless. Mahatma Gandhi (/wiki/Mahatma_Gandhi) John Lennon (/wiki/John_Lennon) Groucho Marx (/wiki/Groucho_Marx) Theodore Roosevelt (/wiki/Theodore_Roosevelt) Practical considerations [ edit ] The minimalist (/wiki/Minimalism) nature of Windsor glasses presents some pragmatic advantages over other styles. Glasses that have eyerims with a particular customised shape may be subject to vendor lock-in (/wiki/Vendor_lock-in) , where the only company able to manufacture new lenses for a given frame is the same company from which that frame was purchased. In contrast, the circle is a basic geometric shape and so it is in the public domain (/wiki/Public_domain) . This means that glasses with circular eyerims made from one brand may be compatible with the lenses (/wiki/Corrective_lens) made by many other brands. Eyeglass lenses were historically made of glass and had to be ground against an abrasive surface to fit the shape of the eyerims. Getting the lens to fit an irregularly shaped eyerim required skill and specialised equipment. The simplicity of carving a circle meant that circular lenses were generally cheaper to produce. Modern lenses are instead made of plastic and can be made to any shape with ease. The thin frame requires less metal, and therefore costs less to produce, although the corollary of this is that Windsor glasses are more easily broken if crushed. See also [ edit ] Browline glasses (/wiki/Browline_glasses) Cat eye glasses (/wiki/Cat_eye_glasses) Horn-rimmed glasses (/wiki/Horn-rimmed_glasses) Rimless eyeglasses (/wiki/Rimless_eyeglasses) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Exploring The Origins Of Ozzy Osbourne's Iconic Glasses: Did They Come From John Lennon? \| Ben Vaughn" (https://www.benvaughn.com/exploring-the-origins-of-ozzy-osbournes-iconic-glasses-did-they-come-from-john-lennon/) . www.benvaughn.com . Retrieved 2023-08-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Miles, Barry (/wiki/Barry_Miles) (2001). The Beatles Diary Volume 1: The Beatles Years . London: Omnibus Press (/wiki/Omnibus_Press) . p. 244. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7119-8308-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "John Lennon's Iconic Round Spectacles Sell for $57,000 in Rare Beatles Auction" (https://news.yahoo.com/john-lennons-iconic-round-spectacles-183521670.html) . Yahoo News . 2020-10-01 . Retrieved 2023-08-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-emergence_4-0) Shop, The Vintage Optical. "The Emergence of Windsor Glasses \| The Vintage Optical Shop" (https://vintageopticalshop.com/vintageeyeglasseshistory/emergence-windsor-glasses.html,%20https://vintageopticalshop.com/vintageeyeglasseshistory/emergence-windsor-glasses.html) . Retrieved 2021-02-02 . [ permanent dead link ] v t e Types of eyewear (/wiki/Eyewear) (Eye) glasses (/wiki/Glasses) / spectacles Belay (/wiki/Belay_glasses) Bifocals (/wiki/Bifocals) Browline (/wiki/Browline_glasses) Bug-eye (/wiki/Bug-eye_glasses) Cat eye (/wiki/Cat_eye_glasses) Chicken (/wiki/Chicken_eyeglasses) GI (/wiki/GI_glasses) Groucho (/wiki/Groucho_glasses) Horn-rimmed (/wiki/Horn-rimmed_glasses) Lensless (/wiki/Lensless_glasses) Lorgnette (/wiki/Lorgnette) Opera (/wiki/Opera_glasses) Monocle (/wiki/Monocle) Pince-nez (/wiki/Pince-nez) Pinhole (/wiki/Pinhole_glasses) Rimless (/wiki/Rimless_eyeglasses) Scissors (/wiki/Scissors-glasses) Shooting (/wiki/Shooting_glasses) Smart (/wiki/Smartglasses) Trifocals (/wiki/Trifocal_lenses) Windsor X-ray (/wiki/X-ray_specs) Sunglasses (/wiki/Sunglasses) Aviator (/wiki/Aviator_sunglasses) Mirrored (/wiki/Mirrored_sunglasses) Solar viewer (/wiki/Solar_viewer) Shutter (/wiki/Shutter_shades) Wayfarer (/wiki/Ray-Ban_Wayfarer) Goggles (/wiki/Goggles) Ballistic (/wiki/Ballistic_eyewear) Dark adaptor (/wiki/Dark_adaptor_goggles) Doggles (/wiki/Doggles) Fatal Vision (/wiki/Fatal_Vision_(goggles)) Foggles (/wiki/Foggles) Night-vision (/wiki/Night-vision_device) Snow (/wiki/Snow_goggles) Swedish (/wiki/Swedish_goggles) Upside down (/wiki/Upside_down_goggles) Welding (/wiki/Welding_goggles) Other Blindfold (/wiki/Blindfold) Blinder (/wiki/Blinders_(poultry)) Blinker (/wiki/Blinkers_(horse_tack)) Contact (/wiki/Contact_lens) Eyepatch (/wiki/Eyepatch) Shutter system (/wiki/Active_shutter_3D_system) VR headset (/wiki/Virtual_reality_headset) This article about the eye (/wiki/Eye) is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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American costume designer and artist Costume by Christian Joy Christian Joy (b. December 22, 1973 as Christiane Joy Hultquist) [1] (#cite_note-V&A-1) is an American costume designer and artist best known for her stage costume designs for Yeah Yeah Yeahs (/wiki/Yeah_Yeah_Yeahs) lead singer Karen O (/wiki/Karen_O) . Using found articles and occasionally eschewing thread and print for glue and marker pens she has influenced contemporary fashion with punk (/wiki/Punk_fashion) and DIY (/wiki/DIY) stylings. Career [ edit ] Christian Joy was born in Marion, Iowa (/wiki/Marion,_Iowa) , US. She started designing in Brooklyn (/wiki/Brooklyn) , NYC (/wiki/New_York_City) in 2000. With no formal training in fashion design, she started creating one of a kind hand-painted/hand-sewn t-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) and re-designing old prom dresses (/wiki/Prom) . [2] (#cite_note-2) She met Karen O in 2001 and the aspiring singer soon became her favorite model. As the Yeah Yeah Yeahs began playing shows Joy designed a fresh outfit for each occasion. [3] (#cite_note-NYT-3) As the band's fame grew so did Joy's reputation and, in September 2002, she mounted a solo show Brat Style during NYC Fashion week. [4] (#cite_note-4) As the Yeah Yeah Yeahs achieved international success Joy was able to pursue her designing work full-time. In 2007 her costume designs were featured at the Victoria & Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_%26_Albert_Museum) in London as part of the New York Fashion Now exhibit. [1] (#cite_note-V&A-1) In 2008 Joy took on dressing UK band Klaxons (/wiki/Klaxons) persuading them to give up their trademark neon outfits. She collaborated with TopShop (/wiki/TopShop) on three limited-edition collections, and released her first personal ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) garments. [5] (#cite_note-5) In Feb 2009 Joy had her first solo exhibition, The Visitors Must Be Amused, at the AVA gallery in NYC. Joy asked associates to write a description of a female being and then designed a costume representing each definition, including one of an alien goddess gown with a whip. [6] (#cite_note-6) In September 2009 Joy costumes were featured in a Where The Wild Things Are (/wiki/Where_the_Wild_Things_Are_(film)) pop-up shop (/wiki/Popup_retail) in Los Angeles. [7] (#cite_note-7) In 2011 Joy created the costumes for Stop the Virgens a "psycho opera" created by Karen O and KK Barrett (/wiki/KK_Barrett) [8] (#cite_note-8) In May 2012 Joy presented Do Androids Dream of Electric Shrimp? at the Diesel Art Gallery in Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) . The exhibition was a combination of past Karen O costumes, new "Kite Costumes", videos featuring Joy's designs and poster and textile prints. [9] (#cite_note-9) In November 2012 the exhibition was moved to New York City, where it was held at Picture Farm Gallery (/w/index.php?title=Picture_Farm_Gallery&action=edit&redlink=1) in Williamsburg (/wiki/Williamsburg,_Brooklyn) , Brooklyn. [10] (#cite_note-10) Joy has also created costumes for Santigold (/wiki/Santigold) and Danish singer/songwriter Oh Land (/wiki/Oh_Land) . [11] (#cite_note-11) In September 2013 Joy mounted an art installation show Bok Joy at Secret Project Robot in Brooklyn. [12] (#cite_note-12) Press [ edit ] Joy received her first major press in the June–July 2003 issue of Nylon (/wiki/Nylon_(magazine)) magazine in a feature article - 'Even Odds' written by Johanna Lenander - on her Karen O wardrobe. [1] (#cite_note-V&A-1) In August 2003 Joy, in a Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) profile, scoffed at her It girl (/wiki/It_girl) status. [13] (#cite_note-13) In July 2004 Joy and her designs were a key element of a New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) Sunday magazine feature about the growing influence of Indie Rock (/wiki/Indie_Rock) on fashion. [3] (#cite_note-NYT-3) In June 2005 Joy was again featured in Nylon in an article entitled 'Quiet Riot'. [14] (#cite_note-14) December 2005's ELLEgirl (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) introduced Christian Joy as a guru of 'DIY' Fashion. [15] (#cite_note-15) A follow-up piece in April 2006 re-inforced her status. [16] (#cite_note-16) In 2008 Joy contributed to Carrie Borzillo-Vrenna (/wiki/Carrie_Borzillo-Vrenna) 's book Cherry Bomb , mentioning John Waters (/wiki/John_Waters_(filmmaker)) as a style inspiration. [17] (#cite_note-17) In January 2010 Joy's costumes appeared in a photo spread in The Block (/w/index.php?title=The_Block_(magazine)&action=edit&redlink=1) ' s Fame issue. In the accompanying interview, Joy discussed abandoning mass fashion for the DIY approach of using Etsy as her exclusive store. [18] (#cite_note-18) She is also featured in German fashion blog Two For Fashion. [19] (#cite_note-19) In February 2010 Christian Joy was featured on the cover of Time Out New York' s, Most Stylish New Yorkers [20] (#cite_note-20) Stop the Virgens Press: T-Magazine, "The Look of Karen O's Psycho Rock Opera" by Katie Chang (/wiki/Katie_Chang) , Photos by Ioulex (/w/index.php?title=Ioulex&action=edit&redlink=1) [21] (#cite_note-21) Do Androids Dream of Electric Shrimp? Press: The Japan Times, "Totally Wrapped In Joy" by Misha Janette and Samuel Thomas, Photo by Nick Zinner (/wiki/Nick_Zinner) [22] (#cite_note-22) References [ edit ] ^ a b c "NEW YORK FASHION NOW / Celebrity" (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/contemporary-new-york-fashion/) . Victoria & Albert Museum. 2007 . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Funky art fashion: Christian Joy" (https://www.boingboing.net/2004/03/16/funky-art-fashion-ch.html) . Boing Boing (/wiki/Boing_Boing) . March 16, 2004 . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . ^ a b Julia Chaplin (2004-07-25). "Indie Designers Pin Hopes (And Clothes) on Indie Singers" (https://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/25/style/indie-designers-pin-hopes-and-clothes-on-indie-singers.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . Ms. Joy met Karen O three years ago, when Ms. Joy was a saleswoman at Daryl K. "Karen saw this dress I had made called the Teenager Car Crash, that was like a black shredded prom dress with red paint that looked like blood," Ms. Joy recalled in her living room in Greenpoint, where she was sketching Japanese fold-up lanterns and medieval armor as studies for the outfits Karen O would wear on the David Letterman show. "All of a sudden they were playing out and doing interviews and photo shoots every week," Ms. Joy said. "I was making her stuff out of old newspapers or fabric from a dollar store. I just charged her enough to cover my costs." ^ (#cite_ref-4) "PUNKCAST#195 Christian Joy - 'Brat Style' - Spring 2003 - Spa NYC - Sep 4 2002" (http://punkcast.com/195/index.html) . PUNKCAST . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Samantha Gilewicz. "JOY DIVISION" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080828070145/http://www.nylonmag.com/?section=article&parid=1575) . NYLON Magazine. Archived from the original (http://www.nylonmag.com/?section=article&parid=1575) on 2008-08-28 . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The Visitors Must Be Amused" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090302043152/http://www.audiovisualarts.org/christianjoy.html) . AVA Gallery. Archived from the original (http://audiovisualarts.org/christianjoy.html) on 2009-03-02 . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Luxcartel Catches Up With Christian Joy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110718102104/http://luxcartel.wordpress.com/2009/09/04/luxcartel-catches-up-with-christian-joy/) . blog . LuxCartel. September 4, 2009. Archived from the original (http://luxcartel.wordpress.com/2009/09/04/luxcartel-catches-up-with-christian-joy/) on 2011-07-18 . Retrieved 2009-09-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Lee, Amy (2012-03-03). "Behind The Scenes Of Karen O's Psycho Opera" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/03/03/stop-the-virgens-documentary_n_1318275.html) . Huffington Post . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "christian joy: do androids dream of electric shrimp?" (http://www.designboom.com/readers/christian-joy-do-androids-dream-of-electric-shrimp/) . Designboom.com . 2012-05-28 . Retrieved 2017-03-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) [1] (http://www.papermag.com/view/gallery/50a02887beea732547000016/1#1) [ dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-11) White, Misty (2012-11-13). "Karen O's Costume Designer Christian Joy Presents First Ever Retrospective" (http://fashionista.com/2012/11/check-out-all-the-outlandish-designs-from-karen-o-costume-designer-christian-joys-retrospective-shoe/) . Fashionista . Retrieved 2017-03-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) crus, Araceli (September 13, 2013). "Costume Designer Christian Joy on the Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Her New Art Installation, and Liberace" (http://www.elle.com/news/culture/christian-joy-interview) . Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) . Retrieved September 14, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) George Epaminondas (August 28, 2003). "6. Christian Joy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110120170313/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1005542,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1005542,00.html) on January 20, 2011 . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . Says Joy: "I ring up my mum and say, 'They're calling Karen a fashion icon, and she's got a fake mink hanging around her neck with button eyes!' It's stupid stuff." ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Nylon June/July 2005" (http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/f78/nylon-june-july-2005-kelly-osbourne-27237.html) . The Fashion Spot . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) DIY Fashion . ELLEgirl Dec 2005 - Jan 2006. p. 45 . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "SO YOU WANT TO BE KAREN O..." (https://books.google.com/books?id=uQUEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA78) ELLEgirl Apr 2006. April 2006. p. 78 . Retrieved 2009-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Cherry Bomb: Carrie Borzillo-Vrenna's Ultimate How-To for Budding Rock Chicks" (http://www.laweekly.com/2008-07-31/music/how-to-be-a-rock-chick-carrie-borzillo-vrenna-offers-first-hand-advice/2) . LA WEEKLY. July 30, 2008 . Retrieved 2009-06-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Christian Joy" (https://archive.today/20120912005250/http://www.theblock-mag.com/christian-joy/) . The Block. 2010-01-21. Archived from the original (http://www.theblock-mag.com/christian-joy/) on 2012-09-12 . Retrieved 2010-01-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Leist, Kathrin (January 8, 2010). "Christian Joy: Kostümdesign für Freiheitsliebende" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100114134958/http://twoforfashion.otto.de/christian-joy-mode-musik-kunst-kostueme/01412/) . Otto (/wiki/Otto_GmbH) . Archived from the original (http://twoforfashion.otto.de/christian-joy-mode-musik-kunst-kostueme/01412/) on 2010-01-14 . Retrieved 2010-02-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Most stylish New Yorkers 2010 \| Shopping, Up-and-coming talent \| reviews, guides, things to do, film - Time Out New York" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120414074821/http://www.timeout.com/newyork/shopping/most-stylish-new-yorkers-2010) . www.timeout.com . Archived from the original (http://www.timeout.com/newyork/shopping/most-stylish-new-yorkers-2010) on 14 April 2012 . Retrieved 17 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Chang, Katie (2011-10-12). "The Look of Karen O's Psycho Rock Opera" (http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/10/12/the-look-of-karen-os-psycho-rock-opera/) . The New York Times . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Janette, Misha. "Totally wrapped in Joy" (http://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2012/06/12/style/totally-wrapped-in-joy/) . The Japan Times (/wiki/The_Japan_Times) . Retrieved 2017-03-06 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.christianjoy.us.com/) Christian Joy News! (https://christianjoycostumes.tumblr.com/) Karen O Costumes (https://web.archive.org/web/20130330084239/http://www.christianjoy.us.com/karenocostumes) Urban Outfitters (https://web.archive.org/web/20090922213954/http://blog.urbanoutfitters.com/features/wtwta_christian_joy) Where The Wild Things Are costume pics Christian Joy on StyleLikeU (https://vimeo.com/33806399) Alison Miller video interview (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVt76m8yxyw) Jan 2010 Christian Joy (https://vimeo.com/15584165) Fashion film by Claire Carré Confess! a film by Ioulex for Christian Joy (https://vimeo.com/52630689) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐f656bc667‐xp7sl Cached time: 20240709032735 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.402 seconds Real time usage: 0.538 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1259/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 37249/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1125/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 77938/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.242/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5031669/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 489.145 1 -total 58.67% 286.981 1 Template:Reflist 31.49% 154.050 1 Template:Short_description 31.39% 153.545 11 Template:Cite_web 12.52% 61.235 2 Template:Pagetype 8.09% 39.556 8 Template:Cite_news 7.27% 35.555 1 Template:Dead_link 6.14% 30.014 1 Template:Fix 6.12% 29.954 5 Template:Main_other 6.02% 29.435 1 Template:Authority_control Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:23307855-0!canonical and timestamp 20240709032735 and revision id 1143896115. 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American fashion director, writer and actress Bijie Martin, 1918 Beth " Bijie " Martin (October 13, 1900 – January 30, 1968) was an American fashion director, writer and actress. Born in New York City, she was the daughter of American Opera singers Riccardo Martin (/wiki/Riccardo_Martin) and Ruano Bogislav (/w/index.php?title=Ruano_Bogislav&action=edit&redlink=1) . From the time Martin was a small child she was dubbed 'Bijie' by her theatrical parents who moved between homes in New York, Paris and Italy. She early on developed an interest in theatre, but unlike her vocally talented parents opted to find a path on dramatic stage. Her brief though critically praised theatrical career in the early 1920s led to a close friendship with actress Tallulah Bankhead (/wiki/Tallulah_Bankhead) whom she met in London. Both woman shared an affinity for fashion and bohemian living with a devotion and flare for their Southern backgrounds (Martin's father a Kentuckian born to a prominent Virginia family whom descended from William Thornton (/wiki/William_Thornton_(Virginia_burgess)) , William Thornton, and Christopher Branch (/wiki/Christopher_Branch) . Martin's theatre opportunities began to wane by 1928 and she opted to leave the stage to reside in Paris with her mother. In 1928, Martin married Rudolph de Wardener. De Wardener was the American born son of Austro-Hungarian aristocrat Baron Rudolph de Wardener, who had arrived in the United States to fight for the Union Army during the Civil War. Wardener was a broker living in Paris at the time of the marriage and Martin remained in Paris until the outbreak of the Second World War. The marriage eventually fell apart and the two divorced though Martin retained her husband's name for the rest of her life. Early on Martin developed a fashion career and while in Paris found a position in the fashion house of couturier Main Rousseau Bocher better known as Mainbocher (/wiki/Mainbocher) . Martin remained as "Directrice" of the company for nearly thirty years overseeing the development of fashion lines and maintaining strong connections with high-profile customers including the Duchess of Windsor (/wiki/Duchess_of_Windsor) . Martin followed the company to New York where she remained until her retirement. During her New York period she regularly contributed to fashion magazines and other periodicals on fashion theory and developing women's fashion trends. She died at the age of 68 at Norwalk, Connecticut. References [ edit ] United States Passport and Immigration Records, The National Archives and Records Administration, 700 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. "Biji Martin, Designer, Is Dead; Was Director of Mainbocher's", Obituary, The New York Times, February 1, 1968. Flanner, Janet, "Pioneer: Profile of Main Bocher", The New Yorker, January 13, 1940. Pictorial Review, Volume 33, Issue 12, New York, 1932. Crawford, Morris de Camp, "Ways of Fashion", Fairchild Pub., New York, 1941. De Acosta, Mercedes, "Here lies the Heart", Arno Press, New York, 1975. Home Journal, Volume 94, Hearst Corp. 1939. External links [ edit ] Beth Martin (https://www.ibdb.com/broadway-cast-staff/51617) at the Internet Broadway Database (/wiki/Internet_Broadway_Database) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐dfb86547b‐t74xb Cached time: 20240710200300 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.118 seconds Real time usage: 0.562 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 503/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 3556/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1153/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 921/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.045/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 1841411/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 163.813 1 -total 55.85% 91.494 1 Template:Short_description 32.83% 53.786 2 Template:Pagetype 14.91% 24.430 4 Template:Main_other 13.33% 21.829 1 Template:SDcat 13.01% 21.313 1 Template:IBDB_name 10.21% 16.722 1 Template:Authority_control 9.21% 15.084 1 Template:Use_American_English 7.47% 12.234 2 Template:DMCA 7.31% 11.977 1 Template:Reflist Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:36891159-0!canonical and timestamp 20240710200300 and revision id 1176207932. 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Shoulder cloth Tamil Brahmins (Iyers and Iyengars) in traditional mantras veshti and angavastram at a convention of the Mylai Tamil Sangam, c. 1930s An angavastra (plural, angavastram , Sanskrit (/wiki/Sanskrit_language) : अङ्गवस्त्रम् ) is a shoulder cloth or stole worn by men in India (/wiki/India) , especially in Maharashtra (/wiki/Maharashtra) and South India (/wiki/South_India) . It is a single, rectangular piece of fabric and may have decorated borders. An angavastra may be worn with a dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) and kurta (/wiki/Kurta) . An angavastra may be offered as a mark of respect to guests, elders and gurus (/wiki/Gurus) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Style and use [ edit ] Angavastra is a simple loose garment, usually paired or matching with dhoti color, draped over the shoulders. It is a traditional wear of South India and a profound fashion statement. Prime Minister Narendra Modi (/wiki/Narendra_Modi) wore karai veshti dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) , kurta (/wiki/Kurta) , and angavastram, the traditional attire during his visit to Arjuna's Penance, Krishna's Butterball (/wiki/Krishna%27s_Butterball) , the Pancha Rathas (/wiki/Pancha_Rathas) , and Shore Temple (/wiki/Shore_Temple) . [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) A weaver from Varanasi (/wiki/Varanasi) designed and wove a special silk (/wiki/Silk) angavastram incorporating Buddhist mantras for Narendra Modi. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) History [ edit ] The angavastram, a traditional garment worn by men in parts of South India and Maharashtra, has a long history rooted in Indian culture. This unstitched, rectangular piece of fabric is draped over the torso and shoulder, serving practical and symbolic purposes. The origins of the angavastram can be traced back to ancient times. It is believed to have evolved from the uttariya (/wiki/Uttariya) , a similar garment worn around the shoulders or waist, as evidenced by sculptures found at historical sites such as Sanchi and Amaravati. The word "angavastram" is derived from Sanskrit (/wiki/Sanskrit) , meaning "cloth for the body," reflecting its fundamental purpose. Historically, the angavastram was typically made of handspun cotton yarn, crafted using simple machinery. With the industrialization of the textile industry, production methods evolved. While cotton remains popular for everyday wear, silk angavastrams are often used for religious and formal occasions. The use of raw matka silk is particularly preferred for religious leaders and practitioners. [5] (#cite_note-5) In recent years, the angavastram has gained recognition beyond its traditional contexts. Some educational institutions in India have adopted it as part of their convocation attire, replacing colonial-era black robes. For example, in 2023, the University of Delhi (/wiki/Delhi_University) announced its decision to use angavastrams for its 99th convocation ceremony, citing a desire to move away from colonial influences. [6] (#cite_note-6) Despite its long history, the basic design and purpose of the angavastram have remained largely unchanged. It continues to be an important symbol of Indian culture, representing both tradition and practicality in modern times. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Rátnagiri and Sávantvádi" (https://books.google.com/books?id=mpBIAQAAMAAJ) . Gazetteer of the Bombay Presidency . 10 : 112. 1880 . Retrieved 10 May 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Veshti-Shirt-Angavastram; PM Modi dons the traditional Tamil Nadu outfit for Jinping meet" (https://zeenews.india.com/india/veshti-shirt-angavastram-pm-modi-dons-the-traditional-tamil-nadu-outfit-for-jinping-meet-2239658.html) . Zee News . 2019-10-11 . Retrieved 2021-01-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "veshti: Latest News & Videos, Photos about veshti \| The Economic Times" (https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/topic/veshti) . The Economic Times . Retrieved 2021-01-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-:0_4-0) "Special 'angavastram' awaits PM Modi in Varanasi" (http://www.daijiworld.com/news/newsDisplay.aspx?newsID=776342) . www.daijiworld.com . Retrieved 2021-01-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Information About Silk Dhoti and Angavastram" (https://www.utsavpedia.com/attires/angavastram-thundu/) . Utsavpedia. 2017-03-19 . Retrieved 2024-07-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Delhi University to replace robes with angavastra for convocation: Why are robes and caps worn at graduation?" (https://indianexpress.com/article/explained/explained-culture/delhi-university-angavastra-convocation-8426418/) . The Indian Express. 2023-02-17 . 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American camouflage and outdoor lifestyle company This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Mossy_Oak) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Mossy_Oak) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Mossy_Oak) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. 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( June 2018 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Mossy Oak Company type Private (/wiki/Private_company) Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Founded 1986 Founder Toxey Haas (/wiki/Toxey_Haas) Headquarters West Point, MS (/wiki/West_Point,_MS) , United States Key people Toxey Haas (/wiki/Toxey_Haas) (CEO) Bill Sugg (President and CFO) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Haas Outdoors Website www (https://www.mossyoak.com/) .mossyoak (https://www.mossyoak.com/) .com (https://www.mossyoak.com/) Mossy Oak is brand of an outdoor clothing and equipment overseen by Haas Outdoors, Inc. founded by Toxey Haas (/wiki/Toxey_Haas) in 1986 in West Point, Mississippi (/wiki/West_Point,_Mississippi) . History [ edit ] Haas, an avid outdoorsman, gained inspiration from the natural twigs, leaves, and dirt in the woods. He named it Mossy Oak, gathered up a handful and decided to find someone who could print a fabric resembling this. Crystal Springs Print Works in Georgia printed his first pattern, making an exception to their usual 10,000 yard fabric minimum, as Haas only had enough money for 800 yards. [1] (#cite_note-1) In 2000, the apparel operations for Haas Outdoors, Inc. were acquired by Russell Brands (/wiki/Russell_Corporation) for an undisclosed amount. This became known as the Mossy Oak Apparel Company, which produces clothing under license from Haas Outdoors. [2] (#cite_note-2) Nativ Nurseries [ edit ] Founded in 2007, Mossy Oak Nativ Nurseries is headquartered in West Point and grows and sells trees for landowners. [3] (#cite_note-3) Gamekeeper Kennels [ edit ] Mossy Oak Gamekeeper Kennels breeds and trains Labrador retrievers (/wiki/Labrador_retriever) in West Point, Mississippi. Bill Gibson is the Director of Gun Dog Operations. [4] (#cite_note-4) Mossy Oak Properties [ edit ] Mossy Oak Properties is a real estate agency (/wiki/Real_estate_agency) founded in 1999. [5] (#cite_note-5) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Imes, Birney. "Toxey Haas' Great Outdoors". Catfish Alley. Spring 2012: 62–67. Print. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Russell Corporation - Company Profile, Information, Business Description, History, Background Information on Russell Corporation" (http://www.referenceforbusiness.com/history2/48/Russell-Corporation.html) . www.referenceforbusiness.com . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "About Us - Growing Better Trees" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120630071837/http://www.nativnurseries.com/t-aboutus.aspx) . www.nativnurseries.com . Archived from the original (http://www.nativnurseries.com/t-aboutus.aspx) on 2012-06-30 . Retrieved 2012-06-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Mossy Oak Gamekeeper Kennels" (https://www.filson.com/blog/profiles/mossy-oak-gamekeeper-kennels/) . www.filson.com . 10 October 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Mossy Oak Properties" (https://www.mossyoakproperties.com/about-us/) . www.mossyoakproperties.com . 5 December 2023. External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.mossyoak.com/) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/141076638) National United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/no2005026262) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐682w9 Cached time: 20240715061147 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.340 seconds Real time usage: 0.475 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1626/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 53431/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 10486/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 18/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 27240/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.237/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5071694/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 445.569 1 -total 32.26% 143.746 3 Template:Ambox 22.48% 100.155 1 Template:Infobox_company 21.77% 96.989 1 Template:Reflist 21.60% 96.254 1 Template:Multiple_issues 20.49% 91.283 1 Template:Infobox 18.96% 84.465 4 Template:Cite_web 17.34% 77.269 1 Template:Authority_control 14.81% 65.985 1 Template:Short_description 13.17% 58.701 1 Template:Refimprove Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:36275008-0!canonical and timestamp 20240715061147 and revision id 1218173592. 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Articles related to brands of luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) owned by Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) . NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐895674c4f‐dgczj Cached time: 20240717053646 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.002 seconds Real time usage: 0.006 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 0/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 1/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 0/5000000 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 0.000 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:5325892-0!canonical and timestamp 20240717053646 and revision id 938790991. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has only the following subcategory. Y Yves Saint Laurent (brand) (/wiki/Category:Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) ‎ (13 P) Pages in category "Gucci brands" The following 3 pages are in this category, out of 3 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . B Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) Y Yves Saint Laurent (fashion house) (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(fashion_house)) Τ Template:PPR (company) (/wiki/Template:PPR_(company)) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Gucci_brands&oldid=938790991 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Gucci_brands&oldid=938790991) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Gucci (/wiki/Category:Gucci) Brands by company (/wiki/Category:Brands_by_company) Kering brands (/wiki/Category:Kering_brands)
American photographer Greg Kadel is an American fashion photographer (/wiki/Fashion_photography) and filmmaker based in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) . Biography [ edit ] Kadel was born and raised in Pennsylvania (/wiki/Pennsylvania) . He moved to New York to study marine biology (/wiki/Marine_biology) and fine art (/wiki/Fine_art) . It was only after graduation (/wiki/Graduation) he realized his passion for photography (/wiki/Photography) and filmmaking (/wiki/Filmmaking) . He now spends his time living between New York, Paris (/wiki/Paris) , and Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) . [1] (#cite_note-SS-1) Career [ edit ] Kadel's images have appeared in publications including American Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Vogue Italia , Vogue Nippon , Vogue UK , L'Uomo Vogue , French Vogue , Vogue Germany , Vogue China , Numéro (/wiki/Num%C3%A9ro) , Numéro Homme , [2] (#cite_note-2) Visionaire , i-D (/wiki/I-D) , The Face , Another Magazine (/wiki/Another_Magazine) , King Kong Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) , Dansk , W Jewelry, British GQ , 10 Magazine (/wiki/10_Magazine_(UK)) , Allure (/wiki/Allure_(magazine)) , Inside View , V (/wiki/V_(American_magazine)) , and Melody . [3] (#cite_note-Bio-3) His advertising clients include or have included Aveda (/wiki/Aveda) , Express (/wiki/Express_(clothing_retailer)) , Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_SpA) , Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) , H&M (/wiki/H%26M) , Max Mara, Loewe, Oscar de la Renta (/wiki/Oscar_de_la_Renta) , Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) , [3] (#cite_note-Bio-3) Biotherm (/wiki/Biotherm) , Diane von Fürstenberg (/wiki/Diane_von_F%C3%BCrstenberg) , Elie Tahari (/wiki/Elie_Tahari) , Hermès, Lancôme (/wiki/Lanc%C3%B4me) , L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) , Max Mara (/wiki/Max_Mara) , Shiseido (/wiki/Shiseido) , Victoria's Secret (/wiki/Victoria%27s_Secret) , and Salvatore Ferragamo (/wiki/Salvatore_Ferragamo) . [1] (#cite_note-SS-1) Kadel’s celebrity clients include Britney Spears (/wiki/Britney_Spears) , Casey Affleck (/wiki/Casey_Affleck) , Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) , Ioan Gruffudd (/wiki/Ioan_Gruffudd) , Claire Danes (/wiki/Claire_Danes) , Ben Chaplin (/wiki/Ben_Chaplin) , Maurizio Cattelan (/wiki/Maurizio_Cattelan) , Kiera Chaplin (/wiki/Kiera_Chaplin) , Hedi Slimane (/wiki/Hedi_Slimane) , [3] (#cite_note-Bio-3) and Megan Fox (/wiki/Megan_Fox) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Sexual misconduct allegations [ edit ] In a February 2018 story in the Boston Globe (/wiki/The_Boston_Globe) , two women accused Kadel of sexual misconduct. As a consequence of the allegations, Kadel lost contracts with Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) and Victoria's Secret (/wiki/Victoria%27s_Secret) . [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) Kadel has denied the allegations. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Greg Kadel's Biography on Show Studio (https://web.archive.org/web/20070212045609/http://www.showstudio.com/contributors/482) ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Greg Kadel's Client List" (http://models.com/people/greg-kadel) . Models.com. ^ Jump up to: a b c Greg Kadel's Biography on his Website (http://www.gregkadelstudios.com/lib/bio.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090423112537/http://www.gregkadelstudios.com/lib/bio.html) 2009-04-23 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Greg Kadel's Photos of Megan Fox" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100521082454/http://iconology.therndm.com/archive/early-megan-fox-greg-kadel/359) . Archived from the original (http://iconology.therndm.com/archive/early-megan-fox-greg-kadel/359) on 2010-05-21 . Retrieved 2009-08-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Jenn Abelson and Sacha Pfeiffer (February 16, 2018). "Modeling's glamour hides web of abuse" (https://www.bostonglobe.com/metro/2018/02/16/beauty-and-ugly-truth/c7r0WVsF5cib1pLWXJe9dP/story.html) . The Boston Globe (/wiki/The_Boston_Globe) . Retrieved October 4, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Bernstein, Jacob; Friedman, Vanessa; Schneier, Matthew (2018-03-03). "Many Accusations, Few Apologies" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/03/style/sexual-harassment-in-fashion.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2019-04-18 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Mau, Dhani (16 February 2018). "Karl Templer and Patrick DeMarchlier accused of sexual misconduct" (https://fashionista.com/2018/02/patrick-demarchelier-karl-templer-sexual-assault-allegations) . Fashionista . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Patrick Demarchelier, Karl Templer Named in Boston Globe Report on Sexual Misconduct" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/boston-globe-spotlight-team-report-alleges-sexual-misconduct-by-patrick-demarchelier-karl-templer-and-more) . The Business of Fashion . 2018-02-16 . Retrieved 2019-04-18 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://gregkadelstudios.com/) Greg Kadel (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/photographers/greg-kadel/) at FMD (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) Greg Kadel's Portfolio at Marek and Associates (http://marekandassociates.com/view.cfm?id=4) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : Artists Photographers' Identities (https://pic.nypl.org/constituents/19510) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.eqiad.main‐b98b849b7‐hgcql Cached time: 20240703021113 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.451 seconds Real time usage: 0.648 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 656/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 14757/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 473/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 28590/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.320/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4299508/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 609.744 1 -total 40.22% 245.265 1 Template:Reflist 23.47% 143.110 1 Template:Authority_control 23.13% 141.008 3 Template:Cite_web 15.84% 96.562 1 Template:Short_description 14.84% 90.504 1 Template:Official_website 9.45% 57.593 2 Template:Pagetype 6.89% 42.027 1 Template:Webarchive 5.45% 33.204 3 Template:Cite_news 4.29% 26.130 1 Template:FMD_photographer Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:23864735-0!canonical and timestamp 20240703021134 and revision id 1232307032. 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Long-gown-like dress Peshwaj ( peshwaz , paswaj , tilluck , dress) was a ladies outfit similar to a gown or jama coat (/wiki/Jama_(coat)) with front open, tied around the waist, having full sleeves, and the length was full neck to heels. Peshwaj was one of the magnificent costumes of the mughal court ladies (/wiki/Lady-in-waiting) . The material was used to be sheer and fine muslins (/wiki/Muslin) with decorated borders of zari (/wiki/Zari) and lacework. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) Style [ edit ] The ladies' attire was a combination of Peshwaj, trousers, decorative patka , a cap (edged with lace or brocade), shaluka (/wiki/Shaluka) , angia (/wiki/Angia_(garment)) (bodice) and an odhani to cover the upper part of the body and head. The central opening of Peshwaj was covered by the phentas tucked in at the waist. [6] (#cite_note-6) The Mughal Paintings (/wiki/Mughal_painting) depicted ladies wearing various outfits such as Peshwaj and heavy jewelry. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) It was a famous costume in the 17th century for both Hindu and Muslim ladies. [9] (#cite_note-:2-9) Peshwaj was paired with Ekpatta (/wiki/Ekpatta) . [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) Mentions [ edit ] There are eleven types of such coats are mentioned in the Ain-i-Akbari (/wiki/Ain-i-Akbari) , Abu'l-Fazl ibn Mubarak (/wiki/Abu%27l-Fazl_ibn_Mubarak) explained Takauchiyah was a coat with round skirt tied on the right side. And Peshwaj, as an open in front and tied in front. Added to the same there were sixty ornamental stitches for these royal coats. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) Present [ edit ] Peshwaj is in use in many parts of India. [9] (#cite_note-:2-9) It is a much-appreciated costume for wedding ceremonies in India (/wiki/India) and Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) . Bhakhtawar Bhutto (/wiki/Benazir_Bhutto) wore a pink Peshwaj dress at her engagement. [15] (#cite_note-15) Soha Ali Khan (/wiki/Soha_Ali_Khan) wore Ritu Kumar (/wiki/Ritu_Kumar) designed Peshwaz dress at her Mehndi (/wiki/Mehndi) . [16] (#cite_note-16) Khushi Kapoor was praised when she donned the Peshwaz dress designed by Manish Malhotra (/wiki/Manish_Malhotra) . [17] (#cite_note-17) See also [ edit ] Shaluka (/wiki/Shaluka) Jama (coat) (/wiki/Jama_(coat)) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Sodhi, Jiwan (1999). A Study of Bundi School of Painting . Abhinav Publications. pp. 27, 91, 224. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-7017-347-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-:1_2-0) Goswamy, B. N. (1993). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles . D.S. Mehta. p. 156. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Agrawal, C. M. (1993). Dimensions of Indian Womanhood . Shri Almora Book Depot. p. 298. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-85865-02-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Verma, S. P. (2002). Art and Culture: Painting and Perspective . Abhinav Publications. p. 106. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-7017-405-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Sharīf, Jaʻfar (1863). Qanoon-e-Islam: Or the Customs of the Mussulmans of India . Higginbotham. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Goswamy, B. N. (2002). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles . D.S. Mehta. p. 42. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-86980-24-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) ''Abul Fazl , Ain - i - Akbari , vol.III , Pers . Text , P. 144 ; Gulbadan Humayun Nama . Tr . ( Bev ) to face page 162 ; the Painting shows some Mughal ladies wearing Peshwaz ; also Abdul Majid Salik Muslim Saqafat ( Urdu ) p . 461 ; also Shibli ...'' Muslim Women in Medieval India - Page 81books.google.co.in › books (https://books.google.com/books?id=TogbAAAAIAAJ&q=pe) Zinat Kausar · 1992 (https://books.google.com/books?id=TogbAAAAIAAJ&q=pe) ^ (#cite_ref-8) Goswamy, B. N. (2002). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles . D.S. Mehta. p. 65. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-86980-24-8 . ^ Jump up to: a b ''By the seventeenth century, the peshwaz had become very fashionable in the Muslim and Northern Hindu courts and is seen with similar long gowns in many paintings of the time. The Gita Govinda series of miniatures from the Punjab hills ...'' Page 246, 248 Costumes and Textiles of Royal India - Page 246books.google.co.in › books (https://books.google.com/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&q=Peshwaz+dress) Ritu Kumar, Cathy Muscat · 2006 (https://books.google.com/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&q=Peshwaz+dress) ^ (#cite_ref-10) Dimensions of Indian womanhood . Almora, U.P. Hills, India: Shri Almora Book Depot. 1993. p. 298. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-85865-05-8 . These ladies also used a veil called ekpatta and the angia or bodice under the gown. Besides, they used the Sarwar and slippers with pointed toes. In some cases the Kurta and Muhurum replaced the Peshwaj and winter brought into use an embroidered shawl ^ (#cite_ref-11) Martin, Robert Montgomery (2012-06-14). The History, Antiquities, Topography, and Statistics of Eastern India: In Relation to Their Geology, Mineralogy, Botany, Agriculture, Commerce, Manufactures, Fine Arts, Population, Religion, Education, Statistics, Etc . Cambridge University Press. pp. 103, 104. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-108-04652-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Crooke, William (1888). Rural and agricultural glossary for the N.W. Provinces and Oudh . Superintendent of Government Printing, Calcutta. p. 91. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Congress, Indian History (1954). Proceedings of the Indian History Congress . p. 212. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Chopra, Pran Nath (1963). Some Aspects of Society & Culture During the Mughal Age (1526-1707) . Shiva Lal Agarwala. p. 4. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Rehman, Maliha (2020-11-30). "A closer look at Bakhtawar Bhutto-Zardari's engagement outfit by Nida Azwer" (https://images.dawn.com/news/1186089) . Images . Retrieved 2021-01-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Desk, India TV News (2015-01-24). "Soha Ali Khan's mehendi ceremony: Bride along with Kareena, Saif look all happy (see inside pics)" (https://www.indiatvnews.com/entertainment/bollywood/soha-ali-khan-mehendi-inside-pics-20252.html) . www.indiatvnews.com . Retrieved 2021-01-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Roundup 2020: Celebs who ruled hearts with Manish Malhotra's ethnic designs" (https://www.siasat.com/roundup-2020-celebs-who-ruled-hearts-with-manish-malhotras-ethnic-designs-2052901/) . The Siasat Daily . 2020-12-25 . Retrieved 2021-01-19 . v t e Historical clothing (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings Body-length (/wiki/Suit) Abolla (/wiki/Abolla) Banyan (/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)) Brunswick (/wiki/Brunswick_(clothing)) Court dress (Empire of Japan) (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_Empire_of_Japan) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Frock (/wiki/Frock) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) Paenula (/wiki/Paenula) Peplos (/wiki/Peplos) Stola (/wiki/Stola) Toga (/wiki/Toga) Tunic (/wiki/Tunic) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bedgown (/wiki/Bedgown) Bodice (/wiki/Bodice) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Peascod belly (/wiki/Peascod_belly) Poet shirt (/wiki/Poet_shirt) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Braccae (/wiki/Braccae) Breeches (/wiki/Breeches) Sompot Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Culottes (/wiki/Culottes) Harem (/wiki/Harem_pants) Knickerbockers (/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Saragüells (/w/index.php?title=Sarag%C3%BCells&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ca (https://ca.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarag%C3%BCells) ] Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) Hobble (/wiki/Hobble_skirt) Poodle (/wiki/Poodle_skirt) Safeguard (/wiki/Safeguard_(costume)) Sompot (/wiki/Sompot) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) Bliaut (/wiki/Bliaut) Close-bodied gown (/wiki/Close-bodied_gown) Debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Gown (/wiki/Gown) Kirtle (/wiki/Kirtle) Mantua (/wiki/Mantua_(clothing)) Polonaise (/wiki/Polonaise_(clothing)) Robe de cour (/wiki/Robe_de_cour) Sack-back gown (/wiki/Sack-back_gown) Sailor (/wiki/Sailor_dress) Tea gown (/wiki/Tea_gown) Zaju chuishao fu (/wiki/Zaju_chuishao_fu) Outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Capote (/wiki/Capote_(garment)) Car coat (/wiki/Car_coat) Caraco (/wiki/Caraco) Cardinal cloak (/wiki/Cardinal_cloak) Chamail (/wiki/Chamail_(clothing)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) Kinsale cloak (/wiki/Kinsale_cloak) Dolman (/wiki/Dolman) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Exomis (/wiki/Exomis) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Houppelande (/wiki/Houppelande) Inverness cape (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin) Kandys (/wiki/Kandys) Mackinaw jacket (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Nadiri (/wiki/Nadiri) Norfolk jacket (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) Overfrock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Pañuelo (/wiki/Pa%C3%B1uelo) Palla (/wiki/Palla_(garment)) Pallium (/wiki/Pallium_(Roman_cloak)) Pelisse (/wiki/Pelisse) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Galway shawl (/wiki/Galway_shawl) Kullu (/wiki/Kullu_shawl) Smock-frock (/wiki/Smock-frock) Spencer (/wiki/Spencer_(clothing)) Surcoat (/wiki/Surcoat) Surtout (/wiki/Surtout) Ulster coat (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Visite (/wiki/Visite) Witzchoura 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Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) The main article for this category (/wiki/Help:Categories) is Neckties (/wiki/Neckties) . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Neckties (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Neckties) . NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐l5vxh Cached time: 20240720172017 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.070 seconds Real time usage: 0.112 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 166/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 3934/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 244/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 2569/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.043/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 1511777/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 99.771 1 -total 48.04% 47.933 1 Template:Commons_category 46.17% 46.064 1 Template:Sister_project 44.42% 44.320 1 Template:Side_box 33.52% 33.439 1 Template:Portal 25.48% 25.419 2 Template:If_then_show 18.21% 18.173 1 Template:Cat_main Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:7222410-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720172017 and revision id 1127516494. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has only the following subcategory. N Necktie knots (/wiki/Category:Necktie_knots) ‎ (8 P) Pages in category "Neckties" The following 18 pages are in this category, out of 18 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . Necktie (/wiki/Necktie) A Ascot tie (/wiki/Ascot_tie) B Bolo tie (/wiki/Bolo_tie) Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) C Tie clip (/wiki/Tie_clip) Clip-on tie (/wiki/Clip-on_tie) Collar pin (/wiki/Collar_pin) Continental tie (/wiki/Continental_tie) Countess Mara (/wiki/Countess_Mara) Cravat (early) (/wiki/Cravat_(early)) D Vicky Davis (/wiki/Vicky_Davis) F Focale (/wiki/Focale) J Jabot (neckwear) (/wiki/Jabot_(neckwear)) K Kipper tie (/wiki/Kipper_tie) S School tie (/wiki/School_tie) Stock tie (/wiki/Stock_tie) T Tie chain (/wiki/Tie_chain) Tie pin (/wiki/Tie_pin) Media in category "Neckties" This category contains only the following file. Robespierre cropped.jpg (/wiki/File:Robespierre_cropped.jpg) 301 × 301; 26 KB esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Neckties&oldid=1127516494 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Neckties&oldid=1127516494) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Neckwear (/wiki/Category:Neckwear) Suits (clothing) (/wiki/Category:Suits_(clothing)) Hidden category: Commons category link from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_from_Wikidata)
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British designer This article is an orphan (/wiki/Wikipedia:Orphan) , as no other articles link to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:WhatLinksHere&target=Ben_Copperwheat&namespace=0) . Please introduce links (/wiki/Help:Link) to this page from related articles (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special%3ASearch&redirs=1&search=Ben+Copperwheat&fulltext=Search&ns0=1&title=Special%3ASearch&advanced=1&fulltext=Ben+Copperwheat) ; try the Find link tool (https://edwardbetts.com/find_link?q=Ben_Copperwheat) for suggestions. ( September 2016 ) Ben Copperwheat Born ( 1975-09-30 ) 30 September 1975 (age 48) Luton (/wiki/Luton) , UK Occupation(s) Print designer and artist Website bencopperwheat (http://bencopperwheat.com) .com (http://bencopperwheat.com) Ben Copperwheat is a UK-born print designer / artist living and working in Williamsburg, Brooklyn (/wiki/Williamsburg,_Brooklyn) , New York City. Career [ edit ] Ben Copperwheat began his career by teaching textiles in the fashion department of Northumbria University (/wiki/Northumbria_University) in England. Upon arriving in New York City in 2003, he worked as a print designer for Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) Jeans where he also designed print collections for Stephen Burrows (/wiki/Stephen_Burrows_(designer)) , Sue Stemp (/w/index.php?title=Sue_Stemp&action=edit&redlink=1) and Peter Som (/wiki/Peter_Som) . From 2009 to 2012, he collaborated with his cousin, Lee Copperwheat on their own fashion label, COPPERWHEAT. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) As a freelance print designer, his work is commissioned by celebrities like Beyoncé Knowles (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9_Knowles) ' daughter Blue Ivy Carter (/wiki/Blue_Ivy_Carter) (2016 Super Bowl (/wiki/Super_Bowl) ), Boy George (/wiki/Boy_George) (for his 2016 Culture Club (/wiki/Culture_Club) Tour), and Liza Minnelli (/wiki/Liza_Minnelli) ( New York Magazine (/wiki/New_York_Magazine) , 2007). [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) In 2017, Ben Copperwheat painted a New York City Gay Pride parade float for the Gerald J. Friedman (/w/index.php?title=Gerald_J._Friedman&action=edit&redlink=1) Transgender Health and Wellness Program of Lenox Hospital (/w/index.php?title=Lenox_Hospital&action=edit&redlink=1) . He was commissioned by rock publicist Jane Friedman (publicist) (/w/index.php?title=Jane_Friedman_(publicist)&action=edit&redlink=1) who started the Howl Gallery (/w/index.php?title=Howl_Gallery&action=edit&redlink=1) . [8] (#cite_note-8) Some of Copperwheat's work is represented by Emmy-winning, Sex and the City (/wiki/Sex_and_the_City) costume designer, Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) . [9] (#cite_note-9) Teaching in the Fibers department at SCAD (https://www.scad.edu/academics/programs/fibers/faculty) [10] (#cite_note-10) since 2018, he was also an adjunct instructor at New York University (/wiki/New_York_University) . [11] (#cite_note-11) Education [ edit ] Ben Copperwheat graduated in 2001 with a M.A. Printed Textiles from the Royal College of Art (/wiki/Royal_College_of_Art) in London. [12] (#cite_note-12) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Copperwheat" (https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/copperwheat/) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Dazed (8 June 2010). "Catching Up With Copperwheat" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/7534/1/catching-up-with-copperwheat) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Editor, JamesMichael Nichols HuffPost Queer Voices Deputy (22 May 2015). "FABRICATIONS: Meet Queer Fashion Designer And Artist Ben Copperwheat" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/05/22/ben-copperwheat-fabrications_n_7424354.html) . HuffPost (/wiki/HuffPost) . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : \|last= has generic name ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#generic_name) ) ^ (#cite_ref-4) "INTERVIEW: Printmaking Fashion Designer Ben Copperwheat" (http://beautifulsavage.com/fashion/ben-copperwheat/) . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Designer Ben Copperwheat on What It's Like to Get Beyoncé (and Blue Ivy's) Stamp of Approval" (http://stylecaster.com/ben-copperwheat/) . 2 March 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Lidbury, Olivia (9 February 2016). "Meet the British designer custom-making clothes for Blue Ivy" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/brands/meet-the-british-designer-custom-making-clothes-for-blue-ivy/) . The Telegraph . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Introducing…Ben Copperwheat" (http://www.loverboymagazine.com/introducing-ben-copperwheat/) . Loverboy Magazine . Retrieved 22 September 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Ben Copperwheat Designs Pride Float to Celebrate New NYC Transgender Health Program" (https://www.out.com/pride/2017/6/24/ben-copperwheat-designs-pride-float-celebrate-new-nyc-transgender-health-program) . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Gaze Upon the Stunning Photos of Ben Copperwheat's Vibrant 'Rainbow Electric' (https://www.out.com/fashion/2018/6/15/gaze-upon-stunning-photos-ben-copperwheats-vibrant-rainbow-electric) " (https://www.out.com/fashion/2018/6/15/gaze-upon-stunning-photos-ben-copperwheats-vibrant-rainbow-electric) . 15 June 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Fibers Faculty" (https://www.scad.edu/academics/programs/fibers/faculty) . SCAD.edu . Retrieved 11 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Faculty Profile: Ben Copperwheat, Adjunct Instructor \| NYU SPS Professional Pathways" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160913201350/https://sps.nyu.edu/professional-pathways/faculty/18581-ben-copperwheat.html) . Archived from the original (https://sps.nyu.edu/professional-pathways/faculty/18581-ben-copperwheat.html) on 13 September 2016 . Retrieved 31 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Ben Copperwheat" (http://www.rca.ac.uk/studying-at-the-rca/the-rca-experience/student-voices/alumni-stories/ben-copperwheat/) . 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American author and editor Jessica Daves Born ( 1898-02-20 ) February 20, 1898 Cartersville, Georgia (/wiki/Cartersville,_Georgia) Died September 22, 1974 (1974-09-22) (aged 76) New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) Nationality American Occupation(s) advertizing executive, magazine editor, author Known for edited Vogue magazine during an influential period Spouse Robert Allerton Parker (/w/index.php?title=Robert_Allerton_Parker&action=edit&redlink=1) Jessica Daves (February 20, 1898 – September 22, 1974) was an American (/wiki/American_people) writer and editor. [1] (#cite_note-nytimes1974-09-24-1) She is best known for serving as editor-in-chief of influential Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) magazine, from 1952 to 1962. Biography [ edit ] Daves was born in Cartersville, Georgia, in 1898, but moved to New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , in 1921, where she worked in the advertising industry. [1] (#cite_note-nytimes1974-09-24-1) She first started to work as a fashion merchandising editor at Vogue in 1933, and was promoted to managing editor in 1936. [1] (#cite_note-nytimes1974-09-24-1) In 1952, she became editor in chief of Vogue and later retired in 1963. [1] (#cite_note-nytimes1974-09-24-1) She is distinctly known for the promotion of American ready-to-wear during her time at Vogue. A fashion writer noted, "She spotted the trend, and her major fashion impact was to make ready‐to‐wear chic." [1] (#cite_note-nytimes1974-09-24-1) She wrote or co-wrote three books: The Vogue Book of Menus, Ready‐Made Miracle: The Story of American Fashion for the ' Millions ' and The World in Vogue . [1] (#cite_note-nytimes1974-09-24-1) In 2019, fashion historian Rebecca Tuite (/wiki/Rebecca_Tuite) published an account of her Vogue editorship, 1950s in Vogue: The Jessica Daves Years, 1952-1962 . [2] (#cite_note-TuiteVogue1952-1962-2) References [ edit ] ^ a b c d e f Whitman, Alden (/wiki/Alden_Whitman) (24 September 1974). "Jessica Daves of Vogue Is Dead; Favored Ready-to-Wear Trend" (https://www.nytimes.com/1974/09/24/archives/jessica-daves-of-vogue-is-dead-favored-readytowear-trend-went.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Page 53, columns 1-3 . Retrieved 24 November 2023 . Jessica Daves, editor in chief of Vogue in the nineteen-fifties, died Sunday of cancer at her home, 1040 Park Avenue. ^ (#cite_ref-TuiteVogue1952-1962_2-0) Tuite, Rebecca (2019). 1950s in Vogue: The Jessica Daves Years, 1952-1962 . Thames & Hudson (/wiki/Thames_%26_Hudson) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780500294376 . Media offices Preceded by Edna Woolman Chase (/wiki/Edna_Woolman_Chase) Editor of American Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) 1952–1962 Succeeded by Diana Vreeland (/wiki/Diana_Vreeland) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/1920158005992802100001) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/1203164165) Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007294172605171) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/no93037904) Other IdRef (https://www.idref.fr/252240472) This biographical article about a print editor of the United States is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jessica_Daves&action=edit) . v t e This article about an American writer is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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< User:Shardsofblue (/wiki/User:Shardsofblue) Needle Lace (/wiki/Needle_Lace) borders from the Erzgebirge (/wiki/Erzgebirge) mountains Germany in 1884 (/wiki/1884) , displayed in the Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) . Needle Lace (/wiki/Needle_Lace) , detail Detatched Buttonhole (/wiki/Buttonhole) Stitch Needle lace (also known as needlelace or needle-made lace ) is a type of lace (/wiki/Lace) created using a needle (/wiki/Sewing_needle) and thread (/wiki/Thread) to stitch up hundreds of small stitches to form the lace itself. It is also used to create the fillings or insertions in cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) . Technique [ edit ] Overview [ edit ] In its purest form the only equipment and materials used are a needle, thread and scissors. This form of lace making originated in Armenia (/wiki/Armenia) where there is evidence of a lace making (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) tradition dating back to the pre-christian era. Beginning in the 17th century in Italy, a variety of styles developed where the work is started by securing heavier guiding threads onto a stiff background (such as thick paper) with stitches that can later be removed. The work is then built up using a variety of stitches - the most basic being a variety of buttonhole (/wiki/Buttonhole_stitch) or blanket stitch (/wiki/Blanket_stitch) . When the entire area is covered with the stitching, the stay-stitches are released and the lace comes away from the paper (see reticella (/wiki/Reticella) ). This method was later adapted to make use of inexpensive cloths (such as muslin (/wiki/Muslin) ) as a backing. The muslin can be pinned to a pillow (such as the type used in bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) ) or stretched across an embroidery hoop (/wiki/Embroidery_hoop) to create the required stiffness. Step by Step [ edit ] The following is a step by step example of one modern method of creating needle lace. Making Needle Lace 1. Choose a simple line-drawn pattern and ink it onto an inexpensive, non-textured piece of cloth, such as muslin. The appearance of the cloth is of no consequence, as you will be removing the lace from the cloth when it is finished. Only be sure you can clearly see your design. 2. Stretch the cloth across an embroidery hoop so that your design shows clearly in the center. 3. Select a thread which is approximately 4 times thicker than the thread you plan to use for the filling stitches. This thread will be used to outline your pattern and provide an anchor for your stitches. The color does not matter, as it will be covered with a finer thread later. 4. Tack down the outline thread with a thin thread (the tacking thread should be the same thickness as the filling thread), tacking it down at regular intervals. Place the tacks only as close as they need to be to maintain the shape of the outline; remember that you will be applying tension between the outline threads later, which will distort your image if you have not tacked the outline thread with this in mind. You will not puncture the cloth again during this project. 5. Now you can begin stitching. Anchor your filling thread by drawing it parallel to a section of your outline thread, between the outline thread and its anchor thread. Then begin a row of detatched buttonhole (/wiki/Buttonhole_stitch) stitches across the top of the outline thread without puncturing the material. Do not pull them tight, but leave a small row of loops. At the end of the row, wind the thread once around the outline thread to bring it down to the next row. This row is now the "outline thread" for the next row. 6. Progress back along your first row with another row of button hole stitches, using the loops you left in your first row as anchors for the next one. Only place one stitch in each loop. Continue in this vein until the open area is filled with buttonhole stitches, then move on to the next open area. Variations of stitch can be obtained by varying the width of the buttonhole and the number of stitches placed in each loop. It is advisable to only place one type of stitch in each open section of the pattern. 7. Once all the open areas are filled with buttonholes, cover the outline thread with a close buttonhole stitch to provide a finished look. Again, do not puncture the material. 8. The only threads which should have punctured the cloth are the tacking stitches from step 4. Snip these stitches carefully away from the back of the cloth and lift the completed piece of lace away from its pattern. History [ edit ] Related Articles [ edit ] Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) References [ edit ] "Structures of Antique Lace" (http://www.marlamallett.com/lace.htm) . A collection of Antique Laces . Retrieved July 26, 2005 . This article about textiles (/wiki/Textile) is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=User:Shardsofblue/Needle_Lace&action=edit) . v t e v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Category:Lace (/wiki/Category:Lace) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐dc899b7cc‐69lrc Cached time: 20240719142331 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.440 seconds Real time usage: 0.511 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 358/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 31745/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 91/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 14740/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.312/10.000 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American fashion designer This biography of a living person (/wiki/Wikipedia:Biographies_of_living_persons) needs additional citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help by adding reliable sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Reliable_sources) . Contentious material (/wiki/Wikipedia:BLPREMOVE) about living persons that is unsourced or poorly sourced (/wiki/Wikipedia:QUESTIONABLE) must be removed immediately from the article and its talk page, especially if potentially libelous (/wiki/Wikipedia:Libel) . Find sources: "Salvatore J. Cesarani" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Salvatore+J.+Cesarani%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Salvatore+J.+Cesarani%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Salvatore+J.+Cesarani%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Salvatore+J.+Cesarani%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Salvatore+J.+Cesarani%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Salvatore+J.+Cesarani%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( August 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Salvatore J. Cesarani Born ( 1939-09-25 ) September 25, 1939 (age 84) New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) Awards Coty Award (/wiki/Coty_Award) for Menswear- 1974, 1975, 1976 [1] (#cite_note-tfe-1) Sal Cesarani is an American fashion designer particularly known for his tailored (/wiki/Tailored) menswear (/wiki/Fashion) , which has made him a triple- Coty Award (/wiki/Coty_Award) winner. Early life and education [ edit ] Sal Cesarani was born Salvatore J. Cesarani on September 25, 1939, New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , to Vincenzo and Carmela Cesarani. He is a graduate of the High School of Fashion Industries (/wiki/High_School_of_Fashion_Industries) and the State University of New York (/wiki/State_University_of_New_York) . [2] (#cite_note-cfda-2) Between 1959 and 1961 he studied design at the Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) , New York. [1] (#cite_note-tfe-1) He married Nancy Staluppi on September 29, 1962. They have two children. Career [ edit ] Cesarani started out in 1961 as a junior designer for Bobby Brooks, a women's sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) company, and as a window dresser (/wiki/Window_dresser) for Paul Stuart's menswear store. Between 1970 and 1972, he was a merchandising director for Polo Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Polo_Ralph_Lauren) . He began designing under the label Country Britches from 1973–1975, and briefly designed for Stanley Blacker before founding his New York based fashion label, Cesarani Ltd in 1976. [1] (#cite_note-tfe-1) It started as a menswear brand, with womenswear introduced the following year. The Cesarani brand was relaunched in 1993. Cesarani menswear is noted for its styling and adventurousness, drawing inspiration from sports clothing (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) , classic 1930s and 1940s slouchy tailoring, and the style of Cary Grant (/wiki/Cary_Grant) and Gary Cooper (/wiki/Gary_Cooper) . [1] (#cite_note-tfe-1) He deliberately avoids the mundane, favoring unexpected touches such as peaked lapels on single-breasted jackets or tartan (/wiki/Tartan) evening blazers. [1] (#cite_note-tfe-1) His work has been described as Anglo-American, combining the quality of British tailoring with American sensibility. [1] (#cite_note-tfe-1) He designed the uniforms for the Olympic torch (/wiki/Olympic_torch) -bearers and ceremonial officials at the 1980 Winter Olympics (/wiki/1980_Winter_Olympics) . [1] (#cite_note-tfe-1) He also created a strip (/wiki/Football_strip) for the short-lived soccer (/wiki/Soccer) team Philadelphia Fury (/wiki/Philadelphia_Fury_(1978%E2%80%9380)) . [3] (#cite_note-3) In 1980, he dressed Lucie Arnaz (/wiki/Lucie_Arnaz) in the TV film The Mating Season (/wiki/The_Mating_Season_(film)) . [4] (#cite_note-4) In addition to his ongoing design work, Sal Cesarani is a faculty member at the Parsons The New School for Design (/wiki/Parsons_The_New_School_for_Design) , where he teaches fashion design and the theory of fabric selection. [5] (#cite_note-5) He is also a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. [2] (#cite_note-cfda-2) Awards [ edit ] Sal Cesarani's menswear won him two Special Coty Awards (/wiki/Coty_Awards) for Menswear in 1974 and 1975 before winning the main Menswear Award in 1976. [1] (#cite_note-tfe-1) In 1982, he was awarded the Coty Menswear Return Award. He has also won the Fashion Group Award of Boston (1977). References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Martin, Richard; Sal Cesarani in the Fashion Encyclopaedia (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Bo-Ch/Cesarani-Sal.html) Accessed 2/3/2010. ^ Jump up to: a b Sal Cesarani's page at the CFDA site (http://www.cfda.com/members/?member_id=480&tab=a) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Wangerin, Dave; Soccer in a Football World, page 187. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Information page for (https://akas.imdb.com/title/tt0081140/combined) The Mating Season on IMDB.com (https://akas.imdb.com/title/tt0081140/combined) Accessed 2-3-2010 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Salvatore Cesarani at Parsons (http://www.newschool.edu/Parsons/faculty_program.aspx?id=47927) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120929222036/http://www.newschool.edu/Parsons/faculty_program.aspx?id=47927) 2012-09-29 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Further reading [ edit ] Bryan, Robert E. (2009). American Fashion Menswear . Assouline. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-7594-0409-4 . Hix, Charles (1984). Man Alive!: Dressing the Free Way . Simon and Schuster. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-671-60253-5 . Hix, Charles (1981). Dressing Right: A Guide for Men . St. Martins Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-312-21968-7 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.cesarani.com/) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5fff59fd7c‐96lgb Cached time: 20240625191128 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.315 seconds Real time usage: 0.452 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1923/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 18451/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1326/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 15027/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.200/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6287182/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 424.637 1 -total 34.80% 147.766 1 Template:Infobox_fashion_designer 20.06% 85.197 3 Template:Cite_book 16.43% 69.776 1 Template:Short_description 15.53% 65.927 1 Template:BLP_sources 14.14% 60.053 1 Template:Ambox 12.23% 51.943 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 10.11% 42.929 1 Template:Birth_date_and_age 9.04% 38.403 2 Template:Pagetype 8.13% 34.536 19 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:26380700-0!canonical and timestamp 20240625191128 and revision id 1121604674. 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British fashion designer (born 1947) Patricia Underwood, Baroness Moynihan of Chelsea ( née (/wiki/Birth_name#Maiden_and_married_names) Gilbert ; born 11 October 1947), is a milliner (/wiki/Milliner) who had her own company in New York City designing, manufacturing and marketing hats from 1976 to 2019. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) She continues with special commissions and other designs. Early life [ edit ] Underwood was born in Maidenhead, England, on 11 October 1947, the daughter of Humphrey Lestocq (/wiki/Humphrey_Lestocq) Gilbert and Elizabeth Gilbert, née Edwards. Her uncle was Jimmy Edwards (/wiki/Jimmy_Edwards) , the actor and comedian. Her christening was featured on Pathe News. [2] (#cite_note-2) She worked at Buckingham Palace (/wiki/Buckingham_Palace) as a secretary from 1966 to 1967. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [3] (#cite_note-:3-3) She attended the Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) in 1972. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) Career [ edit ] Underwood moved to New York in 1967, [3] (#cite_note-:3-3) and first worked as a secretary at United Artists from 1968 to 1969. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) She first began making hats when she took a hat-making night course at the Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) . [5] (#cite_note-5) Her work started to gain broader attention after stylist Polly Mellen (/wiki/Polly_Mellen) featured one of her hats on Lauren Hutton (/wiki/Lauren_Hutton) during a Richard Avedon (/wiki/Richard_Avedon) photo shoot. [6] (#cite_note-6) She manufactured hats with Lipp Holmfeld (Hats by Lipp) from 1973 to 1975. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) In 1976, she launched her own company, Patricia Underwood. She then launched Patricia Underwood Knit Collection in 1983 and she opened an in-store shop in Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) and Bergdorf Goodman (/wiki/Bergdorf_Goodman) . Over her career, her work featured extensively in every major fashion magazine, both in the US and internationally. At various times, she has designed and made hats for Perry Ellis (/wiki/Perry_Ellis) , Bill Blass (/wiki/Bill_Blass) , Oscar de la Renta (/wiki/Oscar_de_la_Renta) , Carolyne Roehm (/wiki/Carolyne_Roehm) , Donna Karan (/wiki/Donna_Karan) , Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) , Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) , Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) and others. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) She has collaborated with Perry Ellis (/wiki/Perry_Ellis) , Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) , Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) , Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) and others to create hats for the runway. [7] (#cite_note-7) Underwood is an emeritus Board member [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) both of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) and of Fashion Group International (/wiki/Fashion_Group_International) . She is the subject of the eponymous Rizzoli-produced book, Patricia Underwood: The Way You Wear Your Hat, [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) in which her career is extensively documented. Underwood's hats are in the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art#Costume_Institute) and the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) . [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) Awards [ edit ] 1983 - CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) Award (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) COTY Award (/wiki/COTY_Award) [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) American Accessories Achievement Award (/w/index.php?title=American_Accessories_Achievement_Award&action=edit&redlink=1) [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) Fashion Group International's (/wiki/Fashion_Group_International) Entrepreneur of the Year Award [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) Personal life [ edit ] Patricia Underwood married Reginald Underwood in 1967 (divorced, 1976) with whom she had one daughter, Vivecca, and in 1980 married Jon Moynihan (/wiki/Jon_Moynihan,_Baron_Moynihan_of_Chelsea) (now Baron Moynihan of Chelsea). [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) She splits her time between the UK and the US. References [ edit ] ^ a b c d e f "Patricia Underwood" (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/To-Vi/Underwood-Patricia.html) . Fashion Encyclopedia . Retrieved 2016-03-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "FLIGHT OFFICER KITE'S" BABY HOLDS CHRISTENING PARTY , retrieved 2022-12-13 ^ a b McDowell, Colin (1992). Hats . Rizzoli. p. 194. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8478-1572-2 . Retrieved 9 June 2020 . ^ a b c Martin, Richard (1995). Contemporary fashion . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1558621733 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Decker, Vivienne (1 September 2015). "First Look: Patricia Underwood's New Fall Hat Collection" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/viviennedecker/2015/09/01/first-look-patricia-underwoods-fall-collection/#18c1d1ca455a) . Forbes . Retrieved 9 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Wilson, Eric (22 April 2015). "Now You Know: What's So Appealing About a Hat, Anyway?" (https://www.instyle.com/news/now-you-know-whats-so-appealing-about-hat-anyway) . InStyle (/wiki/InStyle) . Retrieved 10 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Walker, Sam (29 April 2015). "Hats Off to Patricia Underwood" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/patricia-underwood-milliner-book/) . W Magazine (/wiki/W_Magazine) . Retrieved 9 June 2020 . ^ a b "CFDA" (https://cfda.com/members/profile/patricia-underwood) . cfda.com . Retrieved 2019-11-22 . ^ a b Mau, Dhani (30 May 2013). "10 CFDA Winners You've Probably Never Heard Of" (https://fashionista.com/2013/05/10-cfda-winners-youve-probably-never-heard-of) . Fashionista . Retrieved 10 June 2020 . ^ a b c Kirschner, Marilyn (29 April 2015). "In the Market Report: Patricia Underwood Book Signing & Cocktail Party" (https://lookonline.com/market-report-by-marilyn-kirschner/in-market-report-patricia-underwood/) . lookonline . Retrieved 10 June 2020 . 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Australian fashion designer Lisa Gorman Nationality Australian Occupation Fashion designer Known for Founder of Gorman (/wiki/Gorman_(brand)) Spouse Dean Angelucci (m. 2007) Children 2 Lisa Gorman is an Australian fashion designer. She established the women’s fashion label Gorman (/wiki/Gorman_(brand)) , developed the brand for 22 years, retiring as its creative director in 2021. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Early life [ edit ] Eldest of four daughters, Gorman grew up at the coastal town of Warrnambool (/wiki/Warrnambool) in Victoria. [3] (#cite_note-Gorman-3) After graduating in 1989 from St Ann's College (/wiki/Emmanuel_College,_Warrnambool) , an all-girls (/wiki/Single_sex_education) school in Warrnambool, [4] (#cite_note-4) she moved to Melbourne and studied nursing. [5] (#cite_note-Queen_of_Green-5) Gorman worked part-time at Royal Melbourne Hospital (/wiki/Royal_Melbourne_Hospital) for eight years. [6] (#cite_note-Guardian-6) Career [ edit ] Main article: Gorman (brand) (/wiki/Gorman_(brand)) Gorman (/wiki/Gorman_(brand)) store in Karrinyup Shopping Centre (/wiki/Karrinyup_Shopping_Centre) Gorman began her career in fashion as a designer for the Melbourne bridal couturier Mariana Hardwick. [7] (#cite_note-Vogue-7) In 1999, she launched her label, Gorman (/wiki/Gorman_(brand)) , with a collection titled ‘Less Than 12 Degrees’ at the now-defunct fat 52 boutique. [8] (#cite_note-VAMFF-8) By 2003, the label was stocked in 55 retailers in Australia and 15 in Japan. In 2004, she opened the first Gorman boutique in Prahran, Melbourne (/wiki/Prahran,_Victoria) . [3] (#cite_note-Gorman-3) In 2010, Gorman part-sold her brand to the fashion conglomerate Factory X, [9] (#cite_note-Ethical_Fail-9) citing that she wanted to remain focused on the designing and have assistance running the growing business. [5] (#cite_note-Queen_of_Green-5) By November 2021, Gorman had over 50 stores across Australia. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) By the mid-2010s, the label was considered one of the most "iconic" brands on the Australian fashion scene. [10] (#cite_note-10) In November 2023, Gorman became the creative director for stationery brand Kikki.K (/w/index.php?title=Kikki.K&action=edit&redlink=1) . [11] (#cite_note-11) Personal life [ edit ] Gorman lives in Fitzroy, Victoria (/wiki/Fitzroy,_Victoria) with her husband Dean Angelucci and their two daughters. [7] (#cite_note-Vogue-7) [12] (#cite_note-Herald_Sun-12) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "TDF Talks With Gorman Founder + Creative Director Lisa Gorman" (https://thedesignfiles.net/2018/04/tdf-talks-with-lisa-gorman/) . The Design Files . 4 April 2018 . Retrieved 21 June 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Fashion designer Lisa Gorman departs Gorman label after 22 years as creative director" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/nov/18/fashion-designer-lisa-gorman-departs-gorman-label-after-22-years-as-creative-director) . The Guardian . 18 November 2021 . Retrieved 18 December 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b Corso, Lisa Marie. "The Gorman Story" (https://www.gormanshop.com.au/aboutus/) . Gorman . Retrieved 21 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "About Lisa Gorman" (http://www.emmanuel.vic.edu.au/alumni/lisa-gorman) . Emmanuel College Warrnambool . Retrieved 23 June 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Wells, Rachel (14 March 2010). "Fashion's queen of green" (https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/fashions-queen-of-green-20100313-q4yv.html) . The Sydney Morning Herald . Retrieved 21 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-Guardian_6-0) Aouf, Rima (9 March 2019). " (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/mar/09/we-were-accused-of-all-sorts-lisa-gorman-on-learning-from-old-mistakes) 'We were accused of all sorts': Lisa Gorman on learning from old mistakes" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/mar/09/we-were-accused-of-all-sorts-lisa-gorman-on-learning-from-old-mistakes) . The Guardian . Retrieved 22 June 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Lisa Gorman's intimate wedding" (https://www.vogue.com.au/brides/news/lisa-gormans-intimate-wedding/news-story/3dd6d620c856a52362095e01f5f02840) . Vogue. 25 May 2012 . Retrieved 22 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-VAMFF_8-0) "Lisa Gorman" (https://vamff.com.au/speaker/lisa-gorman/) . VAMFF . Retrieved 22 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-Ethical_Fail_9-0) Au-Nhien Nguyen, Giselle (28 April 2016). "Why Gorman can't ignore its fans" (https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/gormans-loyal-fans-demand-answers-after-labels-ethical-fail-20160428-gogqc1.html) . The Sydney Morning Herald . Retrieved 23 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Understanding the ubiquitous cult of Gorman" (https://fashionjournal.com.au/fashion/fashion-news/understanding-the-ubiquitous-cult-of-gorman/) . Fashion Journal . 31 March 2016 . Retrieved 21 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Singer, Melissa (5 November 2023). "Good on paper: Lisa Gorman is writing her second act" (https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/good-on-paper-lisa-gorman-is-writing-her-second-act-20231031-p5ega7.html) . The Sydney Morning Herald . Retrieved 10 February 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-Herald_Sun_12-0) Crawford, Laeta (9 January 2016). "Fashion designer Lisa Gorman opens up about her favourite things" (https://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/inside-story-lisa-gorman-opens-up-about-her-favourite-things/news-story/9fc2045185ef5b7dc9e1bfe331435b20) . Herald Sun . Retrieved 23 June 2020 . 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Red dress by designer Mak Tumang Mayon gown Designer Mak Tumang (/wiki/Mak_Tumang) Year 2018 ( 2018 ) Type red, high-slit dress Material tulle (/wiki/Tulle_(netting)) Mayon gown is a red, high-slit dress made by Filipino fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_design) Mak Tumang (/wiki/Mak_Tumang) and worn by Catriona Gray (/wiki/Catriona_Gray) during the evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) competition in Miss Universe 2018 (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2018) , which she won. The dress is also called Mayon Volcano gown as its design was inspired by Albay's (/wiki/Albay) Mayon Volcano (/wiki/Mayon_volcano) , and later the dress became popularly known as the "lava gown" owing to its distinct fiery red to dark red color. [1] (#cite_note-:6-1) [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) It is one of the two well-known dresses Gray wore in the pageant, and it is credited for making Tumang a household name. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-:2-5) Design [ edit ] The Mayon gown is made of tulle (/wiki/Tulle_(netting)) encrusted with Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) crystals in 12-toned color palette that ranged from yellow to dark red. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) Its body-fitting, bare back design features a side cutout and a high slit that "highlighted Gray's legs." [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) The dress, which according to Tumang weighed 10 pounds, was a tribute to Mayon Volcano, a tourist attraction in the province of Albay, the hometown of Gray's mother. [11] (#cite_note-:5-11) [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) In an interview, Gray decided to pick the dress for the beauty contest as her mother dreamed of her winning the Miss Universe crown wearing a red gown. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) [12] (#cite_note-12) Planning and sketches were proposed as early as March 2018, just a week after Gray won the Binibining Pilipinas Universe 2018 (/wiki/Binibining_Pilipinas_Universe) title, and production started in May. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) [11] (#cite_note-:5-11) It was one of the seven Philippine-themed dresses presented to Gray, which were inspired by "Filipino arts, culture and literature," and one of the three that were produced by 16 artisans working for 2,712 hours with cost of materials reportedly at P1,025,091. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) Reception [ edit ] The dress was described as stunning when Gray walked down the runway in the evening gown competition of Miss Universe 2018 and has been regarded as iconic. [1] (#cite_note-:6-1) [16] (#cite_note-16) Gray's accessorized the look with a diamond-ruby ear cuff called "Alab at Dangal", which was a homage to the Philippine flag (/wiki/Flag_of_the_Philippines) , that featured gold rays, two stars, and one star that dangled at its tip, and a pair of studs made of golden pearls. [17] (#cite_note-17) In a review that appeared in Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) , Ashley Hoffman explained, "Gray also worked in a tribute to the Mayon Volcano of the Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) with her sparkling crimson gown designed to resemble the swirling red and orange lava that flows down the cone-shaped volcano’s crater." [18] (#cite_note-18) Vogue's (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) Janelle Okwodu commented on the dress, "Onstage at Bangkok’s Impact Arena in Thailand, she wore a fiery custom gown by Filipino designer Mak Tumang, featuring a portrait of the Mayon Volcano rendered in Swarovski crystals. It was the perfect complement to her lava walk, and she gave hosts Steve Harvey (/wiki/Steve_Harvey) and Ashley Graham (/wiki/Ashley_Graham_(model)) something to talk about, earning her second supermodel shoutout. [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) Voltaire E. Tayag of Rappler (/wiki/Rappler) stated that the dress made Tumang a household name. [5] (#cite_note-:2-5) Additionally, Raoul J. Chee Kee, writing for the Philippine Daily Inquirer (/wiki/Philippine_Daily_Inquirer) , said, "His background may have been in production design, but Mak Tumang will go down in fashion history for dressing the country’s fourth Miss Universe in a gown that mimicked flowing lava... It was the magma-hot evening gown she wore at the pageant proper, however, that is seared in the Filipinos’ collective consciousness." [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) Exhibit [ edit ] In December 2018, the Mayon gown was exhibited in SM City Pampanga (/wiki/SM_City_Pampanga) along with the Ibong Adarna gown that Gray wore during the preliminaries and Sinag gown, which Gray wore when she won Miss Universe Philippines 2018 (/wiki/Binibining_Pilipinas_Universe) in the Binibining Pilipinas 2018 (/wiki/Binibining_Pilipinas_2018) pageant. [19] (#cite_note-19) It was also displayed on the exhibit named "The Universe: Celebration of World Class Talent" held at SM Mall of Asia (/wiki/SM_Mall_of_Asia) in March 2019. [20] (#cite_note-20) According to Tumang, he plans to establish a museum where the gown will be in permanent exhibition. [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) See also [ edit ] List of individual dresses (/wiki/List_of_individual_dresses) References [ edit ] ^ a b Villa-Ignacio, Erika (December 17, 2018). "Catriona Gray's Lava Gown At Miss Universe 2018 Is Everything!" (https://www.cosmo.ph/style/trend-alert/catriona-gray-evening-gown-miss-universe-2018-a2517-20181217) . cosmo.ph . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ a b Geli, Bianca. "Catriona Gray picks Mak Tumang's "lava gown" because of mother's dream" (https://www.gmanetwork.com/entertainment/showbiznews/news/47321/catriona-gray-picks-mak-tumangs-lava-gown-because-of-mothers-dream/story) . www.gmanetwork.com . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Team Catriona Gray deserves recognition too" (https://preen.inquirer.net/88570/team-catriona-gray-deserves-recognition-too) . Preen.ph . 2018-12-17 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "What could have been: Catriona's 3rd Miss Universe gown, and its patriotic symbol, revealed" (https://news.abs-cbn.com/life/12/27/18/what-could-have-been-catrionas-3rd-miss-universe-gown-and-its-patriotic-symbol-revealed) . ABS-CBN News . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ a b Tayag, Voltaire E. (3 March 2019). "Fashion forward thinker: Catriona Gray's ripple effect" (http://www.rappler.com/life-and-style/fashion/224585-catriona-gray-ripple-effect-fashion) . Rappler . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ a b c "Mak Tumang recalls Catriona's passion for fiery red gown" (https://lifestyle.inquirer.net/318537/mak-tumang-recalls-catrionas-passion-for-fiery-red-gown/) . Inquirer Lifestyle . 2018-12-20 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ a b c "Magandang Buhay: Mak Tumang, ikinuwento ang pinanggalingan ng mga gowns ni Miss Universe 2019 Catriona \| ABS-CBN Entertainment" (https://ent.abs-cbn.com/magandangbuhay/videos/mak-tumang-ikinuwento-ang-pinanggalingan-ng-mga-gowns-ni-miss-universe-2019-catriona-5881) . ent.abs-cbn.com . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Catriona Gray's Mayon Gown" (https://udou.ph/2018/12/18/catriona-grays-mayon-gown/) . udou.ph . 2018-12-18 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ a b "Miss Universe 2018 Catriona Gray Wowed Even Supermodels With Her Walk" (https://www.vogue.com/article/miss-universe-2018-catriona-gray-lava-walk-tyra-banks) . Vogue . 17 December 2018 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Catriona Gray shares the significance of hannah pearl her red dress" (https://www.gmanetwork.com/news/lifestyle/shoppingandfashion/678439/catriona-gray-shares-the-significance-of-her-red-dress/story/) . GMA News Online . 17 December 2018 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ a b "Miss Universe reveals origins of her viral 'lavawalk,' the signature strut she performed on the runway" (https://www.foxnews.com/lifestyle/miss-universe-reveals-origins-viral-lavawalk-signature-strut-she-performed-on-the-runway) . New York Post . 2019-03-04 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Her mom once dreamed she'd win Miss Universe in a red dress. She did" (https://www.nbcnews.com/news/world/miss-universe-2018-miss-philippines-catriona-gray-n948681) . NBC News . 17 December 2018 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Pineda, Rey (2018-12-14). "Kapampangan designer Mak Tumang did 7 gowns for Catriona Gray" (https://www.sunstar.com.ph//article/1778758) . Sunstar . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Metro Style" (https://metro.style/) . Metro Style . Retrieved 2019-07-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Watch: The story behind Catriona's 'Adarna' gown, original sunray earrings in Miss Universe prelims" (https://news.abs-cbn.com/life/12/14/18/watch-the-story-behind-catrionas-adarna-gown-original-sunray-earrings-in-miss-universe-prelims) . ABS-CBN News . Retrieved 2019-07-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) " (https://lifestyle.inquirer.net/326439/lava-gown-designer-mak-tumangs-story-a-life-changing-text-gown-and-working-with-catriona-gray/) 'Lava gown' designer Mak Tumang's story: A life-changing text, gown and working with Catriona Gray" (https://lifestyle.inquirer.net/326439/lava-gown-designer-mak-tumangs-story-a-life-changing-text-gown-and-working-with-catriona-gray/) . Inquirer Lifestyle . 2019-03-05 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Look: All of Miss Universe queen Catriona Gray's patriotic earrings" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190221020619/http://cnnphilippines.com/lifestyle/2018/12/18/Miss-Universe-2018-Catriona-Gray-patriotic-earrings-ear-cuffs-Philippines.html) . cnn . Archived from the original (http://cnnphilippines.com/lifestyle/2018/12/18/Miss-Universe-2018-Catriona-Gray-patriotic-earrings-ear-cuffs-Philippines.html) on 2019-02-21 . Retrieved 2019-07-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "This Was the Meaning Behind Miss Universe's Red Gown" (https://time.com/5481354/catriona-gray-gown/) . Time . 17 December 2018 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "In Photos: Catriona Gray's gowns by Mak Tumang on display at SM Pampanga" (http://www.rappler.com/life-and-style/specials/miss-universe/219827-photo-catriona-gray-gowns-mak-tumang) . Rappler . 28 December 2018 . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Mak Tumang the Universe: Celebration of World Class Talent" (http://manilastandard.net/spotlight/290887/mak-tumang-the-universe-celebration-of-world-class-talent.html) . Manila Standard . Retrieved 2019-07-19 . 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NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8464c9d799‐hn72j Cached time: 20240703055700 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.002 seconds Real time usage: 0.003 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 0/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 1/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 0/5000000 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 0.000 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:72306213-0!canonical and timestamp 20240703055700 and revision id 1177798274. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Pages in category "Indonesian women fashion designers" The following 9 pages are in this category, out of 9 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . A Anne Avantie (/wiki/Anne_Avantie) D Asha Smara Darra (/wiki/Asha_Smara_Darra) Ardistia Dwiasri (/wiki/Ardistia_Dwiasri) H Sumi Hakim (/wiki/Sumi_Hakim) Peggy Hartanto (/wiki/Peggy_Hartanto) M Yovita Meta (/wiki/Yovita_Meta) O Obin (/wiki/Obin) P Susanna Perini (/wiki/Susanna_Perini) S Vicky Shu (/wiki/Vicky_Shu) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Indonesian_women_fashion_designers&oldid=1177798274 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Indonesian_women_fashion_designers&oldid=1177798274) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Indonesian fashion designers (/wiki/Category:Indonesian_fashion_designers) Indonesian women artists (/wiki/Category:Indonesian_women_artists) Women fashion designers by nationality (/wiki/Category:Women_fashion_designers_by_nationality)
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American photographer Mark Hunter Hunter in 2007 Occupation Photographer Website www.thecobrasnake.com Mark Hunter , known as The Cobrasnake (born July 21, 1985), [1] (#cite_note-auto-1) is an American photographer. He is known for his photographs of American nightlife, particularly from the mid 2000s (/wiki/2000s_in_fashion) to the early 2010s (/wiki/2010s_in_fashion) . [2] (#cite_note-2) Early life [ edit ] Hunter grew up in Los Angeles. He was raised by a single mom who worked as a dental hygienist for Bill Dorfman, a dentist popular with celebrities. Through his mother’s job, he was able to meet numerous celebrities as a boy. [3] (#cite_note-auto1-3) He attended Santa Monica High School (/wiki/Santa_Monica_High_School) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Career [ edit ] Hunter was an assistant to the artist Shepard Fairey (/wiki/Shepard_Fairey) for several years. Through his work with Fairey, he would attend parties and events attended by many well known artists and musicians. He would bring his camera along to photograph and would often be asked to take pictures for people who left their cameras at home. He started to post the photos to a website he created in early 2004 called Polaroid Scene. [5] (#cite_note-5) [1] (#cite_note-auto-1) [6] (#cite_note-6) His website of photos of late-night parties frequented by up-and-coming musicians, "it-kids", and indie celebrities is considered according to Vogue “one of the earliest and most impactful social photography sites of its kind”. It allowed anyone on the internet to have access to the emerging hipster subculture. [7] (#cite_note-7) He changed the name of his website to thecobrasnake.com after receiving a cease and desist letter from Polaroid. [3] (#cite_note-auto1-3) In the summer of 2005, Hunter met Cory Kennedy (/wiki/Cory_Kennedy_(model)) at a Blood Brothers (/wiki/The_Blood_Brothers_(band)) concert at the El Rey Theatre (/wiki/El_Rey_Theatre_(Los_Angeles)) in Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) . He took some photographs of her for his web site and they exchanged phone numbers. In January 2006, Kennedy and her best friend began an internship (/wiki/Internship) at his office, to fulfill a requirement from her high school for graduation. [8] (#cite_note-latimes-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) In December 2005, Hunter posted photos of Kennedy with the title "JFK CORY KENNEDY", which began speculation that she was somehow related to the Kennedy family (/wiki/Kennedy_family) , which she is not. By April, Hunter noticed that every time he posted photos of Kennedy on his site, the web traffic from fashion community sites would spike. He quickly realized that Kennedy had the potential to be a star. [11] (#cite_note-11) Hunter in 2011 In 2010, Hunter opened Cobra Shop, a vintage store in the Hollywood and Highland Center (/wiki/Hollywood_and_Highland_Center) mall. The shop sold exclusive pieces by some of Hunter’s friends including Steve Aoki (/wiki/Steve_Aoki) Shepard Fairey, Jeremy Scott (/wiki/Jeremy_Scott) , and Todd Selby (/wiki/Todd_Selby) . [12] (#cite_note-12) In 2011, Hunter released a collection with Boy London (/wiki/Boy_London) . He also released a pair of high heeled shoes with Irregular Choice (/wiki/Irregular_Choice) . [13] (#cite_note-13) In 2018, Hunter started Cobra Fitness Club, a twice-weekly group hike through Runyon Canyon (/wiki/Runyon_Canyon) . [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) Book [ edit ] In 2022, Hunter published The Cobrasnake: Y2Ks Archive , a monograph of his work going back to 2004. [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Cobra Snake is young, making money and still using coupons" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/blogs/all-the-rage/story/2009-09-03/cobra-snake-is-young-making-money-and-still-using-coupons) . Los Angeles Times . September 3, 2009. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20221225105928/https://www.latimes.com/archives/blogs/all-the-rage/story/2009-09-03/cobra-snake-is-young-making-money-and-still-using-coupons) from the original on December 25, 2022 . Retrieved August 18, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Colyar, Brock (June 29, 2022). "You're a Star on thecobrasnake.com!" (https://www.thecut.com/2022/06/partying-with-cobrasnake-at-a-virginity-party.html) . The Cut . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220810035851/https://www.thecut.com/2022/06/partying-with-cobrasnake-at-a-virginity-party.html) from the original on August 10, 2022 . Retrieved August 10, 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Mark Hunter (AKA "The Cobrasnake") Revisits His Early Aughts Heyday" (https://www.wmagazine.com/life/the-cobrasnake-mark-hunter-party-photographs-interview) . W Magazine . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230223004605/https://www.wmagazine.com/life/the-cobrasnake-mark-hunter-party-photographs-interview) from the original on February 23, 2023 . Retrieved April 23, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "The Cobrasnake Beat Trump Advisor Stephen Miller in a High School Election" (https://pitchfork.com/news/71675-the-cobrasnake-beat-trump-advisor-stephen-miller-in-a-high-school-election/) . Pitchfork . February 16, 2017. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220818044840/https://pitchfork.com/news/71675-the-cobrasnake-beat-trump-advisor-stephen-miller-in-a-high-school-election/) from the original on August 18, 2022 . Retrieved August 18, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "To See and Be Scene" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2005-oct-25-me-cobrasnake25-story.html) . Los Angeles Times . October 25, 2005. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230422151334/https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2005-oct-25-me-cobrasnake25-story.html) from the original on April 22, 2023 . Retrieved April 23, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The Cobrasnake Looks Back on a Decade of Shooting Hipster Parties" (https://www.vice.com/en/article/mvkjpq/hw-the-cobrasnake-looks-back-on-a-decade-shooting-hipster-parties) . Vice . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230209175557/https://www.vice.com/en/article/mvkjpq/hw-the-cobrasnake-looks-back-on-a-decade-shooting-hipster-parties) from the original on February 9, 2023 . Retrieved April 23, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) George, Cassidy (June 2, 2022). "Revisiting Indie Sleaze, as It Happened" (https://www.vogue.com/article/the-cobrasnake-y2ks-archive-mark-hunter-book-indie-sleaze) . Vogue . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220815053646/https://www.vogue.com/article/the-cobrasnake-y2ks-archive-mark-hunter-book-indie-sleaze) from the original on August 15, 2022 . Retrieved August 25, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-latimes_8-0) Hubler, Shawn (February 25, 2007). "West magazine: The secret life of Cory Kennedy" (http://articles.latimes.com/2007/feb/25/magazine/tm-corykennedy08) . Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181012033108/http://articles.latimes.com/2007/feb/25/magazine/tm-corykennedy08) from the original on October 12, 2018 . Retrieved February 25, 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Sorgatz, Rex. "The Microfame Game and the New Rules of Internet Celebrity" (https://nymag.com/news/media/47958/) . New York . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230130043209/https://nymag.com/news/media/47958/) from the original on January 30, 2023 . Retrieved January 30, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Hubler, Shawn (February 25, 2007). "The secret life of Cory Kennedy" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2007-feb-25-tm-corykennedy08-story.html) . Los Angeles Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181012033108/http://articles.latimes.com/2007/feb/25/magazine/tm-corykennedy08) from the original on October 12, 2018 . Retrieved January 30, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Archived copy" (http://articles.latimes.com/2007/feb/25/magazine/tm-corykennedy08) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181012033108/http://articles.latimes.com/2007/feb/25/magazine/tm-corykennedy08) from the original on October 12, 2018 . Retrieved February 9, 2023 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: archived copy as title ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_archived_copy_as_title) ) ^ (#cite_ref-12) Studeman, Kristin (July 29, 2010). "Mark Hunter's Vintage Venture" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/mark-hunter-s-vintage-venture-3197745/) . Women's World Daily . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220818051022/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/mark-hunter-s-vintage-venture-3197745/) from the original on August 18, 2022 . Retrieved August 18, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Krentcil, Faran. "Mark Hunter Shoes" (https://www.nylon.com/articles/right-to-choose-6183) . Nylon . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220818050808/https://www.nylon.com/articles/right-to-choose-6183) from the original on August 18, 2022 . Retrieved August 18, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Romeyn, Kathryn (February 24, 2015). "Mark 'The Cobrasnake' Hunter Is a Fitness Guru Now" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/mark-cobrasnake-hunter-is-a-777595/) . The Hollywood Reporter . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220818044653/https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/mark-cobrasnake-hunter-is-a-777595/) from the original on August 18, 2022 . Retrieved August 18, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "This Legendary Club Photographer Is Bringing The Party To Fitness" (https://uproxx.com/life/photographer-the-cobrasnake-cobra-fitness-club-party-interview/) . Uproxx . April 27, 2018. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220818044653/https://uproxx.com/life/photographer-the-cobrasnake-cobra-fitness-club-party-interview/) from the original on August 18, 2022 . Retrieved August 18, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Battan, Carrie. "Former Hipster King Wants to Be a Fitness Guru" (https://www.thecut.com/2015/02/former-hipster-king-wants-to-be-a-fitness-guru.html) . The Cut . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230130042146/https://www.thecut.com/2015/02/former-hipster-king-wants-to-be-a-fitness-guru.html) from the original on January 30, 2023 . Retrieved January 30, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "How Indie Sleaze Went High Fashion" (https://www.elle.com/fashion/a39906578/indie-sleaze-trend-high-fashion/) . ELLE . May 5, 2022. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220809201615/https://www.elle.com/fashion/a39906578/indie-sleaze-trend-high-fashion/) from the original on August 9, 2022 . Retrieved August 10, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Wise, Louis. "Meet Mark Hunter, the party photographer who chronicled the best of Noughties celebrity culture" (https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/meet-mark-hunter-the-party-photographer-who-chronicled-the-best-of-noughties-celebrity-culture-x7qd8zch0) . The Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220818045753/https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/meet-mark-hunter-the-party-photographer-who-chronicled-the-best-of-noughties-celebrity-culture-x7qd8zch0) from the original on August 18, 2022 . Retrieved August 18, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "The Cobrasnake Shots From the Hip" (https://www.lamag.com/culturefiles/the-cobrasnake-shots-from-the-hip/) . Los Angeles Magazine . August 12, 2022. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230216212009/https://www.lamag.com/culturefiles/the-cobrasnake-shots-from-the-hip/) from the original on February 16, 2023 . Retrieved April 23, 2023 . Further reading [ edit ] "Look! Mark the Cobra Snake's Bachelor Digs" (https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/look-mark-the-cobra-snakes-bac-64197) . Apartment Therapy . Silverio, Victoria De (August 21, 2005). "Suburbia in SoHo" (https://www.nytimes.com/2005/08/21/fashion/sundaystyles/suburbia-in-soho.html) . The New York Times . Ryzik, Melena Z. (October 30, 2005). "You Glitter in Nighttown" (https://www.nytimes.com/2005/10/30/fashion/sundaystyles/you-glitter-in-nighttown.html) . The New York Times . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.thecobrasnake.com/) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐dc899b7cc‐v6ld9 Cached time: 20240721153109 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.400 seconds Real time usage: 0.649 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2505/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 44678/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1085/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 82762/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.245/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6382960/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 606.104 1 -total 34.78% 210.823 1 Template:Reflist 34.28% 207.744 1 Template:Infobox_person 28.95% 175.447 19 Template:Cite_web 21.95% 133.035 1 Template:Short_description 17.77% 107.729 2 Template:Pagetype 5.77% 34.983 17 Template:Main_other 5.28% 31.981 1 Template:Use_mdy_dates 4.17% 25.268 20 Template:Pluralize_from_text 2.96% 17.932 3 Template:Cite_news Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:71494243-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721153109 and revision id 1210978263. 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Indian fashion designer This biography of a living person (/wiki/Wikipedia:Biographies_of_living_persons) relies too much on references (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) to primary sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Biographies_of_living_persons#Misuse_of_primary_sources) . Please help by adding secondary or tertiary sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research#Primary,_secondary_and_tertiary_sources) . Contentious material about living persons that is unsourced or poorly sourced must be removed immediately , especially if potentially libelous (/wiki/Wikipedia:Libel) or harmful. Find sources: "Anita Dongre" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Anita+Dongre%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Anita+Dongre%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Anita+Dongre%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Anita+Dongre%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Anita+Dongre%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Anita+Dongre%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( November 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Anita Dongre Dongre in 2015 Born ( 1963-10-03 ) 3 October 1963 (age 60) Bandra (/wiki/Bandra) , West Mumbai (/wiki/West_Mumbai) , India Nationality Indian Education Fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) SNDT Women's University (/wiki/SNDT_Women%27s_University) in Mumbai 1998 Occupation Fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) Children Yash Dongre Website www (http://www.anitadongre.com/) .anitadongre (http://www.anitadongre.com/) .com (http://www.anitadongre.com/) Anita Dongre (née Sawlani) (born 3 October 1963) is an Indian fashion designer. She is the founder of House of Anita Dongre, an Indian fashion house. Early life [ edit ] Dongre was born in Mumbai (/wiki/Mumbai) , in the state of Maharashtra (/wiki/Maharashtra) . Her mother, Pushpa Sawlani, used to stitch clothes for Anita and her 5 siblings when they were kids [ citation needed ] . Later in life, Anita studied fashion design at SNDT college located in Mumbai. [1] (#cite_note-1) She pursued a Degree course in Fashion designing. [2] (#cite_note-2) Career [ edit ] This biography of a living person (/wiki/Wikipedia:Biographies_of_living_persons) relies too much on references (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) to primary sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Biographies_of_living_persons#Misuse_of_primary_sources) . Please help by adding secondary or tertiary sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research#Primary,_secondary_and_tertiary_sources) . Contentious material about living persons that is unsourced or poorly sourced must be removed immediately , especially if potentially libelous (/wiki/Wikipedia:Libel) or harmful. Find sources: "Anita Dongre" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Anita+Dongre%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Anita+Dongre%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Anita+Dongre%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Anita+Dongre%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Anita+Dongre%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Anita+Dongre%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( November 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Dongre launched her jewellery brand Anita Dongre Pink City, which also features under House of Anita Dongre. [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) In the year 2015, AND Designs India Limited re-branded (/wiki/Rebranding) itself as House of Anita Dongre. [5] (#cite_note-5) House of Anita Dongre currently shelters AND (western wear), Global Desi ( boho-chic (/wiki/Boho-chic) brand inspired by the folk tales of India), and her signature label ANITA DONGRE. She has recently introduced Anita Dongre Grassroot to her fashion house. She is also the founder of Pink City, a jadau (/wiki/Kundan) fine jewellery brand. [6] (#cite_note-6) On 28 March 2019, the Board of House of Anita Dongre Limited (HOADL), as part of its corporate restructuring, transferred the businesses under its two brands, AND and Global Desi under a slump sale arrangement to a newly formed wholly-owned subsidiary, Ochre and Black Private Limited (OBPL) - effective 1 April 2019. HOADL will continue to manage the business under its two brands - Anita Dongre and Grassroot. [7] (#cite_note-7) Dongre's brother and sister handle the operations of the business, while she focuses on the design front. She features as the Chief Creative Officer (/wiki/Chief_creative_officer) of the company. Personal life [ edit ] Anita Dongre is married to Pravin Dongre, a businessman and has a son named Yash Dongre, who is also a part of Dongre's business. [8] (#cite_note-8) Dongre is a vegan (/wiki/Vegan) activist and a member of the organisation People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (/wiki/People_for_the_Ethical_Treatment_of_Animals) (PETA). [9] (#cite_note-9) Awards and recognitions [ edit ] In 2008, she received the GR8 Flo Women Achievers Award for ‘Excellence in Fashion Design’. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 2013, The Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry Ladies Organization, Bombay Chapter, presented an award to Dongre for ‘Excellence in Fashion Design’. [11] (#cite_note-11) In 2014, she received the EY Entrepreneur of the year award. [12] (#cite_note-12) She received the Pantene Shine Award for helping women shine. [13] (#cite_note-13) In 2017, Vogue and Yes Bank awarded her the title of 'Designer of the Year.' In 2019, Anita Dongre received the Lokmat 'Most Stylish' award. In 2023, she received 'Forces of Fashion' award from Vogue. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "SNDT Women's University" (https://sndt.ac.in/notable-alumni/anita-dongre) . sndt.ac.in . Retrieved 25 April 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Anita Dongre : journey of a poor girl to a renowned fashion designer" (https://www.newstrend.news/344717/anita-dongre-life-story/) . newstrend.news . 24 April 2020 . Retrieved 25 April 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Designer Anita Dongre is a runway hit" (http://www.forbesindia.com/article/wpower-trailblazers/designer-anita-dongre-is-a-runway-hit/46243/1) . 14 March 2017 – via Forbes India. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Interview - I find inspiration in everything: Anita Dongre" (http://zeenews.india.com/exclusive/interview-i-find-inspiration-in-everything-anita-dongre_6791.html) . 5 December 2013 – via ZEE News India. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Anita Dongre Gives Us an Insider View of the Business of Fashion" (http://www.idiva.com/news-style-beauty/interview-with-fashion-desinger-anita-dongre/34947) . 17 February 2015 – via IDIVA. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Grand designs" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170928005419/https://www.telegraphindia.com/1131201/jsp/graphiti/17610178.jsp) . 1 December 2013. Archived from the original (https://www.telegraphindia.com/1131201/jsp/graphiti/17610178.jsp) on 28 September 2017 . Retrieved 27 September 2017 – via Telegraph India. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Anita Dongre Limited (HOADL) Corporate Restructuring (https://www.icra.in/Rationale/ShowRationaleReport?Id=87212) ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Drafting New Designs" (http://www.businesstoday.in/magazine/cover-story/anita-dongre-fashion-indian-women-milan/story/209032.html) . 31 August 2014 – via Business Today. ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Ace Fashion Designer Anita Dongre Honoured with PETA Award for Refusing to Use Leather and Cashmere in Her Designs" (https://www.petaindia.com/media/ace-fashion-designer-anita-dongre-honoured-peta-award-refusing-use-leather-cashmere-designs/) . 21 November 2016 – via Peta India. ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Excellence in Fashion Design" (http://www.ficciflo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/GR8-FLO-AChievers-Awards-2008.pdf) (PDF) . January 2017 – via FICCIFLO. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "POWER DESIGNER: ANITA DONGRE" (http://www.vervemagazine.in/people/power-designer-anita-dongre) . 19 June 2014 – via VERVE Magazine. ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Anita Dongre (AND Designs India Limited), EY EOY 2014 Award Finalist" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q51wDbO0CXE) . 23 February 2015 – via EY INDIA. ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Pantene repositions itself as the brand that helps women 'shine' (http://www.afaqs.com/news/story/16013_Pantene-repositions-itself-as-the-brand-that-helps-women-shine) " (http://www.afaqs.com/news/story/16013_Pantene-repositions-itself-as-the-brand-that-helps-women-shine) . 21 September 2006 – via afaqs. External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.anitadongre.com/about-anita) [ permanent dead link ] NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐8v8g2 Cached time: 20240713175850 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.428 seconds Real time usage: 1.477 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2717/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 49374/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3743/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 47698/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.248/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7611151/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 559.893 1 -total 34.12% 191.054 1 Template:Infobox_person 28.01% 156.801 1 Template:Reflist 22.01% 123.235 12 Template:Cite_web 14.86% 83.199 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 13.23% 74.063 1 Template:Birth_date_and_age 12.87% 72.083 2 Template:BLP_primary_sources 12.86% 71.988 1 Template:Short_description 11.68% 65.404 2 Template:Ambox 7.44% 41.647 2 Template:Pagetype Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:36373433-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713175850 and revision id 1234048622. 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(Redirected from Linen clothes (/w/index.php?title=Linen_clothes&redirect=no) ) Textile made from spun flax fibre This article is about the textile. For other uses, see Linen (disambiguation) (/wiki/Linen_(disambiguation)) . A linen handkerchief (/wiki/Handkerchief) with drawn thread work (/wiki/Drawn_thread_work) around the edges Linen cloth recovered from Qumran (/wiki/Qumran) Cave 1 near the Dead Sea (/wiki/Dead_Sea) Flax stem, fiber, yarn and woven and knitted linen textiles Linen ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ l ɪ n ə n / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ) is a textile (/wiki/Textile) made from the fibers (/wiki/Fiber) of the flax (/wiki/Flax) plant. Linen is very strong and absorbent and dries faster than cotton (/wiki/Cotton) . Because of these properties, linen is comfortable to wear in hot weather and is valued for use in garments. Linen textiles can be made from flax plant fiber, yarn, as well as woven and knitted. Linen also has other distinctive characteristics, such as its tendency to wrinkle. It's also hypoallergenic which makes it a better material for people with allergies or chemical sensitivities. [1] (#cite_note-UN_2009-1) It takes significantly longer to harvest than a material like cotton although both are natural fibers. It is also more difficult to weave than cotton. [2] (#cite_note-2) Linen textiles appear to be some of the oldest in the world; their history goes back many thousands of years. Dyed flax fibers found in a cave in Southeastern Europe (present-day Georgia (/wiki/Georgia_(country)) ) suggest the use of woven linen fabrics from wild flax may date back over 30,000 years. [3] (#cite_note-3) Linen was used in ancient civilizations including Mesopotamia (/wiki/Mesopotamia) [4] (#cite_note-McCorriston-4) and ancient Egypt (/wiki/Ancient_Egypt) , and linen is mentioned in the Bible (/wiki/Bible) . In the 18th century and beyond, the linen industry was important in the economies of several countries in Europe as well as the American colonies. Textiles in a linen weave (/wiki/Linen_weave) texture, even when made of cotton, hemp (/wiki/Hemp) , or other non-flax fibers, are also loosely referred to as "linen". Etymology [ edit ] The word linen is of West Germanic (/wiki/West_Germanic_languages) origin [5] (#cite_note-Lexico-5) and cognate (/wiki/Cognate) to the Latin (/wiki/Latin) name for the flax (/wiki/Flax) plant, linum , and the earlier Greek (/wiki/Ancient_Greek_language) λινόν ( linón ). This word history has given rise to a number of other terms in English, most notably line (/wiki/Line_(geometry)) , from the use of a linen (flax) thread (/wiki/Yarn) to determine a straight line. It is also etymologically related to a number of other terms, including lining (/wiki/Lining_(sewing)) , because linen was often used to create an inner layer for clothing, [6] (#cite_note-6) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) , from French, which originally denoted underwear made of linen. [7] (#cite_note-7) History [ edit ] A bag of white linen, unopened. Contains rolls of linen. Foundation deposit (/wiki/Foundation_deposit) , Heb Sed (/wiki/Heb_Sed) Chapel at Lahun (/wiki/El_Lahun) , Faiyum (/wiki/Faiyum) , Egypt. 12th Dynasty (/wiki/Twelfth_Dynasty_of_Egypt) . The Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology (/wiki/Petrie_Museum_of_Egyptian_Archaeology) , London. People in various parts of the world began weaving linen at least several thousand years ago. [8] (#cite_note-8) It was also recovered from Qumran Cave 1 near the Dead Sea. [9] (#cite_note-9) Early history [ edit ] The discovery of dyed flax fibers in a cave in Southern Caucasus (/wiki/Southern_Caucasus) , West Asia (/wiki/West_Asia) (modern day country, Georgia (/wiki/Georgia_(country)) ) dated to 36,000 years ago suggests that ancient people used wild flax fibers to create linen-like fabrics from an early date. [10] (#cite_note-Balter_M._2009-10) [11] (#cite_note-Supporting_Online_Material-11) Fragments of straw, seeds, fibers, yarns, and various types of fabrics, including linen samples, dating to about 8,000 BC have been found in Swiss lake dwellings. [12] (#cite_note-Akin-12) Woven flax textile fragments have been "found between infant and child" in a burial at Çatalhöyük (/wiki/%C3%87atalh%C3%B6y%C3%BCk) , a large settlement dating to around 7,000 BC. [13] (#cite_note-13) To the southeast, in ancient Mesopotamia (/wiki/Mesopotamia) , flax was domesticated and linen was produced. [14] (#cite_note-14) It was used mainly by the wealthier class of the society, including priests. [15] (#cite_note-15) The Sumerian (/wiki/Sumerian_art) poem of the courtship of Inanna (/wiki/Inanna) mentions flax and linen. [16] (#cite_note-Kramer-16) In ancient Egypt (/wiki/Ancient_Egypt) , linen was used for mummification and for burial shrouds. It was also worn as clothing (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Egypt) on a daily basis; white linen was worn because of the extreme heat. [ citation needed ] For example, the Tarkhan dress (/wiki/Tarkhan_dress) , considered to be among the oldest woven garments in the world and dated to between 3482 and 3102 BC, is made of linen. [17] (#cite_note-Lobell-17) Plutarch (/wiki/Plutarch) wrote that the priests of Isis (/wiki/Isis) also wore linen because of its purity. [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-Warden-19) Linen was sometimes used as a form of currency in ancient Egypt. [ citation needed ] Egyptian mummies (/wiki/Mummy) were wrapped in linen as a symbol of light and purity, and as a display of wealth. Some of these fabrics, woven from hand-spun yarns, were very fine for their day, but are coarse compared with modern linen. [20] (#cite_note-Harris1824-20) When the tomb of the Pharaoh Ramses II (/wiki/Ramses_II) , who died in 1213 BC, was discovered in 1881, the linen wrappings were in a state of perfect preservation after more than 3000 years. [ citation needed ] In the Ulster Museum (/wiki/Ulster_Museum) , Belfast (/wiki/Belfast) there is the mummy of ' Takabuti (/wiki/Takabuti) ' the daughter of a priest of Amun (/wiki/Amun) , who died 2,500 years ago. [21] (#cite_note-21) The linen on this mummy is also in a perfect state of preservation. Diocletian (/wiki/Diocletian) 's 4th century maximum prices edict showing prices for 3 grades of linen across the Roman Empire (/wiki/Roman_Empire) The earliest written documentation of a linen industry comes from the Linear B (/wiki/Linear_B) tablets of Pylos (/wiki/Pylos) , Greece (/wiki/Greece) , where linen is depicted as an ideogram (/wiki/Ideogram) and also written as "li-no" ( Greek (/wiki/Greek_language) : λίνον, linon ), and the female linen workers are cataloged as "li-ne-ya" (λίνεια, lineia ). [22] (#cite_note-Francoise_Rougemont:_Flax_and_Linen_Textiles_in_the_Mycenaean_palatial_economy-22) [23] (#cite_note-American_Journal_of_Archaeology-23) Ancient Coptic (/wiki/Copts) material Middle Ages [ edit ] By the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) , there was a thriving trade in German flax and linen. The trade spread throughout Germany (/wiki/Kingdom_of_Germany) by the 9th century and spread to Flanders (/wiki/Flanders) and Brabant (/wiki/Pagus_of_Brabant) by the 11th century. The Lower Rhine (/wiki/Lower_Rhine_region) was a center of linen making in the Middle Ages. [24] (#cite_note-24) Flax was cultivated and linen used for clothing in Ireland by the 11th century. [25] (#cite_note-Lisburn_Museum-25) Evidence suggests that flax may have been grown and sold in Southern England in the 12th and 13th centuries. [26] (#cite_note-26) Textiles, primarily linen and wool, were produced in decentralized home weaving mills. [27] (#cite_note-Textiltechnikum-27) Modern history [ edit ] Linen continued to be valued for garments in the 16th century [28] (#cite_note-Pollen-28) and beyond. Specimens of linen garments worn by historical figures have survived. For example, a linen cap worn by Emperor Charles V (/wiki/Charles_V,_Holy_Roman_Emperor) was carefully preserved after his death in 1558. [28] (#cite_note-Pollen-28) There is a long history of the production of linen in Ireland. When the Edict of Nantes (/wiki/Edict_of_Nantes) was revoked in 1685, many of the Huguenots (/wiki/Huguenots) who fled France settled in the British Isles and elsewhere. They brought improved methods for linen production with them, contributing to the growth of the linen industry in Ireland (/wiki/Ireland) in particular. [29] (#cite_note-Lutton-29) Among them was Louis Crommelin (/wiki/Louis_Crommelin) , a leader who was appointed overseer of the royal linen manufacture of Ireland. He settled in the town of Lisburn (/wiki/Lisburn) near Belfast (/wiki/Belfast) , which is itself perhaps the most famous linen producing center throughout history; during the Victorian era the majority of the world's linen was produced in the city, which gained it the name Linenopolis (/wiki/Linenopolis) . [30] (#cite_note-Prance-30) Although the linen industry was already established in Ulster, Louis Crommelin found scope for improvement in weaving, and his efforts were so successful that he was appointed by the Government to develop the industry over a much wider range than the small confines of Lisburn and its surroundings. The direct result of his good work was the establishment, under statute, of the Board of Trustees of the Linen Manufacturers of Ireland in the year 1711. Several grades were produced including coarse lockram (/w/index.php?title=Lockram&action=edit&redlink=1) . [ citation needed ] The Living Linen (/wiki/Living_Linen) Project was set up in 1995 as an oral archive of the knowledge of the Irish linen (/wiki/Irish_linen) industry, which was at that time still available within a nucleus of people who formerly worked in the industry in Ulster (/wiki/Ulster) . The linen industry was increasingly critical in the economies of Europe [31] (#cite_note-Takei-31) [32] (#cite_note-Belfanti-32) in the 18th and 19th centuries. In England and then in Germany, industrialization and machine production replaced manual work and production moved from the home to new factories. [27] (#cite_note-Textiltechnikum-27) Linen was also an important product in the American colonies, where it was brought over with the first settlers and became the most commonly used fabric and a valuable asset for colonial households. [33] (#cite_note-Keegan-33) The homespun movement (/wiki/Homespun_movement) encouraged the use of flax to make home spun textiles. [34] (#cite_note-34) Through the 1830s, most farmers in the northern United States continued to grow flax for linen to be used for the family's clothing. [35] (#cite_note-Wyatt-35) In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, linen was very significant to Russia and its economy. At one time it was the country's greatest export item and Russia produced about 80% of the world's fiber flax crop. [12] (#cite_note-Akin-12) In December 2006, the General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 to be the International Year of Natural Fibres (/wiki/International_Year_of_Natural_Fibres) in order to raise people's awareness of linen and other natural fibers (/wiki/Natural_fiber) . [1] (#cite_note-UN_2009-1) One study suggests that the functional properties of linen fabric can be improved by incorporating chitosan-citric acid and phytic acid thiourea. The effects of this process include improved levels of antibacterial activity, increased wrinkle resistance, flame retardancy, UV protection, and antioxidant properties. Additionally, the linen fabric was able to retain durability for about 20 washes. [36] (#cite_note-36) Religion [ edit ] There are many references to linen throughout the Bible (/wiki/Bible) , reflecting the textile's entrenched presence in human cultures. [37] (#cite_note-MasterClass-37) In Judaism (/wiki/Judaism) , the only law concerning which fabrics may be interwoven together in clothing concerns the mixture of linen and wool (/wiki/Wool) , called shaatnez (/wiki/Shaatnez) ; it is restricted in Deuteronomy 22:11 (https://mechon-mamre.org/p/pt/pt0522.htm#11) "Thou shalt not wear a mingled stuff, wool and linen together" and Leviticus 19:19 (https://mechon-mamre.org/p/pt/pt0319.htm#19) , "...neither shall there come upon thee a garment of two kinds of stuff mingled together." There is no explanation for this in the Torah (/wiki/Torah) itself and it is categorized as a type of law known as chukim , a statute beyond man's ability to comprehend. [38] (#cite_note-religion-38) First-century Romano-Jewish historian Josephus (/wiki/Josephus) suggested that the reason for the prohibition was to keep the laity from wearing the official garb of the priests, [39] (#cite_note-39) [ full citation needed ] [40] (#cite_note-40) while medieval Sephardic Jewish philosopher Maimonides (/wiki/Maimonides) thought that the reason was that heathen priests wore such mixed garments. [41] (#cite_note-41) [ full citation needed ] Others explain that it is because God often forbids mixtures of disparate kinds, not designed by God to be compatible in a certain way, with mixing animal and vegetable fibers being similar to having two different types of plowing animals yoked together; also, such commands serve both a practical as well as allegorical purpose, perhaps here preventing a priestly garment that would cause discomfort (or excessive sweat) in a hot climate. [42] (#cite_note-42) [ full citation needed ] Linen is also mentioned in the Bible in Proverbs 31, a passage describing a noble wife. Proverbs 31:22 (https://bible.oremus.org/?passage=Proverbs%2031:22&version=nrsv) says, "She makes coverings for her bed; she is clothed in fine linen and purple." Fine white linen is also worn by angels in the New Testament ( Revelation 15:6 (https://bible.oremus.org/?passage=Revelation%2015:6&version=nrsv) ). In the Book of Joshua (/wiki/Book_of_Joshua) , Rahab (/wiki/Rahab) , a prostitute in Jericho (/wiki/Jericho) , hides two Israelite spies under bundles of flax. Uses [ edit ] Green Pleated Linen Dress, 'Irish Moss' by Irish fashion designer Sybil Connolly (/wiki/Sybil_Connolly) Many products can be made with linen, such as clothing, bed sheets, aprons, bags, towels (swimming, bath, beach, body and wash towels), napkins, runners, and upholstery. It is used especially in sailcloth and lent cloth, sewing threads, handkerchiefs, table cloth, sheets, collars, cuffs etc.. Today, linen is usually an expensive textile produced in relatively small quantities. It has a long staple (/wiki/Staple_(textiles)) (individual fiber length) relative to cotton and other natural fibers (/wiki/Natural_fiber) . [43] (#cite_note-textiles-43) Linen fabric has been used for table coverings, bed coverings and clothing for centuries. The significant cost of linen derives not only from the difficulty of working with the thread but also because the flax plant itself requires a great deal of attention. In addition, flax thread is not elastic, and therefore it is difficult to weave without breaking threads. Thus linen is considerably more expensive to manufacture than cotton. [ citation needed ] The collective term " linens (/wiki/Linens) " is still often used generically to describe a class of woven (/wiki/Weaving) or knitted (/wiki/Knitting) bed, bath, table and kitchen textiles traditionally made of flax-based linen but today made from a variety of fibers. The term "linens" refers to lightweight undergarments (/wiki/Undergarment) such as shirts, chemises (/wiki/Chemise) , waist-shirts, lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) (a cognate with linen ), and detachable shirt collars and cuffs, all of which were historically made almost exclusively out of linen. The inner layer of fine composite cloth garments (as for example dress jackets) was traditionally made of linen, hence the word lining . [44] (#cite_note-44) Bielefeld Germany linen Notgeld (/wiki/Notgeld) issued by Stadt-Sparkasse on 8 November 1923 Over the past 30 years the end use for linen has changed dramatically. Approximately 70% of linen production in the 1990s was for apparel textiles, whereas in the 1970s only about 5% was used for fashion fabrics. [45] (#cite_note-45) Linen uses range across bed and bath fabrics ( tablecloths (/wiki/Tablecloths) , bath towels, dish towels, bed sheets); home and commercial furnishing items (wallpaper/wall coverings, upholstery, window treatments); apparel items (suits, dresses, skirts, shirts); and industrial products (luggage, canvases, sewing thread). [43] (#cite_note-textiles-43) It was once the preferred yarn for hand-sewing the uppers of moccasin (/wiki/Moccasin_(footwear)) -style shoes ( loafers (/wiki/Loafers) ), but has been replaced by synthetics. A linen handkerchief (/wiki/Handkerchief) , pressed and folded to display the corners, was a standard decoration of a well-dressed man's suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) during most of the first part of the 20th century. Nowadays, linen is one of the most preferred materials for bed sheets due to its durability and hypoallergenic properties. Linen can be up to three times stronger than cotton. This is because the cellulose fibers in linen yarn are slightly longer and wrapped tighter than those found in cotton yarn. This gives it great durability and allows linen products to be long-lasting. [46] (#cite_note-46) Currently researchers are working on a cotton/flax blend to create new yarns which will improve the feel of denim during hot and humid weather. [47] (#cite_note-agr_research-47) Conversely, some brands such as 100% Capri specially treat the linen to look like denim. [48] (#cite_note-MH-48) Linen fabric is one of the preferred traditional supports for oil painting (/wiki/Oil_painting) . In the United States cotton is popularly used instead, as linen is many times more expensive there, restricting its use to professional painters. In Europe, however, linen is usually the only fabric support available in art shops; in the UK both are freely available with cotton being cheaper. Linen is preferred to cotton for its strength, durability and archival (/wiki/Archival) integrity. [ citation needed ] Linen is also used extensively by artisan bakers. Known as a couche, the flax cloth is used to hold the dough into shape while in the final rise, just before baking. The couche is heavily dusted with flour which is rubbed into the pores of the fabric. Then the shaped dough is placed on the couche. The floured couche makes a "non stick" surface to hold the dough. Then ridges are formed in the couche to keep the dough from spreading. In the past, linen was also used for books (the only surviving example of which is the Liber Linteus (/wiki/Liber_Linteus) ). Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) linen was used for shields (/wiki/Shield) , gambesons (/wiki/Gambeson) , and bowstrings (/wiki/Bowstring) ; in classical antiquity (/wiki/Classical_antiquity) it was used to make a type of body armour, referred to as a linothorax (/wiki/Linothorax) . Additionally, linen was commonly used to make riggings, sail-cloths, nets, ropes, and canvases because the tensility (/wiki/Tensility) of the cloth would increase by 20% when wet. [49] (#cite_note-49) Because of its strength when wet, Irish linen (/wiki/Irish_linen) is a very popular wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to its absorption of sweat from hands. [50] (#cite_note-50) In 1923, the German city Bielefeld (/wiki/Bielefeld) issued banknotes (/wiki/Banknote) printed on linen. [51] (#cite_note-51) United States currency paper is made from 25% linen and 75% cotton. [52] (#cite_note-52) Flax fiber [ edit ] Main article: Flax (/wiki/Flax) Description [ edit ] Flax (/wiki/Flax) stem cross-section, showing locations of underlying tissues. Ep = epidermis (/wiki/Epidermis_(botany)) ; C = cortex (/wiki/Cortex_(botany)) ; BF = bast fibres; P = phloem (/wiki/Phloem) ; X = xylem (/wiki/Xylem) ; Pi = pith (/wiki/Pith) Linen is a bast fiber (/wiki/Bast_fibre) . Flax fibers vary in length from about 25 to 150 mm (1 to 6 in (/wiki/Inch) ) and average 12–16 micrometers (/wiki/Micrometre) in diameter. There are two varieties: shorter tow fibers used for coarser fabrics and longer line fibers used for finer fabrics. Flax fibers can usually be identified by their “nodes” which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric. The cross-section of the linen fiber is made up of irregular polygonal (/wiki/Polygon) shapes which contribute to the coarse texture of the fabric. [53] (#cite_note-classifications-53) Properties [ edit ] Linen fabric feels cool to touch, a phenomenon which indicates its higher conductivity (the same principle that makes metals feel "cold"). It is smooth, making the finished fabric lint-free, and gets softer the more it is washed. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during laundering. Linen's poor elasticity means that it easily wrinkles. Mildew, perspiration, and bleach can damage the fabric, but because it is not made from animal fibers ( keratin (/wiki/Keratin) ) it is impervious to clothes moths (/wiki/Clothes_moth) and carpet beetles (/wiki/Varied_carpet_beetle) . Linen is relatively easy to take care of, since it resists dirt and stains, has no lint or pilling (/wiki/Pill_(textile)) tendency, and can be dry-cleaned, machine-washed, or steamed. It can withstand high temperatures, and has only moderate initial shrinkage (/wiki/Shrinkage_(fabric)) . [53] (#cite_note-classifications-53) Linen should not be dried too much by tumble drying, and it is much easier to iron when damp. Linen wrinkles very easily, and thus some more formal garments require ironing often, in order to maintain perfect smoothness. Nevertheless, the tendency to wrinkle is often considered part of linen's particular "charm", and many modern linen garments are designed to be air-dried on a good clothes hanger and worn without the necessity of ironing. A characteristic often associated with linen yarn is the presence of slubs (/wiki/Slub_(textiles)) , or small, soft, irregular lumps, which occur randomly along its length. In the past, slubs were traditionally considered to be defects, and were associated with low-quality linen. However, in the case of many present-day linen fabrics, particularly in the decorative furnishing industry, slubs are considered as part of the aesthetic appeal of an expensive natural product. In addition, slubs do not compromise the integrity of the fabric, and therefore they are not viewed as a defect. However, the very finest linen has very consistent diameter threads, with no slubs at all. Linen can degrade (/wiki/Biodegradation) in a few weeks when buried in soil. Linen is more biodegradable than cotton, making it an eco friendly fiber. [54] (#cite_note-54) Measure [ edit ] The standard measure of bulk linen yarn is the "lea", which is the number of yards in a pound of linen divided by 300. For example, a yarn having a size of 1 lea will give 300 yards per pound. The fine yarns used in handkerchiefs, etc. might be 40 lea, and give 40x300 = 12,000 yards per pound. This is a specific length therefore an indirect measurement of the fineness of the linen, i.e., the number of length units per unit mass. The symbol is NeL. The metric unit, Nm, is more commonly used in continental Europe. This is the number of 1,000 m lengths per kilogram. In China, the English Cotton system unit, NeC, is common. This is the number of 840 yard lengths in a pound. Production method [ edit ] Main article: Flax § Preparation for spinning (/wiki/Flax#Preparation_for_spinning) See also: hand processing flax (/wiki/Textile_manufacturing#Flax) Linen is laborious to manufacture. [55] (#cite_note-55) Details of the flax plant, from which linen fibers are derived Mechanical baling (/wiki/Baler) of flax in Belgium (/wiki/Belgium) . On the left side, cut flax is waiting to be baled. The quality of the finished linen product is often dependent upon growing conditions and harvesting (/wiki/Harvesting) techniques. To generate the longest possible fibers, flax is either hand-harvested by pulling up the entire plant or stalks are cut very close to the root. After harvesting, the plants are dried, and then the seeds are removed through a mechanized process called “rippling” ( threshing (/wiki/Threshing) ) and winnowing (/wiki/Winnowing) . Retting, scutching, and heckling (narration in German) Handweaving of linen (narration in German) The fibers must then be loosened from the stalk. This is achieved through retting (/wiki/Retting) , a process which uses bacteria to decompose the pectin that binds the fibers together. Natural retting methods take place in tanks and pools, or directly in the fields. There are also chemical retting methods; these are faster, but are typically more harmful to the environment and to the fibers themselves. After retting, the stalks are ready for scutching (/wiki/Scutching) , which takes place between August and December. Scutching removes the woody portion of the stalks by crushing them between two metal rollers, so that the parts of the stalk can be separated. The fibers are removed and the other parts such as linseed (/wiki/Linseed#Flax_seeds) , shives (/wiki/Shives) , and tow (/wiki/Tow_(fibre)) are set aside for other uses. Next the fibers are heckled (/wiki/Heckling_(flax)) : the short fibers are separated with heckling combs (/wiki/Heckling_comb) by 'combing' them away, to leave behind only the long, soft flax fibers. After the fibers have been separated and processed, they are typically spun into yarns and woven or knit into linen textiles. These textiles can then be bleached, dyed, printed on, or finished with a number of treatments or coatings. [53] (#cite_note-classifications-53) An alternate production method is known as “cottonizing” which is quicker and requires less equipment. The flax stalks are processed using traditional cotton machinery; however, the finished fibers often lose the characteristic linen look. Producers [ edit ] In 2018, according to the United Nations (/wiki/United_Nations) ' repository of official international trade statistics, China was the top exporter of woven linen fabrics by trade value, with a reported $732.3 million in exports; Italy ($173.0 million), Belgium ($68.9 million) and the United Kingdom ($51.7 million) were also major exporters. [56] (#cite_note-56) See also [ edit ] Belgian Linen (/wiki/Belgian_Linen) , a linen known for its high quality Butcher's linen (/wiki/Butcher%27s_linen) a strong heavy linen cloth, primarily used for butchers' aprons. Crash (fabric) (/wiki/Crash_(fabric)) Crash fabric is coarse linen based rugged material made from both dyed (/wiki/Dyeing) and raw yarns. Dorrock (/w/index.php?title=Dorrock&action=edit&redlink=1) , a stout linen table cloth made in Scotland (/wiki/Scotland) . Dowlas (/wiki/Dowlas) , a strong linen mentioned by Shakespeare Linenize (/wiki/Linenize) Linothorax (/wiki/Linothorax) , armor of layers of linen Madapollam (/wiki/Madapollam) , a fabric manufactured from cotton yarn in a linen-style weave Pleated linen (/wiki/Pleated_linen) , a form of processing linen resulting in a fabric which is heavily pleated (/wiki/Pleat) and does not crease like normal linen fabric. Ramie (/wiki/Ramie) , another type of bast fiber with similar properties Silesia (cloth) (/wiki/Silesia_(cloth)) , a linen fabric, manufactured in Silesia, a province of Prussia (/wiki/Prussia) . References [ edit ] ^ a b "Profiles of 15 of the world's major plant and animal fibres" (http://www.fao.org/natural-fibres-2009/about/15-natural-fibres/en/) . International Year of Natural Fibres 2009 . Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations . Retrieved 15 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "What Is Cotton and What Is Linen? 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Online Etymology Dictionary. Douglas Harper, Historian. "Lining \| Define Lining at Dictionary.com" (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/lining) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20141006115259/http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/lining) from the original on 2014-10-06 . Retrieved 2014-10-04 . (accessed: October 3, 2014). ^ (#cite_ref-45) Hakoo, Ashok (2018-03-28). "Characteristics of Flax/Linen Fiber" (https://www.textileschool.com/2632/linen-fiber-from-flax-plants-and-the-linen-fabrics/) . Textile School . Retrieved 2024-03-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) Behera, B. K. (2007-03-01). "Comfort and Handle Behaviour of Linen-Blended Fabrics" (https://www.degruyter.com/document/doi/10.1515/aut-2007-070104/html) . AUTEX Research Journal . 7 (1): 33–47. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1515/aut-2007-070104 (https://doi.org/10.1515%2Faut-2007-070104) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2300-0929 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2300-0929) . ^ (#cite_ref-agr_research_47-0) "Flax Fiber Offers Cotton Cool Comfort". Agricultural Research . November 2005. ^ (#cite_ref-MH_48-0) "Just add water" (https://www.miamiherald.com/latest-news/article1964798.html) . Miami Herald . 5 June 2014 . Retrieved 11 March 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-49) Textiles and the Medieval Economy: Production, Trade, and Consumption of Textiles, 8th–16th Centuries . Vol. 16. Oxbow Books. 2015. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2307/j.ctvh1dm0t (https://doi.org/10.2307%2Fj.ctvh1dm0t) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-78925-209-5 . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) j.ctvh1dm0t (https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctvh1dm0t) . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Game and Entertain. "Complete Guide to Pool Cue Wraps: Everything You Need to Know" (https://gameandentertain.com/complete-guide-to-pool-cue-wraps-everything-you-need-to-know/) . Game and Entertain . Retrieved 2024-02-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) Walter Grasser / Albert Pick (1972). Das Bielefelder Stoffgeld 1917-1923 . Berlin, Germany: Erich Pröh. ^ (#cite_ref-52) "U.S. Currency" (https://www.moneyfactory.gov/hmimpaperandink.html) . Bureau of Engraving and Printing . U.S. Department of the Treasury . Retrieved 12 May 2020 . ^ a b c Classifications & Analysis of Textiles: A Handbook by Karen L. LaBat, Ph.D. and Carol J. Salusso, Ph.A. University of Minnesota, 2003 ^ (#cite_ref-54) Arnett, George (29 November 2019). "How quickly do fashion materials biodegrade?" (https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/fashion-biodegradable-material-circularity-cotton) . Vogue Business . Conde Nast . Retrieved 27 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-55) Hakoo, Ashok (28 March 2018). "Linen Fiber and Linen Fabrics from the Flax Plants" (https://www.textileschool.com/2632/linen-fiber-from-flax-plants-and-the-linen-fabrics/) . TextileSchool . Retrieved 15 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-56) "5309 - Woven fabrics of flax" (https://comtrade.un.org/data/) . UN Comtrade Database . Retrieved 13 May 2020 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Linen (flax) (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Linen_(flax)) . Look up linen (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/linen) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Wikisource (/wiki/Wikisource) has the text of the 1921 Collier's Encyclopedia (/wiki/Collier%27s_Encyclopedia) article Linen (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Collier%27s_New_Encyclopedia_(1921)/Linen) . v t e Fibers (/wiki/Fiber) Natural (/wiki/Natural_fiber) Plant (/wiki/Fiber_crop) Abacá (/wiki/Abac%C3%A1) Bagasse (/wiki/Bagasse) Bamboo (/wiki/Bamboo_textile) Bashō (/wiki/Musa_basjoo) Coir (/wiki/Coir) Cotton (/wiki/Cotton) Fique (/wiki/Fique) Flax (/wiki/Flax) Linen Hemp (/wiki/Hemp) Jute (/wiki/Jute) Kapok (/wiki/Ceiba_pentandra) Kenaf (/wiki/Kenaf) Lotus silk (/wiki/Lotus_silk) Piña (/wiki/Pi%C3%B1a) Pine (/wiki/Vegetable_flannel) Raffia (/wiki/Raffia_palm) Ramie (/wiki/Ramie) Rattan (/wiki/Rattan) Sisal (/wiki/Sisal) Wood (/wiki/Wood_fibre) Animal (/wiki/Animal_fiber) Alpaca (/wiki/Alpaca_fiber) Angora (/wiki/Angora_wool) Byssus (/wiki/Byssus) Camel hair (/wiki/Camel_hair) Cashmere (/wiki/Cashmere_wool) Catgut (/wiki/Catgut) Chiengora (/wiki/Chiengora) Guanaco (/wiki/Guanaco#Guanaco_fiber) Hair (/wiki/Hair) Llama (/wiki/Llama#Fiber) Mohair (/wiki/Mohair) Pashmina (/wiki/Pashmina_(material)) Qiviut (/wiki/Qiviut) Rabbit (/wiki/Rabbit_hair) Silk (/wiki/Silk) Tendon (/wiki/Tendon) Spider silk (/wiki/Spider_silk) Wool (/wiki/Wool) Vicuña (/wiki/Vicu%C3%B1a#Vicuña_wool) Yak (/wiki/Yak_fiber) Mineral (/wiki/Mineral_fiber) Asbestos (/wiki/Asbestos) Synthetic (/wiki/Fiber#Chemical) Regenerated (/wiki/Regenerated_fiber) Artificial silk (/wiki/Artificial_silk) Milk fiber (/wiki/Milk_fiber) Semi-synthetic (/wiki/Semi-synthetic_fiber) Acetate (/wiki/Cellulose_acetate) Diacetate (/wiki/Cellulose_diacetate) Lyocell (/wiki/Lyocell) Modal (/wiki/Modal_(textile)) Rayon (/wiki/Rayon) Triacetate (/wiki/Cellulose_triacetate) Mineral (/wiki/Mineral_fiber) Glass (/wiki/Glass_fiber) Carbon (/wiki/Carbon_fibers) Basalt (/wiki/Basalt_fiber) Metallic (/wiki/Metallic_fiber) Polymer (/wiki/Fiber#Polymer_fibers) Acrylic (/wiki/Acrylic_fiber) Aramid (/wiki/Aramid) Twaron (/wiki/Twaron) Kevlar (/wiki/Kevlar) Technora (/wiki/Technora) Nomex (/wiki/Nomex) Microfiber (/wiki/Microfiber) Modacrylic (/wiki/Modacrylic) Nylon (/wiki/Nylon) Olefin (/wiki/Olefin_fiber) Polyester (/wiki/Polyester) Polyethylene (/wiki/Polyethylene) UHMWPE (/wiki/Ultra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene) Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) Vectran (/wiki/Vectran) Vinylon (/wiki/Vinylon) Vinyon (/wiki/Vinyon) Zylon (/wiki/Zylon) Category (/wiki/Category:Fibers) Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fibers) v t e Fabric (/wiki/Textile) Types Woven (/wiki/Woven_fabric) Abacá cloth (/wiki/Abac%C3%A1#Textiles) (Medriñaque) Aertex (/wiki/Aertex) Armazine (/wiki/Armazine) Almerían silk (/wiki/Almer%C3%ADan_silk) Barathea (/wiki/Barathea) Barkcloth (/wiki/Barkcloth) Batiste (/wiki/Batiste) Bedford cord (/wiki/Bedford_cord) Bengaline (/wiki/Bengaline) Beta cloth (/wiki/Beta_cloth) Bombazine (/wiki/Bombazine) Brilliantine (/wiki/Brilliantine_(fabric)) Broadcloth (/wiki/Broadcloth) Buckram (/wiki/Buckram) Bunting (/wiki/Bunting_(textile)) Burlap (/wiki/Hessian_fabric) Byrd Cloth (/wiki/Byrd_Cloth) C change (/wiki/C_change) Calico (/wiki/Calico) Cambric (/wiki/Cambric) Canvas (/wiki/Canvas) Chambray (/wiki/Cambric) Capilene (/wiki/Capilene) Cedar bark textile (/wiki/Cedar_bark_textile) Challis (/wiki/Challis_(fabric)) Char cloth (/wiki/Char_cloth) Charmeuse (/wiki/Charmeuse) Charvet (/wiki/Charvet_(fabric)) Cheesecloth (/wiki/Cheesecloth) Chiffon (/wiki/Chiffon_(fabric)) Chino (/wiki/Chino_cloth) Chintz (/wiki/Chintz) Cloqué (/wiki/Cloqu%C3%A9) Cloth of gold (/wiki/Cloth_of_gold) Cordura (/wiki/Cordura) Corduroy (/wiki/Corduroy) Cotton duck (/wiki/Cotton_duck) Coutil (/wiki/Coutil) Crêpe (/wiki/Cr%C3%AApe_(textile)) Cretonne (/wiki/Cretonne) Denim (/wiki/Denim) Dimity (/wiki/Dimity) Donegal tweed (/wiki/Donegal_tweed) Dornix (/wiki/Dornix) Dowlas (/wiki/Dowlas) Drill (/wiki/Drill_(fabric)) Drugget (/wiki/Drugget) Eolienne (/wiki/Eolienne) Flannel (/wiki/Flannel) Foulard (/wiki/Foulard) Fustian (/wiki/Fustian) Gabardine (/wiki/Gabardine) Gauze (/wiki/Gauze) Gazar (/wiki/Gazar) Georgette (/wiki/Georgette_(fabric)) Ghalamkar (/wiki/Ghalamkar) Gingham (/wiki/Gingham) Grenadine (/wiki/Grenadine_(cloth)) Grenfell Cloth (/wiki/Grenfell_Cloth) Grosgrain (/wiki/Grosgrain) Habutai (/wiki/Habutai) Haircloth (/wiki/Haircloth) Harris tweed (/wiki/Harris_tweed) Herringbone (/wiki/Herringbone_(cloth)) Himroo (/wiki/Himroo) Hodden (/wiki/Hodden) Irish linen (/wiki/Irish_linen) Jamdani (/wiki/Jamdani) Kerseymere (/wiki/Kerseymere) Khādī (/wiki/Kh%C4%81d%C4%AB) Khaki drill (/wiki/Khaki_drill) Kijōka-bashōfu (/wiki/Kij%C5%8Dka-bash%C5%8Dfu) Kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) Lamé (/wiki/Lam%C3%A9_(fabric)) Lawn (/wiki/Lawn_cloth) Linsey-woolsey (/wiki/Linsey-woolsey) Loden (/wiki/Loden_cape) Longcloth (/wiki/Longcloth) Mackinaw (/wiki/Mackinaw_cloth) Madapollam (/wiki/Madapollam) Madras (/wiki/Madras_(cloth)) Moleskin (/wiki/Moleskin) Muslin (/wiki/Muslin) Nainsook (/wiki/Nainsook) Nankeen (/wiki/Nankeen) Ninon (/wiki/Ninon) Oilskin (/wiki/Oilskin) Organdy (/wiki/Organdy) Organza (/wiki/Organza) Osnaburg (/wiki/Osnaburg) Ottoman (/wiki/Ottoman_(textile)) Oxford (/wiki/Oxford_(cloth)) Paduasoy (/wiki/Paduasoy) Percale (/wiki/Percale) Perpetuana (/wiki/Perpetuana) Pongee (/wiki/Pongee) Poplin (/wiki/Poplin) Rakematiz (/wiki/Rakematiz) Rayadillo (/wiki/Rayadillo) Rep (/wiki/Rep_(fabric)) Ripstop (/wiki/Ripstop) Russell cord (/wiki/Russell_cord) Saga Nishiki (/wiki/Saga_Nishiki) Samite (/wiki/Samite) Sateen (/wiki/Sateen) Satin (/wiki/Satin) Saye (/wiki/Saye) Scarlet (/wiki/Scarlet_(cloth)) Seerhand muslin (/wiki/Seerhand_muslin) Seersucker (/wiki/Seersucker) Sendal (/wiki/Sendal) Serge (/wiki/Serge_(fabric)) Scrim (/wiki/Scrim_(material)) Shot silk (/wiki/Shot_silk) Stuff (/wiki/Stuff_(cloth)) Taffeta (/wiki/Taffeta) Tais (/wiki/Tais) Tartan (/wiki/Tartan) Ticking (/wiki/Ticking) Toile (/wiki/Toile) Tucuyo (/wiki/Tucuyo) Tweed (/wiki/Tweed) Twill (/wiki/Twill) Ultrasuede (/wiki/Ultrasuede) Vegetable flannel (/wiki/Vegetable_flannel) Ventile (/wiki/Ventile) Vinyl coated polyester (/wiki/Vinyl_coated_polyester) Viyella (/wiki/Viyella) Voile (/wiki/Voile) Wadmal (/wiki/Wadmal) Waffle (/wiki/Waffle_fabric) Wigan (/wiki/Wigan_(fabric)) Whipcord (/wiki/Whipcord) Zephyr (/wiki/Zephyr_cloth) Zorbeez (/wiki/Zorbeez) Figured woven Brocade (/wiki/Brocade) Camlet (/wiki/Camlet) Damask (/wiki/Damask) Lampas (/wiki/Lampas) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Rinzu (/wiki/Rinzu) Pile woven (/wiki/Pile_(textile)) Baize (/wiki/Baize) Chenille (/wiki/Chenille_fabric) Corduroy (/wiki/Corduroy) Crimplene (/wiki/Crimplene) Fustian (/wiki/Fustian) Mockado (/wiki/Mockado) Moquette (/wiki/Moquette) Plush (/wiki/Plush) Polar fleece (/wiki/Polar_fleece) Terrycloth (/wiki/Terrycloth) Velours du Kasaï (/wiki/Velours_du_Kasa%C3%AF) Velvet (/wiki/Velvet) Velveteen (/wiki/Velveteen) Zibeline (/wiki/Zibeline) Nonwoven (/wiki/Nonwoven_fabric) Felt (/wiki/Felt) Cedar bark (/wiki/Cedar_bark_textile) Knitted (/wiki/Knitted_fabric) Boiled wool (/wiki/Boiled_wool) Coolmax (/wiki/Coolmax) Machine knitting (/wiki/Knitting_machine) Milliskin (/wiki/Milliskin) Jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(fabric)) Velour (/wiki/Velour) Netted (/wiki/Net_(textile)) Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Carbon fibers (/wiki/Carbon_fibers) Lace (/wiki/Lace) Mesh (/wiki/Mesh) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Ninon (/wiki/Ninon) Tulle (/wiki/Tulle_netting) Technical (/wiki/Technical_textile) Ballistic nylon (/wiki/Ballistic_nylon) Ban-Lon (/wiki/Ban-Lon) Conductive textile (/wiki/Conductive_textile) Darlexx (/wiki/Darlexx) E-textiles (/wiki/E-textiles) Gannex (/wiki/Gannex) Gore-Tex (/wiki/Gore-Tex) Lenticular fabric (/wiki/Lenticular_fabric) Silnylon (/wiki/Silnylon) Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) Stub-tex (/wiki/Stub-tex) SympaTex (/wiki/SympaTex) Windstopper (/wiki/Windstopper) Patterns Argyle (/wiki/Argyle_(pattern)) Bizarre silk (/wiki/Bizarre_silk) Check (/wiki/Check_(pattern)) Chiné (/wiki/Warp_printing) Glen plaid (/wiki/Glen_plaid) Herringbone (/wiki/Herringbone_(cloth)) Houndstooth (/wiki/Houndstooth) Kelsch (/wiki/Kelsch_d%27Alsace) Paisley (/wiki/Paisley_(design)) Pinstripes (/wiki/Pinstripes) Polka dot (/wiki/Polka_dot) Shweshwe (/wiki/Shweshwe) Tartan or plaid (/wiki/Tartan) Tattersall (/wiki/Tattersall_(cloth)) Textile fibers (/wiki/Fiber) Abacá (/wiki/Abac%C3%A1) (Manila hemp) Acrylic (/wiki/Acrylic_fiber) Alpaca (/wiki/Alpaca_fiber) Angora (/wiki/Angora_wool) Bashō (/wiki/Musa_basjoo) Cashmere (/wiki/Cashmere_wool) Coir (/wiki/Coir) Cotton (/wiki/Cotton) Eisengarn (/wiki/Eisengarn) Hemp (/wiki/Hemp) Jute (/wiki/Jute) Kevlar (/wiki/Kevlar) Linen Mohair (/wiki/Mohair) Nylon (/wiki/Nylon) Microfiber (/wiki/Microfiber) Olefin (/wiki/Olefin_fiber) Pashmina (/wiki/Pashmina) Polyester (/wiki/Polyester) Piña (/wiki/Pi%C3%B1a) Ramie (/wiki/Ramie) Rayon (/wiki/Rayon) Sea silk (/wiki/Sea_silk) Silk (/wiki/Silk) Sisal (/wiki/Sisal) Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) Spider silk (/wiki/Spider_silk) Wool (/wiki/Wool) Finishing (/wiki/Finishing_(textiles)) and printing (/wiki/Textile_printing) Androsia (/wiki/Androsia) Batik (/wiki/Batik) Beetling (/wiki/Beetling) Bingata (/wiki/Bingata) Bògòlanfini (/wiki/B%C3%B2g%C3%B2lanfini) Burnout (/wiki/Devor%C3%A9) Calendering (/wiki/Calendering_(textiles)) Decatising (/wiki/Decatising) Devoré (/wiki/Devor%C3%A9) Finishing (/wiki/Finishing_(textiles)) Fulling (/wiki/Fulling) Heatsetting (/wiki/Heatsetting) Indienne (/wiki/Indienne) Kasuri (/wiki/Kasuri) Katazome (/wiki/Katazome) Mercerization (/wiki/Mercerised_cotton) Moire (/wiki/Moire_(fabric)) Nap (/wiki/Nap_(textile)) Parchmentising (/wiki/Parchmentising) Rogan printing (/wiki/Rogan_printing) Rōketsuzome (/wiki/R%C5%8Dketsuzome) Roller printing (/wiki/Roller_printing_on_textiles) Sanforization (/wiki/Sanforization) Tenterhook (/wiki/Tenterhook) Textile printing (/wiki/Textile_printing) Tsutsugaki (/wiki/Tsutsugaki) Warp printing (/wiki/Warp_printing) Waxed cotton (/wiki/Waxed_cotton) Woodblock printing (/wiki/Woodblock_printing_on_textiles) Yūzen (/wiki/Y%C5%ABzen) Fabric mills Carlo Barbera (/wiki/Carlo_Barbera) Cerruti (/wiki/Lanificio_Fratelli_Cerruti) Dormeuil (/wiki/Dormeuil) E. Thomas (/wiki/E._Thomas) Holland & Sherry (/wiki/Holland_%26_Sherry) Larusmiani (/wiki/Larusmiani) Loro Piana (/wiki/Loro_Piana) Piacenza (/wiki/Fratelli_Piacenza) Reda (/wiki/Reda_(fabric_mill)) Scabal (/wiki/Scabal) Vitale Barberis Canonico (/wiki/Vitale_Barberis_Canonico) Zegna (/wiki/Zegna) Manufacturing industry Design (/wiki/Textile_design) Manufacturing (/wiki/Textile_manufacturing) Performance (/wiki/Textile_performance) Preservation (/wiki/Textile_preservation) Recycling (/wiki/Textile_recycling) Terminology (/wiki/Glossary_of_textile_manufacturing) Related Dyeing (/wiki/Dyeing) Fiber (/wiki/Fiber) History of textiles (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) History of silk (/wiki/History_of_silk) Knitting (/wiki/Knitting) Pandy (/wiki/Fulling_mill) Shrinkage (/wiki/Shrinkage_(fabric)) Swatches and strike-offs (/wiki/Textile_sample) Synthetic fabric (/wiki/Synthetic_fabric) Weaving (/wiki/Weaving) Yarn (/wiki/Yarn) v t e Clothing materials and parts Garment structures Armscye (/wiki/Armscye) Collar (/wiki/Collar_(clothing)) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Collar stays (/wiki/Collar_stays) Detachable collar (/wiki/Detachable_collar) Cuff (/wiki/Cuff) Dart (/wiki/Dart_(sewing)) Facing (/wiki/Facing_(sewing)) Fly (/wiki/Fly_(clothing)) Lapel (/wiki/Lapel) Gore (/wiki/Gore_(segment)) Hem (/wiki/Hem) Lining (/wiki/Lining_(sewing)) Placket (/wiki/Placket) Pleat (/wiki/Pleat) Pocket (/wiki/Pocket) Revers (/wiki/Revers) Ruffle (/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)) Shoulder pad (/wiki/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)) Strap (/wiki/Shoulder_strap) Sleeve (/wiki/Sleeve) Train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) Waistband (/wiki/Waistband) Yoke (/wiki/Yoke_(clothing)) Textiles (/wiki/Textile) Natural Cotton (/wiki/Cotton) Fur (/wiki/Fur_clothing) Linen Silk (/wiki/Silk) Wool (/wiki/Wool) Synthetic Artificial leather (/wiki/Artificial_leather) Elastic (/wiki/Elastomer) Nylon (/wiki/Nylon) Polyester (/wiki/Polyester) Rayon (/wiki/Rayon) Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) Animal hides (/wiki/Hide_(skin)) / leather (/wiki/Leather) Calf (/wiki/Calfskin) Deer (/wiki/Buckskin_(leather)) Goat (/wiki/Goatskin_(material)) Kangaroo (/wiki/Kangaroo_leather) Ostrich (/wiki/Ostrich_leather) Seal (/wiki/Sealskin) Sheep (/wiki/Sheepskin) Snake (/wiki/Snakeskin) Stingray (/wiki/Shagreen) Fasteners (/wiki/Fastener) Back closure (/wiki/Back_closure) Belt hook (/wiki/Belt_hook) Buckle (/wiki/Buckle) Button (/wiki/Button) Buttonhole (/wiki/Buttonhole) Frog (/wiki/Frog_(fastening)) Shank (/wiki/Shank_(sewing)) Hook-and-eye (/wiki/Hook-and-eye_closure) Hook-and-loop (/wiki/Hook-and-loop_fastener) Velcro (/wiki/Velcro) Snap (/wiki/Snap_fastener) Zipper (/wiki/Zipper) Seams (/wiki/Seam_(sewing)) Neckline (/wiki/Neckline) Bustline (/wiki/Bustline) Waistline (/wiki/Waistline_(clothing)) Hemline (/wiki/Hemline) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) National Spain (http://catalogo.bne.es/uhtbin/authoritybrowse.cgi?action=display&authority_id=XX555249) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/4409772-4) Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007529340505171) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/sh85077187) Czech Republic (https://aleph.nkp.cz/F/?func=find-c&local_base=aut&ccl_term=ica=ph643137&CON_LNG=ENG) Other NARA (https://catalog.archives.gov/id/10637604) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐75854f7f49‐xjz5n Cached time: 20240722023049 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.829 seconds Real time usage: 1.076 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 5463/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 178759/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 7371/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 14/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 214374/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.520/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 15474667/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 867.099 1 -total 37.80% 327.802 1 Template:Reflist 15.59% 135.184 15 Template:Cite_web 12.66% 109.744 3 Template:Lang 10.58% 91.740 5 Template:Navbox 10.35% 89.764 19 Template:Cite_journal 9.93% 86.109 1 Template:Fibers 7.34% 63.629 1 Template:Short_description 6.37% 55.276 9 Template:Fix 5.16% 44.729 1 Template:Authority_control Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:56212-0!canonical and timestamp 20240722023049 and revision id 1235211855. 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French fashion designer Ramesh Nair Born 1965 Kerala Education Institut Français de la Mode (/wiki/Institut_Fran%C3%A7ais_de_la_Mode) Occupation Fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) Employer(s) Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s_International) , Joseph Duclos (/wiki/Joseph_Duclos) , Moynat (/wiki/Moynat) Ramesh Nair [1] (#cite_note-1) (born 1965) is an Indian-born fashion designer based in Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France (/wiki/France) . He has designed womenswear for Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) under Martin Margiela (/wiki/Martin_Margiela) and Jean-Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean_Paul_Gaultier) . From 2010 to 2020 he was creative director for Moynat (/wiki/Moynat) Paris. Since 2020, he has been artistic director for Joseph Duclos (https://josephduclos.com) . Early life [ edit ] Nair was born in 1965 in Kerala (/wiki/Kerala) , India (/wiki/India) , [2] (#cite_note-2) and received an eclectic schooling traveling across the country with his military family. After graduating with a degree in Botany, he attended the newly established National Institute of Fashion Technology ( NIFT (/wiki/National_Institute_of_Fashion_Technology) ), New Delhi / Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) (FIT New York. [3] (#cite_note-3) Fashion [ edit ] After graduating from NIFT (/wiki/National_Institute_of_Fashion_Technology) in fashion design, and a scholarship from the Inlaks Foundation (https://www.inlaksfoundation.org) to intern with a design house in Italy, Nair worked on projects with Yohji Yamamoto (/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto) . At this time, he also created his own design studio. In 2000, Nair moved to Paris for a Master’s programme at the Institut Français de la Mode (/wiki/Institut_Fran%C3%A7ais_de_la_Mode) (IFM) and an internship at Christian Lacroix (/wiki/Christian_Lacroix) . [4] (#cite_note-4) This was followed by a ten-year stint at Hermes Paris (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) as assistant to Martin Margiela (/wiki/Martin_Margiela) for Womenswear and then with Jean-Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean_Paul_Gaultier) . [5] (#cite_note-5) During this time Nair also created bags, accessories and jewellery for both the permanent collection as well as the runway. Leather goods [ edit ] At the end of 2010, Nair was hired by LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) to be artistic director for Moynat (/wiki/Moynat) , a trunk maker [6] (#cite_note-6) and leather goods brand [7] (#cite_note-7) that had been dormant for 30 years. [8] (#cite_note-8) Alongside the creative aspects of the work, he also took on numerous other roles in the company: [9] (#cite_note-9) research and reconstitution of archives, [10] (#cite_note-10) strategic positioning and story telling, and brand marketing. [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) In 2020 Nair, as artistic director, revived a luxury house Joseph Duclos (/wiki/Joseph_Duclos) , building on the heritage of a royal manufacture of fine leathers dating from 1754. [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Champenois, Sabrina. "Ramesh Nair : Fan de France" (https://www.liberation.fr/mode/2016/07/05/ramesh-nair-fan-de-france_1464207/) . Libération (in French) . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Ramesh Nair : "L'architecture du Kerala a nourri ma philosophie" (https://www.liberation.fr/culture/2016/03/16/ramesh-nair-l-architecture-du-kerala-a-nourri-ma-philosophie_1438319/) " (https://www.liberation.fr/culture/2016/03/16/ramesh-nair-l-architecture-du-kerala-a-nourri-ma-philosophie_1438319/) . Libération (in French) . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Neuman, Phoebe (2017-10-13). "Bespoke List: 9 Bespoke Leather Goods Makers that Go Way Beyond Your Standard Trunk" (https://robbreport.com/style/footwear/nine-designers-making-best-bespoke-leather-bags-eg17-2751132/) . Robb Report . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "L'Institut français de la mode primé par l'influent site The Business of fashion" (https://www.francetvinfo.fr/culture/mode/l-institut-francais-de-la-mode-prime-par-l-influent-site-the-business-of-fashion_3357795.html) . Franceinfo (in French). 2017-10-30 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Fashionista. "Institut Français de la Mode" (https://fashionista.com/page/institut-francais-de-la-mode) . Fashionista . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Duncan Campbell; Charlotte Rey; Gestalten (September 2014). THE CRAFT AND THE MAKERS . Gestalten. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-89955-548-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Rencontre avec Ramesh Nair, le directeur artistique de Moynat" (https://www.marieclaire.fr/rencontre-avec-ramesh-nair-le-directeur-artistique-de-moynat,1244678.asp) . Marie Claire . Retrieved 2022-03-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Rencontre avec Ramesh Nair, le directeur artistique de Moynat" (https://www.marieclaire.fr/rencontre-avec-ramesh-nair-le-directeur-artistique-de-moynat,1244678.asp) . Marie Claire (in French) . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Jérôme Bryon (2016-02-18). Moynat . Cercle D'art. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Horie, Marine de la (2019-04-28). "Ramesh Nair ouvre ses malles" (https://www.lepoint.fr/mode-design/ramesh-nair-ouvre-ses-malles-28-04-2019-2309817_265.php) . Le Point (in French) . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Seidler, Benjamin (2012-10-03). "Designers of Desire: Ramesh Nair at Moynat" (https://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/04/fashion/04iht-fmoynat04.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "How to Succeed: Ramesh Nair, creative director of Moynat" (https://www.lifestyleasia.com/hk/living/people/succeed-ramesh-nair-creative-director-moynat/) . Lifestyle Asia Hong Kong . 2018-06-28 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Neuman, Phoebe; Neuman, Phoebe (2017-10-13). "Bespoke List: 9 Bespoke Leather Goods Makers that Go Way Beyond Your Standard Trunk" (https://robbreport.com/style/footwear/nine-designers-making-best-bespoke-leather-bags-eg17-2751132/) . Robb Report . Retrieved 2022-03-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Joseph Duclos, le cuir dans la peau" (https://www.lefigaro.fr/industrie-mode/joseph-duclos-le-cuir-dans-la-peau-20210930) . LEFIGARO . 2021-09-30 . Retrieved 2022-03-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "What is the ex-artistic director of Moynat doing next? Ramesh Nair on his next steps" (https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/what-is-the-ex-artistic-director-of-moynat-doing-next-ramesh-nair-on-his-next-steps) . Vogue India . 2021-10-27 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Socha, Miles; Socha, Miles (2021-09-08). "EXCLUSIVE: Moynat's Former Designer Is Helping Revive a Leather Brand From 1754" (https://wwd.com/accessories-news/handbags/heritage-luxury-handbags-duclos-moynat-ramesh-1754-1234880776/) . WWD . Retrieved 2022-03-07 . 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Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Sport portal (/wiki/Portal:Sport) The main article for this category (/wiki/Help:Categories) is Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Sports clothing (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Sports_clothing) . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 11 subcategories, out of 11 total. B Sportswear brands (/wiki/Category:Sportswear_brands) ‎ (19 C, 369 P) C Cycling clothing (/wiki/Category:Cycling_clothing) ‎ (2 C, 9 P) D Dancewear (/wiki/Category:Dancewear) ‎ (3 C, 25 P) F Sports footwear (/wiki/Category:Sports_footwear) ‎ (3 C, 37 P, 1 F) G Sports gloves (/wiki/Category:Sports_gloves) ‎ (15 P) H Hiking apparel (/wiki/Category:Hiking_apparel) ‎ (8 P) M Sports masks (/wiki/Category:Sports_masks) ‎ (2 C, 6 P) Motorcycle apparel (/wiki/Category:Motorcycle_apparel) ‎ (4 P) R Rider apparel (/wiki/Category:Rider_apparel) ‎ (1 C, 24 P) S Swimsuits (/wiki/Category:Swimsuits) ‎ (3 C, 24 P) U Sports uniforms (/wiki/Category:Sports_uniforms) ‎ (6 C, 12 P, 631 F) Pages in category "Sportswear" The following 82 pages are in this category, out of 82 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) A Ankle brace (/wiki/Ankle_brace) Arm warmer (/wiki/Arm_warmer) Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) B Baggy green (/wiki/Baggy_green) Baseball cap (/wiki/Baseball_cap) Baseball stirrups (/wiki/Baseball_stirrups) Basketball sleeve (/wiki/Basketball_sleeve) Bloch (company) (/wiki/Bloch_(company)) Bloomers (/wiki/Bloomers) Boardwear (/wiki/Boardwear) Bodystocking (/wiki/Bodystocking) Brazilian jiu-jitsu gi (/wiki/Brazilian_jiu-jitsu_gi) C Compression garment (/wiki/Compression_garment) Cricket cap (/wiki/Cricket_cap) Cricket clothing and equipment (/wiki/Cricket_clothing_and_equipment) Crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) Cummerbund (/wiki/Cummerbund) Cycling jersey (/wiki/Cycling_jersey) Cycling kit (/wiki/Cycling_kit) D Dobok (/wiki/Dobok) Dry suit (/wiki/Dry_suit) E Exercise dress (/wiki/Exercise_dress) Extreme cold weather clothing (/wiki/Extreme_cold_weather_clothing) G Guernsey (Australian rules football) (/wiki/Guernsey_(Australian_rules_football)) Gym shorts (/wiki/Gym_shorts) Gymslip (/wiki/Gymslip) H Headband (/wiki/Headband) Headgear (martial arts) (/wiki/Headgear_(martial_arts)) Heated clothing (/wiki/Heated_clothing) Hockey jersey (/wiki/Hockey_jersey) Hockey pants (/wiki/Hockey_pants) Hockey sock (/wiki/Hockey_sock) J Jersey (clothing) (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) Jockey's cap (/wiki/Jockey%27s_cap) Jockstrap (/wiki/Jockstrap) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Judogi (/wiki/Judogi) K Kit (association football) (/wiki/Kit_(association_football)) Kurtka (/wiki/Kurtka) L Latex clothing (/wiki/Latex_clothing) Leg warmer (/wiki/Leg_warmer) Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) P Plus fours (/wiki/Plus_fours) Polo shirt (/wiki/Polo_shirt) R Rugby shirt (/wiki/Rugby_shirt) Rugby shorts (/wiki/Rugby_shorts) Rugby socks (/wiki/Rugby_socks) S Sailing wear (/wiki/Sailing_wear) Sauna suit (/wiki/Sauna_suit) Scrimmage vest (/wiki/Scrimmage_vest) Scrum cap (/wiki/Scrum_cap) Shin guard (/wiki/Shin_guard) Ski suit (/wiki/Ski_suit) Skin-tight garment (/wiki/Skin-tight_garment) Soccer shirt (/wiki/Soccer_shirt) Social impact of thong underwear (/wiki/Social_impact_of_thong_underwear) Speedsuit (/wiki/Speedsuit) Sports bra (/wiki/Sports_bra) Sports visor (/wiki/Sports_visor) Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) Springbok colours (/wiki/Springbok_colours) Stirrup pants (/wiki/Stirrup_pants) Surfwear (/wiki/Surfwear) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Sweatshirt (/wiki/Sweatshirt) Swimsuit (/wiki/Swimsuit) Competitive swimwear (/wiki/Competitive_swimwear) T Tennis Girl (/wiki/Tennis_Girl) Tights (/wiki/Tights) Toque (/wiki/Toque) Tousse (/wiki/Tousse) Tracksuit (/wiki/Tracksuit) V Võ phục (/wiki/V%C3%B5_ph%E1%BB%A5c) W Weighted clothing (/wiki/Weighted_clothing) Wetsuit (/wiki/Wetsuit) Wrestling headgear (/wiki/Wrestling_headgear) Wrestling singlet (/wiki/Wrestling_singlet) Wrist brace (/wiki/Wrist_brace) Y Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Z Zephyr (garment) (/wiki/Zephyr_(garment)) Zubaz (/wiki/Zubaz) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Sportswear&oldid=1127512123 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Sportswear&oldid=1127512123) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Sports equipment (/wiki/Category:Sports_equipment) Clothing by function (/wiki/Category:Clothing_by_function) History of fashion (/wiki/Category:History_of_fashion) Clothing by type (/wiki/Category:Clothing_by_type) Casual wear (/wiki/Category:Casual_wear) Clothing industry (/wiki/Category:Clothing_industry) Hidden category: Commons category link from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_from_Wikidata)
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British jewellery designer Shaun Leane Born 1969 (age 54–55) London (/wiki/London) , England Nationality British Occupation Jewellery designer (/wiki/Jewellery_designer) Years active 1992–present Website shaunleane.com (http://shaunleane.com/) Shaun Leane (born 8 July 1969) [1] (#cite_note-1) is a British jewellery designer best known for his sculptural pieces created for Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) . His eponymous jewellery brand is a four-time winner of the UK Jewellery Designer of the Year award. [2] (#cite_note-acasely-2) The brand went into administration on 28 May 2024 and is currently for sale. [3] (#cite_note-3) Early life and education [ edit ] Leane was born and raised in Finsbury Park (/wiki/Finsbury_Park) , London, the only child to an Irish father and an English mother. [4] (#cite_note-smower-4) His father worked in construction and his mother Diane as a mental health carer. [ citation needed ] Leane attended St. Aidan's Primary School in Finsbury Park, and then St Thomas More RC (/wiki/St_Thomas_More_Catholic_School,_Wood_Green) for secondary. Leane left school aged 14 to work for his father's construction firm. At 15, a chance meeting with a career advisor preceded Leane enrolling in a youth training scheme for jewellery design at Kingsway Princeton College of Further Education (/wiki/Westminster_Kingsway_College) in Clerkenwell (/wiki/Clerkenwell) . [4] (#cite_note-smower-4) [5] (#cite_note-galton-5) The college course was metalwork, teaching sculpture and jewellery. Leane completed the metalwork course at Princeton college and his work was noticed by a course instructor who recommended students for scholarships within the industry. He started a seven-year apprenticeship with English Traditional Jewellery in Hatton Garden (/wiki/Hatton_Garden) , where he became a classically trained goldsmith. [5] (#cite_note-galton-5) [6] (#cite_note-birth-6) [7] (#cite_note-gojd-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) It was there that he undertook antique restorations of Victorian (/wiki/Victorian_jewellery) , Art Nouveau (/wiki/Art_Nouveau) and Art Deco (/wiki/Art_Deco) jewellery. [4] (#cite_note-smower-4) Career [ edit ] In the English Traditional Jewellery workshop, Leane was mentored by Brian Joslin and Richard Bullock and learnt the disciplines of the craft, transitioning from copper to gold in six months. [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) Goldsmithing skills Leane learnt during his apprenticeship included making intricate, composite fastenings; complex setting techniques, such as invisible settings which hold square cut gems in place; and restoration of period pieces with acute attention to detail and focus on preserving their beauty from the back as well as front. [10] (#cite_note-10) Leane also repaired and restored antique jewels for dealers at Grays Antiques (/wiki/Grays_Antique_Centre) in Mayfair, Bermondsey Square Market and other antique shops. [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) [11] (#cite_note-:2-11) At 18 years old, Leane was making diamond tiaras for London's prestigious houses, including Mappin & Webb (/wiki/Mappin_%26_Webb) , Garrard (/wiki/Garrard_%26_Co) and Asprey (/wiki/Asprey) . His clients included the British royal family (/wiki/British_royal_family) . [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) Coiled Corset, created for Alexander McQueen's The Overlook Autumn/Winter 1999 In 1992, a year after completing his apprenticeship, a friend introduced Leane to Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) , who was then studying at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design (/wiki/Central_Saint_Martins_College_of_Art_and_Design) . [12] (#cite_note-cwoolton-12) [13] (#cite_note-dhowarth-13) [14] (#cite_note-fury-14) The next year, McQueen asked Leane to create Victorian-style silver fob watch chains for his show, Highland Rape (/wiki/Highland_Rape) . [12] (#cite_note-cwoolton-12) [13] (#cite_note-dhowarth-13) Leane had to teach himself new techniques to create the large finale pieces for McQueen's shows. [12] (#cite_note-cwoolton-12) Leane was soon working on eight shows a year for McQueen and Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) . [7] (#cite_note-gojd-7) His designs for McQueen went from small jewels in the early shows to larger and more avant-garde designs such as a spine skeleton corset for the Spring/Summer 1998 show Untitled . [15] (#cite_note-sroyce-15) [16] (#cite_note-coil-16) His 1996 mouthpiece, titled Repression , was originally created for the 1997 McQueen Autumn-Winter collection, and chosen by Isabella Blow (/wiki/Isabella_Blow) as part of a group of garments selected to represent fashions of 1997 in the Fashion Museum, Bath (/wiki/Fashion_Museum,_Bath) 's Dress of the Year (/wiki/Dress_of_the_Year) collection. [17] (#cite_note-lester-17) Leane worked with McQueen on a neckpiece, inspired by the neckpieces worn by the Ndebele (/wiki/Southern_Ndebele_people) women of South Africa, for McQueen's " It's a Jungle out There (/wiki/It%27s_a_Jungle_out_There_(Alexander_McQueen%27s_Collection)) " collection in 1997. [18] (#cite_note-18) It was worn by Björk (/wiki/Bj%C3%B6rk) on the cover of her 1997 album Homogenic (/wiki/Homogenic) . After creating that piece, McQueen asked Leane if he could create a similar piece to fit the entire torso, [2] (#cite_note-acasely-2) and for McQueen's Autumn/Winter 1999 catwalk show, The Overlook , Leane created the Coiled Corset, a form-encasing bodice created from coils of aluminum. [15] (#cite_note-sroyce-15) [16] (#cite_note-coil-16) [19] (#cite_note-koda-19) Artist Kees van der Graaf created a concrete cast of the body of model Laura Morgan, around which Leane created a metal corset (/wiki/Metal_corset) . [16] (#cite_note-coil-16) Leane has called the piece his highlight in working with McQueen, [15] (#cite_note-sroyce-15) and his most challenging project. [20] (#cite_note-vlau-20) He spent 16 hours a day for 10 weeks creating it. [2] (#cite_note-acasely-2) [21] (#cite_note-21) For the Spring/Summer 2000 show, Eye , Leane created a yashmak (/wiki/Yashmak) made from chainmail. [22] (#cite_note-:12-22) For the 2001 Autumn/Winter show What a Merry Go Round , Leane taught himself taxidermy (/wiki/Taxidermy) to create earrings of pheasant claws clutching Tahitian pearls. Later, Leane created star and moon headdresses for the Autumn/Winter 2007 show, In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692 , inspired by antique vintage Victorian brooches but designed to be worn as headdresses. [15] (#cite_note-sroyce-15) [23] (#cite_note-dbelcher-23) Leane and McQueen worked together until McQueen's death in 2010. [15] (#cite_note-sroyce-15) Leane gave an address at the memorial service for McQueen on 20 September 2010. [24] (#cite_note-24) A selection of over 30 pieces Leane created with McQueen were featured in the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen:_Savage_Beauty) exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) in New York in 2011, later restaged at the Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) in London in 2015. [12] (#cite_note-cwoolton-12) [14] (#cite_note-fury-14) [15] (#cite_note-sroyce-15) Shaun Leane Jewellery [ edit ] In 1998, a buyer for Harvey Nichols (/wiki/Harvey_Nichols) approached Leane with a view to stocking his first collection. This led to Leane putting together his first commercial collections, which used elements from his work for McQueen. [5] (#cite_note-galton-5) In 1999, Leane founded Shaun Leane Jewellery, a company producing jewellery collections alongside his large-scale fashion pieces, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern design and computer-aided design techniques. [7] (#cite_note-gojd-7) [25] (#cite_note-jchristie-25) Sotheby's (/wiki/Sotheby%27s) described his jewellery as "antiques of the future." [26] (#cite_note-26) Leane's designs are sold online and at retailers in Britain, Europe, the Middle East and the United States. [23] (#cite_note-dbelcher-23) Jewellery Designer Ben Rowe joined Shaun Leane in 1999 and was responsible for the creative direction of the brand until December 2016. He became a director in 2007 and was officially named Creative Director in 2011. He left Shaun Leane for a Senior Director role at Tiffany & Co. in December 2016. [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) After Rowes' departure Shaun Leane struggled creatively and the brand ultimately filed for bankruptcy in May 2024 with its assets being put up for auction. [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) Leane has worked with Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) , Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) , De Beers (/wiki/De_Beers) , Bacardi (/wiki/Bacardi) and Clé de Peau Beauté (/wiki/Cl%C3%A9_de_Peau_Beaut%C3%A9) . [6] (#cite_note-birth-6) [7] (#cite_note-gojd-7) [31] (#cite_note-jneel-31) [32] (#cite_note-asprey-32) Shaun Leane Jewellery has been acquired for the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) in New York [33] (#cite_note-33) and the Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) in London. [34] (#cite_note-34) His jewellery has been worn by Björk (/wiki/Bj%C3%B6rk) , Daphne Guinness (/wiki/Daphne_Guinness) , Sam Taylor-Johnson (/wiki/Sam_Taylor-Johnson) , Elton John (/wiki/Elton_John) , Emma Watson (/wiki/Emma_Watson) , Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) , Sarah Jessica Parker (/wiki/Sarah_Jessica_Parker) and the Hassanal Bolkiah (/wiki/Hassanal_Bolkiah) . [4] (#cite_note-smower-4) [20] (#cite_note-vlau-20) [25] (#cite_note-jchristie-25) [35] (#cite_note-vengelmann-35) Collaborations and commissions [ edit ] Leane collaborated with Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) on a necklace for the label's 150th anniversary in 2008. The 'Queen of The Night' necklace has delicate, blackened gold flowers set with white and brown diamonds and sapphires, which can open and close with hidden buttons. It was unveiled at a party at the Boucheron store in Mayfair, London (/wiki/Mayfair,_London) . [31] (#cite_note-jneel-31) Contra Mundum, 2011 Leane was commissioned by Daphne Guinness (/wiki/Daphne_Guinness) to create the Contra Mundum, also known as The Diamond Glove, a hand-crafted evening glove (/wiki/Evening_glove) crafted from 1,000 grams of 18-carat white gold and set with 5,000 pave white diamonds. The Glove was presented by Jay Jopling (/wiki/Jay_Jopling) in its debut at a private party in London in 2011. [36] (#cite_note-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-vgladstone-38) It took Leane five years to create. [38] (#cite_note-vgladstone-38) In 2011, Leane began working with jewellery house Asprey (/wiki/Asprey) on three new collections, released in May 2012: The Woodland Collection, a series of nature-inspired fine charm jewellery, and The Fern Collection, a series of emerald, diamond and platinum rings, earrings and necklaces inspired by ferns and the Storm Collection, featuring a vortex of diamonds on delicate gold wire. [32] (#cite_note-asprey-32) A charms necklace from the Woodland Collection was worn by Kate Middleton (/wiki/Kate_Middleton) , the Duchess of Cambridge. [35] (#cite_note-vengelmann-35) In 2014, SHOWstudio (/wiki/SHOWstudio) presented SHOWcabinet, the first major exhibition of Leane's work. [25] (#cite_note-jchristie-25) [39] (#cite_note-39) It was held in gallery space owned by photographer Nick Knight (/wiki/Nick_Knight_(photographer)) in 2014. [14] (#cite_note-fury-14) Leane worked with Austrian cut lead glass producer Atelier Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) to create the 2015 nine-piece jewellery collection Swift . [40] (#cite_note-40) In 2016, Leane was commissioned by Grainger Plc in collaboration with Futurecity to design the balcony railings and gates across the façade of 21 Young Street - a London residential development in Kensington, designed by Assael Architecture (/wiki/Assael_Architecture) . [41] (#cite_note-41) [42] (#cite_note-futurecity.co.uk-42) This was Leane's debut into the architectural and public realm and one of the largest scale commissions in the UK by a jewellery designer. [42] (#cite_note-futurecity.co.uk-42) [43] (#cite_note-elitetraveler.com-43) Unveiled in July 2018, Arbour consists of 36 balcony railings and two gates cast in phosphor bronze by British metalwork foundry Chris Brammall. Featuring 1,850 bronze sculpted leaves and three-dimensional branches, the entire piece weighs over four tonnes. [42] (#cite_note-futurecity.co.uk-42) The building's façade is inspired by neighbouring Kensington Square and the greenery of the private garden. [43] (#cite_note-elitetraveler.com-43) A replicate of the balcony is on permanent display in the metalwork gallery at the V&A Museum. [42] (#cite_note-futurecity.co.uk-42) [43] (#cite_note-elitetraveler.com-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) On 4 December 2017, Leane's personal archive of couture jewellery was offered for auction by Sotheby's New York in conjunction with Kerry Taylor Auctions. [45] (#cite_note-45) Several of the pieces had appeared in The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria & Albert in their retrospectives of Leane's work. [46] (#cite_note-forbes-46) Notable pieces from the sale included the Skeleton Corset designed by Leane for McQueen's Untitled collection, Spring-Summer 1998 and the Coiled Corset from The Overlook collection, Autumn-Winter 1999–2000. The Coiled Corset, the only piece signed by both Leane and McQueen, was sold for $807,000, while the Skeleton Corset was sold for $711,000 in the auction. [46] (#cite_note-forbes-46) British Royal Family [ edit ] Leane's jewels have been worn by Kate Middleton (/wiki/Kate_Middleton) , Duchess of Cambridge and Meghan Markle (/wiki/Meghan_Markle) , Duchess of Sussex. [47] (#cite_note-thejewelleryeditor-47) [48] (#cite_note-vogue-48) In 2019, Princess Beatrice (/wiki/Princess_Beatrice) and her fiancé Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi (/wiki/Edoardo_Mapelli_Mozzi) broke with royal tradition when they announced their engagement by naming Leane as the designer of the ring, a detail that Buckingham Palace (/wiki/Buckingham_Palace) does not usually reveal. [49] (#cite_note-telegraph.co.uk-49) Monograph [ edit ] In 2020, Leane published a monograph in collaboration with AAC Art Books. [50] (#cite_note-vogue.co.uk-50) The book is a retrospective that provides an insight into Leane's collaboration with McQueen through a collection of backstage photography by Ann Ray. [51] (#cite_note-51) Other notable contributions include editorial photographs by Nick Knight, catwalk and backstage images, documented by fashion photographers Robert Fairer (/wiki/Robert_Fairer) and Chris Moore. [52] (#cite_note-52) Also included are essays examining Leane's heritage and craft; collaborations with McQueen; and his modern jewellery designs. [53] (#cite_note-53) Jeffrey Felner of the New York Journal of Books wrote, "Shaun Leane is a definitive example of the genre on every level. It dazzles, it provokes, it astounds, and it teaches you what can happen when you push yourself to perfection and beyond no matter what is asked of you or what you believe is expected of you." [54] (#cite_note-54) Television [ edit ] In 2013, Leane filmed BBC (/wiki/BBC) documentary Secret Knowledge: The Cheapside Hoard for BBC Four (/wiki/BBC_Four) . The programme coincided with the much anticipated exhibition of the Cheapside Hoard (/wiki/Cheapside_Hoard) jewels at the Museum of London (/wiki/Museum_of_London) . [55] (#cite_note-:0-55) Leane's filming took place in the City of London (/wiki/City_of_London) , taking in the architecture of the past 500 years, and at the Museum of London, where Leane was granted an exclusive look at the jewels of the Cheapside Hoard. Leane was chosen by the BBC for his expertise on the long-gone 'Diamond District' of Elizabethan London. [56] (#cite_note-56) Since 2021, Leane has been a judge on BBC television series All That Glitters: Britain's Next Jewellery Star (/wiki/All_That_Glitters:_Britain%27s_Next_Jewellery_Star) . Hosted by comedian Katherine Ryan (/wiki/Katherine_Ryan) , the BBC Two (/wiki/BBC_Two) primetime show follows the format of The Great British Bake Off (/wiki/The_Great_British_Bake_Off) "but with lots of glitter". [57] (#cite_note-57) [58] (#cite_note-58) Series 1 and 2 were filmed over six episodes for each, in Birmingham (/wiki/Birmingham) 's Jewellery Quarter (/wiki/Jewellery_Quarter) . Eight competing jewellers face a set of themed challenges under time pressure in each episode. [59] (#cite_note-59) The show has not been renewed for a third season. [60] (#cite_note-60) In 2021, Leane took part in filming docu-series Art that Made Us, an eight-part programme for BBC Two, made as part of a series of programmes to celebrate the centenary of the BBC. Leane was selected by the BBC for his knowledge of the Penicuik Jewels (/wiki/Jewels_of_Mary,_Queen_of_Scots) in episode three, Queens, Feuds and Faith , which documents how the religious revolution of the 16th century created radical and surprising works of art. [61] (#cite_note-:1-61) Filming took place at the National Museum of Scotland (/wiki/National_Museum_of_Scotland) in Edinburgh (/wiki/Edinburgh) , where Leane was invited to examine the craftsmanship of the Penicuik Jewels. [61] (#cite_note-:1-61) Selected exhibitions [ edit ] Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed , Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) , New York, 2001–02 AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion (/wiki/AngloMania:_Tradition_and_Transgression_in_British_Fashion) , Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 2006 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen:_Savage_Beauty) , Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 2011 SHOWcabinet , SHOWstudio (/wiki/SHOWstudio) , 2014 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty , Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) , London, 2015 Heavenly Bodies , Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 2018 [62] (#cite_note-62) Jewelry: The Body Transformed , Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 2018–19 [63] (#cite_note-63) Honours and awards [ edit ] UK Jewellery Awards, Jewellery Designer of the Year, 2004, 2005, 2009, 2010 [2] (#cite_note-acasely-2) [64] (#cite_note-64) [65] (#cite_note-65) Britain's Luxury Jewellery Designer of the Year, 2006 [4] (#cite_note-smower-4) Luxury and Creation Talent Awards, Talent de la Séduction, 2010 [66] (#cite_note-66) Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) Jewelry China's International Designer of the Year, 2013 [67] (#cite_note-67) Walpole British Luxury, Best Luxury Craftsmanship, 2013 [68] (#cite_note-68) Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Award for Best International Jewellery Designer, 2015 [69] (#cite_note-69) UK Jewellery Awards, Fine Jewellery Brand of the Year, 2016 [70] (#cite_note-70) UK Jewellery Awards Outstanding Contribution to Industry 2021 [71] (#cite_note-71) Personal life [ edit ] Leane lives in London, England. In February 2006, he was made a Freeman of the City of London (/wiki/Freeman_of_the_City_of_London) , which is the highest honour in the city. [4] (#cite_note-smower-4) He is a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths (/wiki/Worshipful_Company_of_Goldsmiths) . References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Shaun Leane: Nose ornament" (http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/129857) . The Metropolitan Museum of Art . Retrieved 18 May 2016 . ^ a b c d Alice Casely-Hayford, "Shaun Leane: The Interview," (http://www.hungertv.com/feature/shaun-leane-interview/) Hunger TV, 12 March 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-3) https://www.professionaljeweller.com/offer-for-sale-the-business-and-assets-of-thornrose-limited-t-a-shaun-leane/ (https://www.professionaljeweller.com/offer-for-sale-the-business-and-assets-of-thornrose-limited-t-a-shaun-leane/) ^ a b c d e f Sarah Mower, "Danger: rocks," (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/3657013/Danger-rocks.html) The Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) , 9 December 2006. ^ a b c Galton, Elizabeth (November 2012). Basics Fashion Design 10: Jewellery Design: From Fashion to Fine Jewellery . A&C Black. pp. 3–6. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9782940411948 . Retrieved 18 May 2016 . ^ a b "The Birth of Shaun Leane," (http://www.professionaljeweller.com/the-birth-of-shaun-leane/) Professional Jeweller, 14 June 2010. ^ a b c d "Shaun Leane talks to GOJD," (http://www.guildofjewellerydesigners.co.uk/articles2/designer-interviews/925-shaun-leane-jewellery) Guild of Jewellery Designers. Accessed 1 February 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Wilson, Andrew (September 2015). Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath the Skin . Simon and Schuster. p. 89. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781476776736 . ^ a b c Leane, Shaun; Wilcox, Claire (2020). Shaun Leane (1st ed.). ACC Art Books. p. 38. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781788840736 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Harrison, Annabel (18 March 2019). "Shaun Leane on Alexander McQueen and Era-Defining Jewellery" (https://luxurylondon.co.uk/style/watches-and-jewellery/jewellery/shaun-leane-interview-alexander-mcqueen) . Luxury London . ^ (#cite_ref-:2_11-0) Staff Writer (10 February 2020). "London's Jewelry Garden" (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/02/10/fashion/jewelry-hatton-garden-london.html) . The New York Times . ^ a b c d Carol Woolton, "Alexander McQueen's legacy in jewellery," (https://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/0/7bd76426-c71f-11e4-9e34-00144feab7de.html) Financial Times (/wiki/Financial_Times) , 13 March 2015. ^ a b Dan Howarth, "'Alexander McQueen changed fashion and I changed jewellery' says Shaun Leane," (http://www.dezeen.com/2015/08/07/shaun-leane-exclusive-interview-alexander-mcqueen-fashion-jewellery-corsets/) De Zeen , 7 August 2015. ^ a b c Fury, Alexander (8 August 2014). "Avant-garde jeweller Shaun Leane spreads his wings at Nick Knight's" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/avant-garde-jeweller-shaun-leane-spreads-his-wings-at-nick-knights-showstudio-9652445.html) . The Independent . Retrieved 18 May 2016 . ^ a b c d e f Sarah Royce-Greensill, "Shaun Leane remembers McQueen," (https://web.archive.org/web/20150330020140/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/jewellery/65939/savage-beauty-shaun-leane-remembers-alexander-mcqueen.html) The Telegraph , 29 March 2015. ^ a b c Staff writer. " (http://www.vam.ac.uk/museumofsavagebeauty/mcq/coiled-corset) 'Coiled corset', The Museum of Savage Beauty" (http://www.vam.ac.uk/museumofsavagebeauty/mcq/coiled-corset) . The Museum of Savage Beauty . Victoria and Albert Museum . Retrieved 30 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-lester_17-0) Lester, Richard (2013). Dress of the year . Antique Collectors' Club. pp. 141–143. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781851497256 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) " (https://www.vam.ac.uk/museumofsavagebeauty/mcq/coiled-corset/) 'Coiled' corset" (https://www.vam.ac.uk/museumofsavagebeauty/mcq/coiled-corset/) . V&A . ^ (#cite_ref-koda_19-0) Koda, Harold (2003). Extreme beauty : the body transformed . New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. pp. 75–76. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-300-10312-0 . ^ a b Vanessa Lau, "Five minutes with McQueen's jewelry master, Shaun Leane," (http://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/2009/07/jewelry-designer-shaun-leane/) W (/wiki/W_(magazine)) , July 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-21) Lindsay Baker, "Alexander McQueen: Fashion's dark fairytale," (https://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20150313-fashions-dark-fairytale) BBC (/wiki/BBC) , 13 March 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-:12_22-0) "Yashmak" (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1304568/yashmak-shaun-leane/) . Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) . 2015 . Retrieved 28 July 2023 . ^ a b David Belcher, "Shaun Leane: Remembering Fierce Designs and Pheasant Claws," (https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/14/fashion/shaun-leane-alexander-mcqueen-jewelry.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) , 13 May 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-24) Dolly Jones, "The McQueen Memorial," (https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2010/09/20/alexander-mcqueen-memorial-service) Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , 20 September 2010. ^ a b c Janet Christie, "Jeweller Shaun Leane, a diamond geezer," (http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/culture/fashion/jeweller-shaun-leane-a-diamond-geezer-1-3422288) The Scotsman (/wiki/The_Scotsman) , 25 May 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Shaun Leane," (http://www.craftanddesigncouncil.org.uk/our-supporters/ambassadors/shaun-leane/) Goldsmiths' Craft and Design Council. Accessed 1 February 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-27) https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/shaun-leane-names-creative-director/ (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/shaun-leane-names-creative-director/) ^ (#cite_ref-28) https://www.professionaljeweller.com/shaun-leane-lays-plans-for-international-expansion/ (https://www.professionaljeweller.com/shaun-leane-lays-plans-for-international-expansion/) ^ (#cite_ref-29) https://www.retail-jeweller.com/news-and-insight/breaking-news-shaun-leane-falls-into-administration-06-06-2024/ (https://www.retail-jeweller.com/news-and-insight/breaking-news-shaun-leane-falls-into-administration-06-06-2024/) ^ (#cite_ref-30) https://www.professionaljeweller.com/trade-buyers-given-deadline-to-bid-for-business-and-assets-of-shaun-leane/ (https://www.professionaljeweller.com/trade-buyers-given-deadline-to-bid-for-business-and-assets-of-shaun-leane/) ^ a b Julia Neel, "Boucheron Leanes In," (https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2008/10/09/shaun-leane-for-boucheron) Vogue , 9 October 2008. ^ a b "Asprey unveils Shaun Leane designs," (http://www.professionaljeweller.com/asprey-unveils-shaun-leane-designs/) Professional Jeweller, 1 May 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-33) Shaun Leane (http://www.metmuseum.org/search-results#!/search?q=shaun%20leane) , metmuseum.org. Accessed 1 February 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-34) Shaun Leane (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/search/?listing_type=&offset=0&limit=15&narrow=&extrasearch=&q=shaun+leane&commit=Search&quality=2&objectnamesearch=&placesearch=&after=&after-adbc=AD&before=&before-adbc=AD&namesearch=&materialsearch=&mnsearch=&locationsearch=) , vam.ac.uk. Accessed 1 February 2017. ^ a b Victoria Engelmann, "A royal true: Kate Middleton stays true to her roots in classic jewellery by British brands," (http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/jewellery/kate-middleton-jewellery-on-royal-tour-stays-true-to-her-british-roots/) The Jewellery Editor , 7 May 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-36) "Daphne Guinness on the Unveiling of her Collaboration with Shaun Leane," (http://www.vogue.com/869847/daphne-guinness-on-the-unveiling-of-her-collaboration-with-shaun-leane/) Vogue , 1 July 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-37) Samantha Conti, "Daphne Guinness' Golden Glove," (http://wwd.com/eye/people/daphnes-golden-glove-3695455/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) , 1 July 2011. ^ a b Valerie Gladstone, "Jewelry Show Takes Over London Gallery," (http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/12/12/jewelry-show-takes-over-london-gallery/) New York Times , 12 December 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-39) "SHOWcabinet: Shaun Leane," (http://showstudio.com/shop/exhibition/showcabinet_shaun_leane) SHOWstudio, 23 May 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Shaun Leane Collaborates With Atelier Swarovski," (http://www.10magazine.com/news/shaun-leane-collaborates-with-atelier-swarovski) 10 Magazine (/wiki/10_Magazine_(British_magazine)) , 17 June 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-41) Magazine, Wallpaper* (27 July 2018). "Jeweller Shaun Leane upscales to gild the façade of a London apartment block" (https://www.wallpaper.com/watches-and-jewellery/force-of-nature-jeweller-shaun-leane-upscales-to-gild-the-faade-of-a-london-apartment-block) . Wallpaper* . Retrieved 15 April 2019 . ^ a b c d "First public art commission by internationally acclaimed jewellery designer Shaun Leane" (https://futurecity.co.uk/first-public-art-commission-by-internationally-acclaimed-jewellery-designer-shaun-leane-curated-by-futurecity/) . Retrieved 15 April 2019 . ^ a b c "Fine Jeweler Shaun Leane on his First Architectural Design" (https://www.elitetraveler.com/features/fine-jeweler-shaun-leane-first-architectural-design) . Elite Traveler . 19 July 2018 . Retrieved 15 April 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Jeweller Shaun Leane partners with new luxury development, 21 Young Street \| Property \| House" (https://luxurylondon.co.uk/property/house/shaun-leane-property-development-kensington) . luxurylondon.co.uk . Luxury London. 27 July 2018 . Retrieved 15 April 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Sotheby's (4 December 2017). "Couture Fashion Jewellery: The Personal Archive of Shaun Leane" (http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2017/couture-fashion-jewellery-personal-archive-shaun-leane-n09794.html) . Couture Fashion Jewellery: The Personal Archive of Shaun Leane . Retrieved 8 May 2019 . ^ a b DeMarco, Anthony. "Auction Of Shaun Leane's Couture Fashion Jewels Fetches $2.6 Million" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonydemarco/2017/12/05/auction-of-shaun-leanes-couture-fashion-jewels-fetches-2-6-million/) . Forbes . Retrieved 8 May 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-thejewelleryeditor_47-0) "A royal tour: Kate Middleton stays true to her roots in classic jewellery by British brands" (http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/jewellery/article/kate-middleton-jewellery-on-royal-tour-stays-true-to-her-british-roots/) . The Jewellery Editor . 7 May 2014 . Retrieved 30 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-vogue_48-0) "30 Of The Duchess Of Sussex's Most Stylish Moments As A Royal" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/meghan-markle-royal-fashion) . British Vogue . 31 March 2020 . Retrieved 30 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-telegraph.co.uk_49-0) Royce-Greensill, Sarah (26 September 2019). "Princess Beatrice's wedding ring designer Shaun Leane on creating her bespoke jewellery" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/jewellery/exclusive-princess-beatrices-engagement-ring-designer-shaun/) . The Telegraph . Retrieved 30 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-vogue.co.uk_50-0) "Incredible Shaun Leane For Alexander McQueen Couture Jewellery Moments" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/shaun-leane-alexander-mcqueen-book) . British Vogue . 2 July 2020 . Retrieved 6 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) Becker, Vivienne (3 April 2020). "Shaun Leane – three decades of wild jewels" (https://cms.howtospendit.ft.com/articles/208216-shaun-leane-mild-mannered-goldsmith-who-makes-wildest-jewels) . cms.howtospendit.ft.com . Retrieved 6 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) Bernstein, Beth. "Spring Summer Jewelry Reads Are Relevant And Enlightening" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/bethbernstein/2020/05/12/spring-summer-jewelry-reads-are-relevant-and-enlightening/) . Forbes . Retrieved 6 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) DeMarco, Anthony. "Phillips Partners With Shaun Leane To Launch Online Jewelry Store" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonydemarco/2020/10/01/phillips-partners-with-shaun-leane-to-launch-online-jewelry-store/) . Forbes . Retrieved 6 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-54) "a book review by Jeffrey Felner: Shaun Leane" (https://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/book-review/shaun-leane) . www.nyjournalofbooks.com . Retrieved 6 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-:0_55-0) Gomelsky, Victoria (12 November 2013). "A Famous Cache in All Its Splendor" (https://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/13/fashion/a-famous-cache-in-all-its-splendor.html) . The New York Times . ^ (#cite_ref-56) Staff Writer (15 October 2013). "Shaun Leane presents BBC's Cheapside Hoard doc" (//www.professionaljeweller.com/shaun-leane-presents-bbcs-cheapside-hoard-doc/) . Professional Jeweller . ^ (#cite_ref-57) Fowler, Suzanne (23 April 2021). "Like the BBC's Bake Off but with Lots of Glitter" (https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/23/fashion/jewelry-bbc-tv-show-all-that-glitters.html) . The New York Times . ^ (#cite_ref-58) Woolton, Carol (6 April 2021). "New BBC Show 'All That Glitters' Is Like 'Bake Off' For Jewellery" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/all-that-glitters-katherine-ryan-interview) . Vogue . ^ (#cite_ref-59) Youde, Kate (9 July 2021). "Shaun Leane: All That Glitters proves TV gold for the industry" (https://www.ft.com/content/f3a2fe3e-8564-4361-9ed8-5302856366bf) . Financial Times . ^ (#cite_ref-60) https://metro.co.uk/2023/04/07/bbc-all-that-glitters-katherine-ryans-popular-show-has-been-axed-18574790/ (https://metro.co.uk/2023/04/07/bbc-all-that-glitters-katherine-ryans-popular-show-has-been-axed-18574790/) ^ a b Staffer (7 April 2022). "Queens, Feuds & Faiths" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p0bvgz00/art-that-made-us-series-1-3-queens-feuds-and-faith) . BBC Iplayer . ^ (#cite_ref-62) "Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination" (https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2017/heavenly-bodies) . Met Museum . 5 May 2018 . Retrieved 8 May 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-63) "Jewelry: The Body Transformed" (https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2018/jewelry-the-body-transformed) . Met Museum . 31 October 2018 . Retrieved 8 May 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-64) Tom Wildhern, "Beaverbrooks is big winner at UK Jewellery Awards," (https://www.jewelleryoutlook.com/jewellery-news/uk-jewellery-awards-2009.htm) Jewellery Outlook, 19 July 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-65) "Winners of UK Jewellery Awards," (http://www.professionaljeweller.com/winners-of-uk-jewellery-awards/) Professional Jeweller, 16 July 2010. ^ (#cite_ref-66) "Anti-conventionally yours, Shaun Leane," (http://www.hongkongmadame.com/en/Anti-conventionally-yours-Shaun-Leane_a501.html) Hong Kong Madame, 1 August 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-67) "Shaun Leane wins Harper's Bazaar jewellery award," (http://www.professionaljeweller.com/shaun-leane-wins-harpers-bazaar-jewellery-award/) Professional Jeweller, 13 February 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-68) "And the Winners Are...!" (http://www.thewalpole.co.uk/Walpole-Awards-2013) Walpole, 19 November 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Shaun Leane wins Andrea Palladio Best International Jewellery Designer," (http://www.professionaljeweller.com/shaun-leane-wins-andrea-palladio-best-international-jewellery-designer-award/) Professional Jeweller, 10 September 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-70) "Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards 2016: Winners," (https://awards.retail-jeweller.com/winners-2016) Retail Jeweller, June 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-71) Faulkner, Ruth (September 2021). "UK Jewellery Awards Winners 2021" (https://www.retail-jeweller.com/events/breaking-news-uk-jewellery-awards-2021-winners-revealed-01-09-2021/) . Retail Jeweller . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://shaunleane.com/) v t e Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) Label Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(fashion_house)) Sarah Burton (/wiki/Sarah_Burton) (former creative director) Collections (/wiki/List_of_Alexander_McQueen_collections) Early years Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims (/wiki/Jack_the_Ripper_Stalks_His_Victims) (1992 graduation collection) Taxi Driver (/wiki/Taxi_Driver_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (A/W 1993)† Nihilism (/wiki/Nihilism_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (S/S 1994)‡ The Birds (/wiki/The_Birds_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (S/S 1995) Highland Rape (/wiki/Highland_Rape) (A/W 1995) The Hunger (/wiki/The_Hunger_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (S/S 1996) Dante (/wiki/Dante_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (A/W 1996) It's a Jungle Out There (/wiki/It%27s_a_Jungle_Out_There_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (A/W 1997) Joan (/wiki/Joan_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (A/W 1998) Mid-career The Overlook (/wiki/The_Overlook_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (A/W 1999) Eye (/wiki/Eye_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (S/S 2000) The Dance of the Twisted Bull (/wiki/The_Dance_of_the_Twisted_Bull) (S/S 2002) Irere (/wiki/Irere_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (S/S 2003) Pantheon ad Lucem (/wiki/Pantheon_ad_Lucem) (A/W 2004) Final works Neptune (/wiki/Neptune_(Alexander_McQueen_collection)) (S/S 2006) The Widows of Culloden (/wiki/The_Widows_of_Culloden) (A/W 2006) The Girl Who Lived in the Tree (/wiki/The_Girl_Who_Lived_in_the_Tree) (A/W 2008) Designs Armadillo shoe (/wiki/Armadillo_shoe) Bumster (/wiki/Bumster) Illusion of Kate Moss (/wiki/Illusion_of_Kate_Moss) Oyster dress (/wiki/Oyster_dress) No. 13 finale (/wiki/No._13_Finale) Union Jack coat (/wiki/Earthling_(album)) In media Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen:_Savage_Beauty) Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano (/wiki/Gods_and_Kings:_The_Rise_and_Fall_of_Alexander_McQueen_and_John_Galliano) McQueen (/wiki/McQueen_(play)) (2015 play) McQueen (/wiki/McQueen_(film)) (2018 documentary film) Related articles Isabella Blow (/wiki/Isabella_Blow) Shaun Leane Super Bowl XXXVIII halftime show controversy (/wiki/Super_Bowl_XXXVIII_halftime_show_controversy) ‡S/S = Spring/Summer †A/W = Autumn/Winter NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐c6zbl Cached time: 20240713192313 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.674 seconds Real time usage: 0.829 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 4008/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 80829/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2010/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 161769/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.400/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7855480/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 733.478 1 -total 39.94% 292.962 1 Template:Reflist 27.66% 202.881 28 Template:Cite_web 20.29% 148.832 1 Template:Infobox_person 12.10% 88.724 1 Template:Alexander_McQueen 11.91% 87.352 2 Template:Navbox 10.91% 80.027 1 Template:Short_description 6.13% 44.953 2 Template:Pagetype 5.25% 38.471 1 Template:Citation_needed 5.20% 38.145 20 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:50575081-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713192313 and revision id 1229584269. 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This category (/wiki/Help:Categories) is for Fictional characters who are Barbers (/wiki/Barber) , Hairdressers (/wiki/Hairdresser) , and Cosmetologists (/wiki/Cosmetologist) . NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐b7d4d997‐qsf9k Cached time: 20240630043055 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.024 seconds Real time usage: 0.033 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 21/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 947/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 100/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 7/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 326/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.010/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 628416/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 27.334 1 -total 100.00% 27.334 1 Template:Category_explanation 94.55% 25.845 1 Template:Hatnote Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:14884363-0!canonical and timestamp 20240630043055 and revision id 862824571. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has only the following subcategory. B The Barber of Seville (/wiki/Category:The_Barber_of_Seville) ‎ (1 C, 2 P) Pages in category "Fictional hairdressers" The following 52 pages are in this category, out of 52 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . A Della Alexander (/wiki/Della_Alexander) Jessie Anderson (The Walking Dead) (/wiki/Jessie_Anderson_(The_Walking_Dead)) Chantelle Atkins (/wiki/Chantelle_Atkins) B The Barber of Seville (/wiki/The_Barber_of_Seville) Monsieur Beaucaire (novel) (/wiki/Monsieur_Beaucaire_(novel)) Natasha Blakeman (/wiki/Natasha_Blakeman) Peggy Blumquist (/wiki/Peggy_Blumquist) Emma Brooker (/wiki/Emma_Brooker) C Marilyn Chambers (Home and Away) (/wiki/Marilyn_Chambers_(Home_and_Away)) Paul Coker (EastEnders) (/wiki/Paul_Coker_(EastEnders)) Maria Connor (/wiki/Maria_Connor) Julie Cooper (EastEnders) (/wiki/Julie_Cooper_(EastEnders)) Tracy Corkhill (/wiki/Tracy_Corkhill) D Bill Dauterive (/wiki/Bill_Dauterive) Zohan Dvir (/wiki/Zohan_Dvir) E Gino Esposito (/wiki/Gino_Esposito) F Figaro (character in operas and plays) (/wiki/Figaro_(character_in_operas_and_plays)) Denise Fox (/wiki/Denise_Fox) Freaky Fred (/wiki/Freaky_Fred) G Kirsten Gannon (/wiki/Kirsten_Gannon) J Bianca Jackson (/wiki/Bianca_Jackson) L Floyd Lawson (/wiki/Floyd_Lawson) Lori Lee (/wiki/Lori_Lee) M Reggie Mantle (/wiki/Reggie_Mantle) Martin Mertens (/wiki/Martin_Mertens) Shane McCutcheon (/wiki/Shane_McCutcheon) Carmel McQueen (/wiki/Carmel_McQueen) Fiona Middleton (/wiki/Fiona_Middleton) Mot (Star Trek) (/wiki/Mot_(Star_Trek)) N Christine Nelson (/wiki/Christine_Nelson) P Lola Pearce (/wiki/Lola_Pearce) Adolfo Pirelli (/wiki/Adolfo_Pirelli) David Platt (Coronation Street) (/wiki/David_Platt_(Coronation_Street)) Sarah Platt (/wiki/Sarah_Platt) R Niall Rafferty (/wiki/Niall_Rafferty) Audrey Roberts (/wiki/Audrey_Roberts) S Edward Scissorhands (character) (/wiki/Edward_Scissorhands_(character)) Lyn Scully (/wiki/Lyn_Scully) Shamrock (comics) (/wiki/Shamrock_(comics)) Stacey Slater (/wiki/Stacey_Slater) Bea Smith (Wentworth) (/wiki/Bea_Smith_(Wentworth)) Candice Stowe (/wiki/Candice_Stowe) The Stylist (/wiki/The_Stylist) Kirsty Sutherland (/wiki/Kirsty_Sutherland) T Theodoric of York, Medieval Barber (/wiki/Theodoric_of_York,_Medieval_Barber) Janelle Timmins (/wiki/Janelle_Timmins) Sweeney Todd (/wiki/Sweeney_Todd) Jackie Tyler (/wiki/Jackie_Tyler) W Gennie Walker (/wiki/Gennie_Walker) Chrissie Watts (/wiki/Chrissie_Watts) Dean Wicks (/wiki/Dean_Wicks) Darcy Wilde (/wiki/Darcy_Wilde) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Fictional_hairdressers&oldid=862824571 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Fictional_hairdressers&oldid=862824571) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Hairdressers (/wiki/Category:Hairdressers) Cosmetics (/wiki/Category:Cosmetics) Fictional beauticians (/wiki/Category:Fictional_beauticians)
Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐b7d4d997‐bxbdr Cached time: 20240628033123 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.056 seconds Real time usage: 0.068 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 14/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 682/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 3/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 1041/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.035/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 630273/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 56.346 1 Template:Portal 100.00% 56.346 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:19372757-0!canonical and timestamp 20240628033123 and revision id 366582899. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Pages in category "Textile companies of Taiwan" This category contains only the following page. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . F Far Eastern New Century (/wiki/Far_Eastern_New_Century) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Textile_companies_of_Taiwan&oldid=366582899 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Textile_companies_of_Taiwan&oldid=366582899) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Textile companies by country (/wiki/Category:Textile_companies_by_country) Companies of Taiwan by industry (/wiki/Category:Companies_of_Taiwan_by_industry)
Chairman of Barneys New York Fred Pressman Barney's New York Born 1923 Died July 14, 1996 (age 73) Nationality American Education B.A. Rutgers University (/wiki/Rutgers_University) Occupation Retail executive Known for Chairman of Barneys New York (/wiki/Barneys_New_York) Spouse Phyllis Pressman Children 4 Parent(s) Bertha and Barney Pressman (/wiki/Barney_Pressman) Family Louise Sunshine (/wiki/Louise_Sunshine) (niece) Fred Pressman (1923 – July 14, 1996) was the chairman of Barneys New York (/wiki/Barneys_New_York) . He assumed the role after taking over from his father, Barney Pressman (/wiki/Barney_Pressman) . Under Fred Pressman's leadership, the store changed from being a discount men's suit (/wiki/Men%27s_suit) shop to a luxury department store (/wiki/Luxury_department_store) showcasing designer fashion (/wiki/Fashion) . [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) Early life and education [ edit ] Pressman was born in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , the son of Barbara and Barney Pressman (/wiki/Barney_Pressman) . [2] (#cite_note-NYTObitBarney-2) His father founded Barneys, a clothing store that focused on selling name brand (/wiki/Brand) suits at a deep discount to the working class (/wiki/Working_class_in_the_United_States) by purchasing inventory at auctions, bankruptcies, and in odd lots. [2] (#cite_note-NYTObitBarney-2) [3] (#cite_note-Rubble-3) [4] (#cite_note-NYObservGoat-4) [5] (#cite_note-OrlSentWolves-5) He attended Rutgers University (/wiki/Rutgers_University) before enlisting in the US Army (/wiki/US_Army) . [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) In 1946, he joined the family business where he excelled at finding quality goods that he could purchase for a discount and sell using innovative marketing (/wiki/Marketing) . [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) Career [ edit ] In the late 1950s, he became chairman of the company and slowly transitioned it from a discount retailer and instead replaced the inventory with top-name designers from Europe that were relatively unknown in the United States. [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) He also added women's clothing, housewares, cosmetics and gifts. [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) He was credited with introducing Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) to the American market in 1976 as well as one of the first American retailers to sell Hubert de Givenchy (/wiki/Hubert_de_Givenchy) and Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) products. [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) In the 1970s, his sons, Gene and Bob, joined the business. [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) In the late 1980s, Barneys entered into a partnership with the Japanese retailer Isetan (/wiki/Isetan) to expand the Barneys name internationally. [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) In January 1996, Barneys filed for bankruptcy protection after a dispute with its Japanese lender. [6] (#cite_note-War-6) Barneys New York (/wiki/Barneys_New_York) flagship store Personal life [ edit ] Pressman was married to Phyllis Pressman; they had four children: [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) Bob Pressman, Gene Pressman, Elizabeth Pressman-Neubardt, [7] (#cite_note-7) and Nancy Pressman-Dressler. [6] (#cite_note-War-6) [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) His niece, Louise Sunshine (/wiki/Louise_Sunshine) , is the co-founder of the real estate marketing and sales company Sunshine Group. [8] (#cite_note-NYTWeddingBegun-8) [9] (#cite_note-RealDealSunshine-9) Death and legacy [ edit ] Pressman died on July 14, 1996, at his home in Harrison, New York (/wiki/Harrison,_New_York) , at the age of 73 of pancreatic cancer (/wiki/Pancreatic_cancer) . [1] (#cite_note-JENNIFER_STEINHAUER-1) Services were held at the Central Synagogue (/wiki/Central_Synagogue_(Manhattan)) in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) . [10] (#cite_note-10) The Fred Pressman Summer Youth Program invites high school students to intern (/wiki/Intern) and attend seminars in business etiquette, customer service, resume writing, and interviewing. [11] (#cite_note-11) References [ edit ] ^ a b c d e f g h i j k STEINHAUER, JENNIFER (July 15, 1996). "Fred Pressman, Who Elevated Barneys New York, Dies at 73" (https://www.nytimes.com/1996/07/15/nyregion/fred-pressman-who-elevated-barneys-new-york-dies-at-73.html) . New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ a b Barney Pressman, Retailing Legend, Is Dead at 96 (https://www.nytimes.com/1991/08/27/nyregion/barney-pressman-retailing-legend-is-dead-at-96.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) , STEPHANIE STROM, August 27, 1991 ^ (#cite_ref-Rubble_3-0) Los Angeles Magazine: "Barneys in Rubble" by Jesse Kornbluth (https://books.google.com/books?id=iV0EAAAAMBAJ&dq=Barney+Pressman&pg=PT79) March 1996 ^ (#cite_ref-NYObservGoat_4-0) New York Observer: "Real Goatskin and Lotsa Gas: The Pressman Saga Unzipped" By Francine Prose (https://observer.com/1999/03/real-goatskin-and-lotsa-gas-the-pressman-saga-unzipped/) March 22, 1999 ^ (#cite_ref-OrlSentWolves_5-0) Orlando Sun Sentinel: "A Tale Of Wolves Swaddled In Sheep's Clothing" By L.A. LOREK (http://articles.sun-sentinel.com/1999-05-16/entertainment/9905140687_1_retailer-barney-pressman-pressman-family-retail-store) May 16, 1999 ^ a b New York Post: "PRESSMANS MAKE WAR ON THEMSELVES OVER $" By Allyson Lieberman (https://nypost.com/1999/08/13/pressmans-make-war-on-themselves-over/) August 13, 1999 ^ (#cite_ref-7) New York Times : "Miss Pressman Becomes Bride" (https://www.nytimes.com/1989/08/27/style/miss-pressman-becomes-bride.html) August 27, 1989 ^ (#cite_ref-NYTWeddingBegun_8-0) New York Times: "Louise Sunshine, Martin S. Begun" (https://www.nytimes.com/1997/02/16/style/louise-sunshine-martin-s-begun.html) February 16, 1997 ^ (#cite_ref-RealDealSunshine_9-0) The Real Deal: "Louise Sunshine" By Lauren Elkies (http://therealdeal.com/closings/louise-sunshine/) retrieved September 27, 2015 ^ (#cite_ref-10) New York Daily News : "BARNEYS ELDER DIES" by Lawrence Goodman, Corky Siemaszko, and Orla Healy (http://www.nydailynews.com/archives/news/barneys-elder-dies-article-1.734999) July 15, 1996 ^ (#cite_ref-11) Greta Braddock, A Summer Of Opportunity For Tomorrow’s Superstars (http://thewindow.barneys.com/fred-pressman/) The Window August 18, 2014 NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐dc899b7cc‐rlvkd Cached time: 20240721174332 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.316 seconds Real time usage: 0.757 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1721/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 7273/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1336/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 10/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 13471/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.171/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3803782/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 595.738 1 -total 47.87% 285.200 1 Template:Infobox_person 33.89% 201.895 1 Template:Reflist 30.72% 182.983 1 Template:Cite_news 29.94% 178.346 1 Template:Wikidata_image 15.34% 91.402 1 Template:Short_description 8.82% 52.517 2 Template:Pagetype 6.48% 38.633 16 Template:Main_other 4.31% 25.688 21 Template:Pluralize_from_text 3.13% 18.633 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:45689580-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721174332 and revision id 1213625930. 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Type of garment Bagalbandi shown here with tied-flaps, Bagalbandi term literally translates to "tied on the side". Bagalbandi or Barabandhi or Daura is a male upper garment ; it is a typical shirt that ties on the side. It is similar to a waistcoat (/wiki/Waist_coat) in style. It has a wide section in the front that overlaps the other side, similar to a double-breasted coat (/wiki/Double_breasted) with strings attached to fasten the garment. Bagalbandi is an ethnic costume of the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/India_subcontinent) ; the garment is more associated with Hindi belt (/wiki/Hindi_belt) , Gujarat (/wiki/Gujarat) , Maharastra (/wiki/Maharastra) , Nepal (/wiki/Nepal) , along with other regions. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-Dharwar_District-3) Etymology [ edit ] Bagalbandi ( Hindi (/wiki/Hindi) : बगलबंदी, Bagalbandi, Marathi (/wiki/Marathi_language) : बाराबंदी. Barabandi, Nepali (/wiki/Nepali_language) : दौरा, Daura) is a combined colloquial (/wiki/Colloquialism) word, Bagal suggests 'side of the body' and bandhi or bandi implies to bands or 'to tie.' [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) Regional styles [ edit ] In Hindi belt (/wiki/Hindi_belt) , Rajasthan (/wiki/Rajasthan) and Gujarat (/wiki/Gujarat) it is worn with dhoti, turban and forms part of traditional male costume in the region. [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) In Hindi belt (/wiki/Hindi_belt) apart from dhoti, it is also worn with tight fitted trousers called churidar or salwar. [7] (#cite_note-7) Like most common traditional dresses with minor alterations it has also become a popular style among females today. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) [8] (#cite_note-8) It is known as " Barabandhi " in Maharashtra (/wiki/Maharashtra) and surrounding regions. The word "Bara" means "12" in Marathi language and "Bandi" means "tie", it has 12 nods, 6 in the inner side and 6 outer side. In Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Telangana an older term Angi is also used for this clothing, varying 4 to 12 nods. [3] (#cite_note-Dharwar_District-3) [9] (#cite_note-9) In Nepal, Sikkim and Darjeeling regions it is known as " Daura " [10] (#cite_note-10) It is worn with suruwal, a term also used in Gujarat for tight fitted trousers. [11] (#cite_note-11) Bagalbandi is also a clothing style characterized in Eastern and Northeast regions, notably in Bengal, Odisha, Assam and Manipur [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) See also [ edit ] Angarkha (/wiki/Angarkha) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) The Journal of the Bihar Research Society - Page 877, 1977, University of Virginia ^ (#cite_ref-2) Rajasthan [district Gazetteers].: Kota . Printed at Government Central Press. 1962. p. 252. ^ a b Dharwar District . Director, Government Print., Publications and Stationery. 1959. pp. 120, 197. ^ a b "Bagalbandi: Clothing Style From Rajasthan" (https://www.utsavpedia.com/attires/bagalbandi-2/) . Utsavpedia . 2017-03-13 . Retrieved 2021-02-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) The Journal of the Bihar Research Society - Page 877- 1977, University of Virginia ^ (#cite_ref-6) Rajasthan (India) (1982). Rajasthan [district Gazetteers].: Kota . Printed at Government Central Press. p. 60. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Kumar, Ritu (2006). Costumes and Textiles of Royal India . Antique Collectors' Club. p. 299. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-85149-509-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "A collection that's inclusive of size, age and gender orientation" (https://www.telegraphindia.com/culture/style/a-collection-thats-inclusive-of-size-age-and-gender-orientation/cid/1803256) . www.telegraphindia.com . Retrieved 2021-02-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) A Dictionary, Canarese and English - Page 12 - William Reeve · 1858 ^ (#cite_ref-10) Cross, J. P. (1996). The Call of Nepal: (A Personal Nepalese Odyssey in a Different Dimension) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781858450483 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) West Bengal District Gazetteers: Darjiling, by Amiya Kumar Banerji ... [et al (1980) [1] (https://books.google.com/books?id=KTtuAAAAMAAJ&q=nepal+suruwa) ^ (#cite_ref-12) Manipuri Bagal Bandi - https://archive.org/stream/in.ernet.dli.2015.220123/2015.220123.Manipur_djvu.txt (https://archive.org/stream/in.ernet.dli.2015.220123/2015.220123.Manipur_djvu.txt) ^ (#cite_ref-13) Ahluwalia, B. K. (1984). Social Change in Manipur . Cultural Publishing House. p. 63. 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American parody clothing company The South Butt, LLC Company type Private (/wiki/Privately_held_company) Industry Retail Wholesale Founded May 2007 ; 17 years ago ( 2007-05 ) [1] (#cite_note-sos-1) Founder James A. Winkelmann Defunct June 2011 ( 2011-06 ) Fate Terminated/Canceled [1] (#cite_note-sos-1) Headquarters St. Louis (/wiki/St._Louis) , United States Area served United States Products Clothing Outdoor gear Owner James A. Winkelmann The South Butt, LLC was an American clothing and accessories company founded in May 2007 by Jimmy Winkelmann Sr. and Jr., the latter of whom was at the time a 16-year-old student at Chaminade College Preparatory School (/wiki/Chaminade_College_Preparatory_School_(Missouri)) in St. Louis, Missouri (/wiki/St._Louis,_Missouri) . [2] (#cite_note-abc-091001-2) [3] (#cite_note-Harris-3) The South Butt dissolved in June 2011. [1] (#cite_note-sos-1) Winkelmann Jr. claimed the company was a parody of The North Face (/wiki/The_North_Face) , an American outdoor product company. [4] (#cite_note-cindy-4) In August 2008, The North Face sent a cease and desist (/wiki/Cease_and_desist) letter to Winkelmann threatening to sue him if he did not "cease all promotion and sales of South Butt products and abandon his trademark registration application." [5] (#cite_note-5) According to The North Face, his "use of the South Butt & design mark and the Never Stop Relaxing tagline [was] not defensible as a parody[.]" The North Face sought an amicable resolution of the matter, voluntary abandonment of the pending trademark application, and immediate discontinuance of the company's name, mark, and tagline. In response, Winkelmann offered to sell his company to The North Face for $1 million, an offer that he later rescinded as The South Butt grew. In December 2008, The North Face filed a lawsuit in the United States District Court for the Eastern District of Missouri (/wiki/United_States_District_Court_for_the_Eastern_District_of_Missouri) against Winkelmann, The South Butt, and Williams Pharmacy, a company which handled the products' marketing and manufacturing details. [6] (#cite_note-6) The court ordered mediation in the case, and on April 1, 2010, the parties reached a closed settlement agreement. [4] (#cite_note-cindy-4) Two days later, Winkelmann Sr. formed a company called "Why Climb Mountains" which sold "The Butt Face" products. [3] (#cite_note-Harris-3) In October 2012, the Winkelmanns admitted in court that they violated the settlement agreement with The North Face. [7] (#cite_note-7) In addition, the court ordered them to abandon a trademark registration application for The Butt Face, shut down their web store and Facebook page, surrender all merchandise, and pay $65,000, an amount that would be reduced by $1,000 for every month of compliance. References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "Business Entity Search" (https://www.sos.mo.gov/BusinessEntity/soskb/Corp.asp?2025464) . Missouri Secretary of State . Retrieved 8 December 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-abc-091001_2-0) Netter, Sarah (2009-10-01). "The North Face vs. The South Butt: Entrepreneurial Teen Undaunted by Lawsuit Threat" (https://abcnews.go.com/Business/teens-south-butt-apparel-irks-north-face/story?id=8712101) . ABC News . Retrieved 2010-03-23 . ^ Jump up to: a b Harris, Joe (2012-10-17). "South Butt Clothing Falls Off a Cliff" (http://www.courthousenews.com/2012/10/17/51356.htm) . Courthouse News Service . Retrieved 2012-10-22 . ^ Jump up to: a b Billhartz Gregorian, Cynthia (2010-04-03). "North Face, South Butt reach agreement" (http://www2.stltoday.com/news/local/metro/north-face-south-butt-reach-agreement/article_c096dec5-118f-526a-a9db-244c9ccb0358.html) . STLtoday.com . Retrieved 2011-12-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Volkmann, Kelsey (2009-09-28). "St. Louis Business Journal: South Butt vs. North Face" (http://www.bizjournals.com/stlouis/blog/2009/09/south_butt_vs_north_face.html) . Bizjournals.com . Retrieved 2010-02-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Frankel, Todd C. (2009-12-15). "The North Face is suing The South Butt International clothing company accuses teen's Ladue-based operation of trademark infringement" (http://www.stltoday.com/business/the-north-face-is-suing-the-south-butt-international-clothing/article_f01545a8-383c-5bc6-9d73-fb889ae2569c.html) . STLtoday.com . Retrieved 2012-10-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Hines, Alice (2012-10-25). "The Butt Face, The North Face Spoof, Agrees To Halt Clothing Sales" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/10/25/the-butt-face-spoof-north-face-shuts-down_n_2017220.html) . The Huffington Post . Retrieved 2014-02-10 . 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For a music album of the same name, see Think Pink (/wiki/Think_Pink) . THINK PINK Industry Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Founded 1979 Headquarters Castiglione delle Stiviere (/wiki/Castiglione_delle_Stiviere) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) Website www.thinkpink.it (http://www.thinkpink.it) Think Pink is an Italian sportswear brand (/wiki/Brand) offering clothes (/wiki/Clothes) and accessories, for men, women, and children founded in the late 1970s and come to success in the early eighties. Previously owned by the Tecnica Group (/wiki/Tecnica_Group) ., [1] (#cite_note-1) is now a trademark belonging to Man Socks Italia S.r.l. [2] (#cite_note-2) References [ edit ] Company portal (/wiki/Portal:Company) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy portal (/wiki/Portal:Italy) ^ (#cite_ref-1) Taroni, Micaela (16 April 2007). "Tecnica bündelt Kräfte in Altenmarkt" (http://www.wirtschaftsblatt.at/home/news/bundeslaender/237972/index.do) . Der Standard (/wiki/Der_Standard) . Retrieved 24 January 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Tecnica selles Think Pink to Man Socks" (http://www.pambianconews.com/man-socks-italia-si-aggiudica-think-pink/) . Pambianconews (/w/index.php?title=Pambianconews&action=edit&redlink=1) . 9 May 2011 . Retrieved 28 November 2013 . External links [ edit ] Think Pink official home page (http://www.thinkpink.it/) v t e Tecnica Group S.p.A. (/wiki/Tecnica_Group) Subsidiaries Blizzard (/wiki/Blizzard_Sport) Lowa Moon Boot (/wiki/Moon_Boot) Nordica (/wiki/Nordica_(company)) Rollerblade (/wiki/Rollerblade) Tecnica NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.codfw.main‐557d6f8488‐p4bcm Cached time: 20240712203403 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.262 seconds Real time usage: 0.334 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1078/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 12740/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 578/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 9/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 19191/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.184/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3920734/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 298.568 1 -total 28.45% 84.952 1 Template:Infobox_company 27.73% 82.797 1 Template:Reflist 24.92% 74.407 1 Template:Tecnica 24.19% 72.218 1 Template:Navbox 24.18% 72.195 2 Template:Cite_news 24.04% 71.782 1 Template:Infobox 9.53% 28.463 1 Template:Portal 8.83% 26.370 1 Template:For 1.94% 5.798 1 Template:Comma_separated_entries Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:18106354-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712203403 and revision id 1213254912. Rendering was triggered because: unknown esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Think_Pink_(clothing)&oldid=1213254912 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Think_Pink_(clothing)&oldid=1213254912) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Tecnica Group (/wiki/Category:Tecnica_Group) Clothing companies of Italy (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_of_Italy) Clothing companies established in 1979 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1979) Italian brands (/wiki/Category:Italian_brands) Italian companies established in 1979 (/wiki/Category:Italian_companies_established_in_1979) Textile industry of Italy (/wiki/Category:Textile_industry_of_Italy)
This is a list of notable lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) brands and their country of manufacture. It catalogues brands known primarily for their lingerie or underwear, not fashion or clothing in general. Brand Year of establishment Country of origin Country of manufacture Adore Me (/wiki/Adore_Me) 2011 US Vietnam/Sri Lanka Aerie (/wiki/Aerie_(American_Eagle_Outfitters)) 2006 US India Agent Provocateur (/wiki/Agent_Provocateur_(lingerie)) 1994 UK China Andrés Sardá (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9s_Sard%C3%A1) 1980 Spain Spain/China Ann Summers (/wiki/Ann_Summers) 1970 UK China Anna Sui Lingerie (/wiki/Anna_Sui_Lingerie) 2014 [1] (#cite_note-1) Korea China Baci Lingerie (/wiki/Baci_Lingerie) 2010 US China Bali (/wiki/Bali_(lingerie)) 1927 US Honduras/Dominican Republic Berlei (/wiki/Berlei) 2005 Australia Indonesia Bluebella (/wiki/Bluebella) 2005 UK Unknown Boutique La Vie en Rose (/wiki/Boutique_La_Vie_en_Rose) 1984 Canada India/China Boux Avenue (/wiki/Boux_Avenue) 2011 UK Turkey/China Bravissimo (/wiki/Bravissimo_(company)) 1995 UK Romania Bruno Banani (/wiki/Bruno_Banani) 1993 Germany Estonia Cake Maternity (/wiki/Cake_Maternity) 2008 Australia China Chantelle (/wiki/Chantelle_(lingerie)) 1876 France France Coco de Mer (/wiki/Sam_Roddick#Coco_de_Mer) 2001 UK Portugal Figleaves (/wiki/Figleaves) 1998 UK Unknown Formfit (/wiki/Formfit) 1917 ceased 1997 US Unknown Frederick's of Hollywood (/wiki/Frederick%27s_of_Hollywood) 1947 US US/China Gilly Hicks (/wiki/Gilly_Hicks) 2008 US Unknown Hanro (/wiki/Hanro) 1884 Switzerland Austria/Hungary/Portugal Hunkemöller (/wiki/Hunkem%C3%B6ller) 1886 Netherlands China Intimissimi (/wiki/Intimissimi) 1996 Italy Sri Lanka Iris Lingerie (/wiki/Sylvia_Pedlar) 1929 ceased 1970 US US Jockey (/wiki/Jockey_International) 1876 US US Jolidon (/wiki/Jolidon) 1993 Romania Romania Kestos (/wiki/Kestos) 1925 ceased 1985 UK UK Kiss Me Deadly (/wiki/Kiss_Me_Deadly_(company)) 2006 UK Unknown La Perla (/wiki/La_Perla_(clothing)) 1954 Italy Italy/China La Senza (/wiki/La_Senza) 1990 ceased 2017 Canada Unknown Lembrassa (/wiki/Lembrassa) 2008 ceased 2017 UK China Leonisa (/wiki/Leonisa) 1956 Colombia Colombia Lily of France (/wiki/Lily_of_France) 1915 US Unknown Lisca (/wiki/Lisca_(company)) 1955 Slovenia Slovenia Lise Charmel (/wiki/Lise_Charmel) 1950s France France Maidenform (/wiki/Maidenform) 1922 US US Marlies Dekkers (/wiki/Marlies_Dekkers) 1993 NL Unknown Nichole de Carle (/wiki/Nichole_de_Carle) 2009 UK UK Olga (/wiki/Olga_Erteszek) 1941 [2] (#cite_note-2) US Paraguay Peach John (/wiki/Peach_John) 1994 Japan China Playtex (/wiki/Playtex) 1947 US Unknown Pretty Polly (/wiki/Pretty_Polly_(hosiery)) 1919 UK Unknown Rigby & Peller (/wiki/Rigby_%26_Peller) 1939 UK Thailand Schiesser (/wiki/Schiesser) 1875 Germany Unknown Silhouette (/wiki/Silhouette_(lingerie)) 1887 UK Unknown Spanx (/wiki/Spanx) 2000 US Thailand ThirdLove (/wiki/ThirdLove) 2013 US China Trashy Lingerie (/wiki/Trashy_Lingerie) 1973 US US Triumph International (/wiki/Triumph_International) 1886 Germany Brazil/China/Thailand True & Co. (/wiki/True_%26_Co.) 2012 US China Ultimo (/wiki/Ultimo_(brand)) 1999 ceased 2015 UK India Van de Velde N.V. (/wiki/Van_de_Velde_N.V.) 1919 Belgium China Vanity Fair (/wiki/VF_Corporation) 1919 US US, Honduras Vassarette (/wiki/Vassarette) 1958 US Vietnam Vedette Shapewear (/wiki/Vedette_Shapewear) 1983 US Unknown Victoria's Secret (/wiki/Victoria%27s_Secret) 1977 US China Wacoal (/wiki/Wacoal) 1946 Japan China What Katie Did (/wiki/What_Katie_Did_(company)) 1999 UK India Wolford (/wiki/Wolford) 1949 Austria Croatia Wonderbra (/wiki/Wonderbra) 1939 Canada Indonesia, China Yandy (/wiki/Yandy.com) 2007 US US, China See also [ edit ] Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) List of fashion designers (/wiki/List_of_fashion_designers) List of sock manufacturers (/wiki/List_of_sock_manufacturers) List of swimwear brands (/wiki/List_of_swimwear_brands) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Kim, Bo-eun (July 23, 2014). "Anna Sui lingerie line launches in Korea" (https://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2015/11/631_161467.html) . Korea Times . Retrieved December 1, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Abcarian, Robin (1985-12-04). "Behind Olga" (http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1985-12-04/entertainment/8503240360_1_california-industrialist-olga-and-jan-erteszek-window) . Los Angeles Daily News (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Daily_News) . Chicago Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Tribune) . 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Finnigans Industry Luxury goods Founded 1830 Founder Brian Finnigan Defunct 1988 Headquarters New Bond Street (/wiki/New_Bond_Street) Products luggage, trunks, and accessories Owner Luvanis (/wiki/Luvanis) Website finnigans (http://finnigans.com) .com (http://finnigans.com) The House of Finnigans was a British luxury luggage and trunk maker established in 1830, originally in Manchester (/wiki/Manchester) and later in New Bond Street (/wiki/New_Bond_Street) in London. The House of Finnigans manufactured and produced a wide range of luxury products, including trunks, bags, fashion, jewellery, timepieces, and silverware. History [ edit ] Early life of Brian Finnigan [ edit ] The House of Finnigans was founded by Brian Finnigan, an Irishman descended from Brian Boru (/wiki/Brian_Boru) , the king of Ireland in the high Middle Ages (/wiki/History_of_Ireland_(800%E2%80%931169)) . He was the son of a seafarer, who spent summer months sailing off the coast of Newfoundland (/wiki/Newfoundland_and_Labrador) , where he hunted whale and seal in Arctic waters. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) In 1805, Brian Finnigan apprenticed to his father's friend and former sailing partner, Reuben Farrel. Farrel made leather goods in Liverpool (/wiki/Liverpool) , especially bags and trunks. This durable and weatherproof luggage was particularly adapted to the long and tedious journeys of that time. Both Reuben Farrel and Brian Finnigan moved to Manchester (/wiki/Manchester) as it developed into a prosperous city with the boom of the cotton industry. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) Mancunian origins [ edit ] In 1830, Brian Finnigan established a house on his own, the House of Finnigans. He opened a workshop in Newton Street Mill, [2] (#cite_note-2) and a Finnigans shop in Market Street (/wiki/Market_Street,_Manchester) . Finnigans soon became famous for its high-quality leather goods and saddlery. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) Particularly timely, the opening of the shop coincided with the beginning of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway (/wiki/Liverpool_and_Manchester_Railway) and Robert Stephenson's Rocket (/wiki/Stephenson%27s_Rocket) , the world's first steam passenger railway, which increased demand for travel goods. Finnigans devised a special range of items for railway travel like the "Lady Train Case," with a jewelry tray and enough room for a woman's travelling wardrobe. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) From then on, the house adapted its travel goods to new means of transportation from the railway to the automobile, and later air travel. As picnicking became a fashionable outdoor activity, Finnigans elaborated the "Wicker Picnic Basket," which was popular not only among English travelers, but also Indian Rajahs who strapped them on the backs of elephants. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) Expansion and advertising [ edit ] In 1851, Finnigans gained international recognition when the house won a gold medal for craftsmanship at Prince Albert (/wiki/Prince_Albert_Victor,_Duke_of_Clarence_and_Avondale) ’s Great Exhibition (/wiki/The_Great_Exhibition) at the Crystal Palace, thereby spreading Finnigans’ reputation even wider. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) By 1855, Finnigans had branched out, and now advertised as a trunk and portmanteau manufacturer. [3] (#cite_note-3) Its range of items constantly increased to include new items that were adapted to the new means of transportation. [4] (#cite_note-4) One such item was the "Treble Folding Portmanteau" so constructed that the compartments were accessible at once and entirely distinct from each other, "rendering it unnecessary for luggage being disturbed or moved in passing through the customs." [5] (#cite_note-5) The house's growth led to the opening of new premises at Piccadilly and Oxford Street (/wiki/Wilmslow_Road) , in addition to its original location at Market Street (/wiki/Market_Street,_Manchester) , Manchester. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) William Finnigan, who embodied the second generation of the family business, built on his father's business and was behind the company's diversification and commercial success. He took over when Brian Finnigan passed away in 1868. Expansion [ edit ] In 1879, William Finnigan opened a Finnigans shop at 18 New Bond Street (/wiki/Bond_Street) in London. Soon, American millionaires such as the Rockefellers (/wiki/Rockefeller_family) , the Vanderbilts (/wiki/Vanderbilt_family) and the Fords (/wiki/Ford_family_tree) joined the house's customer base. Opposite Finnigans on Bond Street was Asprey (/wiki/Asprey) : the two houses enjoyed a friendly rivalry that led to fruitful commercial developments. Still specializing in leather and saddlery, Finnigans also sold clocks, watches, and silverware. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) Their London other addresses were Clifford Street (/wiki/Clifford_Street) , Coach & Horses Yard, Old Burlington Street (/wiki/Old_Burlington_Street) while their London works were at 6–10 Lexington Street, W1. Finnigans also had stores in Liverpool (/wiki/Liverpool) at 32 Bold Street and 37–41 Dale Street (/wiki/Dale_Street) . By the end of the century, the company outgrew its Manchester premises and moved to a more spacious building in Deansgate (/wiki/Deansgate) . With the department store Kendals (/wiki/Kendals) at one end and Finnigans at the other, Deansgate became Manchester's main shopping street. The Deansgate store was later enlarged to encompass Finnigan's galleries, including a sports department, fashion and menswear, as well as beauty products. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) Entering modernity [ edit ] As the use of both personal and professional staff declined, the need for more lightweight luggage arose. Additionally, the use of motor car travel and the individual liberalization of travel were partly responsible for a new generation of luggage. Portability became Finnigans’ priority. In 1909, Finnigans advertised cases that were strong and resistant yet "so light you can easily carry one yourself and thus retain your jewellery and valuables under your own control." In 1912, Finnigans also commercialized a "Lady’s Motor Hand Bag," both lightweight and fitted. [6] (#cite_note-6) Finnigans adapted to modern forms of travel and developed special lines of luggage for overseas travel, especially on ocean liners such as the Titanic (/wiki/RMS_Titanic) , Normandie (/wiki/SS_Normandie) , Queen Mary (/wiki/Queen_Mary_(ship)) , and Canberra. [7] (#cite_note-7) While practical, Finnigans’ travel items were also of great workmanship. The house's lightweight dressing cases in colourful, polished Morocco were particularly successful. Among items of the highest luxury was a dressing case to be offered as a present for marriage or a birthday in crocodile skin, with solid gold mountings and tortoiseshell handles. Crocodile briefcases by Finnigans have become highly valued collectibles. [8] (#cite_note-8) In the 1930s, Finnigans launched a sports clothing line to fit the new lifestyle of the elite, and especially the vogue of sunbathing and swimming in seaside resorts. A two-piece bathing suit in bright yellow is preserved at the Victoria & Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) in London. [9] (#cite_note-9) Air travel brought weight restrictions and begat a reduction in the weight, size, and structure of luggage to which Finnigans contributed. New materials like vulcanized fiber replaced the heavier structured cases of leather and wood. WW2 and closure [ edit ] In 1938, the fourth generation of the family took over and Brian Finnigan, named after his ancestor, became the managing director. During the Second World War (/wiki/Second_World_War) , the house of Finnigans contributed to the war effort as its factory produced much needed webbing equipment. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) Brian Finnigan expanded the reach of the family business and built up an export market to New York City, Canada, and the Caribbean (/wiki/Caribbean) . After the war, Peter Finnigan joined his cousin Brian in the company and travelled to Macy's in New York to learn from modern American department stores and strengthen Finnigans’ export activities. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) The two men studied with interest the moving of city stores to suburban locations and the advent of the shopping mall. [10] (#cite_note-10) When the lease of the Deansgate store in Manchester expired in the 1950s, they pioneered this new retailing trend and moved Finnigans to Wilmslow (/wiki/Wilmslow) , twelve miles from Manchester's city centre. Many other shops followed, making Wilmslow a thriving shopping center. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) While in Wilmslow, Finnigans retained its luxury positioning, and notably sold tailor-made suits in high quality tweed. The house also produced high fashion handbags in crocodile lined with suede that were of "lasting luxury.” In 1968, Finnigans closed its New Bond Street store in London. The company remained a family-run business until it shut down its last store in 1988. [1] (#cite_note-Peter_2009-1) Today [ edit ] The house of Finnigans has since changed hands and is now owned by the Luvanis (/wiki/Luvanis) company, which specializes in reviving long-dormant brands, such as Moynat (/wiki/Moynat) and Belber (/wiki/Belber) . See also [ edit ] Asprey (/wiki/Asprey) Further reading [ edit ] Finamore, Daniel, and Ghislaine Wood. Ocean Liners: Glamour, Speed, and Style, London: Victoria & Albert Museum 2017, 272 p. ( ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781851779062 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9781851779062) ). Finnigan, Peter. Knock on Any Door: The Door Opens, Edinburgh, Melrose Books, 2009[1999], 88 p. ( ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1906561567 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1906561567) ). Moulton, Mo (/wiki/Mo_Moulton) . Ireland and the Irish in Interwar England , Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 2014, 385 p. /p. 178-179 ( ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781107052680 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9781107052680) ). Notes and references [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m Peter, Finnigan (2009). Knock on any door . Ely: Melrose Books. pp. xiii–xv. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781906561567 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 463631126 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/463631126) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "The Wentwood Apartments" (http://manchesterhistory.net/manchester/tours/tour11/area11page34.html) . Manchester History . Retrieved 15 December 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Slater's Directory of Manchester & Salford . 1855. ^ (#cite_ref-4) First Aid to the Traveler in Europe . New York: The Stuyvesant Co. 1922. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Finnigans' commercial". 1874. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Finnigans's commercial". The Illustrated London . 6 July 1912. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Ocean liners : glamour, speed and style . Finamore, Daniel, 1961–, Wood, Ghislaine, Peabody Essex Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum. London. 23 May 2017. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781851779062 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 988006181 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/988006181) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) CS1 maint: others ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others) ) ^ (#cite_ref-8) Burroughs, Katrina (13 June 2012). "Vintage luggage" (https://howtospendit.ft.com/womens-style/7495-vintage-luggage) . How to spend it . Retrieved 15 December 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Bathing suit \| Finnigans Ltd. \| V&A Search the Collections" (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O234910/bathing-suit-finnigans-ltd/) . collections.vam.ac.uk . Retrieved 15 December 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Cohen, Lizabeth (2004). A Consumer's Republic: The Politics of Mass Consumption in Postwar America . New York: Vintage Books. External links [ edit ] Finnigans bags in the V&A collection (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/finnigans/A5808/) Slater Directory of Manchester , Leicester University special collections (http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/cdm/landingpage/collection/p16445coll4) WikiMiniAtlas 51°30′39″N 0°08′34″W / 51.5107°N 0.1427°W / 51.5107; -0.1427 NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐65687cfdb7‐zs994 Cached time: 20240623105356 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.492 seconds Real time usage: 0.587 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2236/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 23431/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1167/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 47304/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.302/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5956418/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 544.929 1 -total 34.09% 185.758 1 Template:Reflist 32.83% 178.904 1 Template:Infobox_company 27.01% 147.168 1 Template:Infobox 21.32% 116.205 5 Template:Cite_book 16.72% 91.139 3 Template:ISBN 13.68% 74.524 3 Template:Catalog_lookup_link 8.20% 44.705 1 Template:Use_dmy_dates 5.31% 28.962 1 Template:Coords 4.30% 23.453 3 Template:Cite_news Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:56056721-0!canonical and timestamp 20240623105356 and revision id 1158629506. 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Indian clothing retailer Kalyan Sarees Company type Private (/wiki/Privately_held_company) Industry Textiles (/wiki/Textiles) Founded 1992 ; 32 years ago ( 1992 ) Founder T. S. Ramachandran Headquarters Thrissur (/wiki/Thrissur) , Kerala (/wiki/Kerala) Area served Kannur (/wiki/Kannur_district) Kozhikode (/wiki/Kozhikode_district) Thiruvananthapuram (/wiki/Thiruvananthapuram_district) Thrissur (/wiki/Thrissur_district) Products Textiles (/wiki/Textiles) Number of employees 1,000 Website http://kalyansarees.co.in/ (http://kalyansarees.co.in/) Kalyan Sarees is a women's clothing showroom based in Kerala (/wiki/Kerala) known for their traditional handwoven bridal Sarees (/wiki/Sari) and Lehengas (/wiki/Lehenga) . [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] Kalyan Sarees was founded in 1992 by T. S. Ramachandran, [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) the grandson of T. S. Kalyanarama Iyer who founded Kalyan (/wiki/Kalyan_Group) in 1909. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) First showroom opened in Thrissur (/wiki/Thrissur) , followed by showrooms in Coimbatore, Kannur (/wiki/Kannur) , Thiruvananthapuram (/wiki/Thiruvananthapuram) and Kozhikode (/wiki/Kozhikode) . [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) Kalyan Sarees have partnered with actor Jayaram (/wiki/Jayaram) to be their brand ambassador. [11] (#cite_note-11) Activities [ edit ] 20 May 2006 Actress Mallika Kapoor (/wiki/Mallika_Kapoor) inaugurated the renovated showroom of New Kalyan Sarees & Kalyan Jewellers (/wiki/Kalyan_Jewellers) . [12] (#cite_note-12) 28 November 2008 Actor Jayaram (/wiki/Jayaram) inaugurated showroom of Kalyan Sarees at Arayidathupalam in Kozhikode. [13] (#cite_note-13) 5 August 2011 Actor Jayaram inaugurated the new showroom in Kannur. [14] (#cite_note-14) 9 April 2012 Creative Agency Performance League ranked Kalyan Sarees 4th for March. [15] (#cite_note-15) 7 November 2012 Miss Kerala Deepthi Sathi (/wiki/Deepti_Sati) inaugurated the Queen's Collection, a bridal show festival in Thrissur (/wiki/Thrissur) by Kalyan Sarees. [16] (#cite_note-16) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Kalyan Sarees campaign conjures up a Queen" (http://bestmediainfo.com/2013/01/kalyan-sarees-campaign-conjures-up-a-queen/) . Best Media Info Bureau . Retrieved 9 January 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "An innovative creation is making waves at Kalyan Sarees" (http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/multiple-choice/article2239040.ece) . The Hindu . Retrieved 13 January 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "About Us, kalyan Sarees" (http://kalyansarees.co.in/about-us/) . Kalyan Sarees. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Kalyan Jewellers: From a textile store to a jewellery chain" (http://www.forbesindia.com/article/hidden-gems/kalyan-jewellers-from-a-textile-store-to-a-jewellery-chain/41039/1) . Forbes India . Retrieved 8 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Forbes India Released 100 Richest Indian List" (http://www.jagranjosh.com/current-affairs/forbes-india-released-the-100-richest-indian-list-2014-1411727003-1) . Jagran Josh . Retrieved 26 September 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Kalyan Sarees opens showroom in Kannur" (http://www.thehindu.com/business/kalyan-sarees-opens-showroom-in-kannur/article2325087.ece) . The Hindu . Retrieved 5 August 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Kalyan Sarees showroom in Kozhikode" (http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-national/tp-kerala/Kalyan-Sarees-showroom-in-Kozhikode/article15350108.ece) . The Hindu . Retrieved 28 November 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Kalyan Saree to open Kannur outlet" (http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/todays-paper/tp-others/tp-states/kalyan-saree-to-open-kannur-outlet/article2314534.ece) . The Hindu, Business Line . Retrieved 2 August 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Kalyan Saree's Onam marketing hits the right note" (http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/companies/kalyan-sarees-onam-marketing-hits-the-right-note/article4306999.ece) . The Hindu, Business Line . Retrieved 14 January 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "About Kalyan Sarees" (https://pinkerala.com/news/about-kalyan-sarees#/.WQg3RVOGOiw) . Pinkerala . Retrieved 8 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Kalyan Sarees Brand Ambassador Jayram inaugurated showroom in Kannur" (http://www.thehindu.com/business/kalyan-sarees-opens-showroom-in-kannur/article2325087.ece) . The Hindu . Retrieved 5 August 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Actress Mallika Kapoor inaugurated the renovated showroom of New Kalyan Sarees & Jewellers" (http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/new-beginnings/article3192942.ece) . The Hindu, New Beginnings . Retrieved 20 May 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Actor Jayaram will inaugurate a four-storey showroom of Kalyan Sarees at Arayidathupalam in Kozhikode" (http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-national/tp-kerala/Kalyan-Sarees-showroom-in-Kozhikode/article15350108.ece) . The Hindu . Retrieved 28 November 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Kalyan Sarees opens showroom in Kannur" (http://www.thehindu.com/business/kalyan-sarees-opens-showroom-in-kannur/article2325087.ece) . The Hindu . Retrieved 5 August 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "New Business League: See Who tops the List for March" (http://www.campaignindia.in/article/new-business-league-see-who-tops-the-list-for-march/416183) . Campaign India . Retrieved 9 April 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Bridal show" (http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-national/tp-kerala/bridal-show/article4073095.ece) . The Hindu . Retrieved 7 November 2012 . 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Brand name of a metal nail used on mountain climbing shoes Mountain boot with Tricouni nails Tricouni nails This article is about the mountaineering equipment. For British fashion house, see Tricouni (brand) (/wiki/Tricouni_(brand)) . Tricouni is the brand name of a metal nail used on mountain climbing shoes (/wiki/Mountaineering_boot) . Widely used in the past by mountain climbers (/wiki/Mountaineering) and soldiers, it offers improved gripping on various surfaces. The Tricouni nail was invented in 1912 by a jeweler from Geneva (/wiki/Geneva) , Félix-Valentin Genecand, alias "Tricouni" (1878-1957). [1] (#cite_note-1) Genecand was also a well known alpinist (/wiki/Alps) (several mountains were named after him: Mount Genecand (/wiki/Mount_Genecand) in Antarctica (/wiki/Antarctica) , Tricouni Peak (/wiki/Tricouni_Peak) in Canada (/wiki/Canada) ). Tricouni nails are also referred to as hobnails, boot nails, cleats and shoe studs. [2] (#cite_note-2) See also [ edit ] Crampons (/wiki/Crampons) Cleats (/wiki/Cleat_(shoe)) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Tricouni n'est plus" (https://www.letempsarchives.ch/page/JDG_1957_01_22/6/article/7620296/) . Journal de Genève (/wiki/Journal_de_Gen%C3%A8ve) (in Swiss French). No. 18. 1957-01-22. p. 6 . Retrieved 2024-07-14 – via Le Temps Archives (/wiki/Le_Temps_Archives) . [ (search "Tricouni n'est plus" (without quotation marks) on the Journal de Genève , and access to the death notices of 21.01.1957), and also his necrology in the SAC-Jahrbuch : "Félix Genecand, genannt "Tricouni" (1878-1957), Louis Seylaz, p. 158 of the french version, or p. 159 of the german version". In the "brief biography" of the external links the indicated year of birth (1879) is incorrect: the SAC-Jahrbuch gives 1878, and the notice in the Journal de Genève recalls that he recently celebrated his 78th birthday. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Cooper, Hermione (December 10, 2008). "Boot nails and shoe studs" (http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=32421) . Retrieved May 18, 2012 . External links [ edit ] (in French) Tricouni's brief biography (http://www.la-salevienne.org/presseX.php?X=ah2014) . In Le Messager: Genevois, 16 January 2014, p. 24. NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.codfw.main‐d4d7fbdcf‐n4kg4 Cached time: 20240716101511 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.218 seconds Real time usage: 0.268 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 326/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 4926/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 666/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 8893/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.167/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 15402245/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 254.621 1 -total 38.96% 99.213 1 Template:In_lang 35.83% 91.234 1 Template:Reflist 29.03% 73.927 1 Template:Cite_news 19.03% 48.443 1 Template:Short_description 12.46% 31.733 2 Template:Pagetype 5.66% 14.417 1 Template:About 2.45% 6.228 3 Template:Main_other 2.00% 5.104 1 Template:Cite_web 1.79% 4.556 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:35865171-0!canonical and timestamp 20240716101511 and revision id 1234829092. Rendering was triggered because: unknown esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tricouni&oldid=1234829092 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tricouni&oldid=1234829092) " Category (/wiki/Help:Category) : Mountaineering equipment (/wiki/Category:Mountaineering_equipment) Hidden categories: CS1 Swiss French-language sources (fr-ch) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Swiss_French-language_sources_(fr-ch)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Articles with French-language sources (fr) (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_French-language_sources_(fr))
Nigerian-Italian illustrator and textile designer Diana Ejaita is a Nigerian-Italian illustrator (/wiki/Illustrator) and textile designer (/wiki/Textile_design) . Biography [ edit ] Ejaita was born in Italy. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) She studied fine art (/wiki/Fine_art) in France and Germany. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) As of 2020, she was based in Berlin (/wiki/Berlin) , Germany, and Lagos (/wiki/Lagos) , Nigeria. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) In 2014, Ejaita started a fashion label, called WearYourMask, inspired by West African (/wiki/West_Africa) traditions and her Italo-Nigerian heritage. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) In 2019, Ejaita's work was featured in a group exhibition at Berlin's Kunstgewerbemuseum (/wiki/Kunstgewerbemuseum_Berlin) (Museum of Decorative Arts), called Afro Futures. Fashion – Hair – Design . [3] (#cite_note-3) That same year, she illustrated a Google Doodle (/wiki/Google_Doodle) commemorating the 119th birthday of Funmilayo Ransome-Kuti (/wiki/Funmilayo_Ransome-Kuti) , a Nigerian educator and women's rights activist. [4] (#cite_note-4) Ejaita has designed four covers for The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) magazine. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [5] (#cite_note-5) Notes and references [ edit ] ^ a b c d Mouly, Françoise (2020-01-13). "Diana Ejaita's "Portrait of History" (https://www.newyorker.com/culture/cover-story/cover-story-2020-01-20) " (https://www.newyorker.com/culture/cover-story/cover-story-2020-01-20) . The New Yorker . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200113163627/https://www.newyorker.com/culture/cover-story/cover-story-2020-01-20) from the original on 2020-01-13 . Retrieved 2020-02-18 . ^ a b Sauer, Jennifer (2020-02-05). "Artist Diana Ejaita's Inspired View" (https://web.archive.org/web/20221109102124/https://crfashionbook.com/culture/a30766772/artist-diana-ejaita-wearyourmask-designer-interview/) . CR Fashion Book . Archived from the original (https://www.crfashionbook.com/culture/a30766772/artist-diana-ejaita-wearyourmask-designer-interview/) on 2022-11-09 . Retrieved 2020-02-18 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Grenier, Elizabeth (2019-08-24). "Innovative designers challenge African fashion stereotypes \| DW \| 24.08.2019" (https://www.dw.com/en/innovative-designers-challenge-african-fashion-stereotypes/a-50142773) . DW . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190824114513/https://www.dw.com/en/innovative-designers-challenge-african-fashion-stereotypes/a-50142773) from the original on 2019-08-24 . Retrieved 2020-02-18 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Google celebrates Funmilayo Ransome-Kuti's 119th birthday with a doodle" (https://guardian.ng/news/google-celebrates-funmilayo-ransome-kutis-119th-birthday-with-a-doodle/) . The Guardian Nigeria News - Nigeria and World News . 2019-10-25 . Retrieved 2020-01-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Mouly, Françoise (2019-05-06). "Diana Ejaita's "Iya Ni Wura (Mother Is Gold)" (https://www.newyorker.com/culture/cover-story/cover-story-2019-05-13) " (https://www.newyorker.com/culture/cover-story/cover-story-2019-05-13) . The New Yorker . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190506102539/https://www.newyorker.com/culture/cover-story/cover-story-2019-05-13) from the original on 2019-05-06 . Retrieved 2020-02-18 . Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/302165326421816290006) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/1257904736) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n2021019065) This biographical article related to fashion is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Traditional clothing worn by the Yup'ik people of Alaska Kusquqvagmiut (Kuskokwim Yup'ik) man and woman wearing hoodless fancy fur parkas ( atkupiak ), circa 1879 [1] (#cite_note-1) Nunivaarmiut (Nunivak Cup'ig) mother and child ( Joe Moses ) wearing hooded simple fur parkas ( atkuuk ), photograph by Edward Curtis, 1930 Yup'ik clothing ( Yup'ik (/wiki/Yup%27ik_language) aturaq sg aturak dual aturat pl , aklu , akluq , un’u ; also, piluguk in Unaliq-Pastuliq dialect, aklu , cangssagar , un’u in Nunivak dialect, Cup'ik clothing for the Chevak Cup'ik (/wiki/Chevak_Cup%E2%80%99ik_language) -speaking people of Chevak (/wiki/Chevak,_Alaska) and Cup'ig clothing for the Nunivak Cup'ig (/wiki/Nunivak_Cup%27ig_language) -speaking people of Nunivak Island (/wiki/Nunivak_Island) ) refers to the traditional Eskimo (/wiki/Eskimo) -style clothing (/wiki/Clothing) worn by the Yupik (/wiki/Yup%27ik_people) people of southwestern Alaska (/wiki/Alaska) . The traditional clothing systems developed and used by the Yup’ik, Inuit (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) and Nuniwarmiut peoples performs similarly to the most effective cold weather clothing developed to date. [2] (#cite_note-2) Yup'ik women made clothes and footwear (/wiki/Footwear) from animal skins (/wiki/Skin) (especially hide (/wiki/Hide_(skin)) and fur (/wiki/Fur) of marine (/wiki/Pinniped) and land mammals for fur clothing (/wiki/Fur_clothing) , sometimes birds (/wiki/Skin#In_birds_and_reptiles) , also fish (/wiki/Skin#Fish_and_amphibians) ), sewn together using needles (/wiki/Sewing_needle) made from animal bones (/wiki/Bone) , walrus ivory (/wiki/Walrus_ivory) , and bird bones such as the front part of a crane (/wiki/Sandhill_crane) 's foot and threads (/wiki/Thread_(yarn)) made from other animal products, such as sinew (/wiki/Tendon) . The multi-functional ulu (/wiki/Ulu) (semilunar woman's knife) is used to process and cut skins for clothing and footwear. Women made most clothing of caribou (/wiki/Caribou) (wild caribou (/wiki/Porcupine_caribou) Rangifer tarandus granti and domestic reindeer (/wiki/Reindeer) Rangifer tarandus tarandus ) and sealskin (/wiki/Sealskin) . Yup’ik clothing tended to fit relatively loosely. Wastefulness being disrespectful, Yup'ik elders made use of every last scrap from hunts and harvests: seal guts, skins of salmon fish, dried grasses such as Leymus mollis (/wiki/Leymus_mollis) (coarse seashore grass). Traditionally, skins of birds, fish, and marine mammals such as seal and walrus (/wiki/Walrus) , and land mammals were used to make clothing. Hunting clothes were designed to be insulated and waterproof (/wiki/Waterproof) . Fish skin and marine mammal intestines (/wiki/Intestines) (guts) were used for waterproof shells (as gut parka) and boots. Dried grass (/wiki/Grass) was used to make insulating socks (/wiki/Sock) , and as a waterproof thread. In the Yup'ik culture, parkas are much more than necessary tools for survival in the cold climate of Alaska; they are also pieces of art that tell stories about the past. Many story knife ( yaaruin ) stories of the storytelling (/wiki/Storytelling) dictated the story of the traditional Yup'ik clothing, such as atkupiaq or fancy parka. The Russian fur traders or promyshlennikis (/wiki/Promyshlenniki) of the Russian-American Company (/wiki/Russian-American_Company) during the Russian America (/wiki/Russian_America) encouraged the Eskimos to adopt Western-style dress in order to release more furs for trading (/wiki/North_American_fur_trade) . The English word kuspuk (/wiki/Kuspuk) adapted from the Yup'ik word qaspeq (a lightweight parka cover or overshirt worn by both Yup'ik and Iñupiaq women and men). Also, the word mukluk (/wiki/Mukluk) (Yu’pik/Inuit boot, a soft knee-high boot of seal or caribou skin) which is derived from the Yup'ik word maklak meaning bearded seal (/wiki/Bearded_seal) ( Erignathus barbatus ). That the word maklak has been borrowed into English as mukluk as the name for Inuit/Yu’pik skin boots ( kamguk , kameksak , piluguk , etc., in Yup’ik), probably because bearded-seal skin is used for the soles of skin boots. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) The village of Kotlik (/wiki/Kotlik,_Alaska) derives its Yup’ik name Qerrulliik (dual form of qerrullik "a pair of pants, trousers"), from its location, where the Yukon River (/wiki/Yukon_River) splits apart nearby like the legs on a pair of trousers. Kass’artarnek aturanek sap’akinek-llu atulang’ermeng cali Yupiit nutem atutukaitnek aturaqluteng, . . . "Even though they do wear Euro-American clothing and footwear, they still use original Yup’ik clothing, . . ." — Qipnermiut Tegganrita Egmirtellrit (The Legacy of the Kipnuk (/wiki/Kipnuk,_Alaska) Elders) 1998 [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Eskimo clothing [ edit ] Both Yup'ik (and Siberian Yupik (/wiki/Siberian_Yupik) ) and Iñupiat clothing (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) are also known as Eskimo clothing in Alaska. Eskimos are not usually tall but they have powerful legs and shoulders. Clothing details differs between northwestern Iñupiaq and southwestern Yup'ik Eskimo clothes. Also, among the Yup'ik regional or socioterritorial groups (their native names will generally be found ending in -miut postbase (/wiki/Postbase) which signifies "inhabitants of ..."), like those of north Alaska, were differentiated by territory, speech patterns, clothing details, annual cycles, and ceremonial life. [4] (#cite_note-Elisabethandrews-4) Four basic designs are used for women's fancy parkas among the Yup'ik, with some regional variations, including one style adopted from Iñupiaq skin sewers. [5] (#cite_note-Susanfair-5) Native peoples have flourished in the extreme cold of the Arctic for millennia. Arctic people living throughout the circumpolar region have time-tested their caribou (or reindeer) skin clothing ensembles for 3000 to 8000 years. During that time, their clothing has evolved, so that today they are able to live comfortably within the region, in spite of the bitter weather. [6] (#cite_note-Alinejcotel-6) Bodywear [ edit ] Parka [ edit ] A Hooper Bay (/wiki/Hooper_Bay,_Alaska) woman with hoodless parka in a 1928 photograph by Edward S Curtis (/wiki/Edward_S_Curtis) Nunivak Cup'ig boy, photograph by Edward Curtis, 1928 Nunivak Cup'ig child with snowshoe rabbit (/wiki/Snowshoe_rabbit) or tundra hare (/wiki/Tundra_hare) fur, or possibly a feathered bird skin parka, and wood knot (/wiki/Wood_knot) -like beaded circular cap ( uivqurraq ), photograph by Edward Curtis, 1930 Parka (/wiki/Parka) ( atkuk sg atkuuk dual atkuut pl in Yukon-Kuskokwim, Bristol Bay and Hooper Bay-Chevak dialects, atekuk in Unaliq-Pastuliq dialect, atkug in Nunivak dialect) is the most common Yup'ik clothing. Parkas were made from a wide variety of materials including reindeer, squirrel, muskrat, bird, and fish skins, as well as intestines. Yup'ik men from the Yukon Kuskokwim area wore knee-length (or longer) hooded parkas with straight hemlines. Women wore slightly shorter parkas with U-shaped front and back flaps. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) The researchers had previously shown that there were differences in parka design between Akulmiut (in the present-day tundra villagers of Nunapitchuk (/wiki/Nunapitchuk,_Alaska) , Kasigluk (/wiki/Kasigluk,_Alaska) , and Atmautluak (/wiki/Atmautluak,_Alaska) ), the coast (Caninermiut), lower Kuskokwim (Kusquqvagmiut) and lower Yukon (Pastulirmiut, Kuigpagmiut) river areas, and natives could identify villages that shared a design. The Akulmiut woman's parka typically featured a design along the bodice (/wiki/Bodice) or culuksugun (also known as culuksuk ; hanging decoration on a parka; spine, backbone) or qemirrlugun (piece of calfskin in the middle of a traditional Yup’ik parka with three tassels hanging from it, often having a “drawn bow and arrow” or a fish-tail design stitched on it; smaller plate below the large front and back plates on parka) which represented the tail of an Alaska blackfish (/wiki/Alaska_blackfish) ( Dallia pectoralis ). Occasionally the blackfish tail design in the early part of the 20th century was seen on women's parkas of the Nelson Island (/wiki/Nelson_Island_(Alaska)) people (Qaluyaarmiut) and lower Kuskokwim but were never seen, as one elder woman reported, for example, on parkas of Hooper Bay (/wiki/Hooper_Bay,_Alaska) (Naparyaarmiut) or Chevak (/wiki/Chevak,_Alaska) (Qissunarmiut) women. Another Akulmiut design, less commonly used, was the "bow and arrow" design. The parkas of lower Kuskokwim women were also distinguished by the use of the "pretend drums" ( cauyaryuak ) design across the bust or the qaliq part of the parka. [4] (#cite_note-Elisabethandrews-4) Men's parkas were distinguished as well by the pattern but did not have the decoration detail of the women's parkas. [4] (#cite_note-Elisabethandrews-4) Women's parkas in the Yukon River area were longer than men's, with rounded hems and side splits that reached almost to the waist. Farther south along the Kuskokwim River, parkas of both sexes extended to the ankles and were usually hoodless, requiring that a separate fur cap or hood be worn. Kuskokwim styles of parka decoration were far more elaborate. [8] (#cite_note-Learningexperiences-8) A characteristic feature of Yup'ik parkas was elaboration of the ruff on the hood framing the face, on the cuffs, and, in recent times, the border around the bottom of the garment. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Sleeve (/wiki/Sleeve) ( aliq sg aliik dual aliit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, amraq in Egegik Yup'ik, alir in Cup'ig) is the part of a garment that covers the arm. Parka ruff ( negiliq, atkuum negilia, asguruaq in Yup'ik, legiliq, ayguruaq in Cup'ik, amraq in Egegik Yup'ik;, ulganaq in Cup'ig, but negili in Cup'ig, as means "edge of hood where ruff is attached; edge of kuspuk hood; halo around the sun") is parka's ruff, but not Western style ruff (/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)) collar. The kumegneq is parka ruff edging near the face. Yup'iks use wolverine skins for parka ruffs. A modern fancy parka ( atkupiaq ) with trim at hem ( akurun ). Fur market in Fairbanks, between 1980 and 1983 Fancy parka ( atkupiaq sg atkupiak dual atkupiat pl , literally "real parka, genuine parka") is a fur parka made of ground squirrel, muskrat or mink pelts with traditional fancy decorations (such as one style that has a band across the chest area and eight tassels hanging front and back). The tassels, it is said, represent fingers. Among the Yup'ik, traditional style women's parkas are still made and worn on festive occasions. Men's fancy parkas are no longer made, although a few elders still recall their forms and decoration. [5] (#cite_note-Susanfair-5) The atkupiaq is the most popular type of woman's parka among the Yup'ik living along the Kuskokwim River (/wiki/Kuskokwim_River) and in the Kuskokwim Bay (/wiki/Kuskokwim_Bay) area. This parka is very long by comparison with Canadian Inuit parkas, with an even lower edge. The border is decorated with a geometric design of black and white pieces of calfskin. On older parkas, the border was lined with a band of calfskin with fine decorative stitching, symbolizing footprints on snow. The hood with its beautiful ruff is much smaller than on a Canadian Inuit woman's amauti (/wiki/Amauti) , and there is no pouch for carrying a baby. [10] (#cite_note-Britishmuseumatkupiaq-10) Some elements (certain stitches, tassels, specific strips of fur, beads and shapes of hide) on a parka represent specific parts of an historic story. [11] (#cite_note-11) Fancy parka a very important component of Yup'ik culture. An atkupiaq is a signifier that tells a story (/wiki/Storytelling) to Yup'ik wievers, much like the robes worn by Alaska Natives of the Northwest Coast (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Pacific_Northwest_Coast) (as Eyak (/wiki/Eyak) , Tlingit (/wiki/Tlingit_people) , Haida (/wiki/Haida_people) , Tsimshian (/wiki/Tsimshian) ). [5] (#cite_note-Susanfair-5) Traditional Yup'ik oral stories ( qulirat and qanemcit ) were embedded in many social functions of the society. Storyknifing ( yaaruilta literally "let's go story knife!") stories a traditional and still common activity of young girls and are told by children of all ages in Yup’ik-speaking Eskimo villages in Alaska. These stories are illustrated by figures sketched on mud or snow with a ceremonial knife, known as story knife or story telling knife ( yaaruin sg yaaruitek dual yaaruitet pl in Yup'ik, saaruin in Yukon dialect). [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Stories were told through the use of the yaaruin, the story knife by the women and young girls and most importantly stories were found within the traditionally Yup’ik clothing. The women had to pass this knowledge on to their daughters so that the clothes would reveal the correct story of the family and the men had to recognize these stories on the clothing. [12] (#cite_note-12) In the past, dressing in fine fancy clothing was reserved for ceremonial events like festivals in the qasgiq (/wiki/Qasgiq) , when animals and spirits ( yua (/wiki/Inua) ) were honored. [5] (#cite_note-Susanfair-5) The tradition of the fancy parka continues there today. [8] (#cite_note-Learningexperiences-8) Ilairutaq or Yukon-style parka ( ilairutaq in Yup'ik) is a type of traditional Yup’ik parka of a design said to be borrowed from the northern Malimiut Inupiaq people via the Yukon area. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Qulitaq or Kuskokwim-style parka ( qulitaq in Yup'ik) is a type of traditional Yup’ik parka with two pieces of calfskin on the back (called by the same name as the parka design), and two calfskin pieces on the chest (called cauyak ) worn in the coastal (Canineq?) areas. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Qaliq or tundra (Akula)-style parka ( qaliq in Yup'ik) is a type of traditional Yup’ik fancy parka worn by Qaluyaarmiut (Nelson Island Yup'iks) and Akulmiut (tundra-area Yup'iks) that has large front and back plates of white calfskin or of mink skin, also the plates of calfskin. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) [13] (#cite_note-Nunamiutarnek-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) But, the Chevak Cup'ik meaning is seal-gut rain parka used with a kayak. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Qaliluk ( qaliluk sg qaliluuk dual qaliluut pl in Yup'ik, qalilurrlugar in Cup'ig) is man's hoodless caribou-skin or reindeer-skin parka. [13] (#cite_note-Nunamiutarnek-13) Squirrel-skin parka ( uulungiiq in Yup'ik) is a parka decorated with a fringe of squirrel bellies ( uulungak ). [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) [15] (#cite_note-Qangananek-15) Other Nunivaarmiut Cup'ig parkas are kinguqaleg (woman's fur parka cut high on the sides so that there are front and back flaps), qatrin (white camouflaged parka), qutngug (sealskin parka), and ellangrat (parka made of strips of bleached sealskin and gut or fishskin) or langrat (vertical design or designs made from fish skin on a parka). [16] (#cite_note-Nuniwarmiutpiciryarata-16) Kuspuk (/wiki/Kuspuk) worn by Eskimo woman and girl ice fishing Parka cover or Kuspuk (/wiki/Kuspuk) ( qaspeq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qasper in Cup'ig) is a traditional Yup'ik garment, worn in both casual and formal settings in Alaska. It is worn by both men and women, but men usually wear a kuspuk only for ceremonial such as Eskimo dancing (/wiki/Yup%27ik_dancing) ( yuraq ) or formal occasions, while for women it is common casual clothing, even among non-Yup'iks. The kuspuk is, in essence, a long-sleeved overshirt with a hood. Trim, often rickrack, edges the hood, sleeves, and the single large pocket in the front. A typical kuspuk for women has a print (usually floral), whereas a man's is a solid color. Female versions also may include a skirt of varying length (making the garment more technically a dress rather than a top), or may have no skirt at all. Traditional Yup'ik style kuspuks vary widely among villages. Colloquially, the skirted (/wiki/Skirt) version is called Kuskokwim style kuspuk , while the skirtless type is called Yukon style kuspuk . The name of a school district (/wiki/School_district) (Kuspuk School District [17] (#cite_note-17) offices are located in Aniak (/wiki/Aniak,_Alaska) ) is derived from kuspuk. Yupik Eskimo gut parka kamleika (/wiki/Kamleika) ( kamliikaq ). Exhibit in the Arvid Adolf Etholén collection, Museum of Cultures ( Kulttuurien museo ) of National Museum of Finland (/wiki/National_Museum_of_Finland) , Helsinki, Finland. [18] (#cite_note-18) Gut parka or gutskin parka, gut rain parka, seal-gut raincoat ( imarnin sg imarnitek dual imarnitet pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, imarniteg dual in Cup'ig) is a hooded waterproof gut raincoat (/wiki/Raincoat) made from seal intestines (gut) of a single bearded seal, with a wide hem made to fit snugly over the kayak's cockpit coaming were ideal outer garments for wet weather and ocean travel in the kayak (/wiki/Kayak) . [19] (#cite_note-Pissurcuutet-19) Gut parkas are constructed using the intestines of sea mammals or bear and are worn in kayaks, tide pool collecting, dance and celebration. Embellishment of Yup'ik gut parkas used wolverine, bear, wolf, musk ox, dog hair, human hair, cormorant and murre feathers, eagle down, auklet feather and mandibles. [20] (#cite_note-Franreed-20) Blown gut requires only a short time to dry, but environmental conditions will alter dramatically the color and flexibility of the final product. Gut will become opaque and white when prepared in the most extreme conditions of cold, darkness and wind and this product is often referred to as "winter gut", and by some by the inaccurate term "bleached". The more yellow, non-flexible gut is prepared in less severe weather conditions and is called "summer gut". [20] (#cite_note-Franreed-20) The gut parka (raincoat) was and still is the most effective against wet weather, and was once prized by the Russian occupants as overall the best protection against the elements. [20] (#cite_note-Franreed-20) The Russians called traditional Aleut (/wiki/Aleut_people) gut parkas kamleikas (/wiki/Kamleika) (this word has been borrowed into Yup'ik as kamliikaq from Russian [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) ) and that word has been used as a general word for any gut parka. [20] (#cite_note-Franreed-20) Fish skin parka ( qasperrluk in Yup'ik; derived from qaspeq "parka cover kuspuk (/wiki/Kuspuk) " and the postbase (/wiki/Postbase) -rrluk "N that has departed from its natural state (often, though not always, with an undesirable connotation)", amirag in Cup'ig) is a kind of fish-skin clothing ( amiragglugaq ) also that could serve as a tent. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) [21] (#cite_note-Iqertagnek-21) Fish skin parkas in the past were worn by both men and women when hunting and traveling. In winter they were worn over a fur parka just as cloth covers have been in more recent times. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) A Yukon fish skin parka made of dog salmon (/wiki/Oncorhynchus_keta) ( Oncorhynchus keta ) skin. [22] (#cite_note-22) Nunivaarmiut men wore parkas made of silver salmon (/wiki/Oncorhynchus_kisutch) ( Oncorhynchus kisutch ) skin, while those of women were made of salmon trout (charr) (/wiki/Salvelinus_malma) ( Salvelinus malma ) skin and often had a white fox ruff on the hood. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) The Nunivaarmiut Cup'ig did not prepare their own fish skins for parkas, but bought them, already prepared, from Yup'ik people on the Yukon and Kuskokwim rivers. These imported skins had been stretched, smoke-dried, and scaled. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Bird skin parka ( tamacenaq in Yup'ik) made from skins of birds of the Alcidae (/wiki/Alcidae) , Anatidae (/wiki/Anatidae) , Gaviidae (/wiki/Gaviidae) , and Laridae (/wiki/Laridae) families. Bird skins make very good and warm parkas. Thick bird skin parkas were ideal winter wear but were also used during cold weather in summer. [23] (#cite_note-Yaqulegnek-23) Yupik (Yup'ik, Siberian Yupik, Sugpiaq ~ Alutiiq) and Inuit (Inupiaq) Eskimo seamstresses had regional variations in bird skin preparation techniques and bird skin parka styles and bird skin clothing-production techniques. [24] (#cite_note-24) Bird skin parkas are rarely made today and the skill is quickly disappearing among skin sewers in their region. [25] (#cite_note-25) During the 19th century, many Yup'iks along the coast between the Yukon and Kuskokwim rivers wore bird skins. Every year, one could afford to make a bird skin parka because birds returned in such abundance. A plump Yup'ik baby trussed up in eider skin smiled from a warm, dry, cushioned world. [26] (#cite_note-26) Two Nunivak Cup'ig children wearing circular caps ( uivqurraq ) and duck-skin parkas (probably aarraangiarat ) in 1928 photograph by Edward S Curtis (/wiki/Edward_S_Curtis) . [27] (#cite_note-27) Nunivaarmiut Cup'ig bird skin and feather parkas are alpacurrlugar (murre skin and feather parka) made from Uria aalge (/wiki/Uria_aalge) skin with feathers, cigurat atkut (guillemot skin and feather parka) made from Cepphus columba (/wiki/Cepphus_columba) skin with feathers, alpacurrlugar (auklet skin and feather parka) made from the white part of the Aethia cristatella (/wiki/Aethia_cristatella) skin with feathers, qilangar (puffin skin and feather parka) made from Fratercula corniculata (/wiki/Fratercula_corniculata) skin with feathers, aarraangiarat (oldsquaw skin and feather parka) made from Clangula hyemalis (/wiki/Clangula_hyemalis) skin with feathers, metrar (eider skin and feather parka) made from Somateria mollissima (/wiki/Somateria_mollissima) skin with feathers, tengaurtet (kittiwake skin and feather parka) made from Rissa tridactyla (/wiki/Rissa_tridactyla) skin with feathers (used as camouflage for sliding over the ice to sneak up on game). [16] (#cite_note-Nuniwarmiutpiciryarata-16) In the Nunivak, seabirds, particularly murres, nest in numbers, the natives paying annual visits to the nesting grounds to secure skins of puffins, murres and others for clothing. [28] (#cite_note-28) The bird skins most commonly used for clothing were those of the cormorant (/wiki/Phalacrocorax_pelagicus) ( Phalacrocorax pelagicus ), common or Pacific eider (/wiki/Somateria_mollissima) ( Somateria mollissima ), king eider (/wiki/Somateria_spectabilis) ( Somateria mollissima ), Steller's eider (/wiki/Polysticta_stelleri) ( Polysticta stelleri ), common murre (/wiki/Uria_aalge) ( Uria aalge ), horned puffin (/wiki/Fratercula_corniculata) ( Fratercula corniculata ). Cormorant and eider were considered more valuable and gave more prestige to the owner. Bird skin parkas are light and comfortable to wear but tear easily. Such parkas were usually reversible, worn with the feathers next to the body in winter with a cloth garment over the parka to cover the rough, yet fragile, skin side. At night the parka was turned and slept in or used as a blanket with the feathers on the outside. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Bird skin parkas were shaped like those made of animal skin, but because of the great thickness of the feathers and the general bulk, they did not have fur strips, beading, and other decoration. Cuffs and bottom borders tended to be plain except on murre parkas. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Tufted puffin skins were counted and sold in "knots" or bundles of six. Thirty-four skins were necessary for a man's parka and 28 for a woman's. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) The common puffin is smaller, so six knots and four extra skins were required for a man's parka, five knots and four extra for a woman's. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Puffins are found only along the cliffs near Nash Harbor (/wiki/Nash_Harbor,_Alaska) , and residents of Mekoryuk (/wiki/Mekoryuk,_Alaska) had to trade for them with those living in the settlement there. Sufficient puffins for a parka could be obtained in exchange for one bearded seal skin. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Parkas made of cormorant skins were worn only by women. The skins of these birds are larger than those of murres and puffins. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) When murre skins were prepared for parka use, they were roughly square in shape and included the breast and the sides. Two narrow black backs were sewn together to form the crown of the hood. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Pants [ edit ] Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) or Pants ( qerrulliik dual qerrulliit pl or ulruk dual [Bristol :Bay, Egegik] in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qerrullig dual in Cup'ig) used from sealskin or fur. Traditionally, fur trousers are worn by men and women, although today more and more Yup'ik wear pants made of woven materials. The big pants ( qerrulligpiik ~ qerrulviik or ulrurpiik dual in Yup'ik) and short pants ( qerrulcuarag in Cup'ig, also means panties (/wiki/Panties) ) are usable. Knee-length pants were worn under parkas. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) The crotch (/wiki/Crotch) of pants or body ( amlek sg amelgek dual in Yup'ik). The name of Kotlik (/wiki/Kotlik,_Alaska) village (is a federally recognized tribe (/wiki/List_of_Alaska_Native_tribal_entities) and Pastulirmiut residents are Calista Corporation (/wiki/Calista_Corporation) shareholders) derives its Yup’ik name Qerrulliik (dual form of qerrullik "a pair of pants, trousers"), from its location, where the Yukon River (/wiki/Yukon_River) splits apart nearby like the legs on a pair of trousers. [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-Bright2004-30) Summer pants ( atasuak ~ atayuak dual in Yup'ik). Trouser-boots ( allirtet pl [Unaliq-Pastuliq] in Yup'ik) is pants with attached socks made of fur. Women wore trouser-boots, each one made from a single small harbor seal skin with the seam running down the front of the leg. Each boot, longer on the outer (hip) side, was tied to the belt. Very short trousers made from a single small sealskin were also worn. A man's sealskin pants required two skins, and was not hemmed at the bottom. At the top the skin was turned under and stitched. Braided sinew was run through the hem to serve as a belt. Narrow strips of sealskin were sewn on a man's pants at the waist in front and in the seam of a woman's trouser-boots as fringe or tassel decoration. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Belt (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) ( nungirta ~ nungirun in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, nungirta in Cup'ig). Belts were held in place with a fastener. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Headwear [ edit ] The formation of the Eskimo Nebula (/wiki/Eskimo_Nebula) is like an Eskimo parka hood ruff with a face. Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) or Parka hood ( nacaq, uqurrsuk in Yup'ik, nacar in Cup'ig) is a common hat on the parka. The Greenlandic Inuit (/wiki/Greenlandic_Inuit) (Kalaallit, Tunumiit, and Inughuit), the Canadian Inuit (/wiki/Inuit) , and the Alaskan Iñupiat and Yup’ik usually wear a parka style which has an attached hood with a fur ruff to protect the face. These hoods are usually trimmed with an Arctic fox tail, or a broad strip of wolf or wolverine fur. [6] (#cite_note-Alinejcotel-6) The tengqucuk is a tip of parka hood; the kak’acuk is a pompon on tip of parka hood or hat; the kakauyaq is a decoration at the crown of the hood of a young woman's traditional Yup’ik parka that consists of strands of red, black, and, white beads or strips of calfskin; the menglairun is a strip of fur between the ruff and hood of a parka. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) The formation of the Eskimo Nebula (/wiki/Eskimo_Nebula) resembles a person's head surrounded by a parka hood. The emperor goose (/wiki/Emperor_goose) 's Yup’ik name nacaullek literally means "one having a parka hood". Separate hood ( yuraryaraq in Yup'ik) used with hoodless parka. They used them for traveling when they wore parkas without hoods. These hoods are made of squirrel-skin [15] (#cite_note-Qangananek-15) or strips of dyed fish skin. [21] (#cite_note-Iqertagnek-21) Nunivak Cup’ig (/wiki/Nunivak_Cup%E2%80%99ig_language) man with fancy hat ( nacarpig'ar men's dance hat; man's fancy cap with strips of fur hanging on shoulders) playing a very large drum ( cauyar ) in a 1927 photograph by Edward S Curtis (/wiki/Edward_S_Curtis) Hood ruff ( negiliq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, negili in Cup'ig) is not similar neck ruff (/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)) . Both men's and women's parka hoods were finished with a large hood cover, known as "sunshine ruff" or "sunburst ruff" made from strips of wolverine and fox. The sunshine ruff is made to resemble the rays of the sun beaming from one's face. The ruff on a fancy parka was constructed of not merely one or two layers of fur but of three or four of different tints and thicknesses. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) The yurturuaq is a small dark piece of fur at the very top of light-colored garment hood ruff (said to represent a black bear sitting on a mountain of snow) or small light piece of fur on dark-colored garment hood ruff (said to represent a polar bear). [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Hooper Bay (/wiki/Hooper_Bay,_Alaska) Askinarmiut boy poses wearing a circular cap ( uivqurraq ) and fur parka, in 1930 photograph by Edward S Curtis (/wiki/Edward_S_Curtis) . [31] (#cite_note-31) Fancy hat ( nacarpiaq in Yup'ik, literally "real hat", nacarpig'ar in Cup'ig) a Yup'ik men's ceremonial headdress ( angutet nacait "men's hats") with strips of fur hanging on shoulders or a drummer's hood traditionally used for opening ceremonies and dances. The nacarpiaq is made from bird feet leather, glass and crystal beads, cultured pearls and the skins and furs of wild animals like the mink, land otter, wolf and wolverine. The Yup’ik use animal hide because they believe animals sacrifice themselves in order for the wearer of the garment to survive. [32] (#cite_note-32) Nunivaarmiut Cup'ig men wore caps with many strips of fur hanging from the bottom edge over the neck and shoulders. The main body of these caps, worn at dances, was usually made of squirrel skins with a crown and borders of white reindeer fawn skin. Sometimes a wolverine tail was fastened on the back, and the long bottom fringe might be of reindeer skin strips. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Nunivaarmiut Cup'ig wolf head caps , which consisted of an entire head skin including ears and nose, were also worn at ceremonies. Edward S. Curtis (/wiki/Edward_S._Curtis) (1930) mentions animal-head caps worn during the Messenger Feast (/wiki/Messenger_Feast) . [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Circular cap or circular hat ( uivqurraq or uivquq in Yup'ik) is cap of squirrel or other skin with wood knot (/wiki/Knot_(wood)) -like ( uivquq "knot in wood, a mark left in timber by the origin of branches") beaded decorative bands. People wore circular caps like this in regions south of the Yukon River, where parkas were made without hoods. [33] (#cite_note-33) Yup'ik dancer (/wiki/Yup%27ik_dancing) from Inu-Yupiaq (/wiki/Inu-Yupiaq) dance group performing in a kuspuk (/wiki/Kuspuk) , dance headdress ( nasqurrun ), and mukluk A dance headdress ( nasqurrun ), 2009 Crown (/wiki/Crown_(headgear)) -like dance headdress or dance hat ( nasqurrun sg nasqurrutek dual nasqurrutet pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, nasqerrun in Cup'ig; which is derived from the nasquq "head; the person who starts the Kevgiq") a beaded and wolf, wolverine, weasel, otter, ermine fur-ruffed, also bear clawed [13] (#cite_note-Nunamiutarnek-13) or caribou-haired dance headdress used for Eskimo dancing (/wiki/Eskimo_dancing) . In coastal villages of the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta, men who led ceremonial "asking songs" during Kevgiq (/wiki/Kevgiq) (Messenger Feast), wore caribou-hair headdresses like this one. They directed the drumming and singing with feathered enirarautet (pointing sticks or dance sticks). Women wore similar headdresses, which remain a part of modern Yup’ik dance regalia for both sexes. [34] (#cite_note-34) The nasqurrun used to be worn by men at some frequencies. But after Euro-American contact with Alaska, female-only use got codified, and that's pretty much the way it is now. Knit cap (/wiki/Knit_cap) -like dance headdress or dance cap, dance hat ( nacarrluk in Yup'ik, literally "bad hat") is a beaded headdress worn by young girls to keep their caarrluk (dust and scent) from injuring others. Girls always wore those beaded hats, even though they weren't dancing. [35] (#cite_note-35) Steambath cap or feather sweatbath cap, firebath hat ( maqissuun in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, maqissun in Cup'ig) is a headgear worn in steambath (/wiki/Steambath) ( maqivik ) or other gear used in sweatbath (/wiki/Sweatbath) . While taking a sweat bath, men protected their heads with a crude cap of puffin, eider duck, or murre skins. The top of the cap was made from one whole skin split down the middle of the breast. The wings, with bones removed, were left on and stuck out at the sides. Half skins were sewn around each side. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) [23] (#cite_note-Yaqulegnek-23) Yup'ik semi-conical bentwood (/wiki/Bentwood) hunting visor (/wiki/Visor) ( elqiaq ) with walrus ivory (/wiki/Walrus_ivory) and feather decoration. Exhibit in the Arvid Adolf Etholén collection, Museum of Cultures ( Kulttuurien museo ) of National Museum of Finland (/wiki/National_Museum_of_Finland) , Helsinki, Finland. Yup'ik semi-conical bentwood (/wiki/Bentwood) hunting visor (/wiki/Visor) ( elqiaq ) with walrus ivory (/wiki/Walrus_ivory) and feather decoration. Ethnological Museum of Berlin (/wiki/Ethnological_Museum_of_Berlin) . Full-conical closed hunting hat or bentwood hat, bentwood helmet, conical wooden hat, conical hat (/wiki/Conical_hat) ( ugtarcuun, ugtarcurcuun in Yup'ik; derived from ugtaq "seal on an ice floe or shore") is shaped like a pointed piece of ice. Bentwood (/wiki/Bentwood) hunting hats helped to conceal the seal hunter as he floated in a white kayak among the broken spring floes. A wooden hunting hat shaded a man's eyes against waves, spray, and glare. This conical bentwood hat was worn by men when hunting seals amid floating sea ice (/wiki/Sea_ice) during spring seal hunting and during the Bladder Festival (/wiki/Bladder_Festival) ( Nakaciuryaraq ), when the souls of seals are returned to the sea. [36] (#cite_note-Niiteqayuluni-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-38) Semi-conical open hunting hat or bentwood visor, wooden visor, hunting visor ( elqiaq, ciayaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, elqiar, caguyag in Cup'ig, also caguyaq in Sugpiaq ~ Alutiiq (/wiki/Alutiiq_language) , originally borrowed from Aleut ~ Unangan (/wiki/Aleut_language) chagudax̂ (Eastern) [39] (#cite_note-39) chaxudax̂ (Western) during the Russian America era) is semi-conical shaped bentwood (/wiki/Bentwood) men's hunting hat decorated with feathers or traditional wooden visor to protect the eyes from the sun's glare, eyeshade. To make a visor a craftsman used hot water to soften the wood, then bent it around and stitched the ends together with sinew, baleen, or split root. Animal carvings were added as hunting charms. Feathers may have been added to assist the transformation of hunters into birds, as described in oral tradition. [36] (#cite_note-Niiteqayuluni-36) [40] (#cite_note-40) [41] (#cite_note-41) The pugugyug (in Cup'ig) is design on caguyar, the legcicuar (in Cup'ig, literally "small gaff") is small gaff attached to caguyar. [16] (#cite_note-Nuniwarmiutpiciryarata-16) Nunivak Cup’ig wooden snow goggles, Nunivak Island, Alaska, first half of the 20th century, Honolulu Museum of Art (/wiki/Honolulu_Museum_of_Art) Snow goggles (/wiki/Inuit_snow_goggles) ( niguak ~ niiguak dual or nigaugek dual nigauget pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, igguag in Cup'ig) are old-style snow goggles made out of wood with narrow slits, which admit only a little light. [36] (#cite_note-Niiteqayuluni-36) Snow goggles were carved from driftwood (/wiki/Driftwood) (esp. spruce (/wiki/Spruce) ), walrus ivory (/wiki/Walrus_ivory) , bone or caribou antler, and sometimes made with coarse seashore grass. [42] (#cite_note-Canegnek-42) The inside of goggles are always painted black, to reduce glare so one's eyes can stay wide open. [43] (#cite_note-fNig550-43) Goggles were created in various styles by artists from different regions, and they often resembled animals underscoring a pervasive Native theme of human-animal transformation. [5] (#cite_note-Susanfair-5) Some snow goggles are carved in the form of an animal mask. Arctic foxes (/wiki/Arctic_fox) have keen eyesight for hunting on the land and sea ice, a quality that the mask/goggles may have been intended to transfer to the person wearing them. [44] (#cite_note-Nig584-44) The goggles with narrow slits not only protect the eyes from excess light, but also sharpen and focus vision, like a pinhole camera. [45] (#cite_note-Nig559-45) Some goggles have large eye openings and are blackened with soot inside to eliminate reflections. [43] (#cite_note-fNig550-43) Snow goggles are an ancient element of Eskimo hunting cultures, appearing in archaeological sites up to 2000 years old. [45] (#cite_note-Nig559-45) Handwear [ edit ] Glove (/wiki/Glove) ( aasgaaq , aisgaaq [Yukon], aigsaaq , aigyaaq , aiggsak [Kuskokwim], aggsak [Kuskokwim], aaggsak , aaggsaq , yuaralek in Yup'ik, agyaaq , aiygaaq in Cup'ik, asgar in Cup'ig) were usually made out of caribou or sealskin, sometimes made out of fish skin (especially Pacific salmon (/wiki/Pacific_salmon) ) or dried grass. Decorated ceremonial fancy glove is aiggaqtaaq or aaggaqtaaq . waterproof fish-skin mitten ( arilluk ) Mitten (/wiki/Glove#Mitten) ( aliiman , aliuman , aritvak , kauman in Yup'ik, aritvag in Cup'ig). Child's mitten of any sort is aritvacuar or aritvacuarar (in Cup'ig). Long waterproof dehaired sealskin or fish-skin (salmon-skin) [19] (#cite_note-Pissurcuutet-19) mitten is ( arilluk sg arilluuk dual arilluut pl , arin in Yup'ik, arillugar in Cup'ig). Fish skin mittens with grass liners used for kayak travel during spring in bad weather. [42] (#cite_note-Canegnek-42) Man's short skin mitten used when going on a kayak trip is arikarer (in Cup'ig). People wore waterproof salmon-skin mittens to keep their hands dry while kayaking (/wiki/Kayaking) , driving a dog sled (/wiki/Dog_sled) , or working with fish nets (/wiki/Fish_net) . Woven seashore grass liners went inside for warmth. To prepare the fish skins, they were first soaked in urine (/wiki/Urine) , scraped clean, and then hung outside to freeze-dry in cold weather. The last step was to scrape off the scales. [46] (#cite_note-46) Wrist-length mittens used to be commonly made of seal or caribou skin with the fur and the rough edge of the seam on the outside. Sealskin mittens were frequently made from leftover pieces of skin after boots were cut from them. The back and palm were separate pieces and the thumb one piece; gloves were unknown. Women wore fur mittens reaching nearly to the elbow with wolverine trim along the upper edge. Mittens of silver salmon skins which reached to the elbow were worn by men when hunting in a kayak in spring. The fish were cut down the back and the belly skins used for mittens. These sometimes were lined with grass or had grass mittens, woven all in one piece, inside; often they had a border of bleached sealskin. The combination of fish skin mittens with grass padding was less bulky for paddling than fur mittens. According to Curtis (1930, p. 11), mittens of dehaired sealskin that reached barely to the wrist were also worn by men in the spring. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Footwear [ edit ] Yup'ik footwear (/wiki/Footwear) , especially Eskimo skinboots, known as mukluk, like other Eskimo groups, meets the challenge of weather, season, terrain and function with maximum efficiency, comfort and durability. Sole (/wiki/Sole_(shoe)) of boot (/wiki/Boot) ( alu ~ aluq sg aluk dual alut pl [also means sole (/wiki/Sole_(foot)) of foot] in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, atungar in Cup'ig) is the bottom of a boot, in contact with the ground. The nat'raq (in Yup'ik, nateraq in Unaliq-Pastuliq dialect) a special oversole of skin boot used to prevent slipping on ice. Yup'ik soles are traditionally made of bearded seal (/wiki/Bearded_seal) skin which is usually chewed to make it moldable. The sealskin materials used for skinboot soles are nat'rarkaq (in Yup'ik) "sole material for skin boots, made from the tanned skin of the bearded seal", atungagkar (in Cup'ig) "sealskin material to be used for making bootsoles", arinacir(ar) (in Cup'ig) "aged sealskin used for skinboot soles or as a mat", meqcirer (in Cup'ig) "sealskin aged to remove hair and stretched on stakes over ground (hide is then used for making boot soles)". [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) [16] (#cite_note-Nuniwarmiutpiciryarata-16) Boot soles were occasionally cut from old kayak (/wiki/Kayak) covers that had been made from bearded seal skins. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Siberian Yupik, Alaskan Yup'ik, and Iñupiaq boot soles are particularly thick, sometimes reaching a depth of five centimeters. [47] (#cite_note-Bettykobayashiissenman-47) Winter boots are made with depilated soles of bearded seal and leg sections of haired ringed or spotted seal. Decorative red yarn is worked into the sole seam around the toe and heel. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) In the past, boots used for dancing were also used as winter boot. The leg section was made from young caibou-leg skins and the soles were made from depilated skin of bearded seal. Today many dances are held indoors, so some women make the soles of their dance boots with lighter-weight materials such as ringed seal. Moose-leg skins are used when they are available. Commercially tanned calfskin is used by contemporary seamstresses. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Mukluks (/wiki/Mukluk) or Eskimo boots are soft knee-high boot traditionally made of seal (mostly bearded seal (/wiki/Bearded_seal) ) or caribou skin. Alaskan Eskimo mukluks are traditionally made with bearded seal skin soles and leg uppers of caribou trimmed with fur, but Alaskan Athabaskan (/wiki/Alaskan_Athabaskans) mukluks are traditionally made of moose (/wiki/Moose) hide and trimmed with fur and beadwork (/wiki/Beadwork) . There were various mukluk types of footwear used by Yup'ik Eskimos, including kamguk , kameksak , piluguk , and others. The word mukluk which is derived from the Yup'ik word maklak meaning bearded seal (/wiki/Bearded_seal) , because bearded seal skin is used for the soles of skin boots. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) The lower part of caribou's front legs ( tuntum iruit ) are used to make kameksaq and piluguq for Yup'ik footwear. [48] (#cite_note-48) [49] (#cite_note-49) Calf-high mukluk ( piluguq sg piluguuk dual piluguut pl in Yup'ik; often used in the dual)) is winter calf (/wiki/Calf_(anatomy)) -high skin boot. It is worn by both men and women, but men's boots are larger than women's. The men's boots don't really have decorations. They only put decorations on women's boots. [50] (#cite_note-50) This boots made of caribou leg skins were sewn using the front of the caribou's back leg on the boot's front and the back of its front leg on the boot's back; this avoided the skin that was worn thin by the animal's habit of kneeling to forage. [13] (#cite_note-Nunamiutarnek-13) [19] (#cite_note-Pissurcuutet-19) Knee-high mukluk ( kamguq sg kamguk dual kamgut pl in Yup'ik [Yukon]; often used in the dual) is knee (/wiki/Knee) -high or higher skin boot. Ankle-high mukluk ( kameksaq sg kameksiik ~ kameksak dual kameksiit pl in Yup'ik, kameksag dual in Cup'ig; often used in the dual) is ankle (/wiki/Ankle) -high skin or fur boot, or house slipper (/wiki/Slipper) . Fancy mukluk ( ciuqalek in Yup'ik) is fancy skin boot made with a piece of dark fur over the shin part (and back part). Nunivaarmiut ac'iqer ciuqaleg (in Cup'ig) is men's fancy skin boot with wolverine in front. Waterproof mukluks or waterproof boots are, Ivruciq ( ivruciq sg ivrucik dual ivruciit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, ivrucir in Cup'ig) [19] (#cite_note-Pissurcuutet-19) is waterproof sealskin boot with fur inside worn by men; At'arrlugaq ( at'ayagglugar in Cup'ig [in the Yup'ik Eskimo Dictionary as at'arrlugaq ]) is women's thigh-high sealskin waterproof hip boot (/wiki/Hip_boot) ; Qalluwit ( qalluwit in Cup'ig) is high waterproof boots for young; Mamlek ( mamlek [Yukon] in Yup'ik) is thigh-high skin boots with fur above the knee and waterproof material below the knee. Fish-skin boots ( amirak ~ amiraq sg amiriik dual in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) are waterproof skin boot made of fish skin. In the past fish-skin boots were made with depilated soles of bearded seal, ankle straps, and a casing sewn to the upper edge of the leg. Large salmon skins were prepared for boots by sewing up the fin holes. A round needle was used because a triangular needle would split the skin. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) [21] (#cite_note-Iqertagnek-21) Other Yupik and Cup'ik skin boots are, atallgaq (ankle-high skin boot), ayagcuun (thigh-high skin boot with fur out, any other item used in traveling), catquk (skin boot made of dyed sealskin), nanilnguaraq [Yukon] (short skin boot), qulip'ak ~ qulip'agaq [Unaliq-Pastuliq] (skin boot with beaver trimming), qaliruaq (ankle-high skin boot for dress wear; also means slipper; sock). Other Nunivaarmiut Cup'ig skin boots are, at'ar (Eskimo sealskin boot), ac'iqer (men's high skin fur Eskimo-boot), an'giuteg (men's Eskimo winter boots), ilutmurtar (men's boot sealskin for men with fur inside), qamquinar (men's high wading boot), unillugag (women's eskimo boots), yuunin (women's high skin boot), yuunillugar (women's old high skin boot), ac'upegglugar, acupegglugar (women's old high skin boot). Socks (/wiki/Socks) ( ilupeqsaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, ilupeqsar in Cup'ig) is as liner for boots. Loon skin socks made from the birdskin of loon (/wiki/Loon) ( Gavia ). [23] (#cite_note-Yaqulegnek-23) Grass socks made from Elymus mollis (/wiki/Elymus_mollis) used to be worn inside sealskin boots. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) The boots were lined with grass in the bottom and were worn with woven grass socks. Liner (/wiki/Lining_(sewing)) : The fur liner for skin boot ( murun or muruqaq , also means slipper (/wiki/Slipper) in Yup'ik and Cup'ik). The woven liner for skin boot ( alliqsak, alliqsaq sg alliqsiik dual in Yup'ik and Cup'ik), made by twining dried grass or burlap fibers, etc. Children's clothing [ edit ] Children's clothing (/wiki/Children%27s_clothing) ( mikelnguut aturait ) was made of soft skin of younger animals. Reindeer fawn and dog puppy (/wiki/Puppy) skin parkas, with the fur inside, were made for babies ( irniaq ) and small children ( mikelnguq ). Puppies one and two months old were killed for the purpose. Fawn and puppy skins were turned inside out, scraped, hung out to dry, and then put away. When needed the skins were taken from storage, rubbed between the hands with a rotary motion, and chewed as necessary to soften and loosen tissue that had not previously been removed. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) For a sealskin parka, one skin was required for a three-year-old, two for a five- or six-year-old, and three for a child of 10 or 12 years. A small child's sealskin parka was often decorated with tassels of the same material stitched to the upper center of the back. A baby's boots were always made with the fur inside but otherwise were similar in construction to adult boots. In former times, babies wore long boots and no pants. When a child was toilet trained, pants separate from boots were put on a boy, while girls were given trouser-boots like those worn by women. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) In addition to being addressed as kin by one's namesake's relations, a person Continues a special relationship with these people. As a child, she may receive gifts from them, such as the traditionally complete set of "head to toe" clothing, and frequent invitations to meals. [51] (#cite_note-Phyllismorrow-51) Trimming [ edit ] Trim (/wiki/Trim_(sewing)) ( naqyutkaun in Cup'ig) on parka, hat, and boot is decorative trimming elements such as patchwork (/wiki/Patchwork) pieces or tassel. Parka trim pieces made primarily of white and black skin of caribou or reindeer, also now largely replaced by calfskin. The fur of the wolf and wolverine are utilized by the Alaska Natives for parka trimming. [52] (#cite_note-Harborsandrivers-52) Wolverines have a somewhat higher basal metabolic rate than other animals their size, which means their internal fire burns a little hotter. To help hold in heat, they wear a long, luxuriously thick coat. Trappers prize this fur because the texture of wolverine hair also keeps it from absorbing moisture. Used widely as trim on parka hoods, cuffs and collars, it readily sheds frost that would otherwise build up from steaming breath. [53] (#cite_note-53) The Yup'ik non-hanging trims on clothing: akurun ~ akut (in Yup'ik) aku (in Cup'ig) trim at hem of parka, often made of pieces of black and white calfskin sewn together in a geometric design; tungunqucuk wide strip of otter fur below the light-colored decoration at the hem or cuff of a traditional Yup’ik parka, or other dark fur trim on a parka; cenliarun trimming on hem of garment; alirun ~ alinrun trim around parka cuff; tusrun ~ tusrulluk (in Yup'ik) tusrun (in Cup'ig) short, narrow, V-shaped calfskin on parka sleeve between shoulder and elbow of a traditional Yup’ik parka; pukiq light-colored, soft belly skin of caribou or reindeer used in fancy parka designs as trim on a parka; pukirneq skin of young caribou, used for making trim; naqyun (in Cup'ig) trim on parka or kuspuk; it’galqinraq strip of dried swan-foot skin, black in color, used as backing for decorative stitching; qercurtaq freeze-dried skin and white trim on dance hat. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) [16] (#cite_note-Nuniwarmiutpiciryarata-16) The black skin of wolf fish ( Anarhichas sp. qaculluk ) was used for trim on parkas in the Yukon and Norton Sound (/wiki/Norton_Sound) regions. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Tassels (/wiki/Tassel) ( alngaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, aqevyar in Cup'ig) are hanging (dangling) decorative trimming ornaments of wolverine fur or beads on a parka or boot. The Yup'ik tassels are, kayurun ~ kay'urrun ~ kasurun (wolverine-fur decoration on the upper part of parka sleeve), megcugtaq (piece of wolf fur on the tip of the shoulder or armpit tassels of certain traditional Yup’ik parkas, said to represent falling snowflakes in the winter, as a reminder to not waste food), pitgarcuun (tassel hanging from the armpit or just below the armpit of the traditional Yup'ik parka with red beads said to represent the blood of the legendary hero Apanuugpak (or Iluvaktuq ?) who had been shot with an arrow in that part of his body), avan ~ avata (one of a pair of tassels on the sides of the piece of calfskin in the middle of a traditional Yup’ik parka), qemirrlugun (piece of calfskin in the middle of a traditional Yup'ik parka with three tassels hanging from it, often having a "drawn bow and arrow" or a fish-tail design stitched on it; smaller plate below the large front and back plates on parka), miryaruaq (one of two tassels on the chest and back of certain traditional Yup'ik parkas; said to represent caribou fat vomited out by Iluvaktuq, a legendary hero, when he fled his enemies), mumeq (a tassel, representing a drumstick, hanging from one of the calfskin pieces on the traditional Yup’ik qulitaq parka as worn in the coastal area), pequmiutaq (decorative small wolverine "tail" on a traditional Yup’ik parka), uulungak (piece of fringed fur (mink, squirrel belly, etc.) sewn on hem or hood of garment). [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Apanuugpak (/w/index.php?title=Apanuugpak&action=edit&redlink=1) (also known as Apanukpak or Apanurpaq ), was Yup'ik legendary mythical great warrior figure or folk hero from the Kuskokwim and Nelson Island areas [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) during the 18th century traditional bow and arrow warfare, which occurred for many decades, ending about 200 years ago in the Yup'ik region of Southwest Alaska (/wiki/Southwest_Alaska) . According to anthropologist Ann Fienup-Riordan (/wiki/Ann_Fienup-Riordan) , four separate continuing conflicts in the region were part of the wars. [54] (#cite_note-54) Significantly, the Yup'ik Eskimos categorize the Apanuugpak stories as historical narratives ( qanemcit ) rather than mythical tales ( qulirat ). [55] (#cite_note-Fienupriordaneskimoessays-55) Apanuugpak convinced villages that war was a futile and wasteful activity. Robert Redford (/wiki/Robert_Redford) , the actor, attempted to make a movie about Apanuugpak, "The Winter Warrior." [56] (#cite_note-56) [57] (#cite_note-57) The movie was never completed. [58] (#cite_note-Kanaqlak-58) Yup’ik parkas told the legend of this great warrior. The parkas had two white strips on the shoulder area that meant "don’t tread on me, I’m a member of Apanuugpak’s tribe. These two white strips reminded people of the story told after Apanuugpak went caribou hunting with two of his warriors." [59] (#cite_note-59) Armbands (/wiki/Armband) ( kayurun in Yup'ik, Cup'ik, and Cup'ig) is biceps (/wiki/Biceps) straps used in dancing by dance song director. Men wore fancy armbands around the upper arm when dancing without a parka. These were made of seal or caribou skin with the fur on the inside and tufts of dog fur or other fancy fur sewn on for decoration. The bands were approximately three inches wide and were not continuous, but rather a strip with skin ties at each end. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Tools [ edit ] An ulu from Alaska (/wiki/Alaska) Yup'ik women roles included child rearing, food preparation and sewing. Skin sewing is artistic arena in which Yup'ik women and a few younger men excel. Everyday functional items like skin mittens, mukluks, and jackets are commonly made today, but the elegant fancy parkas of traditional times are now rare. [5] (#cite_note-Susanfair-5) The proper sewing of skins requires considerable and varied traditional knowledge and an intact extended family whose members help in hunting gathering, and processing the various components in addition to sewing. [5] (#cite_note-Susanfair-5) Women's tools include ulu, scraper, scraping board, needle, needle case, thimble, and pattern. There are many regional differences in the design and function of these tools. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Garments of the Alaska Native tradition are made using a variety of stitching techniques and with a variety of materials folded into the stitch. [20] (#cite_note-Franreed-20) Ulu (/wiki/Ulu) , also Eskimo knife or woman's knife ( uluaq in Yup'ik, kegginalek in Cup'ik, ulluar in Cup'ig) is multi-functional semilunar woman's knife. Ulus are made in different sizes depending upon the task for which they are intended. They are used for a broad range of jobs such as skinning and butchering carcasses, removing fat from skins, preparing meals, cutting skins for skin boats, and collecting shoe grass, as well as for sewing clothing and footwear. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) [60] (#cite_note-Mingeqsarat-60) Scraper (/wiki/Scraper_(archaeology)) or skin scraper ( tellunrun [Kuskokwim], pellumrun [Yukon], ellumrun , ellumerrun , urumerun , urugun , calugun , cakuugun [Unaliq-Pastuliq] in Yup'ik cakivcissuun in Cup'ik, calugciss'un [stone-end scraper used for scraping skin], nengulerciss'un [scraper for fawn skins; tanning tool for softening and stretching skin made from bone or ivory] in Cup'ig): Once skins are dried they must be scraped before they are pliable enough to sew into skin clothing or footwear. Often a seamstress uses a sharp scraper to remove any dried fat. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) The tuluruaq large piece of bent wood firmly fixed to the ground over which a skin is placed for scraping and stretching [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) and skin scraper with long handle for extra leverage. [60] (#cite_note-Mingeqsarat-60) Sinew (/wiki/Sinew) (as "sewing sinew" yualukaq in Yup'ik; as "sewing, cordage and netting sinew", "thread" or "tendon" yualuq sg yualuit pl or eglu ~ egluq in Yup'ik, ivalu ~ ivaluq in Cup'ik and Egegik Yup'ik, iwalu in Cup'ig) is made from the tendons (/wiki/Tendon) and ligaments (/wiki/Ligaments) of an animal's body. [61] (#cite_note-61) The tendons (/wiki/Tendons) of large animals such as wild caribou (/wiki/Rangifer_tarandus_granti) ( tuntu ) and semi-domesticated reindeer (/wiki/Reindeer) ( qusngiq ), moose (/wiki/Alces_alces_gigas) ( tuntuvak ), and beluga whale (/wiki/Delphinapterus_leucas) ( cetuaq ) (also, for other non-Yup'ik regions of Indigenous peoples of the North America: big horn sheep (/wiki/Ovis_canadensis) , black-tailed and white-tailed deer (/wiki/Odocoileus) , elk or wapiti (/wiki/Cervus_canadensis) , and bison or buffalo (/wiki/Bison_bison) ) were used for sinew. Dried animal tendons known as sinew are used to make their clothing and footwear, and to sew bedding, tents and kayak covers. These tendons are usually sliced off the long muscles on either side of the spine of a caribou or beluga whale. Sometimes shorter tendons are taken from other animals' parts such as bird's foot. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Yup'iks sewed using caribou ( tuntut yualuit, tuntut ivaluit ), moose ( tuntuviit yualuit, tuntuviim eglua ) or beluga ( cetuat yualuit ) sinews as thread in the old days. The hand-twisted sinew thread is yualukiuraq (in Yup'ik) or qip'ar (in Cup'ig). The iwalukegcaun (in Cup'ig) is wax or soap put on thread when sewing skin. The yualunguaq (in Yup'ik) is sinew thread for fish-skin. Needle (/wiki/Sewing_needle) or sewing needle ( mingqun sg mingqutek dual mingqutet pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, cikur in Cup'ig) is main tool for to sew ( mingqe- in Yup'ik, Cup'ik, and Cup'ig) In the past Alaska Eskimo usually carved fine sewing needles out of walrus ivory or split them from bird bones. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Also, made of squirrel bone. [60] (#cite_note-Mingeqsarat-60) The small holes in the needles were drilled with a mouth-bow drill. Today metal needles have replaced the ivory and stone needles. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Three-cornered skin-sewing needle, three-cornered needle or glover's needle ( quagulek, ipgut’lek, anguarutnguaq , ciilaq ~ ciilaviq [Nelson Island], ulunalek [Egegik] in Yup'ik, umilek in Cup'ik, quaguleg in Cup'ig) used to sew lightweight skin without pre-punching. Other kind of needles is round nedle ( quaguilznguar in Cup'ig). Crane's foot needle ( kakuun in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) is made from the front part of an uncooked crane's foot. [23] (#cite_note-Yaqulegnek-23) Needle case (/wiki/Needlecase) or needlecase ( mingqusvik, mingqusviutaq, mingqucivik in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, cikiwig in Cup'ig). Northern (Inupiat) and southern (Yup'ik) seamstresses had different styles of needle cases. The Yup'ik preferred bone or ivory needle cases made with stoppers at each end. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Needles stored in ivory needle cases or the hollow section of a swan wing bone. [60] (#cite_note-Mingeqsarat-60) Thimble (/wiki/Thimble) ( akngirnailitaq [Nelson Island, Bristol Bay], tekeq [Yukon, Egegik], curaq [Egegik], tekrun [Unaliq-Pastuliq] in Yup'ik, tekeq in Cup'ik, keniun in Cup'ig). Metal, ivory, or skin thimbles are worn on a seamstress's index finger to provide protection from needles. Skin thimbles are cut from shaved or bleached skins of bearded seals. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) The shell (/wiki/Seashell) thimbles are used by Yup'iks." [60] (#cite_note-Mingeqsarat-60) Sewing Bag or sewing box, sewing case ( kakivik in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, kakiwig in Cup'ig) which held a woman's needles, thimble, sinew thread, small knife, and whetstone. [60] (#cite_note-Mingeqsarat-60) A woman's ability to sew and repair clothing was critical to her husband's success as well as the whole family's survival. A girl could only become a wife after she learned to sew. Men sewed repairs for themselves while out hunting. [60] (#cite_note-Mingeqsarat-60) Iñupiaq and Yup’ik sewing kits epitomize the economy and thoughtfulness of Eskimo ingenuity with materials. [62] (#cite_note-62) Edna Wilder (1976), Secrets of Eskimo skin sewing . Anchorage, Alaska: Alaska Northern Publishing Company, 1976. Edna Wilder was the first native instructor in the art of skin sewing class held at the University of Alaska. Pattern (/wiki/Pattern_(sewing)) ( cuqcaun, cuqcissuun, cuqyun in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, cuqciss'un in Cup'ig; "gunsight; ruler; pattern; measuring device; measurement"). Yup’ik pattern-makers use rectangles (/wiki/Rectangle) , squares (/wiki/Squares) , rhombi (/wiki/Rhombi) , and right triangles (/wiki/Special_right_triangles) in different sizes to create a variety of interesting symmetrical patterns similar to linear frieze patterns. They use shapes of two contrasting colors to produce visually pleasing effects. The shapes derived from rectangles or squares fit together in several different ways. This allows people to make many different patterns using the same basic shapes. Yup’ik designers use linear patterns for parka borders (parka bottoms and sleeves), headbands, and boots. These patterns all follow a few rules. [63] (#cite_note-63) The pattern pieces ( tumaqcaq sg [in the Yup'ik Eskimo Dictionary as tumaqcaaq ] tumaqcat pl or tumartaq sg in Yup'ik) are polygon (/wiki/Polygon) geometric shape (/wiki/Geometric_shape) and like patchwork (/wiki/Patchwork) . The hide cut in a spiral pattern producing a long narrow strip of babiche (/wiki/Babiche) is aqsarqelleq (in Unaliq-Pastuliq Yup'ik). Yup'ik mathematics (/wiki/Mathematics) and science evolved to solve problems associated with living and traveling in the difficult world of the tundra. As a result, the human body became the center of mathematics. Yup'ik clothing patterns also provided a means for teaching geometry and could be used to teach literacy. Traditional geometric patterns on parkas were walking stories that told about legendary people, identified regions, and indicated families. [64] (#cite_note-64) One technique was to reproduce designs used in Yup'ik clothing and crafts in a set of geometric manipulatives to assist in teaching mathematical patterns, fractions (/wiki/Fraction_(mathematics)) , simple algebra (/wiki/Simple_algebra) , and tessellations (/wiki/Tessellation) . [65] (#cite_note-65) An important and common Yup’ik measure is the "knuckle", which forms the basis for constructing a square, which can be transformed into geometrically pleasing patterns that adorn squirrel parkas or become the basis of circles used for ceremonial headdresses. [66] (#cite_note-66) This knuckle (/wiki/Knuckle) is the middle [intermediate] phalange of the index finger (/wiki/Index_finger) and the “knuckle length” measure (not fingerbreadth (/wiki/Finger_(unit)) ) is a common unit in the Yup’ik measurement system. [67] (#cite_note-67) Yup'ik non-standard measurement units of length: aaggarner (in Cup'ig) measurement, the distance from the tip of the thumb to the tip of the middle finger with fingers spread out; angvaneq (in Yup'ik) measurement, the distance from the center of the chest (or the armpit ?) to the end of the fingertips of the outstreched arm and hand; cagner (in Cup'ig) measurement between tips of fingers on opposing hands when arms are extended out from the sides of the body; ikuyegarneq (in Yup'ik) ikuyegarner (in Cup'ig) measurement from one's elbow to the end of his fist; ikuyegneq (in Yup'ik) measurement from one's elbow to end of his outstretched fingertips; iqelqin (in Yup'ik) measurement from the tip of one's thumb to the tip of one's index fingers are stretched out from each other; itegneq (in Yup'ik) measurement from tip of toes to end of heel; foot (in length); it’ganeq (in Yup'ik) measurement from tip of toes to end of heel; foot (in length); malruneq (in Yup'ik) measurement of the width at their ends of the index finger and the middle finger held next to each other; naparneq (in Yup'ik) measurement from tip of extended thumb to opposite side fist; patneq (in Yup'ik) measurement, the width of the four fingers (thumb excluded) of one's hand; pingayuneq (in Yup'ik) measurement of the width at their ends of the index finger, the middle finger, and the ring finger held next to each other; pupsuneq (in Yup'ik) measurement from the thumb (outer edge of nail) to the second joint of the index finger curled up with section from tip to first joint along inner edge of thumb; qerruuner (in Cup'ig) measurement from fingertip to armpit or chest; quruner (in Cup'ig) measurement from fingertip to the armpit or chest; tallineq (in Yup'ik) measurement from one's fingertips to his armpit with the arm (and hand) outstretched; ' tallinin (in Yup'ik) measurement from the extremity of one’s fist to his armpit with the arm outstretched; taluyaneq (in Yup'ik) measurement, the distance from the folded elbow of one outstretched arm to the ends of the fingertips of the other outstretched arm; teklin (in Yup'ik) measurement from the tip of the thumb to tip of index finger when each is stretched out away from the other; tekneq (in Yup'ik) measurement being the width of the last section of one’s index finger; tumagneq (in Yup'ik) measurement of the width of the palm (flattened and with the fingers and thumb held together); tusneq (in Yup'ik) measurement being the width from the outside edge of one should to the outside edge of the other; yegyameg (in Cup'ig) from elbow (measuring to tip of hand). [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) [16] (#cite_note-Nuniwarmiutpiciryarata-16) Materials of Yup'ik garments [ edit ] Raw materials [ edit ] The primary subsistence activity for the Yup'ik is fishing, though hunting supplements the food supply and provides skins for clothing. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) The Yup'ik fur and skin clothing, like other Eskimo groups, is a key factor in ensuring their survival in the northernmost reaches of the globe. The raw materials (/wiki/Raw_material) of traditional Yup'ik clothing are skin (hide) and fur (pelt), intestine (gut), sinew, and grass. The raw material resources (/wiki/Resources) are sea and land mammals, birds, fish and plants. Traditionally, skins of birds, fish, and marine and land animals were used to make clothing. Hunting clothes were designed to be insulated and waterproof. Fish skin and marine mammal intestines were used for waterproof shells and boots. Grass was used to make insulating socks, and as a waterproof thread. Wastefulness being disrespectful, Yup'ik elders made use of every last scrap from hunts and harvests: seal guts became warm, waterproof, and breathable parkas; the skins of fish were fashioned into waterproof mittens, while their heads and entrails were stored in naturally refrigerated pits as insurance against future famine. Dried grasses became anything from insulating socks to bedding to sled rope, or even goggles to protect against snow blindness. [68] (#cite_note-Fienupriordanyuungnaqpiallerput-68) Skin (/wiki/Skin) or hide (/wiki/Hide_(skin)) ( amiq sg amiik dual amiit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, amir in Cup'ig). Traditionally, clothing may be made of a variety of skins, including bearded seal skin ( maklaarem amia ), hair-seal skin ( nayiim amia ), two-year-old spotted sea skin ( useqniim amia ), walrus skin ( asverem amia ), caribou skin ( tuntum amia ), calfskin ( kuluviim amia ), bearskin ( carayiim amia ), wolfskin ( keglunrem amia ), wolverine skin ( terikaniam amia ), oldsquaw duck skin ( allgiaraam amia ), swan skin ( qugyuum amia ) fish skins ( neqet amiit ), and others. Traditionally, virtually all parkas worn by the Nunivaarmiut were made from the skins of seals, caribou, or birds; the skins of reindeer have been used in more recent times. Mink and fox skins were also utilized in the past, the latter occasionally for the ruff since it was too thin to be durable enough for men's parkas. Mainland furs that have been used in recent times but not in the past include ground squirrels received from the people of Nelson Island who, in turn, obtained them from the Kuskokwim River, and wolverine used primarily for trim. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Muskrat skins (single layer) and Arctic ground squirrel (double layer) were used for winter parkas because these furs are light in weight but very warm. However, caribou (or its domesticated cousin, the reindeer, introduced to Alaska in the 1890s) is also quite warm and also more durable, making it perhaps the most desired material for winter clothing. [8] (#cite_note-Learningexperiences-8) Historically, ground squirrel, muskrat, and caribou were commonly used for clothing. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Traditionally, Nunivaarmiut Cup'ig skin clothing was washed in urine (/wiki/Urine) , but by 1939 only one family was doing this regularly. The dirty parts of a parka were immersed in a wooden urine dish and the fur kneaded down into the urine with a movement like kneading bread dough. Then the garment was shaken out and hung up to dry. Sometimes it was rinsed in clear water. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Fur (/wiki/Fur) or pelt ( melquq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, melqur in Cup'ig). Fur from land animals was warmer than other kinds of skin. Red-fox and white-fox skin parkas were warm. Mink, otter, and muskrat skins were used as parkas around here. [13] (#cite_note-Nunamiutarnek-13) Trapping (/wiki/Animal_trapping) of furbearing animals ( melqulek literally "one with fur, one having fur", derived from melquq and the postbase (/wiki/Postbase) -lek ) provides a large part of the income earned by the Alaska Natives as well as many of the white residents of Southwestern Alaska (/wiki/Southwestern_Alaska) . The principal animals hunted and trapped for fur are black, polar and brown bear, beaver, coyote, blue, cross, red, silver, and white fox, hare, lynx, marmot, marten, mink, muskrat, otter, squirrel, weasel, wolf and wolverine. The highest prices are received for marten, mink, beaver, otter, and silver fox, followed by wolf, coyote, and wolverine; but the major portion of income is derived from mink, beaver, marten, and muskrat due to the greater abundance of these species. The fur of the wolf, and wolverine have little commercial value in the fur market but are utilized by the Alaska Natives for parka trimming. [52] (#cite_note-Harborsandrivers-52) Gut (/wiki/Gut_(anatomy)) or intestines ( qilu, qiluq, qiluk sg qiluit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qilu in Cup'ig) and large intestines ( qilurpak sg qilurpiit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qilurpag in Cup'ig) were used to make waterproof raincoat parkas and boots. Walrus or bearded seal intestines were considered better materials for rain parkas than the intestines of small seals. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) In summer they were used as rain parkas and were as waterproof as garments made of intestine. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) The smoother inside of the gut would become the outside of the parka. [19] (#cite_note-Pissurcuutet-19) Bear gut ( taqukinraq sg taqukinraat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) parkas are said to last longer than seal gut ( irnerrluk in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, irnerrlug in Cup'ig) parkas. The seal-gut material ( qalirkaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik), esp. baby bearded-seal gut ( maklagaat qalirkait ) were used for smoke-hole window. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Tendon (/wiki/Tendon) (also with means "sinew" or "thread" yualuq sg yualuit pl or eglu ~ egluq in Yup'ik, ivalu ~ ivaluq in Cup'ik and Egegik Yup'ik, iwalu in Cup'ig) are made of thick, closely packed bundles of collagen fibers. The caribou, moose, and beluga whale tendons were made sinew used for thread to sew with. Resources [ edit ] The homeland of Yup'ik Eskimos is the Dfc climate (/wiki/K%C3%B6ppen_climate_classification) type subarctic (/wiki/Subarctic_climate) tundra ecosystem. Their lands are located in different five of 32 ecoregions (/wiki/Ecoregion) of Alaska: [69] (#cite_note-69) Nulato Hills ecoregion : The low, rolling Nulato Hills form a divide between the Bering Sea and the Yukon River, with streams on the east side flowing into the river and those on the west draining into Norton Sound. The largest communities are Unalakleet (/wiki/Unalakleet,_Alaska) and Mountain Village (/wiki/Mountain_Village,_Alaska) . Native people of this region are Inupiat (/wiki/Inupiat) , Koyukon Athabaskans (/wiki/Koyukon) and Central Yup'iks. Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta ecoregion : The Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta (/wiki/Yukon-Kuskokwim_Delta) in southwestern Alaska result from the deposition of heavy sediment loads from the glacial Yukon and Kuskokwim Rivers. Bethel is the largest community. This ecoregion is the heart of the area inhabited traditionally by the Yup'ik people. Ahklun Mountains ecoregion : Located in the southwest part of the state, the Ahklun (/wiki/Ahklun_Mountains) and Kilbuck Mountains define the divide between the drainages into Kuskokwim and Bristol Bays. Togiak (/wiki/Togiak,_Alaska) is the largest community. Native people of this region are Central Yup'iks. Bristol Bay Lowlands ecoregion : Past glaciation in the surrounding Ahklun Mountains and Aleutian Range (/wiki/Aleutian_Range) resulted in this flat-to-rolling moraine and outwash-mantled lowland around Bristol Bay in Southwest Alaska. Dillingham (/wiki/Dillingham,_Alaska) is the largest community. Native people of this region are Central Yup'iks and Alutiiq (Sugpiaq). The Bristol Bay Yup'ik settled the northern half of the region, while the Alutiiq settled the southern half. Bering Sea Islands ecoregion : Five major islands (St. Lawrence, Nunivak, St. Matthew (/wiki/St._Matthew_Island) , and the two Pribilof Islands (/wiki/Pribilof_Islands) of the St. Paul (/wiki/Saint_Paul_Island_(Alaska)) and St. George (/wiki/St._George_Island_(Alaska)) ) and their adjacent islets dot the inner shelf of the Bering Sea and constitute the Bering Sea Islands ecoregion. Central Yup'ik and Siberian Yupik people settled the larger islands closer to the Alaska mainland. Sea mammals [ edit ] Marine mammals (/wiki/Marine_mammals) or sea mammals ( imarpigmiutaq sg imarpigmiutaat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, imarpillar in Cup'ig) are only fin-footed species, such as seals (/wiki/Pinniped) and walruses (/wiki/Walrus) . There are four species of seals in Alaska that are referred to as ice seals (or ice associated seals ) because they use sea ice (/wiki/Sea_ice) for some important life history events such as pupping, nursing, molting, and resting. This ice seals (ringed, bearded, spotted, and ribbon seals) are all used for subsistence by coastal Alaska Natives for food, oil, materials, clothing, and handicrafts. [70] (#cite_note-70) Sealskin (/wiki/Sealskin) is ideal for milder, damp weather as the hair provides very little insulation, however, sealskins are wind and water-resistant. [71] (#cite_note-Jilloakesarcticdress-71) Sealskin parkas were the most common type in former times, being worn by people of all ages and both sexes. A sealskin parka for a woman or man required five skins. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) In the past, Yup'ik people relied on seals primarily for their meat, oil, and skin. The hide and sinew were commonly used as clothing, rope, nets, and for sewing. Sealskin could be used to make strands for rope and were used to make maklak skin boots. Intestines (guts) were used to make waterproof parkas. And even the fur of an unborn pup was used as a favorite trimming for clothing. [72] (#cite_note-72) Bearded seal (/wiki/Bearded_seal) Erignathus barbatus ( maklak sg makliik dual makliit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, maklag in Cup'ig) is the best-known species of the seals living in the all Eskimo (Yupik and Inuit) regions. For Yup'ik hunters, bearded seals were the seal of choice. Bearded seals were widely considered the best seal for meat. The blubber was rendered into oil and the hide used for a variety of items, including boot soles, rope, mats, and rifle cases. [73] (#cite_note-Susangeorgette-73) Ringed seal (/wiki/Ringed_seal) Pusa hispida or hair seal ( nayiq sg nayiik dual nayiit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, nayir in Cup'ig), known as "winter seal" or "regular seal", is the only seals generally available throughout the region all winter. In terms of meat, ringed seals were generally second in preference to bearded seals. However, ringed seals were the first choice of many hunters for oil. Skins from ringed seals were used for clothing such as boots, pants, mittens, and hats and for making floats for whaling. [73] (#cite_note-Susangeorgette-73) Spotted seal (/wiki/Spotted_seal) Phoca largha, Phoca vitulina largha and/or harbor seal (/wiki/Harbor_seal) Phoca vitulina ( issuriq sg issurik dual issurit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, issuri in Cup'ig) skins were in demand by skin sewers who fashioned them into slippers, boots, mittens, parkas, and floats. [73] (#cite_note-Susangeorgette-73) Ribbon seal (/wiki/Ribbon_seal) Histriophoca fasciata ( qasruliq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qasruleg in Cup'ig) was hunted only occasionally. Their meat is rich in blood and not a favored food, but some hunters liked the oil. Ribbon seals, particularly males, used was to be hunted for their skins, and still are at times, but this is less common than before. Because ribbon seal skins tear easily, they are most suitable for decoration or ceremonial clothing. [73] (#cite_note-Susangeorgette-73) Steller's sea lion (/wiki/Steller%27s_sea_lion) Eumetopias jubatus ( uginaq sg uginak dual uginat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, apakcug in Cup'ig) was not hunted or hunted only occasionally (at the present time). Sea lions are most common near the St. Lawrence Island (/wiki/St._Lawrence_Island) Siberian Yupik communities of Gambell (/wiki/Gambell,_Alaska) and Savoonga (/wiki/Savoonga,_Alaska) . [73] (#cite_note-Susangeorgette-73) Walrus (/wiki/Walrus) or Pacific walrus Odobenus rosmarus divergens ( asveq sg asverek ~ asevrek dual asveret ~ asevret pl in Yup'ik kaugpak in Cup'ik, kaugpag in Cup'ig). Hunting of walrus and other marine mammals in western Bristol Bay (/wiki/Bristol_Bay) , including Round Island (Yup'ik Qayaciq literally "place to go in a kayak") as part of the Walrus Islands State Game Sanctuary (/wiki/Walrus_Island,_Pribilof_Islands) , by the native people (Yup’ik-speaking Tuyuryarmiut) of the Togiak (/wiki/Togiak) area over the last 2,500 years is documented by archaeological and ethnohistorical evidence. Until the late 1930s and early 1940s, well-organized groups of hunters from Togiak traveled in kayaks to Round Island (the most reliable hunting location) and other islands armed with spears and harpoons to harvest walrus. Most parts of the walrus were used for food, raw materials, and sharing with inland villages. Another use of walrus which began in the early 19th century and has continued is the taking of walrus for their ivory for trade and sale. Walrus hunting was an important activity in Nushagak Bay and surrounding area during the Russian period. In addition to hunting for food, walrus ivory was traded at the Russian America company post, Alexandrovski, on Nushagak Bay. Walrus were hunted off Hagemeister Island, among other places. The Russian-era trade in walrus ivory peaked from 1821–1842. The Aglegmiut Eskimos of Bristol Bay were known for their skill as ivory carvers. [74] (#cite_note-74) Beluga whale (/wiki/Beluga_whale) or white whale Delphinapterus leucas ( cetuaq sg cetuak dual cetuat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, cetuar in Cup'ig). The shallow waters around Nunivak Island generally host low cetacean populations, although beluga ( Delphinapterus leucas ), Dall's porpoise (/wiki/Dall%27s_porpoise) ( Phocoenoides dalli ), killer whales (/wiki/Killer_whale) ( Orcinas orca ) occasionally visit the area. Dark beluga whale (/wiki/Beluga_whale) sinew ( cetuat yualuit ) [19] (#cite_note-Pissurcuutet-19) was occasionally used for decorative stitching by Nunivaarmiut Cup'ig. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Land mammals [ edit ] Terrestrial mammals or land mammals ( nunarmiutaq sg nunarmiutaat pl in Yup'ik) are game animals and furbearers. Game animals ( pitarkaq sg pitarkat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, pitarkar sg pitarkat pl in Cup'ig). Caribou, moose and "bears" are included in the definition of the word pitarkat . Caribou (/wiki/Porcupine_caribou) or Porcupine caribou, wild caribou Rangifer tarandus granti ( tuntu sg tuntuk dual tuntut pl or tuntupik sg tuntupiik dual tuntupiit pl or tuntupiaq sg tuntupiak dual tuntupiat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, tuntupig in Cup'ig). Caribou skin is ideal for cold, dry weather as each hair has a honeycomb core that traps air, which is an excellent insulator. [71] (#cite_note-Jilloakesarcticdress-71) Sealskins and caribou skins were always kept separate and not combined in the same garment except for occasional decorative strips. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Yup’ik dance fans decorated with caribou throat hair, caribou leg-skins were made into high boots, sleeping bags for travel made by joining two caribou skins and fur-side-out fancy parkas. [68] (#cite_note-Fienupriordanyuungnaqpiallerput-68) Historically, caribou were hunted in the fall and skins were brought home for skin clothing. Caribou hunts were discouraged by the Russian and American traders as they felt it took the trappers away from their trap lines. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Prior to European contact, caribou were important not only for their meat but for the skins which were an important item used in clothing. The Russians encouraged the Eskimos to adopt Western-style dress in order to release more furs for trading. [75] (#cite_note-subsistence.adfg.state.ak.us-75) In the spring, some people hunted caribou along the inland river ways. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) A group of Nunivak Cup'ig children playing on a fence at the reindeer roundup on Nunivak Reindeer (/wiki/Reindeer) or (semi)domestic caribou Rangifer tarandus tarandus ( qusngiq sg qusngik dual qusngit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qusngir sg qusngig dual qusngit pl in Cup'ig). The word qusngiq which is derived from the Chukchee (/wiki/Chukchi_language) qoraŋe (ӄораӈы) or Koryak (/wiki/Koryak_language) qoyaŋa (ӄойаӈа). [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) In Europe, use the terms "caribou" and "reindeer" synonymously, but in Alaska and Canada "reindeer" refers exclusively to semi-domesticated forms. [76] (#cite_note-caribou-76) Only in North America are wild Rangifer referred to as "caribou". In Eurasia, "reindeer" are classified as either domesticated or wild. [77] (#cite_note-77) Domestic reindeer ( Rangifer tarandus tarandus ) were introduced into Alaska 100 years ago and have been maintained as semidomestic livestock. They have had contact with wild caribou ( R. t. granti ) herds, including deliberate crossbreeding and mixing in the wild. Reindeer have considerable potential as a domestic animal for meat or velvet antler production, and wild caribou are important to subsistence and sport hunters. [78] (#cite_note-78) The Bureau of Indian Affairs (/wiki/Bureau_of_Indian_Affairs) (BIA) managed reindeer operations on the Nunivak Island (/wiki/Nunivak_Island) beginning in 1940. The Nunivak herd is composed of about 4,000 reindeer. The southern half of Nunivak is a designated Wilderness area, which presents challenges in summertime herding, since use of motorized recreational vehicles is forbidden within the Wilderness area without adequate snow cover. [79] (#cite_note-79) In the more recent past, when reindeer skins have been used for parkas, the front was usually taken from the ventral side of the deer, the back from the dorsal area, and leg strips were used for the sleeves. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Hides are used for clothing, mukluks, blankets, mittens, tents, boat coverings, sleeping bags, house coverings and insulation. Back sinew is used to make thread. Hard antlers and bone are used to make utensils, tools and decorative objects. [80] (#cite_note-80) Moose (/wiki/Alces_alces_gigas) or Alaska moose Alces alces gigas ( tuntuvak sg tuntuviik dual tuntuviit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, tuntuwag in Cup'ig, literally "big caribou") Muskox (/wiki/Muskox) Ovibos moschatus ( umingmar, maskar in Nunivak Cup'ig). Alaska's original muskox were hunted to extinction in the mid-1800s - perhaps by whalers and others. They had originally ranged Alaska's arctic and western coastal tundra. In 1935-1936 the U.S. Biological Survey (/wiki/United_States_Fish_and_Wildlife_Service) brought 31 muskoxen from Greenland (/wiki/Greenland) to Nunivak Island (/wiki/Nunivak_Island) in an effort to reestablish the species in Alaska and as a means for subsistence (/wiki/Hunter-gatherer) living. [81] (#cite_note-FWS-81) Because the animals were federally protected, and since the Nunivaarmiut were afraid of them, they added nothing to the local economy until 40 years later. when Nunivak women learned to make fine items of clothing from the underwool of the muskox ( qiviut ). [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) The muskox are large animals that look a lot like bison (/wiki/Bison) , but have wool like sheep (/wiki/Sheep) , and has a two-layered coat, and qiviut (/wiki/Qiviut) refers specifically to the soft underwool beneath the longer outer wool. The first modern hunting season was in 1975. Today the Nunivak herd numbers around 600 animals, down from a high of around 700 animals in 1968. [82] (#cite_note-82) Furbearers or fur-bearing animals ( melqulek sg melqulget pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, melquleg in Cup'ig) are commonly trapped (/wiki/Animal_trapping) for their pelts. Taking advantage of Alaska's rich supply of fur-bearing animals, the Yup'ik use a variety of materials for their parkas. [10] (#cite_note-Britishmuseumatkupiaq-10) Beaver, river otter, red fox, Arctic fox, marten, lynx, mink, ground squirrel, marmots, and muskrat are trapped in specific regions during the fall and winter. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Grizzly bear (/wiki/Grizzly_bear) or brown bear Ursus arctos horribilis ( taqukaq sg taqukaat pl or carayak sg carayiit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, paugnar in Cup'ig) Black bear (/wiki/American_black_bear) or American black bear Ursus americanus ( tan'gerliq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, tungulzria in Cup'ig). Black bear skins are dried and used for making mukluks, and trim on other articles of clothing. [83] (#cite_note-Coffing2001-83) Polar bear (/wiki/Polar_bear) Ursus maritimus ( nanuaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, arlunar in Cup'ig) Wolf (/wiki/Wolf) or gray wolf Canis lupus ( kegluneq sg keglunerek dual kegluneret pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, kegg'luner in Cup'ig) Dog (/wiki/Dog) or adult dog Canis lupus familiaris ( qimugta sg qimugtek dual qimugtet pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qimugta sg qimugteg dual qimugtet pl in Cup'ig), Puppy (/wiki/Puppy) or juvenile dog ( qimugkauyar(aq) sg qimugkauyaraat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qimukcuar(ar) in Cup'ig). For thousands of years, dogs have been tightly interwoven in the Yup'ik way of life ( yuuyaraq in Yup'ik, cuuyaraq in Cup'ik), for transportation and companionship. Adult dog skins not used in clothing production. Only juvenile dog (puppy) skins are usable. Puppy skin parkas, with the fur inside, were made for babies and small children. Puppies one and two months old were killed for the purpose. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Red fox (/wiki/Red_fox) Vulpes vulpes ( kaviaq sg kaviak dual kaviat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, kavviar in Cup'ig) Arctic fox (/wiki/Arctic_fox) Vulpes lagopus ( uliiq sg uliirek dual uliiret pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qaterlir [white fox], eqyerer [blue fox] illaassug [cross fox] in Cup'ig) Lynx (/wiki/Canada_lynx) or Canada lynx Lynx canadensis ( tertuli sg tertulit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) Sea otter (/wiki/Sea_otter) Enhydra lutris ( arrnaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, aatagar in Cup'ig) Land otter (/wiki/Lontra_canadensis) or river otter Lontra canadensis ( cuignilnguq sg cuignilnguut pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, cenkar, pirturcir(ar) in Cup'ig) Mink (/wiki/Neovison_vison) Neovison vison ( imarmiutaq sg imarmiutaat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, imarmiutar sg imarmiutat pl in Cup'ig). Mink skin parkas, and also mink pants for small boys, used to be made. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Weasel (/wiki/Mustela_erminea) or stoat Mustela erminea ( narullgiq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, terriar(ar) [in winter coloration] narullgir [in summer coloration] in Cup'ig) Marten (/wiki/Martes_americana) Martes americana ( qavcicuaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) Wolverine (/wiki/Wolverine) Gulo gulo luscus ( terikaniaq sg terikaniak dual terikaniat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qavcig, terikaniar in Cup'ig). Wolverine hair is ideal for parka hood ruffs because it does not collect the frost produced by breathing, and its long hairs block the wind to prevent frostbite. Wolverine cuffs (on parka) help to warm the wrists. [8] (#cite_note-Learningexperiences-8) The front and back or side panels of Yup'ik boots are decorated with otter tassels, wolverine yassels, red yarn, and sometimes a string of beads. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) Muskrat (/wiki/Muskrat) Ondatra zibethicus ( kanaqlak sg kanaqliik dual kanaqliit pl or tevyuli in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, kanaqlag in Cup'ig) Vole (/wiki/Vole) Microtus miurus (/wiki/Microtus_miurus) (singing vole) and Clethrionomys rutilus (/wiki/Clethrionomys_rutilus) (northern red-backed vole) ( avelngaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) Collared lemming (/wiki/Dicrostonyx_groenlandicus) or northern collared lemming Dicrostonyx groenlandicus ( qilagmiutaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) Brown lemming (/wiki/Lemmus_trimucronatus) or Nunivak Island brown lemming Lemmus trimucronatus harroldi ( pugultu in Cup'ig) Beaver (/wiki/Castor_canadensis) Castor canadensis ( paluqtaq sg paluqtak dual paluqtat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, paluqtar in Cup'ig) Porcupine (/wiki/Erethizon_dorsatum) Erethizon dorsatum ( issaluuq sg issaluut pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) Tree squirrel (/wiki/Tamiasciurus_hudsonicus) or red squirrel Tamiasciurus hudsonicus ( qiguiq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) Ground squirrel (/wiki/Spermophilus_parryii) or parky squirrel, parka squirrel Spermophilus parryii ( qanganaq sg qanganat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qanganar in Cup'ig). The fancy parka or atkupiaq is made of ground squirrel pelts, preferred among the Yup'ik for winter clothing because of its warmth and lightness. [10] (#cite_note-Britishmuseumatkupiaq-10) Parkas made from ground squirrel skins were especially light and warm. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Normally the skins of 45 squirrels were necessary to make a man's parka and 35 for a woman's. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Marmot (/wiki/Marmota_caligata) or hoary marmot Marmota caligata ( cikigpak sg cikigpiit pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik) Hare (/wiki/Lepus_othus) or jackrabbit, tundra hare, Arctic hare (but true Arctic hare is Lepus arcticus (/wiki/Lepus_arcticus) and it's not live in Alaska) Lepus othus ( qayuqeggliq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qayuqegglir in Cup'ig) Rabbit (/wiki/Lepus_americanus) or snowshoe hare, snowshoe rabbit Lepus americanus ( maqaruaq sg maqaruak dual maqaruat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, maqaruar in Cup'ig) Birds [ edit ] Birds (/wiki/Birds) ( tengmiaq sg tengmiak dual tengmiat pl or yaqulek sg yaqulgek dual yaqulget pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, tengmiar sg tengmiag dual tengmiat pl in Cup'ig) are used mostly for garment as parka (eider, duck, murre, guillemot, auklet, puffin, kittiwake, cormorant, owl) or cap (puffin, eider, murre) and tool as needle (crane). Not only did people prize bird skins for parka material, but they used their feathers and bones for many things such as fire-bath hats, dance fans, dust brooms, needle cases, even peashooters. [23] (#cite_note-Yaqulegnek-23) Common eider (/wiki/Somateria_mollissima) or Pacific eider Somateria mollissima ( metraq sg metraak dual metraat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, angiikvak in northern Yup'ik dialects, metr(ar), nanwista , metrapig ♀ tunupista ♂ in Cup'ig) King eider (/wiki/Somateria_spectabilis) Somateria mollissima ( qengallek sg qengallgek dual qengallget pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qengalleg in Cup'ig). They made those king eider skins into parkas for children. Steller's eider (/wiki/Polysticta_stelleri) Polysticta stelleri ( anarnissakaq sg anarnissakat pl [Yukon], caqiar(aq) [Kuskokwim] in Yup'ik, qaciar(ar) in Cup'ig) Oldsquaw (/wiki/Clangula_hyemalis) or long-tailed duck Clangula hyemalis ( allgiar(aq) sg allgiaraat pl [Kuskokwim], allgiar [Bristol Bay], aliaaliq [Unaliq-Pastuliq], aarraaliq , aarraangiiq [Kuskokwim] in Yup'ik, aarraangiiraq sg aarraangiirat pl or aarrangyaraq in Cup'ik, aarrangiir in Cup'ig). Like other birds, oldsquaws have the best skins in autumn after they have shed and re-grown their feathers. Oldsquaw skins, being thinner, were used for women's parkas. Swan (/wiki/Cygnus_columbianus) or tundra swan, whistling swan Cygnus columbianus columbianus ( qugyuk sg qugyuuk dual qugyuut pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qugsuk [Unaliq-Pastuliq], caqulegpak [Egegik], qugyug in Cup'ig) skins used to make parka. Sandhill crane (/wiki/Grus_canadensis) Grus canadensis ( qucillgaq sg qucillgaak dual qucillgaat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qucilkuryug in Cup'ig). Needle ( kakuun ) made from the front part of an uncooked crane's foot. Horned puffins (/wiki/Horned_puffin) on a Nunivak Island sea cliff, August 2008. Horned puffin skins were counted and sold in "knots" or bundles of six. Thirty-four skins were necessary for a man's parka and 28 for a woman's. Common murre (/wiki/Uria_aalge) or common guillemot Uria aalge ( alpa ~ alpaq sg alpak dual alpat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, alpa sg alpag dual alpat pl in Cup'ig) Pigeon guillemot (/wiki/Cepphus_columba) Cepphus columba ( ciguraq sg ciguraat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, cigurer sg cigurat pl in Cup'ig) Crested auklet (/wiki/Aethia_cristatella) Aethia cristatella ( cip'lagar, cukilpag in Cup'ig) Horned puffin (/wiki/Fratercula_corniculata) Fratercula corniculata ( qilangaq, qengacuar(aq) in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, qilangar, tunngar in Cup'ig) Black-legged kittiwake (/wiki/Rissa_tridactyla) Rissa tridactyla ( naruyacuaq in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, tengaurta sg tengaurtet pl or tengauqsarar(ar) , qarliar(ar) in Cup'ig) Pelagic cormorant (/wiki/Phalacrocorax_pelagicus) Phalacrocorax pelagicus ( uyalek sg uyalget pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, uyaleg sg uyallget pl in Cup'ig) Snowy owl (/wiki/Bubo_scandiacus) Bubo scandiacus ( anipa ~ anipaq sg anipat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, anipar in Cup'ig) Fish [ edit ] Fish (/wiki/Fish) ( neqa sg neqek dual neqet pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik neqa or iqallug in Cup'ig) is one of the most common Yup'ik foods. Fish skins ( neqet amiit or amirak ~ amiraq in Yup'ik) and intestines are used for waterproof clothing ( amiragglugaq ) in a few areas, especially in southern coastal Alaska. For example, commercial herring fishers from Toksook Bay, Alaska (/wiki/Toksook_Bay,_Alaska) still prefer intestine parkas to heavy-duty raincoats, as they are lighter and allow body vapor to pass through the skin membrane while preventing rain from entering. [71] (#cite_note-Jilloakesarcticdress-71) In former times, rather crudely made shirts without hoods were made of local salmon or trout skins. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Through rarely used today, in the past fish skin was also used for waterproof boots ( amirak ~ amiraq ) and mittens ( arilluk ) also parka ( qasperrluk ), making these items water-repellent and durable. Fish skin was also used to make parkas, mittens, and pants for summer use. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) The sinew for fish skins known as yualunguaq (fish-skin thread). Pacific salmons (/wiki/Oncorhynchus) Oncorhynchus ( neqpik sg neqpiik dual neqpiit in Yup'ik, literally "real fish") Dog salmon (/wiki/Oncorhynchus_keta) or chum salmon Oncorhynchus keta ( iqalluk sg iqalluuk dual iqalluut pl [Kuskokwim, Yukon], kangitneq sg kangitnerek dual kangitneret pl [Bristol Bay] in Yup'ik, mac'utar sg mac'ut'ag dual mac'ut'at pl in Cup'ig) Silver salmon (/wiki/Oncorhynchus_kisutch) or coho salmon Oncorhynchus kisutch ( qakiiyaq sg qakiiyak dual qakiiyat pl [Bristol Bay Kuskokwim ], uqurliq [Yukon], caayuryaq [Unaliq-Pastuliq] in Yup'ik, qavlunaq in Cup'ik, ciayuryar sg ciayuryag dual ciayuryat pl in Cup'ig) King salmon (/wiki/Oncorhynchus_tschawytscha) or Chinook salmon Oncorhynchus tschawytscha ( taryaqvak sg taryaqviik dual taryaqviit pl [Bristol Bay Nushagak, Kuskokwim, Yukon] tarsarpak [Unaliq-Pastuliq] kiagtaq [Yukon] in Yup'ik, taryaqvak in Cup'ik, taryaqvag pl in Cup'ig) Trout (charr) (/wiki/Salvelinus_malma) or salmon trout, Dolly Varden Salvelinus malma ( iqallugpik sg iqallugpiik dual iqallugpiit pl [Kuskokwim, Yukon], yugyaq [Bristol Bay] in Yup'ik, iqalluyagar sg iqalluyagag dual iqalluyagat pl in Cup'ig) Plants [ edit ] Driftwood on Arey Island (/wiki/Arey_Island) on the Alaska North Slope (/wiki/Alaska_North_Slope) of Inupiat lands Plants (/wiki/Plants) ( naunraq sg naunraat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, naucir(ar) in Cup'ig) Trees (/wiki/Tree) . Along the treeless coast and islands of Alaska, driftwood (/wiki/Driftwood) has always been the main source of wood for people. Driftwood mainly transported by rivers and delivered by the sea is a natural and renewable resource. In the Yup’ik area, driftwood species commonly used includes white spruce (/wiki/White_spruce) , willow (/wiki/Willow) and cottonwood (/wiki/Populus_balsamifera) are mostly used, but occasionally logs of red cedar (/wiki/Thuja_plicata) , Alaska yellow cedar (/wiki/Cupressus_nootkatensis) , and hemlock (/wiki/Tsuga_mertensiana) are found. [84] (#cite_note-Wheeleralixdriftwood-84) Spruce (/wiki/Picea) Picea spp. ( kevraartuq sg kevraartuk dual kevraartut pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, equgpigar in Cup'ig) species of Yup'ik regions are only white and black spruces. The white spruce (/wiki/Picea_glauca) ( Picea glauca ) through interior Alaska (/wiki/Interior_Alaska) corresponding to the range of the spruce-hardwood forest, north and west to tree limit. From Firth River and its tributary Joe Creek on Arctis slope, west along south slopes of Brooks Range from Arctic and Wiseman to Noatak River. South in eastern part of Seward Peninsula to Unalakleet, St. Marys on Yukon River, Bethel on Kuskokwim River, and Dillingham, and Naknek Lake near base of Alaska Peninsula. [85] (#cite_note-Vierecklittle-85) The black spruce (/wiki/Picea_mariana) ( Picea mariana ) Interior Alaska within range of the spruce-hardwood forest and north to southern slopes of Brooks Range. West from Old Rampart to Wiseman, upper Kobuk River near Shungnak, also Squirrel River, to Kaltag on Yukon River and to Elim at base of Seward Peninsula, South to Stony River on Kuskokwim River, Lake Clark, and Iliamna, and reported from Naknek at base of Alaska Peninsula . [85] (#cite_note-Vierecklittle-85) Spruce wood has been used to make shoehorns, skates, snowshoes and boot insoles. [86] (#cite_note-Kevinjernigan-86) Alder (/wiki/Alnus) Alnus spp. ( cuukvaguaq sg cuukvaguak dual cuukvaguat pl , auguqsuli ~ auguqsuliq, caarilluk, caarin in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, cukvagguar in Cup'ig) species of Yup'ik regions are only mountain and thinleaf alders. The mountain alder (/wiki/Alnus_viridis) or American green alder ( Alnus viridis subsp. crispa ) widely distributed in interior Alaska (/wiki/Interior_Alaska) north to Colville River (/wiki/Colville_River_(Alaska)) , north slopes of Brooks Range (/wiki/Brooks_Range) , Firth (/wiki/Firth_River) , Porcupine (/wiki/Porcupine_River) , Yukon (/wiki/Yukon_River) , Koyukuk (/wiki/Koyukuk_River) , Kobuk (/wiki/Kobuk_River) , and Noatak Rivers (/wiki/Noatak_River) , and west to Bering Sea; south to Bethel (/wiki/Bethel,_Alaska) and Alaska Range (/wiki/Alaska_Range) and southward in Susitna (/wiki/Susitna_River) and Copper River (/wiki/Copper_River_(Alaska)) Valleys, locally beyond. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) The Thinleaf alder (/wiki/Alnus_incana) ( Alnus incana subsp. tenuifolia ) Interior Alaska from Yukon River Valley west to mouth of Yukon River, south to Bethel on Kuskokwim River (/wiki/Kuskokwim_River) , and base of Alaska Peninsula (/wiki/Alaska_Peninsula) at Katmai (/wiki/Katmai_National_Park_and_Preserve) , and east to Kenai Peninsula (/wiki/Kenai_Peninsula) and Copper River Valley. Also north end of southeast Alaska from Juneau (/wiki/Juneau,_Alaska) to Haines (/wiki/Haines,_Alaska) . [85] (#cite_note-Vierecklittle-85) Additionally, the bark of alders is used to dye boots and clothing made from animal skin, particularly wolverine or seal skin. [86] (#cite_note-Kevinjernigan-86) Red color red ochre dye ( kavirun in Yup'ik) obtained from the inner bark of alders. The bitter part of the alder inner bark as tannin (/wiki/Tannin) ( tumagaq in Yup'ik) was removed and added to the water to make dye. After the water became dark, the skin was put into it to dye it. The cungagaq is alder inner bark dye applied to reduce shrinkage and the cungagartaq is dyed leather piece used to decorate sewn items. [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Grasses (/wiki/Grasses) ( canek sg can'gek dual can'get pl or (e)vek sg evgek ~ veg'ek dual evget ~ veg'et pl in Yup'ik, evek in Cup'ik, caneg in Cup'ig) are used as insoles for fish skin boots, kuspuks, mitterns, also snow goggles. [42] (#cite_note-Canegnek-42) This dried grass used for insoles known as piinerkaq . [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) Fish skin mittens ( arilluuk ) with grass liners used for kayak travel during spring in bad weather. [42] (#cite_note-Canegnek-42) Grass kuspuk used to keep a person warm and dry. [42] (#cite_note-Canegnek-42) The boots were lined with grass in the bottom and were worn with woven grass socks. Grass boot liners ( alliqsiik ) which both insulated feet and wicked away moisture to keep them dry and warm. [42] (#cite_note-Canegnek-42) Coarse seashore grass (/wiki/Leymus_mollis) or coarse grass, dune grass, beach grass Leymus mollis subsp. mollis ( taperrnaq sg taperrnak dual taperrnat pl in Yup'ik and Cup'ik, taperrnar in Cup'ig) Yup’ik people use the leaves extensively to make mittens, socks, mats, and baskets. [7] (#cite_note-Jilloakesrickriewe-7) In former times, men wore grass socks and folded grass insoles inside their water boots; in cold weather sealskin socks were worn. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Coarse grass, gathered in October, was used for insoles. [9] (#cite_note-Jamesvanstone-9) Western-style clothing [ edit ] Yup'ik Eskimo children learning to sew (western-style) in a U.S. government school in Alaska, sometime between 1900-1930 The Russian colonization of the Americas (/wiki/Russian_colonization_of_the_Americas) by the Russian Empire (/wiki/Russian_Empire) covers the period from 1732 to 1867. As the runs from Siberia (/wiki/Siberia) to America became longer expeditions, the crews established hunting and trading posts (/wiki/Trading_posts) of the Shelikhov-Golikov Company (/wiki/Shelikhov-Golikov_Company) (later formed the basis for the Russian-American Company (/wiki/Russian-American_Company) ). By the late 1790s, these had become permanent settlements of the Russian America (/wiki/Russian_America) (1799-1867). Colonization of Russian America by Russians was very limited. During the years 1799–1867, the number of Russians averaged 550 persons. There were never more than 823 Russians in the colony. Until about 1819, Russian settlement and activity was largely confined to the Aleutian Islands (/wiki/Aleutian_Islands) , the Pribilof Islands (/wiki/Pribilof_Islands) , Kodiak Island (/wiki/Kodiak_Island) , and to scattered coastal locations on the mainland. [87] (#cite_note-Robertdarnoldclaims-87) Approximately half of the fur traders were Russians (/wiki/Russians) such as promyshlenniki (/wiki/Promyshlenniki) from various European parts of the Russian Empire or from Siberia. Russia's sustained presence in Russian Alaska, from the arrival of the first Russians in 1732 until the transfer of the territory into United States (/wiki/Alaska_Purchase) possession, had a profound impact on the region's cultural landscape. [88] (#cite_note-88) Before the arrival of the Russian fur traders (promyshlennikis), caribou and beaver skins were used for traditional clothing but subsequently, the Eskimos were persuaded to sell most furs and substitute manufactured materials. [89] (#cite_note-89) The Russians encouraged the Eskimos to adopt Western-style dress in order to release more furs for trading. [75] (#cite_note-subsistence.adfg.state.ak.us-75) The Russian (/wiki/Russian_language) borrowings or loanwords (/wiki/Loanword) used in Yup’ik language date from the period of the Russian America: malagg'aayaq (Yukon-Kuskokwim Yup'ik) palagg'aayaq (Unaliq-Pastuliq Yup'ik) palagg'aayar (Nunivak Cup'ig) paallaguaq (Egegik Yup'ik) "fur hat with large ear-flaps" from Russian малаха́й (malakháy); esslaapaq ~ ess'laapaq ~ selapaq ~ cillapak "broad-brimmed hat" from Russian шля́па (shlyápa); kaapaq ~ kaapaaq ~ kaupaq ~ kaupaaq "beaded hairnet worn by married Russian Orthodox women" from Russian ка́пор (kápor) " poke bonnet (/wiki/Poke_bonnet) "; kaapcelaaq "primer cap" from Russian ка́псуль (kápsul’); kantiluq "cap with visor" from Russian кондырь (kondýr’); tackaq "woman’s beaded hairnet" perhaps from Russian се́тка (sétka) "net"; lavtak "material for skin-boot soles, the yellowish skin of the bearded seal (maklak) prepared by removing the black outer layer of skin" from Siberian Russian лафта́к (lafták) "dressed hide of sea mammal"; sap’akiq ~ cap’akiq "shoe; manufactured boot" from Russian сапоги́ (sapogí) "shoes"; pasmakiq ~ masmakiq "store-bought shoe" from Russian ба́шмаки (báshmaki) "shoes"; suukiiq ~ cuukiiq "sock" from Russian чулки́ (chulkí); kamliikaq "waterproof jacket used with kayak; parka" from Russian камле́йка (kamléyka); llumarraq ~ lumarraq ~ numarraq "shirt; cloth; dress; nightwear" from Russian руба́ха (rubákha); paltuuk ~ pal’tuuk "coat; zippered parka; jacket" from Russian пальто́ (pal’tó); saaliq "vest" from Russian шаль (shal’) "shawl"; sumpaq "jacket" from Russian шу́ба (shúba); yuupkaaq "slip; petticoat" from Russian ю́бка (yúpka) "skirt"; ciitsaaq, ciitessaaq "lightweight cotton cloth" from Russian си́тец (sítets); tulvaaq, tulvaarraq "heavy cloth; denim" from Russian то́левый "roofing felt". [3] (#cite_note-yupeskdict-3) [90] (#cite_note-90) [91] (#cite_note-91) [92] (#cite_note-92) Today, many Yup'ik have adopted western-style clothing. See also [ edit ] Yupiit Piciryarait Cultural Center (/wiki/Yupiit_Piciryarait_Cultural_Center) Lena Atti (/wiki/Lena_Atti) , a Yup’ik artist expert in weaving grass in the old tradition References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Alaska Native Collections : Parka (E043282) (http://alaska.si.edu/media.asp?id=1071&object_id=568) ^ (#cite_ref-2) Hill; et al. (2020). "Thermal Imaging and Physiological Analysis of Cold-Climate Caribou-Skin Clothing" (https://doi.org/10.14430%2Farctic69909) . Arctic . 73 (1): 40–52. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.14430/arctic69909 (https://doi.org/10.14430%2Farctic69909) . hdl (/wiki/Hdl_(identifier)) : 10464/14849 (https://hdl.handle.net/10464%2F14849) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 214705620 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:214705620) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z Jacobson, Steven A. (2012). Yup'ik Eskimo Dictionary, 2nd edition. Alaska Native Language Center. ^ Jump up to: a b c Elisabeth F. Andrews (1989), The Akulmiut: territorial dimensions of a Yup'ik Eskimo society (http://www.arlis.org/docs/vol1/A/21213382.pdf) . Technical Paper No. 177. Juneau, AK: Alaska Department of Fish and Game Division of Subsistence. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Susan W. Fair (2006), Alaska Native Art: Tradition, Innovation, Continuity (https://books.google.com/books?id=2cTWpk0e12cC&dq=%22atkupiaq%22&pg=PA57) , University of Alaska Press ^ Jump up to: a b Aline J. Cotel, Raymond Golingo, Jill E. Oakes, Rick R. Riewe (2004), " Effect of ancient Inuit fur parka ruffs on facial heat transfer (https://www.int-res.com/articles/cr2004/26/c026p077.pdf) ". Climate Research 26: 77–84 ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u Jill Oakes and Rick Riewe (2007), Alaska Eskimo Footwear (https://books.google.com/books?id=_BAMV8335NkC&dq=%22Yup%27ik%22+%22boots+made&pg=PA106) . University of Alaska Press ^ Jump up to: a b c d Learning Experiences 1 (https://www.anchoragemuseum.org/media/4716/smithsonian_lesson_plans_lr.pdf) . Living Our Cultures, Sharing Our Heritage: The First Peoples of Alaska. Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am James W. VanStone (1989), Nunivak Island Eskimo (Yuit) technology and material culture (https://archive.org/details/nunivakislandesk12vanst) . Chicago: Field Museum of Natural History, 1989. Fieldiana, Anthropology, New Series, No. 12. 108 p. ^ Jump up to: a b c The British Museum: Woman's ground squirrel parka, made by Mrs James Kanuk (https://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_objects/aoa/w/womans_ground_squirrel_parka,.aspx) ^ (#cite_ref-11) Erica Goff (2009), More than garments, traditional Yup'ik parkas tell stories of past (http://juneauempire.com/stories/033009/sta_416312659.shtml) ^ (#cite_ref-12) Esther Ilutsik (2009), " Eleven Years of Implementing Traditional Yup'ik Oral Stories in the Elementary Classroom (http://inuitoralityconference.com/art/Ilutsik.pdf) ." In Collignon B. & Therrien M. (eds). 2009. Orality in the 21st century: Inuit discourse and practices. Proceedings of the 15th Inuit Studies Conference . Paris: INALCO. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Yuungnaqpiallerput : Nunamiutarnek Ungungssinek Piliat = Things made from land animals (http://www.yupikscience.org/8fallhunting/8-3.html) ^ (#cite_ref-14) National Museum of the American Indian : Man's parka (http://www.nmai.si.edu/searchcollections/item.aspx?irn=175741&objtype=Clothing/Garments:%20Outerwear%20%28fitted%29&objid=Man%27s%20parka) ^ Jump up to: a b Yuungnaqpiallerput : Qangananek Piliat = Things made from squirrels (http://www.yupikscience.org/4riversspring/4-3.html) ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Nuniwarmiut Piciryarata Tamaryalkuti : Nunivak Island Cup'ig Language Preliminary Dictionary ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Home" (http://www.kuspuk.org/) . kuspuk.org . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Suomen Museot Online : suoliparka (http://www.suomenmuseotonline.fi/fi/kohde/Suomen+kansallismuseo/VK274%3A?place=alaska&museum=Suomen+kansallismuseo&itemIndex=466) (in Finnish and English) ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Yuungnaqpiallerput : Pissurcuutet Imarpigmi = Tools for Ocean Hunting (http://www.yupikscience.org/3coastspring/3-1b.html) ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Reed, Fran (/wiki/Fran_Reed) (2008). " Embellishments of the Alaska Native gut parka (http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1127&context=tsaconf) ". Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings , Paper 127. ^ Jump up to: a b c Yuungnaqpiallerput : Iqertagnek Piliat = Things made fish skin (http://www.yupikscience.org/5fishcamp/5-2.html) ^ (#cite_ref-22) National Museum of the American Indian : Parka of dog-salmon skin ( (http://www.americanindian.si.edu/searchcollections/item.aspx?irn=104902) qasperrluk ) (http://www.americanindian.si.edu/searchcollections/item.aspx?irn=104902) ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Yuungnaqpiallerput : Yaqulegnek Piliat = Things made from birds (http://www.yupikscience.org/6birds/6-2.html) ^ (#cite_ref-24) Jill Elizabeth Oakes (1991), "Regional variations in bird skin preparation techniques and parka designs". Home Economics Research Journal Home Economics Research Journal 20 (2): 119–132, December 1991 ^ (#cite_ref-25) Alaska Conservation Foundation’s Alaska Native Fund (ANF): Bird Skin Parka Making Project (http://www.kawerak.org/forms/admin/BC%20Grants.pdf) (St. Lawrence Island-style) ^ (#cite_ref-26) Yazar: Robert James Wolfe (2006). Playing with fish and other lessons from the North (https://books.google.com/books?id=fCNg5lNbEbcC&dq=%22made%22+%22bird+Skin+Parka%22&pg=PA113) . Tucson, Arizona : University of Arizona Press. ^ (#cite_ref-27) Alaska Native Collections : Hat (E037904) (http://alaska.si.edu/media.asp?id=1035&object_id=82) ^ (#cite_ref-28) Harry Schelwald Swarth (1934), Birds of Nunivak Island, Alaska (https://sora.unm.edu/sites/default/files/journals/pca/pca_022.pdf) . Cooper Ornithological Club, Pacific Coast Avifauna, no. 22, Los Angeles, California, March 31, 1934 ^ (#cite_ref-29) Calista Corporation : Kotlik (http://www.calistacorp.com/shareholders/village/kotlik#.VFvpy2dOIdU) ^ (#cite_ref-Bright2004_30-0) Bright, William (/wiki/William_Bright) (2004). Native American placenames of the United States . University of Oklahoma Press. p. 237. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8061-3598-4 . Retrieved 14 November 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Alaska Native Collections : Hat (E037904) (http://alaska.si.edu/media.asp?id=1037&object_id=82) ^ (#cite_ref-32) Kacie Miura (2006). East-West Center shows Alaskan artifacts (https://scholarspace.manoa.hawaii.edu/bitstream/handle/10125/18716/061012.pdf?sequence=1) . Ka Leo O Hawaii (/wiki/Ka_Leo_O_Hawaii) October 12, 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-33) Alaska Native Collections : uivqurraq “circular cap” (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=82) ^ (#cite_ref-34) Alaska Native Collections : nasqurrun “dance headdress” (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=220) ^ (#cite_ref-35) Yuungnaqpiallerput : Cauyarnariuq = Time for drumming (http://www.yupikscience.org/11drumming/11a.html) ^ Jump up to: a b c Yuungnaqpiallerput : Niiteqayuluni takvigluni-llu = Hearing well and seeing far (http://www.yupikscience.org/3coastspring/3-2.html) ^ (#cite_ref-37) Alaska Native Collections : ugtarcuun “bentwood hat, conical wooden hat” 90 (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=90) ^ (#cite_ref-38) Alaska Native Collections : ugtarcuun “bentwood hat, conical wooden hat” 315 (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=315) ^ (#cite_ref-39) Alaska Native Collections : chagudax^ “open wooden hat” (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=242) ^ (#cite_ref-40) Alaska Native Collections : elqiaq “bentwood visor” 242 (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=242) ^ (#cite_ref-41) Alaska Native Collections : elqiaq “bentwood visor” 275 (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=275) ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Yuungnaqpiallerput : Canegnek Piliat = Things made from grass (http://www.yupikscience.org/4riversspring/4-3.html) ^ Jump up to: a b Alaska Native Collections: nigaugek “old-style snow goggles made out of wood” 550 (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=550) ^ (#cite_ref-Nig584_44-0) Alaska Native Collections: nigaugek “old-style snow goggles made out of wood” 584 (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=584) ^ Jump up to: a b Alaska Native Collections: nigaugek “old-style snow goggles made out of wood” 559 (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=559) ^ (#cite_ref-46) Alaska Native Collections : arilluuk “pair of fishskin mittens” (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=118) ^ (#cite_ref-Bettykobayashiissenman_47-0) Issenman, Betty Kobayashi (1997). Sinews of Survival: The Living Legacy of Inuit Clothing . Vancouver, B.C.: University of British Columbia Press. p. 54. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7748-0596-X . Retrieved 2014-06-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) Davin L. Holen, Theodore Krieg, Robert Walker, and Hans Nicholson (2005), Harvests and uses of caribou, moose, bears, and Dall sheep by communities of Game Management Units 9B and 17, western Bristol Bay, Alaska, 2001-2002 (http://www.subsistence.adfg.state.ak.us/techpap/tp283.pdf) . Technical Paper No. 283. Division of Subsistence, Alaska Department of Fish & Game, Juneau, Alaska, July 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-49) June Artifact of the Month: Yup’ik caribou hide mukluks (http://museums.alaska.gov/documents/sjm/artifacts/june_2003.pdf) . Sheldon Jackson Museum. June 2003 ^ (#cite_ref-50) Alaska Native Collections : piluguk “pair of skin boots” (http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=119) ^ (#cite_ref-Phyllismorrow_51-0) Phyllis Morrow (1987), Making the best of two worlds: an anthropological approach to the development of bilingual education materials in southwestern Alaska (http://files.eric.ed.gov/fulltext/ED323065.pdf) . ^ Jump up to: a b Harbors and rivers in Alaska, Survey Report, Interim Report No. 5: Southwestern Alaska (http://www.poa.usace.army.mil/Portals/34/docs/civilworks/archive/Harbors&RiversInterimReportNo5SWAlaska1954.pdf) . Prepared by Alaska District, Corps of Engineers, January 20, 1054 ^ (#cite_ref-53) Douglas H. Chadwick, Wolverines in a Warming World (http://www.defenders.org/magazine/spring-2010/wolverines-warming-world) ^ (#cite_ref-54) Three Alaska Native Leaders: Apanuugpak: A Yup'ik Warrior (http://www.echospace.org/articles/261/sections/621.html) ^ (#cite_ref-Fienupriordaneskimoessays_55-0) Fienup-Riordan, Ann (/wiki/Ann_Fienup-Riordan) (1990). Eskimo Essays: Yup'ik Lives and How We See Them (https://books.google.com/books?id=erhrp9-RHiYC&dq=%22Apanuugpak%22&pg=PA128) . New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press. ^ (#cite_ref-56) Sundance: 1986 Directors Lab: Winter Warrior (http://filmguide.sundance.org/film/FN3740/winter_warrior) ^ (#cite_ref-57) Ann Fienup-Riordan (/wiki/Ann_Fienup-Riordan) (1988) "Robert Redford, Apanuugpak, and the Invention of Tradition." American Ethnologist 15 (3): 442-455. ( Jstor (https://www.jstor.org/discover/10.2307/645750?uid=3739192&uid=2129&uid=2&uid=70&uid=4&sid=21105180337953) ) ^ (#cite_ref-Kanaqlak_58-0) George P. Kanaqlak Charles (2009), "Cultural identity through Yupiaq narrative". In Maria Sháa Tláa Williams, eds. The Alaska Native Reader: History, Culture, Politics (https://books.google.com/books?id=1qe5vzMqJW0C&dq=%22Apanuugpak%22&pg=PA60) . Durham: Duke University Press, 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-59) And there was Apanurpaq . . . (http://s3.documentcloud.org/documents/10516/bristol02.pdf) as told by Andy Golia. Bristol Bay Native Corporation 2002 Annual Report. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Yuungnaqpiallerput : Mingeqsarat= Ways of Sewing (http://www.yupikscience.org/10wintervillage/10-2.html) ^ (#cite_ref-61) imnh.isu.edu : Sinew Cordage (http://imnh.isu.edu/exhibits/online/cordagediscoverybox/submenu_1/content_1B_Sinew_temp.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150301005658/http://imnh.isu.edu/exhibits/online/cordagediscoverybox/submenu_1/content_1B_Sinew_temp.htm) March 1, 2015, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-62) Amber Lincoln, with John Goodwin, Pearl Goodwin, Faye Ongtowasruk, Ron Senungetuk, Barbara Weyiouanna (2010). Living With Old Things: Iñupiaq Stories, Bering Strait Histories (http://www.nps.gov/akso/beringia/beringia/library/living-with-old-things.pdf) . Shared Beringian Heritage Program (U.S.), United States National Park Service, Alaska Regional Office. ^ (#cite_ref-63) Jerry Lipka, Evelyn Yanez and Dora Andrew-Ihrke (2006). " A two way process for developing culturally based math: examples from math in a cultural context (https://www.math.auckland.ac.nz/Events/2006/ICEM-3/1.Keynote/LipkaPlenary.doc) ". For Submission to the Third International Conference on Ethnomathematics, New Zealand, February 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-64) Spring, Joel (2008). The Universal Right to Education: Justification, Definition, and Guidelines . Mahwah, New Jersey: Lawrence Erlbaum Associates, Inc. p. 106. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4106-0188-9 . Retrieved 2014-10-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-65) Geneva Gay (/wiki/Geneva_Gay) (2006), " Connections between classroom management and culturally responsive teaching (https://books.google.com/books?id=ce3hAQAAQBAJ&dq=%22Yup%27ik+clothing%22&pg=PA359) ". In Carolyn M. Evertson and Carol S. Weinstein (eds), Handbook of Classroom Management: research, practice, and contemporary issues . Mahwah, New Jersey: Lawrence Erlbaum Associates, Inc. (p.359) ^ (#cite_ref-66) Monica Wong and Jerry Lipka (2011). " Adapting assessment instruments for an Alaskan context (http://www.aamt.edu.au/content/download/17625/234971/file/maths-trad-new-pracs-wong.pdf) ". Mathematics: Traditions and [New] Practices . Proceedings of the AAMT–MERGA conference held in Alice Springs, 3–7 July 2011. Australia ^ (#cite_ref-67) Jerry Lipka and Dora Andrew-Ihrke (2009). " Ethnomathematics applied to classrooms in Alaska: Math in a cultural context (https://www.uaf.edu/mcc/award-recognition-and-oth/Ethnomathematics-Applied-to-Classrooms-in-Alaska-Math-in-a-Cultural-Context.pdf) ". NASGEm Newsletter , 3(1): 8–10. ^ Jump up to: a b Fienup-Riordan, Ann (/wiki/Ann_Fienup-Riordan) ; Jimmie, Fredda; Rearden, Alice. (2007). Yuungnaqpiallerput/The Way We Genuinely Live: Masterworks of Yup'ik Science and Survival . University of Washington Press. ^ (#cite_ref-69) Wildlife Action Plan Section IIIB: Alaska's 32 Ecoregions (http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=ecosystems.ecoregions) by Alaska Department of Fish and Game ^ (#cite_ref-70) "Ice Seal Research: Movements and Habitat Use Studies" (http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=marinemammalprogram.icesealmovements) . Alaska Department of Fish and Game . State of Alaska . Retrieved 18 November 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Oakes, Jill. "Inuit and Arctic Dress" (https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-around-world/inuit-arctic-dress) . Beauty and Fashion . LoveToKnow, Corp . Retrieved 18 November 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-72) Cook, Chad M. (2013). "Ataam Taikina: traditional knowledge and conservation ethics in the Yukon River Delta, Alaska" (https://scholarworks.alaska.edu/handle/11122/4483) . ScholarWorks@UA . University of Alaska Fairbanks. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Georgette, Susan; Coffing, Michael; Scott, Cheryl; Utermohle, Charles (April 1998). "The Subsistence History of Seals and Sea Lions by Alaska Natives in the Norton Sound-Bering Strait Region, Alaska, 1996-97: Technical Paper No. 242" (https://web.archive.org/web/20141129022454/http://www.arlis.org/docs/vol1/A/49804239.pdf) (PDF) . Alaska Department of Fish and Game . Juneau, Alaska: Division of Subsistence. Archived from the original (http://www.arlis.org/docs/vol1/A/49804239.pdf) (PDF) on 29 November 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-74) Fall, James A.; Chythlook, Molly; Schichnes, Janet; Sinnott, Rick (October 1991). Walrus Hunting at Togiak, Bristol Bay, Southwest Alaska: Technical Paper No. 212 (http://www.subsistence.adfg.state.ak.us/techpap/tp212.pdf) . Alaska Department of Fish and Game. Juneau, Alaska: Division of Subsistence. ^ Jump up to: a b Janet Schichnes and Molly Chythlook (1988), Use of fish and wildlife in Manokotak, Alaska (http://www.subsistence.adfg.state.ak.us/techpap/tp152.pdf) . Technical Paper No. 152, Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Division of Subsistence, Dillingham, Alaska, December, 1988 (p. 13) ^ (#cite_ref-caribou_76-0) Alaska Department of Fish and Game Caribou ( (http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=caribou.main) Rangifer tarandus granti ) (http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=caribou.main) 2005-5-23. Retrieved on November 15, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-77) University of Alaska Fairbanks (UAF) : Reindeer … Caribou … What’s the Difference? (http://uafcornerstone.net/news/featured/04/reindeer/difference.html) ^ (#cite_ref-78) M. A. Cronin, L. Renecker, B. J. Pierson, and J. C. Patton (1995), "Genetic variation in domestic reindeer and wild caribou in Alaska". Animal Genetics 26 (6): 427-34, December 1995 ^ (#cite_ref-79) Marian Romano and Melanie Trost (2003), Mt. McKinley Meat & Sausage Company, Review & Recommendations (http://dnr.alaska.gov/ag/MMMS/MMMSReviewandRecommendationsFinalReport120103.pdf) , final report, State of Alaska, Department of Natural Resources, Division of Agriculture. December 1, 2003. ^ (#cite_ref-80) University of Alaska Fairbanks (UAF) : Traditional Uses of Reindeer (http://uafcornerstone.net/news/featured/04/reindeer/traditional.html) ^ (#cite_ref-FWS_81-0) "Muskox, (Ovibos moschatus) US Fish & Wildlife Service" (https://www.fws.gov/species/species_accounts/bio_musk.html) . Fws.gov . Retrieved 2011-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-82) Chuck Eisenhower, Nunivak musk ox with bow and arrow (http://www.outdoorsdirectory.com/magazine/alaska_musk_ox_hunt.htm) ^ (#cite_ref-Coffing2001_83-0) Michael W. Coffing, Louis Brown, Gretchen Jennings and Charles J. Utermohle (2001), The Subsistence Harvest and Use of Wild Resources in Akiachak, Alaska, 1998 (http://www.arlis.org/docs/vol1/A/49804278.pdf) . Technical Paper No. 258, Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Division of Subsistence, Juneau, Alaska, November, 2001 ^ (#cite_ref-Wheeleralixdriftwood_84-0) Robert Wheeler and Claire Alix (2004), Economic and cultural significance of driftwood in coastal communities of Southwest Alaska . ^ Jump up to: a b c Leslie A. Viereck and Elbert L. Little, Jr. (1975), Atlas of United States Trees, Volume 2. Alaska Trees and Common Shrubs (https://books.google.com/books?id=pXToo6L4QWEC&q=%22Rubus+parviflorus%22+kus&pg=PA13) , United States Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Miscellaneous Publication no. 1293, Washington, D.C., March 1975 ^ Jump up to: a b A Guide to the Ethnobotany of the Yukon-Kuskokwim Region (http://www.uaf.edu/anlc/resources/yk_ethnobotany/YK_Ethnobotany.pdf) . Alaska Native Language Center ^ (#cite_ref-Robertdarnoldclaims_87-0) Robert D. rnold (1978), Alaska Native Land Claims (http://www.uaa.alaska.edu/cafe/upload/Arnold-ANCS-1971-history.pdf) . The Alaska Native Foundation, Anchorage, Alaska. 2nd edition. ^ (#cite_ref-88) Jessica Kantarovich (2012), The linguistic legacy of Russians in Alaska: Russian contact and linguistic variation in Alaska, with special attention to Ninilchik Russian . ^ (#cite_ref-89) Janet Schichnes and Molly Chythlook (1991), Contemporary use of fish and wildlife in Ekwok, Koliganek, and New Stuyahok, Alaska (http://www.arlis.org/docs/vol1/A/25794521.pdf) . Technical Paper No. 185, Alaska Department of Fish and Game Division of Subsistence, Juneau, Alaska, October, 1991 ^ (#cite_ref-90) David A Peterson (1991), Russian loan words in Central Alaskan Yup'ik (https://scholarworks.alaska.edu/bitstream/handle/11122/1388/PetersonD.pdf?sequence=3) . Fairbanks, Alaska, April 1991. ^ (#cite_ref-91) Chad L. Thompson (1980), Russian loan words in Alaska Native languages (http://www.uaf.edu/anla/collections/search/resultDetail.xml?id=G980T1980) . Unpublished. Fairbanks: Alaska Native Language Center. ^ (#cite_ref-92) Louis L. Hammerich (1954), " The Russian stratum in Alaskan Eskimo (https://www.uaf.edu/anla/collections/search/resultDetail.xml?resource=6557&sessionId=&searchId=) ". Slavic Word 10(4): 402-528. 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African-American dressmaker Willie Otey Kay Kay in 1910 Born Willie Virginia Otey March 17, 1894 Raleigh, North Carolina (/wiki/Raleigh,_North_Carolina) , U.S. Died September 25, 1992 ( 1992-09-26 ) (aged 98) Raleigh, North Carolina, U.S. Resting place New Hope Cemetery Education Shaw University (/wiki/Shaw_University) Occupation dressmaker Spouse John Walcott Kay (1915–1927; his death) Children 7 (including June Kay Campbell (/wiki/June_Kay_Campbell) ) Parent(s) Henry Gaston Otey Josephine Alston Relatives Bill Campbell (/wiki/Bill_Campbell_(mayor)) (grandson) Ralph Campbell Jr. (/wiki/Ralph_Campbell_Jr.) (grandson) Willie Virginia Otey Kay (March 17, 1894 – September 25, 1992) was an African-American dressmaker. She was known for making wedding dresses and debutante gowns for almost sixty years, becoming one of the most sought-after designers for women's formalwear in North Carolina. Kay began her dressmaking (/wiki/Dressmaker) business during the Jim Crow Era (/wiki/Jim_Crow_Era) , catering to both black and white clientele. She dressed young women being presented to society (/wiki/Debutante) at the all-white North Carolina Debutante Ball (/wiki/North_Carolina_Debutante_Ball) and the all-black Alpha Kappa Alpha (/wiki/Alpha_Kappa_Alpha) Debutante Ball, often attending the balls as a guest. In 1935, McCall's (/wiki/McCall%27s) did a story on Kay and her work. In 1951, one of Kay's debutante gowns was featured on the cover of Life (/wiki/Life_(magazine)) . Her work was also featured in The News & Observer (/wiki/The_News_%26_Observer) and, in 2016, the North Carolina Museum of History (/wiki/North_Carolina_Museum_of_History) presented an exhibit on her life. Kay was the mother of civil rights activist June Kay Campbell (/wiki/June_Kay_Campbell) and the grandmother of politicians Ralph Campbell Jr. (/wiki/Ralph_Campbell_Jr.) and Bill Campbell (/wiki/Bill_Campbell_(mayor)) . In 2016, the North Carolina Museum of History (/wiki/North_Carolina_Museum_of_History) opened an exhibit on Kay titled Made Especially for You by Willie Kay . Her work has also been exhibited at St. Augustine's University (/wiki/St._Augustine%27s_University_(North_Carolina)) and the National Afro-American Museum and Cultural Center (/wiki/National_Afro-American_Museum_and_Cultural_Center) . Early life [ edit ] Kay was born Willie Virginia Otey on March 17, 1894, in Raleigh (/wiki/Raleigh) to Henry Gaston Otey and Josephine Alston Otey. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) She was the eldest of eight children and grew up in the family home on Cabarrus Street, near downtown Raleigh's African-American Business District (/wiki/East_Hargett_Street_(Raleigh,_North_Carolina)) . [2] (#cite_note-thepilot-2) Her father was a prominent African-American businessman who owned an upscale barbershop inside the Yarborough House Hotel on Fayetteville Street (/wiki/Fayetteville_Street_(Raleigh)) . [3] (#cite_note-restoration-3) [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) Her father's clients were white, and often political and business leaders in the state's capitol. Due to this, Kay grew up in a social and political environment. [4] (#cite_note-warren-4) Kay was first taught how to sew by her grandmother and mother, who were both seamstresses. [5] (#cite_note-shaw-5) She majored in home economics (/wiki/Home_economics) at Shaw University (/wiki/Shaw_University) , graduating in 1912. [5] (#cite_note-shaw-5) While a student at Shaw, Kay won first prize in the school's dressmaking competition. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) Career [ edit ] Kay began working as a dressmaker to support her children after the death of her husband. [6] (#cite_note-6) She set up shop as a seamstress at her family's house, so that she could work and watch after her children. She was helped by her sisters, Mildred Otey Taylor, Chloe Otey Jervay Laws, Josephine Otey Hayes, and Elizabeth Otey, who all became successful dressmakers. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) [3] (#cite_note-restoration-3) Kay's father advertised her business to his clients at the barber shop. [2] (#cite_note-thepilot-2) Shortly after, wives and daughters of Raleigh's elite families began commissioning dresses. Despite racial segregation (/wiki/Racial_segregation_in_the_United_States) in North Carolina throughout the Jim Crow Era (/wiki/Jim_Crow_Era) , Kay designed commissions for black and white clients. [7] (#cite_note-archive-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) She was known for dressing debutantes (/wiki/Debutantes) who were to be presented at either the all-black Alpha Kappa Alpha (/wiki/Alpha_Kappa_Alpha) Debutante Ball or the all-white North Carolina Debutante Ball (/wiki/North_Carolina_Debutante_Ball) and received tickets to attend both events. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) [4] (#cite_note-warren-4) Kay also designed the debutante gowns for her own granddaughters. [9] (#cite_note-9) Kay was known to later convert debutante dresses into wedding dresses for clients. [7] (#cite_note-archive-7) Some of her more prominent clients included the wives and daughters of North Carolina governors and senators, and the suffragist Addie Worth Bagley Daniels (/wiki/Addie_Worth_Bagley_Daniels) , who was the wife of newspaper publisher Josephus Daniels (/wiki/Josephus_Daniels) . [10] (#cite_note-10) Kay made christening gowns, debutante dresses, party dresses, women's evening wear, wedding dresses, clerical vestments, and bridesmaid dresses. [11] (#cite_note-star-11) Kay, like the other women in her family, did not use commercial patterns. [3] (#cite_note-restoration-3) Instead, she preferred the sewing methods she had learned from family members over the techniques she studied at Shaw. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) She sketched her dresses first, then made muslin or paper mock-ups for client fittings. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) She used a Singer (/wiki/Singer_Corporation) sewing machine for stitching seams but did detailing by hand. Her sister, Lizzie, created lace appliqués and beadwork for her. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) She worked with silk, lace, and satin. [7] (#cite_note-archive-7) In 1935, McCall's (/wiki/McCall%27s) did a story on Kay and her work. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) In 1951, one of Kay's debutante gowns was featured on the cover of Life (/wiki/Life_(magazine)) . [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) [5] (#cite_note-shaw-5) Her work was also featured in The News & Observer (/wiki/The_News_%26_Observer) . [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) Personal life [ edit ] While attending Shaw University, Kay met John Walcott Kay, a student at the university's Leonard Medical School (/wiki/Leonard_Hall_(Shaw_University)) from Weldon (/wiki/Weldon,_North_Carolina) . [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) [3] (#cite_note-restoration-3) They married at St. Ambrose Episcopal Church in Raleigh in 1915 and moved to Wilmington (/wiki/Wilmington,_North_Carolina) , where her husband established his medical practice and, along with six other physicians, established the Community Hospital for Blacks. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) The Kays had seven children: [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) Josephine Jessie Kay (1916–1918) Inez Otey Kay White (1918–1986) Gloria Clementine Kay Greene (1919–2014) Willie Virginia Kay (1921–1922) Constance Taylor Kay Journigan Wilcox (1922–1981) John Walcott Kay II (1923–1990) June Elizabeth Kay Campbell (/wiki/June_Kay_Campbell) (1925–2004) Kay's husband died on March 6, 1927, following a surgery to treat an abdominal hernia. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) After her husband's death, Kay relocated the family to Raleigh and took up residence in her childhood home. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) She was a devout Episcopalian (/wiki/Episcopalian) , and was a parishioner at St. Ambrose Church. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) Her youngest daughter, June, married civil rights activist Ralph Campbell Sr. (/wiki/Ralph_Campbell_Sr.) Kay is the grandmother of Ralph Campbell Jr. (/wiki/Ralph_Campbell_Jr.) , who served as North Carolina State Auditor (/wiki/North_Carolina_State_Auditor) , and of Bill Campbell (/wiki/Bill_Campbell_(mayor)) , who served as Mayor of Atlanta (/wiki/List_of_mayors_of_Atlanta) . [11] (#cite_note-star-11) Her home became a refuge for her grandchildren when their home was endangered by bomb threats by those that opposed the family's civil rights work. [7] (#cite_note-archive-7) Legacy [ edit ] In 2016, the North Carolina Museum of History (/wiki/North_Carolina_Museum_of_History) opened an exhibit on Kay and her work, titled Made Especially for You by Willie Kay . [12] (#cite_note-carolinabest-12) The exhibit included a dress worn by Doris Doscher (/wiki/Doris_Doscher) to her son's wedding at First Baptist Church in Raleigh (/wiki/First_Baptist_Church_(Raleigh,_North_Carolina)) ; a wedding gown and veil for Carolyn Dorcas Maynor; a wedding dress worn by Carolyn Cheek Palmer and later by Cathryn Cheek Zevenhuizen, an evening gown for the debutante Louise Wooten; an evening gown and overbodice worn by Kay's daughter, June, at the debut of June's daughter, Mildred Campbell; and her grandson Ralph's christening enesemble. [12] (#cite_note-carolinabest-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) The exhibit ran from January to September. [3] (#cite_note-restoration-3) More of Kay's designs are on display at St. Augustine's University (/wiki/St._Augustine%27s_University_(North_Carolina)) in Raleigh and the National Afro-American Museum and Cultural Center (/wiki/National_Afro-American_Museum_and_Cultural_Center) in Ohio. [11] (#cite_note-star-11) A stained glass window at St. Ambrose Episcopal Church is dedicated to Kay. [1] (#cite_note-ncpedia-1) References [ edit ] ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r "Kay, Willie Virginia Otey \| NCpedia" (https://www.ncpedia.org/kay-willie-virginia-otey) . www.ncpedia.org . ^ a b "Woman Behind the Gowns: Exhibit Honors Raleigh Designer" (https://www.thepilot.com/news/features/woman-behind-the-gowns-exhibit-honors-raleigh-designer/article_455d934e-d587-11e5-936e-e34de03dfddb.html) . The Pilot Newspaper . 17 February 2016. ^ a b c d e "Exquisite gowns part of new exhibit - Restoration NewsMedia" (https://restorationnewsmedia.com/articles/wilsontimes/exquisite-gowns-part-of-new-exhibit/) . Restoration NewsMedia - . January 6, 2016. ^ a b "Museum exhibit highlights creations of African-American dressmaker" (https://www.warrenrecord.com/arts_entertainment/article_f8d92f20-ba00-11e5-82bd-275d54ee589b.html) . The Warren Record . 13 January 2016. ^ a b c "Sewing Dreams into Dresses - Willie Otey Kay \| Shaw University" (https://www.shawu.edu/Sewing_Dreams_into_Dresses.aspx) . www.shawu.edu . ^ (#cite_ref-6) nancy.mclaughlin@greensboro.com, Nancy McLaughlin (9 October 2021). "Uncommon thread: Fashion designer Willie Kay was an artist. Cloth was 'her medium.' (https://greensboro.com/news/local_news/uncommon-thread-fashion-designer-willie-kay-was-an-artist-cloth-was-her-medium/article_6facd104-2555-11ec-bdc4-b3cc3e1c1fea.html) " (https://greensboro.com/news/local_news/uncommon-thread-fashion-designer-willie-kay-was-an-artist-cloth-was-her-medium/article_6facd104-2555-11ec-bdc4-b3cc3e1c1fea.html) . Greensboro News and Record . ^ a b c d "Woven of dignity: Black seamstress' legacy on display" (https://archive.sltrib.com/article.php?id=3527275&itype=CMSID) . The Salt Lake Tribune . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "A Dress Made Just For You" (https://www.wunc.org/arts-culture/2016-07-15/a-dress-made-just-for-you) . WUNC . July 15, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Photograph of bride with parents" (https://madeespeciallyforyoubytheoteysisters.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/r_4354_7a.jpg) . Made Especially for You . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Made Especially for You by Willie Kay - Interview with Eddie Campbell" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuqL0ELnufU) – via www.youtube.com. ^ a b c Observer, Samantha Thompson Smith, The (Raleigh) News &. "Handcrafted dresses earned creator fame" (https://www.starnewsonline.com/story/news/2006/12/25/handcrafted-dresses-earned-creator-fame/30287438007/) . Wilmington Star-News . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ a b "Made Especially for You by Willie Kay at NC Museum of History" (http://www.carolinasbest.com/2016/01/made-especially-for-you-by-willie-kay.html) . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Originally made for Carolyn Cheek Palmer in 1955, Cathryn Cheek Zevenhuizen wore this dress to her wedding in 1957. On a European tour it was recommended by the two sisters' brother that they visit a place in Italy to purchase Venetian lace to make a veil for Palmer's impending wedding. The sisters were each given a beautiful handkerchief with the purchase. When they met with Kay to discuss the making of the wedding dress she recommended using a design from the lace as a beading motif on the front of the gown. She also suggested using the handkerchiefs around the neckline of the dress. Consequently, the has been worn again in seven other family weddings. Courtesy of Mrs. Cathryn Cheek Zevenhuizen" (https://madeespeciallyforyou.org/zevenhuizen-1955-additional/wedding-dress-11/) . August 26, 2016. 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Willie_Otey_Kay&oldid=1179624976 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Willie_Otey_Kay&oldid=1179624976) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1894 births (/wiki/Category:1894_births) 1992 deaths (/wiki/Category:1992_deaths) 20th-century African-American women (/wiki/Category:20th-century_African-American_women) 20th-century American Episcopalians (/wiki/Category:20th-century_American_Episcopalians) 20th-century African-American businesspeople (/wiki/Category:20th-century_African-American_businesspeople) 20th-century American businesspeople (/wiki/Category:20th-century_American_businesspeople) 20th-century American businesswomen (/wiki/Category:20th-century_American_businesswomen) African-American Episcopalians (/wiki/Category:African-American_Episcopalians) African-American fashion designers (/wiki/Category:African-American_fashion_designers) African-American history in Raleigh, North Carolina (/wiki/Category:African-American_history_in_Raleigh,_North_Carolina) African-American women in business (/wiki/Category:African-American_women_in_business) American tailors (/wiki/Category:American_tailors) American women fashion designers (/wiki/Category:American_women_fashion_designers) Episcopalians from North Carolina (/wiki/Category:Episcopalians_from_North_Carolina) People from Raleigh, North Carolina (/wiki/Category:People_from_Raleigh,_North_Carolina) Shaw University alumni (/wiki/Category:Shaw_University_alumni) Wedding dress designers (/wiki/Category:Wedding_dress_designers) Hidden categories: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Pages using infobox person with multiple parents (/wiki/Category:Pages_using_infobox_person_with_multiple_parents) Articles with hCards (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hCards)
See also: Category:Crowns (headgear) (/wiki/Category:Crowns_(headgear)) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6bf4868c9d‐6jdkf Cached time: 20240709084700 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.035 seconds Real time usage: 0.047 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 24/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 335/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 7/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 326/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.015/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 626344/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 42.205 1 -total 100.00% 42.205 1 Template:Catrel 12.96% 5.471 1 Template:Category_see_also/Category_pair_check Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:38691592-0!canonical and timestamp 20240709084700 and revision id 768335618. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 4 subcategories, out of 4 total. B Bronze Age gold hats (/wiki/Category:Bronze_Age_gold_hats) ‎ (6 P) C Individual crowns (/wiki/Category:Individual_crowns) ‎ (3 C, 99 P) I Individual helmets (/wiki/Category:Individual_helmets) ‎ (40 P) P Papal tiaras (/wiki/Category:Papal_tiaras) ‎ (4 P) Pages in category "Individual hats" The following 2 pages are in this category, out of 2 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . D Deep Blue Sea (hat) (/wiki/Deep_Blue_Sea_(hat)) O Oddjob's hat (/wiki/Oddjob%27s_hat) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Individual_hats&oldid=768335618 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Individual_hats&oldid=768335618) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Hats (/wiki/Category:Hats) Individual garments (/wiki/Category:Individual_garments)
Traditional Norwegian sweater Lusekofte cardigan (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) . Detail of lusekofte pattern. The lusekofte ( Norwegian: [ˈlʉ̀ːsəˌkɔftə] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Norwegian) , lice (/wiki/Louse) jacket (/wiki/Jacket) ), also called the Setesdalsgenser ( Setesdal (/wiki/Setesdal) sweater ) is a traditional Norwegian (/wiki/Norway) sweater (/wiki/Sweater) , dating from the 19th century. The original sweater features a black and white design, the name referring to the isolated black stitches. [1] (#cite_note-snl-1) They may also feature selburose (/wiki/Selburose) designs. In recent times additional color is sometimes given to this black and white sweater by woven ribbons or bands of black woolen fabric embroidered (/wiki/Embroidery) in the type of colorful designs also found in the bunads (/wiki/Bunad) and in rosemaling (/wiki/Rosemaling) around the neck and along the front opening. These front opening are usually closed by a row of pewter (/wiki/Pewter) or silver (/wiki/Silver) clasps (/wiki/Wrist_clasp) . After the lusekofte was discovered by tourists in the 1920s, it became very popular and today they are made in many different patterns and colours [1] (#cite_note-snl-1) in addition to the traditional Setesdal sweater. The lusekofte is casual attire, traditionally mostly worn by men. See also [ edit ] Mariusgenser (/wiki/Mariusgenser) Lopapeysa (/wiki/Lopapeysa) Intarsia (/wiki/Intarsia_(knitting)) References [ edit ] ^ a b Anne Kjellberg: lusekofte (http://snl.no/lusekofte) Store Norske Leksikon, retrieved 30 March, 2013 (in Norwegian) External links [ edit ] Media related to Lusekofte (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lusekofte) at Wikimedia Commons Lusekofte pictures: [1] (http://knititch.blogspot.com/2007/07/lusekoftemania.html) [2] (http://knititch.blogspot.com/2007/07/lusekofte-2.html) Setesdalsgenser pictures and instructions: [3] (https://web.archive.org/web/20071111054132/http://heleneh.sprayblogg.no/190505071643_setesdalmonteringsleksjon.html) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐568rk Cached time: 20240719071935 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.171 seconds Real time usage: 0.514 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 359/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 3091/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 589/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 11/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 1901/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.108/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 14756814/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 248.990 1 -total 45.35% 112.921 1 Template:IPA-no 44.66% 111.207 1 Template:IPA 27.16% 67.621 1 Template:Short_description 19.85% 49.420 1 Template:Commonscat-inline 18.73% 46.628 1 Template:Sister-inline 16.16% 40.240 2 Template:Pagetype 6.73% 16.750 3 Template:Main_other 6.27% 15.612 1 Template:Reflist 6.00% 14.949 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:11816898-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719071935 and revision id 1149059698. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lusekofte&oldid=1149059698 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lusekofte&oldid=1149059698) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Norwegian clothing (/wiki/Category:Norwegian_clothing) Knitted garments (/wiki/Category:Knitted_garments) Sweaters (/wiki/Category:Sweaters) Hidden categories: Articles with Norwegian-language sources (no) (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_Norwegian-language_sources_(no)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Pages with Norwegian IPA (/wiki/Category:Pages_with_Norwegian_IPA) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata)
Canadian fashion designer Jeremy Laing Born 1979 Peterborough (/wiki/Peterborough,_Ontario) , Ontario (/wiki/Ontario) [1] (#cite_note-CTV_171011-1) Occupation Fashion designer Notable credit(s) ANDAM (/wiki/ANDAM) fashion award finalist, 2011 [2] (#cite_note-Modem-2) Website www (http://www.jeremylaing.com/) .jeremylaing (http://www.jeremylaing.com/) .com (http://www.jeremylaing.com/) Jeremy Laing is a Canadian fashion designer based in Toronto (/wiki/Toronto) , Ontario (/wiki/Ontario) who launched his eponymous brand in 2005. Beginning with a low-key show during New York Fashion Week (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) , he has established a reputation for sharp tailoring, geometric construction and draping and layering techniques. [3] (#cite_note-NY_Mag_profile-3) [4] (#cite_note-AFD_Eceiza-4) Early life and career [ edit ] Born in Peterborough (/wiki/Peterborough,_Ontario) , Ontario (/wiki/Ontario) , Laing grew up on an army base in Germany (/wiki/Germany) . [1] (#cite_note-CTV_171011-1) [2] (#cite_note-Modem-2) He developed his skills after watching his mother sew and began making clothes for friends and family as a young teenager, also learning how to create his own patterns (/wiki/Pattern_(sewing)) . [5] (#cite_note-Elle-5) [6] (#cite_note-Dossier_Lee-6) [7] (#cite_note-CAS-7) He won a scholarship to study fashion at Ryerson University (/wiki/Ryerson_University) , Toronto, also participating in the university's exchange programme and spending time at University of Westminster (/wiki/University_of_Westminster) . London, before graduating in 2002. [7] (#cite_note-CAS-7) Laing worked for three years with Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) . [8] (#cite_note-Walrus_Johnson-8) [7] (#cite_note-CAS-7) He subsequently worked as an assistant to Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) , who he has described as being among his fashion mentors while he was growing up. After that, he freelanced for both McQueen and other fashion designers – he created showpiece items for five of McQueen's collections. [5] (#cite_note-Elle-5) [7] (#cite_note-CAS-7) Eponymous brand [ edit ] Although Laing has said he originally envisaged working with an established fashion brand, he eventually decided to go solo, establishing a company with a schoolfriend and launching his first collection in 2005. [5] (#cite_note-Elle-5) [7] (#cite_note-CAS-7) This first low key showing, described as a "petit debut", was at A/W2005 New York Fashion Week. [9] (#cite_note-TS_Delap-9) A relative unknown outside Canada, he showed his collection away from the main show area and invited people along. He soon attracted coverage in media sources such as The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) and has now become a fixture at New York shows, as well as showing at Toronto Fashion Week (/wiki/Toronto_Fashion_Week) . [8] (#cite_note-Walrus_Johnson-8) [10] (#cite_note-Nat_Post_Atkinson-10) His studio remains in the Toronto neighbourhood of Parkdale (/wiki/Parkdale,_Toronto) , with some production at Scarborough (/wiki/Scarborough,_Toronto) . [9] (#cite_note-TS_Delap-9) Speaking of his career path, he noted that many young designers attempt to reinvent themselves every season which he believes is a mistake, adding: "I want people to collect my pieces. I don’t make disposable fashion. It should last". [9] (#cite_note-TS_Delap-9) Brand hallmarks [ edit ] Laing is known for his draping, sharp tailoring and boxy, often layered silhouettes. Signature pieces include T-shaped dresses and oversized trench coats (/wiki/Trench_coat) . [9] (#cite_note-TS_Delap-9) [11] (#cite_note-Style.com_Sherman-11) [12] (#cite_note-ADED_090911-12) While his palette is generally muted, he includes showpiece artist-commissioned textiles, some sourced from Canadian designers. [5] (#cite_note-Elle-5) [12] (#cite_note-ADED_090911-12) In 2011, he introduced menswear, plus a range of shoes produced in collaboration with LD Tuttle. [12] (#cite_note-ADED_090911-12) References [ edit ] ^ a b CTVNews.ca Staff (17 October 2011). "Canadian designers to shine at LG Fashion Week" (http://www.ctvnews.ca/canadian-designers-to-shine-at-lg-fashion-week-1.712770) . CTV News . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ a b biography. "Jeremy Laing" (http://www.modemonline.com/fashion/mini-web-sites/fashion-brands/references/jeremylaing) . modemonline.com . MODEM . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-NY_Mag_profile_3-0) "Jeremy Laing" (http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/designers/jeremy-laing/) . New York Magazine. 2014 . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-AFD_Eceiza_4-0) Eceiza, Laura (2010). Atlas of Fashion Designers (2nd ed.). Beverly MA: Rockport Publications. p. 279. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1592536610 . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ a b c d staff (2014). "Jeremy Laing" (http://www.elle.com/fashion/designers/jeremy-laing/) . Elle . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Dossier_Lee_6-0) Lee, Deanne (May 19, 2009). "A few words with Jeremy Laing" (http://dossierjournal.com/style/fashion/a-few-words-with-jeremy-laing/) . Dossier . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ a b c d e Canadian Art School (17 January 2012). "Jeremy Laing, fashion designer" (http://www.canadianart.ca/career_profiles/2012/01/17/jeremy-laing-fashion-designer/) . Canadian Art . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ a b Johnson, Jessica. "The Canadian School" (http://thewalrus.ca/the-canadian-school/) . No. September 2010. The Walrus . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ a b c d Delap, Leanne (24 March 2011). "Delap: Jeremy Laing aims for the moon" (https://www.thestar.com/life/fashion_style/2011/03/24/delap_jeremy_laing_aims_for_the_moon.html) . Toronto Star . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Nat_Post_Atkinson_10-0) Atkinson, Nathalie (26 March 2013). "Toronto Fashion Week: Our style editor's three-word reviews of 24 collections, from Jeremy Laing to Rudsak" (https://nationalpost.com/tag/jean-pierre-braganza/) . Retrieved 27 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Style.com_Sherman_11-0) Sherman, Lauren (8 September 2013). "Spring 2014 Ready to Wear: Jeremy Laing" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140803083635/http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-JLAING) . Style.com. Archived from the original (http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-JLAING/) on 3 August 2014 . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . ^ a b c staff (9 September 2013). "Jeremy Laing" (http://www.alldayeveryday.com/articles/jeremy-laing) . Alldayeveryday . Retrieved 28 July 2014 . External links [ edit ] Homepage (http://www.jeremylaing.com/) Jeremy Laing collections at (https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/ready-to-wear/jeremy-laing) Vogue NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.eqiad.main‐d67bc64bd‐smk7h Cached time: 20240717010428 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.387 seconds Real time usage: 0.512 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2043/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 22429/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1460/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 11/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 48136/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.225/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6196148/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 481.931 1 -total 37.89% 182.613 1 Template:Reflist 36.27% 174.774 1 Template:Infobox_person 28.56% 137.631 10 Template:Cite_news 16.01% 77.171 1 Template:Short_description 8.65% 41.707 2 Template:Pagetype 8.63% 41.579 16 Template:Main_other 8.41% 40.532 1 Template:Wikidata_image 6.82% 32.846 19 Template:Pluralize_from_text 6.07% 29.248 1 Template:Authority_control Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:43413794-0!canonical and timestamp 20240717010428 and revision id 1196324827. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jeremy_Laing&oldid=1196324827 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jeremy_Laing&oldid=1196324827) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Canadian fashion designers (/wiki/Category:Canadian_fashion_designers) 1980 births (/wiki/Category:1980_births) People from Toronto (/wiki/Category:People_from_Toronto) People from Peterborough, Ontario (/wiki/Category:People_from_Peterborough,_Ontario) Toronto Metropolitan University alumni (/wiki/Category:Toronto_Metropolitan_University_alumni) Alumni of the University of Westminster (/wiki/Category:Alumni_of_the_University_of_Westminster) Living people (/wiki/Category:Living_people) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Pages using infobox person with multiple credits (/wiki/Category:Pages_using_infobox_person_with_multiple_credits) Articles with hCards (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hCards)
French actress and model (1934–1986) Marie-Hélène Arnaud Arnaud modelling a Chanel suit, 1958 Born Marie-Hélène Françoise Arnaud ( 1934-09-24 ) 24 September 1934 Montmorency, Val-d'Oise (/wiki/Montmorency,_Val-d%27Oise) , France Died 6 October 1986 (1986-10-06) (aged 52) Paris, France Burial place Monchy-Humières (/wiki/Monchy-Humi%C3%A8res) , France Occupation(s) Model (/wiki/House_model) , actress (/wiki/Actor) Marie-Hélène Françoise Arnaud (24 September 1934 – 6 October 1986) was a French model and actress. Working as a house model (/wiki/House_model) for the French fashion house Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) , she was the "face of Chanel" in the 1950s; she also developed a second career as an actress. Life [ edit ] Arnaud was born on 24 September 1934 in Montmorency (/wiki/Montmorency,_Val-d%27Oise) in the northern suburbs of Paris. During her time as a model and actress she had high-profile relationships with actor Robert Hossein (/wiki/Robert_Hossein) [1] (#cite_note-Liaut-1) and film producer Sam Spiegel (/wiki/Sam_Spiegel) , [2] (#cite_note-fraz1-2) and was linked with French politician Georges Pompidou (/wiki/Georges_Pompidou) and writer and politician André Malraux (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Malraux) . [2] (#cite_note-fraz1-2) She was found dead in her bath on 6 October 1986 in Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France, with the cause of death unknown, and was buried in Monchy-Humières (/wiki/Monchy-Humi%C3%A8res) , near Estrées-Saint-Denis (/wiki/Estr%C3%A9es-Saint-Denis) . [3] (#cite_note-Paris-3) Modelling [ edit ] Chanel [ edit ] The French designer Coco Chanel (/wiki/Coco_Chanel) launched her first post-war collection at her rue Cambon showroom in Paris on 5 February 1954. For the show she approached Marie-Hélène de Rothschild (/wiki/Marie-H%C3%A9l%C3%A8ne_de_Rothschild) to ask her friends whether they would appear on the catwalk; Chanel had decided to use "personalities", women "with bosoms and hips – with a real shape – they must have elegance", rather than the sylphlike and anonymous models she had use pre-war whose function was to bring attention to the clothes rather than themselves, [4] (#cite_note-C1-4) following Chanel's precept that just as a watch told the time, a model should "tell the dress". [5] (#cite_note-Haed55-5) This troupe of models included Marie-Eugênia "Mimi" Ouro Preto, later wife of the novelist Count Guy d'Arcangues (/wiki/Arcangues) ; Claude de Leusse, later a journalist and novelist; Princess Odile de Cröy (/wiki/House_of_Cro%C3%BF) , who would subsequently become social secretary to French President Georges Pompidou (/wiki/Georges_Pompidou) ; [4] (#cite_note-C1-4) and the relatively unknown Arnaud, who first worked for Chanel when she was seventeen, [6] (#cite_note-Chaney2-6) having just completed her baccalauréat (/wiki/Baccalaur%C3%A9at) in philosophy, and who was a "reincarnation of the lovely [Marthe] Davelli" [7] (#cite_note-Haed22-7) (the opera-singer friend of Chanel from her very earliest days as a designer). This group worked during the 1950s as "brand ambassadors" for Chanel, and in exchange for their formidable range of contacts within Paris, were allowed to keep – and thereby promote – the latest fashions that they modelled, hence the name they were given, les blousons Chanel . [4] (#cite_note-C1-4) The 1954 comeback collection received a "venomous" reception from the French press, not only because Chanel had yet to regain her reputation following her controversial wartime activities but because the clothes were seen as essentially conservative and offering little new. [8] (#cite_note-Pic1-8) Bettina Ballard, the influential editor of American Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , remained loyal to Chanel, however, and featured Arnaud in the March 1954 issue, [8] (#cite_note-Pic1-8) photographed by Henry Clarke (/wiki/Henry_Clarke_(photographer)) , wearing three outfits: a red dress with a V-neck, paired with ropes of pearls; a tiered seersucker evening gown; and, to cap it all and in response to both public – and Ballard's – demand, a piece of timeless Chanel – a navy jersey mid-calf suit. [9] (#cite_note-Ch1-9) Arnaud wore this outfit, "with its slightly padded, square shouldered cardigan jacket, two patch pockets and sleeves that unbuttoned back to reveal crisp white cuffs", above "a white muslin blouse with a perky collar and bow [that] stayed perfectly in place with small tabs that buttoned onto the waistline of an easy A-line skirt." [10] (#cite_note-Wall2-10) Ballard had bought the suit herself, which gave "an overwhelming impression of insouciant, youthful elegance", [9] (#cite_note-Ch1-9) and orders for the clothes that Arnaud had modelled soon started pouring in from the States. [11] (#cite_note-Pic4-11) Chanel became very close to les blousons Chanel , none more so than to the "incomparable" [12] (#cite_note-Bott2-12) Arnaud, who was "almost like her shadow", [6] (#cite_note-Chaney2-6) her "fetish model", [13] (#cite_note-deyd-13) her "alter ego ... whom she almost considered her equal", [14] (#cite_note-Cass-14) "her muse and dream model" [2] (#cite_note-fraz1-2) and "her favourite". [15] (#cite_note-Ch3-15) [16] (#cite_note-Bott1-16) Chanel said, referring to Arnaud's early work as a cover girl and the shabby way in which she had been treated by magazines: "I was a good angel to her. I became rather attached to her." [7] (#cite_note-Haed22-7) It troubled Chanel that Arnaud had to return to her parents' house in Neuilly after a day's work and that she ate alone at a restaurant, so she offered the model a room in a hotel on rue Cambon, as well as meals with her alone or when she was entertaining friends. [14] (#cite_note-Cass-14) [17] (#cite_note-Haedpara-17) Ballard said that Chanel had created her "in her own image", [18] (#cite_note-Pic3-18) and Arnaud not only constantly pestered Chanel for her old, worn suits, [19] (#cite_note-Haed4-19) but also mimicked many of Chanel's mannerisms both in everyday life, such as how she held her cigarette and folded her scarf, as well as on the catwalk and on photoshoots, including the trademark Chanel stance with one foot in front of the other, her stomach resolutely vertical and flat, her head held imperiously high with her chin up, and one hand thrust into a skirt pocket. [1] (#cite_note-Liaut-1) Nearly forty years later Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) , who was appointed as artistic director of the fashion house in 1983, would instruct supermodel Linda Evangelista (/wiki/Linda_Evangelista) to copy the "legendary" Arnaud's poses when modelling during the 1992 Chanel spring collection at rue Cambon. [20] (#cite_note-Orth-20) Rumours soon arose that Chanel and Arnaud were lovers; [14] (#cite_note-Cass-14) according to Sam Spiegel's biographer, Spiegel loved telling people that she was Coco Chanel's girl, because being a lesbian made her a virgin in his eyes. [2] (#cite_note-fraz1-2) Justine Picardie, however, claims that Chanel's relationship with Arnaud – as well as with the American model Suzy Parker (/wiki/Suzy_Parker) – was "a curious mixture of mothering and mentoring, rather than anything truly sexual". [21] (#cite_note-Pic5-21) Arnaud announced in 1960 that she no longer wished to work for Chanel, having tired of the life of a model. Chanel was mortified – Haedrich states that "she could not do without Marie-Hélène" [7] (#cite_note-Haed22-7) – and tried to retain her services by hiring her father as a director of the company on an exorbitant salary, as well as hinting that Arnaud herself would become a director. [15] (#cite_note-Ch3-15) [7] (#cite_note-Haed22-7) According to Haedrich, Chanel said: "Marie-Hélène has had it with being a model ... I understand her. But she may be wrong." Haedrich comments: "She had said it all in two sentences: So that kid thinks she can take my place. Wishing doesn't make one Chanel. " [22] (#cite_note-Haed1-22) This contretemps occurred at a time when Chanel was almost 80 and consideration as to identity of her successor was in the air, with many people thinking that Chanel had selected Arnaud to take over from her. [7] (#cite_note-Haed22-7) [14] (#cite_note-Cass-14) But Arnaud was reported to have said, contradicting the notion held by Chanel that both she and her father "lusted after" [17] (#cite_note-Haedpara-17) Chanel's throne: "I loved Coco .... it never crossed my mind that one day I would replace her." [15] (#cite_note-Ch3-15) Arnaud did leave, as did her father, who stated "My daughter is capable of doing better things than she is doing." [22] (#cite_note-Haed1-22) Chanel's break with Arnaud was painful – it was done "for the sake of the house" [17] (#cite_note-Haedpara-17) – and Chanel would later speak unkindly of her. [23] (#cite_note-Chaney4-23) Other houses [ edit ] Although by 1958 Arnaud had become the public face of Chanel, [1] (#cite_note-Liaut-1) [2] (#cite_note-fraz1-2) she also worked for other fashion houses, including Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) , Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) , André Courrèges (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Courr%C3%A8ges) , Jean Dessès (/wiki/Jean_Dess%C3%A8s) , Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior_SE) and Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) . Her closest association was with the recently launched house of Guy Laroche (/wiki/Guy_Laroche) , for whom she appeared on the cover of Life (/wiki/Life_(magazine)) magazine in a gold dress with white polka dots on 1 April 1957. The accompanying text, in which she was described as the "most popular and versatile model in Paris", [24] (#cite_note-Life1-24) stated: A young new model and a young new designer whose clothes she showed have given Paris a sense of double discovery this spring. Twenty-two-year-old Marie-Hélène Arnaud is unlike the breed of Paris mannequins who are usually pale, abnormally thin and wear their clothes with an air of dead-pan hauteur. Marie-Hélène has an outdoor look, is slender but far from skinny (115 pounds, 5' 5 1/2" tall, with 35 inch bust and hips), looks as if she likes the clothes she wears. "People are getting tired of those spooks," said a veteran fashion photographer. "Marie-Hélène is soft, round and looks like a girl." [24] (#cite_note-Life1-24) Laroche's first collection was designed "entirely with Arnaud in mind", [24] (#cite_note-Life1-24) and although she was not paid for her work, she could keep the clothes. [1] (#cite_note-Liaut-1) Subsequent work [ edit ] After she left Chanel, Arnaud set herself up a designer, launching a line of clothes for the department store Grande Maison de Blanc in the Place de l'Opéra (/wiki/Place_de_l%27Op%C3%A9ra) , with five seamstresses working from her Paris apartment. [1] (#cite_note-Liaut-1) The line was not a success and was short-lived. [1] (#cite_note-Liaut-1) She also considered opening a boutique in Paris and was convinced that Sam Spiegel was going to back her, but she overestimated his wealth; despite being smitten with her, according to Bill Blowitz, "There's no way Sam [was] going to do that for her." [2] (#cite_note-fraz1-2) She later worked for the French Tourist Agency and in a gallery. [1] (#cite_note-Liaut-1) Acting [ edit ] Like many models of the era, Arnaud branched out into acting in films. She had a number of minor speaking roles, but the biggest film she featured in was her non-speaking role in the musical Gigi , which won a record-breaking nine Oscars (/wiki/Academy_Awards) in 1958, including Best Picture and Best Costume Design (for Cecil Beaton (/wiki/Cecil_Beaton) ). Wearing a Beaton-designed evening dress and playing the part of a Maxim (/wiki/Maxim%27s) 's girl, she made a dramatic entrance on the arm of Maurice Chevalier (/wiki/Maurice_Chevalier) . [1] (#cite_note-Liaut-1) Filmography [ edit ] Mannequins of Paris (/wiki/Mannequins_of_Paris) (1956) as Josette Ça aussi c'est Paris (1957) The Twilight Girls (Fr: Les Collégiennes ) (1957) as Catherine Royer Gigi (/wiki/Gigi_(1958_film)) (1958) as a Maxim's girl Fantômas (/wiki/Fant%C3%B4mas_(1964_film)) (1964) as Lady Beltham References [ edit ] ^ a b c d e f g h Liaut, 1994, pp. 169–71. ^ a b c d e f Fraser-Cavassoni, 2002, p. 271. ^ (#cite_ref-Paris_3-0) Le Parisien , 31 October 2015. ^ a b c Cosgrave, 2012, p. 129. ^ (#cite_ref-Haed55_5-0) Haedrich, 1972, p. 195. ^ a b Chaney, 2012, p. 408. ^ a b c d e Haedrich, 1972, p. 200. ^ a b Picardie, 2013, p. 270. ^ a b Chaney, 2012, p. 406. ^ (#cite_ref-Wall2_10-0) Wallach, 1999, p. 151. ^ (#cite_ref-Pic4_11-0) Picardie, 2013, p. 273. ^ (#cite_ref-Bott2_12-0) Bott, 2007, p. 75. ^ (#cite_ref-deyd_13-0) Deydier, 2012. ^ a b c d Cassati, 2009, ch. 13. ^ a b c Chaney, 2012, p. 424. ^ (#cite_ref-Bott1_16-0) Bott, 2007, p. 33. ^ a b c Haedrich, 1972, p. 202. ^ (#cite_ref-Pic3_18-0) Picardie, 2013, p. 271. ^ (#cite_ref-Haed4_19-0) Haedrich, 1972, pp. 195–6 ^ (#cite_ref-Orth_20-0) Orth, 1992. ^ (#cite_ref-Pic5_21-0) Picardie, 2013, p. 294. ^ a b Haedrich, 1972, p. 201. ^ (#cite_ref-Chaney4_23-0) Chaney, 2012, p. 425. ^ a b c Life , 1 April 1957, p. 89. Bibliography [ edit ] Bott, Danièle (2007). Chanel: Collections and Creations . London: Thames & Hudson. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780500513606 . Cassati, Sandro (2009). Coco Chanel pour l'amour des femmes . Paris: City Editions. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9782824649542 . Chaney, Lisa (2012). Chanel: An Intimate Life . London: Penguin. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780141036854 . Cosgrave, Bronwyn (2012). Vogue on: Coco Chanel (Vogue on Designers) . London: Quadrille. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781849491112 . Deydier, Catherine (30 July 2012). "1954, N° 5 de Chanel" (http://madame.lefigaro.fr/beaute/1954-n-5-de-chanel-300712-271656) . madame.lefigaro.fr . Retrieved 5 January 2017 . Fraser-Cavassoni, Natasha (2003). Sam Spiegel . Simon and Schuster. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780684836195 . Haedrich, Marcel (1972). Coco Chanel: Her Life, Her Secrets . London: Robert Hale. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0709134770 . Le Parisien (31 October 2015). "Toussaint : qui sont les célébrités inhumées dans l'Oise" (http://www.leparisien.fr/abancourt-60220/toussaint-qui-sont-les-celebrites-inhumees-dans-l-oise-31-10-2015-5235671.php) . Retrieved 28 January 2017 . Liaut, Jean-Noël (1994). Modèles et mannequins: 1945–1965 . Paris: Filipacchi. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9782850183416 . Life magazine (1 April 1957). "Double Discovery in Paris: new young designer's new model scores success in three fields" (https://books.google.com/books?id=7kwEAAAAMBAJ) . pp. 89–95. {{ cite magazine (/wiki/Template:Cite_magazine) }} : Cite magazine requires \|magazine= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) Orth, Maureen (February 1992). "Kaiser Karl: Behind the Mask" (http://www.vanityfair.com/magazine/1992/02/lagerfeld199202) . Vanity Fair . Retrieved 24 December 2016 . Picardie, Justine (2013). Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life . London: HarperCollins. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780007319046 . Wallach, Janet (1999). Chanel: Her Style and Her Life . London: Mitchell Beazley. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1840002026 . External links [ edit ] Marie-Hélène Arnaud (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0036071/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) Marie-Hélène Arnaud (https://web.archive.org/web//https://www.tcm.com/tcmdb/person/106428%7C) at the TCM Movie Database (/wiki/Turner_Classic_Movies) Marie-Hélène Arnaud (https://www.allmovie.com/artist/p275148) at AllMovie (/wiki/AllMovie) Marie-Hélène Arnaud (https://www.rottentomatoes.com/celebrity/mariehelene_arnaud) at Rotten Tomatoes (/wiki/Rotten_Tomatoes) Marie-Hélène Arnaud (https://www.allocine.fr/personne/fichepersonne_gen_cpersonne=67617.html?nopub=1) at AlloCiné (/wiki/AlloCin%C3%A9) (in French) v t e Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) Owners Alain Wertheimer (/wiki/Alain_Wertheimer) Gérard Wertheimer (/wiki/G%C3%A9rard_Wertheimer) Jacques Wertheimer (/wiki/Jacques_Wertheimer) Pierre Wertheimer (/wiki/Pierre_Wertheimer) Designers Coco Chanel (/wiki/Coco_Chanel) Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) Virginie Viard (/wiki/Virginie_Viard) Perfumers Ernest Beaux (/wiki/Ernest_Beaux) Jacques Polge (/wiki/Jacques_Polge) Olivier Polge (/wiki/Olivier_Polge) Henri Robert (/wiki/Henri_Robert) Perfumes Bleu de Chanel (/wiki/Bleu_de_Chanel) Bois des Îles (/wiki/Bois_des_%C3%8Eles) Chanel No. 5 (/wiki/Chanel_No._5) Chanel No. 19 (/wiki/Chanel_No._19) Chanel No. 22 (/wiki/Chanel_No._22) Chanel Chance (/wiki/Chanel_Chance) Coco (/wiki/Coco_(perfume)) Coco Mademoiselle (/wiki/Coco_Mademoiselle) Cuir de Russie (/wiki/Cuir_de_Russie) Égoïste (/wiki/%C3%89go%C3%AFste) Garments Little black dress (/wiki/Little_black_dress) Jacqueline Kennedy's pink Chanel suit (/wiki/Pink_Chanel_suit_of_Jacqueline_Bouvier_Kennedy) Other products Chanel 2.55 handbag (/wiki/Chanel_2.55) Chanel J12 watch (/wiki/Chanel_J12) Films Chanel Solitaire (/wiki/Chanel_Solitaire) Coco Before Chanel (/wiki/Coco_Before_Chanel) Coco Chanel (/wiki/Coco_Chanel_(film)) Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (/wiki/Coco_Chanel_%26_Igor_Stravinsky) No. 5 the Film (/wiki/No._5_the_Film) Musical Coco (/wiki/Coco_(musical)) Book The Allure of Chanel (/wiki/The_Allure_of_Chanel) Related Mousse Partners (/wiki/Mousse_Partners) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000459820193) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/8442148451589115970007) National France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb170963337) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb170963337) Italy (https://opac.sbn.it/nome/DDSV201442) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐ckbb4 Cached time: 20240712180452 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.610 seconds Real time usage: 0.846 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3540/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 47490/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3799/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 61283/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.393/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 18592768/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 787.587 1 -total 26.41% 207.963 1 Template:Infobox_person 16.32% 128.554 9 Template:Cite_book 13.57% 106.883 1 Template:Allocine_name 12.66% 99.694 1 Template:In_lang 11.02% 86.796 1 Template:Chanel 10.61% 83.600 1 Template:Navbox 8.53% 67.151 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 8.01% 63.055 1 Template:Short_description 6.74% 53.099 1 Template:Wikidata_image Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:52672133-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712180452 and revision id 1202116196. 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German model Céline Bethmann Born ( 1998-07-04 ) 4 July 1998 (age 26) Koblenz (/wiki/Koblenz) , Germany Occupation Model Years active 2017–present Modeling information Height 1.81 m (5 ft 11 + 1 ⁄ 2 in) Hair color Brown Eye color Blue Agency Elite Model Management (/wiki/Elite_Model_Management) (London, Barcelona, Milan & Copenhagen) Céline Bethmann (born 4 July 1998) [1] (#cite_note-1) is a German model and the winner of Germany's Next Topmodel (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel) in 2017. Early life [ edit ] Bethmann was born in Koblenz (/wiki/Koblenz) and lives with her sister and mother. To participate in Germany's Next Topmodel (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel) , she left Koblenz high school at the Carthage before taking her Abitur (/wiki/Abitur) . [2] (#cite_note-2) Career [ edit ] In the final of the twelfth season of the show on 25 May 2017, 18-year-old Bethmann won the competition. [3] (#cite_note-3) She received a contract with model agency ONEeins , an Opel Adam, and prize money of €100,000. [4] (#cite_note-4) Bethmann signed with Elite Model Management (/wiki/Elite_Model_Management) in London, Milan, Paris, Barcelona and Copenhagen. She has had jobs in Paris, Milan, Cuba, Barcelona and London. In March 2017, Céline made her catwalk debut walking shows in Paris, such as Balmain (/wiki/Balmain_(fashion_house)) , Yohji Yamamoto (/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto) , Tsumori Chisato (/wiki/Tsumori_Chisato) presentation, and Agnès b. (/wiki/Agn%C3%A8s_b.) Bethmann also featured in an editorial for Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) France and Italia. She works for various brands like Bershka (/wiki/Bershka) and Urban Outfitters (/wiki/Urban_Outfitters) . References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "GNTM 2017: Céline – wer ist das Hashtag-Mädchen?" (https://www.noz.de/deutschland-welt/medien/artikel/847034/gntm-2017-celine-wer-ist-das-hashtag-maedchen#) . Neue Osnabrücker Zeitung (/wiki/Neue_Osnabr%C3%BCcker_Zeitung) (in German). 23 February 2017 . Retrieved 23 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) red! Stars, Lifestyle & More , Sendung vom 18. Mai 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Céline Bethmann: Steckbrief, Bilder und News" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170613071134/https://web.de/magazine/schlagwort/celine-bethmann) . web.de (/wiki/Web.de) (in German). Archived from the original (https://web.de/magazine/schlagwort/celine-bethmann) on 13 June 2017 . Retrieved 26 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Céline Bethmann ist neues Topmodel" (http://www.general-anzeiger-bonn.de/news/kultur-und-medien/Céline-Bethmann-ist-neues-Topmodel-article3565193.html) . General-Anzeiger (/wiki/General-Anzeiger_(Bonn)) (in German). 26 May 2017 . Retrieved 26 May 2017 . External links [ edit ] Céline Bethmann (https://www.instagram.com/celinebethmann/) on Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) v t e Germany's Next Topmodel (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel) Seasons 1 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_1) 2 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_2) 3 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_3) 4 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_4) 5 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_5) 6 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_6) 7 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_7) 8 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_8) 9 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_9) 10 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_10) 11 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_11) 12 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_12) 13 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_13) 14 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_14) 15 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_15) 16 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_16) 17 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_17) 18 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_18) 19 (/wiki/Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_season_19) Contestants (/wiki/List_of_Germany%27s_Next_Topmodel_contestants) Winners Lena Gercke (/wiki/Lena_Gercke) Barbara Meier (/wiki/Barbara_Meier) Jennifer Hof (/wiki/Jennifer_Hof) Sara Nuru (/wiki/Sara_Nuru) Alisar Ailabouni (/wiki/Alisar_Ailabouni) Jana Beller (/wiki/Jana_Beller) Luisa Hartema (/wiki/Luisa_Hartema) Lovelyn Enebechi (/wiki/Lovelyn_Enebechi) Stefanie Giesinger (/wiki/Stefanie_Giesinger) Vanessa Fuchs (/wiki/Vanessa_Fuchs) Kim Hnizdo (/wiki/Kim_Hnizdo) Céline Bethmann Toni Dreher-Adenuga (/wiki/Toni_Dreher-Adenuga) Simone Kowalski (/wiki/Simone_Kowalski) Jacky Wruck (/wiki/Jacky_Wruck) Alex-Mariah Peter (/wiki/Alex-Mariah_Peter) Lou-Anne Gleißenebner-Teskey (/wiki/Lou-Anne_Glei%C3%9Fenebner-Teskey) Vivien Blotzki (/wiki/Vivien_Blotzki) Other alumni Micaela Schäfer (/wiki/Micaela_Sch%C3%A4fer) Fiona Erdmann (/wiki/Fiona_Erdmann) Vanessa Hegelmaier (/wiki/Vanessa_Hegelmaier) Milla von Krockow (/wiki/Milla_von_Krockow) Gina-Lisa Lohfink (/wiki/Gina-Lisa_Lohfink) Larissa Marolt (/wiki/Larissa_Marolt) Rebecca Mir (/wiki/Rebecca_Mir) Giuliana Radermacher (/wiki/Giuliana_Farfalla) Miriam Rautert (/wiki/Miriam_Rautert) Related Die Model WG (/wiki/Die_Model_WG_(German_TV_series)) Top Model (/wiki/Top_Model) Austria's Next Topmodel (/wiki/Austria%27s_Next_Topmodel) Switzerland's Next Topmodel (/wiki/Switzerland%27s_Next_Topmodel) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/3266150688330112660009) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/1140647458) People Deutsche Biographie (https://www.deutsche-biographie.de/pnd1140647458.html?language=en) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐l2ktd Cached time: 20240713045651 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.422 seconds Real time usage: 0.570 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2241/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 35832/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2886/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 28561/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.317/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7688868/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 530.538 1 -total 40.31% 213.844 1 Template:Infobox_model 21.05% 111.678 1 Template:Reflist 18.29% 97.041 3 Template:Cite_web 16.35% 86.731 1 Template:Germany's_Next_Topmodel 15.99% 84.830 2 Template:Navbox 13.87% 73.597 1 Template:Short_description 8.00% 42.430 1 Template:Infobox 7.98% 42.314 2 Template:Pagetype 7.29% 38.669 1 Template:Height Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:54149379-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713045651 and revision id 1179887675. 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Woven cloth, blend of silk and cotton Silk merchants in the 19th century Mashru (also historically spelled mashroo , misru , mushroo or mushru ) is a woven cloth that is a blend (/wiki/Blend_(textile)) of silk (/wiki/Silk) and cotton (/wiki/Cotton) . It was historically a hand-woven satin (/wiki/Satin) silk fabric variety found in the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/Indian_subcontinent) , and its proper use is described in the 16th-century Ain-i-Akbari (/wiki/Ain-i-Akbari) . History [ edit ] Mashru is explicitly mentioned in the administrative document, the Ain-i-Akbari , of the 16th-century Mughal Empire (/wiki/Mughal_Empire) , under silken kinds of stuff: "... the ordinary orthodox Muslim was only anxious to wear clothes of simple material like linen and to avoid silk, velvet, brocade, or fur and coloured ... Mashru." [1] (#cite_note-AiA-1) Mixed silk-and-cotton textiles were worn, because, by canon, a Muslim must not wear a dress of pure silk. [1] (#cite_note-AiA-1) Varieties containing silk and cotton admixtures gained greater currency in the empire, more particularly after the issuance of the Ain-i-Akbari . [2] (#cite_note-Journal-2) During the Mughal period (/wiki/Mughal_Empire) , Mashru was used for the costumes (/wiki/Costume) of courtiers (/wiki/Courtier) and nobles. [3] (#cite_note-3) Mashru is presumed to be an Indian innovation. [2] (#cite_note-Journal-2) Etymology [ edit ] The word mashru means 'permitted', derived from mashry in Arabic (/wiki/Arabic) , and misry (or misru ) refers to a mixture in Sanskrit (/wiki/Sanskrit) . [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) [6] (#cite_note-Jas-6) In India, Mashru is also known under such names as bandha, patolu, telia rumal, chitki, or simply tie. These names generally mean 'permitted', but it is also related to the Sanskrit word misru, meaning 'mixed'. [7] (#cite_note-7) Texture and types [ edit ] Production and texture [ edit ] Mashru has been primarily produced in Punjab (/wiki/Punjab) , Sindh (/wiki/Sindh) [8] (#cite_note-8) and western parts of India (/wiki/Western_India) . [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-:6-10) [11] (#cite_note-PRCola-11) It is a double-layered material with a thick cotton base and covered with an almost single stranded silken warp and woof. Mashru is a stout, silken, warp (/wiki/Warp_and_weft) -faced fabric textile with a variegated (/wiki/Variegated) pattern. In its weaving, the loom brings the cotton yarn down and the silk fibers up. This produces a cloth that exhibits a silk face and cotton backing. [12] (#cite_note-Henry-12) Hence it was a mix of silk and cotton, although with a satin finish. The result is a thick and heavy cloth with less lustrous and feminine-like pure silk. [12] (#cite_note-Henry-12) Types [ edit ] Mashru with silk face and cotton inside was useful for various dresses and household items. [10] (#cite_note-:6-10) [11] (#cite_note-PRCola-11) Indigenous mashru was famous for its strength and aesthetics. "All 'Mushroos' wash well, especially the finer kinds..." [11] (#cite_note-PRCola-11) There are varieties of mashru clothes, including gulbadan (/wiki/Gulbadan_(silk_cloth)) and sufi. Superior kinds of material are categorized as mashru; and lower quality are called sangi (/wiki/Sangi_(cloth)) . [13] (#cite_note-13) Mashru is less expensive than pure silk. [14] (#cite_note-:8-14) Religious admonition [ edit ] The wearing of pure silk, particularly next to the skin, was widely held to be an impious luxury for good Muslims. "Pure silk is not allowed to men, but women may wear the most sumptuous silk fabrics" [15] (#cite_note-15) [12] (#cite_note-Henry-12) Unlike pure silk, the blend (/wiki/Blend_(textile)) was lawful. Hence, it was an acceptable and popular type of cloth among Muslim men in northern India and Pakistan. A similar type of cloth called kutnu was found in the Near East (/wiki/Near_East) . [1] (#cite_note-AiA-1) "The ikat velvet pieces which have been located so far and can be identified as Indian are similar in style to the mashru being woven in western India ... for the basic foundation and this may have been prepared specially for the conservative Muslim who did not use silk thread. 19 Ain-i-Akbari also mentions that Akbar received textiles signed by Giyatyad - Din Ali Naqshband. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-Crill-18) [6] (#cite_note-Jas-6) [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) See also [ edit ] Alacha (/wiki/Alacha) Gulbadan (silk cloth) (/wiki/Gulbadan_(silk_cloth)) Garbi cloth (/wiki/Garbi_cloth) References [ edit ] ^ a b c 61 Ain-i-Akbari , Blochmann, I, 89". See A Social History of Islamic India ; Yasin, Mohammad; via: books.google.co.in; (1958); p. 39 ^ a b Indian Journal of History of Science ; Volumes 17-18; p. 120 ^ (#cite_ref-3) General, India Office of the Registrar (1962). Census of India, 1961: Gujarat . Manager of Publications. p. 66. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Textiles and Dress of India: Socio-economic, Environmental and Symbolic Significance . University of Minnesota. 1992. p. 69. ^ (#cite_ref-:3_5-0) Gillow, John; Barnard, Nicholas (2008). Indian Textiles . Thames & Hudson. p. 98. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-500-51432-0 . ^ a b Dhamija, Jasleen (2002). Woven Magic: The Affinitity [sic] Between Indian and Indonesian Textiles . Dian Rakyat. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-979-523-567-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Museum für Völkerkunde und Schweizerisches Museum für Volkskunde Basel, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff · 1986; article (https://books.google.com/books?id=XzbrAAAAMAAJ&q=The+word+Mashru+means+permitted+in+Arabic) ^ (#cite_ref-8) Bühler, Alfred; Fischer, Eberhard (1980). Indian Tie-dyed Fabrics . Calico Museum of Textiles. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Mukhopādhyāẏa, Trailokyanātha (1888). Art-manufactures of India: Specially Compiled for the Glasgow International Exhibition, 1888 . Superintendent of Government Printing. p. 347. ^ a b MATHEWS, KOLANJIKOMBIL (2017). Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Textile Terms: Four Volume Set . Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited. p. 912. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-93-85059-66-7 . ^ a b c Cola, P. R. (1867). How to Develop a Productive Industry in India and the East: Mills and Factories for Ginning, Spinning, and Weaving Cotton... Virtue and Company. p. 328. ^ a b c Yule, Sir Henry; Burnell, Arthur Coke (1996). Hobson-Jobson: The Anglo-Indian Dictionary . Wordsworth Editions. p. 707. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-85326-363-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Mukhopādhyāẏa, Trailokyanātha (1888). Art-manufactures of India: Specially Compiled for the Glasgow International Exhibition, 1888 . Superintendent of Government Printing. p. 338. ^ (#cite_ref-:8_14-0) Baden-Powell, Baden Henry (1872). Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab... Printed at the Thomason Civil Engineering College Press. pp. 64, 65. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Yusuf Ali , op. cit. 90, seq. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Handwoven Fabrics of India (https://books.google.com/books?id=u2VQAAAAMAAJ&q=M) ; p. 56 ^ (#cite_ref-17) Jasleen Dhamija, Jyotindra Jain (https://books.google.com/books?id=u2VQAAAAMAAJ&q=M) ; 1989 ^ (#cite_ref-Crill_18-0) Crill, Rosemary (2006). Textiles from India: The Global Trade... Conference on the Indian Textile Trade, Kolkata, 12-14 October 2003: Seagull Books. p. 331. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-905422-17-3 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location) ) ^ (#cite_ref-19) Jadia, Umesh (1999). Kachchh: An Introduction to the Historical Places, Textile Embroideries, Arts & Crafts Etc. of Kachchh . Radhey Screen Printing. p. 28. ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Clothing" (http://char.txa.cornell.edu/islamicclothes.htm) . char.txa.cornell.edu . 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German luxury e-commerce platform Mytheresa Type of business Public (/wiki/Public_company) GmbH (/wiki/Gesellschaft_mit_beschr%C3%A4nkter_Haftung_(Deutschland)) Available in English (/wiki/English_language) , German (/wiki/German_language) , French (/wiki/French_language) , Italian (/wiki/Italian_language) , Spanish (/wiki/Spanish_language) , Arabic (/wiki/Arabic_Language) , Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) , Korean (/wiki/Korean_language) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) NYSE (/wiki/New_York_Stock_Exchange) : MYTE (https://www.nyse.com/quote/XNYS:MYTE) Founded 2006 Headquarters Munich (/wiki/Munich) , Germany Area served Worldwide Key people Michael Kliger, Chief Executive Officer; Martin Beer, Chief Financial Officer; Sebastian Dietzmann, Chief Operations Officer; Gareth Locke, Chief Growth Officer Industry Luxury, E-commerce (/wiki/E-commerce) Products (/wiki/Product_(business)) Luxury and lifestyle goods Revenue (/wiki/Revenue) €747.3 Million GMV in fiscal year 2022 (+21.3% vs. FY21) [1] (#cite_note-1) Parent (/wiki/Holding_company) MYT Netherlands Parent B.V. URL mytheresa (http://mytheresa.com) .com (http://mytheresa.com) Mytheresa is a luxury e-commerce (/wiki/E-commerce) platform founded as a boutique in 1987. Mytheresa launched online in 2006 and offers ready-to-wear, shoes, bags and accessories for womenswear, menswear, kidswear and lifestyle products. Its CEO is Michael Kliger and it ships to over 130 countries. [2] (#cite_note-2) In January 2021, Mytheresa filed an IPO (/wiki/IPO) on the New York Stock Exchange (/wiki/New_York_Stock_Exchange) that valued the company at $2.2 billion; [3] (#cite_note-3) its valuation increased to $3 billion on its first day of trading. [4] (#cite_note-4) History [ edit ] The Mytheresa online shop was founded in 2006 by Susanne and Christoph Botschen and is associated with the eponymous multi-brand store in Munich (previously the THERESA store). In 2014, the physical THERESA store and mytheresa.com were acquired by American luxury retailer Neiman Marcus (/wiki/Neiman_Marcus) for €150m, giving Neiman Marcus greater access to international customers and bolstering their e-commerce technology. [5] (#cite_note-5) During Neiman Marcus's 2020 bankruptcy, the company began the process of spinning off mytheresa as an independent entity. [6] (#cite_note-6) In January 2019 Mytheresa launched a kidswear category, [7] (#cite_note-7) and January 2020 saw the launch of Mytheresa Men. [8] (#cite_note-8) A new homeware and lifestyle category Life followed in May 2022. [9] (#cite_note-9) In 2022, Mytheresa expanded its luxury offering to home décor and lifestyle products. In 2023, Mytheresa announced the launch of certified pre-owned watches from over 25 luxury brands, such as Audemars Piguet (/wiki/Audemars_Piguet) and Cartier (/wiki/Cartier_(jeweler)) , in collaboration with Swiss jewelry and watch company Bucherer (/wiki/Bucherer) . [10] (#cite_note-10) As a global retailer, Mytheresa operates in 8 languages: English, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Arabic, Chinese, and Korean [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) . According to an interview (https://www.textilwirtschaft.de/business/news/myhteresa-ceo-michale-kliger-anlaesslich-der-quartalsbilanz-wir-entlassen-nicht-wir-stellen-ein-239343) on February 23, 2023, Michel Kliger, a representative of the company, stated, 'Wir entlassen nicht, wir stellen ein' (German for 'We don't dismiss, we hire'). However, in November of the same year, the company faced significant financial challenges and subsequently laid off over 70 employees, constituting nearly 10% of their inhouse workforce at the Munich headquarters. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Mytheresa - Q4 and Full FY22 Results" (https://investors.mytheresa.com/news/news-details/2022/Q4-and-Full-FY22-Results-Mytheresa-Accelerates-Growth-in-Q4-and-Concludes-the-Full-Fiscal-Year-With-a-GMV-Growth-of-21.3-a-Two-Year-GMV-Growth-of-66.3-and-a-Record-Profitability-of-9.6-Adjusted-EBITDA-Margin/default.aspx) . Retrieved 2022-04-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Mytheresa Prices IPO at $26 per Share, for a $2.3 Billion Valuation (https://www.businessoffashion.com/amp/articles/news-analysis/mytheresa-prices-ipo-at-26-per-share-for-a-23-billion-valuation) LAUREN SHERMAN, JANUARY 21, 2021 ^ (#cite_ref-3) Luxury fashion platform Mytheresa valued at $2.2 billion in U.S. IPO (https://mobile.reuters.com/article/amp/idUSKBN29Q05E) Aishwarya Nair and Kanishka Singh, Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) , January 20, 2021 ^ (#cite_ref-4) Mytheresa CEO talks as valuation reaches $3 billion (https://www.voguebusiness.com/companies/mytheresa-ceo-talks-as-ipo-valuation-reaches-3-billion) KATI CHITRAKORN, Vogue , 22 JANUARY 2021 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Moin, David (2014-09-14). "Neiman Marcus Acquires Mytheresa.com" (https://wwd.com/feature/neiman-marcus-acquires-mytheresacom-7911653-1047867/) . WWD . Retrieved 2023-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Edelson, Sharon. "Former Neiman Marcus Unit Mytheresa Valued At $3.08 Billion In NYSE Debut" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/sharonedelson/2021/01/21/former-neiman-marcus-unit-mytheresa-valued-at-308-billion-in-nyse-debut/) . Forbes . Retrieved 2023-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Mytheresa Launches Kids (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/mytheresa-launches-kidswear-childrenswear) TAMISON O'Connor, October 24, 2018, ^ (#cite_ref-8) Mytheresa is about to start selling menswear (https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/mytheresa-menswear-launch) Faye Fearon, December 11, 2019, ^ (#cite_ref-9) Mytheresa launches Life, a new luxury lifestyle category (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/mytheresa-launches-life-luxury-lifestyle-tabletop-furniture-exclusive-1235180028/) Samantha Conti, May 16, 2022, ^ (#cite_ref-10) Mohammed, Hikmat (2023-09-21). "Bucherer Fine Jewellery Taps Mytheresa as First Retail Partner" (https://wwd.com/accessories-news/jewelry/bucherer-fine-jewellery-taps-mytheresa-as-first-retail-partner-1235825865/) . WWD . Retrieved 2023-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Mytheresa.com unveils Korean-language site after seeing triple-digit growth (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/mytheresa-com-unveils-korean-language-site-after-seeing-triple-digit-growth,807368.html) Barbara Santamaria, March 21, 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-12) MyTheresa targets Latin America with Spanish website launch (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/mytheresa-targets-latin-america-with-spanish-website-launch,962478.html) Elena Campos Valladares, April 10, 2018, See also [ edit ] YOOX Net-a-Porter Group (/wiki/YOOX_Net-a-Porter_Group) Farfetch (/wiki/Farfetch) Gilt Groupe (/wiki/Gilt_Groupe) Luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) This fashion (/wiki/Fashion) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Paris point Unit of Length Symbol Paris point Conversions 1 Paris point in ... ... is equal to ... SI units 2 ⁄ 3 cm Imperial and US customary 0.262 in The Paris point is a unit of length (/wiki/Unit_of_length) defined as 2 ⁄ 3 centimetre (6.67 mm; 0.262 in). It is commonly used for shoe sizes (/wiki/Shoe_sizes) in Continental Europe. The unit was invented by French shoemakers in the early 1800s. [1] (#cite_note-1) Its origin probably lies in 2 ⁄ 3 centimetre being very close to 1 ⁄ 4 inch; a French inch pouce-roi (/wiki/Units_of_measurement_in_France_before_the_French_Revolution#Length) is around 27 mm, a quarter of that is 6.7 mm, close to 6. 6 mm defined for the Paris point. [2] (#cite_note-2) See also [ edit ] Point (disambiguation) (/wiki/Point_(disambiguation)) Barleycorn (unit) (/wiki/Barleycorn_(unit)) , used in the English shoe sizing system. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Kindtler-Nielsen, Bue, ed. (2019). "Varifrån kommer skonumren ?". Världens Historia (in Swedish). No. 2. Bonnier Publications International. p. 71. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0806-4709 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0806-4709) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Drevet, Louis. "Une petite histoire des poids et mesures" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304064755/http://www.pesagefacile.com/xnews/news.articles.5/UNE-PETITE-HISTOIRE-DES-POIDS-ET-MESURES--Louis-DREVET.html) (in French). Archived from the original (http://www.pesagefacile.com/xnews/news.articles.5/UNE-PETITE-HISTOIRE-DES-POIDS-ET-MESURES--Louis-DREVET.html) on 4 March 2016 . Retrieved 18 August 2011 . This standards (/wiki/Standardization) - or measurement (/wiki/Measurement) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Paris_point&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐pll5b Cached time: 20240712172641 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.295 seconds Real time usage: 0.361 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 857/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 12794/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 797/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 11/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 16435/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.222/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 19032416/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 340.962 1 -total 28.15% 95.985 1 Template:Reflist 27.63% 94.224 1 Template:Lang 24.00% 81.816 1 Template:Infobox_unit 23.22% 79.157 1 Template:Infobox 22.50% 76.727 1 Template:Cite_magazine 18.07% 61.628 1 Template:Measurement-stub 17.65% 60.183 1 Template:Asbox 6.39% 21.788 1 Template:Cvt 2.62% 8.921 3 Template:Frac Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:24975082-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712172641 and revision id 1016910964. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Paris_point&oldid=1016910964 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Paris_point&oldid=1016910964) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Units of length (/wiki/Category:Units_of_length) Standards and measurement stubs (/wiki/Category:Standards_and_measurement_stubs) Hidden categories: CS1 Swedish-language sources (sv) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Swedish-language_sources_(sv)) CS1 French-language sources (fr) (/wiki/Category:CS1_French-language_sources_(fr)) Articles containing French-language text (/wiki/Category:Articles_containing_French-language_text) All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)
American TV host and designer (1916–2010) George W. Trippon (February 26, 1916 - January 1, 2010) was a Romanian-American teacher, fashion designer and author known for operating the Trippon Fashion Center design school in Los Angeles during the 1950s [1] (#cite_note-LADN1-1) and for a long-running TV show "Sew, What's New?" on The Learning Channel (/wiki/The_Learning_Channel) during the 1980s and 1990s. [2] (#cite_note-OBIT1-2) Trippon was born in 1916 in Aurora, Illinois (/wiki/Aurora,_Illinois) to parents George and Mary, both Romanian immigrants. [2] (#cite_note-OBIT1-2) At age 9, he attended dance school and later appeared in a number of Hollywood musicals. He served in World War II as a Quartermaster (/wiki/United_States_Army_Quartermaster_Corps) , and after discharge, he studied fashion design in Paris and Los Angeles. [3] (#cite_note-LADN2-3) He opened his own fashion design school and operated it during the 1950s. [1] (#cite_note-LADN1-1) In 1956, he was elected president of the Hollywood Beauty League, an organization dedicated to promoting Los Angeles as a cultural hub. [4] (#cite_note-LAECN1-4) In the 1970s, Trippon began presenting a television show "Sew, What's New?" on local television in Los Angeles; in the 1980s the show moved to The Learning Channel and broadcast there until the 1990s. [2] (#cite_note-OBIT1-2) Trippon also authored several books on fashion design as well as memoirs. Published works [ edit ] "Becoming a Dress Designer: What Every Designer Should Know" 1970. 157 pgs. ASIN: B000Q9PDM0 "Sewing Tricks 'n' Treats". 1984. 59 pgs. ASIN: B000GU4OGK "Let's Design, Cut, Sew, & Fit with George W. Trippon". 1985. 139 pgs, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780935245035 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780935245035) "Pigeon Hill: Growing up Romanian". 2001. 172 pgs. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780595208999 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780595208999) "Ode to Jimmie: I Will See You Soon" 2007. 62 pgs. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780595451777 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780595451777) References [ edit ] ^ a b staff (January 28, 1954). "Fashion class students will travel aborad" (https://www.newspapers.com/image/689872208/?terms=George%20W.%20Trippon&match=1) . Los Angeles Daily News . Retrieved 6 January 2023 . ^ a b c staff (January 5, 2010). "Trippon, George W." (https://www.newspapers.com/image/193219221/?article=b3d3fe57-26f3-469b-9e19-a696b9e3db65) Los Angeles Times . p. 13 . Retrieved 6 January 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-LADN2_3-0) staff (September 10, 1953). "Trippon Fashion Center has flexible courses" (https://www.newspapers.com/image/689900748/?terms=George%20W.%20Trippon&match=1) . Los Angeles Daily News . p. 29 . Retrieved 6 January 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-LAECN1_4-0) staff (December 21, 1955). "Hollywood Beauty League Elects Officers for 1956" (https://www.newspapers.com/image/683797404/?terms=George%20W.%20Trippon&match=1) . Los Angeles Evening Citizen News . Retrieved 6 January 2023 . NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐6f5ccb59c8‐s98h4 Cached time: 20240623090937 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.211 seconds Real time usage: 0.310 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1002/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 10044/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 969/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 23507/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.128/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3784002/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 296.481 1 -total 43.46% 128.838 1 Template:Short_description 28.94% 85.788 1 Template:Reflist 25.15% 74.551 3 Template:ISBN 23.12% 68.548 4 Template:Cite_news 20.98% 62.191 3 Template:Catalog_lookup_link 20.75% 61.521 6 Template:Main_other 19.63% 58.209 1 Template:SDcat 18.26% 54.148 2 Template:Pagetype 1.96% 5.822 9 Template:Yesno-no Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:27757329-0!canonical and timestamp 20240623090937 and revision id 1205598612. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=George_W._Trippon&oldid=1205598612 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=George_W._Trippon&oldid=1205598612) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : American television hosts (/wiki/Category:American_television_hosts) American people of Romanian descent (/wiki/Category:American_people_of_Romanian_descent) American fashion designers (/wiki/Category:American_fashion_designers) 1916 births (/wiki/Category:1916_births) 2010 deaths (/wiki/Category:2010_deaths) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata)
Biography portal (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Venezuela portal (/wiki/Portal:Venezuela) Wikimedia Commons has media related to Models from Venezuela (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Models_from_Venezuela) . NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐57d74c944b‐ghtxl Cached time: 20240721012014 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.090 seconds Real time usage: 0.172 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 146/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 4103/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 374/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 2243/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.055/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 1278575/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 158.659 1 -total 64.88% 102.933 1 Template:Commons_cat 60.84% 96.525 1 Template:Sister_project 59.01% 93.623 1 Template:Side_box 35.04% 55.598 1 Template:Portal 3.43% 5.448 1 Template:Replace Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3601250-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721012014 and revision id 810967127. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 4 subcategories, out of 4 total. - Models from Caracas (/wiki/Category:Models_from_Caracas) ‎ (55 P) + Venezuelan female models (/wiki/Category:Venezuelan_female_models) ‎ (133 P) Venezuelan LGBT models (/wiki/Category:Venezuelan_LGBT_models) ‎ (2 P) Venezuelan male models (/wiki/Category:Venezuelan_male_models) ‎ (31 P) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Venezuelan_models&oldid=810967127 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Venezuelan_models&oldid=810967127) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Models by nationality (/wiki/Category:Models_by_nationality) Venezuelan people by occupation (/wiki/Category:Venezuelan_people_by_occupation) Hidden category: Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata)
Turkish fashion designer Hanife Çetiner Born 06/14/1938 Çanakkale (/wiki/%C3%87anakkale) , Turkey (/wiki/Turkey) Died 10 January 2011 (2011-01-10) (aged 72–73) İzmir (/wiki/%C4%B0zmir) , Turkey Occupation Fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) Hanife Çetiner (14 June 1938 – 10 January 2011) was a Turkish (/wiki/Turkish_people) fashion designer. An art and home economics teacher, Çetiner started her career in fashion in 1990 and gained significant popularity over the next decade by making couture women's bridal and evening gowns in her workshop. Subsequently Çetiner became the principal designer for the 67th Miss Turkey (/wiki/Miss_Turkey) competition, creating 134 outfits for the various beauty pageant contestants. She is considered ahead of time in the use of sustainable fashion when the concept was not yet fully developed in the early 90’s. In her designs Çetiner frequently used textiles handwoven by women from small villages in Turkey, or repurposed embroidery pieces from antique Ottoman Empire clothing. She was passionate about supporting women and introducing the rich culture of Anatolia by creating responsible fashion. She frequently combined traditional and modern and fused old with the new. Her designs were showcased at competitions such as Miss Universal (/wiki/Miss_Universal) , Miss World (/wiki/Miss_World) , Miss Europe (/wiki/Miss_Europe) , and Miss International (/wiki/Miss_International) . A number of them won the "Best In Evening Gown" and "National Costume" awards, 9 and 4 times in total respectively. [1] (#cite_note-YeniAsır-1) In 1998, she organized the first ever fashion show in Şırnak and exhibited a collection of her shawls under the title "İzmir'den Şırnak'a Sevgi Bağları". [1] (#cite_note-YeniAsır-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Hanife Çetiner died on 10 January 2011 in İzmir (/wiki/%C4%B0zmir) after suffering a heart attack (/wiki/Heart_attack) . [3] (#cite_note-3) Her body was interred at the Balçova Upper Cemetery. [4] (#cite_note-4) Also an avid environmentalist, Hanife Çetiner supported many charitable organizations. For example, in 1995, together with Ege Orman (Forestry) Foundation she launched the charity event 'Ateşsiz Piknik' (Fire-free Picnic) to prevent forest fires. Starting from May, each year she tried to spread the news about this event by organizing picnics with different NGOs and schools. [1] (#cite_note-YeniAsır-1) [5] (#cite_note-5) References [ edit ] ^ a b c "İzmir'i dünyaya modayla tanıttı" (http://www.yeniasir.com.tr/Sarmasik/2010/02/02/izmiri_dunyaya_modayla_tanitti) . Yeni Asır. 2 February 2010. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130924075714/http://www.yeniasir.com.tr/Sarmasik/2010/02/02/izmiri_dunyaya_modayla_tanitti) from the original on 24 September 2013 . Retrieved 22 May 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Şırnak'ta defile şoku" (http://www.milliyet.com.tr/1998/05/26/yasam/yas06.html) . Milliyet (/wiki/Milliyet) . 26 May 1998. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20021018191803/http://www.milliyet.com.tr/1998/05/26/yasam/yas06.html) from the original on 18 October 2002 . Retrieved 22 May 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Modacı Hanife Çetiner vefat etti" (http://www.milliyet.com.tr/modaci-hanife-cetiner-vefat-etti/yasam/sondakika/10.01.2011/1337393/default.htm) . Milliyet. 10 January 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110116024633/http://www.milliyet.com.tr/modaci-hanife-cetiner-vefat-etti/yasam/sondakika/10.01.2011/1337393/default.htm) from the original on 16 January 2011 . Retrieved 22 May 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Güzellerin modacısı Çetiner'i sevenleri gözyaşlarıyla uğurladı" (http://www.yeniasir.com.tr/UcuncuSayfa/2011/01/14/guzellerin_modacisi_cetineri_sevenleri_gozyaslariyla_ugurladi) . Yeni Asır. 13 January 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110118031007/http://www.yeniasir.com.tr/UcuncuSayfa/2011/01/14/guzellerin_modacisi_cetineri_sevenleri_gozyaslariyla_ugurladi) from the original on 18 January 2011 . Retrieved 22 May 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Ormanlar yanmasın diye ateşsiz piknik" (http://www.milliyet.com.tr/default.aspx?aType=HaberDetay&Kategori=ege&ArticleID=875420&Date=12.06.2008) . 12 June 2008. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20080615234243/http://www.milliyet.com.tr/default.aspx?aType=HaberDetay&Kategori=ege&ArticleID=875420&Date=12.06.2008) from the original on 15 June 2008 . Retrieved 22 May 2012 . 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Indian beauty pageant titleholder Sini Shetty Shetty in 2024 Born Sini Sadanand Shetty Mumbai (/wiki/Mumbai) , Maharashtra, India Alma mater Somaiya Vidyavihar University (/wiki/Somaiya_Vidyavihar_University) Beauty pageant (/wiki/Beauty_pageant) titleholder Title Femina Miss India (/wiki/Femina_Miss_India) 2022 Major competition(s) Femina Miss India Karnataka 2022 (winner) Femina Miss India 2022 (winner) Miss World 2023 (/wiki/Miss_World_2023) (Top 8) Sini Sadanand Shetty is an Indian beauty pageant titleholder, who was crowned Femina Miss India (/wiki/Femina_Miss_India) World 2022. She represented India at Miss World 2023 (/wiki/Miss_World_2023) . Early life and education [ edit ] Sini Shetty was born in Mumbai (/wiki/Mumbai) , Maharashtra into a family originally from Karnataka. She attended St. Dominic Savio Vidhyalaya in Ghatkopar, Mumbai, followed by the SK Somaiya College of Arts, Science and Commerce in Mumbai from where she graduated with a degree in accounting and finance. She is a trained Bharatanatyam (/wiki/Bharatanatyam) dancer. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Pageantry [ edit ] Main article: Femina Miss India (/wiki/Femina_Miss_India) In 2022, Shetty competed in and won Femina Miss India, also winning, the Times Miss Body Beautiful and NIFD Miss Talent sub-title awards. The event took place on 3 July 2022 at Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai. [ citation needed ] As the winner of Femina Miss India World 2022, Shetty represented India at Miss World 2023 (/wiki/Miss_World_2023) , held on 9 March 2024 at Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai, India, [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) being recognized as Top 8, Best Designer Award in Asia and Oceania. [ citation needed ] References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Who is Sini Shetty, India's Miss World representative?" (https://www.deccanherald.com/national/who-is-sini-shetty-indias-miss-world-representative-1227069.html) . Deccan Herald . 12 June 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Sini Shetty To Represent India At Miss World 2023: 5 Facts" (https://www.ndtv.com/india-news/sini-shetty-to-represent-india-at-miss-world-2023-5-facts-4107440) . ndtv.com . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Who Is Sini Shetty, 21 Year Old Miss India 2022 Representing India At Miss World 2023" (https://www.india.com/women/who-is-sini-shetty-21-year-old-miss-india-2022-representing-india-at-miss-world-2023-6103394/) . india.com . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Meet Sini Shetty, Miss India 2022 who is all set to represent India in Miss World 2023" (https://www.dnaindia.com/lifestyle/report-meet-sini-shetty-miss-india-2022-who-is-all-set-to-represent-india-in-miss-world-2023-3047192) . Daily News and Analysis . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Sini Shetty, Femina Miss India 2022 Winner, To Represent India In Miss World 2023" (https://pragativadi.com/sini-shetty-femina-miss-india-2022-winner-to-represent-india-in-miss-world-2023/) . pragativadi.com . 11 June 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Meet Sini Shetty, 21-Year-Old Miss India 2022 Who Will Represent India in Miss World 2024" (https://www.news18.com/lifestyle/meet-sini-shetty-21-year-old-miss-india-2022-who-will-represent-india-in-miss-world-2023-8054269.html) . news18.com . 11 June 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-7) "India to host Miss World 2024 after 28 years. Sini Shetty to represent country" (https://www.moneycontrol.com/news/trends/miss-world-2023-india-to-host-after-27-years-sini-shetty-10769291.html) . moneycontrol.com . 9 June 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Miss India 2022 winner: Everything you wanted to know about Miss India World 2022 Sini Shetty" (https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/fashion/buzz/who-is-sini-shetty/articleshow/92646039.cms#:~:text=Sini's%20height%20is%205%20feet,weight%20is%2054%20kgs%20approx.) . The Times of India . 4 July 2022. External links [ edit ] Awards and achievements Preceded by Manasa Varanasi (/wiki/Manasa_Varanasi) Femina Miss India World (/wiki/Femina_Miss_India) 2022 (/wiki/Femina_Miss_India) Succeeded by Nandini Gupta (/wiki/Nandini_Gupta) Preceded by Rati Hulji Femina Miss India Karnataka (/wiki/Femina_Miss_India) 2022 Succeeded by Megan Edward v t e Indian Beauty Pageant Representatives 2013 Navneet Kaur Dhillon (/wiki/Navneet_Kaur_Dhillon) ( World (/wiki/Miss_World_2013) ) Manasi Moghe (/wiki/Manasi_Moghe) ( Universe (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2013) ) Gurleen Grewal (/wiki/Gurleen_Grewal) ( International (/wiki/Miss_International_2013) ) Sobhita Dhulipala (/wiki/Sobhita_Dhulipala) ( Earth (/wiki/Miss_Earth_2013) ) Vijaya Sharma (Supranational) Rupa Khurana (Grand International) Purva Rana (/wiki/Purva_Rana) (United Continents; Runner-up ) 2014 Koyal Rana (/wiki/Koyal_Rana) ( World (/wiki/Miss_World_2014) ) Noyonita Lodh (/wiki/Noyonita_Lodh) ( Universe (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2014) ) Jhataleka Malhotra (/wiki/Jhataleka_Malhotra) ( International (/wiki/Miss_International_2014) ) Alankrita Sahai ( Earth (/wiki/Miss_Earth_2014) ) Asha Bhat (/wiki/Asha_Bhat) (Supranational; 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Runner-up ) Vartika Singh (/wiki/Vartika_Singh) ( Universe (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2019) ) Simrithi Bathija (/wiki/Simrithi_Bathija) ( International (/wiki/Miss_International_2019) ) Tejaswini Manogna (/wiki/Tejaswini_Manogna) ( Earth (/wiki/Miss_Earth_2019) ) Shefali Sood ( Supranational (/wiki/Miss_Supranational_2019) ) Shivani Jadhav (/wiki/Shivani_Jadhav) (Grand International) Shreya Shanker (/wiki/Shreya_Shanker) (United Continents) 2020 Adline Castelino (/wiki/Adline_Castelino) ( Universe (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2020) ; Runner-up ) Tanvi Nitin Kharote ( Earth (/wiki/Miss_Earth_2020) ) Simran Sharma (Grand International) 2021 Manasa Varanasi (/wiki/Manasa_Varanasi) ( World (/wiki/Miss_World_2021) ) Harnaaz Sandhu (/wiki/Harnaaz_Sandhu) ( Universe (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2021) ; Winner ) Rashmi Madhuri ( Earth (/wiki/Miss_Earth_2021) ) Aavriti Choudhary (/wiki/Aavriti_Choudhary) ( Supranational (/wiki/Miss_Supranational_2021) ) Manika Sheokand (Grand International) 2022 Sini Sadanand Shetty ( World (/wiki/Miss_World_2022) ) Divita Rai (/wiki/Divita_Rai) ( Universe (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2022) ) Zoya Afroz (/wiki/Zoya_Afroz) ( International (/wiki/Miss_International_2022) ) Vanshika Parmar ( Earth (/wiki/Miss_Earth_2022) ) Ritika Khatnani ( Supranational (/wiki/Miss_Supranational_2022) ) Praachi Nagpal ( Grand International (/wiki/Miss_Grand_International_2022) ) 2023 ( Universe (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2023) ) (World) Kashish Methwani ( International (/wiki/Miss_International_2023) ) Pragnya Ayyagari ( Supranational (/wiki/Miss_Supranational_2023) ) (Grand International) Winners are in red colored text and Runners-up are in blue colored text v t e Miss World 2023 (/wiki/Miss_World_2023) national titleholders Kedist Deltour (/wiki/Kedist_Deltour) Lesego Chombo (/wiki/Lesego_Chombo) Leticía Frota (/wiki/Letic%C3%ADa_Frota) Camila Pinzón (/wiki/Camila_Pinz%C3%B3n) Lucija Begić (/wiki/Lucija_Begi%C4%87) Krystyna Pyszková (/wiki/Krystyna_Pyszkov%C3%A1) Clémence Botino (/wiki/Cl%C3%A9mence_Botino) Jessica Gagen (/wiki/Jessica_Gagen) Sini Shetty Yasmina Zaytoun (/wiki/Yasmina_Zaytoun) Wenanita Angang (/wiki/Wenanita_Angang) Priyanka Rani Joshi (/wiki/Priyanka_Rani_Joshi) Gwendolyne Fourniol (/wiki/Gwendolyne_Fourniol) Aché Abrahams (/wiki/Ach%C3%A9_Abrahams) Sofia Shamia (/wiki/Sofia_Shamia) Ariagny Daboín (/wiki/Ariagny_Dabo%C3%ADn) Huỳnh Nguyễn Mai Phương (/wiki/Hu%E1%BB%B3nh_Nguy%E1%BB%85n_Mai_Ph%C6%B0%C6%A1ng) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5d7f85459f‐6w6h6 Cached time: 20240715202832 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.469 seconds Real time usage: 0.659 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 5900/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 73800/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 8226/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 49898/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.285/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7082759/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 574.231 1 -total 25.96% 149.049 2 Template:Navbox 20.74% 119.105 1 Template:Infobox_pageant_titleholder 19.99% 114.773 1 Template:Reflist 16.99% 97.560 7 Template:Cite_web 13.66% 78.438 1 Template:Miss_World_2023_delegates 12.98% 74.525 1 Template:Indian_Beauty_Pageant_Representatives 12.73% 73.074 17 Template:Flagicon 10.74% 61.692 1 Template:Short_description 8.27% 47.494 43 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:71700760-0!canonical and timestamp 20240715202832 and revision id 1231862608. 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International animal rights organisation and cruelty-free cosmetic companies It has been suggested that this article should be split (/wiki/Wikipedia:Splitting) into articles titled Beauty Without Cruelty (South Africa) (/w/index.php?title=Beauty_Without_Cruelty_(South_Africa)&action=edit&redlink=1) and Beauty Without Cruelty (UK) (/w/index.php?title=Beauty_Without_Cruelty_(UK)&action=edit&redlink=1) . ( discuss (/wiki/Talk:Beauty_Without_Cruelty) ) ( March 2023 ) Beauty Without Cruelty (BWC) was founded as an educational charitable trust in England (/wiki/England) in 1959 by Muriel, the Lady Dowding (/wiki/Muriel_Dowding) (1908–1993), past president of the National Anti-Vivisection Society (/wiki/National_Anti-Vivisection_Society) (NAVS) and wife of Lord Dowding (/wiki/Lord_Dowding) (1882–1970), the former commander-in-chief of RAF Fighter Command (/wiki/RAF_Fighter_Command) during the Battle of Britain (/wiki/Battle_of_Britain) . [1] (#cite_note-1) It investigated and exposed the brutality inflicted on animals in the fur (/wiki/Fur_trade) and cosmetic trade (/wiki/Cosmetic_industry) and led the way in the commercial production of synthetic alternatives to fur (/wiki/Fur) and cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) , without the use of animal ingredients and not tested on animals, pioneering the cruelty-free (/wiki/Cruelty-free) movement. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) The initial fundamental purpose of the charitable trust was to demonstrate that alternatives to cruelly derived clothing and cosmetics were easily obtainable and, if they did not exist, to get them on the market. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) BWC spread the concept that one could easily look beautiful, without inflicting cruelty and death upon any creature. [4] (#cite_note-:2-4) In 1963, Dowding set up Beauty Without Cruelty Limited (BWC Ltd), the trading branch of the charity, so their cruelty-free cosmetics and other products, including simulated furs (/wiki/Fake_fur) could be sold. This later became a private company. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) The charity, now known as the BWC Charitable Trust, established branches in Australia (/wiki/Australia) , New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) , India (/wiki/India) , South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) , United States (/wiki/United_States) , [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Canada (/wiki/Canada) , [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) Scotland (/wiki/Scotland) , Wales (/wiki/Wales) , Ireland (/wiki/Ireland) , the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) , Kenya (/wiki/Kenya) , Rhodesia (/wiki/Rhodesia) , Japan (/wiki/Japan) , [5] (#cite_note-:4-5) Finland (/wiki/Finland) and Hong Kong (/wiki/Hong_Kong) . [6] (#cite_note-:5-6) The first Beauty Without Cruelty boutique (/wiki/Boutique) opened in central London (/wiki/Central_London) in 1965. [7] (#cite_note-:6-7) Currently two independently run BWC charitable organisations are in existence having expanded the scope of work: Beauty Without Cruelty – India and Beauty Without Cruelty (South Africa) . [8] (#cite_note-8) There are also two independent cruelty-free cosmetic companies: Beauty Without Cruelty in the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) and Beauty Without Cruelty in the United States. These are vegan (/wiki/Veganism) and continue to refuse to test their products on animals. BWC history [ edit ] Exposing cruelty in the fur trade [ edit ] Dowding, dedicated to the rights of animals (/wiki/Animal_rights) , was appalled by the suffering and cruelty involved in the production of fur coats and fur accessories, fashionable at the time. In 1959, she explored the alternatives to fur and set out to make known her findings to the wider public. With friends, Sylvia Barbanell (https://www.encyclopedia.com/science/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/barbanell-maurice-1902-1981) , Olive Burton (https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/A_Guide_to_Spirit_Healing.html?id=90rKMgEACAAJ&redir_esc=y) , Elspeth Douglas Reid (https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/dc952ae2-1a20-303a-9cfb-2956de5df90a?component=2e7487dd-7c89-3539-bd1a-f15304f9343f) , Dr Barbara Latto (https://ivu.org/members/council/barbara-latto.html) and Monica Latto drawn into the idea they formed a small volunteer committee to stage fashion shows (/wiki/Fashion_show) featuring simulated furs (/wiki/Fake_fur) bearing the label ‘ Beauty Without Cruelty ’. They exposed the cruelty behind the barbaric fur trade in order to change public opinion, whilst also demonstrating the suffering inflicted on animals. The first London (/wiki/London) fashion show caused much publicity and was a great success, leading to subsequent events in England. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) [4] (#cite_note-:2-4) People began writing to Dowding, and national papers, radio and television picked up on the story and the movement escalated, becoming clear that many were anxious to help. BWC tried to remain a movement, that worked alongside other animal welfare (/wiki/Animal_welfare) groups and organisations, not another society in competition with others. As interest grew, they began a periodical newsletter to keep in touch with their many supporters. [4] (#cite_note-:2-4) [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) BWC’s campaign to make fake furs socially acceptable and virtuous made an effective contribution to the development of fake fur, as each season brought advances to the quality of their fabrics. [10] (#cite_note-10) Exposing cruelty in the cosmetic industry [ edit ] Alongside BWC’s exposure of the fur trade, Dowding brought the public’s attention to the use of animal ingredients in cosmetics, which were obtained in no less of a cruel and ruthless manner. She learnt a closely guarded trade secret, that cosmetic companies (/wiki/Cosmetic_industry) also tested their products on animals (/wiki/Animal_testing) , on a very large scale, often in horrific ways. [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) This knowledge led to an important part of BWC’s early work, examining claims made by manufacturers that their products were free from cruelty (/wiki/Cruelty-free) . Cosmetic products, where necessary were tested and analysed by BWC’s technical adviser, a well-known cosmetic chemist, Mr. F. V. Wells (https://scs.org.uk/scs-officers-past-presidents-and-honorary-members/) and cosmetic analyst Dr. G. N. James, as at that time no labelling requirements were laid down for cosmetics contents, although manufactured foodstuff (/wiki/Convenience_food) required this by law. BWC published these findings in a brochure, More Than Skin Deep , itemising beauty and household products (/wiki/Household_goods) available on the market, not tested on animals or containing animal ingredients, other than beeswax (/wiki/Beeswax) , honey or lanolin (/wiki/Lanolin) , along with non-leather (/wiki/Artificial_leather) shoes, gloves and handbags, allowing the consumer to buy with a clear conscience. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) [11] (#cite_note-:7-11) BWC (U.S.A.) later followed suit publishing its own guide listing cruelty-free companies. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Following Dowding’s failed attempt to persuade cosmetic firms to create a range of cosmetics that did not involve any cruelty to animals, a BWC committee member and former chemist (/wiki/Chemist) , Kathleen Long (/w/index.php?title=Katherine_Long_(cosmetician)&action=edit&redlink=1) , who had made cosmetics for friends during the war, created their first cruelty-free creme formula, which was made up by John Bell & Croyden (/wiki/John_Bell_%26_Croyden) . The minimal profit made from this was ploughed back into making the next product and so on. Eventually through trial and error, Long, on behalf of BWC, developed the first full range of cruelty-free cosmetics, created from the finest oils and essences of plants, herbs and flowers. [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) [12] (#cite_note-12) Long continued working with BWC until her death in 1970. [13] (#cite_note-13) According to Dowding, BWC pioneered the production of 100 percent vegetable soap (/wiki/Vegetable_soap) as a luxury item. [14] (#cite_note-14) In 1963, a solicitor Noel Gabriel, as a gift, converted BWC into a registered educational charitable trust as he noticed they were doing something which no other organisation in the animal welfare movement was doing, enabling them to have members whose fees would pay for the running costs and help Dowding pay for the increased secretarial support required for the movement’s rapid growth. As charities could not enter trade, he also created a limited company (/wiki/Limited_company) , Beauty Without Cruelty Ltd , under which the cruelty-free products they promoted and manufactured could be sold. [15] (#cite_note-15) All profits from the cruelty-free sales went back to the charity. [16] (#cite_note-16) BWC expansion [ edit ] Dowding searched unsuccessfully for a shop that would have a Beauty Without Cruelty counter, due to the conflict of interest with many of the established cosmetic firms. [17] (#cite_note-:8-17) In 1963, a small BWC boutique was opened in a committee member’s garage (/wiki/Garage_(residential)) in Bayswater (/wiki/Bayswater) , London, selling the cruelty- free products. [18] (#cite_note-18) [17] (#cite_note-:8-17) In 1965, BWC bought and opened its first boutique at 49 Upper Montagu Street, London. [7] (#cite_note-:6-7) Affiliated branches began opening boutiques in Britain enabling more people access to cruelty-free clothes and cosmetics. [11] (#cite_note-:7-11) A quarterly journal, Compassion , covered BWC’s activities and published articles on kindred subjects in the wider humanitarian (/wiki/Humanitarianism) field. [9] (#cite_note-:3-9) A kinship with all forms of life was encouraged. The public was reached through newspaper and magazine articles, television and radio in Britain and abroad. Fashion and film shows, exhibitions and public meetings were held. Council members and other qualified speakers addressed interested societies and organisations. [11] (#cite_note-:7-11) By 1962, BWC had established branches in Australia (/wiki/Australia) , Japan (/wiki/Japan) , the United States (/wiki/United_States) and New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) , [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) and Canada (/wiki/Canada) in 1963. [19] (#cite_note-19) In the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) , a Northern and a Scottish branch started in 1965. The Rhodesian (/wiki/Rhodesia) and South African (/wiki/South_Africa) branch began in 1966, and a Welsh (/wiki/Wales) branch in 1967. [20] (#cite_note-20) In 1973, Dr. Ethel Thurston (https://alternativestoanimalresearch.org/afaar/ethel-thurston) founded a United States branch in New York (/wiki/New_York_City) . [21] (#cite_note-21) A BWC branch in India (/wiki/India) was started in 1974. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) [5] (#cite_note-:4-5) By 1975, there were branches set up in Durban (/wiki/Durban) , Pretoria (/wiki/Pretoria) and Cape Town (/wiki/Cape_Town) in South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) , Kenya (/wiki/Kenya) , the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) , Ireland (/wiki/Ireland) and further United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) branches in Lancashire (/wiki/Lancashire) , Leeds (/wiki/Leeds) , East Midlands (/wiki/East_Midlands) , Edinburgh (/wiki/Edinburgh) and Glasgow (/wiki/Glasgow) . [5] (#cite_note-:4-5) Finland (/wiki/Finland) began its own branch in 1978 and Hong Kong (/wiki/Hong_Kong) in 1981. [6] (#cite_note-:5-6) In 1969, BWC became associated with Compassion in World Farming (/wiki/Compassion_in_World_Farming) . [22] (#cite_note-22) [23] (#cite_note-23) BWC was supported by its president Lord Dowding (/wiki/Hugh_Dowding) and vice presidents, who included Michaela Denis (/wiki/Michaela_Denis) , Spike Milligan (/wiki/Spike_Milligan) and his wife Patricia Ridgeway (Paddy), Brigid Brophy (/wiki/Brigid_Brophy) , Maureen Duffy (/wiki/Maureen_Duffy) , Tony Britton (/wiki/Tony_Britton) , Grace Cooke (/w/index.php?title=Grace_Cooke&action=edit&redlink=1) , Rupert Davies, Harry Edwards (/wiki/Harry_Edwards_(healer)) , Dr. Richard St. Barbe Baker (/wiki/Richard_St._Barbe_Baker) , Eva Batt, [5] (#cite_note-:4-5) Rukmini Devi Arundale (/wiki/Rukmini_Devi_Arundale) , Patrick Moore (/wiki/Patrick_Moore) and others. [24] (#cite_note-24) Models gathered to support BWC fashion shows. In 1970, Dowding asked former top fur model Celia Hammond (/wiki/Celia_Hammond) to observe the seal cull (/wiki/Seal_hunting) off the Gulf of St Lawrence (/wiki/Gulf_of_St._Lawrence) , Canada, to help raise awareness on behalf of BWC. [25] (#cite_note-:9-25) [26] (#cite_note-26) Due to the rapid growth in demand for BWC cosmetics, which caused considerable production problems, Dowding’s son, David Whiting became marketing and production director of BWC Ltd in early 1970 until 1973. [27] (#cite_note-27) Whiting also led BWC in expanding its activities, by launching international investigations into the illegal trade and cruel exploitation of animals. Reports in the press dubbed him ‘The Animal Spy’, as he made the hard facts of the poaching, smuggling, slaughter and abuse of animals for the fashion and cosmetic’s industry freely available to the public and industry alike. [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) The cosmetic company was later taken over by Grenville Hawkins and Joseph Piccioni (/w/index.php?title=Joseph_Piccioni&action=edit&redlink=1) . [25] (#cite_note-:9-25) Later, in 1978, Piccioni became the managing director of BWC Ltd in Great Britain. [ citation needed ] With his business expertise and dedication to animal rights, Piccioni helped lead BWC Ltd to launch its lines in the United States in 1989. [31] (#cite_note-31) In 1979, Dr Ethel Thurston, head of BWC (U.S.A.) coordinated a week of anti-fur protests in New York, with guests Lady Dowding and actress Gretchen Wyler (/wiki/Gretchen_Wyler) , to coincide with the American International Fur Fair. The effort is remembered as the beginning of the United States anti-fur movement. [32] (#cite_note-32) Dowding remained director of BWC Ltd until shortly before the educational charitable trust and the cosmetics company became separate organisations in 1980. [33] (#cite_note-33) Dowding resigned as president from BWC in 1981. [34] (#cite_note-34) The BWC (UK) charity closed in 2002. [35] (#cite_note-35) BWC today [ edit ] BWC Charities [ edit ] Beauty Without Cruelty - India was established by Diana Ratnagar in 1974 as an educational charitable trust, initially focusing on the commercial exploitation of animals for fashion, beauty and household goods. Over the years it has expanded its activities to cover animal cruelty in the name of food, medicine, entertainment, trade, genetic engineering or for any other purpose, through research, fact-finding, investigation through fieldwork, documentation, reports and publication, along with education, creating public awareness, campaigning and lobbying. Their motto is: "Beauty Without Cruelty is a way of life which causes no creature of land, sea or air terror, torture or death". Beauty Without Cruelty (South Africa) was established in 1975 as an animal issues charity. Its initial focus was animal testing, fur and ivory. It has subsequently expanded to include educating and offering kind options in all areas of animal exploitation. Beauty Without Cruelty is an animal rights organisation with a primary objective to educate and inform the public about the exploitation, abuse and suffering of all animals and to offer humane, non-animal alternatives, to replace cruel and harmful lifestyle choices. They receive no government or lottery funding and rely entirely on the generosity of supporters to continue work for animals. Beauty Without Cruelty means living without cruelty. BWC Cosmetics [ edit ] Beauty Without Cruelty is an independent British company that manufactures vegan (/wiki/Vegan) cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) . The cosmetics contain no animal products (/wiki/Animal_product) , and are not tested on animals (/wiki/Tested_on_animals) and are a certified member of the Vegan Society (/wiki/The_Vegan_Society) and Cruelty Free International (/wiki/Cruelty_Free_International) . Beauty Without Cruelty is also an independent company in the United States that continues to produce a full line of cruelty-free, vegan skin, body and haircare products. BWC's products are free of parabens, gluten, S.L.S, PEG, toluene, formaldehyde and phthalates. Although millions of animals are killed each year as a result of animal testing of cosmetics, Beauty Without Cruelty advocates animal rights and argues that the results of animal testing are often unreliable and can not be applied to humans. [36] (#cite_note-36) BWC focuses on vegan and "natural" products that cannot chemically harm humans and do not need to be tested on animals. [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-38) BWC has worked to support the Humane Cosmetics Act (/wiki/Humane_Cosmetics_Act) on its mission to end cosmetic animal testing in the United States. [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) Publications [ edit ] Compassion (UK headquarters). Quarterly journal. 1962 - late 1990's. Compassionate Friend (BWC India) (https://www.bwcindia.org/Web/QuarterlyJournal/QuarterlyJournal2021-2025.html) . English quarterly journal. 1977 - date. Karuna-Mitre (BWC India) (https://www.bwcindia.org/Web/QuarterlyJournal/QuarterlyJournal2021-2025.html) . Hindi quarterly journal. 2011 - date. More Than Skin Deep (BWC UK). 1966, 1975. Brochure compiling lists of firms and their products entirely free from cruelty to animals. See also [ edit ] List of animal rights advocates (/wiki/List_of_animal_rights_advocates) List of vegetarian and vegan companies (/wiki/List_of_vegetarian_and_vegan_companies) Testing cosmetics on animals (/wiki/Testing_cosmetics_on_animals) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Linzey, Andrew (/wiki/Andrew_Linzey) . "Dowding, Lady Muriel," Encyclopedia of Animal Rights and Animal Welfare . Greenwood, 1998, p. 139. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Stepaniak, Joanne (/wiki/Joanne_Stepaniak) . The Vegan Sourcebook . McGraw-Hill Professional (/wiki/McGraw_Hill_Education) , 2000, pp. 123–124. ^ Jump up to: a b c "Beauty Without Cruelty". The Times (/wiki/The_Times) . 19 October 1964. ^ Jump up to: a b c Dowding, Muriel (1962). "Beauty Without Cruelty. How it all began" (https://issuu.com/vegan_society/docs/the-vegan-summer-1962) . The Vegan (Summer 1962). The Vegan Society (/wiki/The_Vegan_Society) : 7–10 – via ISSUU. ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Beauty Without Cruelty (International)". Compassion: The Official Journal of Beauty Without Cruelty (Dec 1975 - Mar 1976). 1976. ^ Jump up to: a b "Beauty Without Cruelty (International)". Compassion: The Official Journal of Beauty Without Cruelty (Spring/Summer 1981). 1981. ^ Jump up to: a b Batt, Eva (1965). "A new boutique" (https://issuu.com/vegan_society/docs/the-vegan-autumn-1965---21st-anniversary-issue) . The Vegan (Autumn 1965). The Vegan Society (/wiki/The_Vegan_Society) : 30–31. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "History" (https://www.bwcindia.org/Web/AboutUs/History.html) . Beauty Without Cruelty - India . Retrieved 2024-02-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Berry, Rynn (/wiki/Rynn_Berry) (1993). "Muriel, the Lady Dowding". The New Vegetarians . Pythagorean Publishers. pp. 137–151. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780962616907 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Polan, Brenda (17 January 1979). "More women turn to fake fur" (https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2014/jan/17/fur-fashion-real-fake#:~:text=If%20diamonds%20have%20always%20been,thing%20of%20guilt%20and%20peril.) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Retrieved 2024-02-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Dowding, Hugh (1971). "Foreward and Our Purposes". More Than Skin Deep (Updated brochure). ^ (#cite_ref-12) Elvin, Rene (21 February 1966). "Buying Beauty Without the Beast". The Times (/wiki/The_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Whiting, David (1971). "Kathleen Long". Compassion: The Official Journal of Beauty Without Cruelty (Sept 1970 - Jan 1971). ^ (#cite_ref-14) Muriel the Lady Dowding. "Furs and Cosmetics: Too High a Price?" in Stanley Godlovitch, Roslind Godlovitch, and John Harris (eds.). Animals, Men and Morals (/wiki/Animals,_Men_and_Morals) . Victor Gollancz, 1971, p. 39. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Dowding, Muriel (1980). Beauty Not the Beast . Neville Spearman. p. 170. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780859780568 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Goodman, Paula (1 February 1972). "Looks that kill...". Reading Evening Post (/wiki/Reading_Evening_Post) . ^ Jump up to: a b Dowding, Muriel (1963). "A Step Forward". Compassion: The Official Journal of Beauty Without Cruelty (Spring 1963). ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Minks are not appreciated". The Daily Express (/wiki/The_Daily_Express) . 17 January 1963. ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Beauty Without Cruelty". Compassion: The Official Journal of Beauty Without Cruelty (Spring 1963). 1963. ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Beauty Without Cruelty". Compassion: The Official Journal of Beauty Without Cruelty (Spring 1965, Spring 1966, Spring 1967). ^ (#cite_ref-21) "AFAAR Founder. Ethel Thurston" (https://alternativestoanimalresearch.org/) . American Fund for Alternatives to Animal Research . Retrieved 2024-02-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Beauty Without Cruelty". Compassion: The Official Journal of Beauty Without Cruelty (Summer 1969). 1969. ^ (#cite_ref-23) Allen, Margeret (19 August 1981). "Under your skin". The Times (/wiki/The_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Beauty Without Cruelty". Compassion: The Official Journal of Beauty Without Cruelty (Autumn 1878). 1978. ^ Jump up to: a b Long, Alan (23 November 1993). "Obituary. Muriel Dowding. A lioness who wore fake fur". The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Celia Hammond. Where it all started" (https://www.celiahammond.org/index.php/about-us/celia-hammond-charity-founder) . celiahammond.org . Retrieved 2024-02-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Londoner's Diary. Career change". The Evening Standard (/wiki/The_Evening_Standard) . 4 September 1970. ^ (#cite_ref-28) Neustatter, Angela (2 March 1976). "A world without fur". The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Game for smugglers". The Daily Mirror (/wiki/The_Daily_Mirror) . 20 November 1979. ^ (#cite_ref-30) Nichol, John (1987). "The People". The Animal Smugglers . Christopher Helm (/wiki/Christopher_Helm) . pp. 144–146. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0816018345 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "The History of Beauty Without Cruelty" (http://www.beautywithoutcruelty.com/bio.html) , Beauty Without Cruelty, accessed 2 December 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-32) Forest, Dylan (1994). "Obituaries. Muriel, The Lady Dowding" (https://newspaper.animalpeopleforum.org/1994/01/01/obituaries-112/) . Animal People - News For People Who Care About Animals . animalpeopleforum.org . Retrieved 2024-02-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Piccioni, Joseph (2 December 1993). "Obituary: Muriel Dowding". The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Obituary. Muriel Lady Dowding". The Times (/wiki/The_Times) . 24 November 1993. ^ (#cite_ref-35) "Beauty Without Cruelty" (https://register-of-charities.charitycommission.gov.uk/charity-search/-/charity-details/222884/governance) . Charity Commission for England and Wales . Retrieved 2024-02-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) "OneKind Beauty \| OneKind" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150928022302/http://www.onekind.org/live_onekind/onekind_beauty) . Archived from the original (http://www.onekind.org/live_onekind/onekind_beauty/) on 2015-09-28 . Retrieved 2015-11-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "Companies that still test on animals (and associated brands)" (http://www.thevegetariansite.com/ethics_test.htm) . Retrieved 2019-10-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Chandaraju, Aruna (2011-04-30). "Beauty without cruelty" (https://www.thehindu.com/features/magazine/beauty-without-cruelty/article1980782.ece) . The Hindu . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0971-751X (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0971-751X) . Retrieved 2019-06-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) McSally, Martha (2015-06-26). "H.R.2858 - 114th Congress (2015-2016): Humane Cosmetics Act" (https://www.congress.gov/bill/114th-congress/house-bill/2858) . www.congress.gov . Retrieved 2019-06-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Ending Cosmetics Animal Testing" (https://www.humanesociety.org/all-our-fights/ending-cosmetics-animal-testing) . The Humane Society of the United States . Retrieved 2019-06-26 . External links [ edit ] Beauty Without Cruelty - India (https://www.bwcindia.org/) Beauty Without Cruelty South Africa (https://bwcsa.co.za/) Beauty Without Cruelty Cosmetics UK (https://www.bwcshop.com/) Beauty Without Cruelty Cosmetics USA (https://www.beautywithoutcruelty.com/) What Price Beauty? 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(/wiki/What_is_Vegetarianism%3F) (1886) Shelley's Vegetarianism (/wiki/Shelley%27s_Vegetarianism) (1891) Behind the Scenes in Slaughter-Houses (/wiki/Behind_the_Scenes_in_Slaughter-Houses) (1892) Why I Am a Vegetarian (/wiki/Why_I_Am_a_Vegetarian) (1895) Figs or Pigs? (/wiki/Figs_or_Pigs%3F) (1896) Fifty Years of Food Reform (/wiki/Fifty_Years_of_Food_Reform) (1898) Thirty-nine Reasons Why I Am a Vegetarian (/wiki/Thirty-nine_Reasons_Why_I_Am_a_Vegetarian) (1903) The Meat Fetish (/wiki/The_Meat_Fetish) (1904) The New Ethics (/wiki/The_New_Ethics) (1907) A Fleshless Diet (/wiki/A_Fleshless_Diet) (1910) The Benefits of Vegetarianism (/wiki/The_Benefits_of_Vegetarianism) (1927) Living the Good Life (/wiki/Living_the_Good_Life) (1954) Ten Talents (/wiki/Ten_Talents_(cookbook)) (1968) Diet for a Small Planet (/wiki/Diet_for_a_Small_Planet) (1971) The Vegetarian Epicure (/wiki/The_Vegetarian_Epicure) (1972) Moosewood Collective Cookbooks (/wiki/Moosewood_Restaurant) (1973) The Farm Vegetarian Cookbook (/wiki/The_Farm_Vegetarian_Cookbook) (1975) Laurel's Kitchen (/wiki/Laurel%27s_Kitchen) (1976) Moosewood Cookbook (/wiki/Moosewood_Cookbook) (1977) Fit for Life (/wiki/Fit_for_Life) (1985) Diet for a New America (/wiki/Diet_for_a_New_America) (1987) The Sexual Politics of Meat (/wiki/The_Sexual_Politics_of_Meat) (1990) Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone (/wiki/Vegetarian_Cooking_for_Everyone) (1997) The China Study (/wiki/The_China_Study) (2005) Skinny Bitch (/wiki/Skinny_Bitch) (2005) Livestock's Long Shadow (/wiki/Livestock%27s_Long_Shadow) (2006) The Bloodless Revolution (/wiki/The_Bloodless_Revolution_(book)) (2006) Eating Animals (/wiki/Eating_Animals) (2009) Why We Love Dogs, Eat Pigs, and Wear Cows (/wiki/Why_We_Love_Dogs,_Eat_Pigs,_and_Wear_Cows) (2009) The Vegan Studies Project (/wiki/The_Vegan_Studies_Project) (2015) Animal (De)liberation (/wiki/Animal_(De)liberation) (2016) The End of Animal Farming (/wiki/The_End_of_Animal_Farming) (2018) Vegetable Kingdom (/wiki/Vegetable_Kingdom:_The_Abundant_World_of_Vegan_Recipes) (2020) Making a Stand for Animals (/wiki/Making_a_Stand_for_Animals) (2022) Meat Atlas (/wiki/Meat_Atlas) (annual) Films and shows The Animals Film (/wiki/The_Animals_Film) (1981) Diet for a New America (film) (/wiki/Diet_for_a_New_America_(film)) (1991) A Cow at My Table (/wiki/A_Cow_at_My_Table) (1998) Meet Your Meat (/wiki/Meet_Your_Meat) (2002) Post Punk Kitchen (/wiki/Post_Punk_Kitchen) (2003–2005) Peaceable Kingdom (/wiki/Peaceable_Kingdom_(film)) (2004) Earthlings (/wiki/Earthlings_(film)) (2005) A Sacred Duty (/wiki/A_Sacred_Duty) (2007) Fat, Sick and Nearly Dead (/wiki/Fat,_Sick_and_Nearly_Dead) (2010) Planeat (/wiki/Planeat) (2010) Forks Over Knives (/wiki/Forks_Over_Knives) (2011) Vegucated (/wiki/Vegucated) (2011) Live and Let Live (/wiki/Live_and_Let_Live_(2013_film)) (2013) Cowspiracy (/wiki/Cowspiracy) (2014) PlantPure Nation (/wiki/PlantPure_Nation) (2015) What the Health (/wiki/What_the_Health) (2017) Carnage (/wiki/Carnage_(2017_film)) (2017) Dominion (/wiki/Dominion_(2018_film)) (2018) Eating You Alive (/wiki/Eating_You_Alive) (2018) The Game Changers (/wiki/The_Game_Changers) (2018) You Are What You Eat: A Twin Experiment (/wiki/You_Are_What_You_Eat:_A_Twin_Experiment) (2024) Magazines Naked Food (/wiki/Naked_Food) Satya (/wiki/Satya_(magazine)) Vegetarian Times (/wiki/Vegetarian_Times) VegNews (/wiki/VegNews) The Animals' Agenda (/wiki/The_Animals%27_Agenda) Academics, activists, authors, physicians Vegan Elisa Aaltola (/wiki/Elisa_Aaltola) Carol J. 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Lightweight brassiere for people who have begun to develop breasts Not to be confused with Sports bra (/wiki/Sports_bra) . A Fruit of the Loom (/wiki/Fruit_of_the_Loom) training bra A training bra (also trainer bra , starter bra , or first bra ) is a lightweight brassiere (/wiki/Brassiere) designed for girls who have begun to develop breasts (/wiki/Breast) , at Tanner (/wiki/Tanner_scale) stage II and III. The training bra is intended to be worn during puberty (/wiki/Puberty) when the breasts are not yet large enough to fit a standard-sized bra. Training bras often provide minimal or no support, and may serve aesthetic purposes to fulfill cultural norms and local beauty standards. [ citation needed ] Training bras are usually made of a lightweight material. They are unlined and feature a soft, elastic bra band and soft bra cups. Some have begun wearing sports bras (/wiki/Sports_bra) , which are similar in construction, as their first bra. [1] (#cite_note-1) Prior to the marketing of training bras in the 1960s, a preteen or young teen in Western countries usually wore a camisole (/wiki/Camisole) . Receiving one's first bra may be seen as a long-awaited rite of passage (/wiki/Rite_of_passage) in one's life, [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-mitchell-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) signifying one's coming of age (/wiki/Coming_of_age) . [5] (#cite_note-desantis-5) [6] (#cite_note-pitts-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) Bras for pre-teens and those entering puberty were first marketed during the early 20th century, [9] (#cite_note-9) and sales spiked in the 1950s and 1960s. [10] (#cite_note-brumberg-10) Styles [ edit ] Training bras are usually a lightweight, soft-cup design, unlined, and may resemble a crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) . They are often made of a mixed cotton (/wiki/Cotton) spandex (/wiki/Spandex) or cotton Lycra (/wiki/Lycra) fabric with thin straps and elastic under the growing breasts to hold the garment in place. Training bras may be sold in small, medium, and large sizes, [11] (#cite_note-aol-11) and may be used to conceal nipples and breast buds under outerwear. [12] (#cite_note-12) Some are built into camisoles. They are made in a variety of colors and prints, including lace. As the breasts continue to develop, usually around Tanner stage III (/wiki/Tanner_scale) , regular bras are available in sizes 30AAA to 38B. [13] (#cite_note-13) The initial training bras offer little if any actual support. [11] (#cite_note-aol-11) Some styles are padded to hide developing breast buds or to increase the perceived size of the breasts. [11] (#cite_note-aol-11) History [ edit ] Prior to the 1950s, girls in Western countries (/wiki/Western_world) typically wore undershirts until their breasts were large enough to fit an adult bra. During the 1940s and 1950s, Western media created a "mammary fixation" that shaped teen perceptions of breast size. Boys noticed girls who were more "busty," and particularly American girls were more aware of breast size and their weight. [10] (#cite_note-brumberg-10) Popular American culture in the 1950s was notable for its focus on full-breasted women like Lana Turner (/wiki/Lana_Turner) and Jane Russell (/wiki/Jane_Russell) . [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) The emphasis on the female figure came from several sources: girls wanted bras at an earlier age than ever before, while their mothers felt they should help their daughters develop a "good" figure; doctors who valued maternity over all other female roles; and companies who saw a profit in persuading girls and their parents that adolescent breasts needed support. [10] (#cite_note-brumberg-10) In some social circles, a girl's ability to fill a bra became central to her status and sense of self. [10] (#cite_note-brumberg-10) During the 1950s, doctors in the United States wrote that teen girls needed to wear a bra to prevent sagging (/wiki/Ptosis_(breasts)) breasts, poor circulation, and stretched blood vessels. [10] (#cite_note-brumberg-10) In magazines like Seventeen (/wiki/Seventeen_(American_magazine)) and Compact , adolescent girls were encouraged to purchase undergarments like "Bobbie" bras, Formfit (/wiki/Formfit) girdles, and "Adagio" by Maidenform (/wiki/Maidenform) that were "teen-proportioned". [10] (#cite_note-brumberg-10) It became common in the 1950s for pre-teen girls in the United States to begin wearing training bras even though their breasts were too small to actually require support. [6] (#cite_note-pitts-6) The American Academy of Pediatricians published Puberty: Information for Boys and Girls in 2002. In it, they advised girls: [16] (#cite_note-kopala-16) As your breasts develop, you may need a bra. Some girls feel that wearing a bra for the first time is exciting—it is the first step toward becoming a woman! However, some girls feel embarrassed, especially if they are among the first of their friends to need a bra. If the people around you make a bigger deal of your first bra than you would like, try to remember that they do not mean to embarrass you, they are just proud of how much you have grown. [original emphasis] The author points out that young girls are socialized to be more concerned about what other people think about their wearing a bra rather than their own feelings. [16] (#cite_note-kopala-16) As a result, young girls may be anxious to acquire their first training bra before their breasts actually need support, if only for social purposes. Girls are then faced with the challenge of keeping current and wearing the latest, fashionable bra. Some young girls avoid wearing a bra, fearing an end to their childhood freedoms, such as going topless. Girls who develop breasts earlier than their peers may be sensitive to comments and teasing. Because bras are built to manufacturers' standards, if the girl's body does not conform to the shape and size of the bra, she may blame herself. [3] (#cite_note-mitchell-3) Firm, upright breasts are typical of youth. [17] (#cite_note-17) As such, they may not physically require the support of a bra. A pencil test (/wiki/Pencil_test_(breasts)) , developed by Ann Landers (/wiki/Ann_Landers) , has sometimes been promoted as a criterion to determine whether a girl should begin wearing a bra: a pencil is placed under the breast, and if it stays in place by itself, then wearing a bra is recommended; if it falls to the ground, it is not. [18] (#cite_note-Communications1975-18) [19] (#cite_note-Vanity_fair-19) Oleg Cassini (/wiki/Oleg_Cassini) made a provocative "Room at the Top Bra" in nylon and Lycra spandex for Peter Pan (/wiki/Peter_Pan) . In the early 1960s, bra makers marketed to girls 13–19, and later in '60s they targeted pre-teen girls age 10–12. New labels like Teenform, Teencharm, and Heaventeen catered to their market. Some companies' advertisements showed girls waist up wearing only a bra. Mercy Dobell, editor of Corset and Underwear Review , wrote that "the bra has joined lipstick and 'heels' in becoming one of the beloved symbols of growing up." [20] (#cite_note-farrell-20) : 151 Mass media encourages teens and tweens to begin wearing lingerie at a younger age, before or as soon as their breasts begin to develop, as a way to advertise their sexuality. [3] (#cite_note-mitchell-3) The DeBevoise Company in 1904 ran an advertisement for the "bosom supporter" and named it "brassiere" for the New York advertisement copy. The term brassiere is a Norman French word to describe a child's undershirt. [21] (#cite_note-encyclopedia.com-21) Two weeks after the advertisement, the Norman French term "brassiere" became popular in the United States of America. [21] (#cite_note-encyclopedia.com-21) Social issues [ edit ] The design of some training bras do not provide actual support of any kind, and may serve aesthetic purposes to fulfill cultural norms and local beauty standards. [22] (#cite_note-22) Young pubescent (/wiki/Puberty) girls may have ambivalent feelings around the experience of buying and wearing their first bra. Some girls avoid wearing a bra because it means they must deal with teasing and other issues with the onset of puberty. Other girls welcome the experience of being able to show the appearance of a bra through their clothes. [23] (#cite_note-23) The young girl may feel pressured to wear a bra before she actually needs any support so she can "fit in". Once she begins to wear a bra, she may also be pressured to wear clothing that makes her appear older than she is. [3] (#cite_note-mitchell-3) Girls may experience the opportunity to begin wearing a bra with mixed feelings. On one hand, they may feel "grown up", but with that status comes a host of expectations about keeping up with the latest styles or colors. Some girls hesitate to accept that some of their childhood freedoms, like going without a shirt or engaging in certain kinds of boyish activities, may be ending. [3] (#cite_note-mitchell-3) Some girls are embarrassed about wearing a bra and resist parental pressure to take this step, turning the event into a potentially traumatic experience. If a girl is one of the first or one of the last among her peers to begin wearing a bra, she may be teased. Some welcome and others dislike the new attention they receive because they are wearing a bra. Because bras are mass-produced to fit industry standards, a young girl may not understand that an ill-fitting bra is not her fault and may blame herself, thinking something is wrong with her body. [3] (#cite_note-mitchell-3) Opposition to training bras [ edit ] Training bras and the age at which girls first wear bras is sometimes controversial. Some people regard training bras as a way to sexualize (/wiki/Sexualization) young girls, and that training bras serve no functional purpose, that businesses benefit financially from, and even encourage, precocious sexuality in girls by exploiting their fears about self-image and social norms. [10] (#cite_note-brumberg-10) Still, others recognize developing tissue in breasts as sensitive and, at times, needing cover to maintain comfort, even if only psychological, for the wearer. [24] (#cite_note-breastdev-24) Bra opponents believe that training bras are used to indoctrinate girls into thinking about their breasts as sexual objects. In their view, bras are not functional undergarments but simply exist to make the body more sexually appealing. [25] (#cite_note-young-25) They believe that training bras exploit young girls and encourage precocious sexuality. [26] (#cite_note-26) Within Western cultures that place great value upon youth, bras are marketed to emphasize their ability to preserve a youthful appearance. The design of fashionable rather than solely functional bras [27] (#cite_note-27) has been influenced by changing fashions in outerwear and undergarments. The bra is sometimes viewed as an icon of popular culture that eroticizes girls' breasts as sexual objects. [3] (#cite_note-mitchell-3) Marketing to young girls [ edit ] This section needs to be updated . Please help update this article to reflect recent events or newly available information. ( June 2023 ) In 2006, Target (/wiki/Target_Corporation) stores began stocking Bratz (/wiki/Bratz) bras and others for 3- to 4-year-olds, Saddle Club (/wiki/The_Saddle_Club) bras for 4- to 6-year-olds, and a padded Target brand bra for 8- to 10-year-olds. In the same year, Bonds (/wiki/Bonds_(company)) released the "My First T-Shirt Bra", aimed at girls aged 8 and up, with Australian retailer Big W (/wiki/Big_W) adding a Just Girls padded bra for 8- to 10-year-olds and a My Little Pony (/wiki/My_Little_Pony) -themed bra for 2- to 3-year-olds around the same time. A Sydney clothing company called Hot Springs offers Lil' Bratz themed "tiny" bras. [28] (#cite_note-28) See also [ edit ] Bralette (/wiki/Bralette) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Breasts and Bras (for Kids) - Nemours KidsHealth" (https://kidshealth.org/en/kids/breasts-bras.html) . Kidshealth.org . Retrieved 7 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Why Millennials are going braless (the reasons might surprise you)" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180915122518/https://chicago.suntimes.com/health/why-millennials-are-going-braless-the-reasons-might-surprise-you/) . Chicago Sun-Times . May 21, 2018. Archived from the original (https://chicago.suntimes.com/health/why-millennials-are-going-braless-the-reasons-might-surprise-you/) on 15 September 2018 . Retrieved 15 September 2018 . ^ a b c d e f g Mitchell, Claudia A.; Reid-Walsh, Jacqueline (2008). "Bra" (https://books.google.com/books?id=GXgKXNFbQNYC&pg=PA198) . Girl Culture: An Encyclopedia, Volume 1 . Greenwood. pp. 198–199. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-313-33909-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Buying Your Preteen Her First Bra" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111108025127/http://www.tweenparent.com/articles/view/123) . TweenParent.com. Archived from the original (http://www.tweenparent.com/articles/view/123) on 8 November 2011 . Retrieved 17 November 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-desantis_5-0) DeSantis, Violette. "The First Bra" (http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art48877.asp) . Retrieved 12 February 2009 . ^ a b Pitts-Taylor, Victoria (2008). Cultural Encyclopedia of the Body . Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press. p. 43 (https://archive.org/details/culturalencyclop00pitt_226/page/n82) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-313-34146-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Teen Girl's First Bra" (http://lingerie.lovetoknow.com/Teen_Girl%27s_First_Bra) . lovetoknow.com . Retrieved July 7, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) DeSantis, Violette. "The First Bra" (http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art48877.asp) . Retrieved 12 February 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Ro, Christine (2020-03-18). "How Training Bras Constructed American Girlhood" (https://daily.jstor.org/how-training-bras-constructed-girlhood/) . JSTOR Daily . Retrieved 2020-03-18 . ^ a b c d e f g Brumberg, Joan Jacobs (1998). The Body Project: An Intimate History of American Girls . Knopf Doubleday Publishing. p. 336. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-679-73529-1 . Archived from the original (http://course1.winona.msus.edu/pjohnson/e111/e111f99/brumberg.htm) on March 28, 2002. ^ a b c "Training Bra Shopping Tips" (http://shopping.aol.com/articles/2008/05/05/training-bras/) . AOL Shipping . Retrieved July 9, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Why A Training Bra Is So Important" (http://www.love-of-lingerie.com/training-bra-is.html) . LoveOfLingerie.com . Retrieved 17 November 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Teen Bras" (http://www.herroom.com/teen-bras,bras,794,001,10.html) . HerRoom.com . Retrieved 17 November 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Herbst, Philip (2001). Wimmin, wimps & wallflowers: an encyclopaedic dictionary of gender and sexual orientation bias in the United States . Intercultural Press. p. 122 (https://archive.org/details/isbn_9781877864803/page/122) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-877864-80-3 . Sweater girl. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Ostler, Rosemarie (2005). Dewdroppers, waldos, and slackers: a decade-by-decade guide to the vanishing vocabulary of the twentieth century . Oxford University Press US. p. 85. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-518254-5 . ^ a b Kopala, Mary; Keitel, Merle A. (2003). Handbook of Counseling Women . Thousand Oaks, California: Sage Publications. p. 249. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7619-2640-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Gallant, Ann (1978). Body treatments and dietetics for the beauty therapist . Cheltenham, UK: Stanley Thomas Publishers. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-85950-401-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-Communications1975_18-0) West, Richard (June 1975). "Texas Monthly Reporter: Low Talk" (https://books.google.com/books?id=eCwEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA12) . Texas Monthly . Emmis Communications: 12. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0148-7736 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0148-7736) . Retrieved 22 February 2011 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-Vanity_fair_19-0) "Vanity fair" (https://books.google.com/books?id=bKk7AQAAIAAJ) . 58 . January 1995: 108 . Retrieved 22 February 2011 . {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires \|journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) ^ (#cite_ref-farrell_20-0) Farrell-Beck, Jane; Gau, Colleen (22 October 2002). Uplift: The Bra in America (illustrated ed.). University of Pennsylvania Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8122-1835-0 . Retrieved 20 January 2011 . ^ a b "Brassiere \| Encyclopedia.com" (https://www.encyclopedia.com/sports-and-everyday-life/fashion-and-clothing/clothing-jewelry-and-personal-adornment/brassiere) . Encyclopedia.com . Retrieved 7 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Science Proves That Wearing Bras Is Bad For Your Health" (https://www.lifehack.org/336735/science-proves-that-wearing-bras-bad-for-your-health) . Lifehack.org . 25 November 2015 . Retrieved 7 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Puri, Jyoti (1999). Women, Body, Desire in Post-colonial India: Narratives of Gender and Sexuality . New York: Routledge. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-415-92128-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-breastdev_24-0) "Developing Breast" (http://www.buzzle.com/articles/developing-breast-stages-development-teen-girls.html) . Retrieved 29 June 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-young_25-0) Young, Iris Marion (27 January 2005). On Female Body Experience: "Throwing Like a Girl" and Other Essays . USA: Oxford University Press. p. 192. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-516192-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Bra Styles, Colors, and Types" (https://archive.today/20120730114756/http://www.bra-shop.com/bra-styles-types-training-bra.asp) . Archived from the original (http://www.bra-shop.com/bra-styles-types-training-bra.asp) on 30 July 2012 . Retrieved 14 November 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Baker, Sandra. "The Artful Bras Project" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090303172339/http://www.quiltersofsc.org/artfullbras/artfullbras.htm) . Archived from the original (http://www.quiltersofsc.org/artfullbras/artfullbras.htm) on March 3, 2009 . Retrieved 14 March 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Sexy, Sassy, Still in Primary School" (http://www.smh.com.au/news/national/sexy-sassy-still-in-primary-school/2006/12/22/1166290740883.html) . Sydney Morning Herald . 23 December 2006 . 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Esta Nesbitt Born Esther Feuerman ( 1918-11-19 ) November 19, 1918 New York City, New York, U.S. Died November 30, 1975 (1975-11-30) (aged 57) New York City, New York, U.S. Other names Esta Feuerman Nesbitt Education Traphagen School of Fashion (/wiki/Traphagen_School_of_Fashion) , Columbia University (/wiki/Columbia_University) , New York University (/wiki/New_York_University) Years active 1940s–1970s Known for Fashion Illustration, Xerox art (/wiki/Xerox_art) Spouse Saul Nesbitt (?–1975) Esther "Esta" Nesbitt , born as Esther Feuerman (1918–1975), was an American illustrator, xerox artist (/wiki/Xerox_art) , filmmaker, and educator. Between the 1940s until the 1960s, Nesbitt actively led a career as a fashion illustrator (/wiki/Fashion_illustration) for leading magazines and newspapers including Harpers Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) , Mademoiselle (/wiki/Mademoiselle_(magazine)) , and the New York Times Magazine (/wiki/The_New_York_Times_Magazine) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) In the 1960s she began experimenting with fine art, in multidisciplines and with xerox art. Biography [ edit ] Esther Feuerman was born 19 November 1918 in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , New York. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) Nesbitt studied at the Traphagen School of Fashion (/wiki/Traphagen_School_of_Fashion) , graduating 1937 in Illustration, working primarily in fashion illustration (/wiki/Fashion_illustration) . [4] (#cite_note-:3-4) She continued her studies at Columbia University (/wiki/Columbia_University) , and New York University (/wiki/New_York_University) (NYU). [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) She was married to designer and sculptor, Saul Nesbitt (1920–1993). [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-:4-6) Between 1964 until 1974, Nesbitt was a professor at the Parson’s School of Design (/wiki/Parsons_School_of_Design) . [4] (#cite_note-:3-4) Starting in the 1960s she started to experiment with fine art, and by 1966 she was exhibiting her art. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) In the 1960s and 1970s, Nesbitt was one of the earliest artists experimenting with xerox art. [7] (#cite_note-:5-7) She invent three xerography techniques, named transcapsa, photo-transcapsa, and chromacapsa. [7] (#cite_note-:5-7) Nesbitt worked closely with Anibal Ambert and Merle English at Xerox Corporation (/wiki/Xerox) and the company sponsored her art research from 1970 until 1972. [8] (#cite_note-8) She died on 30 November 1975 in New York City, New York. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) Her work is featured in various public art museum and library collections including, the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (/wiki/Museum_of_Fine_Arts,_Houston) , [9] (#cite_note-9) Brooklyn Museum (/wiki/Brooklyn_Museum) , [10] (#cite_note-10) Archives of American Art (/wiki/Archives_of_American_Art) , [11] (#cite_note-11) National Museum of American History (/wiki/National_Museum_of_American_History) , [6] (#cite_note-:4-6) Digital Public Library of America (/wiki/Digital_Public_Library_of_America) , [12] (#cite_note-12) Smithsonian American Art Museum (/wiki/Smithsonian_American_Art_Museum) , [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) Frances Neady collection at Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) , [13] (#cite_note-13) among others. References [ edit ] ^ a b c "Esta Nesbitt fashion illustrations, 1944-1964 KA.0086" (https://library.newschool.edu/archives/findingaids/KA0086.html) . The New School, Library and Archives . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ a b c d "Esta Nesbitt Archive" (http://www.azarchivesonline.org/xtf/view?docId=ead/ccp/AzU-CCP_AG60.xml&doc.view=print;chunk.id=0) . Arizona Archives Online (AAQ) . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ a b "Esta Nesbitt" (https://americanart.si.edu/artist/esta-nesbitt-3516) . Smithsonian American Art Museum . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ a b "Traphagen Alumni, The Traphagen School: Fostering American Fashion" (https://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/traphagen-school/traphagen-alumni/) . Museum at FIT . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Saul Nesbitt Papers" (https://sova.si.edu/record/NMAH.AC.1275) . Smithsonian Online Visual Archive (SOVA) . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ a b "A Finding Aid to the Esta Nesbitt papers, 1942-1981" (https://www.aaa.si.edu/collections/esta-nesbitt-papers-8079) . Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ a b "Exhibitions: Finding Source Material in the Archives of American Art - Esta Nesbitt" (https://www.aaa.si.edu/exhibitions/source-material/esta-nesbitt) . Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "A Finding Aid to the Esta Nesbitt Papers, circa 1942-1981, in the Archives of American Art" (https://sova.si.edu/record/AAA.nesbesta?s=0&n=10&t=C&q=City+sounds&i=7) . Smithsonian Online Visual Achieve (SOVA) . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "All the Lines are Nines" (https://www.mfah.org/art/detail/6957/) . The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Collection search: Esta Nesbitt – American, 1918-1975" (https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/artists/6673/objects) . Brooklyn Museum . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Esta Nesbitt collage" (https://www.si.edu/object/AAADCD_item_18297) . Smithsonian Institution . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Xeroxia #4" (https://dp.la/item/0227106be082ba988bbebf5a8760b5cf) . DPLA . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Frances Neady collection" (http://www.fitnyc.edu/library/sparc/collections/frances-neady.php) . Fashion Institute of Technology . Retrieved 2019-12-03 . External links [ edit ] Esta Nesbitt papers, 1942-1981 (https://www.aaa.si.edu/collections/esta-nesbitt-papers-8079) , from Archives of American Art (/wiki/Archives_of_American_Art) , Smithsonian Institution Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/1467682/) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/275641187) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJgRXcrgmV3h3YcdvFHgrq) National United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n85197666) Artists Photographers' Identities (https://pic.nypl.org/constituents/336072) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5cb4c77d7f‐h9dll Cached time: 20240709142748 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.371 seconds Real time usage: 0.488 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2344/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 29940/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1826/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 53553/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.253/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6171336/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 460.503 1 -total 41.38% 190.551 1 Template:Infobox_person 37.00% 170.366 1 Template:Reflist 26.81% 123.455 13 Template:Cite_web 19.76% 91.002 1 Template:Authority_control 17.06% 78.563 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 12.64% 58.211 1 Template:Birth_date 7.24% 33.352 20 Template:Pluralize_from_text 5.73% 26.394 1 Template:Dead_link 4.84% 22.293 1 Template:Fix Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:62488977-0!canonical and timestamp 20240709142748 and revision id 1213967319. 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American fashion journalist Thomas in 2021 Bobbie Thomas is an American fashion journalist. She is the Style Editor for NBC (/wiki/NBC) 's Today Show (/wiki/Today_(American_TV_program)) . She has been considered a beauty and fashion expert for over a decade, and has appeared on TV shows including E! (/wiki/E!) Red Carpet coverage, Style Network (/wiki/Esquire_Network#Style_Network) 's Fashion Police (/wiki/Fashion_Police) , The View (/wiki/The_View_(talk_show)) and The Wendy Williams Show (/wiki/The_Wendy_Williams_Show) . Her national column, "the Buzz" appeared in In Touch Weekly (/wiki/In_Touch_Weekly) Magazine . [1] (#cite_note-1) "Bobbie's Buzz" later aired weekly on TODAY with Kathie Lee Gifford and Hoda Kotb (/wiki/Today_with_Hoda_%26_Jenna) . Early life [ edit ] Bobbie Thomas was born October 23, 1974, in Providence, Rhode Island (/wiki/Providence,_Rhode_Island) , and raised bi-coastal between New England (/wiki/New_England) and Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) . Thomas received a Bachelor of Science in Psychology from the University of Idaho (/wiki/University_of_Idaho) . During three years of graduate studies, Bobbie volunteered as an advocate and counselor at the Valley Trauma Center, a rape crisis treatment facility. Career [ edit ] From FOX and CNN (/wiki/CNN) to VH1 (/wiki/VH1) and MTV (/wiki/MTV) , Thomas has shared tips, tricks and Hollywood secrets with a wide audience. She has appeared on a variety of E! Entertainment specials, including their annual red-carpet Emmy, Golden Globe, Screen Actors Guild, and Academy Awards coverage. She also co-hosted Fashion Police on the Style Network with Robert Verdi. [2] (#cite_note-2) As the Style Editor of NBC's Today Show, her weekly TodayShow.com Style Buzz articles have become a popular fixture for the Fashion & Beauty section, and are often pulled to also appear on MSN.com and MSN messenger, as well as MSNBC.com's home page. [3] (#cite_note-3) Her work with national clothing retailers has included fashion commentary for both the youth and adult market [4] (#cite_note-auto-4) and presently she serves as Simon Property Group's Style Expert, visiting malls across the United States and hosting events. [5] (#cite_note-5) In the fall of 2009, Thomas launched Bobbie.com. [6] (#cite_note-6) The blog features a variety of Thomas' styling ideas, Do-It-Yourself projects and houses an archive of her Today Show segments. [4] (#cite_note-auto-4) In 2010, Thomas signed on to lead a team of women in the "Latisse Wishes Challenge" benefitting the Make-a-Wish foundation. [7] (#cite_note-7) Personal life [ edit ] Thomas dated N Sync (/wiki/N_Sync) member JC Chasez (/wiki/JC_Chasez) during the group's prime between 1998 and 2001. In March 2012, Thomas got engaged to lawyer Michael Marion. [8] (#cite_note-Engaged-8) The couple was married on May 31, 2013 at Kathie-Lee Gifford (/wiki/Kathie-Lee_Gifford) 's home in Connecticut. [9] (#cite_note-Bobbie_Thomas_says_'I_do'-9) On December 3, 2014, Thomas announced that she was pregnant with her first child via IVF (/wiki/IVF) . [10] (#cite_note-10) Their son Miles Thomas Marion was born in 2015. [11] (#cite_note-11) The two had a long-haired chihuahua (/wiki/Chihuahua_(dog)) named Chica. In 2019, Marion suffered an ischemic stroke and Thomas began sharing his recovery journey with viewers and followers. [12] (#cite_note-12) Michael Marion died on December 1, 2020. [13] (#cite_note-13) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Style Editor Bobbie Thomas - TODAYshow.com" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080214091332/http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/23116079/) . Feb 14, 2008. Archived from the original (https://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/23116079/) on 2008-02-14 . Retrieved Dec 7, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Bobbie Thomas" (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1638318/) . IMDb . Retrieved Dec 7, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Bobbie Thomas Biography - TV.com" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090710042246/http://www.tv.com/bobbie-thomas/person/274410/biography.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.tv.com/bobbie-thomas/person/274410/biography.html) on 2009-07-10 . Retrieved 2010-02-01 . ^ a b "Top trends for back-to-school: Style expert Bobbie Thomas reveals four trends that make the grade" (http://www.annarbor.com/shopping/top-trends-for-back-to-school-style-expert-bobbie-thomas-reveals-four-trends-that-make-the-grade/) . AnnArbor.com . Retrieved Dec 7, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Simon Property Group" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100826081528/http://www.simon.com/malleventsandprograms/promotions.aspx?eid=10737) . Archived from the original (http://www.simon.com/malleventsandprograms/promotions.aspx?eid%3D10737) on 2010-08-26 . Retrieved 2010-08-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Fusible" (https://fusible.com/2009/10/nbcs-style-editor-bobbie-thomas-redesigning-her-internet-image-with-domain-name-bobbie-com-new-site/) . fusible.com . Retrieved Dec 7, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) http://www.cbs8.com/Global/story.asp?S=12650966 (http://www.cbs8.com/Global/story.asp?S=12650966) [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-Engaged_8-0) Smolinski, Julieanna (27 March 2012). "TODAY's Bobbie Thomas is engaged!" (http://www.today.com/klgandhoda/todays-bobbie-thomas-engaged-569611) . NBC News . Retrieved June 3, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-Bobbie_Thomas_says_'I_do'_9-0) Raphael, Rina (3 June 2013). "Bobbie Thomas says 'I do' at Kathie Lee's home" (http://www.today.com/style/bobbie-thomas-says-i-do-kathie-lees-home-6C10166690) . NBC News . Retrieved June 3, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "TODAY Contributor Bobbie Thomas' Husband Michael Dies at Age 42" (https://www.necn.com/entertainment/entertainment-news/today-contributor-bobbie-thomas-husband-michael-dies-at-age-42/2364007/) . NECN . 5 December 2020 . Retrieved 2020-12-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Bobbie Thomas Gives Birth To Baby Boy!" (https://www.thebump.com/news/bobbie-thomas-welcomes-baby-boy) . www.thebump.com . Retrieved 2020-12-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Bobbie Thomas gives update on husband 1 year after his stroke" (https://www.today.com/health/today-s-bobbie-thomas-gives-update-husband-1-year-after-t180670) . TODAY.com . 4 May 2020 . Retrieved 2020-05-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) TODAY contributor Bobbie Thomas' husband Michael dies at age 42 (https://www.today.com/popculture/husband-today-s-bobbie-thomas-michael-marion-dies-42-t202809) TODAY.COM Retrieved 2020-12-04. External links [ edit ] Bobbie.com (http://www.bobbie.com) Bobbie on Twitter (https://twitter.com/bobbiethomas) Bobbie on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/bobbiethomas) Bobbie's Style Buzz on TodayShow.com (https://web.archive.org/web/20090808213106/http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/23116079/ns/today-today_fashion_and_beauty/) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐lm7n9 Cached time: 20240713034224 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.303 seconds Real time usage: 0.383 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 844/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 19703/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1290/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 41192/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.191/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4604416/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 346.632 1 -total 63.70% 220.804 1 Template:Reflist 45.38% 157.289 11 Template:Cite_web 25.09% 86.964 1 Template:Short_description 14.49% 50.218 2 Template:Pagetype 11.00% 38.136 1 Template:Dead_link 9.05% 31.353 1 Template:Fix 8.93% 30.964 1 Template:Authority_control 8.02% 27.807 2 Template:Category_handler 6.52% 22.599 5 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:25906084-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713034224 and revision id 1234204513. 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This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Godadi) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Godadi" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Godadi%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Godadi%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Godadi%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Godadi%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Godadi%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Godadi%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( May 2018 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Embroidered Godadi(Blanket) Godadi is a Gujarati (/wiki/Gujarati_language) word for a blanket (/wiki/Blanket) . It is a special kind of blanket, embroidered (/wiki/Embroidery) and made by patching various pieces of cloth. Godadi used to be handmade by housewives from Gujarat, especially from the Kutch district. Today in Gujarat, the "Godadi" word is taken as a general term for blanket that is available in the supermarkets and shopping malls. However, people who know the "Godadi" word will always picture embroidered cloth that is used as a blanket. History [ edit ] In 19s, [ clarification needed ] there were no factories or production outlets for woollen (/wiki/Woollen) or cotton (/wiki/Cotton) blankets at villages of Punjab and Gujarat. In the beginning, unused pieces of cloths like a piece of a shirt, sari (/wiki/Sari) and other clothes, were collected over time and with a design in mind to make a good blanket, girls from the Bhuj (/wiki/Bhuj) , Gujarat (/wiki/Gujarat) used to sew these pieces of cloth together, after cutting them into different shapes. Over time, pieces of cotton became available in the market which helped girls and housewives to make a well designed blanket by embedding them with different designs. The tradition of making handmade blankets has continued into the 21st century. Many village people from Kutch, Gujarat export their blankets to different states of India. Due to consideration of heritage designs, this types of blankets are still popular and used by many people in India. Availability of handmade Godadi [ edit ] Till date, there are many places and stores in Kutch (/wiki/Kutch) where handmade Godadis are sold. There is a variety of Godadis, such as designed Godadi from the same piece of cotton (/wiki/Cotton) cloth, Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Godadi and Godadi from patched clothes. [1] (#cite_note-1) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Products" (https://craftofgujarat.gujarat.gov.in/Products?Category=20&SubCategory=320&productname=Godadi&pid=100) . craftofgujarat.gujarat.gov.in . External links [ edit ] [1] (https://issuu.com/rajvimehta/docs/embroidered_tales_of_banni_comp_) Embroidered tales of Banni . This article about the culture of India is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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French grand couturier (1868–1962) Jenny Sacerdote Painting of Sacerdote, 1921, by Henri Gervex (/wiki/Henri_Gervex) Born Jeanne Adèle Bernard 1868 ( 1868 ) Périgueux (/wiki/P%C3%A9rigueux) , Dordogne (/wiki/Dordogne) , France Died 1962 (aged 93–94) Nice, France (/wiki/Nice,_France) Other names Madame Jenny Occupations Fashion designer dressmaker Known for Little grey suit Jeanne Adèle Bernard (1868–1962), known as Jenny Sacerdote and Madame Jenny , was a French couturier known for the "little grey suit". [1] (#cite_note-suite-bio-1) [2] (#cite_note-vanity-2) [3] (#cite_note-perigord-3) [4] (#cite_note-moraine-4) Her fashion brand was Jenny , and in 2018 a brand La Suite Jenny Sacerdote was established, paying tribute to her name. [5] (#cite_note-suite-home-5) Personal life [ edit ] Jeanne Adèle Bernard was born in Périgueux (/wiki/P%C3%A9rigueux) in the Dordogne (/wiki/Dordogne) in 1868. Her mother and grandmother worked in fashion, but she studied to become an academic before turning to fashion at the age of 39. [6] (#cite_note-suite-jenniale-6) She bought the chateau of Château-l'Évêque (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau-l%27%C3%89v%C3%AAque) , the former summer palace of the Bishop of Périgueux (/wiki/Bishop_of_P%C3%A9rigueux) , in 1923. [7] (#cite_note-chateau-7) [1] (#cite_note-suite-bio-1) She married Emil Sacerdote in 1909 and they divorced in 1940. She died in Nice (/wiki/Nice) in 1962. [1] (#cite_note-suite-bio-1) Career [ edit ] Sacerdote opened her first shop at 1 rue de Castiglione in 1909. She developed the "Jenny neck", a boat neck (/wiki/Boat_neck) , in 1911 and the "little grey suit" in 1915. By 1915 her premises at 70, Champs-Élysées (/wiki/Champs-%C3%89lys%C3%A9es) , included 22 workshops, a restaurant, and showrooms decorated by Robert Mallet-Stevens (/wiki/Robert_Mallet-Stevens) . It was said that she invented the " little black dress (/wiki/Little_black_dress) " before Chanel (/wiki/Coco_Chanel) . Her fashion house closed in 1940. [2] (#cite_note-vanity-2) [1] (#cite_note-suite-bio-1) Sacerdote became a Chevalier of the Legion of Honour (/wiki/Legion_of_Honour) in 1926, for services to fashion. She was only the second woman to be granted this honour. [1] (#cite_note-suite-bio-1) The Chateau of Château-l'Evêque, which Sacerdotebought in 1923 References [ edit ] ^ a b c d e "A woman's story" (https://www.jennysacerdote.com/a-womans-story/?lang=en) . La Suite de Jenny Sacerdote . Retrieved 1 October 2019 . ^ a b Concierge Masqué (9 November 2018). "Faut-il ressusciter les morts de la mode ?" (https://www.vanityfair.fr/savoir-vivre/story/la-chronique-du-concierge-masque-faut-il-ressusciter-les-morts-de-la-mode-/4401) (in French). Vanity Fair . Retrieved 1 October 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-perigord_3-0) Dordogne Tourist Board. "Press Kit 2017" (https://www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr/administration/cdt_24/images/file/Espace%20Presse/Press-Kit-CDT-Dordogne-Perigord-2017.pdf) (PDF) . p. 30 . Retrieved 1 October 2019 . Internationally renowned for her elegant creations of the 1930s, Jenny Sacerdote, a fashion designer originally from the Périgord (1868 – 1962), revolutionised fashion with her famous little grey suit. ^ (#cite_ref-moraine_4-0) Moraine, Odile (12 August 2016). "Jenny Sacerdote, celle qui révolutionna la mode avant Chanel" (https://www.francetvinfo.fr/culture/mode/jenny-sacerdote-celle-qui-revolutionna-la-mode-avant-chanel_3391627.html) . Culture . Franceinfo . Retrieved 1 October 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-suite-home_5-0) "Home page" (https://www.jennysacerdote.com/?lang=en) . La Suite Jenny Sacerdote . Retrieved 1 October 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-suite-jenniale_6-0) "Jeanne ou la femme jenniale …" (https://www.jennysacerdote.com/2018/08/27/jeanne-ou-la-femme-jenniale/) . La Suite Jenny Sacerdote . Retrieved 1 October 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-chateau_7-0) "Le château fut la propriété de Jenny Sacerdote" (http://www.chateau-de-chateauleveque.com/fr/decouvrir/histoire/article-le-chateau-fut-la-propriete-de-jenny-sacerdote-3.html) . Chateau de chateau l'eveque . Retrieved 1 October 2019 . Further reading [ edit ] Ott, M. Louise Hassell (2004). Jenny Sacerdote, a Forgotten French Designer 1908-1940 . University of Rhode Island. OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 60552038 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/60552038) . M.S. thesis External links [ edit ] Bigham, Randy Bryan (13 December 2017). "Chanel's rival: The roaring '20s designer you've never heard of" (https://randybigham.wixsite.com/pastfashion/single-post/2014/06/01/Demonstrations-throughout-Europe-get-more-violent) . Pastfashion . 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British businesswoman (born 1982) Emma Grede Born Emma Findlay ( 1982-09-23 ) 23 September 1982 (age 41) London, England Education London College of Fashion (/wiki/London_College_of_Fashion) (did not graduate) Occupation(s) Co-founder & CEO, Good American (/wiki/Good_American) Years active 2007–present Spouse Jens Grede Children 4 [1] (#cite_note-1) Emma Findlay Grede (born 1982) is a British businesswoman, entrepreneur and fashion designer. She is the CEO and co-founder of the denim company Good American (/wiki/Good_American) , a founding partner of Skims (/wiki/Skims) , and co-founder of Safely. [2] (#cite_note-bustle-2) Early life [ edit ] Grede was born and raised in the Plaistow (/wiki/Plaistow,_Newham) neighborhood of East London (/wiki/East_London) , England. [3] (#cite_note-elle-3) [4] (#cite_note-glamour-4) She is the daughter of Jenny-Lee Findlay, a white English mother who worked for Morgan Stanley (/wiki/Morgan_Stanley) and a Black Jamaican and Trinidadian father. [5] (#cite_note-Segran-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-standard-7) Raised by her single mother, she has three younger sisters, Charlotte, Rachelle, and Katie-Beth. [7] (#cite_note-standard-7) Starting as a teenager, Emma began working at a number of odd jobs, including delivering newspapers, which she credits for teaching her perseverance and discipline. [8] (#cite_note-8) She regularly saved her earnings to purchase magazines like Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) and Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) and has noted that the fashion industry was a form of escapism for her. [2] (#cite_note-bustle-2) [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-:0-10) [11] (#cite_note-:1-11) At age 16, Grede enrolled at the London College of Fashion (/wiki/London_College_of_Fashion) , where she also secured internships at places like Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) . [4] (#cite_note-glamour-4) [7] (#cite_note-standard-7) However, in order to pursue her career, she withdrew from school before completing her degree, noting that "It was the right decision for me." [7] (#cite_note-standard-7) Career [ edit ] Entrepreneurship [ edit ] After leaving college, Grede worked for Quintessentially (/wiki/Quintessentially_Group) , a concierge company, before joining Inca Productions as a fashion show and events producer. [7] (#cite_note-standard-7) [12] (#cite_note-abc-12) In 2008 at age 26, Grede founded and was CEO of Independent Talent Brand (ITB) Worldwide, a London-based talent management and entertainment marketing agency [13] (#cite_note-13) [4] (#cite_note-glamour-4) [14] (#cite_note-capital-14) [5] (#cite_note-Segran-5) Ten years later, ITB was acquired by Rogers & Cowan (/wiki/Rogers_%26_Cowan) for an undisclosed amount, and Grede exited the company. [14] (#cite_note-capital-14) Around 2015, Grede proposed an idea for a denim company to Kris Jenner (/wiki/Kris_Jenner) , whom she met during Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) , explaining that she wanted to partner with Jenner's daughter, Khloé Kardashian (/wiki/Khlo%C3%A9_Kardashian) . [12] (#cite_note-abc-12) [15] (#cite_note-15) Grede and Kardashian launched Good American (/wiki/Good_American) in 2016, as a women's clothing company focused on size inclusivity and body positivity (/wiki/Body_positivity) with Grede as CEO. [3] (#cite_note-elle-3) [4] (#cite_note-glamour-4) The company sold a million dollars of denim merchandise on opening day. [11] (#cite_note-:1-11) Good American expanded from strictly selling denim jeans to include dresses, activewear, tops, swimwear, sleepwear, and shoes in its line. [4] (#cite_note-glamour-4) [12] (#cite_note-abc-12) The company also invented the size 15 jean—in between 14 and 16—to accommodate more body types. [12] (#cite_note-abc-12) [16] (#cite_note-16) Grede is a founding partner of Skims (/wiki/Skims) , a shapewear brand co-founded by her husband Jens Grede and Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) in 2019. Grede is the company's chief product officer. [4] (#cite_note-glamour-4) Along with Kris Jenner (/wiki/Kris_Jenner) and Chrissy Teigen (/wiki/Chrissy_Teigen) , Grede also co-founded Safely, a brand of plant-based cleaning and self-care products that launched in March 2021. [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) Emma conceived of the company during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) , as she desired products that would be safe for her own family. [19] (#cite_note-:2-19) To that end, Safely's mission is "to rid American homes of harsh toxins with plant-powered products." [19] (#cite_note-:2-19) With an estimated net worth of over $300 million, Grede has 8% stake in Skims, 23% stake in Good American, and 22% stake in Safely. [11] (#cite_note-:1-11) Philanthropy [ edit ] Emma Grede regularly addresses the need for more diverse representation amongst CEOs and entrepreneurs and has used her influence to create opportunities for people of color, specifically. [20] (#cite_note-20) Grede is a guest shark on the first episode of season 13 and the fourteenth episode of season 14 of the reality television series Shark Tank (/wiki/Shark_Tank) . [21] (#cite_note-21) She is the first black woman investor on the show. In 2024 she became a guest dragon on the 21st series of Dragons' Den (British TV programme) (/wiki/Dragons%27_Den_(British_TV_programme)) . [22] (#cite_note-22) Grede also is chairwoman of the 15 Percent Pledge (/wiki/15_Percent_Pledge) , an initiative for retailers to reserve 15% of their shelf space for black-owned businesses. [2] (#cite_note-bustle-2) Designer Aurora James (/wiki/Aurora_James) spearheaded the movement after being inspired following the murder of George Floyd (/wiki/Murder_of_George_Floyd) in 2020 and subsequent protests (/wiki/George_Floyd_protests) . [23] (#cite_note-23) By 2022, the nonprofit helped black business owners generate $10 billion in revenue. [24] (#cite_note-24) Recognition [ edit ] In November 2022, Emma, husband Jens Grede, and Kim Kardashian won the first Innovation Award presented by Amazon Fashion for Skims at the CFDA (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) Awards in New York. With an estimated net worth of $320 million by 2023, Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) magazine identified Grede as one of the Richest Self-Made Women in America. [25] (#cite_note-25) Personal life [ edit ] Grede is married to Jens Grede, the Swedish co-founder of Skims and denim brand, Frame. [2] (#cite_note-bustle-2) The couple moved to Bel Air, Los Angeles (/wiki/Bel_Air,_Los_Angeles) in 2017, and they have four children together. [26] (#cite_note-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) In her mid-twenties, Grede learned that she is "super-dyslexic." [10] (#cite_note-:0-10) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Johansson, Victor (7 February 2022). " (https://www.svd.se/rader-alla-vanner-att-gifta-sig-med-en-svensk) "Råder alla vänner att gifta sig med en svensk" (https://www.svd.se/rader-alla-vanner-att-gifta-sig-med-en-svensk) " (https://www.svd.se/rader-alla-vanner-att-gifta-sig-med-en-svensk) . Svenska Dagbladet (in Swedish). ^ Jump up to: a b c d Lodi, Marie (5 October 2021). "The British Powerhouse Behind Good American" (https://www.bustle.com/style/emma-grede-good-american-khloe-kardashian) . Bustle . Retrieved 7 October 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Murray, Daisy (20 June 2021). "Emma Grede Is The Celebrity Fashion Brand Mogul With The Midas Touch" (https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/a36740484/emma-grede-interview/) . Elle . Retrieved 27 September 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Mamona, Sheilla (30 June 2021). "From East London to Bel Air: The co-founder of Good American and founding partner of SKIMS shares her recipes for multi-million dollar success" (https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/emma-grede-good-american-skims-interview) . Glamour . Retrieved 27 September 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Segran, Elizabeth (20 February 2018). "Good American's CEO on Being the Only Black Woman in the Room: "I Don't Notice" (https://www.fastcompany.com/40528244/good-americans-ceo-on-being-the-only-black-woman-in-the-room-i-dont-notice) " (https://www.fastcompany.com/40528244/good-americans-ceo-on-being-the-only-black-woman-in-the-room-i-dont-notice) . Fast Company . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Browley, Jasmine (30 August 2022). "Good American's Emma Grede Made History As Shark Tank's First Black Woman Investor" (https://www.essence.com/news/money-career/emma-grede-shark-tank-black-women-vc/) . Essence . Retrieved 3 December 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Mahanty, Shannon (17 June 2021). "Emma Grede on building a fashion empire with the Kardashians: 'Ask questions, work really hard and don't be an a***hole' (https://www.standard.co.uk/insider/fashion/emma-grede-interview-es-magazine-kardashians-b940585.html) " (https://www.standard.co.uk/insider/fashion/emma-grede-interview-es-magazine-kardashians-b940585.html) . Evening Standard . Retrieved 4 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) ‘Shark Tank’ star Emma Grede dispels myth of overnight success , retrieved 3 December 2023 ^ (#cite_ref-9) Dawkins, Jennifer Ortakales (30 October 2023). "Meet Emma and Jens Grede, the team behind Kim Kardashian's Skims and Kylie Jenner's new clothing line, Khy" (https://www.businessinsider.com/emma-grede-jens-grede-ceos-behind-skims-good-american-2023-10) . Business Insider . Retrieved 3 December 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Peters, Maxine (24 August 2023). "How savvy businesswoman Emma Grede helped the Kardashian-Jenner family build their billion-dollar empire" (https://www.news24.com/you/celebs/international/how-savvy-businesswoman-emma-grede-helped-the-kardashian-jenner-family-build-their-billion-dollar-empire-20230724) . You . Retrieved 3 December 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c McEvoy, Jemima (14 June 2022). "Keeping Up With The Kardashians: Meet The Woman Who Made A Fortune Helping Build The Family's Billion Dollar Business Empire" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/jemimamcevoy/2022/06/14/keeping-up-with-the-kardashians-meet-the-woman-who-made-a-fortune-helping-build-the-familys-billion-dollar-business-empire/) . Forbes . Retrieved 4 December 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Winn, Layne (12 November 2019). "Good American founder Emma Grede on how she got into business with Khloe Kardashian" (https://abcnews.go.com/Business/good-american-founder-emma-grede-business-khloe-kardashian/story?id=66921616) . ABC News . Retrieved 27 September 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Grede, Emma (2 March 2015). "Case study: How influencers can cut through social noise" (https://www.marketingtechnews.net/news/2015/mar/02/case-study-how-influencers-can-cut-through-social-noise/) . Marketing Tech News . ^ Jump up to: a b Day, Andy (10 May 2018). "London based influencer agency ITB Worldwide acquired by Rogers & Cowan" (https://www.capitala.co/business/15902/london-based-influencer-agency-itb-worldwide-acquired-by-rogers-cowan/) . Capital A . Retrieved 1 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Singh-Kurtz, Sangeeta (3 November 2023). "The Couple Behind the Skims-Industrial Complex" (https://www.thecut.com/article/emma-grede-jens-grede-kim-kardashian-skims-kylie-jenner-khy-profile.html) . The Cut . Retrieved 5 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Fisher, Lauren Alexis (20 September 2018). "Good American Just Invented a New Size of Jeans to Fix Fit Issues" (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/a23318989/good-american-size-15-jean/) . Harper's BAZAAR . Retrieved 5 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Green, Penelope (24 March 2021). "Are You Cleaning Enough? Celebrities Want to Help" (https://www.nytimes.com/2021/03/24/style/chrissy-teigen-kris-jenner-safely-cleaning.html) . New York Times . Retrieved 27 September 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) McCann, Maile (3 August 2021). " (https://www.modernretail.co/startups/youve-got-to-be-where-the-customers-are-safelys-emma-grede-on-entering-bed-bath-beyond/) 'You've got to be where the customers are': Safely's Emma Grede on entering Bed Bath & Beyond" (https://www.modernretail.co/startups/youve-got-to-be-where-the-customers-are-safelys-emma-grede-on-entering-bed-bath-beyond/) . Modern Retail . Retrieved 27 September 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hagan, Eva (24 October 2023). "How Emma Grede and Kris Jenner's Brand Safely Is Cleaning up the Home Care Industry (Exclusive)" (https://www.greenmatters.com/business/emma-grede-safely) . Green Matters . Retrieved 5 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Pliska, Jessica (29 March 2021). "For Emma Grede, Purpose-Driven Business Is The Best Kind" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/jessicapliska/2021/03/29/for-emma-grede-purpose-driven-business-is-the-best-kind/) . Forbes . Retrieved 5 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Hipes, Patrick (26 August 2021). " (https://deadline.com/2021/08/shark-tank-guest-sharks-kevin-smith-emma-grede-peter-jones-nirav-tolia-1234822296/) 'Shark Tank' Guest Sharks For New Season Include Kevin Hart, Skims And Nextdoor Co-Founders" (https://deadline.com/2021/08/shark-tank-guest-sharks-kevin-smith-emma-grede-peter-jones-nirav-tolia-1234822296/) . Deadline . Retrieved 4 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Pike, Naomi (9 February 2024). "Meet Emma Grede, the most stylish judge on Dragons' Den" (https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/emma-grede-dragons-den-judge-kardashian-mkq7t8gjj) . The Times . Retrieved 20 February 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Ogunnaike, Lola (26 October 2022). "How Aurora James Changed Fashion" (https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a41576754/fifteen-percent-pledge-history/) . Town & Country . Retrieved 5 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Davis, Dominic-Madori (5 April 2022). "Black Americans represent the fastest-rising class of business owners. Here's how the 15 Percent Pledge aims to help black entrepreneurs generate $1.4 trillion in wealth" (https://www.businessinsider.com/15-percent-pledge-sephora-aims-to-help-black-entrepreneurs-2022-4) . Business Insider . Retrieved 5 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Emma Grede" (https://www.forbes.com/profile/emma-grede/) . Forbes . Retrieved 3 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) McClain, James (12 May 2020). "Fashion Designers Jens and Emma Grede Buy $24 Million Bel Air Estate" (https://variety.com/2020/dirt/fashion/fashion-designers-jens-and-emma-grede-buy-24-million-bel-air-estate-1234604809/) . Variety . Retrieved 4 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Pithers, Ellie (12 September 2021). "Good American Co-Founder Emma Grede Has Created A Distinctly English Home In The Middle Of Bel Air" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/arts-and-lifestyle/article/emma-grede-interview) . Vogue . Retrieved 4 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Heaf, Jonathan (11 May 2022). "Jens and Emma Grede – the brains behind Skims" (https://www.ft.com/content/3441be48-e1fc-466d-a83b-fcebb605f677) . Financial Times . Retrieved 5 December 2023 . 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Board of Trade's CC41 symbol CC41 label on a coat. The CC41 Utility logo was an identifying mark of products produced and sold as part of the British Government's Second World War (/wiki/World_War_II) Utility Clothing Scheme (/wiki/Utility_clothing) . The CC41 mark indicated that the item met the standards of the Government's Utility regulations, and could be sold as a product of the Utility Scheme. [1] (#cite_note-1) Easily recognisable, the CC41 symbol was useful to manufacturers, retailers, and the civilian consumer public. Therefore, the Board of Trade (/wiki/Board_of_Trade) stipulated the CC41 marks was applied to all Utility products, which included clothing, footwear, furniture (/wiki/Utility_furniture) , and fabrics and textiles, from the implementation of the Utility Clothing Scheme in 1941, until its end in 1952. The CC41 mark could be attached to a Utility product as a label, printed directly onto cloth, or impressed mark, as on furniture and early examples of Utility footwear. The symbol, colloquially referred to as ‘cheeses’ was designed by Reginald Shipp, and is understood to represent ‘Civilian Clothing 1941’. [2] (#cite_note-2) Second World War [ edit ] This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/CC41) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( April 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Couture designers also abided by CC41 strictures. This IncSoc (/wiki/Incorporated_Society_of_London_Fashion_Designers) gown by Bianca Mosca (/wiki/Bianca_Mosca) was photographed by the Ministry of Information in 1945 as part of its publicity for utility fashion By 1941, with the need to produce clothing and other war essentials for the expanding armed services during the Second World War (/wiki/Second_World_War) , many items were rationed (/wiki/Rationing_in_the_United_Kingdom) . Certain raw materials could no longer be imported, and those that could were directed towards the war effort. Food rationing (/wiki/Rationing_in_the_United_Kingdom#Standard_food_rationing_during_the_Second_World_War) had already been reintroduced in January 1940. Non-rationed items saw their price surge, and clothing saw large mark-ups in price, well above the cost of living. The government introduced Limitation of Supply Orders that forced manufacturers to produce only a fraction of their pre-war amounts. By April 1940, the limits on cloth were having a major impact with a 25% cut in wool and rayon (/wiki/Rayon) , and a 75% cut in linen. As a consequence, manufacturers ended the production of any loss-making lines which led to calls for clothing rationing to be introduced. The prime minister, Winston Churchill (/wiki/Winston_Churchill) , believed that the general public would not accept this change. In June 1941 Oliver Lyttleton (/wiki/Oliver_Lyttleton) , the President of the Board of Trade (/wiki/President_of_the_Board_of_Trade) , managed to introduce clothes rationing. Churchill, although thankful the public accepted the move, replaced Lyttleton with Hugh Dalton (/wiki/Hugh_Dalton) (a Labour member of the coalition government since 1940) a month later. Churchill was fully aware that rationing and conscription were now necessary as Britain became involved in a 'total war' spanning the globe. Shortly after Dalton took office he appointed Metford Watkins (/w/index.php?title=Metford_Watkins&action=edit&redlink=1) as Director of Civilian Clothing at the Board of Trade. Watkins, aware of the high price of clothes at the time, promised to introduce cheaper clothes via 'austerity' provisions but not using standardisation. Shortly afterwards, the government announced the production of 'national footwear'. The austerity provisions governed exactly what could or could not be used in the manufacture of clothes and shoes (for example, number of buttons, pleats or pockets, height of heels, amount of lace or embroidery, no turn-ups on trousers and no double-breasted suits). With the introduction of purchase tax (/wiki/Purchase_tax) in October 1941 items were taxed at different rates and necessities were designated as tax-free. This stimulated production, reduced waste and through higher taxation curtailed the production of expensive clothing. Utility items [ edit ] CC41 utility mark and maker's marks impressed onto the rear of a wooden bookcase. Utility underwear, photographed in 1942 by the Ministry of Information Utility cloths were introduced and manufacturers were supplied with raw materials on a quota system. Manufacturers who agreed to increase production of utility cloth would receive a higher quota. The public bought Utility clothing as it was tax-free. By September 1942 40 cloths had been specified (19 wool, 16 cotton, four rayon and one locknit) which all now utilised the CC41 Utility mark, designed for the Directorate of Civilian Clothing by Reginald Shipp. [3] (#cite_note-V_and_A-3) The symbol was to appear on clothing, footwear and furniture and the single, identifiable mark quickly allowed the public to know if an item was tax-free or not. The symbol came to represent cheap, but reliable goods. Within the Utility footwear there were sometimes bands for quality difference. Ladies' shoes would feature the Utility mark and either W1, W2 or W3 which had a different and increasing price range. See also [ edit ] Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (/wiki/Incorporated_Society_of_London_Fashion_Designers) (IncSoc) Utility Clothing Scheme (/wiki/Utility_clothing) Utility Furniture (/wiki/Utility_furniture) Rationing in the United Kingdom (/wiki/Rationing_in_the_United_Kingdom) Make-Do and Mend (/wiki/Make-Do_and_Mend) CE marking (/wiki/CE_marking) A similar modern European standard symbol References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "A Point of View: Dazzling in an age of austerity" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-16349257) . BBC. 2011-12-31. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "How Clothes Rationing Affected Fashion In The Second World War" (https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/how-clothes-rationing-affected-fashion-in-the-second-world-war) . Imperial War Museums . Retrieved 2023-06-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-V_and_A_3-0) "Utility Coat and Hat" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120119092656/https://www.vam.ac.uk/moc/collections/clothing/utility_coat/index.html) . V&A Museum of Childhood. Archived from the original (http://www.vam.ac.uk/moc/collections/clothing/utility_coat/index.html) on 2012-01-19 . Retrieved 2012-01-01 . External links [ edit ] A brief introduction to CC41 (http://www.1940.co.uk/history/article/utility/utility.htm) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐8rb5q Cached time: 20240712231615 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.220 seconds Real time usage: 0.378 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 402/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 11317/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 266/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 13122/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.134/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 2957848/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 241.460 1 -total 54.38% 131.303 1 Template:Reflist 46.23% 111.615 3 Template:Cite_web 28.94% 69.876 1 Template:Unref-section 26.73% 64.535 1 Template:Unreferenced 25.47% 61.505 1 Template:Ambox 15.04% 36.311 1 Template:Use_British_English 6.18% 14.916 1 Template:DMCA 4.58% 11.047 1 Template:Dated_maintenance_category 3.06% 7.380 1 Template:FULLROOTPAGENAME Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:34241186-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712231615 and revision id 1217691652. 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A traditional Chinese overskirt Yaoqun Brown yaoqun over a white qun (/wiki/Qun) , Qing dynasty painting, 19th century Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) 腰裙 Transcriptions Weichang Traditional Chinese (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters) 圍裳 Simplified Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) 围裳 Transcriptions This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Yaoqun) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Yaoqun" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Yaoqun%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Yaoqun%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Yaoqun%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Yaoqun%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Yaoqun%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Yaoqun%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( July 2022 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Yaoqun ( Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 腰裙 ), also known as weichang ( Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 围裳 ), is typically a form of abbreviated or short qun (/wiki/Qun) , similar to an overskirt (/wiki/Overskirt) , in Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) . It was typically worn by Han Chinese (/wiki/Han_Chinese) women over their long-length qun , traditional Chinese skirts (/wiki/Skirt) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) : 48–49 It was typically worn along with the ruqun (/wiki/Ruqun) consisting of a short ru (/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)) , which reaches the waist-level, and a long-length qun . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) : 48–49 Throughout centuries, the yaoqun has often depicted in Chinese paintings (/wiki/Chinese_painting) , [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) : 48–49 unearthed artifacts and in Chinese tomb mural paintings. Similar items [ edit ] Baidiequn (/wiki/Baidiequn) Overskirt (/wiki/Overskirt) Bixi (/wiki/Bixi_(clothing)) See also [ edit ] Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) List of Hanfu (/wiki/List_of_Hanfu) Qun (/wiki/Qun) Gallery [ edit ] Notes [ edit ] References [ edit ] ^ a b c Finnane, Antonia (2008). Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation . New York: Columbia University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-231-14350-9 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 84903948 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/84903948) . This clothing (/wiki/Clothing) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Type of tunic or jacket Joseph Stalin's tunic on display at his bunker in Izmaylovo District (/wiki/Izmaylovo_District) , Moscow (/wiki/Moscow) . The Stalin tunic ( Russian (/wiki/Russian_language) : сталинка , romanized (/wiki/Romanization_of_Russian) : stalinka ) is a colloquial term for a type of tunic (/wiki/Tunic) or jacket (/wiki/Jacket) associated with Joseph Stalin (/wiki/Joseph_Stalin) (1878-1953); from the 1920s until the 1950s and beyond, it was commonly worn as a political uniform (/wiki/Political_uniform) by government (/wiki/Government_of_the_Soviet_Union) officials in the Soviet Union (/wiki/Soviet_Union) (and, after World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , by officials in the Soviet satellite states (/wiki/Soviet_Empire) as well). [1] (#cite_note-named-1) History [ edit ] Stalinka evolved from the french ( френч ), a tunic of the Imperial Russian Army (/wiki/Imperial_Russian_Army) , which had appeared in the First World War (/wiki/First_World_War) ; the difference was that the Stalinka had a soft turn-down collar. Its simplistic style came from Stalin's refusal to wear clothing of a more complex nature, as well as eventual tweaks made by Soviet fashion designers that tried to create an image for the leader. [2] (#cite_note-2) Influence [ edit ] This style of attire was chosen by Chinese (/wiki/Mao_suit) , Vietnamese and North Korean Communist leaders. [1] (#cite_note-named-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Леонид Парфенов, «Сталинка» (https://namednibook.ru/stalinka.html) ^ (#cite_ref-2) Fedorova, Inna; RBTH, special to (2014-08-20). "Dressing like a dictator: Stalin's distinctive military chic" (https://www.rbth.com/arts/2014/08/19/dressing_like_a_dictator_stalins_distinctive_military_chic_39137.html) . www.rbth.com . 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(Redirected from Scented water (/w/index.php?title=Scented_water&redirect=no) ) Lightly scented perfume Bottles of eau de toilette Eau de toilette ( French: [o (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) d(ə) (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) twalɛt] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) , meaning "grooming water") [n 1] (#cite_note-2) is a lightly scented perfume. [2] (#cite_note-3) It is also referred to as aromatic waters and has a high alcohol content. [3] (#cite_note-4) It is usually applied directly to the skin after bathing or shaving. [4] (#cite_note-glenn-5) It is traditionally composed of alcohol and various volatile oils (/wiki/Volatile_oils) . [5] (#cite_note-6) Traditionally these products were named after a principal ingredient; some being geranium water, lavender water, lilac water, violet water, spirit of myrcia and 'eau de Bretfeld'. [6] (#cite_note-7) Because of this, eau de toilette was sometimes referred to as "toilet water". [7] (#cite_note-8) In modern perfumery, eau de toilette has less concentrated fragrance than perfume (/wiki/Perfume) ( eau de parfum ) and more than cologne (/wiki/Eau_de_Cologne) ( eau de Cologne ). [8] (#cite_note-BS_Lacey-9) [9] (#cite_note-GL_2010-10) Types [ edit ] Perfume formulas 1910 Eau de toilette is a weaker concentration of fragrance than perfume. [10] (#cite_note-11) [11] (#cite_note-12) The concentration of aromatic ingredients is typically as follows (ascending concentration): Splash and after shave (/wiki/After_shave) : 1–3% aromatic compounds (/wiki/Aromatic_compound) Eau de Cologne (/wiki/Eau_de_Cologne) (EdC): Citrus type perfumes with about 2–6% perfume concentrate aromatic compounds [12] (#cite_note-13) Eau de toilette (EdT): 5–15% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds Eau de parfum (EdP), parfum de toilette (PdT): 10–20% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds. Sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millésime". Perfume extract: 15–40% ( IFRA (/wiki/International_Fragrance_Association) : typical 20%) aromatic compounds Perfume oils are often diluted with a solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water. Perfume has a mixture of about 10–20% perfume oils mixed with alcohol (acting as a diffusing agent delivering the fragrant odor) and a trace of water. Colognes have about 3–5% perfume oil mixed with 80–90% alcohol with about 5–15% water in the mix. Originally, eau de cologne (/wiki/Eau_de_cologne) was a mixture of citrus oils from such fruits as lemons, oranges, tangerines, limes, and grapefruits. These were combined with such substances as lavender and neroli (/wiki/Neroli) (orange-flower oil). Eau de toilette has the least amount of perfume oil mixture among the three main liquid "perfumery" categories. It has only about 2–8% of some type of perfume oil and 60–80% alcohol dispersent with water making up the difference. [13] (#cite_note-14) [14] (#cite_note-Groom329-15) Eau de toilettes are a less concentrated form of these above types of alcohol-based perfumes. [15] (#cite_note-16) [16] (#cite_note-17) Traditionally cologne is usually made of citrus oils and fragrances, while eau de toilettes are not limited to this specification. [17] (#cite_note-18) [18] (#cite_note-19) History [ edit ] Hungarian eau de toilette, an alcohol based perfume that is the predecessor of eau de cologne, was first produced in the fourteenth century, supposedly by a Hungarian man for Queen Elisabeth of Hungary (/wiki/Elisabeth_of_Poland,_Queen_of_Hungary) . [19] (#cite_note-20) [20] (#cite_note-21) This was called "eau de la reine de hongrie" or Hungary Water (/wiki/Hungary_Water) , and contained the herb rosemary (/wiki/Rosemary) , which allowed the scent to evaporate slowly on the skin. [21] (#cite_note-22) [22] (#cite_note-HistoryofPerfume-23) However, some early scientists, including Johann Beckmann (/wiki/Johann_Beckmann) , doubt that it was created for the Queen of Hungary. [ citation needed ] The King of France Louis XIV (/wiki/Louis_XIV) (1638–1715) used a concoction of scents called "heavenly water" to perfume his shirts; It consisted of aloewood (/wiki/Agarwood) , musk (/wiki/Musk) , orange flower (/wiki/Orange_(fruit)) , rose water (/wiki/Rose_water) and other spices (/wiki/Spice) . [23] (#cite_note-Sherrow125-24) Some eau de toilette were once considered restorative skin toners with medical benefits. [24] (#cite_note-25) [25] (#cite_note-26) [26] (#cite_note-27) The journal Medical Record (/wiki/Medical_Record_(journal)) reported in 1905 that a toilet water spray restores energies lost in business, social, and domestic situations. [27] (#cite_note-28) [28] (#cite_note-29) During the fourteenth through sixteenth centuries a type of eau de toilette called "plague waters" was supposed to drive away the bubonic plague (/wiki/Bubonic_plague) . [29] (#cite_note-Stoddart154-30) [30] (#cite_note-31) Varieties [ edit ] Carmelite Water (/wiki/Carmelite_Water) – a water of lemon balm, orange flower, angelica root, and spices prepared for Charles V of France (/wiki/Charles_V_of_France) , first made in 1379 by the nuns of a Carmelite (/wiki/Carmelites) abbey. [31] (#cite_note-32) [32] (#cite_note-homemade-33) [33] (#cite_note-34) [34] (#cite_note-35) Carnation Toilet Water – extract of Jasmine 2.5 pints, extract of Orange Flower 2.5 pints, extract of Rose 5 pints, tincture of Vanilla 20 ounces, Oil of Pink (synthetic) 2 ounces. [35] (#cite_note-36) Creole Toilet Water – to 6.75 ounces of orris root cut in small pieces put 1.5 pint of French brandy. Allow this mix to stand for 2 weeks, stirring frequently. Then filter the mix and add 3 pints of French brandy and 3 drops of oil of orange blossoms. Add 0.75 fluid ounce of oil of geranium. Distill and add a little coumarin essence. [36] (#cite_note-Hopkins875-37) Eau de lavand ambre – a favorite with Spanish women who use it in their hair as well as on the skin after bathing. [37] (#cite_note-38) Florida Water (/wiki/Florida_Water) – based on the nineteenth-century formula for a commercially prepared toilet water that mixes floral essential oils. [38] (#cite_note-39) Geranium Toilet Water – oil of rose geranium, 2 ounces; tincture of orris root, 2 ounces; tincture of musk, 1 drop; rose water, 8 ounces: alcohol, 4 pints. [36] (#cite_note-Hopkins875-37) Heliotrope Toilet Water – heliotropine, 2 drops; rose oil (/wiki/Rose_oil) , 15 minims (/wiki/Minim_(unit)) ; bergamot oil (/wiki/Bergamot_orange) , a half drop; neroli oil, 5 minims; alcohol, 10 ounces; water, 6 ounces. [39] (#cite_note-40) Honey water [14] (#cite_note-Groom329-15) – an old-time English toilet water. The British Pharmaceutical Codex (/wiki/British_Pharmaceutical_Codex) gives the formula. [40] (#cite_note-41) Jasmine toilet water – made with spirits of cologne, jasmine, and alcohol. [41] (#cite_note-42) Kananga Water (/wiki/Kananga_Water) – is a "holy water" used for purification in revival ceremonies. [42] (#cite_note-43) Lavender water [14] (#cite_note-Groom329-15) [43] (#cite_note-44) – a formula called "upper Ten" consists of 1 fluid ounce of oil of lavender, 8 fluid ounces of deodorized alcohol, 3 fluid ounces of rose water, and 80 grains of carbonate of magnesia. [44] (#cite_note-Keppel154-45) Nosegay (/wiki/Nosegay) – distilled honey water with cloves, lavender and neroli. [45] (#cite_note-46) Oriental Toilet Water – an extensive list of ingredients is given in the Useful and Practical Notes section of National Druggist. [46] (#cite_note-47) Rose water toilet water – extract of rose 1 pint, of tuberose 1 pint, of cassia 1 pint, of jasmine 4 ounces, tincture of civet 3 ounces. Popular in the Middle East especially Egypt and called 'maward'. [47] (#cite_note-48) Viennese Cosmetic Toilet Water – bruised almonds, 15 parts; water of orange flower, 62 parts; water of roses, 62 parts. Rub up the almonds with the waters, allow to stand. Later add borate of soda, 1 part; spirit of benzoin, 2 parts. Dissolve. [36] (#cite_note-Hopkins875-37) White Rose Toilet Water – one ounce of triple extract of white rose, 3 drops of oil of rose, 3 drops of oil of rose geranium, 26 ounces of cologne spirits, and 6 ounces of hot water. [44] (#cite_note-Keppel154-45) Hugh C. Muldoonin submitted various toilet water formulas he called "Own-make Toilet Specialties" to the Bulletin Of Pharmacy in 1917. [48] (#cite_note-49) See also [ edit ] Scented water (/wiki/Scented_water) Footnotes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-2) In this context, "toilette"/"toilet" has its older meaning of personal grooming (/wiki/Personal_grooming) ; the name predates the modern sense of "toilet" (/wiki/Toilet) , which was originally euphemistic (/wiki/Euphemism) . [1] (#cite_note-1) References [ edit ] Sources [ edit ] Beckmann, Johann, A History of Inventions and Discoveries: In Four Volumes 2 , 1817 Baker, William Henry, A dictionary of men's wear... , W. H. Baker, 1908 Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, Vol. 61, No. 11, ISSN 0405-668X, Published by Active Interest Media, Inc. Booth, Nancy M., Perfumes, splashes & colognes: discovering & crafting your personal fragrances , Storey Publishing, 1997, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-88266-985-0 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-88266-985-0) Bulletin of pharmacy, Volume 36, E.G. Swift, 1922 Beauty—its attainment and preservation , Butterick Pub. Co., Ltd., 1892 Consumer reports , Volumes 25–26, Consumers Union (/wiki/Consumers_Union) of United States, 1960 Cox, Nancy C., Perceptions of retailing in early modern England , Ashgate Publishing, Ltd., 2007, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7546-3771-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7546-3771-9) Cristiani, Richard S., Perfumery and kindred arts: A comprehensive treatise on perfumery , H. C. Baird, 1877 Current opinion, Volume 32, The Current Literature Publishing Co., 1902 Dewey, Willis Alonzo, Medical century , Volume 14, Medical Century Company., 1906 Ebert, Albert Ethelbert, The Standard formulary , G.P. Engelhard & Co., 1897 Fettner, Ann Tucker, Potpourri, incense, and other fragrant concoctions , Workman Pub. Co., 1977, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-911104-97-6 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-911104-97-6) Fletcher, Ella Adelia, Woman Beautiful , Kessinger Publishing, 1998, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7661-0380-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7661-0380-3) Frank, Marc Henry, Eugenics and Sex Relations for Men and Women , Kessinger Publishing, 2005, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-4179-8913-0 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-4179-8913-0) Griffin, Judy, Flowers That Heal: Aromas, Herbs, Essences and Other Secrets of the Fairies , Cosimo, Inc., 2002, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-931044-35-X (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-931044-35-X) Grolier, The New book of knowledge , Grolier, 1986, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7172-0517-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7172-0517-7) Groom, Nigel, The new perfume handbook , Springer, 1997, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7514-0403-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7514-0403-9) Halpern, Georges M., The Healing Trail: Essential Oils of Madagascar , Basic Health Publications, Inc., 2003, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-59120-016-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-59120-016-4) Hiss, A. Emil, The new standard formulary: , G.P. Engelhard, 1910 Keithler, William R., The formulation of cosmetics and cosmetic specialties , Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1956 Hopkins, Albert Allis, The Scientific American cyclopedia of formulas: partly based upon the 28th ed. of Scientific American cyclopedia of receipts, notes and queries , Munn & co., inc., 1910 Lawless, Julia, The illustrated encyclopedia of essential oils: the complete guide to the use of oils in aromatherapy and herbalism , Barnes & Noble, 1995, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-56619-990-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-56619-990-5) Lillard, Benjamin, Practical druggist and pharmaceutical review of reviews , Volume 40, Lillard & Co., 1922 Martin, George R., The mentor-world traveler, Volume 10, George R. Martin, 1922 Miller, William Tyler, Garden & home builder , volume 13, Doubleday, Page and Company, 1911 Müller, Peter M., Perfumes: art, science, and technology , Springer, 1994, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7514-0157-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7514-0157-9) Sherrow, Victoria, For appearance' sake: the historical encyclopedia of good looks, beauty, and grooming , Greenwood Publishing Group, 2001, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-57356-204-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-57356-204-1) Stoddart, David Michael, The scented ape: the biology and culture of human odour , Cambridge University Press, 1990, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-521-39561-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-521-39561-5) The National Druggist, Volume 42; H. R. Strong, 1912 Citations [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Murray, James (/wiki/James_Murray_(lexicographer)) (1926). "toilet (https://archive.org/stream/oedxaarch#page/n119/mode/1up) sb. §§7,9b" (https://archive.org/stream/oedxaarch#page/n119/mode/1up) . Oxford English Dictionary . Vol. 10 Part 1: Ti–U (1st ed.). Oxford: Clarendon Press. p. 108. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Definition of "toilet water" (https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/toilet-water) " (https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/toilet-water) . Collins English Dictionary (/wiki/Collins_English_Dictionary) . Retrieved 27 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Cristiani, p. 117 ^ (#cite_ref-glenn_5-0) Poch, Glenn (February 1997). "Newsletter 15" (http://www.antiquebottles.com/poch/15.html) . Glenn Poch's Bottle Collecting . Retrieved 5 March 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Cox, p. 118 ^ (#cite_ref-7) Ebert, p. 304 ^ (#cite_ref-8) Lawless, p. 39 ^ (#cite_ref-BS_Lacey_9-0) Lacey, Miriam. "Fragrance Defined: Parfum vs. EDP vs. EDT vs. Cologne" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140301165210/http://www.bellasugar.com/Eau-de-Toilette-Eau-de-Parfum-Parfum-What-Mean-19193129) . bellsugar.com . Bell Sugar. Archived from the original (http://www.bellasugar.com/Eau-de-Toilette-Eau-de-Parfum-Parfum-What-Mean-19193129) on 1 March 2014 . Retrieved 27 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-GL_2010_10-0) Aug 8 2010. "What is the difference between eau de parfum and eau de toilette in perfumes and colognes?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160325025400/http://www.gildedlife.com/2010/08/what-is-the-difference-between-eau-de-parfum-and-eau-de-toilette-in-perfumes-and-colognes/) . gildedlife.com . Gilded Life. Archived from the original (http://www.gildedlife.com/2010/08/what-is-the-difference-between-eau-de-parfum-and-eau-de-toilette-in-perfumes-and-colognes/) on 25 March 2016 . Retrieved 27 July 2014 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_numeric_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-11) Baker, p. 262 ^ (#cite_ref-12) Fettner, p. 102 ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Cologne" (http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/125986/cologne) . Encyclopædia Britannica. ^ (#cite_ref-14) perfume (http://www.answers.com/topic/perfume) ^ a b c Groom, p. 329 ^ (#cite_ref-16) eau de toil definition from the online Free Dictionary (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/eau+de+toilette) ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Thesaurus online dictionary" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170830112601/http://www.thesaurus.com/browse/toilet+water) . Archived from the original (http://thesaurus.com/browse/toilet+water) on 2017-08-30 . Retrieved 2010-08-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Grolier, p. 154 ^ (#cite_ref-19) Consumer reports , pp. 409–411 ^ (#cite_ref-20) Müller, p. 348 ^ (#cite_ref-21) Sherrow, p. 211 ^ (#cite_ref-22) Sherrow, p. 125 ^ (#cite_ref-HistoryofPerfume_23-0) The History of Perfume (http://www.everythinkaboutperfume.com/history.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150208043220/http://www.everythinkaboutperfume.com/history.html) 2015-02-08 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-Sherrow125_24-0) Sherrow, p. 125 King Louis XIV (1638–1715) had his shirts scented with toilet water that included aloewood, rosewood, orangle flower, musk, and spices. The concoction was called "heavenly water" ... ^ (#cite_ref-25) Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, p. 34 ^ (#cite_ref-26) Hiss, pp. 918–919 ^ (#cite_ref-27) Frank, p. 414 ^ (#cite_ref-28) Dewey, p. 55 ^ (#cite_ref-29) Interstate druggist, Volume 7, page 333 (https://books.google.com/books?id=bclNAAAAMAAJ&dq=perfume+%22toilet+water%22+define&pg=PA333) ^ (#cite_ref-Stoddart154_30-0) Stoddart, p. 154 ^ (#cite_ref-31) Dictionary of Traded Goods and Commodities, 1550–1820 by Nancy Cox and Karin Dannehl (http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=58687) ^ (#cite_ref-32) Booth, p. 157 ^ (#cite_ref-homemade_33-0) Reader's Digest – Make your own Fragrance (https://archive.today/20070614152057/http://www.readersdigest.ca/homegarden/n_homegarden_fragrance.html) ^ (#cite_ref-34) Halpern, p. 37 ^ (#cite_ref-35) Booth, p. 82 ^ (#cite_ref-36) Lillard, p. 33 ^ a b c Hopkins, p. 875 ^ (#cite_ref-38) Fletcher, p. 219 ^ (#cite_ref-39) Miller, p. 99 ^ (#cite_ref-40) Hopkins, p. 876 ^ (#cite_ref-41) Hiss, p. 915 ^ (#cite_ref-42) Toilet Water ideas (http://chestofbooks.com/food/household/Housekeeper-Encyclopedia/Toilet-Ideas-Part-2.html) ^ (#cite_ref-43) "kananga water" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090406085520/http://privatewww.essex.ac.uk/~patrickp/papers/RecentJCwords.html#k) . Archived from the original (http://privatewww.essex.ac.uk/~patrickp/papers/RecentJCwords.html#k) on 2009-04-06 . Retrieved 2010-08-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Country Wisdom Almanac: 373 Tips, Crafts, Home Improvements, Recipes, and Homemade Remedies (https://books.google.com/books?id=rahakHd9V2oC&dq=lavender+%22Toilet+water%22&pg=PA73) ^ a b Keppel, p. 154 ^ (#cite_ref-46) Nosegay (http://www.perfumeintelligence.co.uk/library/perfume/n/n3/n3p2.htm) ^ (#cite_ref-47) The National Druggist, Volume 42, p. 65 ^ (#cite_ref-48) Beauty—its attainment and preservation , p. 494 ^ (#cite_ref-49) Bulletin of pharmacy , p. 317 v t e Perfumes (/wiki/Perfume) Overview History (/wiki/History_of_perfume) List of perfumes (/wiki/List_of_perfumes) Types Solid perfume (/wiki/Solid_perfume) Eau de Cologne (/wiki/Eau_de_Cologne) Eau de toilette Essential oils (/wiki/List_of_essential_oils) Pomander (/wiki/Pomander) Chypre (/wiki/Chypre) Fougère (/wiki/Foug%C3%A8re) Ingredients (/wiki/Category:Perfume_ingredients) Plant sources (/wiki/Perfume#Plant_sources) including Herbal distillates (/wiki/Herbal_distillate) Animal sources (/wiki/Perfume#Animal_sources) Synthetic (/wiki/Aroma_compound) Science Aromachology (/wiki/Aromachology) Fragrance wheel (/wiki/Fragrance_wheel) Fragrance extraction (/wiki/Fragrance_extraction) Note (/wiki/Note_(perfumery)) Scentography (/wiki/Scentography) Professions Perfumer (/wiki/Perfumer) Organizations Fragrance Museum (/wiki/Fragrance_Museum) Fragrances of the World (/wiki/Fragrances_of_the_World) International Fragrance Association (/wiki/International_Fragrance_Association) Musée du Parfum (/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_du_Parfum) Osmothèque (/wiki/Osmoth%C3%A8que) Research Institute of Fragrance Materials (/wiki/Research_Institute_of_Fragrance_Materials) Théâtre-Musée des Capucines (/wiki/Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre-Mus%C3%A9e_des_Capucines) The Fragrance Foundation (/wiki/The_Fragrance_Foundation) ISIPCA (/wiki/ISIPCA) Basenotes (/wiki/Basenotes) People Ernest Beaux (/wiki/Ernest_Beaux) Coco Chanel (/wiki/Coco_Chanel) François Coty (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Coty) Ernest Daltroff (/wiki/Ernest_Daltroff) Michael Edwards (/wiki/Michael_Edwards_(fragrance_expert)) Johann Maria Farina (/wiki/Johann_Maria_Farina) Jacques Guerlain (/wiki/Jacques_Guerlain) Adolph Goetting (/wiki/Adolph_Goetting) David H. 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Italian fashion designer (born 1979) Stella Jean Born June 17, 1979 Rome (/wiki/Rome) Nationality Italian (/wiki/Italians) Occupation Fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_design) Stella Novarino , [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) (born 1979), [3] (#cite_note-vogue1-3) is an Italian fashion designer of partial Haitian (/wiki/Haitian_people) origin. Her label, Stella Jean ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ s t ɛ l ə ˈ ʒ ɒ n , (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) - (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ ʒ ɒ̃ / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ), utilizes her mother's maiden name. She is a member of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (/wiki/Camera_Nazionale_della_Moda_Italiana) and the only member of Afro-European (/wiki/Afro-European) background. [4] (#cite_note-4) Education [ edit ] Novarino studied political science at Sapienza University of Rome (/wiki/Sapienza_University_of_Rome) , before dropping out. [5] (#cite_note-businessoffashion1-5) Early career [ edit ] Novarino dropped out of school to model for Egon von Fürstenberg (/wiki/Egon_von_F%C3%BCrstenberg) . [5] (#cite_note-businessoffashion1-5) She decided she wanted to try designing while modeling. [6] (#cite_note-somethingaboutmagazine1-6) She is self taught. Her label uses her mother's maiden name Jean, instead of her birth surname Novarino, to reflect her creole (/wiki/Creole_peoples) heritage. [5] (#cite_note-businessoffashion1-5) She has collaborated with artisans from developing counties (/wiki/Developing_country) including Peru (/wiki/Peru) , Haiti (/wiki/Haiti) , Burkina Faso (/wiki/Burkina_Faso) , Benin (/wiki/Benin) , Mali (/wiki/Mali) , and Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) in producing her collections. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) In 2011, Novarino won second place in a Vogue Italia (/wiki/Vogue_Italia) emerging designers contest. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 2013, she showcased a collection at Armani (/wiki/Armani) /Teatro space during Milan Fashion Week SS14 (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) which included a collaboration with the International Trade Centre (/wiki/International_Trade_Centre) 's Ethical Fashion Initiative to create sustainable printed fabrics. [3] (#cite_note-vogue1-3) [6] (#cite_note-somethingaboutmagazine1-6) [11] (#cite_note-A_Giant's_Helping_Hand-11) For a month in 2014, Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) in London exhibited one of her outfits while highlighting diverse designers. [12] (#cite_note-12) Activism [ edit ] Stella Novarino took the stage at a BLM protest (/wiki/BLM_protests) in June 2020 against racial discrimination in Italy and has later claimed to be the first and only Italian fashion designer to do so. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) In 2021, Novarino co-founded the We Are Made in Italy (WAMI) initiative with Edward Buchanan and Michelle Francine Ngonmo to showcase BIPOC designers with the support of Camera della Moda, including a Milan Fashion Week opening. [15] (#cite_note-15) Despite WAMI's efforts, Camera della Moda (/wiki/Camera_della_Moda) eventually chose not to host a board it advocated for after Novarino publicly posted criticism of other Italian fashion brands. Carlo Capasa (/wiki/Carlo_Capasa) , president of Camera della Moda, stated that it "could not host any board that appeared to take public swipes at other members." [16] (#cite_note-:0-16) [17] (#cite_note-Lefigaro-17) In 2023, Novarino announced that she would withdraw from Milan Fashion Week and begin a hunger strike (/wiki/Hunger_strike) due to the lack of diversity and inclusion of designers of color. [16] (#cite_note-:0-16) Personal life [ edit ] Novarino was born and raised in Rome (/wiki/Rome) with a Haitian (/wiki/Haitians) mother, Violette Jean, and an Italian father, Marcello Novarino. [3] (#cite_note-vogue1-3) She is a mother of two, and resides in Rome with her children. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Stella Jean" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/stella-jean-biography) . Vogue UK . 28 January 2014 . Retrieved 17 November 2021 . Mother Violette Jean ... father, Marcello Novarino. Her decision to use her mother's maiden name for the brand was in order to equally represent both parts of her heritage ^ a b "Stella Jean \| #BoF500" (https://web.archive.org/web/20210123081333/http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/stella-jean) . The Business of Fashion . Archived from the original (http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/stella-jean) on 23 January 2021 . Retrieved 17 November 2021 . Jean, who uses her mother's maiden name for the brand, rather than her given surname Novarino ^ a b c "Stella Jean" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/stella-jean-biography) . Vogue UK . 28 January 2014 . Retrieved 8 March 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Black Creatives in Italian Fashion Demand Cultural Reform" (https://www.voanews.com/europe/black-creatives-italian-fashion-demand-cultural-reform) . VOA News . 17 August 2020 . Retrieved 18 August 2020 . The only Black designer belonging to Italy's influential fashion council is demanding a "long overdue cultural reform ^ a b c "Stella Jean \| #BoF500" (https://web.archive.org/web/20210123081333/http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/stella-jean) . The Business of Fashion . Archived from the original (http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/stella-jean) on 23 January 2021 . Retrieved 8 March 2016 . ^ a b "Stella Jean An Ethical Journey" (http://somethingaboutmagazine.com/stella-jean-takes-us-on-an-ethical-journey-through-responsible-luxury/) . Something About Magazine . Retrieved 8 March 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Stella Jean RTW Spring 2020" (https://wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2020/milan/stella-jean/review/) . Women's Wear Daily . 21 September 2019 . Retrieved 25 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Stella Jean Partners With FAO" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/stella-jean-fao-artisans-kyrgyzstan-sustainability-1234767585/) . Women's Wear Daily . 8 March 2021 . Retrieved 25 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Viaggio in Pakistan per Stella Jean" (https://www.adnkronos.com/viaggio-in-pakistan-per-stella-jean_5rsKKvGQQql0rIIPzBtIOQ) . Adnkronos . 22 September 2019 . Retrieved 25 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Holgate, Mark (12 July 2011). "Big Winner: Angelos Bratis Takes Home the 2011 Italian (http://www.vogue.com/869820/big-winner-angelos-bratis-takes-home-the-2011-italian-emvogueem-who-is-on-next-award/) Vogue (http://www.vogue.com/869820/big-winner-angelos-bratis-takes-home-the-2011-italian-emvogueem-who-is-on-next-award/) "Who Is On Next" Award" (http://www.vogue.com/869820/big-winner-angelos-bratis-takes-home-the-2011-italian-emvogueem-who-is-on-next-award/) . Vogue . Retrieved 8 March 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-A_Giant's_Helping_Hand_11-0) "A Giant's Helping Hand" (https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/24/fashion/Giorgio-Armani-Gives-Young-Designer-a-Hand.html?_r=2&) . The New York Times . Retrieved 8 March 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Men's Ensemble by Stella Jean" (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1282945/ensemble-stella-jean/) , The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 , Victoria and Albert Museum, 20 February 2014 , retrieved 31 December 2023 ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Stella Jean Doesn't Feel Supported by Italian Fashion Chamber in #BLM Battle" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/stella-jean-doesnt-feel-supported-by-italian-fashion-chamber-in-blm-battle-1203695643/) . 7 August 2020. ^ (#cite_ref-14) "The BoF Podcast: Stella Jean Asks 'Do Black Lives Matter in Italian Fashion?' (https://www.businessoffashion.com/podcasts/workplace-talent/the-bof-podcast-stella-jean-camera-della-moda-italian-fashion-industry-racism) " (https://www.businessoffashion.com/podcasts/workplace-talent/the-bof-podcast-stella-jean-camera-della-moda-italian-fashion-industry-racism) . 27 August 2020. ^ (#cite_ref-15) "We Are Made in Italy Fall 2021 Initiative" (https://www.vogue.com/article/we-are-made-in-italy-initiative-fall-2021) . Vogue . Retrieved 25 August 2021 . ^ a b "Stella Jean quits Milan Fashion Week over lack of inclusion" (https://apnews.com/article/stella-jean-italy-business-15ce3f519ca156ae8a4ecdde5123df5d) . AP NEWS . 8 February 2023 . Retrieved 8 February 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Lefigaro_17-0) "Où en est la mode en matière de diversité ?" (https://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/mode-diversite-defiles-createurs-enquete-110321-195685) . Madame Figaro (in French). 11 April 2021 . Retrieved 25 August 2021 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.stellajean.it/) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐79cbf896bd‐2db7f Cached time: 20240708100337 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.311 seconds Real time usage: 0.463 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2301/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 31830/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1087/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 64813/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.186/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7151667/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 437.434 1 -total 34.66% 151.594 1 Template:Reflist 26.66% 116.613 1 Template:Infobox_person 25.47% 111.416 13 Template:Cite_web 22.92% 100.241 1 Template:Short_description 15.98% 69.882 17 Template:Main_other 12.12% 53.012 1 Template:SDcat 7.76% 33.957 2 Template:Pagetype 6.60% 28.890 1 Template:IPAc-en 5.09% 22.280 1 Template:Wikidata_image Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:49682382-0!canonical and timestamp 20240708100337 and revision id 1227420821. 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Ghanaian Fashion Writer and Content Producer Ekow Barnes Portrait of Ekow Born Richmond Ekow Barnes Accra (/wiki/Accra) , Ghana (/wiki/Ghana) Nationality Ghanaian (/wiki/Ghanaian) Education Ghana Secondary Technical School (/wiki/Ghana_Senior_High_Technical_School_(Takoradi)) ; Bluecrest College Occupation(s) Fashion writer and Creative Content Producer Richmond Ekow Barnes , also known as Ekow Barnes, is a Ghanaian fashion writer (/wiki/Fashion_writer) producing fashion content across Africa. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Early life and education [ edit ] Ekow Barnes was born in the Western Region of Ghana (/wiki/Ghana) and attended the Ghana Secondary Technical School (/wiki/Ghana_Senior_High_Technical_School_(Takoradi)) . He attended Bluecrest University College (/wiki/Bluecrest_University_College) , where he earned a Bachelor of Arts (/wiki/Bachelor_of_Arts) degree in Public Relations (/wiki/Public_relations) and Image Management. [4] (#cite_note-4) Career [ edit ] Barnes started his career at Strategic Communications Africa as a PR intern. Ekow later became a fashion consultant (/wiki/Fashion_consultant) at Will & Barnes in Accra (/wiki/Accra) . He has also worked as a model for fashion brands. [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) Barnes has 20+ publications from different magazines and editorials across continents. He has worked on numerous projects involving brands including Facebook (/wiki/Facebook) , Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) , Emirates Airlines (/wiki/Emirates_(airline)) , Mercedes Benz (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz) , Essence (/wiki/Essence_(magazine)) , Glamour Magazine (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) , Uber (/wiki/Uber) , Chiip 0 Neal, [8] (#cite_note-8) and many others. [9] (#cite_note-9) Barnes recently started a New Balance (/wiki/New_Balance) football boots campaign for Senegalese (/wiki/Senegal) player Sadio Mane (/wiki/Sadio_Mane) at the 2022 AFCON tournament in Cameroon. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 2022, he co-founded the WB Group, a production company aimed to promote African creators though international brands. [11] (#cite_note-11) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Mensah, Ernest Aboagye (2021-04-22). "Richmond Ekow Barnes: Not A Mere Man, But A Powerful Experience" (https://kuulpeeps.com/2021/04/22/richmond-ekow-barnes-not-a-mere-man-but-a-powerful-experience/people) . Kuulpeeps - Ghana Campus News and Lifestyle Site by Students . Retrieved 2021-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Boateng, Benewaah (2020-10-29). "Going Global: Inside Ghana's Burgeoning Drill Scene" (https://www.complex.com/music/2020/10/inside-ghana-asakaa-drill-scene/) . Complex . Retrieved 2021-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Nwosu, Amarachi (2016-12-12). "This Fashion Editorial Challenges What It Means To Be An African Man" (https://www.okayafrica.com/kyle-weeks-fashion-editorial-challenges-what-it-means-to-be-african-man/) . OkayAfrica . Retrieved 2021-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Fourteen Exciting Creatives Lighting Up The Year" (https://www.morebranches.com/fourteen-exciting-creatives-lighting-up-the-year/) . MoreBranches . 2021-09-24 . Retrieved 2021-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Aboagye - Mensah (2021-09-09). "Ekow Barnes, The Face Of The African Creative Revolution" (https://whencreativesconnect.com/2021/09/09/meet-ekow-barnes-the-face-of-the-african-creative-revolution/) . Creatives Connect . Retrieved 2021-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Janelle, Door Ashlee (2021-07-26). "Steeds meer jongeren reizen naar Ghana. Dit is de reden waarom het land steeds populairder wordt" (https://www.elle.com/nl/lifestyle/a37127023/jongeren-reizen-ghana-reden/) . ELLE (in Dutch) . Retrieved 2021-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Okwodu, Janelle (2019-06-26). "Meet the Nigerian-American Photographer Tackling Fashion's Complicated Relationship With Race" (https://www.vogue.com/vogueworld/article/photographer-amarachi-nwosu-sankofa-photo-exhibhit-interview) . Vogue . Retrieved 2021-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Teen, Vanity (2019-09-03). "Exclusive: Chiip 0 Neal Backstage Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & New Faces Magazine" (https://www.vanityteen.com/exclusive-chiip-0-neal-backstage/) . www.vanityteen.com . Retrieved 2022-03-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Five unmissable designs at Lagos Fashion Week: as seen by Ekow Barnes" (https://www.gq.co.za/style/style101/five-unmissable-designs-at-lagos-fashion-week-as-seen-by-ekow-barnes-17803482) . www.gq.co.za . 2018-11-07 . Retrieved 2021-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "AFCON 2022: Ghanaian creative content producer, Ekow Barnes, produces campaign for global sportswear brand, New Balance" (https://www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePage/NewsArchive/AFCON-2022-Ghanaian-creative-content-producer-Ekow-Barnes-produces-campaign-for-global-sportswear-brand-New-Balance-1451557) . GhanaWeb . 2022-01-23 . Retrieved 2022-01-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Ghanaian writer and creative producer, Ekow Barnes to Speak at BOF Voices 2022" (https://www.gq.co.za/culture/entertainment/ghanaian-writer-and-creative-producer-ekow-barnes-to-speak-at-bof-voices-2022-1e07b90f-8590-43a8-b434-c6519718e548) . www.gq.co.za . Retrieved 2024-01-08 . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://ekowbarnes.netlify.app/) This Ghanaian biographical article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Ekow_Barnes&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐mtbvc Cached time: 20240712190948 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.503 seconds Real time usage: 0.912 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2102/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 28892/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1342/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 47125/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.318/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6187565/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 743.523 1 -total 35.95% 267.333 1 Template:Infobox_person 24.04% 178.776 1 Template:Reflist 21.61% 160.711 1 Template:Short_description 21.30% 158.378 11 Template:Cite_web 16.25% 120.809 1 Template:Wikidata_image 16.17% 120.211 17 Template:Main_other 12.68% 94.250 1 Template:Ghana-bio-stub 12.57% 93.435 1 Template:SDcat 12.35% 91.845 1 Template:Asbox Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:69230583-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712190948 and revision id 1195234272. 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Indonesian fashion designer and socialite (born 1984) Didit Hediprasetyo Born Ragowo Hediprasetyo Djojohadikusumo ( 1984-03-22 ) 22 March 1984 (age 40) Jakarta (/wiki/Jakarta) , Indonesia Alma mater Parsons School of Design (/wiki/Parsons_School_of_Design) ( Parsons Paris (/wiki/Parsons_Paris) ) [1] (#cite_note-1) Occupation Fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_design) Parents Prabowo Subianto (/wiki/Prabowo_Subianto) (father) Titiek Suharto (/wiki/Titiek_Suharto) (mother) Relatives Margono Djojohadikusumo (/wiki/Margono_Djojohadikusumo) (paternal great-grandfather) Sumitro Djojohadikusumo (/wiki/Sumitro_Djojohadikusumo) (paternal grandfather) Suharto (/wiki/Suharto) (maternal grandfather) Siti Hartinah (/wiki/Siti_Hartinah) (maternal grandmother) Hashim Djojohadikusumo (/wiki/Hashim_Djojohadikusumo) (paternal uncle) Tommy Suharto (/wiki/Tommy_Suharto) (maternal uncle) Tutut Suharto (/wiki/Siti_Hardiyanti_Rukmana) (maternal aunt) Aryo Djojohadikusumo (/wiki/Aryo_Djojohadikusumo) (cousin) Rahayu Saraswati (/wiki/Rahayu_Saraswati) (cousin) Awards Silver Thimble Award Website didithediprasetyo (http://didithediprasetyo.com) .com (http://didithediprasetyo.com) Ragowo Hediprasetyo Djojohadikusumo [a] (#cite_note-2) (born 22 March 1984), mostly known as Didit Hediprasetyo and Didit Prabowo , is an Indonesian fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_design) [2] (#cite_note-3) and socialite (/wiki/Socialite) . He is the only child of Indonesian president-elect Prabowo Subianto (/wiki/Prabowo_Subianto) and Titiek Suharto (/wiki/Titiek_Suharto) . [3] (#cite_note-4) He is also the maternal grandson of former Indonesian president Suharto (/wiki/Suharto) . He is the second designer after Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) and the first Asian designer to design the interior and exterior of a special limited run of the BMW (/wiki/BMW) Individual 7 Series of which only five were produced. [4] (#cite_note-alexanderwang2-5) He rose to prominence after his first design show on Paris Couture Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) Spring/Summer 2010 and during his father's runs for the Indonesian presidency in 2014 and 2019. Early life and education [ edit ] Hediprasetyo was born into one of the most powerful families in Indonesia. His father, Prabowo Subianto (/wiki/Prabowo_Subianto) , is a former chief of the Indonesian Army's Kopassus (/wiki/Kopassus) and Kostrad (/wiki/Kostrad) units and presently serves as Indonesian defense minister after losing two presidential elections. [5] (#cite_note-alexanderwang1-6) [6] (#cite_note-7) Hediprasetyo's mother, Titiek Soeharto (/wiki/Titiek_Soeharto) , is the daughter of Indonesia's second president, Soeharto (/wiki/Soeharto) and Siti Hartinah (/wiki/Siti_Hartinah) . On his father's side, Hediprasetyo is the grandson of Sumitro Djojohadikusumo (/wiki/Sumitro_Djojohadikusumo) , a prominent economist, who served as industry and trade minister (1950–1951) and finance minister (1952–1953 and 1955–1956). He is also the paternal nephew of tycoon Hashim Djojohadikusumo (/wiki/Hashim_Djojohadikusumo) [7] (#cite_note-8) and the maternal nephew of tycoon and convicted murderer Tommy Suharto (/wiki/Tommy_Suharto) . During his childhood, Hediprasetyo considered a range of occupations, such as painter, photographer, historian, theater director and businessman. After joining a Shakespeare (/wiki/Shakespeare) theater workshop at Harvard Summer Extension School, he developed his interest in fashion and then took fashion design as his major. He graduated from the Parsons Paris (/wiki/Parsons_Paris) in 2007. He took courses in painting, photography and art history. In 2018, he was nominated as an Art Fellow by the T. Washington Scholars (/wiki/University_of_Washington) program. [8] (#cite_note-9) Career [ edit ] The designer presented his first Spring/Summer 2010 couture show in the salons of the Hôtel de Crillon (/wiki/H%C3%B4tel_de_Crillon) in January 2010, offering corseted gowns and fitted skirts and shorts, and has since regularly presented collections during Couture week. "I’m trying to focus on younger clientele and offer them couture with a modern twist," he said in 2012, [9] (#cite_note-cbk-10) "My ideal woman is someone who is very cultured, who understands the east and west cultures and who appreciates the aesthetic of the old days of couture, but who at the same time doesn’t take it too seriously. She lives in a realistic world. She might be wearing couture going for a coffee with a friend or going to the beach wearing a simple tank top and short." [9] (#cite_note-cbk-10) Hediprasetyo often gives a nod to his Indonesian origins by including Songket (/wiki/Songket) , a traditional hand woven Indonesian brocade, in his collections. [10] (#cite_note-11) He and artist Golnaz Jebelli collaborated on designing Como 1907 (/wiki/Como_1907) jersey, inspired by the local Lake Como (/wiki/Lake_Como) . [11] (#cite_note-Aira_2024_k972-12) Personal Life [ edit ] According to Akhmad Sahal, a popular Indonesian academician and a graduate of University of Pennsylvania (/wiki/University_of_Pennsylvania) , wrote that Prabowo's son Didit is a part of the LGBT (/wiki/LGBT) community in 2016. [12] (#cite_note-13) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-2) In this Indonesian name (/wiki/Indonesian_name) , the person is referred to by his given name (/wiki/Given_name) , Hediprasetyo, and not by his surname (/wiki/Surname) , Djojohadikusumo. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Didit Hediprasetyo" (http://www.didithediprasetyo.com/#) . Didit Hediprasetyo Official Website . Retrieved 27 June 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) developer, metrotvnews. "Tantangan Sekar Sari Berperan sebagai Tunanetra di Film Sekar" (http://hiburan.metrotvnews.com/film/Zke09Wvb-tantangan-sekar-sari-berperan-sebagai-tunanetra-di-film-sekar) . metrotvnews.com (in Indonesian) . Retrieved 2018-11-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Tokoh JIL Serang Mahfud..." (https://news.republika.co.id/berita/o1jf1k334/tokoh-jil-serang-mahfud-dan-tuding-putra-prabowo-lgbt) Republika . Retrieved 16 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-alexanderwang2_5-0) "Consummate luxury: the BMW Individual 7 Series by Didit Hediprasetyo" (https://www.press.bmwgroup.com/asia/pressDetail.html;jsessionid=jhMLVPlMbVXs5L6mJ882GLMz5tMGJ4JypkvvnLr9nFRKP9L5pJFC!1963000652?title=consummate-luxury-the-bmw-individual-7-series-by-didit-hediprasetyo&outputChannelId=16&id=T0127439EN&left_menu_item=node__4307) . BMWGroup.com . Retrieved June 28, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-alexanderwang1_6-0) "Didit Hediprasetyo, Putra Prabowo yang Mendunia" (https://gaya.tempo.co/read/news/2014/05/29/110581101/Didit-Hediprasetyo-Putra-Prabowo-yang-Mendunia/) . Tempo.co. 29 May 2014 . Retrieved June 28, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Son's presence brings out Prabowo's fatherly side" (http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2014/06/17/son-s-presence-brings-out-prabowo-s-fatherly-side.html) . The Jakarta Post (/wiki/The_Jakarta_Post) . Retrieved 27 June 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "#39 Hashim Djojohadikusumo" (https://www.forbes.com/profile/hashim-djojohadikusumo/) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . Retrieved 27 June 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Didit Hediprasetyo, Jejak Emas di Runway Dunia" (https://swa.co.id/youngster-inc/self-employed/didit-hediprasetyo-jejak-emas-di-runway-dunia) . 6 March 2014. ^ Jump up to: a b Kolesnikov-Jessop, Sonia (February 2012), Didit Hediprasetyo - The Interview (https://couturenotebook.com/couture-news/interview-didit-hediprasetyo-couture) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20171107021751/https://couturenotebook.com/couture-news/interview-didit-hediprasetyo-couture) 2017-11-07 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , couturenotebook.com ^ (#cite_ref-11) Kolesnikov-Jessop, Sonia (January 2014) Spring 2014 Haute Couture: Didit Hediprasetyo Gives Songket a Houndstooth Twist (https://couturenotebook.com/couture-news/didit-hediprasetyo-gives-songket-a-houndstooth-twist-for-ss-2014) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20171107003544/https://couturenotebook.com/couture-news/didit-hediprasetyo-gives-songket-a-houndstooth-twist-for-ss-2014) 2017-11-07 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , couturenotebook.com ^ (#cite_ref-Aira_2024_k972_12-0) Aira, Tidar (2024-02-27). "Jersey Como 1907 hasil desain anak Prabowo Subianto Didit Hediprasetyo dipuji orang Italia: Sangat indah" (https://www.hops.id/sport/amp/29411989517/jersey-como-1907-hasil-desain-anak-prabowo-subianto-didit-hediprasetyo-dipuji-orang-italia-sangat-indah) . Hops ID . Retrieved 2024-02-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Tokoh JIL Serang Mahfud..." (https://news.republika.co.id/berita/o1jf1k334/tokoh-jil-serang-mahfud-dan-tuding-putra-prabowo-lgbt) Republika . Retrieved 16 July 2024 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.didithediprasetyo.com) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f4d649c4d‐rh2rl Cached time: 20240716163934 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.345 seconds Real time usage: 0.639 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2225/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 27762/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2845/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 42342/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.210/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6359693/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 605.873 1 -total 47.74% 289.215 1 Template:Infobox_person 23.84% 144.452 2 Template:Reflist 22.18% 134.397 1 Template:Short_description 21.93% 132.857 1 Template:Wikidata_image 17.37% 105.249 8 Template:Cite_web 17.33% 105.003 20 Template:Main_other 13.88% 84.065 1 Template:SDcat 7.62% 46.184 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 6.27% 37.964 2 Template:Pagetype Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:47096663-0!canonical and timestamp 20240716163934 and revision id 1234882374. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Didit_Hediprasetyo&oldid=1234882374 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Didit_Hediprasetyo&oldid=1234882374) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1984 births (/wiki/Category:1984_births) Living people (/wiki/Category:Living_people) Indonesian Muslims (/wiki/Category:Indonesian_Muslims) People from Jakarta (/wiki/Category:People_from_Jakarta) Fashion designers from Paris (/wiki/Category:Fashion_designers_from_Paris) Javanese people (/wiki/Category:Javanese_people) Banyumasan people (/wiki/Category:Banyumasan_people) Indonesian fashion designers (/wiki/Category:Indonesian_fashion_designers) Indonesian socialites (/wiki/Category:Indonesian_socialites) Cendana family (/wiki/Category:Cendana_family) Djojohadikusumo family (/wiki/Category:Djojohadikusumo_family) Parsons School of Design alumni (/wiki/Category:Parsons_School_of_Design_alumni) Hidden categories: CS1 Indonesian-language sources (id) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Indonesian-language_sources_(id)) Webarchive template wayback links (/wiki/Category:Webarchive_template_wayback_links) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles with hCards (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hCards) No local image but image on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:No_local_image_but_image_on_Wikidata)
American fashion designer and artist This article is an orphan (/wiki/Wikipedia:Orphan) , as no other articles link to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:WhatLinksHere&target=Katy_K.&namespace=0) . Please introduce links (/wiki/Help:Link) to this page from related articles (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special%3ASearch&redirs=1&search=Katy+K.&fulltext=Search&ns0=1&title=Special%3ASearch&advanced=1&fulltext=Katy+K.) ; try the Find link tool (https://edwardbetts.com/find_link?q=Katy_K.) for suggestions. ( September 2022 ) Katy K. Born Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, U.S. Alma mater New York University Occupation Fashion designer Katy K. , (born Katy Kattelman ) is an American fashion designer and performer who was active in the New York Club 57 (/wiki/Club_57_(nightclub)) scene in the 1980s. Her fashion line, Katy K's Ranch Dressing, began in New York and operated in Nashville, Tennessee. [1] (#cite_note-1) Early life [ edit ] Katy Kattelman was born in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Career [ edit ] 1970s-1980s [ edit ] Katy K. moved from Philadelphia to New York City in 1966 to pursue a degree in elementary education at New York University (/wiki/New_York_University) . She later visited Texas, where she discovered country music and rockabilly (/wiki/Rockabilly) style. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) She started designing western style men's shirts and clothes. She returned in New York City and enrolled at Parsons School of Design (/wiki/Parsons_School_of_Design) in 1978, [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) but never completed her degree. Katy K. found success in designing crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) skirts. Club 57 (/wiki/Club_57_(nightclub)) opened in New York City. Katy K. was a regular there. Amy Arbus (/wiki/Amy_Arbus) photographed Katy K. and John Sex (/wiki/John_Sex) [3] (#cite_note-3) for her column in The Village Voice (/wiki/The_Village_Voice) , which appears in her book On the Street: 1980-1990 . The book is the subject of a 2013 documentary about Arbus called On the Street . Katy K. is featured in the documentary. [ citation needed ] 1980s-1990s [ edit ] Nicknamed the "reigning Crinoline Queen" in the 1980s by New York Magazine , Katy K. sold her designs at Fiorucci, Screaming Mimi's, and Patricia Fields. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) One of her petticoat skirts was worn by Whitney Houston (/wiki/Whitney_Houston) in her video "I Wanna Dance with Somebody." [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Katy K.'s close friends included Joey Arias (/wiki/Joey_Arias) , John Sex, Keith Haring (/wiki/Keith_Haring) , and Klaus Nomi (/wiki/Klaus_Nomi) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Katy K.'s time in New York ended in the 1990s when she moved to Nashville. Opened a store in the 12 South neighborhood. [5] (#cite_note-5) Her store, Katy K.'s Ranch Dressing, was one of the first businesses to move into the neighborhood. [ citation needed ] Her second annual fashion show at The Gas Lite Lounge included performances and attendance by Joey Arias (/wiki/Joey_Arias) and Kitten Natividad (/wiki/Kitten_Natividad) . [6] (#cite_note-6) 2000s-2010s [ edit ] In the 2001 book How the West was Worn: A Complete History of Western Wear , Holly George-Warren called Katy K. one of "several young American fashion designers in the 1990s who sought to emulate and reinvent the golden age of Western wear." [7] (#cite_note-7) In 2004, Katy K. brought burlesque (/wiki/Burlesque) to Nashville with her show at Mercy Lounge, called Girlesque V. She originated at Exit/In (/wiki/Exit/In) a few years earlier. She said about the show: "Although the acts can be sexy, they are more a celebration of feminine charms, not a pandering to male patrons." [8] (#cite_note-8) Katy K.'s Ranch Dressing had to closed due to rising rent costs in May 2015. [9] (#cite_note-9) She was a regular at Club 57 on St. Marks in the 1980s. MoMA curated a show about Club 57 in late 2017. [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Dubois, Alice (August 14, 2005). "Katy K's Ranch Dressing in Nashville" (https://www.nytimes.com/2005/08/14/travel/katy-ks-ranch-dressing-in-nashville.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved July 31, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Pett, Sukey (September 21, 1987). "Cotton-Candy Clothier" (https://books.google.com/books?id=l-UCAAAAMBAJ) . New York Magazine . p. 44 . Retrieved April 7, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "On the Street" (https://www.amyarbus.com/on-the-street-1) . Amy Arbus . Retrieved July 31, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Resident Alien Klaus Nomi is Back From Outer Space—25 Years After His Death—With a Wondrous New Disc" (https://www.villagevoice.com/2008/01/08/resident-alien-klaus-nomi-is-back-from-outer-space25-years-after-his-deathwith-a-wondrous-new-disc/) . The Village Voice . January 8, 2008 . Retrieved July 31, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Walters, Kevin (March 16, 2014). "Growth rings local fixtures". The Tennessean . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Duncan, David D. (November 14, 1996). "Sheer Purr-Fection" (https://www.nashvillescene.com/arts_culture/sheer-purr-fection/article_4838a1d8-bb73-577f-b8be-91424fc9bc26.html) . Nashville Scene . Retrieved July 31, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) George-Warren, Holly (2001). How the West was Worn: A History of Western Wear . Harry N. Abrams. p. 364. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0810992566 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Embry, Pat (October 29, 2004). "The art of burlesque blazes on thanks to Katy K and friends". The Tennessean . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Barchenger, Stacey. "12South pioneer Katy K's to close" (https://www.tennessean.com/story/news/local/2015/03/14/katy-ks-closing-nashville-12south-western/24756691/) . The Tennessean . Retrieved July 31, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Club 57: Film, Performance, and Art in the East Village, 1978–1983 \| MoMA" (https://www.moma.org/calendar/exhibitions/3824) . The Museum of Modern Art . Retrieved July 31, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Forget Studio 54 and Mudd: Club 57 Was Where Things Really Went Down" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/club-57-moma-exhibit) . W Magazine . October 31, 2017 . Retrieved July 31, 2021 . 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This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dandie_Fashions&action=edit&section=) . ( February 2020 ) Dandie Fashions Founded October 1966 Founder Freddie Hornik, Alan Holston, John Crittle, Tara Browne, and Neil Winterbotham Defunct 1966 Fate Closed by little to no profit Area served London, England (/wiki/London,_England) Dandie Fashions or sometimes Dandy Fashions was a London fashion boutique founded in 1966, following a chance encounter at the Speakeasy Club (/wiki/Speakeasy_Club) between Freddie Hornik (/wiki/Freddie_Hornik) and Alan Holston (/wiki/Alan_Holston) , who then got together with Australian John Crittle (/wiki/John_Crittle) , the Guinness heir Tara Browne (/wiki/Tara_Browne) and Neil Winterbotham (/wiki/Neil_Winterbotham) , and launched the new business. [1] (#cite_note-Independent-1) Dandie Fashions opened its shop at 161 King's Road (/wiki/King%27s_Road) , Chelsea in October 1966. John Crittle had previously worked for Michael Rainey (/wiki/Michael_Rainey) in his boutique Hung On You (/wiki/Hung_On_You) . Crittle and Tara Browne wanted a retail outlet for their new tailoring company Foster and Tara . In December 1966, Browne died in a car crash, while he was on his way to discuss shop front designs with the graphic artist David Vaughan (/wiki/David_Vaughan_(artist)) . Crittle bought his share of the business. [2] (#cite_note-DIA-2) In this boutique Amanda Lear (/wiki/Amanda_Lear) was arrested in 1967 by the police with drugs belonging to The Rolling Stones (/wiki/The_Rolling_Stones) . [3] (#cite_note-drole-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) Five months after opening their Apple Boutique (/wiki/Apple_Boutique) in Baker Street (which ran from 7 December 1967 to 30 July 1968), the Beatles (/wiki/The_Beatles) invested in Dandie, renaming it Apple Tailoring (Civil & Theatric) . They were attracted to King's Road by the presence of the clothing boutiques Dandie, along with Granny Takes a Trip (/wiki/Granny_Takes_a_Trip) and Hung On You (/wiki/Hung_On_You) . Apple Tailoring opened at the same 161 King's Road premises as Dandie, on 23 May 1968. Neil Aspinall and Apple's accountant Stephen Maltz became directors. John Lennon and George Harrison attended the launch party. However, it never made a profit and closed some months later. [8] (#cite_note-Blaney-8) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-Independent_1-0) Perrone, Pierre (1 May 2009). "Freddie Hornik: Bespoke tailor to the rock aristocracy of the Seventies" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/freddie-hornik-bespoke-tailor-to-the-rock-aristocracy-of-the-seventies-1677080.html) . The Independent . Retrieved 5 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-DIA_2-0) "Dandie Fashions" (http://dandyinaspic.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/dandie-fashions.html) . Dandy in Aspic . Retrieved 5 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-drole_3-0) Dahan, Eric (16 August 2010). "Drôle de dame" (https://next.liberation.fr/culture/2010/08/16/drole-de-dame_672204) . Libération (/wiki/Lib%C3%A9ration) (in French) . Retrieved 19 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Topham, John (/wiki/John_Topham_(photographer)) (20 May 1967). "File n° 0002981" (https://www.topfoto.co.uk/asset/2967454/) . topfoto.co.uk . Retrieved 19 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Daily Mirror" (https://i.pinimg.com/originals/33/8a/a0/338aa0574e10425e85644402e2c38af7.jpg) . British Newspaper Archive (/wiki/British_Newspaper_Archive) . 1967 . Retrieved 19 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "John Crittle: The Dandy Larrikin in London" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190411120223/http://rockpopfashion.com/blog/?p=53) . rockpopfashion.com . 15 February 2008. Archived from the original (http://rockpopfashion.com/blog/?p=53) on 11 April 2019 . Retrieved 19 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Le Parisien (/wiki/Le_Parisien) (22 May 1967). "Le Parisien libéré édition de Paris n°7067 22 mai 1967" (http://museedelapresse.com/parisien-libere-edition-de-paris-le-no-7067/) . museedelapresse.com (in French) . Retrieved 19 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-Blaney_8-0) Blaney, John (2008). Beatles for sale : how everything they touched turned to gold (1st ed.). London: Genuine Jawbone Book. pp. 244–45. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1906002091 . Retrieved 16 July 2014 . 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This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Nina_Morgan-Jones) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Nina_Morgan-Jones) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This biography of a living person (/wiki/Wikipedia:Biographies_of_living_persons) needs additional citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help by adding reliable sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Reliable_sources) . Contentious material (/wiki/Wikipedia:BLPREMOVE) about living persons that is unsourced or poorly sourced (/wiki/Wikipedia:QUESTIONABLE) must be removed immediately from the article and its talk page, especially if potentially libelous (/wiki/Wikipedia:Libel) . 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Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Nina_Morgan-Jones&action=edit) by replacing them with more appropriate citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) to reliable, independent, third-party sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Identifying_and_using_independent_sources) . ( July 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Nina Morgan-Jones (born in South Wales (/wiki/South_Wales) ) is a London/Hollywood based fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) and stylist (/wiki/Personal_stylist) and co-founder of the fashion Company ROMP. [1] (#cite_note-1) Biography [ edit ] At the age of 24, her fashion collection was first shown during London Fashion Week (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) and then went on to sell in the salons of Pret-a-Porter (Paris), Atmosphere (Paris) and The Train (New York and Japan). Morgan-Jones’ style is inspired by the 30s, film noir (/wiki/Film_noir) and 1970's London. ROMP was successful internationally as a natural products brand, selling leather, sheepskin and silk clothing. In 2007 ROMP teamed up with a European tannery (/wiki/Tannery) and produced an organic collection of Soil Association (/wiki/Soil_Association) Certified Organic leather and denim (/wiki/Denim) clothing and accessories. Morgan-Jones worked with organic pioneer Greg Sturmer on the development of the collection. [2] (#cite_note-2) ROMP was the subject of a BBC world (/wiki/BBC_world) documentary [3] (#cite_note-3) and Morgan-Jones’ designs have been featured in magazines such as Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) , Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Marie Claire (/wiki/Marie_Claire) and Condé Nast Traveller (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast_Traveller) . Her designs have since been commissioned by Hollywood shows such as American Idol (/wiki/American_Idol) and Melrose Place (/wiki/Melrose_Place_(2009_TV_series)) and have been featured on the red carpet and on stage for shows such as the MTV Video Music Awards (/wiki/MTV_Video_Music_Awards) and the Academy Awards. ROMP opened its first USA boutique (/wiki/Boutique) in 2008 on West 3rd Street, Los Angeles (/wiki/3rd_Street,_Los_Angeles) . She lives between London, Los Angeles and St Tropez, working on the Romp Boutique Collection and as a freelance design consultant. [4] (#cite_note-4) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) [1] (http://romp.k.com) [ dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-2) Financial Times article-Paul Tyrell (Article not found) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Dyeing for a change-Community Channel (Article not found) ^ (#cite_ref-4) [2] (http://www.romplondon.com) The collections are produced in the French Riviera, Italy and London. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20101103122802/http://www.romplondon.com/) November 3, 2010, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) External links [ edit ] https://rompboutique.com (https://rompboutique.com) Financial Times: Articles about ROMP (http://search.ft.com/search?sortBy=gadatetimearticle&queryText=%22Greg+Sturmer%22) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5f776947c‐wz7nf Cached time: 20240709070417 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.172 seconds Real time usage: 0.537 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 639/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 40228/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 10572/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 18/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 8546/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.085/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 2474174/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 230.477 1 -total 71.78% 165.435 3 Template:Ambox 55.75% 128.481 1 Template:Multiple_issues 27.46% 63.297 1 Template:BLP_sources 22.41% 51.639 1 Template:Authority_control 20.59% 47.458 1 Template:Reflist 9.93% 22.891 1 Template:Webarchive 7.09% 16.338 1 Template:3p 6.10% 14.061 1 Template:Find_sources_mainspace 5.27% 12.150 1 Template:Dead_link Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:26729389-0!canonical and timestamp 20240709070417 and revision id 1097259946. 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American fashion designer Carrie Munn Carrie Munn, in a 1951 advertisement Born Caroline Neunder January 29, 1898 Buffalo, New York Died February 1, 1984 (aged 86) New York, New York Other names Carolyn Nunder (stage name) Spouse Orson Desaix Munn II (/wiki/Orson_Desaix_Munn_II) Carrie Munn (January 29, 1898 – February 1, 1984), born Caroline M. Neunder , was an American fashion designer. Early life [ edit ] Caroline M. Neunder was born in Buffalo, New York (/wiki/Buffalo,_New_York) , [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) the daughter of George F. Neunder and Carolina U. Kreuzer Neunder. Her mother died in 1907. [2] (#cite_note-2) George Griswold Frelinghuysen (/wiki/George_Griswold_Frelinghuysen) was her cousin. [3] (#cite_note-3) Career [ edit ] As Caroline Nunder or Carolyn Nunder , she had a brief stage career, [4] (#cite_note-4) appearing as a showgirl [5] (#cite_note-5) in two Broadway (/wiki/Broadway_theatre) productions, Girl o' Mine (1918) and Aphrodite (1919). [6] (#cite_note-6) She also designed costumes for Sonny (1921). She also published a short book, Everyday Problems in Etiquette: Explained in Pictures (1922). [7] (#cite_note-7) She opened a dress shop in New York City in 1920, to help support her sister after their father's death. [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) Munn, a self-taught seamstress with no formal design training, opened another shop on Madison Avenue in 1941; [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-:2-11) she offered American-made couture gowns, dresses, suits, and separates during World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) and afterwards. [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) She gave parties to show her latest designs to socialites and celebrities, [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [15] (#cite_note-15) including Elizabeth Parke Firestone (/wiki/Elizabeth_Parke_Firestone) [16] (#cite_note-:1-16) and Dorothy Kilgallen (/wiki/Dorothy_Kilgallen) , [17] (#cite_note-17) and often modeled her own creations at society events. [11] (#cite_note-:2-11) [18] (#cite_note-18) Her typical silhouettes featured full skirts and nipped-in waists. [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) "Every bodice is moulded close to the figure with a tiny waist. Do not expect limp sheaths or shirtwaist types from this designer," said a newspaper report of Munn's Fall 1952 collection. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 1957, her name was discussed for a possible appointment to an ambassadorship in Luxembourg or Belgium. [22] (#cite_note-22) Personal life and legacy [ edit ] Munn married lawyer and magazine editor Orson Desaix Munn II (/wiki/Orson_Desaix_Munn_II) in 1924; they had a son, Orson Desaix Munn III, born in 1925. [23] (#cite_note-23) Her husband died in 1958, [24] (#cite_note-24) and she died in 1984, in New York City, a few days after her 86th birthday. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Museums holding works by Carrie Munn include The Henry Ford (/wiki/The_Henry_Ford) [16] (#cite_note-:1-16) and the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (/wiki/Museum_of_Fine_Arts,_Houston) . [25] (#cite_note-25) References [ edit ] ^ a b c "Carrie Munn, Dress Designer In the 40's and 50's, Is Dead" (https://www.nytimes.com/1984/02/18/obituaries/carrie-munn-dress-designer-in-the-40-s-and-50-s-is-dead.html) . The New York Times . 1984-02-18. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2022-07-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Obituary for Caroline U. Neunder (Aged 35)" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106389605/obituary-for-caroline-u-neunder-aged/) . Buffalo Courier . 1907-05-26. p. 13 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Carson Party" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106413269/carson-party/) . The Los Angeles Times . 1960-03-08. p. 30 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-4) The Green Book Magazine . Story-Press association. December 1918. p. 963. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Bapst, Jacob L.; Tribe, Ivan M. (2019-07-26). Beryl Halley: The Life and Follies of a Ziegfeld Beauty, 1897-1988 . McFarland. p. 130. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4766-7643-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Mantle, Burns (1920). The Best Plays of 1919-1920: And the Year Book of the Drama in America . Small, Maynard. p. 391. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Rooney, Andy (1990-03-05). "Children Should Remember to be Kind to the Servants" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106446793/children-should-remember-to-be-kind-to/) . The Pantagraph . p. 7 . Retrieved 2022-07-28 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Bronner, Milton (1923-09-22). "American Girls Shaplier, Better Dressed than British or French, Asserts Modiste" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106446078/american-girls-shaplier-better-dressed/) . Wisconsin State Journal . p. 12 . Retrieved 2022-07-28 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Grift, Josephine van der (/wiki/Josephine_van_der_Grift) (1923-10-31). "Childhood Dreams Make $50,000 a Year for this 24 Year-Old Girl" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106446409/childhood-dreams-make-50000-a-year/) . The Independent-Record . p. 10 . Retrieved 2022-07-28 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Colby, Anita (1957-02-10). "Destiny Hunts Carrie Munn" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106402187/destiny-hunts-carrie-munnanita-colby/) . The Courier-Journal . p. 41 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ a b McCarthy, Julia (1942-04-05). "What They're Wearing" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106402367/what-theyre-wearingjulia-mccarthy/) . Daily News . p. 344 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Fiell, Charlotte (2021-12-07). 1940s Fashion Sourcebook: The Definitive Sourcebook . Welbeck Publishing Group. p. 164. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-80279-164-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Lambert, Eleanor (1947-11-20). "Carrie Munn Winter Collection Features 'Important' Dresses" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106403121/carrie-munn-winter-collection-features/) . Metropolitan Pasadena Star-News . p. 9 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Cabot, Cynthia (1953-03-20). "Once Casual Separates Get 'High Fashion' Rating" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106412062/once-casual-separates-get-high/) . The Philadelphia Inquirer . p. 17 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Shaw, Eleanor (1951-04-22). "Preparing for MacArthur Visit Busies New Yorkers" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106402883/preparing-for-macarthur-visit-busies/) . The Spokesman-Review . p. 47 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ a b "Twenty-Fifth Wedding Anniversary Dress with Jacket, Worn by Elizabeth Parke Firestone, 1946" (https://www.thehenryford.org/collections-and-research/digital-collections/artifact/342948/) . The Henry Ford . Retrieved 2022-07-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Israel, Lee (1980). Kilgallen . Dell. p. 278. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-440-14565-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Gown of the Year" (https://books.google.com/books?id=VkEEAAAAMBAJ&dq=Carrie+Munn+dress&pg=PA161) . Life . December 5, 1949. pp. 161–162. ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Carrie Munn Fashions Echo Eighteenth Century" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106402031/carrie-munn-fashions-echo-eighteenth/) . The Charlotte Observer . 1948-03-17. p. 16 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Carrie Munn Stresses Feminine Silhouette" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106402938/carrie-munn-stresses-feminine-silhouette/) . St. Louis Globe-Democrat . 1950-04-20. p. 23 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Carrie Munn Used Abstract Modern Art to Set Many Themes in Fall Collection" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106402634/carrie-munn-used-abstract-modern-art-to/) . Alabama Tribune . 1952-12-05. p. 2 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-22) Curtis, Olga (1957-01-12). "Mrs. Orson Munn, N. Y. Dress Designer, Has Hope of Becoming U. S. Ambassador" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106413742/mrs-orson-munn-n-y-dress-designer/) . The Gazette . p. 2 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-23) Kerr, Adelaide (1942-11-11). "War Works Many Changes in Lives of Society Crowd" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106410848/war-works-many-changes-in-lives-of/) . The Birmingham News . p. 18 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Orson Munn, Attorney, at 75" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/106413618/orson-munn-attorney-at-75/) . Newsday (Suffolk Edition) . 1958-12-23. p. 86 . Retrieved 2022-07-27 – via Newspapers.com. ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Carrie Munn" (https://emuseum.mfah.org/people/6323/carrie-munn) . The MFAH Collections . Retrieved 2022-07-26 . External links [ edit ] Carrie Munn (https://www.ibdb.com/broadway-cast-staff/423565) at the Internet Broadway Database (/wiki/Internet_Broadway_Database) Carrie Munn (https://www.playbill.com/person/0000038705) at Playbill Vault (/wiki/Playbill#Other_media) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐dc899b7cc‐k6jq9 Cached time: 20240721181604 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.517 seconds Real time usage: 0.614 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2741/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 46667/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1394/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 10/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 93656/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.320/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6237236/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 569.893 1 -total 50.98% 290.544 1 Template:Reflist 35.74% 203.689 17 Template:Cite_news 21.39% 121.895 1 Template:Infobox_person 14.46% 82.428 1 Template:Short_description 7.83% 44.631 2 Template:Pagetype 6.67% 38.004 16 Template:Main_other 4.85% 27.658 5 Template:Cite_book 4.40% 25.080 1 Template:IBDB_name 4.25% 24.224 1 Template:Authority_control Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:71397115-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721181604 and revision id 1135632744. 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Danish designer Jim-Martin Alexandar Konstantin Falke-Skjold Wegener Lyngvild [1] (#cite_note-1) Born Jim Martin Alexandar Lyngvild ( 1978-12-27 ) 27 December 1978 (age 45) Holbæk (/wiki/Holb%C3%A6k) , Denmark Education Fashion Design Akademiet Occupation(s) Designer, writer, fashion columnist Spouse Morten Paulsen (2007–) Jim Lyngvild (born 27 December 1978) is a Danish designer, writer, photographer, fashion columnist and television personality. Career [ edit ] Lyngvild grew up in Albertslund (/wiki/Albertslund) and was educated at Fashion Design Akademiet in Copenhagen (/wiki/Copenhagen) in 2000–2002. [2] (#cite_note-2) He writes about fashion for the newspaper Ekstra Bladet (/wiki/Ekstra_Bladet) . He has also written several books. [3] (#cite_note-berlingske-3) He has participated in a number of reality television shows including Robinson Ekspeditionen 2005 (/wiki/Robinson_Ekspeditionen_2005) , Til middag hos.., 4-stjerners Middag (/w/index.php?title=4-stjerners_Middag&action=edit&redlink=1) , 4-stjerners Rejse (/w/index.php?title=4-stjerners_Rejse&action=edit&redlink=1) , Zulu Djævleræs (/wiki/Zulu_Dj%C3%A6vler%C3%A6s) and Britain's Got Talent (/wiki/Britain%27s_Got_Talent) in 2009. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2018 Lyngvild designed an exhibition about the Viking Age (/wiki/Viking_Age) for the National Museum of Denmark (/wiki/National_Museum_of_Denmark) . This led to some criticism of the museum for having hired a non-scholar at a time when it recently had fired 34 employees, including several experts on the Viking Age. [5] (#cite_note-5) In 2021 he created a series of photographs for an exhibition at the Køge Museum (/wiki/K%C3%B8ge_Museum) where ten famous Danish women posed as völvas (/wiki/Seeress_(Germanic)) , a type of pre-Christian seeress. The series created a public polemic because one of the models was Ane Halsboe-Jørgensen (/wiki/Ane_Halsboe-J%C3%B8rgensen) , recently appointed Minister for Culture (/wiki/Minister_for_Culture_(Denmark)) and Ecclesiastical Affairs (/wiki/List_of_Ministers_for_Ecclesiastical_Affairs_of_Denmark) . Lyngvild said she participated in her role as Minister for Culture and he would not have asked her if she only had been Minister for Ecclesiastical Affairs. [6] (#cite_note-6) Personal life [ edit ] Lyngvild is homosexual and married his husband Morten in 2007. The couple live in their 400 square meter "viking castle" Ravnsborg in southwestern Funen (/wiki/Funen) . Lyngvild adheres to Scandinavian polytheism (/wiki/Heathenry_(new_religious_movement)) , asatro , and says that the faith is an important part of his life. [3] (#cite_note-berlingske-3) He designed and built the religious building Manheim (/wiki/Manheim_(hof)) close to his home in 2016. [7] (#cite_note-7) Bibliography [ edit ] Children's and young adult fiction [ edit ] Nordisk mytologi (Carlsen, 2009) Skyggernes bog (Carlsen, 2009) Alfemod og ulveblod (Carlsen, 2010) Epos og enhjørningen (Carlsen, 2010) Urials krone (Carlsen, 2010) Skyggernes bog: på opdagelse i eventyrlandet Anglesey (Carlsen, 2011) Kongen: Skyggernes bog & Urials krone (Carlsen, 2012) Factbooks [ edit ] Vild med heste (Carlsen, 2012) Vild med vikinger (Carlsen, 2013) Vild med mode (Carlsen, 2013) Fashion and lifestyle [ edit ] Mary – prinsesse med stil (Aschehoug, 2006) Skøn som du er (Nyt Nordisk Forlag, 2007) Eye wear: fashion, styling & makeup (Frands Jensen A/S, 2010) Ja, vi skal giftes! (Politikens Forlag, 2010) Vild med Mary (Politikens Forlag, 2011) Europas kronprinsesser (Politikens Forlag, 2012 co-written with Karen Seneca) Mit vilde vikingekøkken (Lindhardt & Ringhof, 2013) Novels [ edit ] Schyyy -! (Lindhardt & Ringhof, 2010) Autobiography [ edit ] Møgunge (Politikens Forlag, 2016) External sources [ edit ] Jim Lyngvild (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm2065348/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) References [ edit ] Children and Young Adult Literature portal (/wiki/Portal:Children_and_Young_Adult_Literature) ^ (#cite_ref-1) Vidste du det? Her er Jim Lyngvilds rigtige navn (https://www.seoghoer.dk/nyheder/her-er-jim-lyngvilds-rigtige-navn#billede-1079-2) . Se og Hør (/wiki/Se_og_H%C3%B8r) ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Designer om Jim: 'Det største talent jeg har mødt' (https://ekstrabladet.dk/flash/dkkendte/designer-om-jim-det-stoerste-talent-jeg-har-moedt/7212768) " (https://ekstrabladet.dk/flash/dkkendte/designer-om-jim-det-stoerste-talent-jeg-har-moedt/7212768) . Ekstra Bladet (/wiki/Ekstra_Bladet) (in Danish) . Retrieved 13 September 2021 . ^ a b "Jim Lyngvild: Jeg har en enorm magt" (https://www.berlingske.dk/aok/jim-lyngvild-jeg-har-en-enorm-magt) . Berlingske Tidende (/wiki/Berlingske_Tidende) (in Danish) . Retrieved 13 September 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Jim Lyngvild´s Got Talent!" (http://tvtid.tv2.dk/nytomtv/article.php/id-22772755%3Ajim-lyngvilds-got-talent.html) (in Danish). TV 2 (/wiki/TV_2_(Denmark)) . Retrieved 13 September 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Jim Lyngvild forsvarer kritiseret udstilling: Ingen har været idioter fra starten – jeg ved rigtig meget om vikinger" (https://www.dr.dk/nyheder/kultur/historie/jim-lyngvild-forsvarer-kritiseret-udstilling-ingen-har-vaeret-idioter-fra) . dr.dk (/wiki/DR_(broadcaster)) (in Danish) . Retrieved 13 September 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Hein Møller, Nynne; Thrane Dyrholm, Casper (2 September 2021). "Kulturminister beskyldes for at reklamere for 'djævelskab': Nu forsvarer museum omdiskuteret Jim Lyngvild-værk" (https://www.dr.dk/nyheder/kultur/kulturminister-beskyldes-reklamere-djaevelskab-nu-forsvarer-museum-omdiskuteret-jim) . dr.dk (/wiki/DR_(broadcaster)) (in Danish) . Retrieved 13 September 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Del (30 May 2016). "Kendis-designer åbner 12-meter højt tempel til ære for Odin og Thor" (http://nyheder.tv2.dk/2016-05-30-kendis-designer-aabner-12-meter-hoejt-tempel-til-aere-for-odin-og-thor) (in Danish). nyheder.tv2.dk . Retrieved 23 December 2018 . Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/307256867) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJkD3McgPmDpYWvwXPfXh3) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/1020660325) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n2007087860) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐cwrgz Cached time: 20240713032515 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.364 seconds Real time usage: 0.484 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2071/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 22393/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1738/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 30764/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.240/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6492494/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 458.208 1 -total 32.32% 148.095 1 Template:Infobox_person 23.95% 109.739 1 Template:Reflist 19.21% 88.011 5 Template:Cite_news 16.13% 73.910 1 Template:Authority_control 14.86% 68.102 1 Template:Short_description 12.02% 55.084 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 9.59% 43.942 1 Template:Birth_date_and_age 7.87% 36.047 2 Template:Pagetype 7.69% 35.239 19 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:59469806-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713032515 and revision id 1223468623. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jim_Lyngvild&oldid=1223468623 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jim_Lyngvild&oldid=1223468623) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1978 births (/wiki/Category:1978_births) Living people (/wiki/Category:Living_people) Danish designers (/wiki/Category:Danish_designers) 21st-century Danish writers (/wiki/Category:21st-century_Danish_writers) Danish children's writers (/wiki/Category:Danish_children%27s_writers) Danish columnists (/wiki/Category:Danish_columnists) Danish modern pagans (/wiki/Category:Danish_modern_pagans) Adherents of Germanic neopaganism (/wiki/Category:Adherents_of_Germanic_neopaganism) Modern pagan novelists (/wiki/Category:Modern_pagan_novelists) People from Holbæk Municipality (/wiki/Category:People_from_Holb%C3%A6k_Municipality) People from Albertslund Municipality (/wiki/Category:People_from_Albertslund_Municipality) Modern pagan artists (/wiki/Category:Modern_pagan_artists) 21st-century Danish photographers (/wiki/Category:21st-century_Danish_photographers) Hidden categories: CS1 Danish-language sources (da) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Danish-language_sources_(da)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Use dmy dates from January 2019 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_January_2019) Articles with hCards (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hCards) Articles with VIAF identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_VIAF_identifiers) Articles with WorldCat Entities identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_WorldCat_Entities_identifiers) Articles with GND identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_GND_identifiers) Articles with LCCN identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_LCCN_identifiers)
British stylist and fashion designer (born 1970) Clare Waight Keller Born Clare Waight ( 1970-08-19 ) 19 August 1970 (age 53) Birmingham (/wiki/Birmingham) , England Education Ravensbourne University (/wiki/Ravensbourne_(college)) Royal College of Art (/wiki/Royal_College_of_Art) Occupation Fashion designer Spouse Philip Keller Children 3 Clare Waight Keller (born 19 August 1970) is a British stylist (/wiki/Wardrobe_stylist) and fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) , who has served as the artistic director (/wiki/Artistic_director) for a number of luxury fashion houses and brands, including Pringle of Scotland (/wiki/Pringle_of_Scotland) , Chloé (/wiki/Chlo%C3%A9) , and Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) . [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) In 2023, she launched a collection with Japanese mass-market brand Uniqlo (/wiki/Uniqlo) . [3] (#cite_note-3) 2024 Early life and education [ edit ] Keller was born in Birmingham (/wiki/Birmingham) , England on 19 August 1970. [4] (#cite_note-4) She studied at Ravensbourne College of Art (/wiki/Ravensbourne_(college)) ,now Ravensbourne University London (/wiki/Ravensbourne_University_London) , where she graduated with a bachelor's degree in Fashion, followed by a master's degree at the Royal College of Art (/wiki/Royal_College_of_Art) . [5] (#cite_note-Vogue-5) Career [ edit ] She started her career at Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) in New York (/wiki/New_York_(state)) as a stylist for the women's ready-to-wear line, then at Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) , for the Purple Label menswear line. [6] (#cite_note-6) In 2000, she was hired by Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) to join Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) , responsible for women's ready-to-wear and accessories, until her departure in 2004. [5] (#cite_note-Vogue-5) The following year, she became artistic director of Pringle of Scotland (/wiki/Pringle_of_Scotland) . [7] (#cite_note-Pringle-7) In 2007, she received the Scottish Fashion Awards 'Designer of the Year' in the cashmere (/wiki/Cashmere_wool) category. [8] (#cite_note-8) She resigned her position at Pringle of Scotland in 2011. [7] (#cite_note-Pringle-7) In the same year, she moved to Paris where she became the artistic director of Chloé (/wiki/Chlo%C3%A9) . In 2017, Keller was appointed artistic director of haute couture and ready-to-wear for women and men at Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) . [9] (#cite_note-9) Replacing Riccardo Tisci (/wiki/Riccardo_Tisci) , she was the first woman to hold the position at the company. [10] (#cite_note-10) She designed the wedding dress (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Meghan_Markle) which Meghan Markle (/wiki/Meghan_Markle) wore for her wedding (/wiki/Wedding_of_Prince_Harry_and_Meghan_Markle) to Prince Harry, Duke of Sussex (/wiki/Prince_Harry,_Duke_of_Sussex) , on 19 May 2018. [11] (#cite_note-11) For her second couture show, Waight Keller went through Givenchy's archives, and used modern materials "to create something that floats". [12] (#cite_note-12) In January 2019, for autumn/winter 19, Waight Keller presented her first standalone menswear collection for Givenchy in Paris (/wiki/Paris) . It was an intimate salon show that just consisted of 17 looks with a complete day to evening wardrobe. While future Givenchy ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) and haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) shows will remain combined, this means Waight Keller's vision of Givenchy menswear (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) is given its own stage. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) She left Givenchy on 10 April 2020. [15] (#cite_note-15) In August 2023, she announced a line with Uniqlo, Uniqlo : C. The 34-piece collection launched in September 2023, available online and in 1,500 stores across the globe. [16] (#cite_note-16) Awards and honours [ edit ] At the 2018 British Fashion Awards (/wiki/The_Fashion_Awards) , Keller was presented the British Designer of the Year Womenswear Award (/wiki/The_Fashion_Awards#British_Designer_of_the_Year_-_Womenswear) by Meghan, Duchess of Sussex (/wiki/Meghan,_Duchess_of_Sussex) and actress Rosamund Pike (/wiki/Rosamund_Pike) . [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) In 2019, Time magazine (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) included Keller in its annual list of the most influential people of the year. [20] (#cite_note-20) Personal life [ edit ] She is married to Philip Keller, an architect. They have three children, twins Amelia and Charlotte, and Harrison. [21] (#cite_note-21) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Friedman, Vanessa (1 October 2017). "The Verdict on Clare Waight Keller's Givenchy" (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/01/fashion/paris-fashion-week-givenchy-clare-waight-keller.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 3 February 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Cartner-Morley, Jess (1 October 2017). "Clare Waight Keller's first Givenchy show is sweetness and light" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/oct/01/clare-waight-kellers-first-givenchy-show-is-sweetness-and-light) . The Guardian . Retrieved 3 February 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Chen, Cathaleen (16 August 2023). "Uniqlo Taps Clare Waight Keller for Fall Capsule" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/retail/uniqlo-taps-clare-waight-keller-for-fall-capsule/) . The Business of Fashion . Retrieved 7 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Clare Waight Keller" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180117011938/https://www.givenchy.com/america/en/maison-clare-waight-keller-biography.html) . Givenchy. Archived from the original (https://www.givenchy.com/america/en/maison-clare-waight-keller-biography.html) on 17 January 2018. ^ Jump up to: a b Niven, Lisa (24 March 2009). "Clare Waight Keller" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/clare-waight-keller) . Vogue . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Clare Waight Keller" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/clare-waight-keller) . Business of Fashion . Retrieved 3 February 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b Milligan, Lauren (11 March 2011). "Pringle Resignation" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/clare-waight-keller-resigns-from-pringle-of-scotland) . Vogue . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Williams, Janice. "Who is Clare Waight Keller? Meghan Markle's Wedding Dress Designed by Givenchy's Creative Director" (http://www.newsweek.com/clare-waight-keller-royal-wedding-935083) . Newsweek . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Phelps, Nicole (16 March 2017). "Clare Waight Keller Is Givenchy's New Artistic Director" (https://www.vogue.com/article/givenchy-designer-clare-waight-keller-artistic-director-announcement) . Vogue . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Cochrane, Lauren (16 March 2017). "Clare Waight Keller becomes the first female artistic director at Givenchy" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/mar/16/clare-waight-keller-becomes-the-first-female-artistic-director-at-givenchy) . The Guardian . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Friedman, Vanessa (19 May 2018). "Meghan Markle's Wedding Dress by Clare Waight Keller for Givenchy: First Photos" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/19/style/meghan-markle-wedding-dress.html) . The New York Times . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Ferrier, Morwenna (1 July 2018). "Clare Waight Keller's second Givenchy couture show celebrates its founder's legacy" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/02/clare-waight-keller-show-paris-celebrates-hubert-de-givenchy-legacy) . The Guardian . Retrieved 2 July 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Clare Waight Keller Is Staging Her First Stand-Alone Givenchy Menswear Show—Here's What to Expect" (https://www.vogue.com/article/fall-2019-menswear-givenchy-clare-waight-keller-preview) . 16 January 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Salter, Steve; White, Ryan (17 January 2019). "clare waight keller gave us 'perverse posh' menswear at givenchy" (https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/wjmeny/clare-waight-keller-gave-us-perverse-posh-menswear-at-givenchy) . I-D . Retrieved 21 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Elan, Priya (10 April 2020). "Clare Waight Keller, Meghan's wedding dress designer, leaves Givenchy" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/apr/10/clare-waight-keller-meghans-wedding-dress-designer-leaves-givenchy) . The Guardian . Retrieved 10 April 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Phelps, Nicole (16 August 2023). "Clare Waight Keller, of Givenchy and Chloé Fame, Is the Designer Behind Uniqlo's Newest Label" (https://www.vogue.com/article/uniqlo-c-clare-waight-keller-launch) . Vogue . Retrieved 7 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, honors Clare Waight Keller in surprise awards appearance" (https://www.cnn.com/style/article/meghan-duchess-of-sussex-british-fashion-awards/index.html) . CNN Style . 11 December 2018 . Retrieved 11 December 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Staff, C. N. N. (11 December 2018). "Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, honors Clare Waight Keller in surprise awards appearance" (https://www.cnn.com/style/article/meghan-duchess-of-sussex-british-fashion-awards/index.html) . CNN Style . Retrieved 11 December 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Qui sont les grands vainqueurs des British Fashion Awards 2018 ?" (https://www.numero.com/fr/Mode/fashion-awards-2018-londres-virgil-abloh-kaia-gerber-craig-green-pierpaolo-piccioli-vivienne-westwood-kim-jones) . Numéro Magazine . Retrieved 19 March 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Time 100 Most Influential People 2019" (https://time.com/collection/100-most-influential-people-2019/) . Time . Retrieved 3 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Levine, Joshua (28 March 2016). "Designing Beyond Chloé: Inside Clare Waight Keller's Parisian Home" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/designing-beyond-chloe-inside-clare-waight-kellers-parisian-home-1459180397) . Wall Street Journal . 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Antiguan-American model and activist This biography of a living person (/wiki/Wikipedia:Biographies_of_living_persons) needs additional citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help by adding reliable sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Reliable_sources) . Contentious material (/wiki/Wikipedia:BLPREMOVE) about living persons that is unsourced or poorly sourced (/wiki/Wikipedia:QUESTIONABLE) must be removed immediately from the article and its talk page, especially if potentially libelous (/wiki/Wikipedia:Libel) . Find sources: "Aaron Rose Philip" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Aaron+Rose+Philip%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Aaron+Rose+Philip%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Aaron+Rose+Philip%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Aaron+Rose+Philip%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Aaron+Rose+Philip%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Aaron+Rose+Philip%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( July 2022 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Aaron Rose Philip Born ( 2001-03-15 ) March 15, 2001 (age 23) Antigua (/wiki/Antigua) Occupation(s) Model (/wiki/Model_(person)) , artist, author Years active 2018–present Modeling information Height 5 ft 4 in (1.63 m) [1] (#cite_note-autogenerated3-1) Hair color Black Eye color Brown Manager Community New York (/w/index.php?title=Community_New_York&action=edit&redlink=1) (New York) [1] (#cite_note-autogenerated3-1) Aaron Rose Philip (pronounced A-ron, born March 15, 2001) is an Antiguan-American model. [2] (#cite_note-:62-2) [3] (#cite_note-autogenerated222-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-autogenerated122-5) [6] (#cite_note-:022-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-:122-9) In 2018, she became the first black, transgender, and physically disabled model to ever be represented by a major modeling agency and has since modeled in several major high fashion photo shoots and campaigns. [6] (#cite_note-:022-6) [9] (#cite_note-:122-9) [10] (#cite_note-glamour-5sep201922-10) In 2021, Philip debuted as an exclusive for Moschino (/wiki/Moschino) 's spring/summer 2022 fashion show - making her the first model using a wheelchair to walk for a major luxury fashion brand. Career [ edit ] In 2016 at age 14, Philip published a memoir called This Kid Can Fly: It's About Ability (Not Disability) detailing her experiences growing up with cerebral palsy (/wiki/Cerebral_palsy) . The book was co-written with Tanya Bolden (/wiki/Tonya_Bolden) and published by HarperCollins (/wiki/HarperCollins) . Philip was a high school junior when she decided to pursue modeling. She was discovered through her social media where she took notice of the lack of representation of trans women of color within the fashion industry, let alone anyone with a disability. Philip has actively worked towards an inclusive industry via her editorial features in W (/wiki/W_(magazine)) , i-D (/wiki/I-D) , Dazed (/wiki/Dazed) , ELLE (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) , Allure (/wiki/Allure_(magazine)) , and Paper (/wiki/Paper_(magazine)) magazines, and also on Refinery29 (/wiki/Refinery29) and Now This (/wiki/NowThis_News) . In 2018, Philip was also subject to a profile in The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , hailing Philip's career as a sign of a more diverse industry. Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) (magazine) recently featured and photographed Aaron with her friend, Chella Man (/wiki/Chella_Man) , discussing the lack of disabled representation. Philip graced the cover of Paper (/wiki/Paper_(magazine)) magazine's "Pride" issue, interviewed by supermodel Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) . She also appeared on the September issue cover of S moda for El Pais and the Spring/Summer 21 cover of INDIE. Philip has shot editorials for American Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , British Vogue (/wiki/British_Vogue) , and Vogue Italia (/wiki/Vogue_Italia) , and has appeared in campaigns for Dove (/wiki/Dove_(toiletries)) , Sephora (/wiki/Sephora) , Outdoor Voices (/wiki/Outdoor_Voices) , and Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) . Philip starred in the music video for Miley Cyrus (/wiki/Miley_Cyrus) ' song " Mother's Daughter (/wiki/Mother%27s_Daughter_(song)) ," which has received over 100 million views to date. Philip made her first runway appearance in 2019 when she closed a show for Willie Norris Workshop. Philip has also modeled for Collina Strada's digital runway shows and in the brand's lookbooks. Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) has also made Philip one of the designer's closest, most frequent collaborators, working with her on various media projects. In 2019, Philip made her television debut on TBS (/wiki/TBS_(American_TV_channel)) 's Full Frontal with Samantha Bee (/wiki/Full_Frontal_with_Samantha_Bee) . In 2020, Jeremy Scott (/wiki/Jeremy_Scott) , creative director of Italian luxury fashion brand Moschino (/wiki/Moschino) then tapped her as the face of the brand's fall/winter 2020 campaign, shot by photographers Luigi + Iango. In 2021, Philip debuted exclusively for Moschino (/wiki/Moschino) 's spring/summer 2022 runway show at New York Fashion Week, making her the first model using a wheelchair to walk a runway show for a major luxury fashion brand. In 2023, Philip appeared on the cover of British Vogue (/wiki/British_Vogue) 's May issue [11] (#cite_note-11) alongside actor Selma Blair (/wiki/Selma_Blair) , writer and disability advocate Sinéad Burke (/wiki/Sin%C3%A9ad_Burke) , model Ellie Goldstein (/wiki/Ellie_Goldstein) and ASL (/wiki/American_Sign_Language) interpreter (/wiki/Language_interpretation) /performer Justina Miles (/wiki/Justina_Miles) . [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) She is currently represented by Community New York and Milk Management London. Personal life [ edit ] Philip was born in Antigua and Barbuda (/wiki/Antigua_and_Barbuda) and diagnosed with cerebral palsy (/wiki/Cerebral_palsy) as a baby. Philip and her family relocated to the United States when she was only three years old and they have lived in the Bronx, New York (/wiki/The_Bronx) , ever since. Philip has been on the internet since a young age, most notably starting on her Tumblr (/wiki/Tumblr) blog 'Aaronverse.' When she was only 12, her blog was noticed by former Tumblr CEO David Karp (/wiki/David_Karp) and she spoke at Tumblr (/wiki/Tumblr) 's headquarters about her blog and living with cerebral palsy. In 2015, when Philip was 14, she came out as gender-fluid (/wiki/Non-binary_gender) , and had identified as gender nonconforming (/wiki/Gender_variance) / non-binary (/wiki/Non-binary_gender) for several years. In 2018, Philip came out as a transgender woman (/wiki/Trans_woman) . Philip credits Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) and Jillian Mercado (/wiki/Jillian_Mercado) as influences who inspired her to become a model and work towards a more inclusive fashion industry. Recognition [ edit ] Philip was listed as part of Teen Vogue (/wiki/Teen_Vogue) 's 21 Under 21 for 2018 and 2020. [14] (#cite_note-14) In 2019, Out (/wiki/Out_(magazine)) magazine named Philip and Teddy Quinlivan (/wiki/Teddy_Quinlivan) as Out100 (/wiki/Out100) Models of the Year. [15] (#cite_note-out-22nov2019-15) Philip was recognized as a Dazed 100 (/wiki/Dazed) model in 2019, which recognizes prominent influences in youth culture. [16] (#cite_note-:43-16) In February 2020, Philip was featured on Beyoncé's (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) website as a part of the "This is Black History" series of #BEYGOOD. [17] (#cite_note-17) See also [ edit ] LGBT culture in New York City (/wiki/LGBT_culture_in_New_York_City) List of LGBT people from New York City (/wiki/List_of_LGBT_people_from_New_York_City) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Elite Model Management - Aaron Philip - Portfolio" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180929041422/http://www.elitemodel.com/newyork/development/aaron-philip/portfolio/) . Archived from the original (http://www.elitemodel.com/newyork/development/aaron-philip/portfolio/) on 2018-09-29 . Retrieved 2018-09-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-:62_2-0) "ELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT \| AARON PHILIP \| COVERS" (https://web.archive.org/web/20201026170224/https://www.elitemodel.com/newyork/image/aaron-philip/covers/) . www.elitemodel.com . Archived from the original (https://www.elitemodel.com/newyork/image/aaron-philip/covers/) on 2020-10-26 . Retrieved 2020-10-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-autogenerated222_3-0) Blint-Welsh, Tyler (31 August 2018). "A Path to the Runway, Paved With Hardship" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/08/31/us/cerebral-palsy-transgender-fashion-model.html) . The New York Times . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "From Homelessness to Fashion Modeling" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/01/us/from-homelessness-to-fashion-modeling.html) . The New York Times . 1 September 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-autogenerated122_5-0) "This disabled trans teenager is changing the world of modelling" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/aaron-philip-model-disabled-gender-fluid-changing-fashion-industry-asos-a8366861.html) . The Independent . 24 May 2018. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180524173939/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/aaron-philip-model-disabled-gender-fluid-changing-fashion-industry-asos-a8366861.html) from the original on 2018-05-24. ^ Jump up to: a b "Trans model with cerebral palsy Aaron Philip signed by major modelling agency - PinkNews · PinkNews" (https://www.pinknews.co.uk/2018/09/08/aaron-philip-modelling-agency/) . www.pinknews.co.uk . 8 September 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Aaron Philip Just Became the First Disabled Transgender Model to Sign With Elite" (https://www.teenvogue.com/story/aaron-philip-elite-model-management) . Teen Vogue . 4 September 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Meet the Disabled Trans Model Who's Here to DOMINATE the Fashion World" (https://www.them.us/story/aaron-philip-fashion-and-disability) . them . 22 May 2018. ^ Jump up to: a b "Model Aaron Philip Signs with Elite Model Management" (http://www.papermag.com/model-aaron-philip-signs-with-elite-model-management-2601064651.html) . PAPER . 1 September 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-glamour-5sep201922_10-0) Colón, Ana; Marinelli, Gina (September 5, 2019). "Model Aaron Philip Manifested Her Dream—With a Tweet" (https://www.glamour.com/story/model-aaron-philip-interview) . Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) . Retrieved April 16, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Burke, Sinéad (20 April 2023). "Model Aaron Rose Philip Is On A Mission To Level Fashion's Playing Field" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/aaron-rose-philip-british-vogue-interview) . British Vogue . Retrieved 2023-05-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) " (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/vogue-disability-portfolio-2023) "Nothing Is More Fashionable Than Inclusivity": Sinéad Burke Introduces British Vogue's May 2023 Cover Stars" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/vogue-disability-portfolio-2023) . British Vogue . 2023-04-20 . Retrieved 2023-05-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "A New Vanguard Of Disabled Talent Covers British Vogue's May 2023 Issue" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/british-vogue-may-2023-editors-letter) . British Vogue . 20 April 2023 . Retrieved 2023-05-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "NYFW Wasn't Ready For Aaron Philip — But She's Just Getting Started" (https://www.teenvogue.com/story/aaron-philip-21-under-21-2018) . Teen Vogue . 5 November 2018 . Retrieved 2019-02-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-out-22nov2019_15-0) Street, Mikelle (November 22, 2019). "Aaron Philip and Teddy Quinlivan are Out100's Models of the Year" (https://www.out.com/print/2019/11/22/aaron-philip-and-teddy-quinlivan-are-out100s-models-year) . Out (/wiki/Out_(magazine)) . Retrieved April 16, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-:43_16-0) "Aaron Philip is the trans, disabled model making history" (https://www.dazeddigital.com/projects/article/44143/1/aaron-philip-model-biography-dazed-100-2019-profile) . Dazed . 2019-05-13. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190501122146/https://www.dazeddigital.com/projects/article/44143/1/aaron-philip-model-biography-dazed-100-2019-profile) from the original on 2019-05-01 . Retrieved 2020-10-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "This is Black History: Aaron Philip" (https://www.beyonce.com/article/this-is-black-history-aaron-philip/) . Beyoncé . Retrieved 2020-10-22 . External links [ edit ] Aaron Rose Philip (https://www.instagram.com/aaron___philip/) on Instagram (/wiki/Instagram_(identifier)) Aaron Philip (https://twitter.com/aaronphilipxo) on Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐bdcc7b545‐tb8gk Cached time: 20240715184936 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.439 seconds Real time usage: 0.601 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2840/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 46684/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2828/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 67834/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.313/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 9241171/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 552.616 1 -total 37.93% 209.625 1 Template:Infobox_model 31.96% 176.596 1 Template:Reflist 24.62% 136.029 13 Template:Cite_web 13.15% 72.677 1 Template:Short_description 12.00% 66.326 1 Template:BLP_sources 11.00% 60.786 1 Template:Ambox 7.63% 42.182 1 Template:Infobox 7.17% 39.624 2 Template:Pagetype 6.49% 35.878 1 Template:Birth_date_and_age Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:58442690-0!canonical and timestamp 20240715184936 and revision id 1234706733. 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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Trousers (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Trousers) . The main articles for this category (/wiki/Help:Categories) are Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) and Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) . All types of garments for the lower body which divide into two parts, one for each leg. Compare with the categories for Skirts (/wiki/Category:Skirts) and Dresses (/wiki/Category:Dresses) , which do not divide. For one-piece garments which include trousers or shorts for the lower part (like an overall), see One-piece suits (/wiki/Category:One-piece_suits) . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 2 subcategories, out of 2 total. B Breeches (/wiki/Category:Breeches) ‎ (7 P) J Jeans (/wiki/Category:Jeans) ‎ (2 C, 13 P) Pages in category "Trousers and shorts" The following 86 pages are in this category, out of 86 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) B Baji (clothing) (/wiki/Baji_(clothing)) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bermuda shorts (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) Blood stripe (/wiki/Blood_stripe) Boardshorts (/wiki/Boardshorts) Bondage pants (/wiki/Bondage_pants) Boyshorts (/wiki/Boyshorts) Braccae (/wiki/Braccae) Breeches (/wiki/Breeches) Breeching (boys) (/wiki/Breeching_(boys)) Breeks (/wiki/Breeks) C Capri pants (/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Carpenter jeans (/wiki/Carpenter_jeans) Chap boot (/wiki/Chap_boot) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Chino cloth (/wiki/Chino_cloth) Churidar (/wiki/Churidar) Codpiece (/wiki/Codpiece) Compression garment (/wiki/Compression_garment) Culottes (/wiki/Culottes) Cycling shorts (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) Czechczery (/wiki/Czechczery) D Daisy Dukes (/wiki/Daisy_Dukes) Disco pants (/wiki/Disco_pants) Dolphin shorts (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) E Exploding trousers (/wiki/Exploding_trousers) F Fisherman pants (/wiki/Fisherman_pants) Formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) G Gaiters (/wiki/Gaiters) Galliffet trousers (/wiki/Galliffet_trousers) Go-to-hell pants (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) Grant v Australian Knitting Mills (/wiki/Grant_v_Australian_Knitting_Mills) H Hammer pants (/wiki/Hammer_pants) Harem pants (/wiki/Harem_pants) High-rise (fashion) (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Hip-huggers (/wiki/Hip-huggers) Hockey pants (/wiki/Hockey_pants) Hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) J Jams (clothing line) (/wiki/Jams_(clothing_line)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jinbei (/wiki/Jinbei) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) K Knickerbockers (clothing) (/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)) L Leather shorts (/wiki/Leather_shorts) Lederhosen (/wiki/Lederhosen) Low-crotch pants (/wiki/Low-crotch_pants) N Nábrók (/wiki/N%C3%A1br%C3%B3k) Nantucket Reds (/wiki/Nantucket_Reds) O Open-crotch pants (/wiki/Open-crotch_pants) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Oxford bags (/wiki/Oxford_bags) P Palazzo pants (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Pantalon rouge (/wiki/Pantalon_rouge) Parachute pants (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Pencil suit (/wiki/Pencil_suit) Pesky Pants (/wiki/Pesky_Pants) Pettipants (/wiki/Pettipants) Phat pants (/wiki/Phat_pants) Plus fours (/wiki/Plus_fours) R Rain pants (/wiki/Rain_pants) Rugby shorts (/wiki/Rugby_shorts) Running shorts (/wiki/Running_shorts) S Sagging (fashion) (/wiki/Sagging_(fashion)) Sampot (/wiki/Sampot) Sansabelt (/wiki/Sansabelt) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Sharovary (/wiki/Sharovary) Sirwal (/wiki/Sirwal) Skort (/wiki/Skort) Slim-fit pants (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sompot Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Sta-Prest (/wiki/Sta-Prest) Stirrup pants (/wiki/Stirrup_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) T Tactical pants (/wiki/Tactical_pants) Tap pants (/wiki/Tap_pants) Tobi trousers (/wiki/Tobi_trousers) Trousers as women's clothing (/wiki/Trousers_as_women%27s_clothing) Swim trunks (/wiki/Swim_trunks) Turkish trousers (/wiki/Turkish_trousers) W Walk shorts (/wiki/Walk_shorts) Z Zubaz (/wiki/Zubaz) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Trousers_and_shorts&oldid=1142635892 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Trousers_and_shorts&oldid=1142635892) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Clothing by type (/wiki/Category:Clothing_by_type) Suits (clothing) (/wiki/Category:Suits_(clothing)) Hidden category: Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata)
American model and actress Leone Sousa Leone Sousa in 1940 Born 1909 ( 1909 ) Lake Elsinore, California (/wiki/Lake_Elsinore,_California) , US Died January 9, 2001 (aged 91) Occupation(s) Model and actress Spouses George Houston (/wiki/George_Houston_(actor)) ( m. 1933 ; div. 1940 ) Walter Avellar (died 1964) Leone Sousa (1909 – January 9, 2001 [1] (#cite_note-oitpa-1) ) was an American model and actress. Life and career [ edit ] Sousa was born in 1909 in Lake Elsinore, California (/wiki/Lake_Elsinore,_California) [1] (#cite_note-oitpa-1) to Mr. and Mrs. Arthur R. Sousa. [2] (#cite_note-2) She attended elementary and high school at San Bernardino, California (/wiki/San_Bernardino,_California) . [3] (#cite_note-tsbcs-3) When she attended high school, her teachers failed her because they said she wasn't proficient in her sewing work, which came as quite a blow to her because she was making her own tailored suits at the time. [4] (#cite_note-drc-4) Sousa had an interest in amateur dramatics from a young age, [3] (#cite_note-tsbcs-3) and when she was 17 years old she left high school [4] (#cite_note-drc-4) and went to Hollywood, California (/wiki/Hollywood,_California) . She started singing in clubs in Hollywood and elsewhere in Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) , and obtained extra parts in movies. Encouraged by her success, she went to New York (/wiki/New_York_City) , where she obtained work as a model while continuing her career as an entertainer. [3] (#cite_note-tsbcs-3) Sousa quickly became popular, appearing on the cover of several fashion magazines and in commercials. In 1931, Sousa was chosen by a committee of stylists as "Miss Fifth Avenue" [5] (#cite_note-di-5) out of the leading models from shops along Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) . [4] (#cite_note-drc-4) Later in 1931, she was chosen from a group of 60 models by French designer Gabrielle Chanel (/wiki/Gabrielle_Chanel) as one of 12 American girls to model her gowns in Paris salons. [6] (#cite_note-6) This event brought Sousa international publicity and led directly into her Ziegfeld Follies (/wiki/Ziegfeld_Follies) contract. In 1934, after returning to the United States, Sousa became a Ziegfeld Follies girl (/wiki/Ziegfeld_girl) , [3] (#cite_note-tsbcs-3) and later in 1934, she was chosen by a group of New York artists as the most beautiful Ziegfeld girl. [7] (#cite_note-7) Later in 1934, Sousa went to Hollywood, California (/wiki/Hollywood,_California) again in hopes of becoming a movie star, but only ever got small roles and never had major success. As such, she soon returned to theatre. Sousa continued successfully with her career in the second half of the 1930s, but in the 1940s things didn't go as well for her. After, among other things, having performed for American troops in Europe during World War II, she left the entertainment industry. [5] (#cite_note-di-5) Sousa had three husbands over the course of her life. Her first husband was actor George Houston (/wiki/George_Houston_(actor)) , who she married on September 8, 1933. Houston and Sousa performed together in multiple plays including the 1936 play Everyman (/wiki/Everyman_(15th-century_play)) . [8] (#cite_note-lat-8) On February 21, 1940, Sousa divorced Houston, after they parted on November 1, 1939. On the day of the divorce, Sousa said in court that "He paid practically no attention to me. He'd go out socially without me and he wouldn't return until some time between 2 and 5 o'clock in the morning. [...] He was always having bills for champagne sent to our home. But I never saw the champagne." Sousa was awarded the divorce decree and Houston was made to pay her $200 a month in alimony (/wiki/Alimony) until one of them died or Sousa remarried. [9] (#cite_note-9) In 1944, after their divorce, Sousa and Houston performed together in The Pilgrimage Play . [10] (#cite_note-spnp-10) Sousa's second husband was a naval officer. Her third husband was Walter Avellar. In Avellar's later years, him and Sousa raised poodles and worked in real estate together, [8] (#cite_note-lat-8) and they toured the country presenting their dogs at shows and participating in competitions until Avellar died in 1964. In Sousa's later years, she was asked if she was interested in making a comeback. At first, she was flattered, but declined when she found out that she was going to perform in a Las Vegas (/wiki/Las_Vegas) musical with and about other former showgirls, thinking it would be unsuccessful. However, the musical was still running when Sousa died [5] (#cite_note-di-5) on January 9, 2001. [1] (#cite_note-oitpa-1) Stage work [ edit ] Theatre performances Year Title Role Ref. 1932 A Little Racketeer Show Girl [11] (#cite_note-ibdb-11) 1932 Cyrano De Bergerac — [12] (#cite_note-12) 1934 Ziegfeld Follies of 1934 "That's Where We Come In" Singer, Model's Guild Girl [11] (#cite_note-ibdb-11) 1936 Everyman Paramour [13] (#cite_note-13) 1938 Who's Who — [11] (#cite_note-ibdb-11) 1938 Miner's Gold Rory [14] (#cite_note-14) 1944 The Pilgrimage Play Mary Magdalene [10] (#cite_note-spnp-10) References [ edit ] ^ a b c Lentz, Harris M. (2002). Obituaries in the Performing Arts, 2001: Film, Television, Radio, Theatre, Dance, Music, Cartoons, and Pop Culture . Jefferson, N.C.: McFarland. p. 275. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7864-1278-X . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1087-9617 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1087-9617) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Miss Leone Sousa With Follies in L. A." (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55126779/miss-leone-sousa-with-follies-in-l-a/) The San Bernardino County Sun (/wiki/The_San_Bernardino_County_Sun) . January 25, 1935. p. 17. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200717143908/https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55126779/miss-leone-sousa-with-follies-in-l-a/) from the original on July 17, 2020 . Retrieved July 11, 2020 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . ^ a b c d "Former City Girl Wins Role in Ziegfeld Follies" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55138754/former-city-girl-wins-role-in-ziegfeld/) . The San Bernardino County Sun (/wiki/The_San_Bernardino_County_Sun) . March 25, 1934. p. 13. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200717143908/https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55126779/miss-leone-sousa-with-follies-in-l-a/) from the original on July 17, 2020 . Retrieved July 11, 2020 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . ^ a b c "Queen of Models Rules Style Realm; She's New York's "Miss Fifth Avenue" (https://newspaperarchive.com/celebrity-clipping-oct-21-1932-1854053/) " (https://newspaperarchive.com/celebrity-clipping-oct-21-1932-1854053/) . Denton Record-Chronicle (/wiki/Denton_Record-Chronicle) . Associated Press (/wiki/Associated_Press) . October 21, 1932. p. 3. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200717151843/https://newspaperarchive.com/celebrity-clipping-oct-21-1932-1854053/) from the original on July 17, 2020 . Retrieved July 11, 2020 – via NewspaperArchive (/wiki/NewspaperArchive) . ^ a b c "Nekrologer" (https://www.information.dk/2001/03/nekrologer-3) [Obituaries]. Dagbladet Information (/wiki/Dagbladet_Information) (in Danish). March 2, 2001 . Retrieved July 16, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Chanel Picks Models for Paris Jobs" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55434190/chanel-picks-models-for-paris-jobs/) . The Shamokin Dispatch (/w/index.php?title=The_Shamokin_Dispatch&action=edit&redlink=1) . April 17, 1931. p. 9 . Retrieved July 16, 2020 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Harrison, Paul (April 5, 1934). "Trails on Broadway" (https://newspaperarchive.com/celebrity-clipping-apr-05-1934-1863164/) . The San Bernardino County Sun (/wiki/The_San_Bernardino_County_Sun) . p. 8 – via NewspaperArchive (/wiki/NewspaperArchive) . ^ a b "Leone Sousa; Model and Ziegfeld Follies Girl" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2001-jan-19-me-14271-story.html) . Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) . January 19, 2001. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200709054523/https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2001-jan-19-me-14271-story.html) from the original on July 9, 2020 . Retrieved July 16, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Husband Right---I Was Wrong, Says Actress Granted Divorce" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55008053/husband-right-i-was-wrong-says/) . Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) . February 22, 1940. p. 21. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200709103517/https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55008053/husband-right-i-was-wrong-says/) from the original on July 9, 2020 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . ^ a b "San Pedro Night Tomorrow at Pilgrimage Play" (https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SPNP19440802.2.109&srpos=2&dliv=none) . San Pedro News Pilot . August 2, 1944. p. 6. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200716211416/https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SPNP19440802.2.109&srpos=2&dliv=none) from the original on July 16, 2020 . Retrieved July 16, 2020 – via California Digital Newspaper Collection (/wiki/California_Digital_Newspaper_Collection) . ^ a b c "Leone Sousa – Broadway Cast & Staff" (https://www.ibdb.com/broadway-cast-staff/leone-sousa-60603) . Internet Broadway Database (/wiki/Internet_Broadway_Database) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200717095142/https://www.ibdb.com/broadway-cast-staff/leone-sousa-60603) from the original on July 17, 2020 . Retrieved July 16, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Dietz, Dan (March 29, 2018). The Complete Book of 1930s Broadway Musicals . Rowman & Littlefield. p. 265-266. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781538102770 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) " (https://newspaperarchive.com/celebrity-clipping-sep-18-1936-1863706/) "PARAMOUR" AND "EVERYMAN" (https://newspaperarchive.com/celebrity-clipping-sep-18-1936-1863706/) " (https://newspaperarchive.com/celebrity-clipping-sep-18-1936-1863706/) . Bakersfield Californian (/wiki/Bakersfield_Californian) . September 18, 1936. p. 21. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200716170624/https://newspaperarchive.com/celebrity-clipping-sep-18-1936-1863706/) from the original on July 16, 2020 . Retrieved July 16, 2020 – via NewspaperArchive (/wiki/NewspaperArchive) . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Leone Sousa Has Lead in Pasadena Play" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55460406/leone-sousa-has-lead-in-pasadena-play/) . The San Bernardino County Sun (/wiki/The_San_Bernardino_County_Sun) . August 5, 1937. p. 19. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200716182508/https://www.newspapers.com/clip/55460406/leone-sousa-has-lead-in-pasadena-play/) from the original on July 16, 2020 . Retrieved July 16, 2020 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Leone_Sousa&oldid=1170853600 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Leone_Sousa&oldid=1170853600) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Ziegfeld girls (/wiki/Category:Ziegfeld_girls) American female models (/wiki/Category:American_female_models) American stage actresses (/wiki/Category:American_stage_actresses) American film actresses (/wiki/Category:American_film_actresses) Actresses from California (/wiki/Category:Actresses_from_California) Female models from California (/wiki/Category:Female_models_from_California) People from Lake Elsinore, California (/wiki/Category:People_from_Lake_Elsinore,_California) 1909 births (/wiki/Category:1909_births) 2001 deaths (/wiki/Category:2001_deaths) 20th-century American actresses (/wiki/Category:20th-century_American_actresses) Hidden categories: CS1 Danish-language sources (da) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Danish-language_sources_(da)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Articles with hCards (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hCards)
Cosmetic product It has been suggested that this article be merged (/wiki/Wikipedia:Merging) into Lipstick (/wiki/Lipstick) . ( Discuss (/wiki/Talk:Lipstick#Proposal_to_merge_lip_stain_into_the_lipstick_article) ) Proposed since February 2024. Lip stain or lip tint , is a cosmetic (/wiki/Cosmetics) product used to color the lips, usually in form of a liquid or gel. [1] (#cite_note-1) It generally stays on longer than lipstick (/wiki/Lipstick) by leaving a stain (/wiki/Stain) of color on the lips. [2] (#cite_note-2) However, it can dry the lips and is not recommended for winter. [3] (#cite_note-3) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Carmindy (2008). Get Positively Beautiful . Center Street. p. 107. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1599951935 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Deanna Nickel (2012). How to Start a Home-based Makeup Artist Business . Rowman & Littlefield. p. 41. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0762786299 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Riku Campo (2010). Best in Beauty . Simon and Schuster. p. 121. 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The frame of the coronet in the treasury of the Hofburg The archducal coronet in its original state The archducal hat of Joseph II is an imperial insignia of Joseph II, Holy Roman Emperor (/wiki/Joseph_II,_Holy_Roman_Emperor) . History [ edit ] The Habsburg dynasty used the archducal hat (/wiki/Archducal_hat) on several occasions, such as the homage paid by the estates. Since the 16th century, it was worn as a sign of their rank as archdukes of Austria (/wiki/Archdukes_of_Austria) in the procession prior to the Imperial coronation (/wiki/Coronation_of_the_Holy_Roman_Emperor) at Frankfurt am Main (/wiki/Frankfurt_am_Main) . Since the custodians of the archducal hat at Klosterneuburg Monastery (/wiki/Klosterneuburg_Monastery) refused to allow the archducal hat to be used by Joseph II for the procession preceding his coronation at Frankfurt am Main in 1764, a new archducal coronet had to be created. This new coronet did not follow the pattern of the hat in Klosterneuburg. It consisted of a golden eastern coronet (/wiki/Eastern_crown) with pearls and precious stones. A flat velvet cap encircled by ermine (/wiki/Ermine_(heraldry)) was included. Having only one arch (/wiki/Arch) , it resembled the original archducal coronet introduced by Rudolph IV of Austria (/wiki/Rudolph_IV_of_Austria) . At the center of the arch, it is surmounted by a globe (/wiki/Globe) and cross (/wiki/Cross) . After the coronation, the coronet became obsolete. The jewels and pearls were removed and were used for other purposes. Its frame, however, survived and can be seen in the Imperial Treasury, Vienna (/wiki/Imperial_Treasury,_Vienna) . Its original state can be seen in a contemporary painting of Joseph II. [1] (#cite_note-1) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Lord Twining, Edward Francis: European Regalia, B.T. Batsford Ltd. London, 1967. p 141. v t e Crowns (/wiki/Crown) Albania Helmet of Skanderbeg (/wiki/Arms_of_Skanderbeg#The_helmet) (Vienna) Austria Archducal hat of Austria (/wiki/Archducal_hat) (Klosterneuburg) Imperial Crown of Austria (/wiki/Imperial_Crown_of_Austria) (Vienna) Brilliant Crown of Empress Elisabeth (/w/index.php?title=Brilliant_Crown_of_Empress_Elisabeth&action=edit&redlink=1) ( de (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brillantkrone_der_Kaiserin_Elisabeth_von_%C3%96sterreich) ) (missing) Archducal hat of Tyrol (/wiki/Archducal_hat_of_Tyrol) (Mariastein) Ducal hat of Styria (/wiki/Ducal_hat_of_Styria) (Graz) Archducal hat of Joseph II (Vienna) Bohemia (/wiki/Bohemia) Crown of Saint Wenceslas (/wiki/Crown_of_Saint_Wenceslas) (Prague) Crown of the Środa Treasure (/wiki/%C5%9Aroda_Treasure) (Środa Śląska) Brazil Crown of Pedro I (/wiki/Crown_of_Pedro_I) (Petrópolis) Imperial Crown of Brazil (/wiki/Imperial_Crown_of_Brazil) (Petrópolis) Coronet of the Imperial Prince of Brazil (/w/index.php?title=Coronet_of_the_Imperial_Prince_of_Brazil&action=edit&redlink=1) Coronet of Laurels of Princess Isabel (/w/index.php?title=Coronet_of_Laurels_of_Princess_Isabel&action=edit&redlink=1) British Isles (/wiki/British_Isles) Crown of Princess Blanche (/wiki/Crown_of_Princess_Blanche) (Munich) Crown of Margaret of York (/wiki/Margaret_of_York#Crown_of_Margaret_of_York) (Aachen) Crown of Scotland (/wiki/Crown_of_Scotland) (Edinburgh) St Edward's Crown (/wiki/St_Edward%27s_Crown) (London) State Crown of Mary of Modena (/wiki/State_Crown_of_Mary_of_Modena) (London) Tudor Crown (/wiki/Tudor_Crown) (destroyed) State Crown of George I (/wiki/State_Crown_of_George_I) (London) Coronet of Frederick, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Coronet_of_Frederick,_Prince_of_Wales) (London) Coronation Crown of George IV (/wiki/Coronation_Crown_of_George_IV) (London) Diamond Diadem (/wiki/Diamond_Diadem) Crown of Queen Adelaide (/wiki/Crown_of_Queen_Adelaide) (London) Imperial State Crown 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Crown of Wilhelm I (/w/index.php?title=Crown_of_Wilhelm_I&action=edit&redlink=1) (missing) Crown of Queen Augusta (/w/index.php?title=Crown_of_Queen_Augusta&action=edit&redlink=1) (missing) Crown of Wilhelm II (/wiki/Crown_of_Wilhelm_II) (Hohenzollern Castle) Saxony (/wiki/Electorate_of_Saxony) : Electoral Hat of Saxony (/w/index.php?title=Electoral_Hat_of_Saxony&action=edit&redlink=1) (Dresden) Crown of Augustus II the Strong (/wiki/Crown_of_Augustus_II_the_Strong) (Dresden) Funeral Crown of Augustus II the Strong (/w/index.php?title=Funeral_Crown_of_Augustus_II_the_Strong&action=edit&redlink=1) (Dresden) Württemberg (/wiki/Kingdom_of_W%C3%BCrttemberg) : Royal Crown of Württemberg (/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_W%C3%BCrttemberg) (Stuttgart) Greece Crown of Greece (/wiki/Greek_crown_jewels) (Athens) Haiti (/wiki/Second_Empire_of_Haiti) Crown of Faustin I (/wiki/Crown_of_Faustin_I) Hawaii (/wiki/Hawaiian_Kingdom) Crown of King Kalākaua (/wiki/Crown_of_Hawaii) (Honolulu) Crown of Queen 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This is the talk page (/wiki/Wikipedia:Talk_page_guidelines) for discussing improvements to the Cosmetics (/wiki/Template:Cosmetics) template. Put new text under old text. Click here to start a new topic. (/wiki/Special:NewSection/Template_talk:Cosmetics) New to Wikipedia? Welcome! Learn to edit (/wiki/Help:Introduction) ; get help (/wiki/Wikipedia:Questions) . Assume good faith (/wiki/Wikipedia:Assume_good_faith) Be polite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Civility) and avoid personal attacks (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_personal_attacks) Be welcoming to newcomers (/wiki/Wikipedia:Please_do_not_bite_the_newcomers) Seek dispute resolution (/wiki/Wikipedia:Dispute_resolution_requests) if needed This template does not require a rating on Wikipedia's content assessment (/wiki/Wikipedia:Content_assessment) scale. It is of interest to the following WikiProjects (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject) : Fashion (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Fashion) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) This template is within the scope of WikiProject Fashion (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Fashion) , a collaborative effort to improve the coverage of Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) on Wikipedia. If you would like to participate, please visit the project page, where you can join the discussion (/wiki/Wikipedia_talk:WikiProject_Fashion) and see a list of open tasks. Fashion Wikipedia:WikiProject Fashion Template:WikiProject Fashion fashion articles color [ edit ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-color","replies":[]}} i think the color is a bit too strong, don't you? it should probably go with a lighter pink. 07:35, 30 July 2007 (UTC) Rose Red [ edit ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Rose_Red","replies":[]}} Rose Red is not a cosmetic company. It is the name of the character in Snow White & the Seven Dwarves. __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONDESKTOP__{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Make-up_artist-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z","replies":["c-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z-Make-up_artist"],"text":"Make-up artist","linkableTitle":"Make-up artist"} Make-up artist [ edit ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Make-up_artist-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z","replies":["c-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z-Make-up_artist"]}} __DTLATESTCOMMENTTHREAD__{"id":"c-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z-Make-up_artist","timestamp":"2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z"}__ __DTCOMMENTCOUNT__1__ __DTAUTHORCOUNT__1__ __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONMOBILE__{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Make-up_artist-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z","replies":["c-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z-Make-up_artist"],"text":"Make-up artist","linkableTitle":"Make-up artist"} Should Make-up artist (/wiki/Make-up_artist) have a link in related topics? -- Christopherlin (/wiki/User:Christopherlin) ( talk (/wiki/User_talk:Christopherlin) ) 04:57, 19 April 2008 (UTC) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Cosmetics#c-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z-Make-up_artist) [ reply ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"timestamp":"2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z","author":"Christopherlin","type":"comment","level":1,"id":"c-Christopherlin-2008-04-19T04:57:00.000Z-Make-up_artist","replies":[]}} __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONDESKTOP__{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Picture_getting_too_big-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z","replies":["c-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z-Picture_getting_too_big"],"text":"Picture getting too big","linkableTitle":"Picture getting too big"} Picture getting too big [ edit ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Picture_getting_too_big-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z","replies":["c-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z-Picture_getting_too_big"]}} __DTLATESTCOMMENTTHREAD__{"id":"c-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z-Picture_getting_too_big","timestamp":"2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z"}__ __DTCOMMENTCOUNT__1__ __DTAUTHORCOUNT__1__ __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONMOBILE__{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Picture_getting_too_big-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z","replies":["c-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z-Picture_getting_too_big"],"text":"Picture getting too big","linkableTitle":"Picture getting too big"} OK, so it is. We need to convert this to one of those navboxes with the picture in the corner. Daniel Case (/wiki/User:Daniel_Case) ( talk (/wiki/User_talk:Daniel_Case) ) 16:47, 7 June 2008 (UTC) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Cosmetics#c-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z-Picture_getting_too_big) [ reply ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"timestamp":"2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z","author":"Daniel Case","type":"comment","level":1,"id":"c-Daniel_Case-2008-06-07T16:47:00.000Z-Picture_getting_too_big","replies":[]}} __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONDESKTOP__{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Title-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z","replies":["c-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z-Title"],"text":"Title","linkableTitle":"Title"} Title [ edit ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Title-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z","replies":["c-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z-Title"]}} __DTLATESTCOMMENTTHREAD__{"id":"c-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z-Title","timestamp":"2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z"}__ __DTCOMMENTCOUNT__1__ __DTAUTHORCOUNT__1__ __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONMOBILE__{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Title-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z","replies":["c-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z-Title"],"text":"Title","linkableTitle":"Title"} I changed it from Contemporary Western cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) and plastic surgery (/wiki/Plastic_surgery) to simply Cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) . Contemporary is hard to define and there's nothing exclusively Western about the items in the navbox. These products are used internationally. I don't see anything about plastic surgery in the navbox. Anna Frodesiak (/wiki/User:Anna_Frodesiak) ( talk (/wiki/User_talk:Anna_Frodesiak) ) 00:03, 6 June 2014 (UTC) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Cosmetics#c-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z-Title) [ reply ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"timestamp":"2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z","author":"Anna Frodesiak","type":"comment","level":1,"id":"c-Anna_Frodesiak-2014-06-06T00:03:00.000Z-Title","replies":[]}} __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONDESKTOP__{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Skin_dyeing-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z","replies":["c-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z-Skin_dyeing"],"text":"Skin dyeing","linkableTitle":"Skin dyeing"} Skin dyeing [ edit ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Skin_dyeing-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z","replies":["c-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z-Skin_dyeing"]}} __DTLATESTCOMMENTTHREAD__{"id":"c-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z-Skin_dyeing","timestamp":"2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z"}__ __DTCOMMENTCOUNT__1__ __DTAUTHORCOUNT__1__ __DTSUBSCRIBEBUTTONMOBILE__{"headingLevel":2,"name":"h-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z","type":"heading","level":0,"id":"h-Skin_dyeing-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z","replies":["c-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z-Skin_dyeing"],"text":"Skin dyeing","linkableTitle":"Skin dyeing"} Currently we seem to have nothing on skin modification (/w/index.php?title=Skin_modification&action=edit&redlink=1) and/or dyeing (/w/index.php?title=Skin_dyeing&action=edit&redlink=1) besides skin whitening (/wiki/Skin_whitening) , sunless tanning (/wiki/Sunless_tanning) , and blackface (/wiki/Blackface) . There seems to be a slow-moving fight about whether the blackface article is about any use of cosmetics to darken skin (in which case it really should go here) or just about the US racist stagecraft tradition (in which case it really shouldn't). A better solution would be to eventually have something for all variations of skin modification: whitening, darkening, yellowing (as when missionaries tried to avoid trouble with xenophobes in China (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica,_Ninth_Edition/%C3%89variste_R%C3%A9gis_Huc) ), as well as the more bizarre tints like the Britons going blue. (Today, in the west we'd associate skin dyed red with demons and skin dyed green with reptiles but there have doubtless been other uses and meanings of the same practice.) In any case, the topic deserves a broader landing page and treatment than articles almost exclusively dealing with socio-political history of racist caricature and psychology and marketing of racism-induced self-loathing. — Llywelyn II 05:56, 29 July 2019 (UTC) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Cosmetics#c-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z-Skin_dyeing) [ reply ] __DTELLIPSISBUTTON__{"threadItem":{"timestamp":"2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z","author":"LlywelynII","type":"comment","level":1,"id":"c-LlywelynII-2019-07-29T05:56:00.000Z-Skin_dyeing","replies":[]}} NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐57d74c944b‐gpstl Cached time: 20240721023705 Cache expiry: 864000 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] DiscussionTools time usage: 0.015 seconds CPU time usage: 0.199 seconds Real time usage: 0.272 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 982/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 11324/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2218/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 32/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 10089/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.102/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 1625838/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 217.271 1 -total 54.71% 118.874 1 Template:Talk_header 45.25% 98.317 1 Template:WikiProject_banner_shell 28.63% 62.197 1 Template:WikiProject_Fashion 18.43% 40.042 2 Template:Pagetype 18.36% 39.894 1 Template:Yearly_archive_list 15.85% 34.443 1 Template:For_loop 10.05% 21.841 23 Template:Ifexist_not_redirect 0.80% 1.748 1 Template:Strong 0.77% 1.681 1 Template:LASTYEAR Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:11105635-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721023705 and revision id 1229395143. 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Italy portal (/wiki/Portal:Italy) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐5fc7b8464c‐zlvlm Cached time: 20240709105059 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.033 seconds Real time usage: 0.046 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 13/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 696/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 3/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 1041/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.017/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 630249/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 36.987 1 Template:Portal 100.00% 36.987 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:52993364-0!canonical and timestamp 20240709105059 and revision id 1220122144. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse Pages in category "Italian suit makers" The following 36 pages are in this category, out of 36 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . A Armani (/wiki/Armani) B Belvest (/wiki/Belvest) Blufin (/wiki/Blufin) Boglioli (/wiki/Boglioli) Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) Brioni (brand) (/wiki/Brioni_(brand)) Brunello Cucinelli (brand) (/wiki/Brunello_Cucinelli_(brand)) C Canali (/wiki/Canali) Caraceni (company) (/wiki/Caraceni_(company)) Cesare Attolini (/wiki/Cesare_Attolini) Cifonelli (/wiki/Cifonelli) Corneliani (/wiki/Corneliani) E Etro (/wiki/Etro) F Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) Fratelli Piacenza (/wiki/Fratelli_Piacenza) G Gattinoni (/wiki/Gattinoni) Genny (/wiki/Genny) I Iceberg (fashion house) (/wiki/Iceberg_(fashion_house)) Isaia (/wiki/Isaia) K Kiton (/wiki/Kiton) Krizia (/wiki/Krizia) L Lardini (/wiki/Lardini) Larusmiani (/wiki/Larusmiani) Luciano Barbera (/wiki/Luciano_Barbera) Luigi Borrelli (/wiki/Luigi_Borrelli) M Marina Rinaldi (/wiki/Marina_Rinaldi) P Pal Zileri (/wiki/Pal_Zileri) Pinko (fashion) (/wiki/Pinko_(fashion)) R Rubinacci (/wiki/Rubinacci) S Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A. (/wiki/Salvatore_Ferragamo_S.p.A.) Sorelle Fontana (/wiki/Sorelle_Fontana) Stefano Ricci (/wiki/Stefano_Ricci) T Trussardi (/wiki/Trussardi) V Valentino (fashion house) (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_house)) Versace (/wiki/Versace) Z Zegna (/wiki/Zegna) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Italian_suit_makers&oldid=1220122144 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Italian_suit_makers&oldid=1220122144) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Suit makers (/wiki/Category:Suit_makers) Clothing brands of Italy (/wiki/Category:Clothing_brands_of_Italy) Textile industry of Italy (/wiki/Category:Textile_industry_of_Italy) Italian tailors (/wiki/Category:Italian_tailors)
Simple hairstyle popular among males Actor Don Grady (/wiki/Don_Grady) sporting a regular haircut. A regular haircut , in Western fashion, is a men's and boys' hairstyle (/wiki/Hairstyle) that has hair long enough to comb on top, a defined or deconstructed side part, and a short, semi-short, medium, long, or extra long back and sides. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 129–131 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 98–101 The style is also known by other names including taper cut , regular taper cut , side-part and standard haircut ; as well as short back and sides , business-man cut and professional cut , subject to varying national, regional, and local interpretations of the specific taper for the back and sides. [3] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEScali-Snipes1999-3) : 188 [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 122 [4] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEStewartFord2003188-4) [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 97 [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) History [ edit ] American general John Ellis Wool (/wiki/John_Ellis_Wool) with regular haircut, 1825 The short back and sides dates back to the Roman empire (/wiki/Roman_empire) , as the regulation haircut for legionaries (/wiki/Legionaries) . Besides preventing the spread of lice, short hair and a clean shaven face prevented the enemy from grabbing a soldier by the beard. By the first century AD, Roman hairstyles (/wiki/Roman_hairstyles) were imitated by non-Roman subjects who admired the civilization that Rome brought. Examples include the Gallo-Romans (/wiki/Gallo-Roman) and Romanized Jews like Saint Paul (/wiki/Saint_Paul) seeking to distinguish themselves from traditionalists for whom hair cutting was forbidden. The regular haircut, worn with a long beard, made a comeback during the Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance) due to European men's newfound fascination with rediscovered classical Greco-Roman artefacts. It was revived for a second time during the Regency era (/wiki/Regency_era) of c.1810-1830 as dandies (/wiki/Dandy) abandoned the impractical and expensive powdered wigs (/wiki/Powdered_wig) in response to William Pitt the Younger (/wiki/William_Pitt_the_Younger) 's hair powder tax (/wiki/Hair_powder_tax) . During the Gay Nineties (/wiki/Gay_Nineties) , the regular haircut gradually replaced the longer hair and muttonchop sideburns (/wiki/Muttonchop_sideburns) fashionable since the 1840s until, by 1910, it had become the norm for professional men. An extreme version known as the undercut (/wiki/Undercut_(haircut)) was regulation for British and German soldiers during World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) and World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) . [8] (#cite_note-8) During the post-World War II period, the business-man haircut, in the form of a combover, became the standard dress code for men's hair in white-collar workplace settings throughout the Western world until the late 1960s and early 1970s. In 2010s fashion (/wiki/2010s_fashion) , the short back and sides continued to be worn by many professional men, while the related undercut (/wiki/Undercut_(haircut)) [9] (#cite_note-9) was appropriated by the hipster subculture (/wiki/Hipster_subculture) . [10] (#cite_note-10) Elements [ edit ] The essential elements of a regular haircut are edging (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/edging) , siding (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/siding) and topping (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/topping) : [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 61–62 Edging refers to the design of the lower edge of hair growth from the sideburns (/wiki/Sideburn) around the ears and across the nape of the neck (/wiki/Nape_of_the_neck) . [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 62–63 Siding refers to the design of the hair on the back and sides between the edge and the top. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 68 Edging and siding, together or separately, commonly referred to as tapering, create a taper (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/taper) (see crew cut (/wiki/Crew_cut) ). [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 68 Topping refers to the design of the hair at the front and over the crown (/wiki/Crown_(anatomy)) . [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 70 Edging comes first, followed by siding and topping. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 61 Edging is typically done with clippers; siding, shears over comb; topping, shears over finger. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 62–63 [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118–120 There are other methods that can be used including all clipper cuts, all shears cuts and all razor cuts. Barbers distinguish between a two line haircut and a one line haircut. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 133–134 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 97 Two line haircuts are standard taper cuts. The hair is outlined around the ears and then straight down the sides of the neck. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 113–115 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 97 The edge of hair growth at the nape of the neck is tapered to the skin with a fine(zero) clipper blade. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 103 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 110–111 A one line haircut, often referred to as a block cut, has the edge of hair growth at the nape outline shaved, creating an immediate transition between hair and skin and connecting the outline from the right sideburn to the outline from the left sideburn across the nape. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 115 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 97 The outline at the edge of the nape can be in a squared off or rounded pattern. A squared off nape can have squared or rounded corners. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 115 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 97 [11] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMoler1928-11) : 90 Rotary, taper and edger clippers can be used when edging or siding a haircut. Guards and/or blades can be attached that vary the cutting length. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 54 Tapers [ edit ] A tapered back and sides generally contours to the head shape; the hair progressively graduates in length from longer hair at the upper portions of the head to shorter hair at the lower edge of hair growth on the back and sides. [3] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEScali-Snipes1999-3) : 259 There are a variety of tapers possible from short to extra long. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 129–131 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 98–101 Medium and longer tapers can be referred to as trims; however, the word trim is commonly used to request that the hair is trimmed back to the last haircut regardless of the style of taper. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 131 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 96 The sideburns and the shape and height of the neck edge are important design elements that can affect the appearance of the face, neck, chin, ears, profile and overall style. In most instances, a shorter neck or chin suits a somewhat higher neck edge; a longer neck or chin suits a somewhat lower neck edge. An extra wide neck suits a somewhat narrower neck edge while a thinner neck or protruding ears suit a wider neck edge. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 132–137 When slightly longer sideburns are worn than are appropriate for a style, it can shorten the appearance of the face; when slightly shorter sideburns are worn than are appropriate, it can lengthen the appearance of the face; therefore, the appearance of a face that is shorter or longer than average, in particular when due to the length of the chin or lower face, can be normalized by altering the length of the sideburns. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 128, 131 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 89–90, 135–136 Short [ edit ] Main article: Crew cut (/wiki/Crew_cut) Half vs full crown Short taper cut Other names for this style of taper include full crown , tight cut , and fade . [12] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBooker189224-12) [13] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEModern_Barber_College1946-13) : 50 [14] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMoler1905-14) : 40–43 [11] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMoler1928-11) : 41–45, 100 [3] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEScali-Snipes1999-3) : 282 [15] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1958-15) : 133 The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade from the lower edge of hair growth to or nearly full up to the crown. The clipper is gradually arced out of the hair at the hat band to achieve a taper. A fine clipper is used from the sideburn to about an inch above the ear. Clipper lines are blended out so there is a seamless transition between lengths. [11] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMoler1928-11) : 100–103 [15] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1958-15) : 129 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 98 Sideburns, which may not be visible at the time of the haircut depending on the color, thickness and density of the hair, skin tone and fine clipper blade used, are maintained short between haircuts. Short sideburns extend to the area where the ear cartilage attaches to the skull or slightly lower if ear shape requires to allow a sideburn to be defined. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 128, 129 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 89–90, 135–136 Can be worn with an ivy league (/wiki/Ivy_League_(haircut)) , high and tight (/wiki/High_and_tight) , flat top crew cut (/wiki/Flattop) , butch (/wiki/Butch_cut) and other styles; and often the choice with these styles during the summer. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 129, 132, 133, 135, 142, 143 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 108, 110, 113 [11] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMoler1928-11) : 94 A short crew cut is sometimes referred to as a butch (/wiki/Butch_cut) , though with the exception of variant forms, a butch differs from a crew cut in that the top hair is cut a uniform short length. [16] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971113-16) A long crew cut can be referred to in the US as an ivy league crew cut (/wiki/Ivy_League_(haircut)) or ivy league . [17] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty197197-17) [18] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971102-18) A crew cut where the hair on the top of the head is graduated in length from the front hairline to a chosen point on the mid to back part of the crown as a flat plane, of level, upward sloping or downward sloping inclination is known as a flat top crew cut (/wiki/Flattop) or flattop. [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967133-134-19) [20] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971110–111-20) The crew cut, flat top crew cut, butch cut and Ivy League haircut can be referred to as types of buzz cuts (/wiki/Buzz_cut) . [21] (#cite_note-Eowz1-21) [22] (#cite_note-Eovs1-22) These haircuts have become popular military-inspired styles for men who want a short and low-maintenance look. [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-Eolife2-24) [25] (#cite_note-Eowp1-25) Semi-short [ edit ] Semi-short Also known as a half crown . [13] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEModern_Barber_College1946-13) : 51 [14] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMoler1905-14) : 41–45 [11] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMoler1928-11) : 91 The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade about halfway up to the crown; the clipper starts to gradually arc out of the hair at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade is used at the sideburns and at the nape arcing out of the hair to create a blend at a point between the bottom and the top of the ears. [11] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMoler1928-11) : 91–99 [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 130 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 99 Sideburns are generally worn short as the hair grows out or slightly longer than short but not quite medium. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 128, 130 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 89–90, 135–136 Blending at the upper sides can utilize clipper over comb or shears over comb techniques. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118, 119 While a semi-short taper can be worn with a regular haircut, it is very common with an ivy league, crew cut, flat top crew cut, butch, brush cut, or burr. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 130, 132, 133, 142–143 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 108, 110, 113 Medium [ edit ] Medium taper cut A coarse clipper blade may be used on the sideburns, with the clipper immediately arcing out of the hair, completing the taper at the top of the ears. In the nape area, the coarse clipper starts to arc out at the middle of the ears with the taper completed at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade tapers the lower edge of the hairline at the nape to the skin. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 130 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 99 The lower edge of hair growth at the nape can alternatively be blocked off in a squared or rounded pattern. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 115 Medium sideburns are appropriate with face shapes that are neither long or short. Medium sideburns extend to the top of the ear orifice. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 128 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 89–90, 135–136 The hair on the middle part of the back and sides can be shortened, thinned and blended using a variety of methods including shears over comb, clipper over comb, thinning shears method, slithering with standard barber's shears, shear point tapering or razor methods. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118–119, 121 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 68–69 A common style with a regular haircut, medium pompadour or ivy league and also worn with a crew cut or flattop. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 130, 132–133, 144 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 108, 110 Long [ edit ] Long taper cut A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape area, arcing out of the hair at the bottom of the ears with the taper completed at mid ear. A fine clipper blade is used to taper the edge at the hairline. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 131 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 99 A long taper is frequently blocked at the nape in a squared or rounded pattern instead of being tapered to the skin. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 115 Long sideburns are appropriate for average face shapes. Long sideburns extend to the middle of the ear opening. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 128, 131 The middle section of the back and sides is most often cut shears over comb or shears over fingers; can also be cut with a razor. Thinning, layering and blending of the middle section of the back and sides can be accomplished with thinning shears, slithering or razor techniques. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118–119, 121 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 68–69 Most frequently worn with a regular haircut or a long pompadour. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 131, 145–146 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 99–101 Extra long [ edit ] Extra long taper cut A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape, immediately arcing out of the hair, with the taper completed below the bottom of the ears. A fine clipper blade may be used to taper the lower edge of the hairline to the skin. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 99–100 An extra long taper is frequently blocked at the nape in a squared or rounded pattern; a deconstructed arch around the ears and a deconstructed or shaggy block at the nape are also quite common. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 99–101 Extra long sideburns are appropriate; extra long sideburns extend to the top of the ear lobe. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 89–90, 135–136 The middle section of the back and sides is most often cut shears over comb or shears over fingers; can also be cut with a razor. Thinning, layering and blending of the middle section of the back and sides can be accomplished with thinning shears, slithering or razor techniques. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 118–119, 121 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 68–69 Apart from being worn with a regular haircut, also worn with an extra long pompadour. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 99, 101 Topping [ edit ] Topping includes shortening, layering, and thinning the hair on the crown and frontal areas to attain the desired length, volume, degree of contour, graduation, and layering. The technique most widely used to shorten, layer and graduate the hair is the shears over finger method, also known as finger work. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 70 [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 119 Finger work involves initially lifting the hair to be cut with the comb, then grasping the lifted hair between the index and middle finger of the opposite hand while transferring the comb to that hand and cutting it with the shears held in the hand that initially held the comb. The comb is then transferred back to the hand that holds the shears and the process is repeated in swaths that go from front to back, outer to inner areas of the right and left sides of the top. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 70–71 [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 111–112 The angle at which the hair is held away from the scalp is critical as it affects how the cut hair will graduate and layer. Depending on the area of the scalp and the desired appearance of the cut hair, the angle will range from around 45 to 135 degrees. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 73–75 Shears over comb techniques include the up and over method and the shear lifting method. In both methods, the hair to be cut is held up by the comb and cut with shears. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 69, 72 [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 119, 121 The up and over method is a continuous process where the strips of cut hair run from the front hairline back or from the side hairline upwards. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 72 [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 119 In the shear lifting method, the process is not continuous but carried out sectionally from left to right across the top of the head proceeding from the crown to the front. For example, there may be fifteen separate sections, three across the top of the head from side to side and five from the crown forward. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 121 [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 72 Cutting proceeds from crown left to crown right and so on to front left to front right. As with the shears over finger method, the angle of the hair to the scalp as it is cut is critical to the layered and graduated appearance of the cut hair. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 73, 75 Depending on the thickness of the hair and the desired volume, topping may include thinning which can be accomplished by a variety of methods including thinning shears method, slithering with regular barber shears or the push back method with regular shears or thinning shears. The hair to be thinned may be held with the fingers or comb. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 84–85 [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 110 Whorls, cowlicks, and irregularities of the scalp can be addressed by shear point tapering techniques. Only a few hairs are cut in the problem areas using just the tips of the shears, over comb. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 137 Topping as well as siding may also be achieved with razor cutting techniques. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrusty1971-2) : 138–149 Guards and blades [ edit ] Three types of clippers can be utilized to achieve a regular haircut: taper clippers, rotary clippers and outliner/edger clippers. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 54 Taper clippers are powered by a linear or pivot motor. The blades are not readily interchangeable. The taper lever allows adjustment of the cutting length within a certain range, usually from #000 blade length, 1 ⁄ 50 inch (0.51 mm) on the fine side to #1 length, 3 ⁄ 32 inch (2.4 mm) on the coarse side. For longer lengths, clipper guards are attached. The guard will cut at the numbered guard length when the taper lever is in the shortest cutting position. Clipper guards are also known as clipper guide combs. [26] (#cite_note-Eok-26) [27] (#cite_note-Eol-27) Fade clippers are identical to taper clippers with the exception of the range of cutting lengths which is entirely within the fine blade range. Most fade clippers cut between #00000 blade length, 1 ⁄ 125 inch (0.20 mm) and #000 blade length, 1 ⁄ 50 inch (0.51 mm). As with regular taper clippers, clipper guards can be attached for longer cutting lengths. [28] (#cite_note-Eom-28) Rotary clippers have blades that readily snap on and off. Blades are available that leave from 1 ⁄ 250 inch (0.10 mm) to 3 ⁄ 4 inch (19 mm) of hair on the scalp when the clipper is guided over the head with the teeth of the clipper blade in contact with the scalp. Blades are numbered differently than guards. Rotary clippers are designed to accept a certain standard blade type, so that blades from a variety of manufacturers designed to the specific standard may be utilized on a clipper designed to that standard, regardless of manufacturer. [29] (#cite_note-Eow-29) [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 55 Outliner/edger clippers have a very fine cutting blade and no taper lever and are used to outline a defined arch around the ear and for block cuts, the edge at the nape of the neck. [30] (#cite_note-Eop-30) [31] (#cite_note-Eoq-31) [32] (#cite_note-Eor-32) [33] (#cite_note-Eos-33) [34] (#cite_note-Eot-34) [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 54 Guards [ edit ] Human scalp hair grows on average about one eighth inch per week or one half inch per month. [35] (#cite_note-Eoj-35) Most clipper guards are numbered in eighths of an inch. The number of the guard denotes the number of weeks of hair growth left on the scalp when a clipper with a certain numbered guard is guided over the head with the guard in contact with the scalp. A #1 guard leaves 1 ⁄ 8 inch (3.2 mm), one week's growth of hair, on the scalp; a #2 guard leaves 2 ⁄ 8 inch (6.4 mm), two weeks' hair growth, on the scalp; a #3 guard leaves 3 ⁄ 8 inch (9.5 mm), three weeks' hair growth on the scalp; and so on. [36] (#cite_note-Eok2-36) Blades [ edit ] Cutting blade type Blade Hair remaining Inches Millimetres Growth Fine cutting blades (also referred to as zero blades) #000000 1 ⁄ 250 0.10 5 hours #00000 1 ⁄ 125 0.20 10 hours #0000 1 ⁄ 100 0.25 15 hours #0000A 1 ⁄ 75 0.34 20 hours #000 1 ⁄ 50 0.51 1 day #00 1 ⁄ 30 0.85 1.5 days #0 1 ⁄ 25 1.0 2 days #0A 3 ⁄ 64 1.2 2.5 days Medium coarse cutting blades (#1, #1A, #1.5) #1 3 ⁄ 32 2.4 5 days #1A 1 ⁄ 8 3.2 1 week #1.5 5 ⁄ 32 4.0 9 days Full coarse cutting blades (#2, #3.5 and #3.75) #2 1 ⁄ 4 6.4 2 weeks #3.5 3 ⁄ 8 9.5 3 weeks #3.75 1 ⁄ 2 13 4 weeks Longer cutting blades 5/8 H/T 5 ⁄ 8 16 5 weeks 3/4 H/T 3 ⁄ 4 19 6 weeks [29] (#cite_note-Eow-29) [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967-1) : 54 Gallery [ edit ] Long Medium Medium-long Extra long, long, long (left to right) Semi-short See also [ edit ] List of hairstyles (/wiki/List_of_hairstyles) Brush cut (/wiki/Brush_cut) Buzz cut (/wiki/Buzz_cut) Comb (/wiki/Comb) Crew cut (/wiki/Crew_cut) Curtained hair (/wiki/Curtained_hair) Ducktail (/wiki/Ducktail) Flattop (/wiki/Flattop) Hair clipper (/wiki/Hair_clipper) High and tight (/wiki/High_and_tight) Ivy League (/wiki/Ivy_League_(haircut)) Mullet (/wiki/Mullet_(haircut)) Pompadour (hairstyle) (/wiki/Pompadour_(hairstyle)) Quiff (/wiki/Quiff) Razor (/wiki/Razor) References [ edit ] ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as Thorpe 1967 (#CITEREFThorpe1967) . ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as Trusty 1971 (#CITEREFTrusty1971) . ^ a b c Scali-Snipes 1999 (#CITEREFScali-Snipes1999) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEStewartFord2003188_4-0) Stewart & Ford 2003 (#CITEREFStewartFord2003) , p. 188. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Steven Gerrard's Liverpool career in stickers" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/football/32739180) . BBC Sport . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "short back and sides" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150705064813/http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/short-back-and-sides?q=short+back+and+sides) . Archived from the original (http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/short-back-and-sides?q=short+back+and+sides) on July 5, 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-7) "short back and sides" (https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/short-back-and-sides) . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "A Haircut Returns From the 1930s (Published 2011)" (https://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/17/fashion/a-haircut-returns-from-the-1930s.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230418020848/https://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/17/fashion/a-haircut-returns-from-the-1930s.html) from the original on 2023-04-18. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Hipster or Nazi? (https://www.thestar.com/life/2016/12/03/does-my-haircut-make-me-look-like-a-hipster-or-a-donald-trump-loving-nazi.html) ^ (#cite_ref-10) Every dude is getting this haircut (http://jezebel.com/this-is-the-haircut-every-dude-you-know-is-getting-1563929769) ^ a b c d e f Moler 1928 (#CITEREFMoler1928) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBooker189224_12-0) Booker 1892 (#CITEREFBooker1892) , p. 24. ^ a b Modern Barber College 1946 (#CITEREFModern_Barber_College1946) . ^ a b Moler 1905 (#CITEREFMoler1905) . ^ a b Thorpe 1958 (#CITEREFThorpe1958) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTETrusty1971113_16-0) Trusty 1971 (#CITEREFTrusty1971) , p. 113. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTETrusty197197_17-0) Trusty 1971 (#CITEREFTrusty1971) , p. 97. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTETrusty1971102_18-0) Trusty 1971 (#CITEREFTrusty1971) , p. 102. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEThorpe1967133-134_19-0) Thorpe 1967 (#CITEREFThorpe1967) , p. 133-134. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTETrusty1971110–111_20-0) Trusty 1971 (#CITEREFTrusty1971) , pp. 110–111. ^ (#cite_ref-Eowz1_21-0) George Thomas Simon (1974), Glen Miller and His Orchestra , Hachette Books, p. 343, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0306801299 [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-Eovs1_22-0) Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair , Bloomsbury Academic, p. 194, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313331459 ^ (#cite_ref-23) "35 Best Military Haircuts" (https://www.menshairstylestoday.com/military-haircuts/) . Men's Hairstyles Today. March 23, 2023 . Retrieved April 4, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Eolife2_24-0) "The Men 300,000 New Sailors Will Make The Navy Their Career" (https://books.google.com/books?id=KkoEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA89) . Life (/wiki/Life_(magazine)) . Vol. 9, no. 18. 28 October 1940. ^ (#cite_ref-Eowp1_25-0) Gordon L. Rottman (2007), Fubar: Soldier Slang of World War II , Bloomsbury USA, p. 52, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781846031755 [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-Eok_26-0) Andis (2003), Model ML (PDF) , archived from the original (https://www.andis.com/uploads/productfiles/12202%20Rev%20R_ML_UC.pdf) (PDF) on 2013-05-01 ^ (#cite_ref-Eol_27-0) Oster (2013), Model 76023-510 ^ (#cite_ref-Eom_28-0) Andis (2004), Form 01604 (PDF) , archived from the original (https://www.andis.com/uploads/productfiles/Cat_01690.pdf) (PDF) on 2014-01-11 ^ a b Oster (2013), Classic 76 Clipper Blades ^ (#cite_ref-Eop_30-0) Andis (2003), Form 04942 (PDF) ^ (#cite_ref-Eoq_31-0) Andis (2003), Form 04941 (PDF) ^ (#cite_ref-Eor_32-0) Andis (2007), Form 15341 (PDF) ^ (#cite_ref-Eos_33-0) Oster (2013), Model 76059-010 ^ (#cite_ref-Eot_34-0) Oster (2013), Model 76059-030 ^ (#cite_ref-Eoj_35-0) Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair , Bloomsbury Academic, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313331459 ^ (#cite_ref-Eok2_36-0) John Oster (2013), Universal Comb Attachments Bibliography [ edit ] Booker, Benjamin (1892). The Secret of Barbering . Unattributed Publisher. Modern Barber College (1946). Modern Textbook of Barbering . Modern Barber College. Moler, A.B. (1905). The Barbers', Hairdressers' and Manicurers' Manual . Unattributed Publisher. Moler, A.B. (1928). Standardized Barbers' Manual . Unnattributed Publisher. Scali-Snipes, Mara (1999). Milady's Standard Textbook of Professional Barber Styling . Milady Publishing Corporation. Stewart, Helen; Ford, Gilly (2003). Hairdressing with Barbering . Heinemann Educational Publishers. Thorpe, S.C. (1958). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering . Milady Publishing Corporation. Thorpe, S.C. (1967). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering . Milady Publishing Corporation. Trusty, L. Sherman (1971). The Art and Science of Barbering . Wolfer Printing Co. External links [ edit ] Wikibooks has a book on the topic of: Body_Hair_Removal/Technique (https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Body_Hair_Removal/Technique) The dictionary definition of regular haircut at Wiktionary v t e Human hair (/wiki/Hair) Classification by type Lanugo (/wiki/Lanugo) Body (/wiki/Body_hair) Terminal (/wiki/Terminal_hair) Vellus (/wiki/Vellus_hair) by location Body (/wiki/Body_hair) Ear (/wiki/Ear_hair) Nose (/wiki/Nasal_hair) Eyebrow (/wiki/Eyebrow) unibrow (/wiki/Unibrow) Eyelash (/wiki/Eyelash) Underarm (/wiki/Underarm_hair) Chest (/wiki/Chest_hair) Abdominal (/wiki/Abdominal_hair) Pubic (/wiki/Pubic_hair) Leg (/wiki/Leg_hair) Head hairstyles (/wiki/Hairstyle) ( list (/wiki/List_of_hairstyles) ) Afro (/wiki/Afro) Afro puffs (/wiki/Afro_puffs) Asymmetric cut (/wiki/Asymmetric_cut) Bald (/wiki/Hair_loss) Bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) Beehive (/wiki/Beehive_(hairstyle)) Big hair (/wiki/Big_hair) Blowout (/wiki/Long_hair) Bob cut (/wiki/Bob_cut) Bouffant (/wiki/Bouffant) Bowl 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(/wiki/Mullet_(haircut)) 1950s (/wiki/Hairstyles_in_the_1950s) 1980s (/wiki/Hairstyles_in_the_1980s) Pageboy (/wiki/Pageboy) Part (/wiki/Part_(haircut)) Payot (/wiki/Payot) Pigtail (/wiki/Pigtail) Pixie cut (/wiki/Pixie_cut) Pompadour (/wiki/Pompadour_(hairstyle)) Ponytail (/wiki/Ponytail) Punch perm (/wiki/Punch_perm) Professional cut Queue (/wiki/Queue_(hairstyle)) Quiff (/wiki/Quiff) Rattail (/wiki/Rattail_(hairstyle)) Razor cut (/wiki/Razor_cut) Regular haircut Ringlets (/wiki/Ringlet_(haircut)) Shag (/wiki/Shag_(haircut)) Shape-up (/wiki/Shape-up) Shikha (/wiki/Shikha_(hairstyle)) Shimada (/wiki/Shimada_(hairstyle)) Short back and sides Short brush cut (/wiki/Brush_cut) Short hair (/wiki/Short_hair) Spiky hair (/wiki/Liberty_spikes) Straight hair (/wiki/Straight_hair) Standard haircut Step cut (/wiki/Step_cutting) Surfer hair (/wiki/Surfer_hair) Taper cut Temple fade (/wiki/Temple_fade_(hairstyle)) Titus cut (/wiki/Titus_cut) Tonsure (/wiki/Tonsure) Updo (/wiki/Updo) Undercut 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(/wiki/Laser_hair_removal) IPL (/wiki/Intense_pulsed_light) Shaving (/wiki/Shaving) head (/wiki/Head_shaving) leg (/wiki/Leg_shaving) cream (/wiki/Shaving_cream) brush (/wiki/Shaving_brush) soap (/wiki/Shaving_soap) Razor (/wiki/Razor) electric (/wiki/Electric_shaver) safety (/wiki/Safety_razor) straight (/wiki/Straight_razor) disorders Alopecia (/wiki/Hair_loss) areata (/wiki/Alopecia_areata) totalis (/wiki/Alopecia_totalis) universalis (/wiki/Alopecia_universalis) Frictional alopecia (/wiki/Frictional_alopecia) Pattern hair loss (/wiki/Pattern_hair_loss) Hypertrichosis (/wiki/Hypertrichosis) Management (/wiki/Management_of_hair_loss) Trichophilia (/wiki/Trichophilia) Trichotillomania (/wiki/Trichotillomania) Pogonophobia (/wiki/Pogonophobia) Haircare products Brush (/wiki/Hairbrush) Clay (/wiki/Hair_clay) Clipper (/wiki/Hair_clipper) Comb (/wiki/Comb) Conditioner (/wiki/Hair_conditioner) Dryer (/wiki/Hair_dryer) Gel (/wiki/Hair_gel) Hairstyling products (/wiki/Hairstyling_product) 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(/wiki/Eponymous_hairstyle) Frizz (/wiki/Frizz) Good hair (/wiki/Good_hair) Hairdresser (/wiki/Hairdresser) list (/wiki/List_of_hairdressers) Hair fetishism (/wiki/Hair_fetishism) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐fx2pw Cached time: 20240720171307 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 1.402 seconds Real time usage: 1.540 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 34330/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 186135/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 22156/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 145633/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.759/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 9984987/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 1392.847 1 -total 36.46% 507.840 105 Template:Rp 34.87% 485.751 105 Template:R/superscript 20.42% 284.475 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Women's outer garment, popular in 19th century A visite in silk trimmed with beaver fur, 1885 A visite is a specific type of woman's outer garment similar to a mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) or wrap (/wiki/Wrap_(clothing)) . It was particularly popular in the late 19th century, being specifically designed to accommodate the then fashionable bustle (/wiki/Bustle) . [1] (#cite_note-kyoto1-1) The visite replaced the huge shawls (/wiki/Shawl) that had previously been worn over large crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) skirts, combining shawl and coat elements, and was even on occasion made using shawls that were valuable but no longer fashionable. [2] (#cite_note-kyoto2-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-kyoto1_1-0) Fukai, Akiko (2002). Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a history from the 18th to the 20th century . Köln [etc.]: Taschen (/wiki/Taschen) . p. 264. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9783822812068 . ^ (#cite_ref-kyoto2_2-0) Fukai, Akiko (2002). Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a history from the 18th to the 20th century . Köln [etc.]: Taschen. p. 226. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9783822812068 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Taylor, Lou (2002). The study of dress history (first Repr. ed.). Manchester: Manchester University Press. p. 17. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780719040658 . This fashion (/wiki/Fashion) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Visite&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.eqiad.main‐85f5b4c5d4‐xjrqz Cached time: 20240712172419 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.277 seconds Real time usage: 0.485 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 378/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 9371/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 566/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 1/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 16423/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.184/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3976716/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 328.359 1 -total 40.47% 132.898 1 Template:Reflist 33.67% 110.566 3 Template:Cite_book 31.89% 104.703 1 Template:Short_description 26.54% 87.134 1 Template:Fashion-stub 25.76% 84.597 1 Template:Asbox 15.51% 50.932 2 Template:Pagetype 11.38% 37.368 3 Template:Main_other 10.36% 34.008 1 Template:SDcat 0.99% 3.249 1 Template:Short_description/lowercasecheck Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:43506433-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712172419 and revision id 1217904124. Rendering was triggered because: unknown esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Visite&oldid=1217904124 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Visite&oldid=1217904124) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Fashion stubs (/wiki/Category:Fashion_stubs) Mantles (clothing) (/wiki/Category:Mantles_(clothing)) 1870s fashion (/wiki/Category:1870s_fashion) 1880s fashion (/wiki/Category:1880s_fashion) Coats (clothing) (/wiki/Category:Coats_(clothing)) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)
NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐846c9c86c8‐tzk6z Cached time: 20240702055622 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [] CPU time usage: 0.002 seconds Real time usage: 0.003 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 0/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 0/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 1/100 Expensive parser function count: 0/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 0/5000000 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 0.000 1 -total Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:13504532-0!canonical and timestamp 20240702055622 and revision id 161327964. Rendering was triggered because: page-view Subcategories This category has the following 2 subcategories, out of 2 total. A Adidas (/wiki/Category:Adidas) ‎ (5 C, 34 P) P Puma (brand) (/wiki/Category:Puma_(brand)) ‎ (11 P) Pages in category "Shoe companies of Germany" The following 13 pages are in this category, out of 13 total. This list may not reflect recent changes (/wiki/Wikipedia:FAQ/Categorization#Why_might_a_category_list_not_be_up_to_date?) . A Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) B Birkenstock (/wiki/Birkenstock) Brütting (/wiki/Br%C3%BCtting) Buffalo (footwear) (/wiki/Buffalo_(footwear)) D Deichmann SE (/wiki/Deichmann_SE) H Hanwag (/wiki/Hanwag) J Jil Sander (brand) (/wiki/Jil_Sander_(brand)) K Klauser Schuhe (/wiki/Klauser_Schuhe) M Meindl (company) (/wiki/Meindl_(company)) P Puma (brand) (/wiki/Puma_(brand)) R Rohde Shoes (/wiki/Rohde_Shoes) S S.Oliver (/wiki/S.Oliver) Z Zalando (/wiki/Zalando) esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Shoe_companies_of_Germany&oldid=161327964 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Shoe_companies_of_Germany&oldid=161327964) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Shoe companies by country (/wiki/Category:Shoe_companies_by_country) Clothing companies of Germany (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_of_Germany)
Brazilian fashion designer Carlos Miele A Carlos Miele label design in 2011 Born Manaus (/wiki/Manaus) , Amazonas (/wiki/Amazonas_(Brazilian_state)) , Brazil Nationality Brazilian-Italian Education Fundação Getulio Vargas (/wiki/Funda%C3%A7%C3%A3o_Getulio_Vargas) (FGV) Labels Carlos Miele Miele Carlos Miele is a Brazilian fashion designer. His labels sell in more than 30 countries worldwide. [1] (#cite_note-1) He specializes in women's ready-to-wear collections. He established his own label, Carlos Miele, in 2002, and a second label, Miele, in 2006. [2] (#cite_note-2) Carlos Miele is based in São Paulo (/wiki/S%C3%A3o_Paulo) , Brazil. Background [ edit ] Carlos Miele is a self-trained clothing designer, and began his design career creston bc "creating performance art and crafting installations for museums and exhibit venues around the globe". [3] (#cite_note-3) In addition to clothing design, he remains interested in cinema and architecture. The first flagship Carlos Miele shop in New York City was designed by architect Hani Rashid (/wiki/Hani_Rashid) , and was the New York City entry to the International Architecture Biennale of São Paulo (/wiki/International_Architecture_Biennale_of_S%C3%A3o_Paulo) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Despite his interest in many facets of design, he pursued business studies at the Fundação Getulio Vargas (/wiki/Funda%C3%A7%C3%A3o_Getulio_Vargas) (FGV), an elite Latin American institution. [5] (#cite_note-5) Miele has dual Brazilian and Italian citizenship; he is the grandson of Italian immigrants to Brazil. [6] (#cite_note-6) Carlos Miele label [ edit ] The Carlos Miele label was established in 2002. In 2006, the label Miele was established to offer women's ready-to-wear designs in a more casual style and at a somewhat lower price range than the Carlos Miele label. [7] (#cite_note-7) Carlos Miele also produces a line of premium denim. Carlos Miele designs play with unexpected results that come from mixing technology and traditional handcrafted design. His designs are also influenced by Brazilian artisan creations, and his clothing frequently features traditional Brazilian elements supplied by regional artisan cooperatives. [8] (#cite_note-8) Miele in fact works with artisans in Brazil's favelas and indigenous communities to ensure fair trade (/wiki/Fair_trade) practises and fair wages for the artisans. [9] (#cite_note-9) He has been noted for a "flair for dramatic presentations", [10] (#cite_note-10) with sensual flowing and clinging fabrics being characteristic. Suzy Menkes (/wiki/Suzy_Menkes) noted the emphasis on blending technology with elemental nature themes in the designs of several shows during the 2012 Spring-Summer shows in New York City; Miele commented, "I see a dialogue between artificial and natural, modified beauty and organic, technology and life". [11] (#cite_note-11) Carlos Miele signature clothing is sold in more than 30 countries; as of 2011, there are Carlos Miele flagship stores in New York City, Paris and São Paulo. [12] (#cite_note-12) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Brazil portal (/wiki/Portal:Brazil) List of fashion designers (/wiki/List_of_fashion_designers) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Michault, Jessica (9 November 2011). "Carlos Miele — Fashion and Art" (https://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/10/fashion/10iht-rcarlos.html) . November 9, 2011 . New York Times . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Carlos Miele -- Fashion Designer Label" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111101123430/http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/carlosmiele/) . New York Fashion (New York Media LLC). Archived from the original (http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/carlosmiele/) on November 1, 2011 . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Michault, Jessica (9 November 2011). "Carlos Miele — Fashion and Art" (https://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/10/fashion/10iht-rcarlos.html) . November 9, 2011 . New York Times . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Carlos Miele" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111124142314/http://www.mbfashionweek.com/designers/carlos_miele) . Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Archived from the original (http://www.mbfashionweek.com/designers/carlos_miele) on November 24, 2011 . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Carlos Miele" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111124142314/http://www.mbfashionweek.com/designers/carlos_miele) . Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Archived from the original (http://www.mbfashionweek.com/designers/carlos_miele) on November 24, 2011 . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Carlos Miele" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111124142314/http://www.mbfashionweek.com/designers/carlos_miele) . Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Archived from the original (http://www.mbfashionweek.com/designers/carlos_miele) on November 24, 2011 . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Carlos Miele -- Fashion Designer Label" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111101123430/http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/carlosmiele/) . New York Fashion (New York Media LLC). Archived from the original (http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/carlosmiele/) on November 1, 2011 . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Carlos Miele" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111124142314/http://www.mbfashionweek.com/designers/carlos_miele) . Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Archived from the original (http://www.mbfashionweek.com/designers/carlos_miele) on November 24, 2011 . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Steele, Valerie (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion . Berg. p. 472. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84788-563-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Moussavian, Anahita (12 September 2011). "Carlos Miele" (http://www.nypost.com/p/entertainment/fashion/fashion_week/carlos_miele_Y0NnbwUwRPe6YDKmZwnrFP) . September 12, 2011 . New York Post . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Menkes, Suzy (13 September 2011). "The Runway Dialogue: Artificial vs. Natural" (https://www.nytimes.com/2011/09/14/fashion/carlos-miele-carolina-herrera-and-marc-by-marc-jacobs-focus-on-blending-inspirations.html) . New York Times . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Michault, Jessica (9 November 2011). "Carlos Miele — Fashion and Art" (https://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/10/fashion/10iht-rcarlos.html) . November 9, 2011 . New York Times . Retrieved November 23, 2011 . External links [ edit ] Carlos Miele (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/carlos-miele/) at FMD (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/487778/) ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000044758666) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/71070192) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJpv4QgtYRKGPmM6FGvvHC) National United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/no2002113556) Other SNAC (https://snaccooperative.org/ark:/99166/w62j7gzz) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐5f85d49c4f‐44sml Cached time: 20240722082522 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.498 seconds Real time usage: 0.984 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2096/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 29589/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1516/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 10/100 Expensive parser function count: 9/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 51568/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.308/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6847790/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 615.353 1 -total 37.81% 232.656 1 Template:Reflist 27.18% 167.249 4 Template:Cite_news 23.09% 142.074 1 Template:Infobox_fashion_designer 15.22% 93.632 1 Template:Authority_control 14.75% 90.745 1 Template:Short_description 8.08% 49.718 2 Template:Pagetype 7.09% 43.647 16 Template:Main_other 6.27% 38.588 20 Template:Pluralize_from_text 6.03% 37.078 7 Template:Cite_web Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:33848698-0!canonical and timestamp 20240722082522 and revision id 1230354444. 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American custom clothing company This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Black_Lapel) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Black_Lapel) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article's tone or style may not reflect the encyclopedic tone (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Tone) used on Wikipedia . See Wikipedia's guide to writing better articles (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Tone) for suggestions. ( May 2024 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article is an orphan (/wiki/Wikipedia:Orphan) , as no other articles link to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:WhatLinksHere&target=Black_Lapel&namespace=0) . Please introduce links (/wiki/Help:Link) to this page from related articles (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special%3ASearch&redirs=1&search=Black+Lapel&fulltext=Search&ns0=1&title=Special%3ASearch&advanced=1&fulltext=Black+Lapel) ; try the Find link tool (https://edwardbetts.com/find_link?q=Black_Lapel) for suggestions. ( May 2024 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) BL Custom, LLC dba Black Lapel Custom Suits Industry Menswear & Apparel Founder Derek Tian (/w/index.php?title=Derek_Tian&action=edit&redlink=1) Warren Liao (/w/index.php?title=Warren_Liao&action=edit&redlink=1) Headquarters Salt Lake City, UT Number of locations 3 Showrooms (2024) Key people Hayden Bryant (/w/index.php?title=Hayden_Bryant&action=edit&redlink=1) ( Owner (/wiki/Owner) ) Daniel McConkie (/w/index.php?title=Daniel_McConkie&action=edit&redlink=1) ( Owner (/wiki/Owner) ) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) MCC Apparel Black Lapel is a menswear (/wiki/Fashion) -focused custom clothing (/wiki/Made-to-measure) company founded in 2012 by Derek Tian and Warren Liao. Black Lapel was founded with the intention to make custom clothing accessible and available online as well as provide style advice and guides on workplace etiquitte (/wiki/Etiquette) , dating (/wiki/Dating) , and other lifestyle (/wiki/Lifestyle_(social_sciences)) topics. [1] (#cite_note-1) While the original founders began their careers in finance (/wiki/Finance) , Tian and Liao found that options for suiting (/wiki/Suit) that were appropriate for their profession weren't satisfying all of their needs—notably, finding something that fit properly at an affordable price. As a result, their desire to fix their own pain points when shopping for suiting led them to create the Black Lapel brand. [2] (#cite_note-2) The pair started their business venture with less than $400,000 in seed money (/wiki/Seed_money) . [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) The company started their customer acquisition (/wiki/Customer_acquisition_management) strategy by focusing heavily on a content creation and amassed a loyal following through their Style Journal . [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) By also creating a loyalty program (/wiki/Loyalty_program) for when clients finally made their first purchase. Black Lapel typically sees repeat client business deals with over 70% of their customer base. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) In order to successfully offer custom suiting online using customer provided measurements, the team developed a proprietary sizing algorithm (/wiki/Algorithm) that could correct user error and vastly reduce return and remake rates. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) In fact, by 2018, the business had refined the algorithm enough that they were able to reduce return rates below 2% in an industry where typical return rates hover between 20 and 30%. [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) The company has also explored selling accessories and other merchandise, including collaborations with handmade shoemaker Quero [5] (#cite_note-5) as well as Stuart & Lau [6] (#cite_note-6) to offer bags and briefcases designed in tandem. While initially focused on online sales, the company opened a showroom (/wiki/Showroom) in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) in 2016. [7] (#cite_note-7) The showroom (/wiki/Showroom) closed shortly before COVID (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) on March, 17th 2020, [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) but was reopened in a new location in 2022. Despite production being based out of Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai) , the website was able to continue operating and offering custom suiting throughout COVID, though often with extended lead times. [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) Black Lapel recently merged with fellow menswear brands Blank Label [9] (#cite_note-9) and Ratio Clothing, [10] (#cite_note-10) but will continue to operate under the Black Lapel name. [11] (#cite_note-:3-11) The new group of brands is owned by a US-based manufacturing company which seeks to improve the brands reach through this strategic alliance. [11] (#cite_note-:3-11) Through this partnership, the company also launched a new showroom for both Black Lapel and Ratio Clothing in 2024 in Denver, Colorado (/wiki/Denver) [12] (#cite_note-12) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Pineda, Miguel (July 28, 2018). "Black Lapel's mission: Make custom formalwear suitable for the masses" (https://www.cnbc.com/2018/07/27/online-retailer-black-lapel-is-helping-shape-the-new-mens-formal-wear.html) . CNBC . Retrieved February 8, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) DeAcetis, Joseph. "How Black Lapel Has Given Men A New Form Of Self Expression" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/josephdeacetis/2018/05/18/how-black-lapel-has-given-men-a-new-form-of-self-expression/) . Forbes . Retrieved February 8, 2024 . ^ a b c Garner, Stephen (May 1, 2018). "BLACK LAPEL AIMS TO MAKE ORDERING A CUSTOM SUIT ONLINE PAINLESS" (https://mr-mag.com/black-lapel-aims-to-make-ordering-a-custom-suit-online-painless/) . MR Magazine . Retrieved February 14, 2024 . ^ a b Wassel, Bryan (August 1, 2018). "Expert Advice Helps Keep Return Rates Below 2% For Black Lapel" (https://www.retailtouchpoints.com/features/news-briefs/expert-advice-helps-keep-return-rates-below-2-for-black-lapel) . Retail TouchPoints . Retrieved February 14, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Jake (November 9, 2018). "Black Lapel Launches Collaboration with Startup Shoe Brand Quero, Plus New Topcoats and Blazers" (https://www.modernfellows.com/black-lapel-launches-collaboration-with-quero/) . Modern Fellows . Retrieved February 14, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The Best Office Bags for Men" (https://blacklapel.com/thecompass/best-office-work-bags-for-men/) . December 15, 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Jake (August 30, 2016). "Look inside the new Black Lapel suit showroom with co-founder Derek Tian" (https://www.modernfellows.com/black-lapel-2016-winter-suit-collection/) . Modern Fellows . Retrieved February 8, 2024 . ^ a b Jake (March 18, 2020). "Black Lapel Co-Founder Discusses Coronavirus Impact, Sees "Significant Headwinds" for His Small Business" (https://www.modernfellows.com/black-lapel-coronavirus-impact-small-businesses/) . Modern Fellows . Retrieved February 14, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Blank Label \| Award Winning Men's Custom Suits, Dress Shirts" (https://www.blanklabel.com/) . Retrieved May 25, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Ratio Clothing (https://www.ratioclothing.com/) ^ a b Lapel, Black. "Black Lapel Expands to Denver with a New Store in Historic Larimer Square" (https://www.prweb.com/releases/black-lapel-expands-to-denver-with-a-new-store-in-historic-larimer-square-302026637.html) . www.prweb.com . Retrieved February 14, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Black Lapel" (https://www.larimersquare.com/black-lapel) . Larimer Square . Retrieved February 8, 2024 . 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