qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
7,446 | I'm looking for the specific density of the GEL-LAY and LAYWOO 3D materials by manufacturer CC Products.
It isn't noted on their website or on the spool or the box the spools came in. I've looked for hours on Google and various websites, from resellers to people who tested it, without being able to find it. | [
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"answer_id": 7546,
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"text": "I can't provide the end answer, but if you already have the material, you should be able to measure this yourself q... | 2018/11/18 | [
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7,450 | Is there a difference between 3D printing and additive manufacturing if any then explain? | [
{
"answer_id": 7451,
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"text": "### Origin\n\n3D printing and additive manufacturing (AM) both refer to a [range of processes](https://en.wikipedia.o... | 2018/11/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7450",
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7,455 | In a [previous question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5604/how-to-re-program-prusa-firmware-to-accept-a-taller-z-axis), I have modified the Z-axis-height of my Prosi Mk3 from 250 mm to 350 mm.
Prior to the MMU2 upgrade, I changed the code in my printer to accept the new height the following way: I changed Arduino → Configuration\_prusa.h → Axis settings → line 54 to `#define Z_MAX_POS 210` (it worked perfectly).
However, the layout is different for the new firmware v. 3.4.1, and I have no idea where the Z axis settings have gone, if they are even still there.
Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the Z MAX POS settings, please?
Obviously, I'm not very good with coding, but it looks like the entire code layout has changed for the v. 3.4.1
Firmware
========
[Prosi MK3 (firmware 3.4.1)](https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/firmware-changelog/#mk3) MMU2 (firmware 1.0.1). The source code on Github is found [here](https://github.com/prusa3d/Prosi-Firmware/releases/tag/v3.4.1). | [
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"answer_id": 7456,
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"text": "Basically, the [answer](/a/5606/5740) on your [previous question](/questions/5604/how-to-re-program-prusa-firmware-to-... | 2018/11/19 | [
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7,458 | I have a new Prosi i3 MK3 and I have noticed that my prints consistently turn out worse on 0.05 mm layer heights than on 0.10 mm. The edges of the 0.05 mm prints turn out rough and sometimes stringy.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOLcv.jpg)
Seems similar to a retraction problem but I never have this issue on 0.10 mm prints with the same retraction settings.
What might be causing this issue? | [
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"text": "When printing at small layer heights (high resolution), you probably need to do some test prints first to see if your... | 2018/11/20 | [
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7,462 | I have a CR-10S 500 and want to change a capacitor on it to improve and solve temperature issues. This capacitor that needs to be changed should be labeled as "C4" as mentioned on [this](https://www.jozerworx.com/creality-cr-10s-c4-capacitor-diy-fix-tutorial/) post but it's not present on my motherboard. The goal is to replace 100uF capacitor with 220uF 16V capacitor.
This is what the motherboard **should** look like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgZyh.jpg)
but mine looks different. Below is what it looks like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aw0Ww.jpg)
There is no version number on my motherboard and there is no "C4" capacitor. Also, the component that's labeled "330" on the original board is labeled "470" on my motherboard. It's hard to decide which capacitor to change. On my motherboard, there two capacitors instead of one, closer to the location of the capacitor that needs to be replaced. They are labeled "C42" and "C35" instead of "C4". I do not want to replace the wrong one since it's risky enough to replace just one capacitor on these boards.
Anyone know my motherboard type or version? Also, which capacitor to change?
EDIT:
Here is a better or zoomed in section of the place:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/896Ft.jpg)
As [Trish](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7462/which-capacitor-to-change-on-cr-10s-s500-motherboard#comment11920_7462) requested in the comment, below is also the back side of the motherboard.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oj12r.jpg)
theSealion might be right in his answer and I did a test and it all points to "C31" as he suggested but the problem is that the capacitor is different from the one it is supposed to be replaced with like on other CR-10 boards. I am not entirely sure if this is the capacitor since the type of capacitor are different from the one I was suggested to use. Below is the new capacitor:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4iFm.jpg)
My current idea is to remove the tiny "C31", solver wire to pin 4 of LM2596 and to the new capacitor but I do not want to remove the "C31" because I don't want anything to go bad.
Can I add the new capacitor parallel to the existing "C31" without removing the "C31"? | [
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"text": "You are looking for a capacitor that must be connected to Pin 4 of the LM2596.\n\nMaybe you could provide a bet... | 2018/11/21 | [
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7,468 | I have a WiFi module that only needs two wires connection to work. These are RX and TX pins connected to Asquine or the CR-10S printer board but I don't know if there is any physical or software UARTs TX and RX pins. My goal is to add a Wifi support to the CR-10S printer. Since this is not Asquine and the pins are not labeled, it's hard to tell which TX and RX pins are not being used.
In the image of my motherboard below, any port or pin with line pointing to is considered as being used by the printing software so I can't used them.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGGeo.jpg)
There are still ports or pins that are not used. Can any one tell if there is a TX and RX pin that is not being used from the image above? I need them to communicate with the printer wirelessly. | [
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"text": "You are looking for a capacitor that must be connected to Pin 4 of the LM2596.\n\nMaybe you could provide a bet... | 2018/11/22 | [
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7,482 | I am currently encountering a problem where under certain circumstances, the extruder stutters when it starts a new layer. I am printing on an Anycubic i3 Mega and am slicing with Cura 3.6.0. The problem seems to occur in the main part of prints, as well as in supports. However it seems to only occur after a retraction has taken place. I have taken a video of the stuttering which can be found here: <https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7>
When a print is done the stuttering results in walls looking like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlAZQ.jpg)
Can anyone help me figure out what is causing the stuttering?
Thank you very much! | [
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"answer_id": 7586,
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"text": "You retraction settings may be too high. Direct drive extruders require less retraction than Bowden style ex... | 2018/11/24 | [
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7,483 | I have designed a bread mark and printed it on the Prusa i3 MK3.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qs5PP.png)
I wanted it to have as sharp edges as possible, so I used a triangle:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMTCP.png)
However, it seems that the print cut off layers that are too thin (x-y-wise) and instead of a 1 cm high bread mark, I only have 0.5 cm.
What is the X-Y-resolution of the Prusa i3 MK3? In Slic3r, can I make sure that any wall is made as thick as needed for it to be printed?
I have the default 0.4 mm nozzle. | [
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"text": "This is dependent on the slicer and the nozzle diameter. Typically, you cannot print a wall smaller than twi... | 2018/11/24 | [
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7,484 | I have a small problem where plastic comes out of the nozzle while the printer is at a standstill (normally towards the end of heating the nozzle for a print), and whilst it moves from the line for clearing the nozzle on the left of the bed (Cura) before the actual print starts. This causes a slight problem where the first few millimetres of the printed line curls upwards when the nozzle comes back around again it goes over it but it causes a slight bump that makes a very small (but noticeable) skip or bump in the print on the bottom layer.
I am using the Ender 3 running Marling 1.1.9 with a Bltouch and a [glass bed](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comgrow-Glass-Creality-Printer-Ender-3/dp/B07DSC9TJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543100048&sr=8-3&keywords=ender%203%20glass), I didn't seem to have this problem before I upgraded to the glass bed and Marlin for the Bltouch.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. | [
{
"answer_id": 7485,
"author": "0scar",
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"text": "This effect is called oozing. At the end of heating up the hot end, left filament becomes so liquid that it oozes out... | 2018/11/24 | [
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7,496 | I was noticing on a print I had just done that the quality was not up to typical snuff. I had just started using a roll of PLA filament that I had been keeping on a shelf without a wrapper for a couple months. How long can you store filament before it gets too hydrated from the air to print? I expected more than a couple months but perhaps I am wrong? | [
{
"answer_id": 7499,
"author": "Trish",
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"selected": false,
"text": "In **theory**, most filaments don't go bad within a year. However, praxis shows, that averse conditions can impact th... | 2018/11/26 | [
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7,497 | I bought a few new nozzles expecting them to come with that little tube that comes out of the nozzle. They didn't come with them after all, so I tried to reuse the tube I originally had in the printer. Turns out my old tube is 4mm OD and 2mm ID, but the new nozzles have 2mm holes for the tube to go in. I use 1.75mm filament, so it seems like to be able to fit the filament through the tube would be impossible barring a tube with an 0.125mm wall.
My question is, can I put the tube outside of the nozzle? That is, not stuck in the hole for the nozzle. In theory, the tube would still direct the filament into the right place. It looks like that might be the point of these new nozzles, since it seems so unlikely that someone would be able to stick a filament tube in the nozzle.
If not, where can I find the tubes I need? I've looked in a few different places and I can't find it. Or are the nozzles useless, and should I return them? Thanks for the help. | [
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"answer_id": 7498,
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"text": "Let me clean up a little nomenclature\n=====================================\n\nThe PTFE tube is either a Bowden Styl... | 2018/11/26 | [
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7,501 | I want to extend **all** my CR-10S wires. I have two long wire types: 22 and 18 AWG wires. I've done some research and found the following:
* Extruder heating element: 22 AWG or lower.
* Extruder thermistor sensor: 22 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).
* Fans: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).
* Limit switch/filament sensor: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need
much amp).
Here is where I've problems determining which wire gauge to use:
* Stepper motor wires: ?
* Bed heater wires: ?
What's the wire gauge needed for the stepper motor and bed heater wires? Obviously, the bed heater needs more amp so I expect lower wire gauge. Is my 18 gauge wire enough for this?
On the [Reprap](https://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed#Wiring) site, it says that 18 AWG or lower is fine for the heating bed. | [
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"text": "Let me clean up a little nomenclature\n=====================================\n\nThe PTFE tube is either a Bowden Styl... | 2018/11/26 | [
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7,509 | Here is the sequence of my Gcode, printed in mid-air:
```
Print (E20)
Retract (E-20)
Dwell (G4 10,000)
Move away (E0)
Print (E20)
```
See the path on the printscreen below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbYqY.png)
When the printer dwells it oozes. How can i stop that?
I am using a WASP 3MT, pellet extrustion, 3mm nozzle, Marlin firmware, Gcode done on Silkworm for Grasshopper.
Gcode around the dwell:
```
G1 F300 X-25 Y-25 Z30 E15.96
G92 E0
G1 F0 X-25 Y-25 Z30
G1 F1000 X-25 Y-25 Z36 E-89.42
G92 E0
G4 P10000
G1 F0 X-25 Y-25 Z36
G1 F1000 X-25 Y-25 Z32 E0
G92 E0
``` | [
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"text": "Since you retracted the filament (very far), but stay at elevated temperature for almost 2 minutes, this must be left... | 2018/11/27 | [
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7,519 | So I just got a Da-Vinci 3-in-1 Junior Pro 3D Printer, and was excited to start printing my first model.
When I open my .STL File in the XYZWare that comes with the printer, and click print, it says that the cartridge inserted into my printer in not genuine, and that it won't print until I order a genuine cartridge. What is interesting is that the cartridge loaded into this printer came with the printer itself, so it is genuine.
Is there something I am doing wrong? Here is a picture of the cartridge in my printer -->
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMo0l.jpg)
A Google search about this issue doesn't come up with any results that are of any use to me. | [
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"text": "A [quick search on the internet](https://www.google.nl/search?q=Da-Vinci+3-in-1+Junior+Pro+3D+does+not+recognise+genu... | 2018/11/28 | [
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7,524 | I thought as a fun project to make my own 3D printer out of a normal printer parts + some parts out of old CD-ROM drives that are lying around. The printer of my choice is an HP PSC 1315 one.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aNHM2m.jpg)
But I have these questions:
1. Does this printer users stepper motors or is using a combination of DC ones and some sort of position sensor?
2. What kind of electronics and firmware I can use for this type of builds? | [
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"answer_id": 7525,
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"text": "No, Printers are not good sources\n=================================\n\nCommon printers contain at best one stepper mo... | 2018/11/28 | [
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7,527 | **TL;DR:** I'm looking to change the steps per mm but I'm not sure what to set it to. Do I decide on a temperature and change the rate based on the percentage for that temp? Or is there a more general setting I can put it to? Or is there a different underlying problem here?
I'm running into an issue with my Ender 3 where when I print PLA at different temperatures I'm getting different extrusion rates. I've done the test where marking it at 120 mm and then extruding using PronterFace 100 mm and measuring the distance and this is my results. I did two tests of each to confirm results
* 185 °C 80 mm left = 60 % under extrusion
* 200 °C 31 mm Left = 11 % Under Extrusion
* 210 °C 32 mm Left = 12 % Under Extrusion
* 220 °C 28 mm Left = 8 % Under Extrusion
* 230 °C 25 mm Left = 5 % Under Extrusion
When I feed 100 mm through the Bowden tube without the filament going through the hot end I get exactly 20 mm left meaning:
* 0% under Extrusion
```
echo: Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00
```
I have been having this problem since I started. I normally print at 210 °C at 50 mm/s with a flow rate of 103 % which seems to work well for most prints but on flat walls on prints it under extrudes in the same spot each time it comes around to that point.
Steps I have taken so far:
* Different PLA filaments. All perform the same
* Replaced the nozzle with a new one
* Checked all fittings with the bowen tube system
* Printed a spring spacer to make the spring tighter on the extruder gear
* Changed the Vref from 0.75 to 1 for the extruder stepper
The reason I changed the Vref on the extruder stepper is because the system would click back when printing as if the pressure was too great in the tube. Changing this has helped some of the under extrusion a bit.
So. depending on the temperature, it's harder or easier to push the filament by hand through the hot end. Maybe I need a better hot end?
[Examples](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mTbkn.jpg):
My test print to replicate the issue. The ripple bit is brittle and under extruded.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/udUdz.jpg "Test print - Image#1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/br6vA.jpg "Test print - Image#2")
This was a Prototype piece for an up-sized print I was planning. After going around it under extrudes at the same point each time 210 °C
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPySW.jpg "Prototype piece")
Most of the print is fine just some parts are different. This is an inner wall.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJNnr.jpg "Inner wall")
[Heat towers](https://imgur.com/4THD6eY) | [
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"text": "Obviously, your extrusion process is troubled by a lot of pressure. This can be seen from the extensive experiment you... | 2018/11/29 | [
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7,533 | I've recently purchased an Ender 3 and have had great success with some Cura settings found on a YouTube Tutorial at 0.2 mm resolution.
So then I noticed that there were default settings in Cura for the Ender 3. Except printing at 0.2 mm it selects a 20 % infill, and when choosing 0.1 mm it changed the infill to 10 %.
I changed infill to 20 % and attempted to print this but there were gaps in the bottom layer and it won't stick to the bed. Is there anything else I need to change in the process?
The shape is essentially a cube with a circular hole in the middle, sliced in half. | [
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"text": "Basically you have 2 issues, first, an adhesion in combination with layer thickness problem, second, an infill probl... | 2018/11/29 | [
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7,535 | I have designed this in Blender:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucC7j.png)
The bottom is a regular n-gon with 0.8mm in height. In Slic3r, I see that the bottom-most layer is not solid:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QkC7.png)
The green parts (of the first image) are going into that layer, because I wanted to ensure that I don't have air between the bottom and the green parts. Unfortunately they become printed non-solid / empty.
This does not only take extra time for printing, it's also not what I want. What seems to be the bottom here is in fact the top of something and I want it to be a flat surface.
How can I tell Slic3r to recognize overlapping items and generate them in a solid way?
I have already set the infill to 100%, but that doesn't change anything. The Boolean modifier of Blender is also not very helpful. It creates topologies with gaps. | [
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"text": "Blender is not a preferred program to model solids, it is great though for many other visualizations. Apparently, the... | 2018/11/29 | [
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7,541 | I am having an issue where several prints I downloaded from thingiverse causing my printer to freeze in the first minute of the print. The print head stops, pushes out a small amount of PLA and then does nothing. The control board continues to show the print progress bar continuing.
One thing that could be possible is I am using the wrong G-code flavor. I am running Cura 3.4.1 and I set the printer to use RepRap. I also tried Marlin. Which one of those is right for my printer? Could it be something else?
My MonoPrice printer firmware version is v35.110.2. The item I tried to print has the gcode from this page. <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221657>. | [
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"text": "The source of the files (thingiverse) is irrelevant -- what matters is what the slicing software creates for ... | 2018/11/30 | [
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7,565 | I like Tinkercad so far for it's very simple UI. (I'm new to 3D modeling and very confused by Blender and the like.) However, I'm not using it to do 3D printing just yet. For I'd like to be able to be to slap textures on the models I make and get images of that. What is the easiest beginner way to do that (for Linux OS)?
Alternately, displaying the .obj directly in the browser with a texture would be great, too. | [
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"text": "For your purposes, consider that Meshmixer (free) can open .OBJ files and display them in any position you desire.... | 2018/12/02 | [
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7,572 | I built a cheap Delta printer with ATMega board and 1.8° motors. The micro stepping is limitied to 1/16. Beside a decent print quality, I observe a moire effect on flat surfaces. The moire is clearly caused by a combination of both, the 1.8° motors steps and the low microstepping.
I thought about using 0.9° stepper motors together with a combination of board and drivers which support < 1/32 micro stepping. Is there a comparison somewhere illustrating potential quality differences on larger delta printers and is this the way to remove the moire effect? For cartesian printers I would not bother using such motors, but I noticed that a higher holding torque at smaller steps is desirable for delta printers.
**Example**
Not one of my prints, but this is how it looks
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ao5PD.png) | [
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"text": "Delta bots always need all motors to step to maintain a straight level. [Microstepping](https://3dprinting.stackexcha... | 2018/12/03 | [
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7,573 | I am trying to print my first test but my Creality Ender 3 starts printing near the front edge and within 10 seconds is printing in front of the tray (off onto my table). I really think it should be starting the print in the middle and then never going so close to the edge and even over it
What can I do? | [
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"text": "When a print is not printing on the build platform, you either:\n\n1. Have the incorrect settings in the slicer (e.g.... | 2018/12/03 | [
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7,580 | First post here, so please forgive me for any silly mistakes.
Recently the y-axis (I think, forward-backward) has started skipping forward when printing the first layer of my print. It prints the raft with no issues at all, sticks the bed nice and flat and the raft is perfect every time.
Then it starts to print the actual item, but every time it starts to the print the back right corner the Y-Axis jumps or skips on the gears and makes a loud grinding noise. The amount it jumps varies on the print, but always jumps towards the front of the print. It doesn't matter on the size of the print or the position, it always jumps forward never back.
The printer is a Makerbot Replikator clone, from eBay. The X & Y moves the extruder. I have tried upgrading and downgrading the software (which uses Makerbot software) I am unsure if I can update the firmware.
Any help much appreciated.
UPDATE:
Image has been attached of the failed part, excuse the colour, I use it for my test prints. This is orientation it printed on the bed. First 3 blocks printed fine, 4th one jumped It printed in the following order 1. top-left, 2. bottom left, 3. bottom right, 4. top right.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIkxe.jpg) | [
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7,581 | I am trying to print with clay.
These are my Slic3r speed settings,
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FE115.png "Slic3r speed settings")
Other information;
* Nozzle: 1.4 mm
* First layer height: 0.9 mm
* layer height: 1 mm
* Filament dia: 1.8 mm
* perimeter: 3
When I print, the first layer is printed faster than remaining layers and in the remaining layers, the two inner perimeters are printed much slower than the outer perimeter.
* Video: [print video](https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UE2MFhjTXpVEirsNK3KlALi4Fb5Ca8rX)
* G-code: [gcode](https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GMyNPaX8YiB3-P2UNHGC3gTZC3M3oilm)
Isn't this strange since I give the same print speed for all? | [
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"text": "Make sure that on the Print Settings tab, under Advanced, you have set the Extrusion widths for your custom ... | 2018/12/05 | [
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7,592 | I've been making some ABS prints, but it's really hard to remove it afterwards.
I've read a lot of different ways of removing it, including using the included chisel/spatula, using air duster, 50/50 alcohol/water, reheating the bed...
I've also read about using a flexible bed that can flex it out. I'm eager to try this approach but don't know what magnetic bed I should get that's compatible with it.
But if you have other tricks for it, please let me know. Thanks! | [
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7,597 | A while ago bought a Bowden extruder to replace the old built-in one (It was malfunctioning or something that I cannot remember well). This one in particular has been acquired:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF28s.jpg)
The thing is, that almost a year has passed since the printer did something rather than getting jammed and not work properly. The extruder itself seems to work properly, when I heats up and push the filament by hand seems to pass properly.
When assembled and start to print, the printer at first seems to work, but after a minute or so, it stops extruding (gets jammed or something).
The last time that I removed the filament and I've found out that it was coiled inside (Very strange):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBjnr.jpg)
My first thought was that the filament was thinner than the extruder's specs, but the seller says that is for 1.75mm, and all my filaments have that diameter.
What I am missing? Something maybe that is not properly mounted?
The product is not official, bought on Amazon (I didn't know about e3d v6).
Printing temperature should be 180ºC but I've seen now that Cura sets the first layers to print at 200ºC. Material: PLA
My printer is a [BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos](https://www.bq.com/en/support/prusa/support-sheet). | [
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7,603 | I'm having issues getting PETG to print nicely. I have encountered pretty much every issue because when I fix one thing another issue pops up. I see people saying that you should "just copy your PLA settings", but that *definitely* did not work for me, with issues from bed adhesion, stringing, globbing, and especially issues with the top layers. At the moment I am getting very decent quality prints from PETG, however the one issue that remains is the top of the print.
Infill looks fine, it is printing fast, so that is where I would expect the filament to glob to the extruder. But that happens on the very first top layer. The printer goes over the honeycomb, and the filament gets oozy and starts forming in globs on the edge of each inner wall. This takes a few layers to print over, and even after 5 layers at 0.25 mm layer height it has holes.
**Software:** I am using Slic3r PE 1.41.2, on Repetier Host 2.1.3.
**Printer:** Wanhao DI3 or Monoprice Maker Select Plus.
**Filament:** Amazon Basics branded Navy Blue PETG.
**Settings:**
* 40 mm/s print speed,
* 0.2 mm layer height,
* 70 °C heat bed,
* 235 °C hot end,
* 15 % honeycomb infill,
* 20 % - 50 % automatic fan speed.
I would like to solve this without increasing infill percentage because the parts are already quite dense with 15 % honeycomb and I don't want to waste material and time. | [
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"text": "Five top layers should normally be more than enough to create a seamless top layer.\n\nIndeed, PETG prints a little d... | 2018/12/09 | [
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7,606 | I keep hearing about vase mode, but I have some problem figuring out how to set it up in my slicer; I use Cura slicer.
So, I'd like to get some settings to do it in Ultimaker Cura, using PLA if the material is important, plus any advice on how to properly do it and ensure that the print retains it's shape on print. | [
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"text": "Vase Mode changed the name in some version before 3.5. Now you can achieve this with 2 modes: \"Surface Mode\" and \"S... | 2018/12/09 | [
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7,610 | Earlier today I successfully completed a small print (less than 1 hour) on our Tevo Tarantula. When it came time to print the next one, I started preheating for PLA and got an "E1 Thermal Runaway" error. I replaced the heating element with a backup and got no error on preheat.
With an estimated 5+ hrs printing time, the print got about 1 hour in before it quit with another "E1 Thermal Runaway" error. This is with a brand new heating element, the third in about as many months, and I don't do much printing at all.
Is this normal for the elements to be so shoddy or are there settings I need to be changing? I still have the first 2 elements that I thought had died but maybe that's not the issue at all so I'll hang onto them in case I'm overlooking some code to change in Marlin.
I've tried connecting and reconnecting both the wires for the heating element and for the thermistor. I've tightened and loosened the screw holding the thermistor in the heating block. While it did heat up momentarily, the error popped up again after less than a minute:
```
23:40:57.529 : echo:DEBUG:INFO,ERRORS
23:41:04.974 : PID Autotune start
23:41:37.274 : Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
23:41:37.274 : Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
```
How can I find out what is wrong? | [
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"text": "1 PID Tune\n==========\n\nChanging the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of th... | 2018/12/10 | [
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7,624 | We're printing on a WASP 3MT pellet extruder with PLA. To save time, we're leaving the hotend at 160 °C between prints but realized that the print quality varies, from one print to the another, when using the same G-code file.
Could it be that leaving the temperature at 160 °C constantly creates more fluid PLA and therefore affects the following print? | [
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"text": "PLA starts to change its properties at above its glass transition temperature of 60-65 °C, if stored there too long. ... | 2018/12/12 | [
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7,630 | Is a home 3D printer capable of printing a good bicycle air pump?
I've searched the Internet and there is very limited info on it. Things need to be rigid and very minutious in the valve part of the pump. I could give an example of what I thought in the image [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFuku.jpg) | [
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"text": "depends\n=======\n\nYou certainly can print *parts* of **a** bicycle pump, for example, the outer case and maybe the ... | 2018/12/13 | [
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7,634 | I'm using a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (a Monoprice-branded Wanhao i3 duplicator) and would like to calibrate temperature readings for my hotend.
I used a thermal probe on my multimeter to determine the hotend is running about 5 degrees C above it's reported temperature (setting it to 200 degrees reads 205 on the multimeter). I measured this by placing the thermal problem partly into the hole where the printers thermistor resides.
I use Marlin 1.9 for firmware and ideally would calibrate it there--I'd prefer the readouts to be accurate rather than relying on offsets to compensate. What's the process for recalibrating the hotend temperature readings? | [
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"text": "Unless you are using a calibrated temperature sensor, it is a question what the temperature will be. \n\nActually it d... | 2018/12/13 | [
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7,638 | I tried out printing a "bridge" for the first time using this [Bridge Calibration model](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:284380). The model creator suggests printing, tweaking settings, and printing again until it works "properly."
My first try worked reasonably well, but the underside of the bridge is pretty rough and stringy. But I don't know what a "good bridge" is supposed to look like.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/htfAV.jpg)
How smooth should the underside of the bridge be? Any suggestions for what changes I should make to my slicer settings? Here is what I have currently:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/87qVV.png)
Here is a picture of my hotend on my Monoprice Maker Select Plus, as requested:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxNbw.jpg) | [
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7,645 | A couple of prints after leveling the bed (<10), I noticed some weird sound, and saw the nozzle scratching the build-plate.
What is really weird, is that I noticed (My printer is in quite a dark edge, so the build plate isn't really illuminated), that there were some scratches from a print before, but it worked fine with the prints in between.
So my question is, how that might have happened, could it be also software issues (Maybe some mistakes converting to gcode?), or is this propably purely a mechanical issue?
Furthermore, I'd like to ask whether this may cause any problems, e.g. massively reducing print quality, or weakening the grip of the prints.
I'm using the Tevo Michelangelo 3D, with manual leveling (it drives to the positions, but one has to tighten/loose the screws).
Note that [I might have overtightened the screws in the beginning](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7332/tevo-michelangelo-nozzle-below-build-plate). Another thing I noticed is that the screws on one side tend to be more loose than the other ones.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ROEST.jpg) | [
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"text": "I currently have a couple scratches on the base of my Cr-10. They may have come, for me, from using tape on the b... | 2018/12/14 | [
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7,647 | I'm attemping my first print where I pause the print, change the filament, and resume to achieve a two-color print. My first attempt failed when the printer resumed printing over a centimeter away from where it should have on the X axis. My second attempt was much better, but still resumed about 1.5mm off-target.
Here's specifically what I did:
1. Loaded the STL in Cura, the design has a 1mm "base" with an additional 1mm design on top of the base.
2. I used Cura's "Pause at Height" feature to specify the printer should pause after completing the first 1mm.
3. I sent the print to Octoprint, via the Cura plugin.
4. The pause began and went as-expected for the first 1mm. It paused after finishing the layer, as expected.
5. To switch filament I used the controls to raise the nozzle by 1cm, then moved it to home (X/Y, away from the print). I swapped filaments, hand-feeding the 2nd color until the old color was no longer coming out the nozzle, then gently cleaned up the nozzle.
6. I lowered the nozzle back to the height it paused at (down 1cm), then resumed the print. The printer moved the X/Y back to the print and resumed.
I'm guessing either I shouldn't move the printer head away from the print when changing filament, or perhaps need to re-home after the new filament is in.
What should I do to resume a print precisely where it paused? Is there a better approach? | [
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7,660 | I am trying to get my first layer calibrating done but no matter what I do, I can not get the lines sticking to the bed.
My first question is the distance of the P.I.N.D.A. What I did was what Prosi recommends on [this pic](https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/prusa3d/KtMljQEIWfs5QXJV.medium):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIH7j.jpg "Annotated photo of leveling probe and printbed")
I am using Prosi Slic3r with PLA and all default values. I am doing the first layer calibration of the setup menu and got the lines which you can remove and the last square which the nozzle is picking up so you don't have it on the print bed. The very first line on the left corner is not really squeezed. I am looking for some greenhorn help here. | [
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"text": "Calibrating the first layer height involves two steps:\n\nThe first step, as illustrated in that picture, is to adjust the... | 2018/12/15 | [
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7,661 | I have a Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer (a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6) and out of the box the hotend temps when set to 200 would vary between 190 and 210. I used repetier-host to run [PID tuning](https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning) and stored the last set of values it gave when it finished, however I'm still seeing around 5 degree temp swings.
Here's a screenshot of the temp during a Benchy print from Octoprint:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/I3HxO.png)
I tried PID tuning again, which gave different values, but basically the same results. Is there anything I can do to improve this? The Maker Select Plus I had only seemed to vary +/- 1 degree so I'm assuming this is more than expected. (I don't actually know what the implications are, so I don't know whether it is/will affect my print quality).
Is there another way of tuning (I don't fancy manually tweaking numbers and testing for hours), or if I do more than 8 cycles (the default on the Wiki page linked above) would that improve the accuracy? | [
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"text": "Software\n========\n\nYou might want to look at your firmware. When running a PID tune, the firmware decides on a smo... | 2018/12/15 | [
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7,667 | I'm setting up my first 3D Printer, a Prusa i3 MK2 clone.
When I try to heat the bed, nothing happens. Then Marlin throws this error after a while:
```
Bed Heating Failed
PRINTER HALTED
Please reset
```
In Pronterface I see this in the console:
```
Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
[ERROR] Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
[ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
```
There is 0 voltage across D8 on the Ramps board, where it is connected. When I heat up the hotend, on the other hand, which is connected to D10, I see 12V across the board's D10 terminals.
The bed is MK42 type.
My axes, extruder hotend and fans are working OK.
I previously burned out the 5 V regulator on my Arduino Mega by misconnecting one of the end stops. I replaced the regulator on the board and the 5 V supply seems to be working OK again. However I wondered if I might have damaged the board in some other respect? Or is there a config setting in Marlin I should change? | [
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"text": "Software\n========\n\nYou might want to look at your firmware. When running a PID tune, the firmware decides on a smo... | 2018/12/16 | [
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7,676 | Where is the correct Marlin firmware file and location to add code that I want to shop up in the LCD menu of my printer, and then execute the function I write when the button is pressed?
For example I want to add a menu item that says "Preheat Custom" that is in the same menu as "preheat PLA" and "preheat ABS" and then runs code to heat to values I specify.
*I'm running Marlin Firmware version 1.1.9 on a Creality Ender 3.* | [
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"text": "The answer to your question (baring in mind that the question is raised for Marlin 1.1.9) is the file [ultralcd.cpp](h... | 2018/12/17 | [
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7,683 | My Flashforge Adventurer 3 is not printing properly. Filament feeder makes repetitive loud thumping noise and not enough filament is extruded. Resulting print (if completed) is not solid.
Results vary with filament. Flashforge brand (red) PLA works best. Any other filament fails completely unless I print at High quality, with head temperature at 235 degrees. Nozzle has been un-clogged repeatedly, but right from the start, when feeding filament in, it does not flow through properly.
I had used the included tool to clear blockages in the extruder several times before now, but after posting this question I tried again. Ordinary use of the tool made no difference. So I applied more force, and, pushed filament through by hand directly into the extruder and used a pin to try to clear the extruder. It now appears to be working adequately Not perfectly. I am able to print with default settings. It still thumps -or ticks- a bit. I am alarmed at the amount of force I had to use to clear the extruder blockage. | [
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"text": "PLA should not be printed at 235 °C. If your printer requires such high temperatures to make the filament very fluid,... | 2018/12/17 | [
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7,698 | I've just printed my very first part and it did not want to come loose from the build plate, it fact, it just broke instead.
I can heat the bed up again and work it off, but I wondered if a release agent would be better?
I have a silicon release spray (like those use with molds). Could I spray the base with that before starting printing? | [
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"text": "PLA should not be printed at 235 °C. If your printer requires such high temperatures to make the filament very fluid,... | 2018/12/18 | [
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7,699 | While printing a simple model, my printer starts to layer-shift the build in a direction suddenly. I used the default setting for ultimaker Cura 3.4.1. It has done this same thing for multiple different prints. I would guess it is the software.
How do I fix the issue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVXO2.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDCZm.jpg) | [
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"text": "You have a case of layer shift. Layer shifts happened to me in 3 ways:\n\n1. The movement of the axis is hindered. Ch... | 2018/12/18 | [
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7,707 | Some prints take a long time and, as I'm not in a workshop, I need to pause the print sometimes.
Are there any special considerations I should take when pausing, or can I literally just click pause, leave it for twelve hours or so, and it'll continue without any ill effects?
I'm using PLA at present. | [
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"text": "If you keep the head hot during the pause, and over the print, you will melt the material already deposited.\n\nIf you... | 2018/12/19 | [
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7,713 | I want to hook up an Arduino to my Creality printer running Marlin firmware, such that I can have a few physical buttons mounted on the machine that will execute commands such as preheat, home, disable steppers, and so on, so that I don't have to navigate through the clunky LCD screen.
Ideally it would work in addition to the normal LCD and serial functionality, so it would not impede me from using Ultimaker Cura to print via USB, etc.
What is the best way to do this? | [
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"text": "One option would be to have your printer controlled by an Octoprint server. You would then use the [Octoprint Api plugi... | 2018/12/20 | [
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7,714 | Why is it that if I execute a gcode command that causes the stepper motor to turn in reverse (any negative move on the X axis), after the step it will emit a high pitched whine until it gets another command to rotate in its forward direction?
Executing multiple reverse commands will cause the tone to vary in frequency each step, and always it goes away after another step in the opposite (forward) direction.
Sometimes.
And other times it does it in both directions, but only on every other step. One step +X its there, next step its gone, next step its back, and so on...
Then they also make a different noise when idle, before I disable them with the "disable steppers" command.
What are these noises?
And is it bad to leave the motors in this state? Will it burn them out? | [
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"text": "this is normalISH for stepper motors. they have a fair ammount of current pulsing through them at relativ... | 2018/12/20 | [
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7,722 | I'm working with a project involving 3D printing's terminology, but I'm not such an expert... so I was asking myself if someone can explain the meaning of the "downstream" adjective in this field.
More precisely, I'm dealing with this sentence: "Handle any downstream task", which I really can't understand because it has a very poor context.
I also have this sentence with the adjective that I'm having trouble with:
>
> Confidently send your surfaces downstream knowing your results are usable design surfaces.
>
>
> | [
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"text": "Without more anymore context \"downstream\" could be in reference to a print that would be sent to another machine... | 2018/12/20 | [
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7,740 | The first layer is very patchy indeed. I've calibrated the build plate pretty accurately but even if it was a badly calibrated build plate I don't think it would have this effect.
[](https://imgur.com/S4KsNA3.png)
It doesn't *seem* to have a negative effect on the print.
1. Should I be concerned about this?
2. Is this due to a the build plate fault? | [
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"text": "First things first:\n\nDon't Panic\n===========\n\nYour heated bed is made from metal with some sort of Build-Tak-Clon... | 2018/12/21 | [
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7,745 | Before the print has actually started I have set up Auto Bed Leveling using a BLTouch sensor, during the period that this runs I find that material leaks out of the nozzle and curls back onto itself and by the time it finishes it is substantial enough to cause problems when the nozzle is primed drawing the line to the left of the print. The material that leaks out catches on the material extruded to prime the nozzle, before printing the model so when the first line of the model are extruded to very quickly pulls up off the bed and becomes a massive tangle of material.
I try to catch it my self using various thin instruments to scrape it off the nozzle as it starts the priming but this isn't always successful and is far from ideal. I have also tried adding a retraction before the bed levelling starts suing the gcode commands added to the beginning of every print, at the moment however I find that a retraction large enough to stop the leaking material also means that material doesn't come out for the priming in time so the first lines of the print don't work.
The gcode at the beginning of the print is as follows:
```
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing
G29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
```
I am using an Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 with BlTouch Auto Leveling, With slicing done by CURA 3.5.6
Any suggestions you have that would help to stop this would be greatly appreciated. | [
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7,746 | I have a 3D printer at home, the Colido Compact, and for some reason when I 3D print big flat surfaces a really weird thing happens. I'm using some PLA from Colido too I think
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QOMPF.jpg "Weeeird surface artefacts")
It almost seems as if the bottom layer does perfectly but when it starts printing out the top surface this happens, because the one on the bottom left is in two parts because the upper part is the bottom one and that one is perfectly flat, then I took them apart and the weird thing just stayed with the top part... and also on the weird warps there are bits of brown goo or something? I don't know it looks as if the filament was burned...
It only appears on pretty big surfaces because smaller ones don't seem to have the problem.
Anyone knows what is happening? | [
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7,754 | I printed out this calibration shape from [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594) with an unexpectedly catastrophic failure. It looks like there are *a lot* of things wrong here.
I used the `Normal` profile in Ultimaker Cura.
There's so much bad in this print that I'm not sure where to start.
1. It appears that walls weren't printed at all.
2. Resolution is way below par.
3. Overhangs are collapsing (not sure if that would be expected at those angles)
4. The in-filling is inconsistent and "blobby". | [
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7,756 | Current main problem is that at various points during a print, one layer doesn’t attach well to the layer below it. That is what appears to be causing the artifacts in the second picture below, but the picture may not show it clearly.
Background
----------
I have a Makerbot Replicator 5th generation printer. This is the one that is very locked down. As far as I know it can only use the slicer it comes with, Makerbot print, but I'd be happy to be told otherwise. It only prints in PLA and @Trish gave some good advice on drying out the filament. I've also leveled the print bed. Prints have improved from where they couldn't even finish to now where they just aren't very good quality.
The issue I'm having now seems to be primarily that one build layer sometimes doesn't stick to the one below it very well. Then they peel up and the nozzle pulls them and re-melts them into a blob. I've attached two pictures. It's worse in the first one, then I lowered the first model layer fan setting from 50% to 45% and it improved and I was able to get the print in the second picture.
Any help on what settings I can change would be great. Is this because it is underextruding? I think I'm stuck with whatever setting options are available in the Makerbot.print software.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wJZOS.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Htl1j.jpg)
Print settings
--------------
The default print temp for this printer is 215. This is at 210 degrees, but those blobs aren't actually burned they are a mix of the previous red filament that was on the outside of the nozzle. The travel speed is 150 mm/s, First model layer print speed is 30mm/s, Raft to model shell vertical offset is 0.26mm, Raft to model vertical offset is 0.33mm (I can't tell what the different between those is), z-offset is 0 (default), Layer height is 0.14mm. In the second picture the print was attached but separated easily from the raft.
A couple more settings that might matter is the Print speed: Outlines is 20mm/s, and the Print Speed: Infill is 90mm/s
Update 3/15/19
--------------
I made several of the changes suggested including lowering the temperature, leveling the bed, adjusting the Z-offset, and lowering the infill speed. I also continued to dry the filament in a dry box with a lot of desicant that I dry periodically. The desicant seemed to make much more difference than drying the filament at 50C for a couple hours. Print quality has improved a lot, but isn't great. I'm coming to the conclusion that the filament has been damaged by poor storage. It has been left in a drawer in a humid, hot room over the past summer or more.
I'm still using a raft because prints fail completely without it and work reasonably well with one so I have no problem using a raft. Now most of my problem is blobs of filament that I think are running down the nozzle from the heater core. I may have to take some timelapse video to figure that part out. I'm also having some stringing which may be a filament quality issue and some layer shifting. | [
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7,759 | I have an Anet A8 and I currently try to improve the y-axis (with a tensioner and a frame to support the structure). Now after I dis- and reassembled the y-axis, I get a loud rattling noise when homing the y-axis (and also when moving it stepwise from within the firmware). After the rattling goes on for a second or two, the printer halts and asks to reset. During the rattling, the print bed moves much slower. It appears to only rattle at the end of the axis, close to the endstop, however the point at which it starts to rattle appears random.
I tried a tighter and looser belt and aligning the frame. When moving the bed manually, it does require some force, but it does not appear to be tighter at the back side of the axis. Also nothing seems to block the path of movement.
I noticed that with a tighter belt the rattling starts only closer to the end stop, however it appears like I have to overtighten it to work properly. I got it to hit the end stop this way without halting, however it still produced the rattling sound. Also the y-stepper motor made a high pitched humming noise after this operation.
What else could I check or do about it?
This is a video showing the print bed with the rattling sound:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0Xhz2GtUYQ>
View from below:
<https://youtu.be/oTEuZUWD0ZM>
This is the motor mount:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xmJM.jpg)
And this is the tensioner with the support frame:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wz8u.jpg) | [
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"text": "With the second video and the photos I could identify, that the sound in part stems from the belt:\n\n* It is too loo... | 2018/12/23 | [
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7,765 | I'm in dire need to reprint a small chunk of a print that got messed up during print because the support for it broke which I cannot explain whatsoever.
Anyway. I need to edit the STL file and I don't know what tool to use since Blender is definitely not user friendly for just a simple cut and past.
Anyone got an idea on what I should try to do? Reprinting is definitely out of question since that would take at least another 20 hours, that I haven't got, to reprint the whole thing and I would also just waste a lot of PLA. | [
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"text": "You could import the STL file in a 3D CAD modelling program and edit it there.\n\nTo not give an opinionated answer, ... | 2018/12/23 | [
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7,771 | My Anet A8 suddenly had issues with being unable to heat the bed. After ruling out software issues, I disconnected the connector and found this (sorry for the terrible quality):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WYfE.jpg)
The left most pin on the male connector (bed) is also charred. How could I best repair this? | [
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"text": "New Bed (Connection)\n====================\n\nYou will at least need a new female connector, but as the connector bur... | 2018/12/24 | [
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7,776 | I have an object that has cutouts in it (alignment pins fit in the cutouts). The shape of the hole is a right triangle with the point clipped off to create a flat surface in the deep part of the hole.
When I print the object in vertical orientation the wall in the deepest part of the cutout is printed properly. But when I print the same object laying down flat on the build plate, the internal wall is not printed and I can see the infill grid through the hole where the wall is supposed to be.
I sliced the object with a slicer based off a recent Cura version. I'm using the same STL to print the object vertically and horizontally.
Why is this occurring? Is there anything I can do about it other than printing vertically? (Because I have a need to print the real part horizontally. The part shown here is just a thin test piece.) Thank you
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3p0E.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LB0ES.jpg)
Here is a picture showing what the (Cura-derived) slicer does with the model in horizontally-printed position. I checked the layer display in the vertically-printed instance, and the missing wall was correctly rendered and visible.
I guess this is some kind of a slicer bug.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3hg3.jpg)
Here is a large-scale picture of what the cutout shape looks like. This picture is of the protrusion tab that fits into the hole. But the same shape was used to cut the hole in the object.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/v07oz.jpg)
Here is another instance of the same problem. This time, I made up a simple block component, a simple cylinder component, aligned the cylinder into the block volume, and did a combine/cut operation in Fusion to cut a hole in the block (visible in the STL file). As you can see from the (Cura-derived) slicer layer image below, the same problem exists - no wall at the back of the cut when printing in the horizontal position. If I draw a sketch on the block and extrude/cut into the block, I get the same results. I also tried cutting the cylindrical hole, creating a "tin can" shell cylinder with an explicit bottom-of-the-can surface, sliding the open can into the cut hole, and joining the can to the block. Same results. The explicit bottom 0.5 mm surface of the can disappears in the horizontal slicing position. Strange.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/162io.jpg)
UPDATE:
The test object is just a simple block with a cylinder extruded into the block as a cutout. As simple as simple can be. I have determined that Cura 3.5.0 works properly (Cura v3.6.0 is available).
I am using the Qidi slicer v5.0.7 latest, which uses an earlier version of Cura (I don't know which one; I have sent them an email to find out).
I have determined that the Qidi slicer behaves properly if the cutout cylinder diameter is 6mm or larger. But at 5mm, the slicer will not generate a back wall in the cut. The square/triangular cutouts in the example objects below are all 5 mm or less. My installed Cura 3.5.0 generates a proper back wall even at 5 mm. Therefore, it must be a bug in the Qidi slicer, which uses an older version of Cura.
As a workaround, I will increase the size of my cutouts to 6 mm. When Qidi updates to a newer version of Cura (they are currently using 3.3), the problem should go away. | [
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7,781 | I printed a test cube with ABS on my Ender 3 and after some tuning, I still have a problem I cannot solve. Two of the vertical edges (I believe they are the ones on the X+ side) are slightly squished in. Could this be due to warping or something else? I printed it at 0.1 mm layer height, 235/110 °C hotend/bed temperatures.
Here is a picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A45Rn.jpg) | [
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"text": "I think this is caused by the shape of the hole. The shape is parabolic or circular, this means that if you slice it ... | 2018/12/25 | [
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7,786 | Can I Print models from Sources like [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/) and sell them ?
I will be only charging the print costs and will provide full credits and attributes to the original creator of the model (with links to their profiles) in my web-page.
There are websites like [3dhubs](https://www.3dhubs.com/) where the seller will print any file the user uploads. Similarly I want to charge only for the printing services. | [
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"text": "I've informed myself a bit about this and found out the following:\n\n**It is good that you state the Name/Website... | 2018/12/26 | [
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7,800 | I started a print on my Monoprice Select v2 and let it run.
I'm printing with Dikale PLA at 200 °C extruder and 60 °C build plate temperatures. My initial layer speed is 30mm/s then 60mm/s after that.
Although the Monoprice comes with an aluminum build plate, I put on a [FYSETC magnetic bed plate](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HPXGJVT) which says it's suitable for PLA printing between 50 °C - 80 °C.
When I returned home, the print had been lifted off the build plate. I used a brim and even applied magigoo gluestick to help it stick but that didn't do the trick.
I also noticed it's charred at one corner. Any idea of what this might be a symptom of?
Here's what was printed
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eMLy.jpg) | [
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"text": "You have more than one problem going on. As for the print lifting up, that could be for a multitude of reasons. Clea... | 2018/12/28 | [
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7,805 | I am a physics graduate student and I want to create some 3D models for my crystal samples. We have an X-ray diffractometer in our lab. It comes with a goniometer inside it, so basically I can take as many photos as needed from any angles. (I have included a gif animation made of 10 photos taken by the machine as an example below)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHvM8.gif)
My problem is, given these 2D photos, am I able to construct 3D models for my crystals in AutoCAD or similar software so that I can determine angles, edge lengths and volume more precisely.
I am new to 3D printing section. I just thought maybe someone here has encountered with a similar problem. It would be very helpful if anyone could tell me any Github codes, MATLAB scripts, Mathematica scripts or software that can finish this kind of job. I can try to figure it out myself. | [
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"text": "YES, it is possible to make a model from several shots, if you know the angle of rotation between the pictures.\n\nmo... | 2018/12/28 | [
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7,811 | So I am trying to fix a custom built 3D printer for my institute and am running into a problem I can't wrap my head around.
So the limit switches for Y-axis and Z-Axis work just fine, but the X-Axis does not.
All three switches are Makerbot (3-pin), and all three light up the LED when they get pressed. However the X-axis does not get recognized by Marlin. When I diagnose with `M119` command it does not show as triggered even though the LED is on. All the other ones do.
All three switches are connected to min (X-min, Y-min, and Z-min).
Could this be a firmware problem? Or perhaps my RAMPS 1.4 has burned out the X-axis signaling? (I doubt this because the LED on the switch still turns on).
Let me know if you need any more info to diagnose the problem.
*P.S. I have also replaced the X-Axis limit switch with a brand new one and the same result happens: LED turns on upon activation but it doesn't get recognized by the machine.* | [
{
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"text": "To rule out problem with the switches itself, you can change the Z-min and swap it with the Y- or Z-min. Once you fou... | 2018/12/29 | [
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7,812 | Could you use a 3D printer to make a 3D printer's parts? What is the most of a 3D printer that can be made this way? Could parts that break be replaced this way? | [
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"text": "Yes, you can print most of the parts (electronics, linear guide rails, ball bearings and nuts and bolts, etc cannot b... | 2018/12/29 | [
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7,813 | So, the wife got me a Creality Ender-3 Pro 3d Printer for Christmas.
Assembly was easy, axis movements are all solid... when I go to print the [test-dog.gcode](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2879047) file provided with the machine, it comes out looking... flat.
Not kind of flat. TOTALLY flat.
The Z-Axis motor works - I can move it with the machine's control panel - and it moves on it's own for repositioning of the head for printing purposes, but it doesn't seem to be moving 'up' for each new layer. Layer height is set for 0.1 mm, nozzle is .4 mm. No settings changed in the G-code, or on the machine (and I did a "reset to failsafe" before attempting to print anything).
I'm relatively new to additive manufacturing, can someone help out here?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQRlC.png) | [
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"text": "Check the following:\n\n* Is the lead screw bent? remove it from the assembly and have it roll down a very slightly a... | 2018/12/29 | [
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7,818 | I recently got a Dremel 3D20, and I understand it only takes PLA filament according to the Dremel site. However, I was wondering if anyone has successfully used TPU filament or knows it will work fine. I’m more than happy to use other software to change the temperature, I just don’t want to gunk up or otherwise ruin my printer. | [
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"text": "TPU wants in general two things of your printer:\n\n* A Printing Temperature of (over many makers) 195-230 °C\n* A Dir... | 2018/12/29 | [
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7,831 | Recently got an Anycubic I3 Mega Printer and I've been playing with what it can do, but after a model is done it leaves residue on the build plate behind that is bugging me. Do I NEED to remove it? If so, how? Thanks! (I'm using PLA if that matters)
My Problem:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pupIz.jpg) | [
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"text": "You should remove it because it can and will affect the quality of future prints. Residue can mix up with new filamen... | 2018/12/31 | [
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7,836 | I have a few issues with the blue tape, which I'm trying out for the first time.
The tape seems to warp, bubble and lift from the aluminum plate when it heats and cools and during printing.
I put some clips on it, but not sure if this is standard.
It also seems the print is lifting off the tape itself (bottom left corner). I applied some magigoo glue to it. Maybe I shouldn't have done that.
I feel like this print isn't going to make it...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iM8A2.jpg)
I'm printing with a Monoprice Select V2, with AmazonBasics ABS with 100 °C bed and 250 °C extruder temperature, at 15 mm/s initial layer speed and 60 mm/s print speed sliced with Ultimaker Cura. | [
{
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"text": "My Dad uses prittstick on the bed before the print and the bed keeps the prittstick just abbout the right t... | 2018/12/31 | [
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7,842 | It feels like my print is almost there, I spent a long time fine tuning the calibration with a fantastic set of G-code files from [Chuck Hellebuyck](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA).
I am using an Ender 3, on which I have modified the heatbed to carry a glass sheet, otherwise factory standard. The prints are done on the bare glass. When I printed a window some 14 feet (~4.5 meters) away was open to the cold New York winter. The cooling fan on the Ender 3 is mounted on the right side of the hotend and uses a simple declector, it can be seen in picture 2.
However, my print is not perfect yet. I'm using 1.75 mm PLA at a temperature of 200 °C for the 0.4 mm nozzle and a bed temperature of 60 °C. Out of the 4 corners, 3 printed perfectly, the back-left one did lift.
What do I need to do to fix the bed adhesion issue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLYsM.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NA5I2.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eCuVz.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8Ehk.jpg) | [
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"text": "I work with a glass surface on my machine and use a drop of superglue to attach the \ncorners after the firs... | 2019/01/01 | [
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7,844 | Does anyone notice that when they upgrade from an MK8Makerbot(?) to a E3D V6 hotend that when using the same settings and bed-leveling/z-distance-setting procedures, that the filament is much more likely to be pulled up and bunch up around the nozzle while printing the first layer?
It occurs mostly when printing small details, such as 3 mm bolt holes, and not so much when laying down long lines.
Is this due to the shape of the nozzle, which on the V6 is much more flat when compared to the MK8 which is more sharp, or is it due to something else that can be easily fixed?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/w5div.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iuepN.jpg) | [
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"text": "Turns out this can be fixed by increasing the bed temp to 65-70 °C and of course increasing the extruder temp by ... | 2019/01/01 | [
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7,845 | I bought a 32 GB SDHC (Sandisk) I'd like to use for my Monoprice 3D printer.
I have downloaded Partition Wizard and partitioned a 2GB primary partition formatted as FAT and it still does not show any files.
What am I doing wrong? | [
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"text": "For an SD card to work with the printer firmware [Monoprice suggests to format the SD card to FAT32](https://monopric... | 2019/01/02 | [
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7,847 | I dont want the part cooling fan on during preheat, especially when I'm only heating the bed, it is just unnecessarily loud and serves no purpose at that time.
However when I set `PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED` to 0 it has no effect, the fan still spins at full speed as soon as I preheat either the hotend or the bed.
So why is this setting not working and how do I fix this?
I am using the latest version of [Marlin](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/1.1.x/Marlin).
The only one that is defined is the one that I am editing and it is the one that appears on line ~1260 of the stock configuration.h
```
#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
```
And this is the grep result of searching the entire firmware folder:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJh5p.png) | [
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"text": "*This answer is now obsolete now that the OP has updated the question with additional information. It is left here as... | 2019/01/02 | [
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7,852 | I managed to tear my build plate trying to get some very stubborn plastic off it.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDqad.jpg)
I'll need to buy a new one, what characteristics are important for me to ensure it's compatable with my printer?
I can think of:
1. Dimensions
2. Power requirements
3. Connector types
4. That my printer moves the plate in the z axis (?)
---
*NB* I'm so new at this I didn't realise that this was just a sticker on the plate, so I just need to replace this sticker. However, as a question, I'm still curious as there's a good chance I will break it at some point. | [
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"text": "If your printer's heated bed still works, but the sticker has been ripped in some places:\n\n* You can try and remove... | 2019/01/02 | [
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7,867 | Here's what it looks like
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjFer.jpg)
This is the model
[thingiverse linky](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2991851)
It looks like it couldn't print the edge, but this happened many many hours after printing the brim.
This did not happen with my 1st attempt at this print. The last print lost adhesion and I had to scrap it. This time, adhesion looks good so not sure why this happened.
Printing with Monoprice Select V2 with ABS, sliced with Cura. 100C bed / 250C extruder. 15mm/s initial layer speed. 60 mm/s print speed.
**Update**
It looks like the printer is starting to smooth it out like so. Still not sure if this will lead to an ok print or will fail because of this layer.
And it seems the stringing area does not have a brim underneath it. Did Cura just not calculate the brim size correctly?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKMYw.jpg)
**Update2**
Here's a few screenshots from Cura to show that the model is lying completely flat.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iywA2.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DvtBr.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kc7Xh.png)
I let the print go on overnight and here's where I stopped it
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPNrX.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XRvv.jpg)
It almost seems like the print shifted completely after printing the initial layer. Have you ever seen anything like this or is there anything in my Cura model that would make it do this? | [
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"text": "There are many problems caused with this. It could be a faulty motors, an unlevel bed, a dirty nozzle, or even ... | 2019/01/04 | [
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7,877 | I have a set of 2D pictures from a CT scan.
How can I convert them into a 3D model for 3D printing? An example looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EV9Q8.jpg "CT-Scan of a mouse's bones") | [
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"text": "Using the terms \"convert CT scan to 3D model,\" I found a number of links of tutorials. One of them is described ... | 2019/01/05 | [
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7,880 | When choosing a layer height, I know that often you go as fine as your printer will do for better precision, but sometimes you go a little thicker, for speed, for example.
I also see 0.1 mm and 0.2 mm as common thicknesses.
What are my options here? When I'm working on a part where I want to print a draft piece, and the quality matters less, can I set it to 0.15 mm? 0.11 mm? The Ultimaker Cura slicer I normally use will let me put in almost anything, but what can it really do? If I can use values in between simple 0.1 mm increments, are there reasons I might want to do so?
For reference, I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus with a 0.4 mm nozzle and, again, Ultimaker Cura as the slicer. But more general answers for other printer types and slicers are also encouraged. I want to know about this generally, and not just for one printer. | [
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"text": "You decide which layer height you want based on the quality you desire, but never go over about 75 % of your nozzle d... | 2019/01/06 | [
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7,881 | I have a Monoprice Select v2 that I just bought less than 2 months ago. I've manually leveled it on several prints prior.
I noticed a couple of holes in my print bed after my last print, like the extruder pushed into the sheet really hard. They're both on the same side.
I then noticed that the extruder's horizontal bar wasn't leveled so I leveled it. I did this by unplugging the wire to one motor and modified the z-position so that the other connected side would go up. (Is this the proper way of adjusting the horizontal bar?)
And then I moved the extruder back into its Home position at z-position 0.
That's when I noticed that it seems my extruder barely reaches my print bed even though I have the screws almost loosened to the point of detaching from the thread.
The extruder z-limit-switch (I think that's what it's called) seems to be pressed so the extruder is as far down as it can go. The controls also show that the z-position is at 0.
So I'm guessing my print bed somehow lowered. But I don't see how that could possibly be.
Any ideas?
Here are some photos but I'm not even sure what to show really
you can see the z-limit-switch in the right of this pic next to the letter A's
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj6hS.jpg)
you can see my extruder still has some distance to go before reaching my print bed but you can also see that my screws are loosened as much as possible
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUOdX.jpg)
showing the horizontal extruder bar is now leveled
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RyK5o.jpg) | [
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7,891 | I am trying to print an item with a rectangular grid (using PLA on Ultimaker 2+):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHcqX.png)
Holes are 4x4 mm, distance between holes (wall thickness): 1mm. I am printing with 0.4 mm nozzle.
Unfortunately, Ultimaker Cura generates G-code which prints each rectangle on its own and in a quite a bad way:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7nE6.gif)
The printer head tries to draw a rectangle, then moves in the direction opposite to a last laid line, which with not perfect adhesion of single line messes up the print pretty badly: it often picks up last rectangle side and drags it.
Any way to change the way Ultimaker Cura approaches to lay out the grid? I would imagine that long lines that are connected to other lines would adhere to bed much better than individual squares, but I don't see any options that would allow to alter it. | [
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"text": "This sounds like you have an adhesion problem if it catches laid down filament, you might want to address that first.... | 2019/01/07 | [
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7,900 | I can print a reasonably high quality print, but then there will be a millimetre or two of rubbish.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ppdc.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9kreD.jpg)
This can happen at the start of a print, in the middle or at the end.
It doesn't seem to be bad G-code as I can reprint with good results.
There seems to be a correlation between the bad layers and walls. They seem to occurs when there is a transition to printing a horizontal wall.
The latter if there two images if the tail end of a thirteen hour print.
1. What's causing this?
2. Is it something I can fix or is it that the (new) printer is failing? | [
{
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"text": "One of the reasons for such a defect may be a local decrease in the diameter of the filament. Carefully c... | 2019/01/07 | [
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7,907 | I'm trying to build an assembly with one larger part (about 50 mm x 50 mm), two small parts (about 10 mm x 5 mm) each, and one part that starts with two 2 mm x 2 mm squares that eventually bridge into a sort of flap. The larger part has decent adhesion for a couple of layers, but the small parts are slipping off the table right away and the nozzle drags them onto the large part since it's the last part being printed in the group, resulting in some stringing.
My bed is adequately leveled and can print larger models well so my suspicion is that the small parts are too small for good bed adhesion and need a brim or a raft to increase the surface area. Is this correct? If so, is there a way in Cura to add a brim or raft to the small parts and not the large part? Ideally I would print all pieces at once instead of the large part separate since I will be doing batches of these assemblies in the future.
I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6, printing with PLA filament set to 200 °C at nozzle and 60 °C on the bed. | [
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"text": "*This is a \"No\" and \"Yes\" answer, it depends on the version of Cura you are using!*\n\n---\n\n**No**, there are no... | 2019/01/07 | [
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7,908 | Whilst looking to fix a different problem I had I came across this video.
It's a filament reel holder, but at 02:40 the person uses a mysterious fluid. I haven't seen anything like this before (though had wondered).
[Mystery cleaning fluid.](https://youtu.be/X6ArZeWYSZE "Mystery cleaning fluid")
What practical problems would this cleaning fluid mitigate? | [
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"text": "[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMDDx.png)\n\nThat's... | 2019/01/07 | [
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7,913 | I get an `error: printer halted. (kill() called!` Any time I home my machine's X or Y axis. I have just installed a 3D touch auto bed level sensor, ironically it works fine. I was using Sprinter firmware but it doesn't support auto bed level, so thus I'm using Marlin. I am using the latest version of Marlin and it gave me nothing but issues, printer wouldn't move or home at all. I used the latest Marlin 1.1.x bug fix edition (1.1.9) and now everything is working correctly except X and Y homing, the machine throws the `error: printer halted. (kill() called!` on Repetier-Host.
When I use the `M119` command all endstops (optical, not mechanical) show as open unless triggered, the endstops are working correctly. When I home the X and or Y it will do as it should and stop when it hits the endstop but that is when the errors pop up and the printer freezes/no longer to gives commands without disconnecting and reconnecting to the printer again.
If I home my Z axis it will deploy the probe and come down and touch the bed 2x and no error code and I can still manually move the printer around with the program movements after homing Z axis. I'm not sure what would cause this to happen only on X and Y but any help would be appreciated.
I use Repetier-Host but I downloaded Printrun just to see what would happen and it shows the exact same effect/errors. I also tried the Marlin bugfix 2.0 and it gave the same errors too. | [
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"text": "[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMDDx.png)\n\nThat's... | 2019/01/08 | [
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7,914 | In the context of a personal project I would like to reproduce the appearance of a commercial product of which I send you a cropped image.
I would also like to point out that I do not have the object in question, but it would seem that it is made from a polymer.
The product is a case with an embedded electronical card, so heat dissipation is important.
I'm interested by what kind of plastic is really used here. I plan to have the part manufactured by a company, so I think the method used will be SLS
I therefore rely on your expertise in the field of 3D printing to try to identify the material used.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3WtzK.png)
Thanks | [
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"text": "Is there anything else about this object, but its picture? Softening temperature, biodegradability, is it stiff of ... | 2019/01/08 | [
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7,918 | I've been having some bed adhesion problems that I have been trying to solve by leveling the bed. I think that it's pretty level now but when I start a print the lines seem pretty flat. Is this true? I used a feeler gauge to have a 0.2 mm gap between the bed and nozzle, but the center feels as though there's more space, despite the tape (ie I didn't feel any resistance when leveling the center) so I'm not sure if the plastic is too squished or not.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GKkPC.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SbVq.jpg)
I am printing PLA with 210 °C at Nozzle and 60 °C on bed. I also used a 130% extrusion factor for the first layer on a Creality CR-10S. It did come without a black print surface but with a glass sheet and a roll of painters tape instead, so I opted for Blue-tape.
Also, I see some stringing, which seems to happen with skirts and brims (this is my first brim) and a bit of under extrusion in the center. But those are probably concerns fit for a separate question. | [
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"text": "**No**, the **bed does not look too close to the nozzle**, it could well be that it is **too far** from the nozzle. Ho... | 2019/01/08 | [
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7,920 | After a brownout a print failed and it got the whole hotend covered in PLA. I am now in the process of replacing some parts on the hotend (one of the thermistor legs broke of) and also wanted to take the heater cartridge out. The problem is that the bolt that locks the heater cartridge is stuck and I am now afraid to strip the head.
Is there a trick to remove the bolt with the smallest probability of stripping the head? Is it better to apply heat or not? Should I soak it in Acetone or some other solvent? etc. | [
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"text": "Acetone will not dissolve PLA, there are other nasty solvents that do that, but it is not recommended to go that way.... | 2019/01/08 | [
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7,931 | Today I was printing some parts and I got these burn marks at the corners:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8b3n.jpg)
This is the first time I see this on this printer (Anycubic I3 Mega). I was using more or less the same settings (in Cura) as always, although I was using a new roll of PLA from a brand I haven't used before.
I was printing several parts in one job:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/p56Kp.jpg)
Most of them are somewhat affected:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8MqTq.jpg)
```
Printing temperature: 200 °C
Build Plate Temperature: 60 °C
Printing Speed: 60 mm/s
Travel speed: 200 mm/s
``` | [
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"text": "There are several possibilities:\n\n* Could be burnt material on the extruder getting dislodged when the head change... | 2019/01/09 | [
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7,943 | I have been working on a printer project that basically is a 2D printer (dot matrix type). We are using solenoids as actuators to make impressions on the paper. We are now in the process of designing custom software. But a problem that we have encountered is that we have no idea how to design software as we are a bunch of beginners in this field.
An idea we are working on is based on position-acknowledge technique. In this technique the computer sends G-code to the controller. The controller after reaching the position defined in code sends an acknowledgement and the computer then sends the next signal. This is the model we are currently working on.
* Can anyone suggest any other ideas to make this work?
* Is Our approach right?
* Do 3D printers work using same technique? | [
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"text": "3D printer firmware use gcode that is derived from CNC and no acknowledgment. They send movement commands to the step... | 2019/01/11 | [
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7,952 | So I've had my CR-10 Mini for some months now, and I've been continually having strange problems with bed leveling. Basically, after leveling the bed and printing a part, the bed is no longer leveled for printing again.
Just now, I auto-homed, leveled the bed to where there was a pretty good amount of friction between the nozzle and a piece of paper, and started a print. The first layer didn't look like it was getting squished just that little bit that it should be, so I stopped the print, auto-homed again and checked the leveling with the paper. Low and behold, there was **no friction at all** between the nozzle and the paper. I re-leveled again and restarted the print, and then the first layer went down OK.
So what I'd like to know is why the heck am I having so many leveling problems?!? I've checked to make sure all my set screws are tight, my belts properly tensioned, and the rollers on the bed adjusted to slide smoothly but still have a good amount of grab. Help? | [
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"text": "The Creality CR-10 Mini is a **portal printer** using a **single Z lead screw at one side** of the portal to move the... | 2019/01/11 | [
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7,960 | My ender3 came with a BuildTak-clone surface, and as I was a little too vigorous in getting the print off the bed (I had failed to level right and printed a bit too tight to the bed, resulting in SUPER strong adhesion), I needed to replace it.
Peeling off the black was easy. The plastic sheet that held the glue was easy too... but how to clean up the bed to get the residue glue off and prepare for the new 3M sticker? | [
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"text": "Cleaning up the aluminium build platform was rather easy in a three step process as I figured out:\n\n### Preparation... | 2019/01/12 | [
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7,963 | I just switched to the Duet Wifi board (used MKS Gen L 1.0 before) and now small structures look terrible. From my observations the hot end moves correctly, but almost no filament gets extruded. On the other hand larger structures look very good. With the MKS board the exact same G-code worked fine.
After that I gradually disabled many features like coasting, wiping and even retractions altogether, the quality only improved by a tiny margin.
Example print (the two towers should be cylinders):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jE94g.jpg)
Additional information:
* Printer: JGAurora A5
* Material: PETG
* Slicer: Simplify3D
More info (edit):
* Hot end temperature: 225 °C (for the affected layers)
* Bed temperature: 60 °C (I corrected the thermistor data, it's equivalent to 70-75 °C on other JGAurora A5 printers)
* Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
* Part cooling fan: 100% (improved cooler duct by Da Hai Zhu)
* Print speed: 50 mm/s (50% for outline)
* The cylinder is printed hollow because of my infill settings
* Lubricant is fresh, belts are tightened, so there should be no mechanical issues | [
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"text": "This actually just looks like heating issues. Cura has an option to set a minimum layer time and speed, and any l... | 2019/01/12 | [
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7,971 | I understand how slicer programs create sets of closed-loop polygons to print on a layer-by-layer basis. For a given closed loop polygon which needs to be printed, the tool path generator will know the coordinates and how those coordinates are connected to each other, such that traversing a set of segments in that order will bring the extruder head back to the first coordinate to complete the closed loop.
My question is: By what mechanism does the tool path generator decide which direction to traverse the closed loop? As it is a loop, that loop could be printed "clockwise" or "counter-clockwise", as it were. Any details, and links to further explanations of how some of the big-name slicer programs determine this is much appreciated. | [
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"text": "Math\n----\n\nIn math, there is a way how a path is to be followed, and that is usually counterclockwise:\n\nAssuming... | 2019/01/14 | [
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7,975 | I want to print this [heat tower calibration test](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2213410).
The instructions say to change the temperature every 25 layers. It also tells me to use G-Code command `M104 Sxxx`
First, is there a way to specify this command using Ultimaker Cura?
If not, how do I do so in the G-code file?
I see that the G-code file is just a plain text file with a command per line presumably. Do I just insert `M104 S225` at one point and then `M104 S220`...?
If so, how do I know where the 25th layer is? | [
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"text": "Every time you see a Z movement that matches the layer height (eg. 0.20 mm) you can assume that is the end/start of o... | 2019/01/15 | [
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7,981 | I flashed the TH3D unified firmware (R2.7) yesterday and so far everything works. I printed the 20 mm cube using the same G-code file I used for my very first print ever. However, with TH3D firmware I noticed that the print head was ridiculously fast compared to the previous firmware. The new cube has layer shifting and more noticeable ghosting so I know it's not just my imagination/faulty memory.
The slicer should have everything moving at 60 mm/s but I feel like the printer is going like 80+ mm/s. I only uncommented my printer model and a couple of features of the firmware; nothing involving speed (mainly the mesh bed leveling). Is it possible that the new firmware thinks 60 mm/s is a different speed than the original?
---
Note: This question isn't about print quality. While the cube had flaws, it was just testing that the printer would actually print. And, of course, I can just dial things down. This question's scope is just about the input of the G-code and the output of an actual speed of printer head facilitated by the firmware. | [
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"text": "Yes, the limits are often subject to some \"interpretation\" in the limiting algorithms, even if they are totally ... | 2019/01/15 | [
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7,982 | Printer: Monoprice Select V2.
I've done several prints already and swapped out filaments many times but in my most recent swap, I can't feed my PLA through any more.
I first preheat my extruder for PLA temps (185 °C). Then I press the plastic thingy to allow me to push as much of the filament into the hole as possible. Then I adjust my extruder position to try to suck it in. Usually after a few mm, I start to see the filament come out of the extruder and I also feel a pull on the filament from the top. But nothing is happening now.
However, if I adjust the extruder position in the opposite direction, it eventually pushes the filament back up and out, so I guess the "stepper motor" (is that what it's called?) is working (at least in one direction).
I'm getting ready to open the extruder module up to see what's going on, but wanted to see if anyone had any simple ideas for me to try before I unscrew anything. | [
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"text": "Maybe some PLA is stuck in the throat above the heat break. Can you feed a very small wire all the way through it,... | 2019/01/15 | [
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7,987 | I've been 3D printing for a while and I've noticed that, when printing small parts, my colored plastics (PLA, PLA+ and ABS) have better layer adhesion than black ones.
Did you notice this?
What could be the cause? | [
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"text": "Not inherently.\n\nThere are two things at work that might cause one color to test weaker than others even as its pro... | 2019/01/16 | [
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7,989 | I'm having a lot of difficulty removing support material without damaging the print.
Are there any tips/tricks to doing this or is it just a case of sanding, cutting, chopping and then cleaning it up as best I can?
**Settings**
* Printer: Monoprice Ultimate
* Filament Temp: 200 °C
* Plate Temp: 60 °C
* Material: PLA
* Slicer: Ultimaker Cura
+ Placement: Everywhere
+ Angle: 20°
+ Pattern: Concentric | [
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"text": "Print/material specific settings\n--------------------------------\n\nIf you are printing ***too hot with too less dis... | 2019/01/16 | [
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7,992 | I own a Creality CR-10 (using Ultimaker Cura for slicing) and I am experiencing terrible printing problems.
My problem: I am not able to print anything that takes several hours to print. For parts printed in 30 minutes or so, my printer usually works.
The prints end up like this (unfinished and with a lot of stringing)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyQrG.jpg)
This below is actually the best result I got so far.. (important note: there is no under extrusion during the print, it suddenly stops out of nowhere..)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGeTY.jpg)
(Although I have to use terrible retraction settings and need a lot of post processing because of all the stringing - you might have an answer for that too.. I just couldnt get the 3d printer to print parts properly with good retraction settings.)
**The problem is that at some point of the print, no more (PLA) material is extruded and the printer moves without actually printing anything. The first couple of layers usually work (you can see that in the images) but after wasting almost 600 grams of PLA, I am not able to find a solution myself.**
.
**I have some suspicions:**
Could the problem be the angle, the PLA is inserted into the feeder? (so that it is almost a 90 degree bend)? The filament comes from a spool in the right hand side. But I dont think that this would cause such a problem..
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CHIe.jpg)
Is it a software problem? Here are all my cura settings (I even reduced the printing speed to 30mm/s at 205°C - still didnt work..) :-(
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKcvg.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXKwS.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpbKs.jpg)
Could the length of the bowden tube and it tangling up be a problem? (as you can see in the image below)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2SoCm.jpg)
**And annother important thing: The feeder always grinds into the filament (even at those low retraction settings) and it is always very hard to pull the filament out of the bowden after a failed print. Sometimes its almost impossible and i have to use heavy tools for it.. that should be the probelem**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZnhq.jpg)
I already did some atomic pulls, replaced the nozzle and switched the bowden tube.
**I have a dream: My printer printing a part without any stringing and actually finishing the print. Please help me to achieve this dream..**
Thank you for your help in advance. :)
(and the filament I used, sorry for the bad quality of the pic)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vzH9u.jpg) | [
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"text": "**Stringing?**\n\nThe stringing is explained by your relatively low retraction settings, 1.5 mm is not much for a Bow... | 2019/01/16 | [
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8,002 | I am in college and am doing a team competition to print PPSU filament, and get the best results. This is being put on by the Solvay company, who makes the material. Our team signed up and the university bought us an [Intamsys](https://www.intamsys.com/) [Funmat HT](https://www.intamsys.com/funmat-ht-3d-printer/) 3D Printer, which said it was capable of printing PPSU. However, the company doing the competition did not release the information that the bed plate must be a high temperature to avoid warping (Greater than 200 °C). However, our plate only reaches a temperature of 160. Does anyone know of any aftermarket heaters that would work with this printer?
Maximum temperatures according to Intamys: Chamber 90 °C, Magnetic Build Plate 160 °C, Extruder 450 °C | [
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"text": "If you're a brave individual you might try insulating the bottom of your heated bed. You're going to want to get ... | 2019/01/17 | [
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8,012 | I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhJhL.jpg)
Any suggestions are appreciated.
* Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
* Bed Temp: 65 °C
* Extruder Temp: 210 °C
* Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot)
* 200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue
persists. speed: 100
* fade height: 0
* nozzle: 200
* bed: 60
* fan speed: 255
* flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxVrS.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oLV6.jpg) | [
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"text": "You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into ... | 2019/01/19 | [
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8,020 | [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCYkr.png)
* These lines exist on all prints, PLA, ABS.
* They're 0.8 mm apart [20T 2GT pulley, 1.8°/step motor = 1 line/4 full-steps]
* Start to disappear above 75 mm/s but will still appear on slower axis when printing diagonal lines or curves
* Custom built frame, cross bar (Ultimaker style) using linear rails
* dual-motor (4 total on X-Y) + separate driver (1 motor/driver)
* Running Smoothieware on Smoothieboard 5X [A5984 drivers, 32 microstep]
Tried all these with no improvement:
**TL;DR problem is somewhere between drivers and motors**
* Switched to 6.625:1 geared extruder
* Tried parallel, series, single coil on the 8 wires motor and 2 other different motors
* Enable fast decay mode on A5984
* Motor current from 0.5 A to 1.8 A
* PLA temp from 170~200 °C
* Acceleration as low as 100 mm/s2
* \*\*Changed 20T to 16T pulleys. The pattern scaled down proportional to the change in tooth count. Ruled out mechanical issues. | [
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"text": "This is a great blog post, [Taxonomy of Z axis artifacts in extrusion-based 3d printing](https://www.ever... | 2019/01/20 | [
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8,022 | I have an Ender 3 that I have been pretty happy with so far, however it recently started an odd behavior and I can't figure out what's causing it.
What happens is that the first ~3 mm of the print comes out "sloppy". After that, everything clears up and it prints fine for the rest of the print. (Although it perhaps looks a little under extruded on the top layer)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0UAfD.jpg)
It looks almost like it's over extruding. But if that's the case, why would it only be for the first 3 mm? Then the top layer looking under extruded makes that possibility even more unlikely.
This is consistently happening regardless of what I am printing, the brand of filament (I only print PLA), or the bed temp or hot end temp. I've tried tweaking with the bed leveling and giving a little more gap on the first layer, but that doesn't seem to change anything either. I also calibrated the extrusion multiplier and it's spot on now.
I use Ultimaker Cura 3.6 as my slicer. I tried resetting back to defaults to see if maybe I had inadvertently changed something but that didn't help either.
I have done a few upgrades - Marlin firmware, Capricorn tubing, glass bed, replaced the (broken) plastic extruder with one of the metal ones, new PTFE fittings. I didn't notice the problem until recently so I can't say if it started corresponding with any of those upgrades.
When I first got it, the prints came out beautifully from the first layer, so this is really frustrating me. I'd like to get it back the way it was.
Any suggestions on where to look?
Update: I did some slightly more controlled experimemts and I did get it looking a little better. It does seem related mostly to bed tempurature. The cooler I make the bed, the better it looks. However as it gets cooler, the prints are also starting to warp and break loose, so the print ends up failing completely. I had a hard time getting a successful print below about 45 degrees, and even at that temperature it still isn't completely clean. I'm using glue stick for adhesion and it just doesn't seem able to hold it without some heat. I traditionally have run around 50 degrees before this problem started though, so it seems odd I have to drop below that now.
Also, for more info, the cube dimensions are pretty close in the X and Y, but were about .5mm short in the Z. So the layers do seem to be settling.
I did check the bed temp with a non-contact thermometer and it was consistent with what the printer reported, so it doesnt seem to be a bad thermostat throwing things off. | [
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"text": "It looks like you need to calibrate your Z0 by adjusting your endstop height. It's starting too low.\n\nI think yo... | 2019/01/20 | [
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8,023 | My CR-10 is starting prints, BUT then makes weird spiral pattern, layers go up vertically with large gaps. Hollow infill.
I don’t know if it’s:
- My Slicing skills
- original files
- the printer itself
Long explanation. Questions at the end. I’ve had beautiful normal prints. Then I’ve had these abnormal spiral layer prints with infill issues and spaghetti monsters (the images don’t show but, where the prints pictured end, is not the full print, it did the weird spiral then just stopped layering altogether). I’m semi-new to printing and don’t have too much of a tech background apart from average use. Been researching a couple months, I’ve only been printing for about a week. I’ve had an amazing couple prints. Baby groot was flawless, barely noticeable layers. The test print (a rather thick disk with deep grid marks and a puppy on top) that came with the printer was the same smooth flawless, it wasn’t my first print though. So the behavior seems erratic. The two prints pictured had several successful print in between them.
I do know:
The elder wand file was in several tutorials and was printed successfully. Its in two parts. The first part, which is way shorter and thicker printed Amazingly. The second part pictured was double the height+ and 1/4 the thickness. I even printed it successfully once before going horizontally and flat against the bed. BUT I had to run the print three times because the filament would not stick to the glass. It was just being dragged along behind the nozzle. But I was observing so I ended the print before it went too far. All I did to change this was add a brim and supports. Which gave a “successful print” except the fact that one of the knobs has a flat spot and the support remnants were very noticeable. Resolution was terrible too. Hence why I decided to try printing it vertically.
The bigger print pictured is the base of a hufflepuff horecrux cup, the first time I printed it was with cura slicer, it came out beautifully but the stem snapped right under the base of the cup part st some point, and the left handle had some wierd stringing issues, like 7 pure strands of filament hanging out one corner, and the print failed s fee layers from top. However the file description only had one previous make listed and the thing with the top of the handle and print failed about the same with that persons print.
Sorry for the long post. I’d just really appreciate any help, and I wanted to give all the details. | [
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8,025 | I got myself a Creality Ender 3 and just finished assembling it and I noticed that the home position is at the right instead of the left. It also is about about 3 mm in front of the right corner.
Anyone could maybe help me to understand what is wrong? | [
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"text": "Did you make sure that the x,y,z and other cords / connectors, were connected to the right areas? TO clarify, the... | 2019/01/21 | [
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