qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
9,780 | Following advice I read elsewhere, I have covered my (heated) print bed with blue painter's tape, and before each print I apply an Elmer's purple washable glue stick to improve bed adhesion.
After the print finishes and I remove the part from the bed, the bottom is covered with a white residue. I'm fairly certain this is the dried glue. It turns purple again when I wet it.
Is there an easy way to clean off this residue, or is there a better technique?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bizFY.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 9781,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Elmer's Purple Gluestick is pretty much based on PVA with a water-indicator. It is a water-soluble material. Tossing t... | 2019/04/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9780",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16270/"
] |
9,792 | I'm still new to 3D printing and I want to print something. I expect that I'll mess it up since I find nothing to adjust it but it is now laying around for 4 months and I'm sick of it.
So my question is where do I find Windows software to print something and of course where do I get a 3D model?
I own a Geeetech i3 Pro W. | [
{
"answer_id": 9793,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "First; find a model!\n--------------------\n\nTo print something you require a **model** (usually this is in STL forma... | 2019/04/26 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9792",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13891/"
] |
9,807 | The original bed surface of my Ender 3 has become brittle and finally cracked, requiring replacement. I'm trying to figure out what the cause might have been to avoid it happening again. It seems to have started after using "flex PLA", which involves both high temperatures (225 °C) and plasticizers mixed in the PLA. Could either of these have contributed to the problem? I'm not sure what material the bed surface is - it's the new one that's removable and held on by clips. If it's PEI, the glass transition temperature is supposedly 217 °C, just above what I use for normal PLA but well below what I'm using for the flex, so perhaps that's the cause?
Image of the damage:  | [
{
"answer_id": 9809,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "The material used for the Build surface is not PEI but a BuildTak Clone that offers adhesion through a rough surface ... | 2019/04/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9807",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
9,808 | I've seen questions about (like [What is stopping us from mixing 3d filament colors in an Extruder?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/2670/11157)) and some solutions for mixing filament colors/materials at print time for multi-color printing, but my question is different: Are there any (affordable) commercially available devices, or DIY/homebrew solutions, for taking 2 or more 1.75 mm filaments, mixing them in proportion, and extruding back as 1.75 mm filament for use in a printer?
In principle it should just take N extruder drives fed a the right proportional rates, one of the multi-input hotends, a 1.75 mm extrusion nozzle, and another drive to pull the extruded filament at the right rate to keep the diameter stable. But I'm curious if anyone's tried and tuned this. Another approach might be taking a hotend made for 3 mm filament, drilling the nozzle orifice out to 1.75 mm, and feeding 3 pieces of 1.75 mm filament into it at once (size seems to match pretty closely).
My interest in this is that I mostly print small things, and it takes months to go through even a single kg of filament, so it's impractical to buy and keep around a bunch of different colors. I'd also like to be able to experiment with mixing flex PLA and plain PLA to get a material with a lot less plasticizer, so that it's not flexible, just less brittle.
Shredding into pellets and measuring out ratios is too much overhead to make it worth it. The key part of the question is doing it direct from filament to filament. | [
{
"answer_id": 9811,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "Making your own filament\n------------------------\n\nTheoretically, this could be done with any filament producing e... | 2019/04/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9808",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
9,821 | I'm not sure how else to describe it. There's probably a name for this but I just don't know it. But the bottom few layers came out great, but the rest came out kind of like a triscuit. Below are pics of my print and settings. I am using a delta style printer. Can someone tell me what this issue is called and how to fix it?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIC5X.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQtFj.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMsYs.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdEbV.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vph9a.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCqXD.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 9822,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "Underextrusion.\n---------------\n\n* I suggest upgrading to Cura 3, as you are working with a version 1.5.\n* If you... | 2019/04/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9821",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16309/"
] |
9,833 | Trying to print a 3D model for my mobile phone, but I see that when printing the sides, being thin, increases the retraction and the recoil seems a little abrupt and makes a coarse sound.
I would like to know if it is possible to know what speed and temperature is recommended to print a model.
In my case I use Simplify3D, and when I'm going to save the file in `.gcode` format, I see that there are some ranges shown in colors, how does this apply to the models?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ysqr.png "Screenshot of Simplify3D") | [
{
"answer_id": 9834,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "The first indication for print speed and temperature should be taken from the box the filament comes in. Generally it ... | 2019/05/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9833",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12715/"
] |
9,842 | I'm wondering if there is some trick to power my OctoPi with the power supply of my 3D printer. I'm using an Geeetech I3 Pro W.
The power supply itself should be able, but the output is as far as I'm aware of 3.3 volts. Not my desired 5 V for USB, it would be a shame if I really would need to buy a new power supply when I have a strong one actually running. My current power supply causes a lot of "Under-voltage detected!" warnings.
After thinking a little about the specs, there are cigarette lighter adapter for cars they use 12 V. Has anyone experience with using that on his printer? | [
{
"answer_id": 9843,
"author": "Perplexed Dipole",
"author_id": 11097,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11097",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Where are you plugging in the USB power to the Pi? If you are back powering it from the data connection,... | 2019/05/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9842",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13891/"
] |
9,845 | I am consistently getting these strings in the overhangs on models that folks say they are printing without supports. Can anyone tell me what is causing them and what I can do to fix them?
I've attached a picture mid-way during a [BB-8](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3232347) print. I'm using PLA at 75 % speed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/irMSz.jpg "Stringing on overhangs") | [
{
"answer_id": 9851,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "You did print overhangs without supports. I have printed a Thermal Detonator for StarWars day (May the 4th be with yo... | 2019/05/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9845",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16357/"
] |
9,853 | My FDM printer bed moves on the Y-axis and the print head moves on the X-axis and raises on the Z-axis. When printing rectangular objects (a model of Notre Dame in this case), are there print detail quality advantages to aligning the model perpendicular to the X or Y axis, or at 45 degrees? Part strength is not an issue and support is not needed.
Thanks. | [
{
"answer_id": 9855,
"author": "E Doe",
"author_id": 12934,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12934",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "In short: Not really.\n\nlonger version: It depends.\n\nThe main culprit of losing details in this case would be th... | 2019/05/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9853",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15040/"
] |
9,862 | I printed a case for my phone, a Motorola G4 Plus. I found the model of the casing on [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2482011)
I just downloaded the model, used Meshmixer to check for issues, after that, opened Simplify3d and saved it for printing using an SD Card. The printed size of the model was smaller than expected.
The model designer, says in the description that he used flexible filament. Is it possible than if I change to that filament, the model result is completely different?
Print result - phone casing:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6V14.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDTld.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/S71JO.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 9855,
"author": "E Doe",
"author_id": 12934,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12934",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "In short: Not really.\n\nlonger version: It depends.\n\nThe main culprit of losing details in this case would be th... | 2019/05/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9862",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12715/"
] |
9,865 | I try to print a stamp with flexible filaments. The problem I encounter is that the filament is flexible, but not soft. This leads to small differences in height to parts of the stamp not working.
One solution would be to add a small 'cushion' to add some squishyness to the stamp. I designed the stamp and the 'cushion' but now the question arises:
"Which infill will provide the best uniform squishyness (in one axis)?"
I did a test with cubic infill of Cura, and although it becomes quite squishy, some parts are squishier than other parts of the block.
TLDR; Trying to print a squishy cube, where in one axis all areas of the cube have the same squishyness. | [
{
"answer_id": 9866,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "As the rubber stamp needs to be soft in one axis for the whole area, you could use an infill that causes the same soft... | 2019/05/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9865",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12934/"
] |
9,867 | I’m in the process of installing a BLTouch on a Velleman Vertex K8400. The board doesn’t have a dedicated servo pin, so I’ll assign one. No problem there.
The board only has a Z-min pin, so it’s my understanding that I’m supposed to unplug my Z-min cable and plug the BLTouch into the Z-min port.
My question is: "Can't I assign another unused pin as a Z-max, plug the BLTouch into that, adjust the firmware, and leave the existing Z-min sensor plugged in?"
Upon further review, I probably shouldn't have said Z-max, and will be more specific.
This is a Mega 2560 board with 2 available PWM pins. Anything wrong with this setup?
Pins.h:
```
#define SERVO_0_PIN 15 //PH3 (PWM)
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 16 //PH4 (PWM)
```
Configuration.h:
```
=======Z Probe Option=======
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
#define BLTOUCH
```
I want be able to keep my Z-min sensor plugged in as a backup to prevent a bed crash just in case the BL touch doesn't trigger. From what I see this should work as long as I make sure the BLTouch triggers before the Z-min. Any issues that anyone can see? | [
{
"answer_id": 9868,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "***Note***: The question has changed after posting this answer. This answer answered the previous question, but is no... | 2019/05/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9867",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16358/"
] |
9,870 | Sometimes I use a DIY 3D printer running Marlin firmware and I have a hard time to set my heat bed temperature. when I set it to 70 °C for PLA, after a few minutes it decreases to 67 °C and I see these error:
```
READ: Error:Thermal Runaway, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
READ: Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
```
Since then the communication with printer is lost, the printing process stops and I have to reconnect to serial port... It's a disaster. I guess I need to lower the sensitivity to 3 degrees at least. I don't know how!? | [
{
"answer_id": 10148,
"author": "Nach0z",
"author_id": 16621,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16621",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": true,
"text": "I had a similar issue when printing with ABS, because my print cooling fan only activated once it got to a certain... | 2019/05/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9870",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13700/"
] |
9,872 | I am printing a mechanical part for my printer.
It's a new mount for my extruders and I have been attempting to use BVOH as a support filament so that when my print is done it will cut down on the need to finish the part and possible mistakes.
My problem is I can get the BVOH to adhere to the bed with no problem and no warping of any kind, but I can't get the ASA to adhere to the BVOH supports. I run the BVOH at 220 °C and the ASA at 250 °C with my fan at 10 % and I am using a Flashforge Creator Pro printer which is mostly enclosed.
Does anyone know of a way to get the ASA to adhere to the BVOH? | [
{
"answer_id": 10654,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Can you tell by looking at the de-adhesion what isn't sticking? \n\nIt may be that printing the ASA at higher temperat... | 2019/05/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9872",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9861/"
] |
9,883 | I don't want this to be a specific producer question, but I would like to know if the Sparkmaker is good enough to print small details in OO/HO scale objects.
I'm referring here to objects like furniture, and other house appliances at scale.
I wasn't able to find any visuals with very small objects for this printer. | [
{
"answer_id": 10654,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Can you tell by looking at the de-adhesion what isn't sticking? \n\nIt may be that printing the ASA at higher temperat... | 2019/05/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9883",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5875/"
] |
9,885 | My voltage at the controller at max load is ~11.4 V
(heated bed + motors + hotend). Is this normal?
I'm measuring 11.8 V at the PSU, so 0.4 V -> 5 W lost in the wires.
I have a pretty beefy ~2 mm diameter copper wire that's ~1 m long. Its area is 2.5 mm2. The diameter with shielding is 3.5 mm.
Could there be a bad connection somewhere?
Checked the wire is warm to touch, so looks like it's actually the cause.
Is this normal? Should I go for even bigger wires? | [
{
"answer_id": 9886,
"author": "Viesturs",
"author_id": 16405,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16405",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "Per [this website](https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=6.571&voltag... | 2019/05/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9885",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16405/"
] |
9,889 | I printed parts for a Hijrp Potfeq wand with HatchBox Wood PLA, now I want to apply stain. I intended to try MinWax PolyShades wood stain, then noticed Varathane water-based wood stain is available at my local Rona hardware store. This seems a "healthier" option, maybe not as fussy to apply as PolyShades, anyone had experience with this product? | [
{
"answer_id": 9897,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": -1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Wood stains (as opposed to dyes, paints, etc.) work by having large particles that become lo... | 2019/05/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9889",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10902/"
] |
9,891 | Can any one help me out that how to start a cycle by just using a push button.
Note: Using Marlin firmware, Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4
I haven't tried altering the Marlin code (as I am new to coding), I was just thinking of adopting this feature as it will be very easy for CNC DIY maker using Marlin code to run a cycle in a loop. | [
{
"answer_id": 9897,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": -1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Wood stains (as opposed to dyes, paints, etc.) work by having large particles that become lo... | 2019/05/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9891",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16408/"
] |
9,899 | Does anyone know how the developers of Marlin decided to name it that? | [
{
"answer_id": 9900,
"author": "Greenonline",
"author_id": 4762,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Yes, it probably is totally off-topic, but fun too, so I'll try to get an answer in, before the question gets c... | 2019/05/11 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9899",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16426/"
] |
9,904 | **Model:** Infitary M508
**Details:** The filament is stuck in the extruder preheated for PLA (the filament is PLA 1.75 white). The extruder's motor works and the filament is in the hole of the extruder (not somewhere else). I took the fan covering the motor apart, to show what is inside, so you might see it on the attached image:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/znCxG.png)
You might also see this video for details: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8rYGhuYWvc>
I'm able to pull the filament out, when I uncouple the motor's gear, but it doesn't go through the extruder when I push it in.
What can I do to fix this? Thanks!
P.S. It's the first start of the printer. | [
{
"answer_id": 9905,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Unfortunately you're going to have to tear the extruder head apart and clean the nozzle. There are kits like the... | 2019/05/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9904",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16434/"
] |
9,915 | I have been looking to buy a new extruder. One of the options I have seen comes in "right handed" and "left handed". What does this mean? How can I tell what my current extruder is, so I get the right replacement? | [
{
"answer_id": 9919,
"author": "Rosalie W",
"author_id": 16308,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16308",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "This is an example of a right handed extruder setup:\n\n[![Right Handed Extruder Setup](https://i.stack.imgur.c... | 2019/05/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9915",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10422/"
] |
9,935 | During a print a lot of plastic ended up ripping the nozzle's yellow insulation strap.
Can printing without this insulation around the fusion chamber damage the printer?
If there is no chance of damaging the printer, how likely is it that the prints will be affected by the absence of this insulation
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYGI7.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 9936,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "No, without the insulation you can print without a problem. I've been printing for years with (cotton or silicone) an... | 2019/05/14 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9935",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12378/"
] |
9,953 | 3D Printers (those who print, not the machine, dummy)!
I haven't been printing in a while, so when I returned to my Monoprice Select Mini VII, of course it had been sprung out of whack. Some of my first prints would not even come out of the extruder until I realized I had some pretty bad (and worse, unnoticed!) heat creep going on. After fixing that issue, it became apparent that many more persisted.
My question for you all is this: In general, what problems should be addressed first when looking at a complete disaster of a print?
I'm not going to specify any singular problem, but I am interested in seeing the "order of operations" for general problem solving when multiple issues exist. For example, "Fix bed height before anything else; this is a common problem that produces multiple others." Hopefully, this can help others with multiple printing issues, too. | [
{
"answer_id": 9958,
"author": "darth pixel",
"author_id": 1211,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1211",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "for sure the answer could be dissertation or even a book because there is no simple way to address \"all\" issu... | 2019/05/15 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9953",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16475/"
] |
9,956 | I have a Tevo Tornado that I've outfitted with an official BL-Touch auto level sensor. I can see the bed probing run, and I can see the Z axis slowly adjust during x/y moves, so it's doing *something*. However, you can see that there appears to be a systematic tilt:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sacY6.jpg)
Any ideas what could be causing this? The bed, gantry and print head is tight, no wobble. Here's my start code:
```
G28 ; home all axes
G29
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
```
I have mesh leveling enabled with a 5x5 grid and correct probe offsets. The bed itself is on PETG printed standoffs instead of springs to eliminate any jitter. | [
{
"answer_id": 9960,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "The problem with the Tevo Tornado design is that the design is as such that the Z-axis is powered by a single stepper ... | 2019/05/16 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9956",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14300/"
] |
9,973 | I have a new Creality Ender 3.
I suspect that I have not adjusted the eccentric nuts correctly, on the X-axis head carriage mounts.
Even after a glass bed upgrade, using the Level Corners routine of the TH3D firmware, I can get the head to scrape a sheet of paper all 4 corners but that same sheet of paper does not then scrape the head in the center, unless I fold that paper in half.
I could understand this if the rail on which the hot end travels is very slightly higher at the side opposite the extruder. I have tried turning the eccentric nut on that side until the head does trap the paper, but when I then repeat the Level Corners routine, the gap at the center has come right back.
I already adjusted the eccentric nut on the extruder end because the wheels on the hot end carriage were showing an accumulation of brown dust in a ring around each wheel, which I heard was likely a sign that the carriage was "too tight."
So basically, I am messing around with the eccentric nuts at both ends of the X-axis rail, chasing two problems at the same time, but I don't really know what I am doing.
Recommendations? | [
{
"answer_id": 9978,
"author": "T. M.",
"author_id": 13841,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13841",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "This seems to be a common problem with ender-3 and cr-10 printers from Creality. Mine is the same way but not enoug... | 2019/05/18 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9973",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16495/"
] |
9,981 | I have been looking at getting some painters tape to use on the glass plate for better print adhesion, and everything I read suggests the *blue* painters tape, such as this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNCHm.jpg "Blue painters tape")
However, this white tape is considerably cheaper:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kp92s.jpg "White painters tape")
This looks like normal masking tape to me.
Is masking tape ok, or is the blue painter's tape preferable? If the latter, then why is that so? What is so special about the blue tape? Is it a different material? | [
{
"answer_id": 9983,
"author": "darth pixel",
"author_id": 1211,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1211",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "Of course, I don't know what kind of tapes you have. My experience with blue tapes is, that they seem in general... | 2019/05/20 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9981",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762/"
] |
9,989 | I made a simple logo using Inkscape, after saving as an svg file, but when I export that file into Fusion 360 something strange happened.
Multiple times I convert some images (png, svg) to svg file. The process I use is this:
1. Scan logo image (scanner or smartphone)
2. Open image with Inkscape
3. Using the stroke, generate the shape
4. All process for generate and save
This process explained above always works for me, when I copy the shape using the *stroke* in Inkscape.
However, when I was do the process using the *shape generator* - for example, rectangles, circles, squares, etc. - and export the file into the Fusion 360, it doesn't work.
### 1 - Inkscape logo
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eA3Wz.png "Inkscape")
### 2 - Logo import to Fusion 360
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vskK.png "Import into Fusion 360")
In the example above, the first word does not appear. | [
{
"answer_id": 9983,
"author": "darth pixel",
"author_id": 1211,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1211",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "Of course, I don't know what kind of tapes you have. My experience with blue tapes is, that they seem in general... | 2019/05/20 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9989",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12715/"
] |
9,991 | I’m designing a part that will need to be autoclaved—it will be under steam at 121°C for about 15 min per job and I will want it to be able to go through the autoclave repeatedly. I ran a test PLA part through the autoclave and it warped noticeably; based on their glass transition temperatures, ABS (105ºC) and PETG (80ºC) would probably also not hold up. For a consumer-grade FDM printer, what filament materials that could be used for parts that could be autoclaved? | [
{
"answer_id": 9999,
"author": "Alex Szatmary",
"author_id": 16450,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16450",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "It might seem that common 3D printer materials such as PLA and ABS should be capable of being autoclaved—unf... | 2019/05/20 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9991",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16450/"
] |
10,010 | I am using LightBurn to laser engrave on wood. I am just trying to print some letters.
In the softwares preview the output looks correct. The black part is where the laser should burn and the red part are traversal/scan lines
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLs8P.png)
When i actually print it the negative space is burnt by the laser (basically where the traversal/scan lines are shown in the preview above)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjRPw.png)
---
What I was able to figure out is that:
* `M42 P4 S255` properly turns on the laser when I send this command on its own,
* `M42 P4 S0` properly turns off the laser.
But the issue is when I send the following G-code, the following happens:
```
M42 P4 S255 <--- Laser turns on for a flash of a second
G1 X15 <--- By the time the movement starts the laser is already off.
M42 P4 S0
```
When i stopped using PWM (via the D11) and instead connected directly to D9 (which is for the fan) this issue stops occurring. So this issue is only occurring when I use PWM. Any Guidance on what to check
**Update:** I read the following on another forum. This might be the root cause here.
>
> M42 is an immediate command and would turn on the laser before it reached its intended start point, M106 and M107 are buffered so the on/off can happen in its intended locations.
>
>
> | [
{
"answer_id": 10287,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "This is too long for a good comment but may fall short of being a true answer. If the mods prefer, I can recast it as ... | 2019/05/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10010",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16492/"
] |
10,011 | I have been attempting to get my Anet to print for a couple months now. Haven't had a huge amount of time but when I have I've worked on it. A lot of the problems I have had I have been able to trouble shoot, for example for a while I was unable to get any filament to lay, and I have since fixed this issue. Now however my filament will extrude but it is very spacey, and not solid. I have tried re-calibrating the bed, un-clogging the extruder, and increasing the flow rate but nothing works. Is it possible that I have a bad board and that is causing my problem?
[ | [
{
"answer_id": 10046,
"author": "entropicCreator",
"author_id": 12706,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12706",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I had similar issues with my A8 at first. If it *did* work fine and now it does not, then it is not a fi... | 2019/05/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10011",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16549/"
] |
10,013 | Please check following image, Dog looks smooth from left side but its rough from right side , similar on back too.
What could have caused this ?
Can it be due to moisture due to Air Conditioner in my room ?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u3VOP.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 10017,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": -1,
"selected": false,
"text": "It is most likely caused by inadequate part-cooling due to poor air-flow. Fit a [better] part cooling fan. There are... | 2019/05/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10013",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16553/"
] |
10,026 | Can I use three-phase stepper motors with pololu style stepper drivers? If not, what kind of drivers support three-phase motors? | [
{
"answer_id": 10028,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "3D printers typically use bipolar two-phase stepper motors, and it is possible that Pololu-style carriers for stepper... | 2019/05/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10026",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16467/"
] |
10,035 | I've been playing around with PETG for the first time, and everything seemingly worked right just from the start - clean prints, no stringing, no bed adhesion problems, no warping or dimensional accuracy problems, etc. As expected it prints a lot like PLA, and as expected, it's less brittle/stands up much better to crushing/impact, **except** that it's really brittle when it comes to inter-layer adhesion. Vertical cylinders that were fairly strong in PLA just snap with no effort as PETG.
My particular PETG filament is Sunlu, with recommended print temperature 230-250 °C. I started out with 235 and am now using 250, which does somewhat better. I've used layer heights 0.125 - 0.2 mm.
Are these kind of results normal? Is there anything I should be doing to get better adhesion between layers? | [
{
"answer_id": 10036,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "What you describe is usually the result of using a too high of a part cooling fan rotational speed. Like ABS, PETG do... | 2019/05/26 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10035",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,038 | I'm struggling to get my printer up and running for a few days now. The problem is as follows. I got a test model of a cube (40x40 mm) and everytime I try to print it, the nozzle creates these 'lines' on the print which is caused by over extrusion I think? See image:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRtT4.jpg)
This goes on for every bottom layer and ultimately when it starts printing the infill the nozzle starts digging into the print and I'm forced to stop the printer, see image:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/S2tvI.jpg)
What I have tried so far:
* Calibrating my extruder (by marking 100 mm on filament and command extruding 100 mm, check difference and adjust E step/mm accordingly)
* Performed an auto bed leveling
* I even halved my flow rate in the slicer (Ultimaker Cura), this gave signs of under extrusion of the first layer but the second layer looks over extruded again
* Tried different temperatures in the range of 190-210 °C (I'm using PLA), made no significant difference
My settings and gear:
* HE3D K280 Delta 3D printer
* E3D V6 Volcano hot end (original, not chinese)
* E3D Titan Extruder (original)
* Marlin 1.1.8 using Ultimaker Cura as slicer
* Nozzle 0.6 mm, layer height 0.2 mm, print speed 50 mm/s
* 1.75 mm PLA
If anyone could help me fixing this that would be great! | [
{
"answer_id": 10039,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Your images look as if your initial nozzle to heat bed offset is too large. This causes the filament not to be squis... | 2019/05/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10038",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16522/"
] |
10,040 | I'm not really sure where to ask this question as I think it is a design question, but also a printing question. So if there is a better place to post, I'd be happy to harass someone else.
I'm (re)designing a sprinkler manifold for a dripper system because the stupid pegs for this [stupid manifold](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00M0UG9SK) are on top of the manifold, which is a prime spot for any old postal person/dog/raindrop to break off. Of course the pegs aren't sold separately so you have to buy a whole new manifold. Seems like a great use for a 3D printer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5VuH.jpg)
I designed a new manifold and decided the pegs were useful in case they broke off. I was thinking having them screw in would be a better design, but for the life of me I can't get them to actually screw in after I print.
[Here](https://www.dropbox.com/s/9cy2vbtc8r8j47g/MushroomManifold%20FO%20real-%20i2%20v4.f3d?dl=0) is the fusion 360 file.
This is generally what it looks like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gam5D.jpg)
And [here](https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1edw8pbpw64j20/MushroomManifold.stl?dl=0) is the resulting stl file.
After several prints, the pegs won't screw into the manifold base. I push and I turn and turn but the threads just won't bite. The 3/4" pipe threads fit just fine, so I know threads can be printed, but these pegs are stubborn.
I guess my question is, what's a good design for a peg thingy that needs to attach into a manifold, but also pass water? Should I try to replicate the cantilever thing they have going on, or is a screw better? Any ideas why my pegs won't screw into the base of my mushroom? This is my first attempt at 3d modeling so I'm not totally familiar with all the terminology, so any pointers there would be helpful.
Thanks! | [
{
"answer_id": 10044,
"author": "Carl Witthoft",
"author_id": 2191,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "If I may suggest a slight alternative: don't try to make the threads part of the 3Dprint. Instead, thicken t... | 2019/05/28 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10040",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16591/"
] |
10,059 | I've been aware ever since I got it that my Ender 3's X-axis isn't level. Measuring from the top of it to the top of the frame, the right-hand (positive) side is about 4.7mm higher than the left.
During assembly, the vertical rails were not entirely parallel, and had to be pulled together to get the X axis on and to bolt the cross beam on the top. I suspect this is related, but I'm not sure.
Anyway, aside from the bed having to be tilted to be level with respect to the X axis, this never seemed to cause any problem, so I've left it alone until now. However I have measured almost exactly a 1% dimensional error in the X direction that I've now compensated for by setting the steps per mm, and wonder if the tilted axis could be the cause. Doing the trig, that doesn't make sense - a 4.7 mm error across the width of the bed should translate to something like one part in 2000, not 1%. But maybe something's wrong in my analysis so I'd like second opinions.
Aside from that, is this something I should try to correct, or just let be? I suspect it's the base that's warped or tapped/cut incorrectly where the vertical rails bolt on, in which case it seems unlikely there's any way to fix it without replacing that part, which is something I'd rather not get into as long as the printer is working. But if there are other possibilities that are non-invasive to try, I might.
Further update: if this is the cause of the dimensional error (which turned out to be more like 0.41% than 1%, thus closer to plausible) I probably need to fix it. Using firmware steps/mm adjustment is not viable because it produces aliasing patterns in skin layers presumably due to step width no longer dividing nozzle size/line width. | [
{
"answer_id": 10082,
"author": "window",
"author_id": 16570,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16570",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "i've just bought an Ender 3 Pro and on assembly I carefully checked and deburred the uprigh rails on their bottom... | 2019/05/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10059",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,061 | After a few months of printing with my Prosi Mk3 (with plans to get a second one soon), I have been wondering about making my third printer a home-built one was a larger print bed than the Mk3. One thing I wondered about is perfectly expressed in the title question.
Are there practical reasons to **not** use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes?
I am certainly happy with the GT2 belts used in my current printer, but I wonder if the design might be simpler with lead-screws on all three axes. | [
{
"answer_id": 10079,
"author": "Jayson",
"author_id": 15179,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15179",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "Cost would be the primary reason. You can engineer a belt driven system that will be equally accurate, faster, an... | 2019/05/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10061",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13790/"
] |
10,081 | I have two Tronxy 2.0 V5 Marlin boards that reboot whenever heat is applied to the bed. The bed has been swapped (because I thought that was the problem) for a new shiny one. The thermistors, too, of course. The same boards (both) work when the beds remain unheated (setpoint = 0 °C).
Any ideas what might be causing this, or what I might do to figure it out?
Note: I really have no idea which Tronxy board this is; the "2.0" is stenciled on the board, so that's all I can figure out. I shamefully admit I tagged it with Tronxy x1 to see if I could generate any interest, and because a "Tronxy" tag is not available. | [
{
"answer_id": 10083,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "It sounds like a power-related problem. Always use an external MOSFET to drive a heated bed, and consider investing in... | 2019/05/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10081",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16512/"
] |
10,084 | I've got some curious marks on my heatbed.
It appears to be from my black Sunlu PLA+ (I can just feel it if I scrape my finger nail over it) but I can't scrape it off with the metal spatula.
When I try and print over it the filament won't stick.
Any suggestions as to what it is and how you get rid of it?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ofS5K.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 10104,
"author": "Nach0z",
"author_id": 16621,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16621",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "Edit: As Lrisb noted, apparently Prosi printers don't ship with Buildtak stickers like the other printers I've us... | 2019/05/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10084",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16617/"
] |
10,090 | Assuming you have a suitable oven to maintain temperature at the filament melting point and a suitable mold that can handle the temperature, is a commodity 3D printer hotend and extruder, with large nozzle, suitable for injecting material into the mold? I'm thinking of a setup like having the hotend mounted through a wall of the oven, braced against a hole in the mold inside the oven, and feeding filament via motor or manual cranking outside. Or is much higher pressure needed to make something like this work?
Certainly there are better setups to do this for manufacturing at scale, but the point of this question is whether you can do it with minimal setup effort and cost using commodity parts and filaments rather than needing expensive or custom-built equipment and material sourcing.
For relevance to the site in case it's questionable: certainly if this technique is possible, it could be used along with initial 3D printing of a design and using that to produce a (e.g. high-temperature epoxy) mold. | [
{
"answer_id": 10100,
"author": "Nach0z",
"author_id": 16621,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16621",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "Injection molding requires two major components: pressure and heat. So your question can be broken down into thos... | 2019/05/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10090",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,132 | I'm working on a cube in Bjoyder. I just deleted one of the faces (the top face) of the cube and added solidify to avoid non manifold edges.
In this case, when I check the design it shows that the bottom face is an overhang face (shown with yellow color). However, if I change the overhang parameter in 3D printing tool box from 45 to 90° and then check the model, it doesn't show any overhang faces and it seems that everything is okay. I don't think increasing the overhang parameter could be a good idea. However, this is my first time that I'm trying to design a model for 3D printing. Can this model with the overhang parameter equal to 90° be printed using a 3D printer? How can I fix the overhang problem in this simple model.
[![Bjoyder screenshot]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZuaF.png "Bjoyder screenshot")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZuaF.png "Bjoyder screenshot")
Today I tested another simple model. I used a fill circle and added solidify to the model. Although the model is really simple, check the model shows the same as the previous design - the bottom face is an overhang face. It seems that adding solidify to a shape leads to this problem. I don't know how can I fix this problem. Changing the overhang parameter fixes the overhang problem but it seems that this not a good idea for printing models.
Unfortunately, I can not test the print myself as I do not have a printer myself and I need to outsource the print job. | [
{
"answer_id": 10135,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Overhangs that are substantially greater than 45° to the vertical generally require supports, and overhangs of 90° wi... | 2019/05/31 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10132",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16632/"
] |
10,143 | I now own the Prusa3D MMU2. The benefits, costs, and experience others have had is well documented. I am interested in rebuilding my large, home-designed delta machine to be multi-material, and don't want to overlook strategies I haven't considered.
My original implementation used an E3D Kraken as the hot-end, and handled the inevitable delta tilt by adding two additional degrees of freedom to the head to lower the selected nozzle to the bed. I've been through three generations of mechanisms, and I think the third will work.
But, I feel that I am not seeing obvious and better alternatives.
So, the question: Through what methods and mechanisms can a multi-material (different polymers, different temperatures) FDM printer operate, and are there available designs or examples of best practices for those methods? | [
{
"answer_id": 10145,
"author": "Nach0z",
"author_id": 16621,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16621",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "One of the easiest ways that I've seen, which I'm a fan of, is simply putting Y splitters on your Bowden tube and... | 2019/06/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10143",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082/"
] |
10,154 | I understand that heater blocks act as kind of “low-pass-filter” on the temperature change of the hotend, but why do we need that?
Wouldn’t it be better to have as little metal as possible in order to be able to control temperature changes quickly and precisely (using PID, PWM plus maybe some predictions based on printed G-code)? | [
{
"answer_id": 10155,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I think the idea is to *not* change the temperature fast. You want it to maintain a certain temperature so you... | 2019/06/02 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10154",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16467/"
] |
10,157 | I am trying to run this 3D printer:
* Fabrikator Mini V2 Turnigy/Malyan M100
Does anyone have the Cura settings? | [
{
"answer_id": 10166,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I googled your machine name and found this HobbyKing page. There is a link here to CURA settings. \n\n[Page with CURA ... | 2019/06/02 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12878/"
] |
10,161 | I read that PTFE starts to deteriorate past 260 °C. Does that mean heating to 250 °C is no problem at all, or will that destroy the PTFE material over time to? | [
{
"answer_id": 10162,
"author": "Nach0z",
"author_id": 16621,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16621",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Degradation starts at 260 °C and shifts towards full blown decomposition towards 350 °C. 250 °C is technically fi... | 2019/06/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10161",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16467/"
] |
10,167 | I need to cool some liquid (250 °C) while it’s flowing through a tube which has to be able to bend and flex.
My idea is to make a flexible tube with a second tube spiraling around it through which coolant will flow.
I’d like to 3D print this tube if possible so I wonder if there is some printable filament that:
* doesn’t melt at 250 °C
* is flexible enough that it can print some tube that can bend (bending radius of 30 cm)
* optimally also has good heat conductivity
Is there any 3D printer filament available that has these properties? | [
{
"answer_id": 10172,
"author": "dagoth",
"author_id": 8826,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8826",
"pm_score": -1,
"selected": false,
"text": "3D printing nerd showed a couple of filaments that fits this in his latest video \"Printers at RAPID + TCT 2019\":... | 2019/06/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10167",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16467/"
] |
10,173 | I'd like to calculate the power lost through the filament being extruded (or in other words, at how many Watts I'd have to run an ideal heater that loses heat ONLY through filament so that it stays at constant temperature).
* Power is defined in Watts as $\text W =\frac{\text J}{\text s}$
* [Specific heat capacity](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Specific_heat_capacity) of a material is defined as $C =\frac{\text J}{ \text K \times\text{kg}}$
When extrusion happens, the filament of higher temperature leaves the hotend while the same weight of filament of lower temperature enters the hotend.
Let's say the specific heat capacity of the filament is $C$ and the extrusion rate $r$ is given with units kg/s. The temperatures are $T$.
Is it correct then to say that the power consumption of filament extrusion is $W = (c\times T\_\text{Nozzle} - c\times T\_\text{Environment}) \times r$
meaning that if I would run a heater cartridge at exactly "W" watts and extrude filament with rate "r" and the block would not loose heat through any other means than through the filament extrusion, then the nozzle temperature would stay constant? | [
{
"answer_id": 10174,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "This is very simply stated, in fact the specific heat is a function of temperature and state of the material (liquid... | 2019/06/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10173",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16467/"
] |
10,176 | I have a [WhamBam build system](https://whambamsystems.com/flexible-build-system) on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets slapped down for the print surface.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lplp5.jpg "WhamBam build system")
I have been printing PLA on a cold PEI sheet from Vertex, using 4 binder clips to hold it in place vs peeling the backing off and sticking it down. The print job wants to keep heating the bed to 60 °C, I turn it down, a couple minutes into a job it cranks it back to 60 °C and I turn it down again. A few times I missed the second turn on, and the PEI has been kinda warped now (or maybe it's just the plastic over the sticky backing), and has also peeled off some surface chunks in the middle, so we've been trying to print around the damaged section. The warping has now made the PEI unusable, so I'm hoping the WhamBam arrives soon.
We've been printing for a couple of weeks now (I printed a chess set, largest has 4 cm diameter and is 10 cm tall, some pieces on blue tape, some on the PEI) and are starting to venture into our own designs.
Intended project is box tops & bottoms that are ~90 mm x 65 mm x different heights with openings. We tried one on blue tape (a bottom with no openings) and ended up chiseling it off the bed with a steel putty knife (I don't recall if heat was on or not). We tried a top with openings on the PEI, missed that the heat had turned back on, but between the bed not quite level (forgot to re-check it) and the PEI being warped we killed it after the openings were printed around. It was not going to be usable, but we did print enough to be able to confirm the opening spacings (needs work still) so it was not a total loss. Came off the PEI easily (<2 mm thick when we stopped), we managed to miss the damaged parts mostly.
So the question: when the WhamBam arrives, is it better to print PLA at 60 °C, or do I keep playing the game of turning it down (and saving the waiting time of it heating up)? | [
{
"answer_id": 10185,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I print PLA on a PEI bed at 60°C. I have also printed PLA on an aluminum bed at 60°C with Elmer's Glue Stick for bondi... | 2019/06/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10176",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16523/"
] |
10,189 | Is it okay to directly connect together the grounds of the logic supply and the motor supply when using a Pololu style stepper driver?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yijCn.jpg "A4988 connection schematic")
If yes/no, why so? | [
{
"answer_id": 10201,
"author": "Perry Webb",
"author_id": 15075,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "That depends on how much noise you have on your motor power supply ground. You definitely want the 100 µF cap... | 2019/06/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10189",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16467/"
] |
10,191 | My printer has been doing weird things lately. It used to print fine, but now it's like the Y or X axis after a certain percentage time.
ie on a 24 hour print: it got off at 5 hours
on a 42 print it got off at 16%
Thoughts? | [
{
"answer_id": 10201,
"author": "Perry Webb",
"author_id": 15075,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "That depends on how much noise you have on your motor power supply ground. You definitely want the 100 µF cap... | 2019/06/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10191",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16624/"
] |
10,205 | Given a 3D boolean array representing voxels, how can it be converted to a 3D-printer-ready file?
The end-goal I would like to achieve is to print the 3D shape that the numpy array represents (`True` coding for *fill this voxel*, `False` for *leave it empty*).
For example, the array
```
[
[
[T, T, T],
[T, F, T],
[T, T, T]
],
[
[T, F, T],
[F, F, F],
[T, F, T]
],
[
[T, T, T],
[T, F, T],
[T, T, T]
]
]
```
would encode a [level-1 Menger sponge](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Void_Cube). | [
{
"answer_id": 10261,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "I agree with the use of OpenSCAD, but since it is difficult to program in OpenSCAD, I would use [SolidPython](https://g... | 2019/06/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10205",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16705/"
] |
10,207 | When I print with a 0.4 mm nozzle I have no problem with stringing at all but because I need a more detailed print I must use a 0.25 mm nozzle.
I use Ultimaker Cura and an Anycubic i3 Mega.
What i tried so far:
* Enable/Disable Z hop
* Tried different retraction distance and speed.
* Tried with lower temperature
* Different wall thickness
If you have any suggestion please let me know. | [
{
"answer_id": 10216,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "First, you should change the **nozzle diameter** setting, not just the line width setting, i... | 2019/06/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10207",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16707/"
] |
10,209 | I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (rebadged Wanhao Di3) with a microswiss all metal hot-end and machined lever and extruder plate. It had been printing very consistently for months with this set up - through 5 or 6 kg of filament - until a couple of weeks ago when it has started to under-extrude and then stop partway into a print, after about 30-40 minutes. It seems to clog and grind the filament, skipping steps. I first assumed this was heat-creep, and so disassembled the extruder, cleaned the heatsink and applied new thermal paste before reassembling, but to no luck. I also tried new fans on the cold-end but this didn't help either.
Other things I have tried:
* various models - point at which the extruding stops seems based on length of time printing, not z position, suggesting to me that it is not an wires/electronics issue or an issue with the file.
* various layer heights
* various temperatures
* dust filter
* various filaments (changing reels of similar filament, different colours and brands, although all PLA)
* cleaned, and subsequently replaced extruder gear to rule out wear to that
* inserted washer under lever spring to add tension
* clearing the nozzle (cleaning filament, atomic pulls and drill-bit)
I've now run out of ideas of what could be causing the issue and what to try. What other issues could cause the above symptoms or, if it is heat-creep, how else could I solve the issue? | [
{
"answer_id": 10212,
"author": "Perry Webb",
"author_id": 15075,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Have you checked your computers power saving settings, the USB port setting in particular, to see if your com... | 2019/06/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10209",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12718/"
] |
10,214 | I noticed foot arches are already digitized, but custom arch supports are usually expensive. PLA and ABS aren't the best material for printing arch supports, especially if they replace the shoe's innersole.
Is there a more flexible material for 3D printing that could be used for making custom orthotics? | [
{
"answer_id": 10215,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "The standard choice for this would be TPU, [thermoplastic polyurethane](https://en.wikipedia.... | 2019/06/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10214",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075/"
] |
10,229 | What grease to use on linear rails to make them stick as little as possible? I've tried so far:
* WD40 (let’s not start a discussion about that please),
* silicon spray and
* some bearing grease called ‘motorex’,
but with all of them the rails stick quite much and don’t slide as easily as I’d hope.
Can someone recommend some good grease for linear rails (specifically the hiwin type, 12-15mm)? | [
{
"answer_id": 10230,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "**Don't use grease**, it is better to use a **light oil** to lubricate the rods. A light oil will help flush out any... | 2019/06/11 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10229",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16467/"
] |
10,234 | I just updated my Maker Select Plus from the stock (I believe RepRap-based) firmware to Advi3pp, which is Marlin based. The printer starts up and everything seems okay, but I haven't actually tried a print yet and there was a message during the upgrade about deleting incompatible settings.
What do I need to do to recalibrate the printer following the firmware upgrade? | [
{
"answer_id": 10235,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "If it is Marlin based or RepRap based, many parameters are stored in EEPROM memory. A G-code command [M502: Read par... | 2019/06/11 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10234",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12562/"
] |
10,236 | How can I print an embossed image in a concaved shape?
Like a big saucer. I will use this an a mold for a project.
So far I've found lots of software with huge spread of features. It's sort of overwhelming. There is lots of ways to create images into 3D printable objects but to add the extra step and concaving that image is harder to find out.
How would you do it? I'm open to suggestions.
I'm new to 3D printing and would really appreciate the help. | [
{
"answer_id": 10237,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "What you describe, sounds like you want to create a lithophane; a pattern etched or engraved on a thin translucent b... | 2019/06/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10236",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16729/"
] |
10,238 | I am searching for a Linux software to control the 3000 mW laser engraver depicted below. It's a common model you'd find on AliExpress, Banggood, etc. under different brand names.
I have already tried [nejePrint](https://github.com/AxelTB/nejePrint), [LaserWeb](https://github.com/LaserWeb/LaserWeb4/wiki), and [EzGraver](https://github.com/camrein/EzGraver), but they don't work. Any ideas?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHoYY.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 10243,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": false,
"text": "A program that lists as functional with Linux is [Lightburn](https://lightburnsoftware.com/). It's new to the las... | 2019/06/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10238",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10684/"
] |
10,248 | I thought I have already had and fixed every problem one could possibly have with a 3D printer. Guess I was wrong.
I haven't used my Creality CR-10 for a few weeks, everything was working the last time I tried. Today I wanted to print something minor and the printer just randomly paused a few times in the middle of the print.
To be exact, it seems that after a few G-code commands have been executed the printer just freezes for like 10 seconds and then continues like nothing happened. This occurred a few times and every time the nozzle is melting the surrounding plastic and extruding a little which ruins the print.
I have tried:
* Print from SD Card
* Print from Laptop via USB connection to Ultimaker Cura
* Print different models at different settings
My theory is that either there is a core problem with how Ultimaker Cura exports the G-code files or something is wrong with the printer software. I thought that maybe re-installing the firmware might fix it but I heard that that is a risky process. What do I do? | [
{
"answer_id": 10275,
"author": "trialNerror",
"author_id": 16772,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16772",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I experienced the same with 4.1. Everything went back to normal after going back to 4.0 despite that all set... | 2019/06/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10248",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14345/"
] |
10,250 | Recently on one of her videos a YouTuber stated that prints from large format printers are more brittle than if you were to print them in parts and glue them together. This seems to contradict the testimonials from the customers of a large format printer, who say that they get good prints from those printers (which print have a print area of a meter square).
Would a print form a larger format printer be more brittle than a print made of smaller pieces super glued together?
(with all other aspects being equal e.g. the nozzle, the temps, the material and the shape of the object).
The YouTube didn't cite any source information to back up her claim. | [
{
"answer_id": 10251,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "If you break up a large piece into multiple smaller pieces and properly glue them together, you basically add stiffen... | 2019/06/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10250",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857/"
] |
10,259 | I want to print a flowerpots, for advanced watering system.
Plants are going to be eaten.
What is the most suitable material, when we consider the fact, that we do not want to just make forms and do clay flowerpots(which may seem most healthier), but having them directly printed.
What are the temperatures that makes plastics emit dangerous components in surrounding water, and what are those components?
Is there some "totally safe" material out there? I was thinking of PLA or PETG, because I've already heard that ABS is not safe for edibles. | [
{
"answer_id": 10251,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "If you break up a large piece into multiple smaller pieces and properly glue them together, you basically add stiffen... | 2019/06/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10259",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16594/"
] |
10,264 | I'd like some advice regarding defects on my print :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5x4u2.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CgUe.jpg)
Here some details :
* Printer CR-10 S, nozzle 0.4
* Material PLA
* Bed 60, Hotend 215, 50 mm/s speed
* SLiced with cura 4.1, 5 walls (i can provide more detail of the profile if needed)
* Layer height 0.1
* modeled on fusion 360
* The surface where the defect sits is actually tilted 45 degres
Thanks ! | [
{
"answer_id": 10251,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "If you break up a large piece into multiple smaller pieces and properly glue them together, you basically add stiffen... | 2019/06/14 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10264",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16756/"
] |
10,268 | In Ultimaker Cura, is there a setting to slow down just the first layer (or two layers) covering over the infill?
I'm not talking about the top layers, since you may have infill covered over during a lower section of the print. And I'm not talking about bridging, since this isn't a true bridge, and quick testing shows the bridge settings don't seem to control this. I'm also not talking about the whole layer, since you may have just a section of a layer involved with covering the infill.
What I want, is, whenever a print transitions from infill back to shell, that first section of shell above the infill (and maybe also the next layer going the opposite direction) should be slower.
What I've observed is this layer prints at the same speed as other shell sections, which can be too fast at this point for complete coverage, leaving a stringy section. This won't be visible later, but it does matter for strength and potentially quality; if expected filament isn't deposited it has to end up somewhere. Slowing down should help get a cleaner layer.
Can Ultimaker Cura do this? I don't care which version. For completeness, what about other slicers? Even if I normally use Cura, I might be tempted to use a different slicer that can do this if I have a part where it really matters. | [
{
"answer_id": 10270,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "As far as I know, Cura has no option to do this. Conceptually Cura treats the model as a sol... | 2019/06/14 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10268",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12562/"
] |
10,271 | I am working with Ender 3 Pro and in menu it has an option to cooldown. Is there any need to cooldown 3D printer before shutdown or can I just shutdown without cooldown? | [
{
"answer_id": 10274,
"author": "Perplexed Dipole",
"author_id": 11097,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11097",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "Depending on what material you print it it most likely a good idea to let the hotend cool down before s... | 2019/06/15 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10271",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16769/"
] |
10,272 | A fillet is like a rounded corner but on the inside of the corner.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDTnd.png)
Does it make a difference (structurally) to use fillets on a 3d printed part? | [
{
"answer_id": 10273,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "If your part needs structural support, then the word is: **absolutely**. Fillets provide the added support when... | 2019/06/15 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10272",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857/"
] |
10,276 | The print is very solid except for the 4 walls.
From the top, I can slide a paper down to the bottom. This is ONLY between the walls, the rest of the print is solid. The filament is PLA 1.75 mm.
But the bottom is solid, no gaps.
I have checked the usual problems on Ultimaker troubleshooting photo gallery, but I can find anything similar.
Any advice to fix this would be very welcome.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAJNf.jpg)
*Print settings:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvRFW.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYMH2.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnUB0.png) | [
{
"answer_id": 10283,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I've experienced this too, especially with flex modified PLA filament. For that, fixing unde... | 2019/06/16 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10276",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12878/"
] |
10,288 | We've been doing some printing with PETG filament on Ender 3 Pro printer and the result were awful:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0ej.jpg)
Here are settings we used:
* Extruder: 240 °C
* Bed: ~70 °C (± 10 °C)
* Speed: 80 mm/sec
There are a few types of problems that we had:
1. **Initially filament did not stick to the bed** - those 3 items in the middle of the picture are example of this issue. This got fixed by increasing temperature of bed to 80 °C.
2. **At some point a piece would get dis-attached from the bed and would move around together with the extruder around** - two prints in the upper right corner of the picture were cancelled for this reason.
3. **Models are very rough, like a cheaply made snowball** - that tiny model in the upper left is suppose to be a cattle-bell. Could you tell?
Additional info
---------------
Filament that we used indicated
* extruder temperature 230-240 °C
* printing speed 40-90 mm/sec
* no info about bed temperature
Question(s):
------------
* What are some optimal, tried and tested options for printing PETG? (Temperatures, speed, etc)
* What are some caveats/difficulties of working with PETG to look out for? (For example, I've read that PETG likes slower speeds. Is that true?)
* Is it possible that the model of 3D printer does not work well with this type of filament? (I don't have much experience printing so I can't know) | [
{
"answer_id": 10289,
"author": "Joel Coehoorn",
"author_id": 12562,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12562",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": false,
"text": "Slow down! \n\n80 mm/s is much too fast for PETG. Try 45 or 50 mm/s instead, even for infill, supports, an... | 2019/06/17 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10288",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16769/"
] |
10,298 | When printing objects higher than approximately 8-10 cm, sometimes nozzle hits the printed model and knocks over it. After 7-8 hours of printing that's really annoying. I'm using Creality Ender 3 Pro with Ultimaker Cura. How can I avoid this problem?
As a note; it happens with thick, wide models without support structure too. I'm using Ender 3 Pro's stock magnetic bed.
Here are some photos of printed model.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hIqg.jpg "Failed print - photo#1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNiG4.jpg "Failed print - photo#2")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y841k.jpg "Failed print - photo#3")
I use Esun PLA+, the part was on baseplate without any loss of contact. It was like one layer missed its coordinates and then all corrupted.
I think it's not related with bed adhesion because for example for this model, it didn't knock over the model.
There is no roof for the model, I think it doesn't need any support structure. [Here](https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/35/b4/84/0c/45/74441e4966d7cc6caac1adbd2795375f_preview_featured.jpg) you can see the expected finished one:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1nzR.jpg "Expected finished print") | [
{
"answer_id": 10301,
"author": "Timm",
"author_id": 16792,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16792",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "There are options in Cura to avoid that the extruder hovers over printed parts when traveling. There is also an opt... | 2019/06/17 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10298",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16714/"
] |
10,303 | I've recently bought myself a preassembled Prusa i3 MK3S printed and made my first projects. One of them was making a cup with my name on it. I want to use it to drink tea, water etc. I know, however, that I need to chose my filament wisely, as using the wrong one might be unsafe. I know that PLA for example is Polylactic acid which is a safe substance and occurs naturally in our body. Another thing is the dye, which can is a chemical substance I know nothing about. Do You recommend any specific type/model? Thanks. | [
{
"answer_id": 10304,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Answer was moved to this question: [Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?](https://3dprinting.... | 2019/06/18 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10303",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16798/"
] |
10,310 | In regards to a part that I'm having printed remotely (by two processes:- stereolithography and laser sintering), I've been advised by the 3d printing company that 'the triangulation of the file is rather rough'.
In this particular instance, it probably doesn't matter, but for the future, are there any tips to improving 'triangulation' when generating forms in AutoCAD?
Note, AutoCAD's FACETRES variable is set to 10. | [
{
"answer_id": 10311,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "The phrase \"triangulation of the file is rather rough\" is somewhat vague, but one can interpret it to mean that ... | 2019/06/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10310",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2419/"
] |
10,314 | [This video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIkT8asT90A) brought to my attention the 8 mm lead of the Ender 3's Z axis screw, which seems like an exceedingly bad choice from a standpoint of accuracy with respect to common grid alignments in the Z direction. In particular, with the stepper having 200 full steps per rotation, the 8 mm lead consumes all the powers of two out of 200, leaving 25 full steps per mm - and 25ths of a mm are not a typical unit that layer heights/feature heights are going to be in. It seems like a 5 mm lead would be ideal, giving you 40 steps per mm, evenly divisible by 3 powers of 2 and one power of 5, for exact tenths and exact eights.
Is there a motivation behind the choice of 8 mm lead? Is this common for other printers, and are there printers that use a 5 mm lead, or 5 mm replacements that work well? | [
{
"answer_id": 10315,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I've not seen trapezoid lead screws with 5 mm lead, you can get 5 mm lead ball screws though.\n\nOn one printer I us... | 2019/06/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10314",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,317 | I am printing a small cylinder, but when the object is finished, it's smaller than the measures I used when create the model.
I used thincerkad to make a simple model, the measures are:
* width: 90 mm
* height: 2 mm
After the print was done, the actual dimensions were:
* width: 70 mm
* height: 2 mm
### Pictures
First attempt
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESch8.jpg)
The smaller object that's in the drawn circle was the first one printed, the dimensions I used were:
* width: 110 mm
* height: 2 mm
Then I printed it again, and the result was:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAAPI.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 10318,
"author": "Perplexed Dipole",
"author_id": 11097,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11097",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "Are you using the stock firmware of your printer? Sounds like to me that you have 16 tooth pulleys and ... | 2019/06/20 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10317",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12715/"
] |
10,322 | Getting slanted or leaning prints when printing multiple parts.
I checked the eccentric nuts and belts aren't rubbing anything. All works well when printing a single part. But multiple parts:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4BUR.jpg)
What am I missing? | [
{
"answer_id": 10329,
"author": "Fox_89",
"author_id": 16813,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16813",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "*If you want a more detailed answer, you need to give more details, e.g.; \"What filament are you using?\" \"How ... | 2019/06/20 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10322",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16810/"
] |
10,327 | I've seen several questions about dyes in regards to food-safety, with no conclusive answers, as well as anecdotes on the RepRap wiki about how the mechanical properties of dyed PLA tend to vary by color. The general unsatisfactory answer is that dyes and additives used are proprietary secrets of filament manufacturers. However, 3D printer filament is a sufficiently large industry, with sufficiently many players now, that many of these "secrets" surely have to be "open secrets" to some extent by now.
What is known about what types of dyes and additives that tend to be used in filaments for 3D printing? Is there information on distinguishing between them with optical, chemical, etc. properties?
My thought is that by knowing some of the common dyes used by some manufacturers, it would be possible to:
1. choose those if interested in properties of them, and;
2. devise test procedures to evaluate if a different/"generic" filament seems to be using the same ones. | [
{
"answer_id": 10333,
"author": "Carl Witthoft",
"author_id": 2191,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I fear your supposition about *secret* --> *open secret* is too optimistic. Manufacturers are very unlikely ... | 2019/06/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10327",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,328 | I feel like I’ve tried everything. I’ve had an Ender 3 for seven months now printing in PLA.
I’ve modded it plenty including BLTouch. I’m now doing a project that really requires ABS so I have the white hatch box ABS. It wasn’t sticking at first but I got that well under control with glue tape and proper leveling with an enclosure. And I’m assuming this is important. I do indeed have an enclosure. Anyone I’m printing this part that has two long but thin-sideways protrusions coming out. Each one keeps de-laying at two specific points. I’ve tried everything including temperature and everything in Cura settings. I’m up to four failed prints now. I also tried other prints with the ABS and they also delayered in specific spots over and over.
Please help I’m close to completely giving up on my projects. The de-layerings are all the same with this one being the worse of them.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3MRr.jpg "Photo of print") | [
{
"answer_id": 10340,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Welcome Fox\\_89 to the SE 3D Printing site. Thank you for bringing your question, and I hope you contribute both ques... | 2019/06/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10328",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16813/"
] |
10,331 | I'm not talking about making something that's outright disproportionate of course. I've been working in Bjoyder and I've use Absolute grid Snap to snap my vertices to the grid. The problem is that it (didn't seem) to always work perfectly for centimeters, and seemed to work better for meters.
(edit: I've learned what the problem was and it was simply the placement of the vertices in side view, being at slightly different elevations. I'm going to emphasize that the difference was very slight. It was just enough to show up in the measurements. When I switched from front view to side view I was able to adjust the elevation to the grid and that fixed the problem.) | [
{
"answer_id": 10332,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "It depends on what you're working on. If you're producing mechanical/functional parts (even ... | 2019/06/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10331",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16819/"
] |
10,334 | Does anyone use "space saver" style vacuum storage bags to keep fillament dry? I picked up some Ziploc space bags, but they are larger than ideal. Would probably fit 2.5 spools. I would love a smaller version just big enough for one spool. | [
{
"answer_id": 10335,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I've read people are using them, makes sense, the less air you contain, the less moisture would be in the bag. Mysel... | 2019/06/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10334",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10422/"
] |
10,339 | Does anyone have tips on improving build plate adhesion in DLP printers? I've heard a thin layer of resin or UV glue applied to the plate will help, but we're not sure if we leave the resin/glue wet, or cure it before we start the print. Apologies for the ignorance here, but I'm just trying to avoid gluing my build plate to the bottom of the resin vat! Any advice would be appreciated.
***Update***
I had a product called ProtoGlass recommended to me in another forum, that apparently works as a good build plate primer for the resin we're trying to grow (BlueCast x5). Ordering today, and I'll update further with the results. | [
{
"answer_id": 15992,
"author": "ninja20",
"author_id": 27605,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/27605",
"pm_score": -1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I have heard that adding a few pieces of masking tape to the print surface improves adhesion."
},
{
"an... | 2019/06/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10339",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16821/"
] |
10,345 | I just installed my (v3) BLTouch with a vanilla version of Marlin (1.1.9) on my Ender 3 and everything seems to work fine (including auto home) except the probing. It repeatedly does the first three probes (successfully) but then tries the fourth and fails. Even when disabling the axis movement (X/Y stepper motors) the issue persists, which would indicate that it is not a bad connection or physical location dependent. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?
On second thoughts, it seems that it now fails inconsistently, so it is probably a wiring issue, although there is still the issue of it not retracting before printing and not leveling well when it does (although those issues would be more appropriate for a separate question), among other things. | [
{
"answer_id": 10358,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I've been through the [same sort of issues](/q/6959) and eventually found that it was attributed by the cable and co... | 2019/06/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10345",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16827/"
] |
10,346 | Note: The "TL smoothers" referred to in the question title are an arrangement of 8 diodes that presumably both provide a voltage drop to address the minimum current output issue of some stepper drivers described in [How Accurate Is Microstepping Really](https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/), and provide flyback protection and protection of the driver from currents induced by moving the motor in the unpowered state.
Now, on to the question:
I put together a simple test part to test Y (or X) axis microstepping accuracy:
Every 1mm in the Z direction, the face steps inward 1/80 mm (corresponding to my printer's [micro]steps per mm setting) in the Y direction and 1 mm in the X direction (to clearly show where the steps happen).
Here are the results (two runs, near-identical output):
Several of the steps are missing entirely, and it's the middle vertical surface, rather than the side two stepped-vertical surfaces, that shows a step-like texture.
Note that layers have been printed counter-clockwise, but the design with steps on both sides is to try to reduce the impact of print orientation so as not to depend on what the slicer decides to do. Print speed was 30 mm/s for outer walls, with outer walls set to be printed first so they're not affected by already-printed inner ones.
This looks to me like an indication that microstepping is not working accurately, and seems to agree partly with this article: <https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/>
Would TL smoothers improve this? My printer is an Ender 3, seemingly the latest revision at the time it was sold (December 2018) based on the bed and other aspects. Some threads I found suggested that this was a problem with older Ender 3s that was fixed in later revisions and that TL smoothers won't help, but it looks to me like it's not fixed.
Update: With settings adjusted for 0 jerk and 50 mm/s² acceleration in the outer walls, I got a somewhat improved result:
All steps are clearly visible, but at the reduced and more varying speed, artifacts of the extruder motor accuracy (or maybe just bowden latency) are much worse, and at the steps the "overshoot and bounce back" effect is still happening. Is this consistent with a situation where the TL smoothers I asked about could benefit?
Update 2: I've further tested with leaving acceleration at default (500 mm/s²) and just disabling "jerk", i.e. "instantaneous" change in speed. The results are at least as good as the above with slow acceleration. What strikes me most is that the "overshoot then bounce back" happens outward from the model on *both* edges, rather than inward on the righthand side where the (CCW moving) nozzle is turning inward. Could this indicate that there's no microstepping accuracy problem at all, and that the artifact is purely from excess extrusion as the corner is turned?
Updated pic (new one below):
 | [
{
"answer_id": 10358,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I've been through the [same sort of issues](/q/6959) and eventually found that it was attributed by the cable and co... | 2019/06/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10346",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,347 | I am using a new Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer kit. I print lots of things using PLA and PETG.
After a week of great performance I noticed that when printing some objects with PETG filament I often encountered a problem when there's **intense stringing, infill gaps, artifacts, the object sometimes detaches from the plate.** I use the Prusa Slicer and Cura and print with the temperature 230/90 °C, speed max. 300 %.This problem occurs rather regardless of which infill methods I choose. I see this problem more often when printing models sliced with Cura. Sometimes everything goes fine, but most of the time I need to stop the print due to the model collapsing, detaching from the surface, its parts collapsing due to infill gaps. The printer sometimes makes some 'clicking, cracking' sounds when printing with PETG. *My filaments come from Fiberology*.
Surprisingly, I have run the selftest, XYZ, Z calibrations and all the other ones without any errors. The wizard told me that the axes are perpendicular and it gave me congratulations. All the other tests went nearly perfect as well.
I do not encounter any problems using PLA, just with PETG. I try to maintain the filament properly (keep it away from moisture, in a closed box). Sometimes (rarely) **I get crashes. The filament often builds up on the hotend and I remove it.**
I do not know what to do, the build went very well and there are no errors, even though I am a new user and this is my very first 3D printer. I have searched the web and I haven't found people reporting this exact same thing.
Could You help me? What can I do to improve the quality of the prints, perhaps maintain PETG better **(maybe I'm doing something wrong) and most importantly, solve the problem**? | [
{
"answer_id": 10348,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "230 °C is way too cool for PETG and will result in underextrusion unless you print really slo... | 2019/06/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10347",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16798/"
] |
10,349 | I've always been wondering about the actual accuracy of 3D printing devices. When looking for the perfect machine to buy, I looked at the speed, price, filaments supported etc, but also accuracy. I once asked somebody who could give me some advice on what to look at.
One of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05 mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really?
Another thing is that the official slicers for those machines also claim that this precision is real, for instance the PrusaSlicer v2.0.
There are many high-end, very expensive machines and even they sometimes claim their resolution is worse than 50 microns. | [
{
"answer_id": 10351,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
"author_id": 26,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "> \n> One of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision... | 2019/06/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10349",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16798/"
] |
10,360 | To minimize retractions and travel when printing several objects, some slicers produce gcode for sequential deposition when each object is built in a traditional manner bottom up layer by layer before starting a new object. Of course, there are limitations caused by the hotend geometry [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZW17O.png) :
So bulky hotends don't allow for this trick to be used wen sequential pieces are closer than several centimeters. If there where hotends with minimal end effector geometry (needle like, much like drill bit on CNC) we might even do things like spiralizing contours of a single object.
This has also potential for other tricks like producing interlacing layers for better layer bonding etc. I wasn't able to find any ongoing work on minimal geometry hotends. Any links? And what might be the challenges in making one? heatblocks and heating cartridges are out of the question but nichrome wire and a fast PID heat controller might do the job. | [
{
"answer_id": 10364,
"author": "Sean Houlihane",
"author_id": 4927,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "The site is not well-suited to crowd-sourced invention, but the drawbacks to your suggestion are (I think) o... | 2019/06/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10360",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16841/"
] |
10,369 | In 3D printing firmware and slicers, jerk settings are expressed in units if mm/s. This is contrary the physical definition of jerk, which is in units of mm/s³, being the second derivative of speed with respect to time (or the third derivative of position). What is the reason for this discrepancy and how does one interpret jerk in this contect? | [
{
"answer_id": 10370,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "The jerk setting in 3D printing G-code and firmware represents a concept similar to, but dist... | 2019/06/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10369",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,371 | I've recently purchased a Makerbot Replicator Dual clone made by CTC. I'm in the process of upgrading/adding a few parts to it, but noticed that I can't control or print via USB.
The machine prints perfectly from an SD card and I can see information in the terminal from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint - Such as M105 - but can't send any .x3g files to print or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).
To clarify;
**In Octoprint**
* Temperature auto-reporting is working
* Can send M105, M27, etc.. & get response
* Can select .x3g files from the SD card to print & the printer starts
* Can upload files (.stl, .x3G, .gco etc..) to Octopi, but even the .x3g files wont actually start on the printer.
* Tried sending `M140 T0 S200` & `M106 T0 S100` which received OK response, but there was no change reported, or indeed actually happening with the tool
*Terminal Output from OctoPrint at connection:*
```
Changing monitoring state from "Offline" to "Opening serial port"
Connected to: , starting monitor
Starting baud rate detection...
Changing monitoring state from "Opening serial port" to "Detecting baudrate"
Trying baudrate: 115200
Recv: start
Send: N0 M110 N0\*125
Changing monitoring state from "Detecting baudrate" to "Operational"
Recv: Makerbot v7.4
Send: N0 M110 N0\*125
Recv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX
Recv: SD card ok
Recv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0
Recv: T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0
Recv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0
Recv: ok
Send: N1 M115\*39
Recv: ok PROTOCOL\_VERSION:0.1 FIRMWARE\_NAME:Makerbot FIRMWARE\_VERSION:7.4 FIRMWARE\_URL:https://support.makerbot.com/learn/earlier-products/replicator-original/updating-firmware-for-the-makerbot-replicator-via-replicatorg\_13302 MACHINE\_TYPE:r1d EXTRUDER\_COUNT:2
Send: M21
Recv: ok
Recv: SD card ok
Send: M20
Recv: ok
Recv: Begin file list
Recv: 2GB
Recv: System Volume Information
Recv: mesh\_bed.stl
Recv: xyzCalibration\_cube.x3g
Recv: CTCB\_3DBenchy.x3g
Recv: 3DBenchy.x3g
Recv: ActiveCoolingDuct.x3g
Recv: CTCB\_ActiveDuctD4\_UN.x3g
Recv: UK\_TROLLEY\_TOKEN.x3g
Recv: mesh\_bed.x3g
Recv: z-axis-support.x3g
Recv: bed-screws.x3g
Recv: spool\_nut.x3g
Recv: 2016\_spool.x3g
Recv: 2016\_spool\_no\_raft.x3g
Recv: ActiveDuctD4\_UN.x3g
Recv: Z\_Axis\_Support\_Ends.x3g
Recv: End file list
Send: M105
Recv: ok T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0
Send: M105
```
**In ReplicatorG**
* The software connects to the board via USB and recognises that it is a Mightyboard running f/w 7.4
* Reports that it is an unvarified board
* Cannot use the GUI control tab to send commands to the printer
* Cannot send sliced .x3g files over USB, console shows a time out error instantly
* Saving .x3g to SD card does work
Is my Mightyboard just a dud, or is there something I can do to try and fix it?
The reason I want to try and solve this now, is that I'm planning on adding active cooling and LED lighting control so don't really want to do all that just to find out that I need to replace the board soon.
---
### Additional info
Some information meaning that the current firmware and board is reported, as well as current temperatures of the extruders and heat bed. I can print .x3g files from the SD card, but I can't send G-code commands or .x3g files through USB.
I have just tried a few G-code commands through OctoPrint terminal with mixed results. `M105` works, `M140` & `M106` don't. | [
{
"answer_id": 10372,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "It is possible that your board has a cloned FT232R USB-to-serial bridge chip, and FTDI drivers supplied via the Windo... | 2019/06/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10371",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16855/"
] |
10,375 | ABS is a very strong material, but it also has some downsides. One of them, which is the necessity of having a printer with enclosure, completely discouraged me from using it, as it would be a waste of money. This is quite sad, because I cannot make prints that will be able to withstand a large load of tension without breaking.
Is there any way to print ABS without any enclosure? Maybe there are several types of this material and some are easier to print? | [
{
"answer_id": 10376,
"author": "Sean Houlihane",
"author_id": 4927,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "There is no requirement for an enclosure when printing ABS. Like many things in FDM, there are improvements ... | 2019/06/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10375",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16798/"
] |
10,384 | My anet A8 stepper drivers get very hot after some time printing, so I decided to install a 5V fan to cool them down. I had the idea to get a 12V to 5V regulator to connect a 5V fan, but then i found this image:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryeyj.jpg)
(source: [lokspace.eu](http://lokspace.eu/anet-a8-wifi-mod/))
It looks like the Anet A8 has an ICSP and Serial header that can deliver 5 or 3.3 V directly from the board. Is this correct? If it is, how many amps can i get from this pin? Can I connect a 5V fan directly here?
Thanks and sorry for my bad English. | [
{
"answer_id": 10385,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "5 V and 3.3 V are both [logic \"highs\"](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/logic-levels/33-v-cmos-logic-levels) i... | 2019/06/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10384",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16868/"
] |
10,390 | I've done calibration test with "Concentric circle test" (<https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11895>) and at specific points there are little bumped points on the print. Also Thingiverse page of the test mentions about these.
How can I solve this problem?
My printer is Creality Ender 3 Pro, I use Esun PLA+ with 210 celcius extruder and 60 celcius bed temperature.
Here is the printed object, both are same print, just took photo on different base.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/53vd2.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqnA7.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 10385,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "5 V and 3.3 V are both [logic \"highs\"](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/logic-levels/33-v-cmos-logic-levels) i... | 2019/06/26 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10390",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16714/"
] |
10,407 | I've never used a printer with auto bed leveling, but my understanding is that most or all of them don't actually level anything, but rather compensate for the unlevel bed in firmware by transforming the coordinates. It seems to me this would necessarily introduce aliasing artifacts in all your prints by making it so that line widths are no longer a whole number of microsteps - I immediately observed such an effect on top/bottom skin when I tried to use steps-per-mm tweaking in firmware to compensate for a dimensional error rather than fixing the mechanical source of the error, and concluded that it was a dead-end approach.
If the auto-leveling firmware only makes adjustments with the Z motor as it moves, rather than transforming all three coordinates, it seems like that would be mostly or entirely mitigated, but with slight errors in dimensional accuracy dependent on how tilted the bed actually is.
Do any of the printers with (or add-on kits for) auto bed leveling actually level the bed mechanically, with servos attached to the adjustment knobs? Why isn't an approach like that more common? | [
{
"answer_id": 10408,
"author": "Perplexed Dipole",
"author_id": 11097,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11097",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The rail core II does this by having a 3 separate stepper motor + lead screws attached to the bed. Alon... | 2019/06/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10407",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,410 | How should I describe this part which looks like a small gear so that I can research replacements?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/51BdD.jpg)
This came with my FLSUN 3D printer, which may be based on a Prosi design. | [
{
"answer_id": 10411,
"author": "K Mmmm",
"author_id": 10369,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "It is an \"aluminum timing pulley\"\n\n<https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&tbm=shop&q=aluminum%20timing%20pulley... | 2019/06/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10410",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369/"
] |
10,417 | My Ender 3, and I think lots of printers, have 4 bed leveling adjusstments, one at each corner. It seems to me that having 4 points produces an over-determined system, making it confusing to get the leveling right - adjusting one of the four may have little or no effect, but then cause a later adjustment elsewhere to have effects that violate a least-surprise principle.
Would it be better to have only three points? Or is the fourth necessary/useful with non-completely-rigid bed structures to add rigidity? | [
{
"answer_id": 10418,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Similar reasoning as for question [*\"3 vs 4 bearings for y axis travel\"*](/q/10231)\" holds. If you introduce a fo... | 2019/06/28 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10417",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
10,426 | I have issues with this overhang:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dMhQ.jpg "Damaged overhang")
The whole part always breaks in this overhang during the print.
I tried to increase the count of wall lines and decrease printing speed, but none of those things help. Do you have any idea how to fix it? Is possible to create support inside a model to print this overhang?
(I´m using Cura 4.1.0.)
I´m using 3 wall´s lines and 15% gyroid infill. My bed has 70 °C and nozzle 205 °C. I am using PLA Prusament galaxy black. The part is oriented the right way. By overhang I mean damaged part above holes. | [
{
"answer_id": 10445,
"author": "LucasN",
"author_id": 16900,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16900",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "As @r-ahlskog pointed out, it was due to the top layers count being too low. Adding some, now it looks perfect:\n... | 2019/06/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10426",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16900/"
] |
10,427 | I've seen conflicting advice on the correct printing temperature for Microcenter's house-brand Inland PLA+, particularly after a supplier change announced in April 2018.
There's an [official post from Microcenter](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/89grfm/psa_on_our_micro_center_inland_filament/), where they state that their PLA+ from both the suppliers they use prints best from 215-225 °C. (The label on the spool specifies 205-225 °C).
However, I've run a series of Benchy prints with recently-purchased white inland PLA+ at different temperatures (with a Lulzbot SL toolhead and 0.1 mm layer depth, slicing by Cura LE 3.6.10 after repairing the STL with [Microsoft's repair tool](https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net), movement 30 mm/sec), and my experience is very different:
* 220 °C has very severe stringing and blobbing, including blobbing on top surfaces. The text on the base is not visible at all.
* 215 °C has substantial stringing and blobbing, particularly on inside surfaces, but not on the roof of the boat (except the prow). The text on the base is partially visible.
* 210 °C looks very good; there are some tiny blobs on the nameplate and the inside door, and no stringing. This was the first one that didn't require a razor blade to remove from the PEI surface. The text on the base is very clear.
* 205 °C looks great.
Is something wrong with my equipment, such that it's printing with a higher temperature than it reads? Is Microcenter's advice off? Could I have a batch that behaves differently than is expected for the same filament in general?
More to the point -- what advice do others have to get good results with Inland PLA+? | [
{
"answer_id": 10430,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "A portion of information missing from the manufacturer's specifications and in the question is the print speed. Y... | 2019/06/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10427",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16371/"
] |
10,432 | I just set up a refurbished [MP Select Mini V2](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=29417) and tried to print the test file included by the manufacturer, `cat.gcode`, from the included SD card. I printed in PLA (I think; the unlabeled sample included with the printer) at the default extruder temperature, 190 °C. The print bed was set to 50 °C.
It appeared to print the raft fine, and then a couple of layers of the cat. At this point I walked away, and when I came back a few minutes later here's what I found:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuaCr.jpg)
The raft is still stuck to the bed, but the layers of cat that were printed fell off the base and onto the floor. Here's what I picked up off the floor, (next to the detached raft):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/omh6M.jpg)
The raft was stuck on the bed just fine, so I don't think it's an adhesion issue. The bed and the desk the printer is sitting on are both very close to level (things don't slide or roll off). There's no breeze and I'm certain nothing bumped or touched the printer while it was running.
This is my first attempt at a print so I obviously have no idea what I'm doing. I'm planning to set up a camera to record the next attempt. What other troubleshooting can I do? What is the likely cause of this problem? | [
{
"answer_id": 10441,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Your trouble lies within the presliced G-code: the temperatures are rather low for PLA and upping both by 10 degrees ... | 2019/06/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10432",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16902/"
] |
10,437 | I'm new to 3D printing. I modeled an empty bird in Bjoyder (the stl file of model is presented). I tested the model in Bjoyder (using 3D printing tool) and also the Netfabb software. They don't show any error. However, when I load this model in Ultimaker Cura for printing, as shown in the last image, the result is only a cylinder shape bird. I have seen many 3D printed empty models on internet. Why can't my model be printed correctly?
[the download link of the model](https://www.dropbox.com/s/ymhpc8c1qne1i2c/bird_model.stl?dl=0)
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EB3Tq.png "The top view of the model in Bjoyder")
>
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Xu4F.png "The bottom view of the model in Bjoyder")
>
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bVef.png "The 3D printing parameters in Bjoyder")
>
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fh4q8.png "The model in Cura")
>
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/evekb.png "The 3D printing preview of model in Cura")
>
>
> | [
{
"answer_id": 10443,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Slicers don't do well with \"empty\" (hollow) bodies, or bodies with secret holes in it. You need to supply a filled... | 2019/06/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10437",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16633/"
] |
10,439 | I'm printing part for a chess board from a set on Thingiverse, expanded a little to 50 mm square.
After the 3rd layer, I'm seeing what looks like raised ripples, and you can feel them with a finger too. I didn't see this when printing just 4 pieces earlier.
PLA at ~200 °C, bed is PEX/flex steel/magnet/AL.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9ZG.jpg)
The initial layer also had some streakiness (?) after the 1st layer.
Odd, as the bed tests out as pretty level using the paper under the nozzle test.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYaQp.jpg)
---
Looking much better now that the infill is starting. Will have to look into calibrating the extruder when this print finishes. Printed a 6 hour iPhone stand yesterday, turned out really nice.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/abdqo.jpg)
---
Top layer is nearing done (looks like top layer is finishing, then the lip to go for the edge of the board) and all signs of the rippling are gone.
Will check the 'level' again before we start on the light color squares.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Obcff.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 10440,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "It looks like over-extrusion. When layers are printed with 100% infill, excess material has nowhere to go and these c... | 2019/06/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10439",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16523/"
] |
10,459 | I've upgraded my stepper drivers.
I'm looking to understand why my stepper motors made noise in the first place. | [
{
"answer_id": 10462,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "To make a stepper perform a step, block signals are send to energize the coils to position the rotor. Such a block s... | 2019/07/02 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10459",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13482/"
] |
10,477 | Developing an electronic product for which I'll need an enclosure. It's about 50x30x20mm and should survive higher temperatures (50-60 degrees). Because of the low volume (under 500 required per year), I'd like to go for an enclosure option that doesn't require a huge upfront cost. So ended up at 3d printing. As the product will retail for around 500$, the surface finish needs to be up to a higher quality than the standard pla prints that I've seen. From my own research (3d printing noob), the best material for this would be ABS. Maybe with some manual polishing at the end. Then I'd either buy a 3d printer and do it myself or find a company to do it.
What am I missing? :)
Anything I'm missing? Thanks a lot. | [
{
"answer_id": 10478,
"author": "Joel Coehoorn",
"author_id": 12562,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12562",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "ABS should be able to handle the the temperatures you describe. ABS will have a similar finish to PLA when... | 2019/07/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10477",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16936/"
] |
10,483 | When I am trying to print something on my home made 3D printer, I can print the first and second layer, then the Bowden extruder's gear starts slipping; it cannot push the filament anymore,the gear is turning but slipping; the filament cannot go forward.
I tried all configurations of the tightening screw of the spring, corrected PID settings, cleaned the nozzle, tried with 200 °C up to 215 °C (I am using PLA) but no result.
I am wondering whether this is related to speed, feedrate and acceleration settings. The Slic3r puts automatically a feedrate as F1800, is this too high ? Do I have to change it every time I slice something? I might proceed with trial and error method but I need a more rational method.
Any suggestions?
---
The slicer I use (Slic3r) puts F1800 as speed. Is this too high ? Could this be a reason for the filament to slip ?
My filament's diameter is 1.75 mm. In the G-code file created by my slicer (Slic3r), the flows are shown as follows:
```
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.44mm (4.25mm^3/s)
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm (8.02mm^3/s)
; infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (10.69mm^3/s)
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.67mm^3/s)
; top infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.00mm^3/s)
; support material extrusion width = 0.44mm (8.50mm^3/s)
``` | [
{
"answer_id": 10485,
"author": "Davo",
"author_id": 4922,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The PLA isn't advancing as fast as the gcode requires. Since you've already tried higher temperatures, try printing a... | 2019/07/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10483",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16945/"
] |
10,486 | I am a 3D printing beginner but wanted to get stuck in straight away and design my own 3D objects. I used Sketchup to design a badge of one of my logos. I make sure that all faces of my object are not inside out and show a white face in Sketchup. I also make my entire object a component before exporting into a .stl file. However, when I import into Ultimaker Cura, the base of the object is red. This to my understanding means there is an issue with that face.I have played around with Sketchup several times by not creating a component, reversing the face and I still have no luck. When I reverse the base face in Sketchup so that it is grey, it then shows up in Ultimaker Cura as okay (not red). But when I 3D print it, it still prints it very strangely. I would like to note I am 3D printing with a raft and when I do not use a raft, the object prints fine. Also I have tested printing a small 3D cube with the same settings and the results are exactly the same. Surely you can design objects in Sketchup and print with a raft?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdSYa.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8seY.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 10491,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "Note: This answer is curently wrong because I mentally reversed your \"with raft\" and \"wit... | 2019/07/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10486",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16947/"
] |