qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
8,038 | Is there a way to view more than the last 300 lines in the terminal tab on OctoPrint? Or is there a txt file of a log? Or even a setting/plugin that does either?
I keep finding my prints pausing as if I said to change the filament even though that wasn't set in the slicer, but I catch it long after the 300th line in the terminal so I can't see what OctoPrint is trying to do. | [
{
"answer_id": 8039,
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"text": "**Yes**, you can show more than 300 lines in the terminal; just [disable auto scrolling](https://github.com/foosel/Oc... | 2019/01/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8038",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,055 | When slicing with Slic3r Prosi edition the top layer of most models turns out pretty bad. There are usually small gaps or weird patterns. This does not happen with Ultimaker Cura, it will have a nice smooth top layer. Is there anything settings wise that I can do in Slic3r to get the same quality of top layer as Ultimaker Cura?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGc8C.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbDHj.png) | [
{
"answer_id": 8039,
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"text": "**Yes**, you can show more than 300 lines in the terminal; just [disable auto scrolling](https://github.com/foosel/Oc... | 2019/01/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8055",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,059 | I've started printing PETG recently and I'm happy with results so far, awesome strength and good looking (except for stringing). But I've noticed that PETG prints better with more distance nozzle-plate than usual, and under-extrusion make parts looking better than both normal/over-extrusion.
* What distance nozzle-plate is optimal for PETG? (i.e. the distance between nozzle and build plate during calibration)
* What extrusion percentage is optimal for PETG? | [
{
"answer_id": 8073,
"author": "0scar",
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"text": "I have printed literally kilometers of 2.85 mm PETG filament on various 3D printers, and frankly, I do not share your... | 2019/01/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8059",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,064 | I have a [Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer](https://www.monoprice.uk/products/monoprice-maker-ultimate-3d-printer-uk) and have tried to replace the nozzle.
The nozzles I bought turned out to be too small.
What are the important specifications of a nozzle?
* Thread size
* Thread length
* That plastic tube thing?
Monoprice is very bad at publishing the specs, can I work it out with a caliper? | [
{
"answer_id": 8065,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "What part fits?\n---------------\n\nA replacement nozzle needs to fit 3 parameters:\n\n* Thread diameter and pitch ne... | 2019/01/26 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8064",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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] |
8,088 | Probably the question sounds a little strange; however, I am looking for a filament which is breakable and not so steady and reliable as PLA. I want to print parts similar to the following gears for instance (They are from Lego, a children's toy). [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsvt3.png)
They should break after some time or in any way become unusable after an accidental period (1 minute to several days) of use. Yes, you read right: I want to print parts that are frangible and probably will break! I plan to use Ultimaker 3 as 3D printer. So I'm looking for a suitable filament. Maybe I can merge two types of filament?
Could Ultimaker's TPU filament (<https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/tpu-95a>) be useful for my purpose? Or can anybody recommend me another filament that can be useful for my intended use? The primary purpose is that the printed part is not stable enough to serve its original purpose for longer than a foreseeable time (1 minute to several days). I appreciate your advice and ideas.
---
Note: I don't want to sell them; I want to use them for my **private** project. So please no legal issues. They are not helpful for my question. I don't ask for legal advice. | [
{
"answer_id": 8089,
"author": "Trish",
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"text": "deliberate/planned obsolescence is the term you look for\n--------------------------------------------------------\n\... | 2019/01/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8088",
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8,100 | I made some 3D printed supports for tools, using screws to fix it to the wall, some of them broken because of the screw forces. Is there a way to reinforce only the screw holes where it will have more stress/compress? I am using PLA, Fusion 360 and Ultimaker Cura. | [
{
"answer_id": 8101,
"author": "3D TECH BRASIL",
"author_id": 14392,
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"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "You can test different print settings. Trying to visualize, but I believe you can increase the **perimeter ... | 2019/01/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8100",
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8,105 | Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed?
What is maximum safe travel speed?
My printer is a German RepRap Neo.
I currently use 120 mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200 mm/s?
What would my printer do if I set very big travel speed? | [
{
"answer_id": 8106,
"author": "E Doe",
"author_id": 12934,
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"selected": true,
"text": "Short answer **no**\n\nWe use stepper drivers to limit the current, the travel speed is at capped by the amount of c... | 2019/01/31 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8105",
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8,115 | I want to create a micromouse project for fun that use 2 20 mm x 8.5 mm (0.8 mm shaft) motors. I have my own PCB as base. I want its built-in gears will be attached to two 3D-printed wheels with gears at the back of the wheels at each side. I'm having hard time to start designing the gears since I couldn't find any tutorial.
(photo for reference and not mine)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ady1o.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JM9F.jpg)
My Question:
1. How to design the gears at the back of the wheel? (I use Sketchup)
2. Is 3d-printing such small objects possible? | [
{
"answer_id": 8117,
"author": "Cem Kalyoncu",
"author_id": 8651,
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"text": "Designing gears is very difficult for a variety of reasons. Let me list what you should take into account:\n\n... | 2019/01/31 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8115",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,129 | Recently, at work we bought a Guider II printer from FlashForge.
When we try to print models using a high resolution or models with a too high printing time, the feeder gets clogged. And the feeder is too hot. We have concluded that the feeder is getting clogged because the high temperature softens the PLA.
We check the feeder fan and is working fine. How can I avoid the jamming? Pausing the 3D printer and wait a few minutes is not working for us. I don't know if it is a common problem for this 3D printer model.
**Edit:**
The hotend is an all metal hot end. I can't find more information about the hot end.
In the manual of the guider II flashforge recommend a temperature of 210°C for the head and 30°C for the bed. I have tried different temperatures. The most common temperature I've used is 190°C for the head and 55°C for the bed (I obtain the best results with this temperature).
This is the Hotend used by this 3d printer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrEnr.png) | [
{
"answer_id": 8134,
"author": "Cem Kalyoncu",
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"text": "If the temperature is too high it can charr the plastic, causing jams. There are many reasons for that. If the... | 2019/02/02 | [
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8,136 | After I level my Ender 3, the distance between the nozzle and the bed seems fine on both ends, but moving the bed on the Y axis shows that it's increasing and decreasing for three times, which I just cant fix.
This only occurs on the left side - the right side is constant from beginning to end.
Also I've been using three different beds (the magnetic one and two glasses) to make sure it's really something else.
I created [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqLqTGeljyw) to demonstrate the problem.
I'm sure that this has something to do with the carriage wheel adjustment, but tightening those did not change anything.
How do I get rid of this problem? | [
{
"answer_id": 8140,
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"text": "Your video shows that your bed seems warped somewhat.\n\nAmmount of error\n----------------\n\nAs I assume you did lev... | 2019/02/02 | [
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8,139 | I just completed my first print on my Ender-3 and when the print finalized itself the nozzle didn't elevate itself to clear away from the piece. I watched as the nozzle slowly lowered itself into my print and destroy it. Here is the gcode generated by Slic3r used:
```
; Filament-specific end gcode
G4 ; wait
M221 S100
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G91
G1 F1800 E-3
G90
G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif} ; Move print head up
G28 X0 ; home x and y axis
G1 Y180; Remove Print Position
M84 ; disable motors
M300 S2600 P100; Beep
; filament used = 24040.5mm (57.8cm3)
; total filament cost = 0.0
```
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZncw.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 8141,
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"text": "Your print end code should have read something akin to this:\n\n```\n; Filament sy end gcode\nG4 ; wait\nM221 S100\nM... | 2019/02/02 | [
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8,149 | OpenSCAD has `rotate` function which rotates the body around its origin axis.
Is there a way to specify an arbitrary axis?
For example, this rotates a cylinder around its center:
```
rotate(a=[90,0,0]) {
cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);
}
```
How to make it rotate around its edge? | [
{
"answer_id": 8151,
"author": "kintel",
"author_id": 6785,
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"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "`rotate()` always rotates around the origin of the object following it.\nWhat you can do is to move your cylinder *a... | 2019/02/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8149",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,159 | When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70 °C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point changes to 0 °C.
Is it normal for a 3D printer to turn the heated bed off during a print, or is this a problem?
I have had some parts warping, and wonder if this is a potential cause. | [
{
"answer_id": 8160,
"author": "Jeffster",
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"selected": false,
"text": "That is not normal behavior for the heated beds. I don't have that exact model, but when I print the heated bed ... | 2019/02/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8159",
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8,162 | A couple of weeks ago I have successfully built a 3D Printer and Printed an XYZ Calibration Cube with ABS material at bed temperature 80 °C.
Next Day I tried bed heating at bed temperature 80 °C,
>
> Screen is blank
>
>
>
and it's not heating at all and showing Following error.
>
> Bed Heating Failed
> Printer Halted
> Please Reset
>
>
>
### Specification board
I use a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.X
### Troubleshooting
I searched on Google and tried possible solutions but they are not working.
1. I changed the thermistor and nothing happened, the old thermistor is also showing the same temperature.
2. I connected 12V Supply Positive to SMPS (Switched-Mode Power Supply) and Negative to RAMPS 1.4 and not working
3. I checked the Voltage at heat bed it's showing zero in spite connecting to SMPS
Please let me know how can I fix the problem?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMlmM.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 8168,
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"text": "Check that your heated bed is still working: \n\n* Measure the resistance of your heated bed. It depends an the ... | 2019/02/04 | [
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8,163 | Heads up: I'm not good with electronics and only have a vague idea of it's inner workings.
I have a [E3D V6 Extruder rated for 24 V](https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-V6-Wade-Short-distance-J-head-Hotend-12V-for-1-75mm-3-0mm-Extruder/32810022530.html?spm=a2g0v.10010108.1000016.1.197a7c35uzmRpw&isOrigTitle=true), that i plan to use in my 3D printer. Will there be any problems with it if powered by 12 V? Will it take longer to heat up? Will it be able to heat up enough to melt PLA? Will it work at all for that matter?
If there are any other quirks or potential problems that I overlooked, please let me know. | [
{
"answer_id": 8165,
"author": "0scar",
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"selected": true,
"text": "Electrical engineering can be quite complex, but in this case you can save yourself with same simple equations/relatio... | 2019/02/04 | [
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8,171 | My Prosi Mk3 has been making this sort of rough surface on prints, and I'm not sure what caused this. I am printing with PLA Prosiment with 0.2 mm layer height at the preset for PLA. What is this, and how can I fix it?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRzOM.jpg)
Edit: Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved! | [
{
"answer_id": 8178,
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"text": "To me this looks like your nozzle is too hot. Try turning the temp down by 5 degrees at a time and see i... | 2019/02/05 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8171",
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8,180 | I have a Creatorbot 3D printer made by 3D PrinterWorks. Their website appears to be down, as well as their Facebook page. To me it appears they are no longer around.
I've installed Slic3r as 3D PrinterWorks has recommended in the handbook but cannot download the settings for this from the 3D PrinterWorks website, since that is down.
Does anyone know where I can get the Slic3r configuration file for the Creatorbot? | [
{
"answer_id": 8183,
"author": "Lux Claridge",
"author_id": 13883,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13883",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Looks like 3dprinterworks.net went down sometime after March 2018 and 3dprinterworks.com went down in January... | 2019/02/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8180",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,184 | I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, currently using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 with the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. Right now when a print finishes, the bed retreats towards the back of the machine. I'd rather present the bed forward for easier part removal.
Here is my ending G-Code:
```
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
```
It looks like I need to change that `G28` line third from the bottom, but I'm not sure what to change it to. I've not yet done any g-code manipulation of my own. I don't know what units it's using, and it looks like it still has relative positioning, so even then I don't know it's a good idea to just set it for the max size of the bed.
So how can I change this code to move the bed as I want? | [
{
"answer_id": 8185,
"author": "Lux Claridge",
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"text": "You're correct that the G28 line should be changed. What I would do is the following:\n\n```\nM104 S0 ;extru... | 2019/02/06 | [
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8,193 | Sadly, I am not able to "repair" my 3D printer. Every time, I want to print something that takes a bit longer to print, the extrusion stops at some point during the print (the first few layers are great), no under-extrusion whatsoever before that critical point.
I already tried temperature variation (185-220 °C) with about 5 different brands of 1.75 mm PLA.
I tried printing without *any* retraction, but failed (I also experimented with flow rate a lot and calculated the perfect percentage etc.)
Everytime a print fails, it is a nightmare to remove the PLA filament from my Bowden tube (because it expanded near the nozzle and is stuck in the Bowden tube). I have to pull with so much force, that I already cut myself several times because I slipped off my pliers.
As I know for sure (I already wasted almost 1kg of PLA for my testing) the problem is heat creep = heat travelling from the heat block to the PLA above because the heat break or fan seem to be broken.
So my question is: "Will it be enough to buy a new cooling fan (as the standard fan doesnt seem to be powerful enough)?"
*I have to add that I already bought the original hotend long time ago and I tried printing with the "fan of the first hotend" and with the "fan of the second hotend" (the fan that blows air towards the cold end) so that might not be the problem.*
Or do I need a totally new hotend? (with heatbreak etc.)
My printer is a Creality CR 10, and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.
Or is it enough to buy a new heating block + heat break? (I don't know if the cooling fan is the problem or the heat break). | [
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"text": "To fight heat creep, you must understand why this is happening.\n\nHeat creeps up the hotend assembly (into the cold ... | 2019/02/07 | [
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8,206 | Using CuraEngine with my Ender 3, I'm getting what I'd call inconsistent inner and outer dimensions - for example, a nominally 3 mm peg is significantly larger than a 3 mm hole, and it takes dimensions something like 2.9 mm for the peg and 3.1 mm for the hole to get them to fit. Is this level of error normal? Is it caused by overextrusion, or does CuraEngine run its paths along the curve of the slice rather than offset by approximately half the nozzle width inside the sliced region? The magnitude of the error being almost exactly 0.2 mm, which is half of the 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, makes me wonder if it's the latter. | [
{
"answer_id": 8208,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
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"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Filament expands slightly as it is extruded. Also, the width of the extrusion depends on the volume of plastic extrude... | 2019/02/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8206",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,210 | I've been trying to find a 3D printer filament which would not release any chemicals if in contact with heated water for a substantial amount of time. So far, I've easily ruled out both PLA and ABS, as they're not considered food safe from what I can find. I have found PETG filament, which seems to be food safe.
My question is: "Is there's anything special you'd have to do to make sure the print is food safe, or as in my case, to make sure it's safe for usage in a mug?".
I will be using a steel extruder as brass ones may contain lead. | [
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"answer_id": 8211,
"author": "Mick",
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"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "Many manufactures list their filaments as being food safe, but I would not treat this as \"gospel truth\". Apparently, ... | 2019/02/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8210",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,216 | So yesterday I got my power supply in the mail and I thought, let's check it out!
I put all the wires in correctly (as shown in this YouTube video, [Anet A8 power supply unit fuse blown](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8GhVKG2Nno), I just searched really quickly, this person has the same problem as me) and "BANG", it blew.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBCjk.png "Image from YouTube video")
Luckily the only thing broken on it is the fuse, for which I can get a new one, but my main question is .. why? why did it blow out? Did I wire it up wrong? The 12 V output goes to a RAMPS 1.4 board which is working correctly.
It worked the first time I plugged it in; the little green light went on. The second time a nice "big bang". When I tested it the first time, I didn't add the 12 V wires to the RAMPS board yet. When I did, the fuse of the PSU blew out.
The board is a RepRap RAMPS 1.4, which works fine when connected via USB to laptop.
Upon closer inspection I found a burned out resistor in the circuit of the power supply, maybe this caused the bang?
### BIG update!
I opened it up and flipped the board, and noticed that there was a big ol' blob of tin connected to one of the pins I connected my wires to. I am very sure that this blob shouldn't connect to that pin at all, hence shorting my board.
Is this the cause?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGGSF.jpg "Close up of PCB")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKdWI.jpg "Close up of PCB - Highlighted potential short circuit")
Here is a link to the webpage I bought it from: [Anet® 12 V 20 A 240 W Power Supply Dual-input Centralized Power Monitoring For 3D Printer](https://m.banggood.com/nl/12V-20A-240W-Anet-Power-Supply-Dual-input-Centralized-Power-Monitoring-For-3D-Printer-p-1108988.html)
Here is how I wired it up at the PSU side:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHZxm.png "Power supply connections")
At the RAMPS side:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Od4en.jpg "RAMPS board connections")
This shows the internals of the PSU, it clearly shows burn marks:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EuSfm.jpg "Overview of the failed electronic component in the PSU") | [
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"text": "You need to closely look at how to connect to the output connectors. In this case it appears that you have wired it co... | 2019/02/10 | [
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8,219 | As part of a larger project, i'm trying to print a translucent green dome. I set it up as follows:
* In Blender, create an icosphere of the maximum allowed complexity. Cut it in half and throw away one of the hemispheres.
* Duplicate the hemisphere. Move the second one down slightly and use Subtract, to hollow it out. Clean up the vertex garbage left behind.
* Export the model. Import it in the slicer, scale to the proper size, and export as gcode.
* Print the model with [translucent green filament](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00ZB48IZE) at 100% solid infill.
I ended up with a beautifully rounded dome that doesn't feel at all like a polyhedron, so that worked out fine. The only problem is, it's solid green. The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness, and the fact that my "solid" print is actually made up of thousands of tiny strings pressed up against each other probably doesn't help.
I tried reprinting it in Spiral Vase mode, and while the print turned out to be transparent, it was also extremely thin and fragile, and it failed anyway because of lack of support once the dome's angle got bad enough.
I've been trying to think of how to print this properly, but nothing I think of will work:
* Scaling can make the walls thinner, but only by reducing the size of the model. Its basic dimensions need to remain unchanged.
* Doing the same trick again that I used to create the dome, subtracting a copy of itself moved down slightly, would lead to non-uniform thickness in the model. (Which I already have some of. But when the thickness is directly correlated to the degree of transparency, this is problematic.)
Does anyone know of any tricks I can use to get it to come out properly? For reference, I'm using Blender as my 3D software, IdeaMaker as my slicer, and printing on a Raise3D N2 Plus printer. | [
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"text": "> \n> The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness\n> \n> \n> \n\nThat's exactly the point... | 2019/02/10 | [
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8,222 | I have just built my first 3D printer, and I am having some problems. It is a Cartesian based 3D printer, using Marlin firmware and Pronterface software. My problem is homing the 3D printer. I do not have a probe to calibrate the z offset but I have all 6 endstops. The problem is that the "ZMIN" endstop isn't precise enough and my hotend is always either too far from or too close to the heatbed. Is there a way to manually set the home position, so when I start the printer, It just starts printing and it doesn't have to home again; Or maybe some other way to set the correct offset. It would also be helpful if I could use just the "ZMAX" plug, and then manually set the minimum Z position using a piece of paper. | [
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"text": "It is possible to \"home a printer\" without having endstops, technically, you don't **require** endstops, but it make... | 2019/02/11 | [
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8,229 | My i3 MK3 is printing very well for solid parts of an object, but it messes up with infill.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dc5BL.jpg)
As you can see in the image, the infill is broken into pieces and bends to that the surface becomes rough and the nozzle touches it next time it moves there, which probably does not make things better.
I've read the [Prusa problem page](https://www.prusaprinters.org/7-problems-affecting-quality-of-3d-prints), where they suggest three solutions:
* change infill type
* flexible filament (I'm using PETG, so this does not apply)
* lower printing speed
I'm printing with 20% infill and I believe that this worked before at the same speed, so I'm tempted to say that both remaining options are options, but it should work without them.
It also seems to me as if the infill is thinner that ordinary walls. Is the extrusion speed lower in case of infill? Is there a way of changing the extrusion speed for infill?
Side note: my printer always tells me to upgrade to the latest firmware 3.5.1. Since I have just received the printer back from a warranty repair after the last firmware upgrade, I don't want to upgrade the firmware. Could the issue be related to firmware?
Infos requested from comments:
I'm basically using the Slic3r default settings for PETG. The only thing I adjusted is the temperature, since I'm using HDGlass PETG and there was a recommended temperature written on the spool. Relevant settings seem to be
* Filament settings
+ fan speed min 30 % max 50 %
+ bridges fan speed 50 %
+ enable fan below 20 s
+ slow down below 20 s
+ min print speed 15 mm/s
* Speed settings
+ Perimenters 45 mm/s
+ Small perimeters 25 mm/s
+ External perimeters 35 mm/s
+ Infill 200 mm/s
+ Solid infill 200 mm/s
+ Top solid infill 50 mm/s | [
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"text": "From your comments can be read that you print infill at 200 mm/s. \n\nKnow that 200 mm/s is ridiculously fast (like hi... | 2019/02/11 | [
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8,241 | Fairly long winded, but hopefully makes sense;
I understand that G-code is executed line-by-line, and in the main printing phase each instruction is effectively go to location XY (assuming staying within the layer) at a set speed with a set extrusion amount (not rate, as far as I can tell).
Imagine you were printing a single road width, say 10 mm long. If the single instruction says to move that 10 mm at a set speed and extrude 10mm of material (which is, I guess, not 10mm of filament), with infinite acceleration and deceleration of the nozzle and extruder gears, then a linear amount of material would be extruded per unit length along the 10 mm. However, given that there is some acceleration and deceleration, that extrusion must be non-linear.
My questions are as follows;
- Is it possible to counteract this within a single line of Gcode by having a variable extrusion rate?
- Can the machine do so regardless of the instructions given to it?
- Is this effect embraced somehow?
- Does the need to accelerate both the nozzle position and filament effectively cancel out?
-Would/could you aim instead to split a single straight line of filament into multiple lines of G-code, some extruding (say in the middle), and some not (say at each end)? | [
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"text": "No\n==\n\nG-code is written line separated, starting with one command what to do, then who does it with what factors.... | 2019/02/12 | [
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8,242 | I don't understand what's wrong with my G-code. I have set the printing temperature to 195 °C but when I try to print, the target temperature is always 0 °C and printing never starts.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkB6E.jpg)
I have tried changing material preset to different PLA profiles but that didn't help at all.
G-code:
```
;FLAVOR:RepRap
;TIME:1736
;Filament used: 0.676205m
;Layer height: 0.1
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1
T0
M190 S50
M104 S195
M109 S195
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Print0ng...
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:96
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F600 X90.425 Y93.152 Z0.3
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F1500 E6.5
...
```
In addition, the extruder and heat sensor are working. An older G-code file correctly sets 200 °C as the target temperature for the extruder.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQhqQ.jpg)
This G-code prints just fine
```
;FLAVOR:RepRap
;TIME:4628
;Filament used: 1.44191m
;Layer height: 0.15
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1
T0
M190 S60
M104 S200
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Print0ng...
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:80
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F4800 X72.96 Y99.484 Z0.3
;TYPE:SKIRT
---
```
---
*Note, I have never modified the firmware or changed anything except what I can change with the frontpanel.* | [
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"text": "There is nothing wrong with the G-code, `M109 S195` sets and waits for the temperature to reach the set point. There ... | 2019/02/12 | [
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8,252 | Kicked off the second long print in a series (printing Lack enclosure components). First 10 hour print was flawless. Started this one, saw the first layer laid down well, went to bed. Woke up to this (you can see the successful prints in the background):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYYcU.jpg)
The whole heater block and nozzle is entombed in PLA. The leads to the heater and the thermistor are too. I'm assuming there's no solvent for this, and I'm better off just buying a new hot end.
Thoughts? | [
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"text": "Yes\n---\n\nI had a somewhat similar clog once, and I could fix it back up. However, it is a lot of work.\n\nHobbyist ... | 2019/02/12 | [
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8,263 | 
I have only been able to get my prints this far. They just can’t stop skipping pulling material up towards the nozzle which then melts pulls of another random bit. At first I thought it was motor skipping, so I strengthened the spring, but even after that and calibrating the bed, I couldn’t figure out exactly how to fix this issue. Hopefully someone has some idea what is wrong. | [
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"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There w... | 2019/02/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8263",
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8,266 | Octoprint warns me that the objects do not fit into the print volume. I noticed that this happens after a power-off cycle. Since I was overly anxious until today, I always uploaded the GCode file again and it didn't complain any more.
Of course, always uploading the files again is also error prone. So today I gave it a try and simply started to print the object. As far as I can tell, it prints nicely.
>
> Image: Octoprint saying something like "Object does not fit into print volume" in German
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NiFh.png)
**Is this a known bug in OctoPrint? Are my files really damaged after a power off cycle?**
The values (0.00, -3.00, 0.00) seem to be constant in this error message, no matter what object I want to print.
I'm using OctoPrint in the PrusaPrint flavor and I'm running version 1.3.10 (hopefully a recent version, since I usually update). I generate the G-Code with Slic3r. | [
{
"answer_id": 8267,
"author": "Mad Scientist",
"author_id": 167,
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"selected": true,
"text": "That's the purging that Slic3r PE adds, the broad line of filament at the edge of the sheet. That is outside the... | 2019/02/13 | [
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8,268 | Flsun 3D Cube; Marlin 1.1.1; main board: Makerbase MKS Gen\_L V1.0; running from either Repetier or OctoPrint.
I was recently obliged to replace the main board when it stopped powering the heated bed. I got the new main board - same make, version, etc - got everything setup just as it was before, but the bed still doesn't heat. Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts, whether using G-code from the terminal (in both Repetier and Octoprint), G-code in the print file, or the control panel on the front of the printer. The thermistor works: if I shine a heat lamp on the bed, it registers the temp change.
Bad board? Something in the Merlin config I missed? Is the board smart enough to not power it on if the bed heater itself is bad? | [
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"text": "Considering:\n\n> \n> Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts\n> \n> \n> \n\nthis implies that \n\... | 2019/02/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8268",
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8,271 | When double-probing, sometimes the BLTouch will hit the bed before the z-axis goes down:
1. The BLTouch deploys
2. The bed goes up
3. The sensor triggers
4. The BLTouch stows
5. The BLTouch deploys and crashes the bed before the z-axis goes down for the second probe
It happens only on the second probe of double-probing (slow speed) - the bed can't move out of the way fast enough.
This happens in 2/16 probe points.
*Probe Accuracy Test result:*
* *Mean: 0.023075 mm*
* *Min: 0.018 mm*
* *Max: 0.027 mm*
* *Range: 0.008 mm*
* *Standard Deviation: 0.002584 mm* | [
{
"answer_id": 8362,
"author": "aaron elsey",
"author_id": 14671,
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"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "This sounds like the firmware setting for your BLtouch is not set up properly. Look at the line in Config H w... | 2019/02/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8271",
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8,280 | What are the best settings for Ultimaker Cura to have support material that's easy to remove for my Anet A8. I have printed an object with two different spools of PLA (same manufacturer just different color). The black print was printed with 200 °C, the grey one with 210 °C both a flow of 100 %. Thee black print seems like it has a little over-extrusion while the grey print has some under-extrusion artifacts despite the higher printing temperature. The grey support was really hard to remove and looks super messy the black one not so much...
What would be better settings?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/biydn.jpg)
Could it be that the material is so much different despite same manufacturer? The black one seems to flow much better than the grey one. Both have suggested temperature of 210 °C
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/s20fN.jpg)
BTW the thing is 33x25 mm in size. It's rather tiny that makes printing it somewhat awkward...
I have finished another print with a brim and a different support setting (Cross with 50 %) and at 195 °C and an infill rate of 100 %. The support came off much better, the under-extrusion is minimal on the layers however for some reason the top layer does get messed up with open spots and the little nob at the corner was just a a mere stringy stumb that fell off instantly and the walls of the holes came out spongy while the layers of the ring and the long side are smooth and fine...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rye9r.jpg) | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "From the picture, I suggest printing with 200 °C, as the grey print lost its cohesion at a higher temperature.\n\nWhy... | 2019/02/15 | [
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8,296 | For a while now, my AmazonBasics PETG filament has been working like a charm. Now, it is balling up on my nozzle. I've tried slowing it down, re-leveling the bed, etc. I don't want to go through the hassle of replacing my nozzle with a Micro-Swiss all metal 0.4 mm nozzle. I've tried the other extruder which I know works with PLA, but same results. I'm using a Flashforge Creator Pro(2016). | [
{
"answer_id": 8364,
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"selected": false,
"text": "PETG does this. PETG is like glue when soft this is why when you level the bed you have to add an additional ... | 2019/02/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8296",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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8,301 | First, I'm using Linux Mint 18.3 (Sxfvii). Until now, I've been using OpenSCAD with the GUI and never experienced issues. Now I try to start OpenSCAD from the command line, but it always opens an empty file, even if a file with the specified name exists.
Since I have a rather big script, I'd like to generate the STL's via the CLI. Due to this error, I can not even do any tests for parameter passing.
What I'd like to do is to issue a command (flom the command line or in a shell script) that says "Set objectID to 1, render and export the result to stl".
Here is my M(N)WE:
```
// test.scad
objectID = 2;
if (objectID == 1)
difference(){
cylinder(d=20, h=50, center=true);
cylinder(d=16, h=50.2, center=true);
}
else if (objectID == 2)
difference(){
cube(50, center=true);
cube([35,35,70], center=true);
}
```
Any help will greatly be appreciated. | [
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"text": "You can specify variable values from command line using:\n\n```\n\nopenscad ...\\\n ... \\\n ... | 2019/02/19 | [
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8,318 | My model layers are printing much as I expect but the parts when removed from the plate are very soft and flexible and fail to harden any further in sunlight or UV lamplight. A tall or slender part will bend and distort under its own weight while printing. I am using LCD-T resin, I have increased time and reduced thicknesses and am now using 0.04 mm layers at 20 s and 255 brightness with no improvement.
Can anyone suggest what I need to change? | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "You can specify variable values from command line using:\n\n```\n\nopenscad ...\\\n ... \\\n ... | 2019/02/21 | [
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8,328 | Here is an extreme example of notches caused by the printer. They go along all sides but are the strongest on the Y faces. They also happen quite randomly sometimes they are tiny sometimes they are strong.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQ7Sr.jpg)
I have tightened the belts already and while that reduced the ghosting on the X face a lot, it did nothing on the Y and actually never helped with the notches. This test cube has notches and ripples too but not that strong (the skirting on the bottom of that cube is my fault I set the bed level a little too low).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJDG4.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/968jC.jpg)
All models have been sliced with Ultimaker Cura and printed on an Anet A8. Flow = 110 %, layer height of 0.1 mm for the first example and 0.2 mm for the cube, printing temperature = 195 °C, no change on jerking and acceleration from default settings. Cube size = 20x20x20 mm.
The printer has frame support <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959> but no other upgrades yet. | [
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"selected": true,
"text": "I see two problems with your printer: your filament seems to overheat in some areas, and you overextrude a little. My ... | 2019/02/23 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8328",
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8,334 | I have an issue with my Anet A8 printer and how it interlocks with Ultimaker Cura.
I want to print this file named `Loki_hörner_v2.stl`and Cura slices it fine, but when it comes to printing all the preheat happens, but then it stops, not going on at all. What might be wrong here? | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "### Avoid naming `.gcode` files with non-ASCII characters\n\n*(this includes [EASCII](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E... | 2019/02/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8334",
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8,343 | I have only just set up my Anet A6 today. I am trying to print a calibration box, but the print is moving around the bed while trying to print. Any ideas how to fix this? The documentation is very vague.
Basically I am very new to 3D printing. I purchased an Anet A6 and have set it up stock. I am trying to just print the box directly from the demo models on the SD card. I'm using the standard filament that comes with the printer. I'm not sure what type it is.
All settings are default. | [
{
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"selected": false,
"text": "If the printed material moves with the nozzle, you might have several problems at hand, e.g.:\n\n* adhesion,\n* nozzl... | 2019/02/25 | [
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8,350 | I'm currently trying to implement a data collector on my Replicator+ by utilizing JSON-RPC. Is there an **official** reference for this? MakerBot used to host a [wiki site](http://wiki.makerbot.com/), but that seems to be gone for their "troubleshooting" pages. | [
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"text": "The Mystery of Makerbot-Wiki\n----------------------------\n\nAccording to the Wayback machine, the wiki.makerbot.com... | 2019/02/26 | [
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8,368 | So I know there have been several clicking Extruder threads but have not found any solutions to the one I am having.
Background:
I have a custom Prusa like 3d printer fitted with an MKS board (v1.5) and an MK3 Extruder.
The issue:
**While i can extrude fine when ordering some extrusion, as soon as i start to print an object the extruder just starts "clicking".**
What I have tried so far:
1. Changing motors: I have tried using a new motor which I know it
works and the problem persists.
2. I have adjusted the stepper driver voltages, and the problem
persists.
3. I have changed the PSU and the problem persists.
4. Changing the whole board: I have changed the whole board with a
brand new one and the problem persists.
I am out of options here. So now the only logical explanation is that the both boards (the old and new) have exactly the same problem, i.e. the extruder stepper driver is bad in some way. Yet again, it works fine when simply extruding...
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks. | [
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"text": "The Mystery of Makerbot-Wiki\n----------------------------\n\nAccording to the Wayback machine, the wiki.makerbot.com... | 2019/02/28 | [
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8,369 | I am using a Flash Forge Creator, and when I print big parts (only in this case) I have about 25% of the bottom of the printed object sticking very hard to its support layer. And I spend a lot of time removing it with a cutter.
Is there any clue or good practice to avoid that?
I use ReplicatorG for my printing settings. | [
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"text": "According to the manufacturer:\n\n> \n> ... you are able to choose your favorite software such as\n> FlashPrint, Sim... | 2019/02/28 | [
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8,373 | I'm struggling with an upgrade I made to my Creality CR-10. I upgraded the extruder to an E3D V6 hotend. The extruder mount and cooling fans are installed and working, however, I'm doing something wrong with installing the bowden tube into the hotend. Inevitably after I print a few layers, the extruder jambs and the issue is always the same: the bowden tube has backed itself out a few tenths of a millimeter, and the filament has mushroomed into the vacant space and hardened so that the filament cannot go forward or backwards.
I've tried several things to fix the issue including:
* Trying various pneumatic fittings from various suppliers
* Recutting the end of the bowden tube to attempt to make it more flush
* Replacing the bowden tube
* Three different E3D heat-breaks from different supplier
* Various ways of inserting the bowden tube including: pushing it after the fitting was screwed in, pushing it into a fitting that was back out a couple turns and then screwing the fitting in
The only thing that has (partially) worked was when I would ductape and hot-glue the bowden tube into the fitting so it couldn't back out. However, since I'm still tweaking things, I inevitably have to disassemble things and I'm back to square one.
I'm trying to figure out what mistake I am making to keep causing this issue. As an example, originally I used the pneumatic fittings wrong and thought I was supposed to pull the plastic part out to release the tube, rather than simply pushing it in to release the tube. (Needless to say, I wrecked a lot of fittings that way.)
What else might I be doing wrong to keep causing this issue? What are other culprits to this issue happening repeatedly? Are there firmware settings that may help (or be aggravating the issue)? | [
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"text": "This sounds more like a problem with heat creep. When you installed the new hotend, did you reuse the old cooling... | 2019/02/28 | [
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8,380 | Recently started using my kit Prosi I3 Mk3 and noticed that with large horizontal surfaces a wrinkling pattern is emerging.
As you can see in the image the wrinkles seem to run parallel, the surface is 10 mm above the build plate with all bridges fully supported.
Has anyone seen this before? All other areas seem to be doing well.
This print uses PLA filament @ 235 °C hotend temperature and clearly shows a wrinkled pattern on the top layer
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8luU.jpg "Print showing wrinkled top layer print issue")
---
If it helps, I haven't changed the settings from the normal Prosi Slic3r 0.15 profile.
*The problem reduced to an acceptable level by reducing the temperature to 205 °C but keeping the fan speed 100 %, I am printing PLA. I might reduce the fan speed if I feel troubled by the result.* | [
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"text": "Might just be that you are bridging without collapsing but still have some visible sag. Things to try:\n\n1) ... | 2019/03/01 | [
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8,382 | One thing I never understood is the so-called **Extrusion Multiplier (EM)** or **Flow** setting in slicers like Simplify3D (S3D) or CURA.
The description for this setting reads...
* S3D: *Multiplier for all extrusion movements (...)*
* CURA: *The amount of material extruded is multiplied by this value. (...)*
I always believed that this parameter is just an ugly way to fix an underlying miscalculation or misconfiguration, because using it feels like doing a calculation, getting the wrong result and "correcting" it afterwards by a multiplier - *isn't that cheating*?
---
But, recently I thought a bit harder about this setting, now I am not sure anymore. One of the main reasons is, that S3D suggests different values for the EM, depending on the type of plastics used, **0.9 for PLA** and **1.0 for ABS**.
This somehow implies that there is a *physical property* that justifies the EM, but I cannot think of one because 1 m feeded would lead to 1 m extruded - no matter what kind of platics used, right? | [
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8,388 | I bought an Ender 3, and after assembling it following the description and some YouTube videos and after correct leveling, I printed the test dog gcode on the micro SD card that comes with the printer. PLA 1.75 mm. Attached the image of the printing result. What went wrong? I didn't change or modify any settings what so ever, I just assembled the printer, and printed the test dog. Please help me, I am a beginner in 3D printing.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CisP7.jpg) | [
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8,397 | I am looking for the temperature rating for hardboard. I want to use that as the base for my printer enclosure.
It has proven incredible hard get a ball-park figure from Google.
So, what is the maximum safe temperature for a hardboard panel at long term? (considering a print job can easily take 6 hours).
PS: if you have used a hardboard to build your enclosure, your experience might be helpful. | [
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"text": "Hardboard is called *Masonite* here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up ... | 2019/03/03 | [
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8,406 | Sometimes my meshes turn out with artifacts Which can be seen in the bottom image. What is the cause? The first image shows my mesh which its generated from.
I've tried multiple slicers. This tends to occur sometimes.
Any help appreciated. Is there something going over my head???
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/neQxc.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/W19Y7.png) | [
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8,430 | I want to 3d print my own icing smoothers, but I'm not sure if its safe to have plastic from a 3D printer in contact with cake icing. Is there any harm in this? | [
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"text": "Only certain plastics are safe enough to be used to contain or manipulate food. ABS and PET-G are such materials... | 2019/03/08 | [
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8,439 | I've been using my Ender 3 for about four months now and it's been working wonderfully. The print quality is amazing and all the prints are very strong. Then about three weeks ago, my entire system crashed while Ultimaker Cura was open and it lost the profile for my 3D printer. I recreated the profile to the best of my ability with other people's working profiles online, but none of them worked right. I've been getting severe under extrusion in all my prints, and they're incredibly fragile. For now, I've just been printing a 1"x1"x1" test cube. I've tried many steps from other people's posts online to fix the problem, including:
1. Raising the print temperature for PLA to 200 °C.
2. Checking the extruder for signs of too little tension or too much tension. I checked, and the PLA has light tooth imprints on it, and no grinding or damage to the filament.
3. Clearing out the extruder. I disassembled the whole extruder assemble, and flushed all the plastic from each part with a heat gun, and metal pick, and then tried reprinting, but it didn't work.
4. Trying a newer Ultimaker Cura version. At the time, I was using Ultimaker Cura 3.1 and hadn't updated because it was working well. I then tried the newest stable release of Ultimaker Cura 3.6, with a few different profiles, and then I also tried the beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.0, but none of these worked.
5. Increasing the extrusion rate. I incrementally increased the extrusion rate from 100 % all the way up to 130 %. The prints looked a little better and were a lot stronger, but this still didn't fix it.
6. Trying a different slicer. I then downloaded Slic3r and created a new profile in that. The prints turned out a lot better, but there was still significant under extruding.
7. Checking the filament tube for any burns or damage, and ensuring it's inside the extruder assembly all the way.
If anyone can help me figure out what's going on with my printer, I'd really appreciate it!
Here are some pictures of the prints I've been getting:
These were made in Ultimaker Cura with different small changes to the profile made
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZDWV.jpg)
These were made in slic3r with a flow rate adjusted up to 130%
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rV2sO.jpg)
These were prints I made before I lost all my settings in Ultimaker Cura.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7hie.jpg)
Here's some of the material I read/watched and checked before posting myself:
* [I am experiencing some severe under extrusion](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2931/i-am-experiencing-some-severe-under-extrusion)
* [Sudden underextrusion on Ender3](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6807/sudden-underextrusion-on-ender3)
* [r/3DPrinting: Under extrusion on Ender 3](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8vxttn/under_extrusion_on_ender_3_sharing_my_mistake_and/)
* [Fixing a Filament Flow Problem on CR-10 mini, CR-10 or Ender 3 by CHEP](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x35aWmnZ_A0)
Edit: Here's my printer profile:
[Ender 3 Profile Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sn2d9IWmpEiSsuOhOJTkYu7RPEc8xjO1/view?usp=sharing) | [
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8,443 | As an electrician newbie I have a question..
Short question
--------------
My power plug is attached to the wall outlet and three wires are at the end of it.. the blue, the brown and the green/yellow oen.
How to determine which is the live, zero and ground wire WITHOUT depending on the colouring?
I want to know this to always be able to check the wiring, if I don't trust it.
Also, I have these sub questions that follow from my situation:
* Why does the test screwdriver lit up when connected to the apparant zero line?
* How can I determine the live/zero line using a multimeter
Situation
---------
My tools:
* a test screw driver
* a multimeter
* the ANET A6 manual
In the manual it states that
* brown is the live wire
* blue is the zero wire
* green/yellow is the ground wire
I know that in some countries this colour coding is the standard and can be trusted. I just want to be able to check it.
So, my first hypothesis would be.. if I put the test screw driver on the live (brown) wire, lay my thumb on the end, the internal bulb would glow.
This did not happen.
It did happen when I put it on the zero (blue) wire. So I am a bit confused by this.
My second trick was using the multimeter. Using the positive and negative probes to determine the polarity and therefore decide how the current was flowing.
But there was no sign of polarity... duh.. because I was of course on AC, which is always Alternating.. hence no sign information from a multimeter.
So, how CAN I use a multimeter to determine the live/zero line? Maybe measure the current from live/zero to ground? Is that a safe option?
PS: my first post on this forum.. so please correct me where needed | [
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8,447 | Over the last two days I have tried everything I could come up with to fix the following issues.
It all started with bad bed adhesion.(pic.1) Solutions for these problems are readily available, so I calibrated my Z-axis (did the whole wizard from start to finish again) and started a calibration print over the whole buildplate, getting an interesting result.(pic.2) As you can see some area's are squashed nicely whilst others come off directly.
I then started looking for alternative Z-levelling solutions and came across an alternative calibration file (link1), at first glance the results seemed allright, -0,8mm seem to provide the best results (pic.3) however notice the darkened area to the left (could be the high temp of this test? 225c?).
To validate the number I did a full print on -0,8 and this is where it gets weird, the result shows a non uniform transparancy (pic.4) the mechanical properties are also a lot less. I used my caliper to check the printer and all seems to be well within expected ranges.
The bed is also flat, checked with a ruler for deformaties.
Printing with the first spool of Prusa fillament, do notice some changes in the Z-level calibration print, the edges now bend upwards, this is done with the same Gcode and spool as previous (pic.5).
Any advice on what to do next?
Printing on 210c with fan off for the first layer, test square on 225c, all PLA.
Cleaned the bed with Acetone (99% pure) before each attempt.
Picture 1:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEr9G.jpg)
Picture 2:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jh52H.jpg)
Picture 3:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4wtl.jpg)
Picture 4:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUwgq.jpg)
Picture 5:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqd5r.jpg)
EDIT: So Mucc mentioned cleaning the nozzle which helped with the inconsistent first layer. In the end it was me being unaware that Aceton doesn't help with grease, a thorough scrubbing of the buildplate with soap and really hot water helped.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Speny.jpg) | [
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8,452 | I am new here and would like to work on a project to 3D print a precision prototype. What is the most affordable way to do it? How do I go about it? | [
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8,455 | I'm using IdeaMaker for slicing my print objects. IdeaMaker start strings have a >T0< standing alone on one line and then >T1< on the next line. What does this accomplish? | [
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8,461 | My Anet A8 reads as 120ish degrees Celsius, but it is set to 200 degrees. I don't know if it is reading the wrong temperature because it still pushes out plastic when I force it. It will climb up and then go back down. I don't know if the hot end it broke or if the thermistor is broke. | [
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"text": "You are sitting on a fire risk!\n-------------------------------\n\nIf you are using the stock/original firmware, you... | 2019/03/14 | [
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8,466 | What is Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) and why should I enable it?
How does one do so in Marlin? | [
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8,474 | I've recently acquired a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and am having difficulty printing with ABS. The initial layers seem to lay and stay pretty well, though after a few more moments, one side will peel up from the heated platform. I'd like to know if anyone has optimal and tested temperatures for the use of ABS on my printer for the nozzle and platform?
I've used FlashPrint for slicing my objects using the following options:
* Supports: Disable,
* Raft: enable,
* Resolution: Standard,
* Layer Heights: 0.18 mm,
* First Layer Height: 0.27 mm,
* Perimeter Shells: 2,
* Top Solid Layers: 4,
* Bottom Solid Layers: 3,
* Fill Density: 15 %, Hexagon, Every 2 Layers,
* Print Speed: 60 mm/s,
* Travel Speed: 80 mm/s,
* Extruder: 225 °C,
* Platform: 70 °C,
* Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic,
* Nozzle Dia.: 0.4 mm | [
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8,482 | I have three stepper motors.
One Nema 17 - 2.4 ohm, the second smaller noname from color printer - 9.5 ohm and third the smallest noname from cdrom - 10.5 ohm.
I have connected them to arduino mega 2560 with ramps 1.4(set to 1/32 micro stepping) and drivers drv8825. [See my previous question.](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8480/errorprinter-halted-kill-called)
After some time (less than one minute) the first is cold. The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.
What can I do to fix it. | [
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"text": "Problem statement\n-----------------\n\nYour RAMPs board is supplying your drivers all with similar voltages, with th... | 2019/03/17 | [
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8,488 | I have a heavily modified DiscoEasy 200 from Dagoma, see picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVfL4.jpg)
The heatbed is mounted on 4 springs, on top of the original plate. I made sure the X carriage was parallel to the table. I then tried to level the bed manually, with the 4 springs: I pushed the nozzle into each corner of the bed, and used the paper-gauge method to adjust the springs so that the bed would always be at the same distance of the nozzle. I then setup the Z-offset on the machine and tried to print a mainstream bed leveling test from thingiverse. I use a 4 points auto bed leveling.
And I have a systematic problem. **Every time** I try the bed leveling test, it seems the right side of the bed is lower than the left one. The front and rear right corners seem to be lower than on the left side. I tried to expand the springs of the front and rear right corners, but the auto bed leveling at the beginning of my prints re-introduces the problem.
The right side seems to be ~100 µm lower than what it should be. It's not a lot, but it's enough for prints to fail.
I can't figure out what the problem is. Do you have any idea? it's driving me crazy to not understand where the problem comes from. | [
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"text": "Did you check if your bed is parallel to the gantry? \n\nIt can happen that after leveling one side and moving to the... | 2019/03/17 | [
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8,500 | I'm trying to print a calibration cube from PLA using a 70 °C heated build platform on a Prusa i3 Pro W. This results in:
[)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G00Um.jpg))
Please explain why it prints like this. | [
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"text": "There are multiple issues that cause this result.\n\nFirst, your nozzle is to far from the bed. This can be seen by t... | 2019/03/19 | [
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8,510 | Can you think of a preferably cheap solution for me? I need a machine that pumps air out of my 3d printing enclosure, about 4 meters of pipe length. (From enclosure to window) What kind of pump or fan can pump air out of the enclosure (4m pipe length) at the lowest possible price and low volume?
I need it for cooling purposes and for better general air quality in my room after opening the printer enclosure.
It doesn't need to be top notch equipment, just enough for my purposes. | [
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"text": "Well you can get a centrifugal fan and put it at either end of the pipe. You didn't specify a pipe diameter so ... | 2019/03/20 | [
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8,512 | I have some flexible PLA filament ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKSSA4E/](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00VKSSA4E), presumably a mix of PLA with some platicizer) that's supposed to be easy to print with settings similar to regular PLA. I've seen recommendations to disable retraction, and indeed I get huge failures to extrude at all for a while after retraction if it's enabled. But with retraction disabled, I get stringing all over the place, and since the material isn't brittle, it's really difficult to remove.
I'm using a bed temp of 60 and print temp of 220, increased from 210 for normal PLA since I had trouble getting it to adhere at lower temp. Printer is Creality Ender 3. Using CuraEngine for slicing. The extruder is feeding the material fine; there's no kinking going on or anything.
Where should I start trying to improve this? Might retraction work with a really really slow print speed or greatly reduced retraction distance? Or are there other ways to avoid stringing? | [
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"text": "You could enable `combing` in the slicer. Combing not only prevents retracts, it also uses already laid down paths fo... | 2019/03/21 | [
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8,515 | I equipped my Makerbot Replicator 2x with [silent stepper drivers TMC2100](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Makerbot-Replicator-2-3D-Printer-Part-Makerbot-TMC2100-V1-0-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Module-With-Heatsink/32870918354.html). According to the product page I reduced Vref from 127 (factory default) to 25 in the printer settings as well as in my start G-code.
With this I get horrible layer shifting (a few millimeters!), even if I reduce print- and travel-acceleration to 300. The layer shifting is mostly happening on the Y-axis, but also on X-axis. Not only layer shifting was happening, also the extruder-motors lost many steps.
To fight this problem I increased the Vref little by little. At around 70 for X and Y axis (and 50 for extruders) all layer shift- and extrusion problems were gone. Also I had to install a dedicated fan for the stepper drivers, because they got very hot.
I was happy with this solution for about 10 minutes, then I noticed that the stepper motors are getting so hot I burned my fingertips by touching them. My guess for the motor temperature would be 80~90 °C.
So my question is: Are those TMC2100 stepper driver unsuitable for my usecase somehow or am I missing something? Is there a way to get the 3D printer silent while not overheating?
---
On behalf of advice in the comments, I mounted some [heat sinks](https://www.amazon.de/Schwarz-Aluminium-K%C3%BChlk%C3%B6rper-Heizk%C3%B6rper-Heatsink/dp/B07C7SJHTH) and measured the temperature via an [IR-thermometer](https://www.amazon.de/Thermometer-ber%C3%BChrungslos-Temperaturmessger%C3%A4t-Temperaturmesser-Beleuchtung/dp/B01I4TB2IM/). With the old original stepper drivers I get 60 °C for the Y-axis and 66 °C for the X-axis. With TMC2100 it is 86 °C for both. (Each temperature measured at the heatsink) | [
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"text": "Most Stepper drivers will have lots of energy passing through them so it is crucial to having a moderately sized h... | 2019/03/21 | [
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8,520 | **Facts:**
1. Breaking down (or melting) plastic creates nanoparticles.1
2. 3D printers melt plastic.2
3. Therefore, 3D printers make nanoparticles.3
4. Nanoparticles are evil.*[citation needed]*
Wait, What?
---
1. [Plastic waste disintegrates into nanoparticles](https://phys.org/news/2018-12-plastic-disintegrates-nanoparticles.html)
2. [How do 3D printers work?](https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-3d-printers-work.html)
3. [Characterization of particle emissions from consumer fused deposition modeling 3D printers](https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/02786826.2017.1342029)
---
*I know* that 3D printers make nanoparticles. But is that actually a safety concern? There are multiple [products](https://www.zimple3d.com/zimpure/) on the market today that will suck up your nanoparticles for you. However, I can't see an obvious danger in the particles themselves. Who decided that these nanoparticles are bad for your health? 3D printers put out plenty of heat too, but nobody thinks that's dangerous.
So my question: **Does anyone know of sources/research articles of the possible harmful effects of nanoparticles created by 3D printing?** I'm looking for real scientific research. Thanks. | [
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"text": "At the time of this writing (March 2019), I don't think theres any study on the health effects of nanoparticle... | 2019/03/22 | [
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8,534 | Recently I have been doing more complicated math in OpenSCAD and I have run into something that I find strange. Take a simple math expression: `2 / 2 / 2`. By any programming language this will equal 0.5 (1/2), and OpenSCAD agrees. Something like this: `2 / -2 / 2` should also be -0.5 for the same reason. However, OpenSCAD thinks this is -2. That is `echo(2 / -2 / 2);` gives `ECHO: -2`. My calculator, other programming languages (and myself) all say its -0.5.
Is this a quirk of OpenSCAD, or am I missing something obvious? | [
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"text": "I suspect the behavior you are seeing is an undocumented feature (aka, bug) of OpenSCAD. I've found in the latest s... | 2019/03/23 | [
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8,539 | 3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.
I'm trying to print this: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311>
That's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrrKz.png)
What riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet.
I've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:
* Changing the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)
* Tuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.
* Tuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.
* In the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.
* Tried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.
So far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.
Other that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.
So... any clue how to fix this? | [
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"text": "Basically, **you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling**. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect ... | 2019/03/25 | [
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8,547 | I bought new yellow PLA filament from XYZ (1.75 mm).
Over the past I have printed many objects with my da Vinci 1.0 (ABS only). I found that while the brim is being printing (using default configuration of XYZWare; the da Vinci machines give the user very little control over print parameters, if I remember correctly the temperatures are controlled by the chip in the filament cassette), filament stopped extruding from my extruder immediately. However, ABS can be printed properly.
Could anyone tell me how can I work around ?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TJPFb.jpg "Part of brim that stopped printing") | [
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"text": "That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that you... | 2019/03/25 | [
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8,548 | At the moment the outside surface temperature is around 30 °C. Can I put my PETG spools outside with a fan in order to dry them cheaply? | [
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"text": "That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that you... | 2019/03/25 | [
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8,553 | I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power supply 12V/360W laying around.
When I first got my printer I purchased [this](http://www.lerdge.com/prod_view.aspx?TypeId=12&Id=212&FId=t3:12:3) external MOSFET board after reading about X5s "upgrades", but so far have not used it.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6M16.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiqlH.jpg)
My plan is to now run the heat bed using a separate power supply than the one running my control board using the external MOSFET to switch it. Since this power supply will only be powering the bed, I would like to bump up the voltage, via trim-pot somewhere from 12V-15V, to gain some watts per square inch on my heat bed.
Will this MOSFET isolate the heat bed circuit from my control board to allow it be ran at a higher voltage? Is it safe to run the power supply/heat bed at a higher voltage than it is rated for a significant amount of time? | [
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"text": "Short answer YES. You can run it from a different power supply at a higher voltage. Also it has a PC817 Optical ... | 2019/03/25 | [
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8,563 | I printed a raspberry pi case from PLA. [This case](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1549574).
I fitted it to my raspberry pi and now the wifi keeps dropping out. When I take it out of the case there is no problem.
The filament I am using is Black, 3D Hero 1.75mm.
Has anyone experienced anything like this before, if so how did you work around it?
Is it common with PLA is there another material that wouldn't cause an issue? | [
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"text": "Typically the black pigments in polymers are mineral based. If you are having true WiFi issues then it... | 2019/03/27 | [
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8,577 | I've been asked to come up with a grant proposal for a new 3D printer. My question is:
>
> What supporting components and training would be most beneficial to support educational use in a K-8 school? In other words what things am I missing in my list below?
>
>
>
Specific suggestions for things on my list that I may not have thought of are welcome too. A specific tool, etc.
The suggestion was to include a base proposal with stretch goals that include everything needed.
My current ideas are:
* 3D Printer - option of a Prosi Mk3 or a Railcore 300ZLT. Possibly add another Prosi Mk3 kit as a stretch goal for students to assemble.
* Replacement and optional parts such as a hardened nozzle.
* Training and professional development
* Filament - a variety of kinds such as PLA, ABS, flexible, conductive, etc.
* Dry box or supplies to make one.
* HEPA filter.
* Enclosure - heated and/or soundproofed.
* Maintenance tools or supplies. Lubricant, etc. | [
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"text": "Typically the black pigments in polymers are mineral based. If you are having true WiFi issues then it... | 2019/03/28 | [
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8,586 | I have a 3D printer and I have printed some models with castable resin. When I burn one of these models in the oven and then do the metal casting, the surface of the metal piece is not smooth.
I did a test with a pan. I put a model of wax and a model of castable resin to heat in a pan, and the wax model melts, but the resin model don't.
The resin I have is the following:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/o07nG.jpg)
What is the correct process to make a correct resin casting?
Thanks for your help. | [
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"text": "Traditional lost molds.\n-----------------------\n\nThe reason many jewelers use wax for making the molds for lost mo... | 2019/03/30 | [
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8,594 | I know I did something stupid. I just had to have a SLA 3d printer. The issue being I live in a one bedroom apartment. In the months of owning it I have made lots of amazing pieces, I also for the first time in my life have not only allergies, but sever allergies. I thought I had the flu, and has been most of the last 2-3 months. After making the connection to the symptoms appearing after I got the printer, I sealed the resin vat and removed all cleaning station items from my living space. I had thought I had done "enough" by sealing the printers door, and making sure I could not smell any chemicals, and getting a chemical grade air filter.
It's been 2 days, and I'm instantly recovering from my symptoms, and have discontinued allergy medication.
Other than not own this type of printer, what kind of setup do I need so that I can safely use this printer? Does anyone sell enclosures or setups for businesses or homes that will solve this issue?
I can move the cleaning station to my balcony, as it also has a sink and space. Placing the printer even in an enclosure outside would be hard due to the humidity and extreme pollen we get here. | [
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"text": "One of the options you have would be to create a negative pressure in your working area. This would be accomplishe... | 2019/04/01 | [
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8,605 | I'm having a problem where the relative dimensional error of cylinders is rapidly increasing as the absolute size decreases. Printing a calibration stack of cylinders of diameters 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 mm, they come out undersized by 5%, 5.3%, 7%, 8%, 10%, and 13%, respectively, as measured by a digital caliper. Cubes exhibit a less severe version of the same pattern: 2.5%, 3%, 5%, 4%, 5%, 7%. The cylinders are generated with OpenSCAD using `$fn=180`, i.e. they're actually extrusions of 180-gons, so the error should not be caused by poor chord approximation; indeed, measuring projections of the model, or reading the gcode and accounting for nozzle width, everything looks right.
Printer is Ender 3, using PLA at 210. Slicing with CuraEngine.
Could this be caused by underextrusion or print speed issues - or some effect where the material pulls itself together under tight curvature? What techniques might be able to compensate for it, short of fudging the model?
Some additional information: As noted by Trish in the comments, the consistency of the absolute error, which is 0.4 for cylinders and 0.2 for cubes, is likely important. I've also subsequently tested with 110% extrusion rate and the errors for the cylinders dropped to consistently 0.2 mm (still a significant increasing relative error), but the skin layers at the top of the 3 mm cylinder bulged, suggesting the increased extrusion is wrong - an excessive total volume of material. | [
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8,615 | I've been having trouble uploading the TH3DUF\_R2 firmware to my CR-10. I've already successfully flashed the bootloader using my Arduino, but when I try to upload the bootloader I get this error:
`avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for "\\.\COM4"`
Things I've tried:
* Changing the usb drivers
* Changing the baud rate
* Using a different computers without any other usb devices
My printer is not functional right now with just a bootloader and no firmware, so I'm not really sure where to go from here. | [
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8,616 | Anyone have any idea how much power it takes to run a Creality Ender 3 3D printer every day for several hours at a time? Like what does it eat up per hour? A rough estimate of power use per hour would be nice, then I can figure out how much it costs me. Can anyone help me? | [
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"text": "If it is really important to you to know how much you are spending per any given print, your best bet is not to... | 2019/04/05 | [
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8,626 | Has anyone had any luck with printing multi-colored prints with the Palette 2 on an Ender 3? If so, what is your steps/mm for the Ender 3 and your flow rate in whatever slicer you are using? I currently have my flow rate at 100 % and my steps/mm at 104.4, and I believe this is what is causing my Palette 2 to not produce accurate results.
---
**About the Palette 2**
[Palette 2](https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-2) is a separate device providing one multi color filament out of multiple single color filaments.
As the Ender 3 does not support multi-colour printing, that's why I'm using the Palette 2. It allows any printer to print in multi color as it adds multi color printing to single extruder printers. | [
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"text": "On this thread, [Does anyone tried Palette 2.0 on Creality Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro?](https://support.mosaicmfg.c... | 2019/04/06 | [
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8,627 | This may be a long shot, but I was wondering if the signals seen across a stepper motor's windings could indicate whether the stepper was being told to move over some short time period. This is in particular for the stepper used on extruders.
I've read that PWM in used in stepper drivers and controls current patterns to move the motor. And that a current must also be maintained through the windings if the motor is to hold its position. So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is energized, correct? When the motor is holding its position, is there anything distinctive about the waveform?
This is for a filament sensor I'd like to make. The sensor would be located at the extruder motor. It would monitor movement/flow of the solid filament. A lack of filament flow could be because of filament runout, tangled or caught filament, or non-extruding travel moves. I'd like to be able to tell the first two causes from the last one (when it's not supposed to be extruding for some hundreds of milliseconds or so). It would also be nice to tell 'no directed movement' from 'very slow movement' which would happen with small nozzles, slow speed or other slow extrusion situations.
I watched the waveforms with an oscilloscope while printing, but travel moves were quick and relatively rare, so I couldn't definitely see if there was something I could use during those times. Could I just filter the pulse waveform (what corner frequency?) to get an approximation of the current waveform going through the coils -- on the idea that the waveform should resemble a DC level during non-extruding but still energized times. Perhaps another low-pass filtering of that DC level, or a high-pass of the waveform to indicate directed extrusion? Using DSP on a micro, of course.
Are there any experts here on the subject of low-level stepper motor control? | [
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"text": "> \n> So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is ener... | 2019/04/06 | [
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8,629 | When filament is too short for the extruder to push will there be a stop in printing on the Ender 3, meaning that I should replace the filament when the end of the filament is near the extruder? | [
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"text": "The extruder can't push anymore when the filament is past the extruder gear. If your filament has run out to that poi... | 2019/04/06 | [
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8,635 | When houses are printed with concrete cement what replaces the steel rebar for reinforcement?
Here's a link referencing printing concrete: <https://www.aniwaa.com/house-3d-printer-construction/>
>
> House 3D printers use extrusion technology. Some construction 3D printers look like super-sized desktop FFF/FDM 3D printers (gantry style), whereas others consist of a rotating mechanical arm.
>
>
> In both cases, paste-type components such as concrete are used as filament. The material is pushed out of a special nozzle to form layers. To put it (very) simply, paste extrusion is similar using a piping bag to spread frosting on a cake.
>
>
> The printer creates the foundations and walls of the house or building, layer by layer. The ground is literally the printer’s build plate. Some concrete 3D printers, however, are used to 3D print brick molds. When molded, the bricks are then piled atop each other manually (or with a robotic arm).
>
>
>
Like most of the people here my experience is with a printer (RepRap) that can use PLA or ABS. With all the materials normally put into concrete, using an extrusion printer to print concrete is puzzling. | [
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"text": "The extruder can't push anymore when the filament is past the extruder gear. If your filament has run out to that poi... | 2019/04/06 | [
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8,662 | I'm interested in 3d printed reaction chambers, but can't find any good information on chemical resistances of PLA, just vague claims that it "might not be" "because it's biodegradable" or that it depends on additives (likely true, but it would be nice to know if there's hope of finding PLA without problematic additives if the PLA itself is okay). Is there any published research or even anecdotes (which could suggest it's worth spending effort to investigate further) on this topic? | [
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"text": "As @T. M. notes in his comment, there are many good charts of chemical compatibility with various agents. Very few (I ... | 2019/04/11 | [
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8,665 | I'd like to buy a new nozzle for my Anycubic i3 Mega because it's not precise enough - it fails to print small details like 1 mm eyebrows.
Currently it has a 0.4 mm nozzle and I'd like to buy a better one but I don't know how to choose one which is compatible with this printer.
If you have any advice, please let me know. | [
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"text": "According to [Anycubic](https://youtu.be/QnnPsoL5cHE?t=18) this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen fr... | 2019/04/12 | [
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8,666 | We have a fairly new Ultimaker 3 Extended.
When printing ABS with the AA0.8 nozzle and the recommended settings (up-to-date CURA) we receive a very poor wall quality that exposes some kind of pores. I've attached an image of those pores.
I assume those pores are dragged by the nozzle when it moves inwards to print the infill.
I already tried to increase the wall thickness or increase the layer height to 0.3 mm. Are there other settings I might be able to tweak to eliminate those pores?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rk9Lp.jpg "Outer wall with pores") | [
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"text": "According to [Anycubic](https://youtu.be/QnnPsoL5cHE?t=18) this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen fr... | 2019/04/12 | [
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8,671 | I've got several examples like the image below where the perimeter either doesn't bond to, or doesn't reach the infill. I tried adjusting the `infill overlap` parameter in Slic3r from its default of 25 % to 30 %, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference. This is on a new Tevo Tornado that's all stock + a Petsfang Bullseye cooler.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G97AW.jpg "Visible separation on perimeter of the inner box")
---
Neither speed variations, nor temp variation seems to impact this issue. I'm beginning to suspect that it's related to some sort of play in the Y-axis, as if you look at the defect in the picture, it's the most pronounced running north/south in the picture, which would be layers along the X-axis (meaning their relative position would be impacted by Y-axis movement instability). I'm replacing the leveling springs with PETG standoffs tonight (I have a BLTouch) and will try again then.
I tried 25, 30, and 50 % infill overlap as per a comment request, and that (50 %) seems to have improved another issue where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells.
I tried the following print speeds with all of the following temperatures (nozzle/bed): 190/60 °C, 193/65 °C, 193/70 °C, with 3 perimeters.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DL4bK.png "Default parameters")
That's default behavior. I've also gone to
* Perimeters - 80 mm/s
* Small perimeters - 20 mm/s
* Infill - 90 mm/s
* Solid infil - 25 mm/s
* Top solid infil - 20 mm/s
* Bridges - 70 mm/s
* Gap fill - 25 mm/s
With no visible change in this outer perimeter behavior (the faster set of numbers is what I print with in general). | [
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8,673 | Is there a way to change the use of an extruder port on a 3D printer motherboard to move stepper motors (on y axis) on a 3D printer?
This is for a school project, and we have replaced the extruder with a laser for cutting material.
We were tasked with converting a 3D printer into LOM 3D printer, the laser is set using the fan port, however we still need two stepper motors to move material from one side of the printer to the other after each layer of material is cut.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l40X1.png "Diagram")
The mother board we are using is [WitBot MKS Gen L V1.0 Controller Board Integrated mainboard Compatible Ramps1.4/Mega2560 R3 with A4988 Motor Driver for 3D](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07MXX2RV7). | [
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"text": "This has nothing to do with the infill overlap, the image you've added looks as if the issue is related to non-bondin... | 2019/04/12 | [
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8,681 | During my last print I noticed this jumpy behavior during heat up (blue is bed, red is hotend):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlD2K.png "Graph of heatbed and hotend temperature over time")
So I am wondering about the jumps. What could cause this? I do not think that it is a defunct sensor (it is in both sensors) and I also don't think it is real. Could this pose some sort of hazard as temperature might not properly be controlled?
I use an Anet A8 printer with Marlin 1.1.9 and Octoprint | [
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"text": "It looks like everything is ok with the real temperature, and it is just Octoprint missing some readings, like Osha... | 2019/04/14 | [
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8,690 | I changed the filament, and to adjust filament temperature, I printed a test model and it looked good:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/90rop.jpg)
But printing another part did not go so well:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDVQa.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYSJy.jpg)
After the failed print I ran another test:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp0Pk.jpg)
Еverything is done with the same settings.
And I think the temperature and settings are okay.
Is it possible to have a missed step on the Z axis, and this has caused the crushing of the layers or bad filament quality.
Where does the problem come from? | [
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"text": "Looking at the second photograph and the way that the filament switches abruptly from smooth to irregular deposition, ... | 2019/04/14 | [
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8,694 | I'm trying to set up an enclosed (custom enclosure) Prosi i3 style printer for ABS, but having a fair amount of difficulty preventing the part corners from curling.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9YT6.png "Example of curling at part corners")
Detailed specs:
* Geetech A10 (generic Prosi clone) w/ PEI heatbed
* Custom enclosure
* Slic3r software
* ABS filament (obviously!)
* 247 °C hotend temp
* 115 °C heated bed first layer, 110 °C for others
* Fan on for layer 3 and above
Verified heatbed temperature with calibrated IR imager.
Thus far I have been unable to prevent parts from separating from the heatbed during print, primarily at the corners where stress is concentrated. I've tried various heatbed temperatures from 90 °C to 115 °C, lower hotend temperatures (which just made the problem worse and caused complete print failure), cleaning the PEI surface with alcohol, etc. to no avail. I'm even seeing this to some extent with Benchy, it shows up as a lift to the stern and bow (slight bend parallel to the keel) -- the print is otherwise basically perfect.
I've attached an image of the more extreme curling -- yes, I should probably be using mouse ears on a part like this, but I see the same thing on parts that shouldn't require mouse ears.
What is the best way to fix this particular problem? Temperature adjustments, brims, rafts, something else? | [
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8,705 | Most of my part is printing very well, but I have problems in the bottom layer and in layers that are the first layers, but not necessarily layer 0.
Looking at the [print quality troubleshooting](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/), I can't find a problem that fits my needs. Using the terms over there, I would describe it as "gaps in bottom layer".
Photo from part A (RPi case top piece):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0JkO3.jpg)
Photos from part B (RPi case bottom):
There is a really ugly screwhole (sorry for the blurry picture):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/B0Yyw.jpg)
But in the same part, there's an almost perfect much better screwhole:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsYWQ.jpg)
For the location on the print bed, it's here (both parts):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoXaU.png)
I have seen the question [First bottom layer has gaps](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2943/first-bottom-layer-has-gaps), where the OP has already tried a lot.
My thoughts so far:
* I don't want to generally lower the Z height, since it prints fine over a large area with a really flat and smooth surface.
* I'm not sure I should change the temperature settings. I use the i3 MK3 printer and I use Prosi PLA filament with Slic3r Prosi PLA filament settings.
* I don't understand many of the extrusion width / extrusion multiplier options of that question.
* I thought I might have had a fingerprint on the print plate. I typically avoid that by wearing gloves and cleaning the print bed with alcohol every fifth print or so. However, I didn't clean before any of the two parts. (I cleaned now)
**Given the description and the pictures, can you name the problem and suggest the most likely solution?**
Printer and filament details:
* Prosi i3 MK3
* [Prosi PLA filament 1.75 mm, pearl blue](https://shop.prusa3d.com/de/filament/224-perlblaues-pla-filament-1kg.html)
* 0.20 mm SPEED setting
* 20% infill
* 5mm Brim
* 215°C first layer, 210°C other layers
* 60°C bed temperature
* Prosi PLA default filament settings
I use a Prosi spring steel print bed. No special adhesion, tape or anything. Closest I could find in the shop is [smooth PEI](https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3-and-mk3s-printer-parts/216-spring-steel-sheet-smooth-pei.html), but mine looks more golden. | [
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"text": "I know you said you don't want to change the Z height, but it does look like you're printing a bit too far from th... | 2019/04/16 | [
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8,709 | I’m using a RepRap printer, PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm), SketchUp, and Slic3r. The heated bed is covered with a blue polyester sticker. When I print small holes (1 to 1.5 mm radius), slicer software considers the holes outside edges for the first layer and prints them before the internal first layer. The problem is, unlike the actual outer edges, the holes have no brim and the small first layer circles stick to the extruder rather than the bed. The rest of the first layer print sticks and the print eventually recovers with slight defects depending on where the lifted circles end up. If I could print the first layer circles after the surrounding first layer was printed, this wouldn’t be an issue. I’ve tried different bed and extrusion temperatures. All four holes in different locations do the same. First layer is 0.3 mm thick. Second layer is 0.2 mm thick. | [
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"text": "are you using hairspray or tape to help with bed adhesion? If not that might help.\n\nAlso try printing the first ... | 2019/04/16 | [
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8,712 | The [Prusa3d knowledge base](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/6Gtws6Yqjg-pei-print-surface-preparation) mentions that acetone will "rejuvenate" PEI in addition to cleaning oil and grease from the surface.
>
> About once a week, or when **prints stop sticking**, use **ACETONE** to clean the bed. It removes grease better than IPA or Windex. It also **rejuvenates** the print surface. However, if you use acetone every day, PEI will become brittle and start cracking.
>
>
>
From a chemical or physical perspective, how does acetone affect the PEI surface? | [
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"text": "Acetone is smelly nasty stuff. Here's a sample recommendation for PEI maintenance from one of a few (million... | 2019/04/17 | [
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8,715 | I work in a teaching hospital and we have a research project we're interested in pursuing. We'd like to 3D Print tubes we'd implant into rats to help with nerve regeneration. We're interested in the shape of the tubes right now, more so than what material it is or whether it's biocompatible etc..
So this question isn't necessarily about what type of plastic or whatever we should print in. My question is more so:
>
> We'd like to print a tube that's 1 mm in diameter, about 1 cm
> long and has as many micro "tubes" crammed through it as possible,
> something like this:
>
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ry5X1.png "Tube containing micro tubes")
>
>
>
I currently have a Stratasys j750 in my lab, a UPrint Se and a Prusa i3 Mk3s. They all work well but for the detail I'm looking for, come up a bit short. They have advertised accuracies of 14 microns (well, the j750) but thats just in the z direction, x and y are more like 200. If I went to get PRECISE, what technology should I look into? | [
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"text": "This is an interesting question. A good thing to note when we start talking about SLA and other jewelry grade 3d ... | 2019/04/17 | [
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8,717 | I recently upgraded to [a Polypropylene](https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-polypropylene-build-plate-for-ender-3-ender-5-cr20_p0124.html) print bed, but I haven't actually been able to complete a print.
Adhesion seems incredibly inconsistent, even on the same spot. Sometimes it goes down great, and sometimes it just curls up and clumps on the nozzle. I even cranked the temp up to 220 °C for the PLA and 70 °C for the bed in an effort to get it to stick for an initial layer, and it still isn't sticking.
Any tips? I've been cleaning with rubbing alcohol, but I don't know if there's any trick. Clean when hot? Cold? Let sit after cleaning before using? Is it just a matter of incredibly precise bed leveling? | [
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"text": "If you are using PLA, 200 for the extruder sticks the best for me. The other issue with adhesion is the greate... | 2019/04/18 | [
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8,729 | I got a Tronxy X5S-400, I assembled it and when I power it on, I see on the screen one of the below images and gets stuck there.
Is the firmware broken? If yes, where can I get a `configuration.h` file?
I verified that the two buses between the screen and the mainboard are not loose or incorrectly connected.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilwaq.jpg "Marlin splash screen")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIkog.jpg "Screen corruption")
The board is a MKS Melzi v2.0 clone
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hhtaw.jpg "Controller") | [
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"text": "If the controller is one of Tronxy's new Chitu boards, you will not have the option of recompiling the firmware, since... | 2019/04/18 | [
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8,741 | I acquired an Anycubic Chiron yesterday. I went through the leveling procedure and I think the level test print came out okay so I printed a 20 mm calibration cube and a benchy. Both of these came out with a sort of spongy consistency.
I have no idea what could be causing this so some advice would be appreciated.
I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.0.0 and printing in PLA.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3Gs0.jpg "Spongy Print") | [
{
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"text": "I would lay odds on it being your filament is moisture saturated. You don't state what type of filament you're ... | 2019/04/20 | [
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8,748 | Following the question I asked here: [Replace X axis motor with different model](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8735/replace-x-axis-motor-with-different-model/8738?noredirect=1#comment14916_8738)
I have a problem with my new motor. My X-axis is now moved by a 17HS3401S motor, instead of a 42SHD0217-24B motor.
On small segments, like when I need to print an arc with a lot of small straight lines, my printhead "vibrates" instead of having a smooth movement. It seems it stops for a very short amount of time before trying to move again. On longer travels there is no problem.
Do you know if it's because of the motor, or because of something else? (Vref not set properly maybe?) | [
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"text": "The overall torque, and thus the incremental torque is less with your new stepper, this may result in less smooth ope... | 2019/04/21 | [
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8,751 | I am trying to print the 3 jaw lathe chuck on [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625). This specific piece is the scroll.stl, but it applies on every big piece. The print material is (transparent) PLA, that I print on custom glass bed, which is heated by a regular heated bed at 65 °C. However, my print is warping on the external edges of a solid 2 mm for a 85 mm diameter print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7rCP.jpg)
I didn't use the cooling fan. And I don't have an enclosure to keep the warmth inside the printing area. The nozzle temperature is around 200 °C.
What could be wrong?
The printer is a slightly modified Prusa i3 MK2. | [
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"answer_id": 8752,
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"text": "Several things I've done to stop warping when it occurred:\n\n1. Use a wider brim.\n2. If the brim isn't stick... | 2019/04/21 | [
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8,758 | I am trying to figure out how to wire up Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) on my Ender 3 using the optocoupler and inductive proximity sensor below.
I cannot figure out how to wire it all together, all the tutorials I have found are for 2 and 3 wire per side of the optocoupler.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VL6Ix.jpg "NOYITO Optocoupler Isolation MOS FET 10A DC 2.7-27V High-Power Field Effect Tube Driver Module 0-20Khz PWM Switch Control Board Development Board Module")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5FWj.jpg "uxcell 4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch Detector NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA 3-Wire LJ12A3-4-Z/BX") | [
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"text": "Connecting is pretty straightforward like the other modules, difference is an extra input lead.\n\nFrom e.g. [here](h... | 2019/04/23 | [
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8,760 | I'm having problems when printing small parts over big areas.
I'm currently printing quite big casing (~180 mm x 100 mm), which has hexagonal holes on the corners. On the first layer the printer prints, in order:
* Supports inside the holes,
* Borders around the holes
* Border of the whole casing and finally
* Infill (since it is first layer, infill is solid)
When printing borders around holes, printer's head travels between all holes (so that's around 90 % of the whole bed width), what results in filament oozing and the hole borders being underextruded (sometimes to the point, that filament doesn't stick to the bed).
My setup is CReality3D Ender 3 with Ultimaker Cura 3. Most important settings:
* Print speed 40 mm/s
* Nozzle temperature 215 °C
* Bed temperature 60 °C
* Retraction on travel turned on
* Retraction additional prime amount set to 0.05 mm3.
* Outer walls printed after inner ones
What would help (I guess) is slowing down the print after long travels or priming more filament, but proportionally to the travel distance. There are no such settings in Ultimaker Cura though.
How can I deal with such problem? | [
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"text": "Connecting is pretty straightforward like the other modules, difference is an extra input lead.\n\nFrom e.g. [here](h... | 2019/04/23 | [
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8,765 | I made a print that involves joining two halves together to create the full model. I decided to use hot glue to bond the halves and on one model, the parts came together slightly skewed. Is there any way to ‘unbond’ the hot glue without ruining the model so I can realign the pieces? Touching the glue gun tip to the hot glue wouldn’t work, as the glue is *inside* the model. | [
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"text": "Connecting is pretty straightforward like the other modules, difference is an extra input lead.\n\nFrom e.g. [here](h... | 2019/04/23 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8765",
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