qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
10,487 | When I print parts in ABS, acetone vapour smoothing is a good technique to get a smooth finish. Is there an equivalent solvent or process for parts printed in ASA? Ideally I'm looking for something as easy to obtain as acetone, and not so awful a chemical that I wouldn't want to work with it, but I'd still be curious to learn about less friendly solvents. | [
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"text": "[ASA](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_styrene_acrylate) is Acrylonitrile styrene acrylate. According to W... | 2019/07/04 | [
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10,488 | How can I write G-code for a triangle without sharp tips?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0hpu.jpg "Example of required triangle")
I want to generate the corners manually, rather than using a slicer to generate them, just to know how it is done. | [
{
"answer_id": 10494,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
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"text": "Marlin has `G2` (clockwise arc) and `G3` (counterclockwise arc) commands that could be used to do this. [Yo... | 2019/07/04 | [
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10,505 | Is there a specific name for that problem? What causes this, and is there a way how to solve it?
Printed with PLA, 2 mm nozzle diameter, 0.2 mm layer height, 20-60 mm/s, 200 °C extruder, 60 °C bed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSzrJ.jpg "Top")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCgam.jpg "Bottom") | [
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"answer_id": 10544,
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"text": "I have experienced this problem. This picture is one that I could have taken. \n\nIt has always been because I was put... | 2019/07/06 | [
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10,508 | I'm attempting to print some flexible TPE filament. But I failed to imagine TPE was this difficult to print.
Specs of the shop-brand filament:
Red 1.75 mm TPE (+-0.05 mm).
Hardness: 45D.
Print temperature: 220-260 °C with 0-95 °C bed.
I'm trying to print [this](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936797) on my original Prusa i3 MK3S with powder coated sheet with 0.20 mm layer with PrusaSlicer 2.0.0.
What happens? After 3 or 4 layers, the print warps a lot and detaches from the plate. The object is 40 mm long. The next image shows the print detaching from the build plate as well as a skirt of two layers height:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfIFS.jpg "Image of detached TPE print from build plate")
I've tried warmer/colder, more/less fan, faster/slower. I went down to 1 mm3/s, which is 7 mm/s. For reference, PLA prints 15 mm3/s.
I readjusted my z-cal, and when I test print a first layer with TPE it's difficult to remove from the bed.
I also attempted the glue stick on smooth PEI sheet. Worked until the first few layers of infill, then it still warped.
Do I have bad filament with too much shrink, poor settings or is this 45D just too soft for my MK3s?
*Bonus pile of failures:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVcO.jpg "Image of failed TPE prints from build plate") | [
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"text": "I have experienced this problem. This picture is one that I could have taken. \n\nIt has always been because I was put... | 2019/07/06 | [
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10,509 | I have started printing about a month ago on an Ender 5 (using mostly PLA but recently also PETG) and it seems it's about time to give the print bed a more thorough cleaning than what I usually do after most prints. I'm using the flexible magnetic mat that came with the printer which has a slightly rough surface, but all of the cleaning suggestions I found so far either did not mention the bed material or were specifically for glass beds.
Can/should I use stuff like acetone or rubbing alcohol on this? Or should I stick to warm soap water?
I have had some fairly decent results with spectacle cleaning tissues but that will only remove grease, not filament residue.
Also, I am occasionally having some first layer adhesion issues (especially with the PETG or when printing things with a circular base) and I was wondering whether common suggestions like glue sticks or hairspray to prepare the bed for printing can also be applied to the flex mat? | [
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"answer_id": 10511,
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"text": "I have the WhamBam system which uses a PEX layer over flex steel (which sticks to a magnetic sheet on the pri... | 2019/07/07 | [
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10,513 | I recently discovered this kit after reading this Instructables, [Adding More Extruders to Any 3d Printer](https://www.instructables.com/id/Adding-More-Extruders-to-Any-3d-Printer/):
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lq4uQ.png "New CNC Shield v3 engraving machine / 3D Printer / + 4pcs A4988/DRV8825/AT2100 Driver Expansion Board for Arduino")
>
>
>
I'm pretty sure I can use this kit with my board since it uses the same drivers as mine. But that's for motors, not fans. And while I know G-code pretty well, I'm not sure how I would use this to activate and deactivate a fan from G-code. There is probably a better way to do this.
The board I am using is from an FLSUN Large Scale 3D printer. Here is a picture of the board:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq8w1.jpg "FLSUN printer board")
There appears to be only one labeled pin for the fan. BUT even if there are other pins that I don't recognize, they would have to be controlled by a micro controller (G-code commands). There appear to be a bunch of un-used pins in the bottom right of the board. But if this board just can't do it, there is a newer board here: [link removed].
It does seem like it is using Arduino and the newer board might have extra pins for a fan. But at that point, would it be easier (cheaper) to just control the fan from the extruder extender kit? Would I just set it as an extruder with a really high filament extrusion speed and send appropriate G-code commands when needed to run it at max voltage?
I know on my Lulzbot Mini there is a "parts cooling" fan which allows you to cool off the layers as your structure rises vertically. This is a fan I want. The parts cooling fan *must* be controlled by the micro controller. It only comes on when printing vertically.
I would like to actually add two fans like this to my 3D printer. One of them is a >= 5 V cooling fan like above. Another is a regular 12 V cooling fan for an extra extruder that I am adding. | [
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"text": "The [MKS Gen L v1.0](http://www.robotrebels.org/index.php?topic=769.0) Board you are using does support microcontroll... | 2019/07/07 | [
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10,516 | My end goal is getting high quality dash footage from a 6 month road trip I'm going on. From my research, very few dash cams support 4k 30fps filming, and the ones that do overwrite their own footage really quick, so instead of that I'd like to use my iPhone. I have a wide angle lens for it, and I figure I can mount it to my windshield, behind the rear-view mirror.
But here's the problem: **there are no windshield phone mounts that allow for the angle I need.** They're all designed to point the phone screen at the driver, and the little ball joints that let you set the angle just don't work to point the camera straight ahead. I've tried like 5 different ones, and they all have this problem.
What I need is a solid thing that sticks to my windshield and holds my phone in the correct direction. Once stuck, it never needs to be adjusted. I think I could use 3M strips to stick something to the glass, so the only remaining part of the mystery is this: **A piece of plastic the exact right shape to hold my phone and point it at a specific angle.**
My question is: **Is this a good use case for 3D printing?** And if so, how would a complete amateur get started on this?
A few more requirements that I'm not sure if 3D printing can meet:
* It would need to withstand heat, as it would be left in the car on hot days in the south.
* It can't be too brittle, as speed bumps and dirt roads will knock it around a fair bit, and it has to support a large phone with an added lens. | [
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"text": "You'd [need to print in a heat resistant material](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6119/can-you-put-p... | 2019/07/07 | [
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10,527 | I recently installed an original BLTouch V3 on my Ender 3 pro and ever since I can’t seem to get a decent print. My first layers are horrible.
The install wasn’t so bad, I really thought it would be plug and play thereafter.
I currently have:
* Version 1.1.4 board with non silent steppers
* Marlin 1.1.9 with bug fix as per the teaching tech video
* Printing on glass, bed @ 60 °C, extruder @ 200 °C
I have checked
* Bed is level.
* X gantry is squared/straight.
* Belts seem tight.
* Tried my best at getting the Z offset right.
* Checked E steps are correct.
* BLTouch seems to be working - not 100 % sure as it’s my first time using an auto level sensor.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwByv.jpg "First layer view of print with BLTouch V3")
---
[More pictures here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9ogu.jpg) for those who can help.
---
I have reset the offset and still having difficulty I’m hoping the following pics would help. They bed level squares that prints squares on all four corners and the centre of the bed plate. If I raise the offset any higher I have difficulty with prints sticking. See [here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LBZeE.jpg).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOnxu.jpg) | [
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"text": "So the weird ridges around each line look like a form of over-extrusion that happens when your nozzle is too clos... | 2019/07/08 | [
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10,533 | This is a bit of a weird question, and I imagine the answer might simply be "no." But here goes anyway:
I'm writing some code that generates shapes for 3D printing via "implicit surfaces," i.e. a mathematical function f(x,y,z) that is positive inside the shape and negative outside it. This works pretty well for designing the kind of shapes I want to print, but the problem is, turning the implicit surface into a good mesh is *hard* - there are some libraries that can do it, but they're kind of finnicky and you have to play with parameters a lot to get it to work well.
But I was thinking: the only reason I need a mesh in the first place is to send it to a slicer, which will ultimately throw away the mesh and turn it into gcode instead. My plan was to do
`implicit function --> STL file --> gcode`
but I'm wondering if there are any slicers that will let me skip the intermediate step and let me just do
`implicit function --> gcode`
instead. That is, my code would supply a 3D grid of voxels, containing the value of the function at each 3D point, and the slicer would create the gcode from that instead of from an STL file.
It seems that Shapeways have a nice and simple format called [SVX](https://abfab3d.com/svx-format/) that is exactly this, but as far as I can tell, this is only supported by Shapeways and not by any FDM slicing software.
Another option would be for my code to supply a sequence of 2D polygons, one for each layer of the printed model, so the sequence would be
`implicit function --> big list of slices --> gcode`
This would be both easier and more accurate than first converting it into a mesh, and I assume the slicer must generate this kind of representation anyway, before it calculates the path for the print head to take.
I suppose the question is, is there an existing CAD format that supports either of these options, that is also supported by existing slicer software? If so then I can just write my code to output in that format and it should just work. | [
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"text": "No, not natively\n----------------\n\nTo the current point, all slicers in frequent use do use some kind of 3D model... | 2019/07/09 | [
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10,538 | Recently (in 2017) there was [a paper](https://m.box.com/shared_item/https%3A%2F%2Fumich.box.com%2Fs%2Fn9cvs27ckehdr64gzv5igtmboykymgk6) that got some publicity by researchers who are using a B spline algorithm to reduce vibrations in 3D printers. But before them, a B Spline implementation seems to have been first been made open-source by an alias named DeepSoic [here](https://hackaday.io/project/7045-splinetravel). I would like to be able to print faster using the method described in the [research paper](https://3dprint.com/195734/um-update-algorithm/), through post-processing G-code. I'm pretty sure these two sources use basically the same technique but I could be misunderstanding things.
Basically instead of stopping and starting for travel moves, speed changes are done in a curvy fashion, so the head never stops and the printer never shakes. This makes the print smoother and also faster. I think printing 10 times faster is something that is really awesome once you try it. Laser cutting relies on cubic splines for a different reason; to create curves in space. But it seems like these techniques are doing something unique to to 3D printing -- using them to adjust head acceleration/de-acceleration to create smoother movement arcs of the print head. Since laser cutters have a constant head movement, this technique wouldn't help them much.
The downside seems to be that it makes way more G-code commands, overloading the USB port, since it's sending all the points on a curve so quickly. I'm assuming a smart person today would really only use it through an SD card (which has disadvantages) or if they bought a 3D printer with a free Wi-Fi module thrown in (which also has disadvantages). Maybe a high baud rate helps.
I was wondering if there are any more established ways to use this obviously extremely important and beneficial and simple algorithm. Initially I was thinking that this is obviously something that should be added as a checkbox in a slicer, and not something to be implemented in Marlin. But after writing this post I realized that a Marlin implementation would allow you to use this technique over USB, but only if the slicer steedleaders are also using its special G-codes for this optimization. I don't care if it's a post-processing technique like the research paper's or a special Marlin-friendly version, I just want to use this technique even if I have to use this Huawei Wi-Fi module.
Basically I would like to know the best way to get started using this technique through a slicer or other software.
---
I think there is a miscommunication between users of CNC laser cutters and users of 3D printers. In laser cutting the arcs are used to define the path of the cut, which would be equivalent to filament extrusion. In laser cutting, the motion of the laser itself is constant. But in 3D printing, arcs can be used to smooth the speed of the printhead as it moves across the perimeter, and then to infill. It is using arcs for controlling the head well which isn't a problem in laser cutting. Since it's about the head movement, and not the model itself, I don't see how the STL file really matters.
It's really about using an arc to set head speed (a first derivative of position). Not anything about the shape of the model (which would just be position). At least that's my interpretation.
The Wi-Fi module is interesting because it receives an IP address from my router, then my router stops listing it as a connected device. But it still connected, because I can access it wirelessly. I am going to look into it more once I can fix some other problems with this dual-head. But so far there's a reason to think it might be backdoored. | [
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"text": "In more practical terms, you could design the part so that the corners are rounded (also known as fillets). Th... | 2019/07/10 | [
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10,540 | If a customer sends me a non-commercial 3D model to print, am I allowed to charge money for the 3D printing process? I understand I cannot charge anything for the model nor offer it as a part of my business.
I cannot download the model myself, print and sell it, but if the customer downloads it and sends it to me for me to print it, is it a violation of the license or not? | [
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"text": "In more practical terms, you could design the part so that the corners are rounded (also known as fillets). Th... | 2019/07/10 | [
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10,550 | Am just wondering if any conclusions can be drawn from this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RNE3.png "Photo of poor adhesion")
Three corners are solid, but not the one in the centre of the plate.
The bed was levelled before printing (and checked afterwards also). Even though the photo may *appear* to show a slant or lower corner (where the print is coming off), there is not. The bed is level, relative to the extruder, at room temperature.
The temperature of the bed is about 70 °C. I get inconsistent readings (with laser thermometer) but to the finger it feels about the same everywhere.
It's a glass bed, presumably with some coating. Is it degraded? Local temperature variation? Any ideas anyone? | [
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"text": "From here: <https://io3dprint.com/review-anycubic-i3-mega-ultrabase/>\n\n> \n> Ultrabase Bed\n> The Anycubic... | 2019/07/11 | [
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10,551 | How to successfully pause 3D printing and turn off the printer and the next day, continue to print the model? | [
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"text": "1) Cut the model up in several parts and print one each day. Remove each part every day and in the end, glue them ... | 2019/07/11 | [
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10,552 | So after a long print the walls in the print begin to weaken and it appears they might not be printed at all. In the upside down picture you can see the weakness where the two pieces are separated. I'm wondering if perhaps reducing my speed and changing the extrusion size from .35 to .45 which is larger than the extruder itself. Thanks for any help and suggestions!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3xt3.jpg) | [
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"text": "What you refer to as weak walls in fact are under-extruded walls. This can be caused by multiple sources, but, since... | 2019/07/11 | [
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10,565 | I am trying to slice a model that is half a mm less than max width, but not successful.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/puSzw.png)
What am I missing? Is there some minimum value less than maximum allowed, or something?
**Edit**: after changing the width to 220 in machine settings, slicing works. This is a dangerous thing to do, as it *could* damage the printer. | [
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"answer_id": 10566,
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"text": "Take a look at this post: <https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15588-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area/>. As ... | 2019/07/12 | [
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10,573 | I read that G-code commands can be sent through a console/terminal over USB. What is a console/terminal and how do you use that? | [
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"text": "There are several programs that could serve as a console to connect to a printer, put let's start somewhere: the USB ... | 2019/07/13 | [
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10,583 | I've been trying a lot of different things to combat corners curling upward in the first few tens of layers after the bottom skin. To be clear, I'm not talking about corners of the first layer printed on the bed, but rather the points of the outline in layers above the base where direction of print motion changes discontinuously (discrete corner) or abruptly (turn with very tight curvature). Here's an image I found (not mine) that demonstrates:
And a pic during print of the type of curling I'm talking about:
And some previous worse prints:
My go-to worst test case for this now is a 20mm tall hollow dodecahedron with 0.8mm shell (hollow geometry, not just empty infill; 0% infill on a non-hollow model does even worse, shown above). For everything else I've tried, I've mostly been able to sovle the problem with combinations of
* Improved cooling fan duct
* Lowered bed temperature or unheated bed (but this is a tradeoff; it seriously hurts first layer quality and increases risk of non-adhesion)
* Disabling Cura's overhang detection mode (non-uniform print speed causes a **huge** increase in the curling due to latency of extrusion rate response)
* Increasing motion acceleration limits or decreasing speed limits (also mitigating the latency in extrusion rate response)
but I can't get all 5 edges of the worst-case dodecahedron completely warping-free without just heavily slowing down the print; during print it's obvious that the curling at the corners in each layer is the source of the warping. Increasing Cura's `cool_min_layer_time` to 10 seconds (default is 6, and I usually get by fine with 3-4.5 for most things) mostly but not entirely solved it, and going much slower than that seems likely to introduce other surface artifacts from extremely slow extrusion.
Are there any additional tricks I'm missing for solving this? I'd like something that's easy to leave on all the time or at least to automate, as opposed to hacks like adding in a junk tower off to the side to waste time between layers.
My printer is an Ender 3 with stock gear except for improved fan duct. The problem was worse with the stock fan duct. | [
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"text": "Cura has an additional setting that you can make visible called \"Lift Head\". My recommendation is that you do t... | 2019/07/14 | [
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10,585 | So I am really fed up with inductive probes. The one I am using keeps getting shifted slightly every time I switch nozzles or run an oozy print. That means I have to autolevel again, then manually set a Z-offset (as I would have anyway if I didn't have an inductive probe).
On my Lulzbot Muvi there is a different scenario. There are four washers at each part of the bed. The nozzle is "grounded" so that when the Muvi touches the washers, a current is created that seems to act as the Z-stop. Surprisingly there isn't much out there for a DIY implementation of this.
Since I have an aluminum bed (and aluminum is conductive), I am thinking of doing the following:
1) Put one wire from the Z-stop ground pin to the aluminum bed. Make sure it is away from the wires for the heater / thermister (?)
2) Put one wire from the Z-stop 5V into the heating block of my nozzle.
When the nozzle probes the bed, a current will be created from the 5V heating block, through the conductive nozzle, into the conductive bed, to the Z-stop ground.
I'm always unsure when it comes to circuitry. Will there be any dangerous interference from this technique from, say, the bed heating circuit? I'm not sure what kind of protection circuitry are on each of the Arduino's pins, and I'd rather not fry my board if this sounds like a bad idea to someone.
I figure most people don't do this because they have sheets of PEI or some other non-conductive material on their bed. I can use PET tape but still leave holes in the tape for this autobed leveling probe. It would be really great if it worked and wasn't dangerous.
I shouldn't even need the third pin? | [
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10,587 | I have a model that contains a cavity, into which I want to insert a piece of metal, so I can use a magnet to stick to the print. How can I introduce a pause into the G-code without manipulating it manually in Ultimaker Cura? | [
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10,596 | How should I describe this part which looks like a threaded flange so that I can research replacements? It is the gold piece in the middle of each photo. It is used to create a bed raiser in the FLSUN Cube 3D printer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNRcM.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGmZd.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUqe9.png)
It gets attached to a motor using a flexible bearing | [
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"text": "To the best of my knowledge, it's just called a **lead screw nut** or **lead nut**. The flan... | 2019/07/15 | [
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10,601 | I would like to make a 24 V (3D printer board and shield) setup, as opposed to the usual 12 V, and to do so I had been considering using the Taurino Power board, or the clone Eruduino. However, I just found this board:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoUYh.jpg "Re-ARM microcontroller, with SD card slot")
The specifications state a DC input of up to 36 V:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UX1QF.png "Specifications")
Does anyone know whether that *really* means it can handle 24 V in the same manner as the Taurino/Eruduino? If so, then that looks like a double win: not only 24 V support, but also a faster processor. Anyone have experience with this board?
I was thinking of using with a RAMPS1.6 Plus (maybe), or just a regular RAMPS 1.4 ([hacked to support 24 V](https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v)). I'm just shopping about, and I thought that if I was going to spend £14 on an Eruduino, then I just as well spend that money on something better.
It does work with Marlin apparently, as some of the customer reviews would suggest, but none of the reviews that I could find referred to a 24 V setup (heated bed etc.), hence my question. | [
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10,610 | I'm making a hybrid 3D printer and circuit etching (CNC milling) machine that can both 3D print and etch prototype circuit boards. I'll be using Marlin firmware with an Arduino Mega & RepRap 1.4 board. It will have a 3D printer head and a milling head side by side. I'd like to have it be able to read both .gbr (for circuit etching) and .gcode (for 3D printing) files. How should I configure Marlin to read both types? | [
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10,611 | One of the main hacks for converting RAMPS 1.4 boards to use with 24 V, as stated in [RAMPS 24V](https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v), is replacing the polyfuses, principally `F2` (MF-R1100), with wire and using an inline (car blade or wire) fuse on the heatbed wire (or between PSU and RAMPS) instead1. However, that is for the RAMPS 1.4 boards.
As [RAMPS 1.5](https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.5) notes (as well as 0scar's answer to [RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5623/ramps-1-4-1-5-or-1-6)):
>
> The RAMPS 1.5 uses small surface-mounted fuses rather than the large yellow fuses prone to breakage on the RAMPS 1.4. The downside is that replacing the fuses becomes much more difficult.
>
>
>
Are these SMD fuses rated the same voltages, or greater? Yes, this could be a bit like asking "How long is a piece of string" as it depends upon the manufacturer, but does anyone know what voltage *should* they be rated for?
Ultimately, if they are both rated at greater than 24 V, then there should be no need to replace them.
The [answer](https://discuss.toms3d.org/hardware-f6/ramps1-4-or-ramps1-5-or-ramps-1-6-t481.html#p2786) on this thread, [Re: Ramps1.4 or Ramps1.5 or ramps 1.6???](https://discuss.toms3d.org/hardware-f6/ramps1-4-or-ramps1-5-or-ramps-1-6-t481.html) states:
>
> OK the ramps 1.6 can only handle 12v OR 24V
>
>
>
so, that would imply that the intention for 24 V support was there, although, unfortunately, the poster does not post their reference.
However, the [PDF](https://github.com/bigtreetech/ramps-1.6/blob/master/Ramps1.6/hardware/R6Schematic%20diagram.pdf) of the RAMPS 1.6 schematic shows the same rated fuses as the RAMPS 1.4
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbPML.png)
Nevertheless, that seems like a straight forward copy and paste from the RAMPS 1.4 schematic as it clearly references the MF-R500 PTC, and obviously SMD fuses have been used instead - or are the part numbers the same for the SMD fuses..? I had a google but couldn't see MF-R500 SMD fuses (maybe I didn't look hard enough?).
---
### Footnote
1 This is because the 11 A fuse is only rated to 16 V. Note that `F1` (MF-R500) is rated for 5 A at 30 V, and as such is sufficient for 24 V operation. | [
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10,622 | With Ender 3 is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when the printing finishes?
Or even with the Ultimaker Cura software?
I want this, because i'm going to put a switch on the top of the printer that will switch it off when the printer finishes (if i can make the arm with the extruder go all the way up when printing finishes.)
How can this be done? | [
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10,629 | I have a Duplicator i3 mini, which has yet to make it a month without breaking. This time it is extra broken because the filament is not extruding properly. the most successful print I've had yet had about a centimeter before turning into an absolute mess. I have a picture. It was not stringy, and had the exact shape i was trying to print, but was like a frame of a sort. I am printing with matterhackers MH build series PLA, which has worked before this started happening. What should I do? What troubleshooting steps should I take?[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZzyt.jpg) | [
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"text": "That looks like underextrusion as a result of a clog. Try cleaning the nozzle or replacing it.\n\nSee this lin... | 2019/07/19 | [
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10,632 | Using a Gearman RepRap with Slic3r, printing from an SD card, with an uniterupted power supply (UPS), and both PLA and ABS filaments, short power outages often result in x/y-axis offsets (see image). During an outage the power is not as clear from a UPS as from a power conditioner. If both x and y axes offset the results look like [Why did my print fall off its raft?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10432/why-did-my-print-fall-off-its-raft?noredirect=1#comment17398_10432). Are you experiencing these same issues? Have you solved the issue.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSUVd.jpg)
The image above shows an x-axis shift that occurred evenly across eight parts distributed across the bed. The filament was ABS. The parts still adhered to the bed. Note: the G-code file normally prints well. Thus, the file is not corrupt. | [
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10,636 | **Please Note:** This question is *not* about the design. It's about deciding print orientation *after the design*.
I have a small, but complex piece which I need to print. Here are two images of different orientation for you:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpi84.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FPuGb.jpg)
No matter how I orient it, it will require a support structure. Any which way I print it, I believe there will be pros/cons to doing so. My question is, **Is there a thought process for how to orient the part for printing?** What are some of the things to consider when deciding print orientation?
Note-1: For a size reference of the part, looking at the second image, it is approximately 60 mm from the top of the long bottom part with the two "claws" point down, to the top of the vertical piece which has the two larger chamfered holes in it. In the same image, the left part will be at the bottom when put into use, though will be suspended (the chamfered holes will have wood screws in them, with a block of wood on the other side from the chamfers.
Note-2: For this example, I will be using Priline PLA filament on an Anet-A8 printer. | [
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10,638 | When making a cylinder, sometimes I need to only take a pie slice. I'm currently using [this](http://forum.openscad.org/Creating-pie-pizza-slice-shape-need-a-dynamic-length-array-tp3148p3149.html) neat trick to make pie slices for angles under 90 degrees. However, I have need of a few angles over 90 but under 180 degrees. Is there a way to generalize/extend this to work for these bigger angles?
```
module pie_slice(r=3.0,a=30) {
intersection() {
circle(r=r);
square(r);
rotate(a-90) square(r);
}
}
pie_slice(r=10,a=15);
``` | [
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10,640 | The LCD resin printers I've looked at have pretty standard resolutions like for a smartphone and I understand they use the same technology. However, color LCD screens have three RGB sub-pixels for each color pixel. Check for example this magnified picture of an S-IPS LCD screen:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bml7t.jpg)
It seems like they could just omit the color filter and have three grayscale pixels for each color pixel.
3D printing just uses one color - UV. So why don't they have resolutions that are multiples of three of the usual resolutions?
All results about sub-pixels that I could find are about anti-aliasing, which is different (using the existing pixels better vs. having more pixels). | [
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10,647 | I'd like to add an extra motor to my board and I'm not sure where I went wrong. The motor will be used to spin a rotating wheel/carriage of potential hot ends to switch to. Because it's just a motor it doesn't need a heatrod or a temperature sensor.
I had just a MKS\_BASE 1.0 board, so I purchased a RAMPS 1.4 board from [Ebay](https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-Board-for-Arduino-Stampante-Reprap-Prusa-Mendel/303099940701?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) to be its extender.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucxb5.jpg "RAMPS 1.4 board")
(( \*\*Warning \*\* this board is cheap because it was improperly produced and is a fire hazard: <https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4> . I recommend using a CNC shield instead ))
This red board is meant to fit an Arduino Mega, but I figure I can use the extra pins on the MKS\_BASE1.0 and connect them with jumper wire to the RAMPS 1.4 board. It made sense in case I want to add other things to the original MKS\_BASE 1.0 board (like more hot end heater cartridges).
I connected the 5V and one GND pin from my MKS\_BASE 1.0. I also connected some of the SERVOS pins from the MKS\_BASE 1.0: D37 is the 'Dir', D35 is the 'Step', and D17 is the 'Enable'. I also connected the 12V power supply to the RAMPS 1.4 board too.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png "RAMPS 1.4 board pinout")
When it came time to modify Marlin everything was a bit annoying because although Marlin makes it easy to add more extruders, adding just motors is a little more difficult. I had to change the number of extruders to be 3 (from dual extrusion to dual extrusion + extra motor), enable an extra temperature pin (which i am leaving empty) and also modify the pins.h file.
I probably wouldn't have had simulate this motor as an extruder if I knew the raw Arduino commands for spinning a motor using calls to `D37`, `D35`, and `D17`, so I figured simulating an extruder would be better, but now I'm second-guessing that decision.
Here's my modification to pins.h:
```
#define E2_STEP_PIN 35
#define E2_DIR_PIN 37
#define E2_ENABLE_PIN 17
#define HEATER_2_PIN 17
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 3 in Configuration.h
#define TEMP_2_PIN 3
// Marlin 0-indexes these pins, so "2" is actually for the "3"rd extruder
```
First thing I have to do is allow for cold extrusions by using M302 S-80. The other (real) extruder motors will all move after this command, so I have that part working.. .
In Repetier-Host I am just selecting Extruder 3 and trying to "push filament" through it but the motor isn't moving. I'm using an A4988 stepper driver on a Kysan 1124090. Actually, I did this whole process with two motors because I wasn't sure whether the hardware itself would be an issue, so with another set of pins I'm using a Suncor Motor and it also doesn't respond and I also don't know why.
It would be really helpful to debug if I could run a single G-code command just to get the motor running at a speed, and take that out of the equation. it doesn't have to be a command to an "extruder" but just a command to a pin out, like `M42 D35 S100` (but I don't know the raw command for just testing a motor's connections). | [
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10,664 | Here's the thing I want to print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bgNK.png)
The red ring is 3.5 mm above the bottom of the orange cylinder. The red ring is 1cm thick. I'd prefer not to use supports because I tend to break as much as I clean up.
I know this could be done in two pieces but then I'd have to make sure the pieces fit and then glue it in at that's too much. It'd be ideal to print this as one piece. How can I do this with as few supports as possible? | [
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10,669 | Recently I have been getting some layer shifting starting at layer one. I have had layer shifting at higher layers due to various reasons but mainly for the belts being too loose. But now I am reading that layer shifting can also be caused by belts being too tight.
The [RepRap wiki](https://reprap.org/wiki/Shifted_layers) page for layer shifting simply gives the mechanical reason for this as "binding". Can anyone explain what binding means? I thought it meant that the rails were crashing into something but apparently it doesn't. Then I thought it meant that the X and Y axes weren't perfectly perpendicular.
Does it mean that the "teeth" of the belts stay "stuck" to the gear for too long when moving in one direction? Why would this happen in one direction and not the other? Because the pulleys/gears are at different heights? Or just because of the belts being tighter? Or one of these reasons?
Just trying to understand what its happening so I can debug it for my particular 3D printer. | [
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10,677 | 
I'd assume insufficient z offset but some areas of the first layer look fine. I've been struggling with this problem despite lots of attempts including z offset, infill overlap, belt retensioning, etc.
Anyone else experienced this type of issue and have suggestions to fix it properly?
I'm using polylite PLA and a E3D steel nozzle. 60 °C bed temp, 230 °C first layer.
Edit: Print speed is 30 mm/s first layer, 60 mm/s normal. This issue occurs on the first few layers then the rest get increasingly better, with the final layer being excellent.
Edit2: Despite lowering the temp to 205--210 and increasing the z offset downwards, the problem persists, though to a lesser degree. Just gaps at ends of infill lines and between straight and circular walls. But seems it only occurs on the lower left and upper right (birds eye view) of the print.
Edit3: The lower left and upper right being further from the nozzle coincides with my removal process using the knife on the lower left and upper right.. Maybe this part of the problem I'll have to bend back in place?
Nozzle bed measurements below:
Edit4: Optimizing the Z offset according to the first layer thickness remained only a partial solution especially as my bed unevenness (1mm+) was past the auto-leveling limitations (<0.5mm), but I found a great thread (link below) with a "correct" solution that worked for a lot of people! After I try this I will come back and write about my experience with the solution.
<https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7904&hilit=bed+leveling+SOLVED> | [
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10,680 | See the pictures below. I have a severe under extrusion when the printer starts the outer wall, which is resolved by the time it finishes the outer wall. It starts the layer in the same place every time, so it results in this vertical line, on one side of which is fine (where it finishes the layer) and the other side has bad gaps and the wall is much thinner.
In this picture, the problem is on the outer wall (see red outer line, the print head is moving counter clockwise.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcrn.png)
And here is the print showing the issue. Just fine on one side, but terrible on the other, precisely where it starts the layer. Strangely, this only occurs on the layers with infill. The top layers seem fine (despite starting in the same place). I have disabled retraction with no effect.
Here you can see it start at the tip and get gradually better as it progresses.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzzPE.jpg)
Here you can see that by the time it finishes, it's just fine, and also what a contrast is between the start and end. That should be a flush edge, there.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvFSs.jpg)
Another view
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qkZW.jpg)
Is there some setting that I should be tweaking? I've exhausted my own ideas of different tweaks to no avail.
The printer is a Monoprice Maker Select V2. I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.1.0.
---
* Material: PLA
* Layer height: 0.24 mm (in the pictures, but replicated with 0.16 mm also)
* Temp: 205 °C, here (but tweaking this hasn't had any effect)
* Retraction: Disabled
This doesn't happen on layer changes. Although it does line up with the Z seam, you can see from the G-code visualization below that the outer wall is the very last thing it does. The issue occurs at the start of the outer wall (still on the same layer) that it has the issue, but by the time it ends the wall (just before switching layers) it is fine.
I've tweaked a few other settings, one by one, and seeing if any have any effect. So far, not really:
* Outer Wall Wipe: 0.2 (default), 0.8, 0.0
* Jerk Control - Wall Jerk max velocity change, 5 mm/s
* Outer Wall before inner (Yes instead of No)
* Wall Line Count (3 instead of 2): This improves it some, but I suspect just by making it a little more difficult to see
What have I done since...
-------------------------
I reset all settings in Cura to a default "Draft" setting and then set layer height to 0.24 mm, and turned off Infill. Then I have tried prints with different settings for "Retract Before Outer Wall" and printing temperature.
Here are those results:
These pics seem to suggest a very clear lag in extrusion. 1 and 2 are different temps. 2 and 3 are different retraction.
205 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fX7K1.jpg)
195 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDMOa.jpg)
195 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: On
Note: the retraction setting resulted in a noticeable pause before printing the outer wall. Retraction distance is 6.5 mm, and this is not a Bowden fed device.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUyRn.jpg)
There doesn't seem to be anything strange about the G-code, either. Here are the `G0` travels just before the outer wall followed by the wall.
```
...
G0 F7200 X106.319 Y93.413
G0 X106.26 Y93.909
G0 X107.213 Y93.658
G0 X107.8 Y92.542
G0 X107.286 Y90.844
G0 X107.509 Y90.394
; (outer wall of outside)
G1 F1328 X107.985 Y90.707 E116.98713
G1 X108.38 Y91.128 E117.01098
G1 X108.658 Y91.623 E117.03444
G1 X108.813 Y92.18 E117.05833
G1 X108.832 Y92.751 E117.08193
G1 X108.713 Y93.315 E117.10575
G1 X108.463 Y93.837 E117.12966
; (first curve complete, on to straightaway)
G1 X99.631 Y107.716 E117.80936
G1 X98.912 Y108.59 E117.85612
...
```
Even more done...
-----------------
These are retraction off, and 205 °C
If I set the "print speed" in Cura to 20 mm/s (normally 60 mm/s), the outer wall speed is reduced from 30 mm/s to 10 mm/s. The result is quite good.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MUGcj.jpg)
If I leave the "print speed" at 60 mm/s and adjust only the outer wall to 10 mm/s, it's still quite good.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m07QN.jpg)
So it seems like an acceleration thing. If I can figure out how to get it to slow down in just the right spots or compensate in some way, then perhaps I can make this problem go away with minimal sacrifice in total speed. | [
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10,683 | I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface.
I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main contributor to the power consumption of a printer.
As I do see that bed heating definitely helps with the first layer adhesion I did not want to turn it off completely, but I did start experimenting with turning off bed heating after all solid bottom layers have printed (using the ChangeAtZ script in Cura) and so far I haven't seen any negative effects, especially no warping (I am usually printing with a brim or raft; I think that might also help in that regard).
Am I missing something? Why is *anyone* keeping the bed heated for an entire print? | [
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10,701 | My local library has a 3D printer (Lulzbot Mini) for patrons to use. The prints are limited to 4 hours and if I go after work I really only have two hours before the Library closes. The software at the Library will give an estimated time, but I would like to be able to estimate the time before I get there.
Currently I have been creating my designs in TinkerCad and then I export the STL file. From the STL file I can find online estimators that will tell me how much material but nothing that says how long it will take to print.
Is there a way of calculating the estimated printing time from a STL file for a given printer? | [
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"text": "There is no way to estimate the print time of an STL file directly.\n\nThe print time is based on the number o... | 2019/07/26 | [
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10,709 | I'm making a Circuit etching machine (CNC) and I need a good DC motor and drill bit for the spindle.
My machine should be able to **etch**, **drill**, and **cut**:
* **Etching**: take copper off the surface like chemicals or a laser would
* **Drilling**: drill holes for THT (through-hole) components and possibly 2-sided boards
* **Cutting**: cut out a piece of the board (cutting a big piece in half or cut a circle out of a big piece)
I'd like to have 1 drill bit work with all 3 functions if possible. Having to switch out different bits is OK but a single bit is prefered.
What sort of specifications should my spindle DC motor (rpm, voltage/amperage rating, ...) and drill bit (material, size, angle, ...) have? | [
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"text": "There are several sources of PCB \"etching\" bits. They tend to be single straight flutes and high angle, very pointy ... | 2019/07/28 | [
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10,712 | I want to build a 3D printer with a heating chamber of around 90 °C with build area 200x200x200 mm. I have never build a CoreXY system, so my design is currently an XY system with moving X motor (mounted on Y). Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor (there's a way, but I have to provide forced air cooling like NASA did, or water cooling). Extruder is Bowden type. I have already sourced almost all components, but I'm stuck at choosing the motor.
I could find high temperature stepper motor in India (that's where I'm from), but it cost too much. I [found one at the Visionminer website](https://visionminer.com/products/high-temp-motorx-extruder?_pos=1&_sid=7b5e5e603&_ss=r), they're the dealers for Intamsys printers, which has a chamber of 90 °C and they are providing replacement stepper motors as well.
Comparing the cost, the motor I found in India costs three times as above. Even with shipping I will save a lot. But one issue is they're not providing any details about torque and current rating. There's one image in the website and it says,
```
MOONS STEPPING MOTOR
TYPE 17HDB001-11N
60904162 18/04/12
```
I thought it might be a MOONS motor, so I contacted them, no reply so far. I tried to find the motor by part number, but failed. I tried mailing Visionminer as well.
Anyone have any idea which motor is this or know any high temperature motors?
Also they use Gates belts, which is rated for 85 °C. How reliable will it be in 90 °C chamber?
I will heat the chamber using a external heater with fan.
My extruder is Bowden, same as you've shown E3D V6, with updated high temp parts. Plated Cu heater block + Nozzle, High temp heating coil and Thermocouple.
But In my design X axis motor is moving one. I mean it's mounted on Y Similar to this [image](https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g-pOCmL_2Vm1df78jYKZNPT7aMvoe8Ke)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJ3qe.jpg "X axis stepper mounted on Y axis")
So it will be inside the chamber and I have to cool it somehow or looks for high temp motor
What I'm trying to print is PEEK, and it requires around 80-90 Degree chamber, and most stepper motors are rated for an ambient temperature of 50 Degrees. And I'm really planning to seal the chamber using SS sheet. It's going to be something like [Intamsys funmat HT](https://www.intamsys.com/funmat-ht-3d-printer/). What is the biggest print, I mean duration that you run your printer at 60 Degrees? | [
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"text": "\"Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor\" Sure you can, the interior doesn't get al... | 2019/07/29 | [
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10,738 | I was having some issues with printing, most noticeably in this picture:
The layers are very noticeable and sometimes have gaps, and the overhangs don't print very well (although the former is more of an issue). I just calibrated my E-steps so I don't think that is the issue. It was doing the same thing before I upgraded anything (i.e., I had issues on stock hardware).
My printer is an Ender 3 with the metal extruder upgrade (which replaces the plastic parts as seen [here](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07B96QMN2)), an E3D v6, printed fan duct (Bullseye), glass bed, BLTouch, and vanilla Marlin. Pictures of it are also in the below album. The printed upgrades were printed on a Prusa MK3S and don't have the same issue.
I am using Hatchbox 1.75 mm gray PLA, printed at 215 °C with my bed at 60 °C. I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.1 but was also having the problems on an older version of Ultimaker Cura (maybe 3.6, but I can't remember which it was). The problems also existed with some Hatchbox 1.75 mm black PLA but I used the same roll on my Prusa MK3S without any issues, so I'm not sure if filament could be the cause (although it is a different printer so it's still a possibility).
I have tried at different printing speeds and the problem still persists.
I also recently tried varying the temperature during printing (first up to 222 °C then down to 200 °C) with no noticeable difference.
Extra pictures [here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mgsiC.jpg).
Model is part of [Printable Scenery's sorcerer tower](https://www.printablescenery.com/product/sorcerers-tower/). | [
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"text": "These lines could be caused by a mechanical issue with the printer; it looks as if the positioning is not up to par.... | 2019/08/01 | [
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10,742 | I came across a new Steel infused PLA from [Colorfabb](https://colorfabb.com/steelfill). On the store page someone had asked, what happens if it was exposed to water, would it rust. I am actually, not sure what would happen. I am interested what the effects of leaving in the elements a 3D printed object made of the 2 most common type of fused materials.
1. Wood Infill
2. Metal Infill (not stainless steel)
Would it be preserved by the PLA coating it, or would, over time, rust and dissolve? Would the wood last forever, or will the print get discolored and become mulch? | [
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"text": "These lines could be caused by a mechanical issue with the printer; it looks as if the positioning is not up to par.... | 2019/08/02 | [
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10,767 | I'm doing some research on what types of LCD displays can be used to filter and pass UV light for resin curing - specifically in the context of building a DIY 3D SLA printer.
The community commonly uses the Sharp LS055R1SX03 module. Looking through the datasheet, there doesn't seem to be any information pertaining to the characteristics of the device when passing UV wavelengths. Is there something special about this module that allows it to filter/pass UV wavelengths compared to other common LCD displays? | [
{
"answer_id": 10777,
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"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I am not an expert by any stretch but I hope this helps, but these are regular old TFT LCD screens. You can even g... | 2019/08/06 | [
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10,781 | I recently bought a BigTreeTech SKR V1.3 and uncommented `REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER` and clicked the upload button but faced an error that says:
```
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: error: 'touch_buttons' was not declared in this scope
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: note: suggested alternative: 'buttons'
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
buttons
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:805:5: error: 'else' without a previous 'if'
else wait_for_unclick = false;
^~~~
*** [.pio\build\LPC1768\src\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp.o] Error 1
```
I am not sure what above message means, but can anyone else shed some light on why I am receiving these errors?
FWIW, I am using Marlin 2. | [
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"text": "There is a temporary solution which I have found here, on the reprap forums, [Re: Upload to the board fai... | 2019/08/10 | [
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10,785 | I just got my first 3D printer (Creality Ender 3) on Friday, 2 days ago. It works great, but for some reason I'm getting a lot of stringing on my prints, especially the ones where the extruder head has to move a long distance between columns/posts, etc.
I'm using Hatchbox "True White" PLA, which has a recommended temperature range of 180-210 °C. I've tried printing at 200, 190, and 185 °C and didn't see much improvement. I've also made sure I've enabled the 'retract' setting in the slicer (4.5 mm) and verified the printer is retracting when it should.
I'm not sure what else I can try... any suggestions? | [
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"text": "4.5 mm is a low retraction distance. Cura's default is 6.5 mm, and the Ender 3 profile provid... | 2019/08/11 | [
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10,789 | I have a Tevo Tornado Gold 24 V. I want to use this LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm with 6-36 V operation current as a Z probe. I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24 V into the sensor input.
What do I have is a 12 V, single channel optocoupler isolation module.
I want to know if this 12 V optocoupler module can be used with a 24 V power supply, or do I need another module in order to prevent me frying my sensor.
If I do need another what would I need?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxoYG.png) | [
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"text": "Not using a 12 V rated module *\"on its own\"*.\n---------------------------------------------\n\nUsing a 12 V/5 V o... | 2019/08/11 | [
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10,796 | I have been having some issues with my Cocoon Create Model Maker/Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini. The hotend doesn't get up to temperature.
I will go to any of the heating functions (start print, preheat, add filament, etc.) and it will begin to reheat the nozzle. The temperature rises until eventually, it stops at any number that is not the desired print temp and the screen freezes. Sometimes it will stop at 150 °C sometimes 180 °C. It all seems quite random but the screen is frozen when this happens.
If anyone had any thoughts it would be much appreciated. My last printer was abandoned due to a similar issue and it's incredibly frustrating. | [
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"text": "Maybe, the thermistor is not fully seated and does not measure temperature effectively. \n\nTry inserting ... | 2019/08/12 | [
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10,798 | Problem
-------
My CR-10 printer seems to be trying to print the model 4 or 5 layers too low. This means that for the first few layers, the printing nozzle is forced against the bed, preventing extrusion until the print reaches higher layers.
Outcome
-------
This results in the bottom part of the print having the internal structure visible and the printing head deteriorating. I had to remove the old nozzle because it was clogged up with what I believe to be some residue that was picked up during preceding prints.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUfsT.jpg)
*note: On this print, the top part is almost-well printed. It cannot be seen in pictures, but I say "almost" because the well-printed part is still much thinner than expected. This is the result of my purposeful mis-leveling the bed so that the part where the printer "homes" is higher than the lower part. I did this to see if there was any obvious bending of the printing bed. Doesn't look like there is.*
Fix attempts
------------
* I have tried to re-level the bed multiple times, but it doesn't matter as the "too low" effect is independent from the location on the bed.
* I have tried using the printer's built-in Z-offset but to no avail. This might be due to the fact that I control the print through Ultimaker Cura 4, so I tried looking for the Z-offset property in Ultimaker Cura and even though internet says it exists, I failed to find it.
History
-------
The printer used to work perfectly well and I do not remember having changed anything before the problem arose. I recently changed the nozzle and made sure to tighten it as high as possible but the Z-offset problem still persists. | [
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"text": "Did you verify the Cura z-offset actually changed the corresponding G-Codes? \n\nI had the opposite problem on my... | 2019/08/12 | [
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10,799 | I am trying to print a [12 hole Ocarina](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755765) I found on thingiverse. When printing I have to stop it around 25-30 layers because the edge of the shell is higher then the infill.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMrn5.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVHAO.jpg)
[G-Code of first 30 layers](https://www.codepile.net/pile/Z0Y3v986)
I tried changing the infill, wall size, speed and retraction settings to no avail. The settings of the example print were:
* 100% infill
* 0.2mm layer height
* 40mm printing speed (average)
* 1mm shell thickness (results in 2 layers)
* Automatic infill patern
* Printed at 210C with 3mm PLA ([like this one](https://www.conrad.nl/p/renkforce-pla300h1-filament-pla-kunststof-3-mm-grijs-1-kg-1093147))
* Printed on a RF1000
* Sliced with CuraEngine in Repetier-host V2.1.6.
Does anyone know what might cause this and how I can prevent it from happening?
Any help is greatly appreciated! :) | [
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"text": "Did you verify the Cura z-offset actually changed the corresponding G-Codes? \n\nI had the opposite problem on my... | 2019/08/12 | [
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10,803 | I have a dual-extruder printer with a separate heating element for each head, thus able to combine materials in a single print job even if they don't share a single temperature range.
Now the question: When (outside of using expensive dedicated support material or doing multicolor prints for aesthetic reasons) is this actually useful?
Of common printable filaments (PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, nylon):
* Do some of these materials work well (which is to say, substantially better than just doing a single-material print with same-material supports) as breakaway supports for others?
* Can some of these materials be dissolved in household solvents that don't harm others?
* Do some of these materials adhere to each other strongly enough (and have sufficiently similar profiles in how they shrink on cooling) to reliably generate finished pieces comprising of both? (Especially relevant for anything+TPU, where one might want to generate a design with some soft or rubbery components). | [
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"answer_id": 10805,
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"text": "The answers are \n\n1. yes\n2. yes\n3. probably\n\nWhich is to say, if you only want to use MaterialNumberTw... | 2019/08/14 | [
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10,820 | I've tried to remix this model: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90933> (Bauhaus chess set) by scaling it down and inserting little magnet holes into the pieces' underside. My SCAD file looks as follows:
```
difference() {
scale([0.5,0.5,0.5]) import("Bauhaus2Set.stl");
translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=20.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20); // WTH?
// King/Queen
translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);
translate([-6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);
// Rooks
translate([ 6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);
translate([-6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);
[...]
```
Note the third line with "WTH?" - I've done quite some trial-and-error, and if I remove that line, then I don't get any subtracted holes anymore when I render the whole thing (F6). In preview (F5), the holes are always present, but in the final render, I need to include the larger subtracted cylinder or it won't work.
The STL file seems to be fine in itself, what's going on here? | [
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"text": "It is interesting that the WTH line and the next line both should remove a cylinder of the same diameter from the same ... | 2019/08/19 | [
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10,825 | I've had my anycubic kossel for a good while now, and whenever I print something, it seems like it falls out of calibration very quickly. The biggest example is that the prints tend to scale up as the print progresses, or maybe the print starts to drift, and comes out slanted. This seems to never happen in any similarly priced XYZ printers. Why is this? Do XYZ printers just have an inherent advantage over deltas? Perhaps Deltas have some precision loss? | [
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"text": "(The XYZ Printers are called Cartesian Printers)\n\nDelta printers are harder to get right, because they requi... | 2019/08/20 | [
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10,830 | I have a print I need to make holes in.
I have read some other threads where the answers was in short, "don't, print the holes", and "make sure to make the hole from the top or bottom".
The problem is I need the hole in the side of a print with about 1 mm walls.
The holes I need is to run a USB cable in and a few to hold 3 mm LEDs.
One of the holes needs to be 10 mm.
What is my best option?
I read that there is a risk it cracks, so I was thinking maybe I can use a soldering iron for the smaller holes?
That will melt the plastic and create nice smooth walls, right? Less risk of cracks?
The piece will not be loaded in any way, it's just holdin it's own weight.
I never anticipated that it would be an issue to drill holes in prints. If I had known it I might have tried more to change the print before ordering it.
(I don't have a printer to make a new one with.)
**Note:** The part has *already* been printed. This is a question about post-printing processing, *not* modelling for a new print. | [
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10,839 | I'm trying to print a supporting base which will house the spindle for an electrostatic rotor. It's basically just a truncated cone with a hole down it's center to house the spindle.
For reasons that I cannot fathom, Ultimaker Cura keeps on adding an unrequested top/bottom layer (color-coded yellow in the screenshots) inside this hole, so instead of a single hollow cylinder of 10 mm depth, the result is a hole only a few millimeters deep with another hollow cylinder behind it.
Here is the intended model, note the open space for the hole at the top.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tUdBC.png)
Here is the inner view of the hole being printed as expected:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXV5x.png)
Finally, here is a layer view of the print a few millimeters from the final top layer with the unrequested top/bottom layer that covers the spindle hole:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8mn.png)
The STL file is on [Github](https://github.com/gearoid-murphy/3dprints/blob/master/spindle.stl) (with a built-in viewer).
Can anyone help me understand why this is happening? | [
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"text": "It would appear that your model does not conform properly to STL standards. I base this conclusion on a couple of ... | 2019/08/22 | [
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10,840 | I want to print a lemon squeezer and I would prefer to use PET-G. I don't know if it is safe to use, because lemons contain lots of citric acid. Does it dissolve PETG? I haven't found an answer anywhere on the Internet. There are generally few things that dissolve PETG. These are aromatic compounds like toluene, phenol etc.
I know my model will be food safe, as PETG is food safe, I'm using one without a dye and my nozzle is made out of steel, not brass. I think bacteria growth inside little gaps/between layers is impossible, because the citric acid is quite strong and will kill nearly all of the germs. | [
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"text": "According to [kmac-plastics](http://kmac-plastics.net/data/chemical/petg-chemical.htm#.XV7Vokd7m4o), PETG is stabl... | 2019/08/22 | [
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10,845 | I've been working on calibrating my Taz Workhorse, and was dealing with some under-extrusion issues, despite checking the e-steps on the extruder and relatively modest retraction settings (2.5 mm at 25 mm/second).
Lulzbot tech support suggested I boost my flow to 105 % to account for this, and the little Lulzbot gear that resulted was decent (note this picture is after some minor string removal).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nMzh.jpg "Lulzbot gear")
I tried moving on to a articulated Turtle, and there's a consistent failure at 17 %, where you can hear the nozzle collide with a part and knock it off the print bed, followed by the usual mayhem.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMnAi.jpg "Failed articulated turtle")
From looking at the parts, it looks like all the small joints in the piece have a lot of excess material in them, causing an upward arc, and eventually getting high enough that they're well over the height of the next layer. That's where the collision occurs, presumably.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXsoQ.jpg "Excess material on joints#1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNKaa.jpg "Excess material on joints#2")
What's the likely cause of this? The increased flow? Some other issue?
Other settings are mostly the Ultimaker Cura defaults, but I've also turned combing and Z-hop on (combing, especially, to combat stringing).
Print Settings:
* Lulzbot Taz Workhorse using Cura
* Polylite PLA 2.85 mm
* Print temperature: 215 °C (roughly the middle of the range, and where previous calibrations put me)
* Bed temperature: 60 °C
* Retraction: 2.5 mm at 25 mm/sec
* Combing "on"
* Z-Hop When Retracted "on" @ 1 mm
* Fan Speed: I've tried 60 % (default) and 100 %
* Print Speed: 40 mm/s
* Flow: 105 % | [
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"text": "No, the print does not fail on over-extrusion, it fails by curled up parts of the print as of a filament heating/pri... | 2019/08/23 | [
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10,847 | I'm trying to make a water insulated 1 cm3 (1 ml) transparent container and I bought some plexiglass, I cut and glued some pieces together but it looks really crappy and barely holds the water in. I was wondering, is there a transparent material (similar to plexiglass) that can order to 3D print the container out of it? Also, if 3D printing is not the best option, where can I order around a 100 pieces of 1 cm3 transparent water insulating containers with caps? | [
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"text": "Yes. You'll probably want to use SLA or Polyjet printers with transparent resin. For example, here's [Shapeways... | 2019/08/23 | [
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10,858 | I have an Anet A8 and have a problem with my first layer. I printed nice prints but starting today the first layer is tearing in the middle:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BiUc.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/L94tI.jpg)
Any idea how to fix this? | [
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"text": "The great pics really help with the answerability of this question. From how catastrophic the... | 2019/08/25 | [
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10,868 | On several occasions I've wanted lettering/numbering printed as part of a design, but with the ability to make it stand out more effectively in the printed object without having to do detailed manual finishing. Is there a good material which can catch in and fill sunken (depth 0.4 mm, width 0.6-1.0 mm) lines/strokes of alphanumeric characters without sticking to the surface (including fine layer ridges) of the print? My best result so far has been with crayon wax, but I wonder if there are more suitable materials. (Polymer clay, perhaps?)
Results with crayons:
Durability is nice (and essential for some applications), but for many uses I have in mind it's not such a big deal. For example another place I've wanted clear text is on test panels to check nut/bolt thread sizes, in which case the text is unlikely to receive harsh treatment but any heat-based curing processes might effect the dimensional accuracy negatively. So both durable and non-durable solutions are interesting to me. | [
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10,875 | I'm looking to 3D print a structure that won't deform in high heat, up to about 220 °C. The filament itself can be 3D printed all the way up to about 380 °C.
PEI seems like it could be a viable option. I found some [here](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/3dxtech-thermax-pei-175mm-05kg/sk/MHCFSNUC?rcode=GAT9HR&gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNsqaaSEcWYtaTv1rIwDKuWgI9xCyinqDgV7bYUUO3zX7-pIA0gDPSBoCclYQAvD_BwE). This PEI filament specifies the glass transition temperature at 217 °C.
Would this filament work? Are there any other types of materials that would fulfill this engineering requirement? | [
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"text": "Your expected operating temperature exceeds the glass transition temperature by 3 °C. This implies that the structure... | 2019/08/27 | [
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10,880 | I recently bought a 3D printer called Dreamer NX from FlashForge. The dealer told me to use FlashPrint software that belongs to the FlashForge printer manufacturer. But, many people advise me to use Ultimaker Cura. Are there many differences between these two software packages? | [
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"text": "The commonality of the 2 slicers is that both are developed and maintained by a printer manufacturer. The largest dif... | 2019/08/27 | [
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10,881 | On a budget, I'm water-cooling a 3D printer. I'm using a 5 V aquarium pump (\$3). Originally I tried to only use about as much water in a can of chickpeas but then found out i needed a lot more. I have a deliberate need to water cool stepper motors in the first printer, so that I can print with a high temperature filament like PEI (the operating temp of a stepper is maxed at about 53 degrees celsius; PEI requires an enclosure temperature of 80 °C), but on another printer I'm having some other issues with the motors that I think could be solved by better heat dissipation.
What I am getting to is a device like [this](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07DLQJKKC):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYx39.jpg)
It is the perfect size for a stepper motor. My plan is to zip-tie one of these to each stepper motor and water cool it in a single path across my printer, including the hot end.
Can anyone think of a reason why this wouldn't work? i just haven't heard of anyone doing anything like this, but it makes sense to me as a chemistry minor. The specific heat of water is way higher than almost anything else. And it is way less noisy than fans. And it works inside an enclosure, while fans might not
Should I ziptie the aluminum block to the back part of the stepper where the metal is, or to one of the darker black sides?
Would I be able to 3D print a cooling block like this instead of paying for it? See also [this relevant question on thermal conductivity of various 3D printing filaments](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11043/what-is-the-thermal-conductivity-of-various-3d-printing-filaments). It should probably be metal to transfer heat better? | [
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"text": "Your solution will not cool all sides effectively. Firstly don't use zip ties; get thermal tape.\n\n[![Thermal... | 2019/08/27 | [
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10,883 | A few minutes after finishing a print job, the filament is solidified in the nozzle and the nozzle-throat. When I start another print job a while later, the filament is not sufficiently melted and the nozzle is obstructed. Do I need to clean the nozzle after every print job ? or is there a practical method to overcome this difficulty ? | [
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"text": "Your solution will not cool all sides effectively. Firstly don't use zip ties; get thermal tape.\n\n[![Thermal... | 2019/08/28 | [
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10,888 | When go to export a model using Fusion 360 or Meshmixer, I see that there are two options. Could the final model be affected by the format chosen at the time of saving?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIEXt.png) | [
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"text": "I have experienced problems on occasion when using a binary exported Meshmixer model. The slicers used have been ... | 2019/08/28 | [
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10,906 | Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls? PTFE tubes melt with high enough temperatures and all metal ends risk jamming as heat makes its way up the head. | [
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"text": "Because PTFE doesn't transmit heat very well? The whole idea when using a PTFE tube (and this is just my under... | 2019/08/30 | [
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10,910 | I've just built my son's A6 and have connected all cables apart from the last power cables. The mainboard says hotbed line and extruder line but the cable says heatbed.
The cables are two red which are crimped together and two black crimped together.
All of the videos online show a different mainboard and connections.
There are more connections than cables because the wires are crimped.
I can't get my head around which wires go where, any ideas? | [
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"text": "The manual appears to be available here, [Installation Instruction\\_Anet A6 3D Printer - Elektor](https://www... | 2019/08/30 | [
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10,936 | You can see small gaps in the print which looks like under extrusion (see image below).
What is the reason for that?
I've tried smaller retracting distances. Temperature looks stable.
Print settings:
* PETG from Extruder
* 245 °C Printing temperature
* 50 mm/s print speed
* 25 mm/s wall speed
* 30 mm/s retracting speed
* 1 mm retraction distance -> stringing...
* Print cooling fan is enabled
Setup:
* E3D Titan Aero
* Duet Wifi
* 1,5 A Motor current for feeder motor
* 250 mm/s2 feeder max acceleration
Slicer:
* Ultimaker Cura 4.0
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXGPn.jpg "Small gaps in the print") | [
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"text": "Here's your problem:\n\n> \n> * 1 mm retraction distance -> stringing...\n> \n> \n> \n\nIf yo... | 2019/08/31 | [
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10,937 | I've asked a question before on the extruder gear clicking on my CR-10, but I'm certain its because of the nozzle getting clogged for some reason. I'm using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle with white PLA and randomly during the print the extruder gear starts clicking on the fast parts and then under extrudes the rest of the print, eventually the hobbed gear digs away at the filament and doesn't grip anymore. Why would the nozzle keep getting clogged? Could it be because the filament isn't high enough quality and is leaving particles in the nozzle?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/j83BN.jpg)
Additionally, when I performed a cold pull after breaking up the blockage on the inside, the filament came out like a thin film even though it was purging fine before I cooled it down. Why?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwXZl.jpg)
* 190 °C nozzle temperature (tried printing at 210 °C and the filament burned)
* 50 °C bed temperature
* 60 mm/s speed, outline 50 % - first layer being 30 mm/s
* 0.2 mm layer height
This starting happening after I returned to printing after a 6 month break, with the filament being stored in a cool and dry cupboard for around a year (the filament was on the cheaper side, but still highly recommended by SUNLU) | [
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"text": "Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament... | 2019/08/31 | [
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10,951 | I got my ender 3 about a month ago, it was working fine. Tried a new brand, overture, this is when I started experiencing problems. First, I was clogging nozzles left and right, then I went back to hatchbox, and my layers are messed up...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXuzX.jpg) | [
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"text": "Seems like in Movement without displaycement in x and y it seems to fit (neck-area).\nI also would check yo... | 2019/09/02 | [
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10,955 | Do we need mold release agent in 3D printing mold? If it is not used, what effect will it have on the product? | [
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"text": "Welcome to the 3D Printing Stack Exchange site.\n\nUsed in Casting\n---------------\n\nA mold release agent is commonl... | 2019/09/03 | [
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10,962 | I run quite a few Ender 3 Pro's using the same slicer settings (Simplify3D), and just recently I have noticed a very odd extrusion problem.
I find that at about the same height on several printers the printer under extrudes by quite a margin. After that, it either continues to under extrude for the rest of the print or it will go back to extruding proper amounts of filament with no problem. This destroys the print and makes it both structurally weak and defective. I am wasting quite a bit of PLA trying to fix this problem so any help would be appreciated.
Here is what I have done so far:
* I first made sure that the hobbed gear is clean.
* I tried extruding the filament with a very hot temp (240C) there were no problems here and the filament extruded fine albeit, it was not on the bed, just extruding into the air to see if the problem was heat.
* I tried the same thing as above but with a low temp (180) this also proved just fine again extruding in the air.
* I calibrated my E steps per mm, those are fine and accurate.
* I tried increasing my flow rate to 118%
* I tried switching to a different nozzle
* I tried switching to a different hobbed gear
* I tried switching the mechanism that pushes the filament up against the hobbed gear
That's about it. Not sure where to go from here so if anyone out there can think of anything I missed, I would love to hear it!
EDIT 1:
As per @fred\_dot\_u asked, the elapsed time at the layer of failure is roughly four hours in. I have also attached a picture of one example of this kind of failure below. I would also like to mention that this is happening on several of these printers as I have 18 printers running in one room. Our current theory is that the power draw is simply too high and so the printers are not getting the heat they need, however, the thermistors still register a solid 195C on my printers that are currently running.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7D32.jpg)
EDIT 2:
Here is another picture of a different model with the same layer failure problem but at a lower layer height. This model was printed along with 11 other identical models on the same bed, all of which failed at the same height.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bb3g2.jpg) | [
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10,972 | I am a fresh graduate student in 3D metal printing. My undergraduate major is mechanical engineering. Later research will focus on the process of metal 3D printing. I hope that you can recommend some excellent 3D metal printing books for learning. | [
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"text": "This is a free ebook that I have perused briefly which it looks interesting, and it is free (did I say that al... | 2019/09/05 | [
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10,974 | For the geometry I am making, I want to extrude each face individually along its normal.
This is a standard procedure in 3D modeling software like Blender; see Example 3 [here](https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/7365/extrude-faces-along-local-normals).
Is this possible in OpenSCAD? | [
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"text": "Extruding faces is only possible on 2D polygons. From a 3D object you cannot capture the face and extrude it. To ext... | 2019/09/06 | [
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10,980 | * Plastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day)
* Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day)
* Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1
I don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer settings to my knowledge, I haven't changed anything on the printers end, and I'm using the same filament I've always used. But for some reason, the first layer is simply not sticking. At first I noticed when doing a print the nozzle seemed a little higher than normal for the first layer, but then it started having problems where 0 % of the filament would stick to the bed and it would all just come off and turn into a mess. I've checked and checked, but I see no reason the printer would just start doing this now all the sudden when it's worked perfectly for a year now.
---
EDIT: Something I've noticed since posting this is that older sliced models seem to print just fine, which means there's something about the newser slicer settings that's causing it. I don't know what I would have changed though and/or how to restore to my original settings. | [
{
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"text": "There are 3 general factors about print adhesion you always have to keep in mind:\n\n* Have a sufficient surface for... | 2019/09/06 | [
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10,986 | We all know, that the best layer hight is, when you have multiples of full steps. If it is not, sometimes steps get skipped and end up bad layer-to-layer adhesion when one height step missed a tiny bit and then the next catches up, creating an extra-thick layer. For example, this was printed somewhat deliberately, and here, the extra spaced layers are perfect for delaminating the print with just a fingernail:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QwkYK.jpg)
The Ender 3 I have uses the following Z-Rod:
* Diameter 8 mm
* 4 flutes
* ca 13 Threads per inch
+ That is [according to the table](https://mdmetric.com/tech/tict.htm), a 2 mm pitch for *one* thread.
+ As a result, it's an 8 mm pitch for each of the 4 threads.
The firmware (Marlin) I use claims in `configuration.h` that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. `configuration_adv.h` tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.
In the printer's menu, Babystepping is in increments of 0.049 mm (though some rounding error seems to be there: 5 Babysteps are 0.250 mm). | [
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"text": "> \n> that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. `configuration_adv.h` tells that the micro... | 2019/09/08 | [
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11,003 | I've just done my [first print](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3709044) on an Ultimaker 3 Extended and I'm slightly disappointed with the results, so I'm trying to understand how I can do better next time.
My first print
--------------
Preparing for printing I naively just dropped the two `stl` files into Cura, set the recommended layer height and infill, selected support (defaulting to Extruder 1), deselected adhesion, ran the slice, saved the g-code and started the print running. Luckily the head 1 did have the same PLA AA 0.4 filament that Cura assumed.
When the print finished, I stripped out the support structures, cleaning out the hollow, and cleaning off lots of stringy loose filaments between the lower support and the bottom edge of the print.
Even after cleaning up though, the overhanging structure above the support structure turned out to be very rough with many individual filaments visible and in irregular positions, rather than the nice concentric lines in the slice.
My first attempt to optimise the print
--------------------------------------
Looking at the completed print I realised that there would have been only a fraction of the support structure, and probably clean edges, if the part had been oriented as a `d` rather than as a `p` (the rough surface being the bottom of the `p` overhang).
I re-ran the slice in `d` orientation and that saved 10 minutes of print time, and a 100 mm of filament, so I know I'll definitely need to look out for that in the future. I can also see how that would fix the problem with the external overhang separating out into loose threads, since that face would no longer be an overhang.
Trying to add water soluble supports
------------------------------------
After the first fix, I wondered what I could do with the second extruder and realised that it was filled with water soluble PVA filament. This made me wonder if this would have helped with the internal overhang.
I Configured Extruder 2 as PVA BB 0.4 and selected Extruder 2 for the support structures and re-ran the slice.
I was surprised that the it was now taking 40 minutes longer and using almost 470 mm more filament!
Looking at the slices, Cura had created a huge PVA scaffolding on the *outside* of the print, leaving the inside, where the previous PLA support had been, completely empty:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXOTE.png)vs.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ur5eG.png)
This was not what I was expecting.
Questions
---------
* Why didn't the slicing algorithm place PVA support structures inside the overhang, in the same way as it placed the PLA support structures?
* What is the reason for the external scaffolding, and how does it help support the internal overhang, which now has no internal support at all?
* Is the behaviour I expected possible, advisable or configurable in Cura? If so, what options should I be looking at, if not is there other software that does support this? | [
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"text": "Owning the Ultimaker 3 Extended and having printed kilometers of filament on this printer I can tell you that printin... | 2019/09/12 | [
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11,007 | I am having a few problems with my BLTouch. I have calibrated it several times using different methods and get the nozzle being 1.3 mm lower than the BLTouch pin so a Z offset of -1.3 mm. This works fine for auto homing, bed levelling and using code `G1 Z0` to lower to where needed. However when using Cura to print the nozzle homes exactly as it should then drives the nozzle in to the bed as it starts or tries to start to print and not just a little bit either. Anyone have any ideas?
Start G-code is:
```
G28 ;Home
G29 ;Probe
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move Platform down 15 mm
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
``` | [
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"text": "You should be able to offset this with a `G54 Z-1.3` - **if your setup accepts these gcodes**. \n\nIf you do this, al... | 2019/09/13 | [
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11,011 | I have ordered a dual hotend Cpemora and it came with 2x 12 V heater elements (in my rush I forgot to order the one with 2x 24V).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhQNem.png "Cpemora dual filament hotend")
Is it possible to run these 12 V heater elements in series?
*I am planning on running this with an SRK 1.3 board.* | [
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"text": "You should be able to offset this with a `G54 Z-1.3` - **if your setup accepts these gcodes**. \n\nIf you do this, al... | 2019/09/14 | [
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11,018 | The handle of a micro wave oven broke.
I can't just order a replacement part because I can't even attach the new one.
The problem is that the screw heads are somewhere on the interior side of the door, which cannot be disassembled (non destructively at least). I wouldn't even do it because of safety reasons.
I have access to the threads of two loose and captive screws to work with (indicated by the two red lines on picture one). The screws are not machine screws, but screws for plastic like in the attached picture.
The plan is to 3d print the plastic part of the handle and reuse the front aluminum cover.
I don't want the handle to be loose, so I'm looking for suggestions to attach the new handle. I have a lot of ideas, maybe I will share them later if they are not mentioned at some point. The main problem is: how to attach something when all I have to work with is a loose, non machine screw ?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZziLk.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QY4kK.jpg) | [
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"text": "You should be able to offset this with a `G54 Z-1.3` - **if your setup accepts these gcodes**. \n\nIf you do this, al... | 2019/09/15 | [
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11,029 | I have replaced the stock extruder on my Ender 3 with one of these:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wDmXL.jpg)
The grip gear has a smaller diameter, so I calibrated the esteps as per the top google search: [Extruder Calibration – 6 Easy Steps to Calibrate Your Extruder...](https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/)
If I set the esteps so that it's spot on with 100 mm of filament is used up when I ask it to extrude 100 mm, then during a print I get the occasional skip on the extruder.
If I dial it back a bit and set it so that it extrudes 90 mm of filament when I ask it to extrude 100 mm, then I don't get the skips.
In both cases the print looks normal.
I've tried changing the nozzle as well in case there was some blockage, but it doesn't make a difference.
Should I just go with the under extrusion? or is these likely to be some other problem that isn't apparent?
I didn't notice any issues with the stock extruder and the stock estep setting, but I didn't think to check the calibration. | [
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"text": "Consider that the extruder is skipping because it is unable to push filament at the rate you are requesting. By re... | 2019/09/17 | [
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11,038 | Contrary to a lot of other corner related problems (where the corners are bulging), I seem to have a different problem where the corners (ONLY) seem to stick out and appear blobby in the x/y plane. This only happens for corners/edges with a fillet radius greater than 3-4mm and only in the x/y plane. Anything smaller than that radius (such a sharp corner/edge) seems to be fine.
Any ideas what could be causing this?
**Conditions**
* CR-10s
* Ultimaker Cura v4.2.1
* Material: ABS
* Nozzle size: 0.4mm
* Bed temp: 80 °C (I can't go any higher than this)
* Nozzle temp: 250 °C
**What I've tried already**
* increasing nozzle temp from 240 to 250 °C (seemed to help slightly?)
* reduced flow rate from 100 % to 80 % - had a negative effect on overall print quality
Thank in advance for any ideas/suggestions
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Y91W.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6eWVc.jpg) | [
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"text": "150 °C is way too low for pretty much any material commonly used in 3D printing, especially ... | 2019/09/19 | [
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11,043 | **Thermal conductivity** is how well a plastic conducts heat. Most plastics don't conduct heat very well at all, which is what allows them to be 3D printed. That being said, there are a lot of potential use cases for highly thermally conductive filament, assuming you could print them. A commonly discussed one is computer heatsinks. Similar heatsinks could also be used for stepper motors and extruders in 3d printing.
To get a good picture which plastics are useful in such an application (like mentioned in question: "[Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10881/water-cooling-stepper-motor-with-aluminum-block)"), I need to know what is the thermal conductivity of the commonly used thermoplastics. | [
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"answer_id": 11044,
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"text": "All values are in W/(m\\*K).\n\n* PLA: 0.13\n* HIPS: 0.20\n* ABS: 0.25\n* PETG: 0.29\n* PEEK: 0.25\n* PLA with cop... | 2019/09/19 | [
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11,056 | Often, the pre-generated G-code is enough for start and end. However, sometimes we want to have something different. In this case: how to generate an audible alert of something like 4 bleeps at the end of the print, after putting the printer into the end position and when the bed has reached a "safe" 30 °C? | [
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"text": "Let's put the parts one by one:\n\n* Wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C: `M190 R30`\n* Play Bleep for 1/5th of a... | 2019/09/21 | [
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11,071 | Which of these will heat a bed fastest?
* A. 12 V, 10 A power supply
* B. 24 V, 5 A power supply
* C. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter)
* D. Depends on the situation
I originally thought Amperage was what mattered until I realized I needed a 24 V power supply to even heat my Lulzbot mini bed by one degree.
I know voltage is used to determine insulation thickness on wires. But thin wires with high current in them also get hot. Is insulation thickness on wires only to prevent you from accidentally cutting through them and shocking yourself, or is it for heat reasons?
I'd like to power my heated bed with a 19.5 V, 5 A power supply. It's just an old laptop charger - I want to reduce strain on my circuit. It's a big bed and I have a few other laptop chargers lying around so I'd prefer to choose the best one. | [
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"text": "It depends on whether you are re-using the bed or not, it is actually the resistance of the bed that determines this ... | 2019/09/25 | [
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11,079 | I just purchased an [Anycubic Photon 3S](https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-photon-3d-printer) LCD-based SLA 3D printer. I understand the need for cleaning and curing parts after printing. While the device is in transit, I'm looking to set up a workstation to use it with.
Are there any recommendations for accessories to buy?: Particular containers to store materials in, particular products for cleaning prints (or cleaning the machine), particular lamps for curing, etc.
I'm trying to avoid gotchas, and I've got time to visit hardware stores or make further online purchases before it arrives. I'm not asking about software or computing hardware, just things that I'll want to have "on the bench". | [
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"text": "I would recommend a tub for cleaning the print, some funnels to get leftover resin back into the bottel, glov... | 2019/09/26 | [
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11,081 | Are there any browser extensions or printers with OctoPrint built in that would allow me to print straight from the browser?
Thinking of a workflow like this:
1. Make something with Tinkercad (or other online service)
2. download stl or obj
3. select print from bookmark or dropdown menu
4. print is sent to printer and starts printing | [
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"text": "There was the [CuraEngine](https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/curalegacy/) plugin, but it's not really main... | 2019/09/26 | [
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11,084 | So I've switched the Trigorilla board in the printer with a SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers and installed the latest Marlin 2.0, with a config based on [this one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3741425/). You can find the [Configuration.h here](https://pastebin.com/ij1G5tSw), the only thing I changed in Configuration\_adv.h was the pin of the hotend fan.
Now when let the printer autocalibrate the delta settings, it tells me that the height is 141.35 mm, instead of the actual ~300 mm and I had to set the radius to 78 mm, instead of the actual 115 mm so that it doesn't try to probe outside the bed.
What settings could I have set so horribly wrong that I get these results? | [
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"text": "I would check the \"steps per distance\" setting. If the motors were moving more than the firmware thinks, the height ... | 2019/09/26 | [
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11,085 | I have an Ender 3 Pro which I use together with Cura 4.2.1 (and Octoprint). I print in PLA at 180°C. The print bed is set to 70°C. The Bed temperature is lower though, since I use a glas bed on top of the heated bed. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height is set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4mm from the 0.4mm nozzle. My retraction is 5mm at 50mm/s.
Prints come out with heavy vertical lines and no layer adhesion at these lines. I can easily break the print apart. In other spots the print is fine. Any ideas on what could cause this problem?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGGT9.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3ZZ5.jpg) | [
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11,090 | I have mounted two radial fan on my printer as a part cooling solution.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTeZ5.png)
As you can see, the fan has input on the left side and blows air down. Does a mirror construction exists? With outlet on the right.
I can even print my own casing, but I'm not sure if the fan will work, if I change the rotation direction.
I'm using this print cooling fan duct: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1850163>
The fan on the right side has the opening facing the hotend, and there is not much space, so the impeller can catch on wiring etc. If the right fan had opening to the right, there would be no such problem. | [
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"text": "<https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/120mm-Small-Squirrel-Cage-Exhaust-Plastic_653850349.html?spm=a2700.772... | 2019/09/27 | [
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11,134 | I recently installed a SKR 1.3 Board with a 3DTouch-Probe on my Creality Ender 3 Pro.
The probe works, `G29` does its magic, but:
If i issue a plain `G28`, the hotend first homes X and Y like before the Z-probe.
The probe is now next to, not above, the bed.
As the next step, the printer is supposed to home the Z-axis. The probe deploys and Z starts to lower until it smashes into the bed, because the probe misses the bed (if I don't stop it, that is).
I configured X/Y offsets for the probe, but they don't seem to be honored when performing the `G28` code.
If I home X/Y "manually" with `G28 X Y`, move the hotend with like `G1 X45 Y10`, then home Z with `G28 Z` it works fine.
What did I miss? Is this intended behaviour & the user has to take care never to issue a plain `G28`?! | [
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"text": "You need to enable the constant `Z_SAFE_HOMING` (like: `#define Z_SAFE_HOMING`) in your [printer configuration file]... | 2019/10/08 | [
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11,138 | Normally stainless steel is magnetic. But whenever i order stainless steel nozzles from Amazon, they are not magnetic. This makes me think they could be brass coated in something like aluminum. However, there are many types of steel.
I've attached an image of someone who reviewed these nozzles. He says they are not stainless steel because they are not magnetic.
But whenever I order "stainless steel" nozzles, even from other sellers, they are not magnetic. i already returned one pack from another seller and just received a nonmagnetic one from a third seller.
So that's it? Amazon just sells junk now? Or is there a way I can easily tell whether these are something other than colored brass / good for abrasive or high temp printing. Here is the product that was reviewed:
AUSTOR 13 Pieces Stainless Steel 3D Printer Nozzles 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm, 0.8 mm, 1.0 mm Extruder Nozzle Print Head for E3D Makerbot [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHZMGRH/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_i\_XtrNDbRMVH8SW](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CHZMGRH) | [
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"text": "Stainless steel is created by adding elements (usually Chromium, but also Nickel) to steel. These added elements for... | 2019/10/08 | [
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11,144 | I want to make Polyurethane molds for **concrete** using 3D printed PLA or ABS master object. like this video:
(this video is not about concrete of course!)
I'm not sure if it will stick to PLA or ABS master or not! if it does stick, whick wax material can solve this problem... Do I need to print my masters with another filament?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGMR5.jpg) | [
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"text": "Temperature\n-----------\n\nAs polyurethane cures (or hardens), it undergoes a chemical bonding reaction, linking th... | 2019/10/09 | [
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11,145 | My Alfawise EX8 (Anet A8 Clone) had an issue, so I flashed the [firmware](https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1ab6p2s8j61w6q/Marlin.rar?dl=0) provided on the GearBest page. After the flash the LCD is no longer doing anything and I can't really identify the LCD to confirm whether the correct one is selected in configuration.h
Currently the firmware had 'Mini VIKI' selected, but I'm not confident it works.
I cannot see anything on the screen, but I can still turn the dial and click things to make it do stuff.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YMky7m.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aAhbkm.jpg)
I really hope somebody can help! | [
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11,148 | I am new to 3D printing but have been in CNC Machining for a few years. I have a part I am trying to print that is a cylinder 1.000 in. in diameter and has a .200 in overhang starting at 1.300 in. In other words I am printing a 1.300 in. cylinder that is 1.500 in. tall that at 1.300 in. its diameter increases by .200 in.
When I first printed the part the overhang had sunk or fallen out. Not by much and is still usable but made a crappy finish. What would I need to do in order to have the overhang not drop as the base layer extended outward .200 in. at 1.300 in.?
I tried slowing the feed rate but that was worse. I also lowered the temp to 195 °C.
I am using a Monoprice Select Mini running at 200 °C and a 1.0 Speed (Not really sure what that feed rate is in terms of mm/s). Based on what I've seen so far I would increase the speed and keep the temp at 200 °C.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hif1O.jpg)
Any suggestions, I hope I have explained my problem well enough. | [
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"text": "The world of 3D Printers usually uses the metric system, especially in nozzle sizes. 0.2 inches are therefore better ... | 2019/10/11 | [
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11,153 | Is it possible with the accuracy of current 3D printers to print a sound trace?
On a vinyl record the grooves in the record are an encoded sound. Is something like this doable with 3D printers?
If Vinyl-like isn't possible, could a sound be printed at desktop scale? I mean printing the waves out that if you ran your finger along it it would reproduce the encoded sound? Examples would be [Rumble Strips](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rumble_strip), the [Musical Roads](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Musical_road) or [highway rumble strips](https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/44069/what-are-the-treads-on-the-side-of-the-highway-called). | [
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"text": "Sound Encoding basics\n---------------------\n\nSound is a compression wave, and any depiction of it has to be an en... | 2019/10/11 | [
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11,160 | I have a collection of STL files, each containing a separate moving part of an object I want to print. (Imagine a set of gears, or similar, that prints as a single object with multiple moving parts.)
My plan was to import them all into Cura, then hit print, then take my fully assembled object off the build plate. However, Cura ignores the coordinate system in the STL files and automatically separates the components from each other on the build plate. This is usually helpful, but it isn't what I want in this case.
So I'm looking for a quick and simple way to combine my multiple STL files into a single STL file. I know that the objects don't overlap, so I don't need to do a CSG union operation - it's enough just to concatenate the objects.
I tried OpenSCAD, which works, but it takes a really long time, because the meshes are fairly complex and it does the full Boolean operation. Is there another quick and simple way to perform this task?
I'd prefer a command line utility, but I'd also be happy if there's a quick and simple way to do it in some free graphical software. (However, I don't want to spend time manually positioning the objects - they're already in the right places in the STL files, so I just want to import them and go.)
**Edit** I've accepted Lrisb's answer (use Blender), but I'd still appreciate a command-line option if anyone knows one. | [
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"text": "What you try to do is called \"Print in Place\". However, it is not done by importing several STLs one after another ... | 2019/10/13 | [
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11,176 | When I print with PLA, I get a perfect first layer.
However, when I print with PETG, the first layer looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pceRa.jpg)
I've read all the info that suggests reducing the temp, speed, and increasing retraction... I've done all that which has improved things a lot, but I still get this... I can't seem to work out what's causing it.
How do I get a perfect first layer with PETG?
The latest settings that I've tried, and produced what you see in the picture are, using Cura 4.3 standard Dynamic Quality 0.16 mm profile with these tweaks:
* Temp: 220 °C
* Bed: 65 °C
* Retraction Distance: 10 mm (not that this would have any bearing on this flat first layer)
* Print Speed: 40 mm/s
One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA? | [
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"text": "> \n> One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?\n> \n> \n> \n\... | 2019/10/15 | [
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11,178 | This is about practicality. I'm hearing that people are using their BLTouch not to adjust the Z offset, but as the limit switch for the machine! Why is this so? What are the pros and cons of using a BLTouch (or any touch sensor for that matter) in lieu of a physical limit switch?
(NB: I'm looking for objective reasons, where no other solution will do as opposed to personal preference reasons where people just like to use it). | [
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"text": "There's cost. \n\nOr it might be fragility -- there is a little overshoot, i.e. the time between when the Z... | 2019/10/15 | [
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11,186 | I was trying to print parts for a small CD-ROM drive based plotter based on this thing <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3521286>
But as tolerances are very small and need to match the existing parts, I realized that my printed parts are actually a little bigger, I made a test with a part like this:
```
_ _
/ \ / \
\ .------------------------. ___
| [O]________________[O] | ^
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | |<--- 62mm ---->| | | |
| | | | 70mm
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
_| [O]________________[O] | _v_
/ '------------------------' \
\ _ / \ _ /
Side View:
[X] [X]
___[XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX]____
```
A squared and mouse-eared frame with two protruding 4mm cubes on each corner with inner distances of 62mm and outer of 70mm between each adjacent cubes.
I discovered that, after measuring many times and averaging distances, my model printed 0.227..% larger.
I've heard of shrinkage factor for ABS or Nylon, and people compensate scaling their models while slicing.
But what about PLA?
Im using:
* Anet A8
* Stock marlin firmware (not the Anet one)
* Flashforge natural PLA 1.75mm
* 0.4mm Nozzle
* 0.2mm layer height
* 0.4mm line width
* 210ºC extrusion temp
* 60ºC Bed temp
* 40mm/s print speed
* Fusion 360, Cura 2.7 or 4.3 and Octoprint.
The printed model is pretty flat, has no curvatures or artifacts either.
***Would this be an error of constants on my printer a known artifact from PLA?*** | [
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"text": "[You are not taking into account die swell](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6968/slicer-line-width-vs... | 2019/10/17 | [
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11,191 | I am printing using an Ender3 Pro with eSUN PLA+ 215/45 and I am getting this issue on two corners, the other two corners look fine.
Any idea on what can be causing this?
The bad corners
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kr4VD.jpg "Bad corners")
The good corners
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ras6V.jpg "Good corners") | [
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"text": "Looks like it treated those corners a bit differently in the slice routine. Normally something like this different... | 2019/10/18 | [
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11,197 | I'm using Cura to slice my prints. I've noticed that when printing the bottom layer (and also the top layer, if it's flat), it first prints three walls, then fills in the middle by moving back and forth in straight lines.
I've noticed that for my parts, the walls look much nicer than the zig-zag pattern in the middle, and it also seems that the zig-zag part detaches from the bed quite easily, whereas the walls don't.
My parts would look much better, and possibly also stick better to the bed, if I set the number of walls to 100 or so, so that the parts would be entirely filled in with walls. But then the parts would be completely solid, which isn't what I want. So what I want to achieve is that the bottom layer (and if possible also the top layer) are printed as if the part was composed entirely of walls, but the other layers are printed with three walls as normal. Is this possible in Cura? | [
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"text": "I found the answer myself just after posting - I'm posting it because it might be helpful to other Cura novices.\n\n... | 2019/10/19 | [
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11,199 | I have made some prints with the Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2 Extended+. The prints are in PLA. For slicing, I use Cura and I check the support checkbox (haven't gone to advanced settings to adjust support yet). I can clearly see that there is a little space between the support and the print. The supports often look like long pillars and such.
My question then is: "What is the best technique for removing the support?". Is it to use a knife, pliers or perhaps PLA-water? Is it possible to use PLA-water to remove support when printed with Ulitmaker 2+ or is that just the Ultimaker 3? What type of technique would give a good looking print?
Ultimaker 3 has [support filament that's water-soluble](https://ultimaker.com/materials/pva). Is there something similar for Ultimaker 2+? | [
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"text": "PLA and ABS are hard plastics. They are not water-soluble. If you print with these materials, just snap printed supp... | 2019/10/19 | [
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